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M · October 7th, 2010, 09:58 AM

It's well documented that the 'J' model '08-10 250s arrive stateside very lean to begin with. This is done to comply with EPA emissions testing. Even a stock 'J' model benefits from adjusting the idle mixture screws, along with re-jetting to an appropriate A/F (air to fuel) ratio.

The combination of issues your bike had let to its engine failure. An extremely lean condition will cause permanent damage over time.

As to your options, replacing the engine is probably the most prudent route to go. Replacing the engine will take you the better part of a day if it's your first time. Take your time, and don't get into a hurry.

Some considerations for you:

* check the valve clearances on the new engine before installing it; it's much easier!
* as you remove bolts, wires, etc., mark them all so you know what they are and where they go
* you will need to drain coolant before removing OEM engine
* you will need to fill coolant on new engine
* you will need new crush washers between the header and engine block
* pay attention to which throttle cable goes on top & which goes on bottom

A Kawasaki workshop manual will make your life a lot easier, providing you all the necessary torque values, along with diagrams and such.

October 7th, 2010, 09:58 AM	#14
M ninjette.org member Name: M Location: Oklahoma Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 x2, Ninja 650R Posts: 165	It's well documented that the 'J' model '08-10 250s arrive stateside very lean to begin with. This is done to comply with EPA emissions testing. Even a stock 'J' model benefits from adjusting the idle mixture screws, along with re-jetting to an appropriate A/F (air to fuel) ratio. The combination of issues your bike had let to its engine failure. An extremely lean condition will cause permanent damage over time. As to your options, replacing the engine is probably the most prudent route to go. Replacing the engine will take you the better part of a day if it's your first time. Take your time, and don't get into a hurry. Some considerations for you: * check the valve clearances on the new engine before installing it; it's much easier! * as you remove bolts, wires, etc., mark them all so you know what they are and where they go * you will need to drain coolant before removing OEM engine * you will need to fill coolant on new engine * you will need new crush washers between the header and engine block * pay attention to which throttle cable goes on top & which goes on bottom A Kawasaki workshop manual will make your life a lot easier, providing you all the necessary torque values, along with diagrams and such. __________________________________________________ The Rally - Oklahoma