Quote:
Originally Posted by greg737
Definitely temperature related then. Sounds like you've got a too-lean condition during cold starts.
When it got cold here in Spokane and I started working on tuning for cold startups I had a very similar experience (the engine "hanging" at very low RPMs on a cold start). As I slowly adjusted the priming pulse fuel, the cranking pulse fuel and the after-start enrichment I got the bike to a point where it was rich enough to get it "over the hump" and into the normal idle RPM range even when very cold.
If it comes back all "fixed" from the mechanics and still has a hard time on cold-startups, here's something you could do:
I know you don't have the capability to re-program, but you can slightly manipulate the ECU's behavior for a cold start. The way you would do this is to simply key-switch the bike slowly "on" and then "off" again a couple (maybe three) times before hitting the starter button. What the bike does every time you turn the key-switch to "on" is it brings the fuel pressure up to operating PSI and then it fires a "priming pulse" through both injectors. This pulse is meant to make sure there's fuel ready for a start (no air bubbles at the injector tips). Doing it a couple or three times will simply set up a richer air/fuel state in the cylinders for when you do hit the starter button.
Try it next time you have to do a cold start. Let us know how it goes.
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You're awesome
Love this little hack! I'll give it a try.
I always wondered what those mechanical noises were that I could hear after I turned the key to on but before I started the engine. I guess it's the sounds made by the fuel pressure adjustment and priming pulse that you referred too.
Interesting side thought, if I leave the bike in gear and turn the key to on, the bike doesn't make the full set of noises that it does when I flick the key to the on position while the bike is in neutral. I always park my bike in gear but make sure I I flick it to neutral before switching the key to the 'on' position... I figure that when I leave the bike in gear and it misses some noises it's missing an important step! Maybe it doesn't do the priming pulse. Who knows?
When you said "I know you don't have the capability to re-program", did you mean me personally not having the ability or did you mean that there are currently no software and hardware tools available to re-program the original Kawasaki EFI chip? Or maybe that the chip isn't even reprogrammable?