ninjette.org - View Single Post - Rojoracing53 front suspension setup for racing

Somchai · May 9th, 2015, 09:26 PM

I place my new experience under this thread since I think it's worth to bring it back to attention.

One of these days I met a guy from Ireland who'd for 20 years worked as a race mechanic on Kwaki bikes and his special knowledge is the setup of suspensions.
So I took the chance not only to ask him some questions but better get him correct my setup, what 2 experienced riders told me is good, but from my feeling I thought that it could be better (not so harsh).
The first thing he told (or to say teached) me is that one always must ride at least minimum 30 km (20 miles) before the suspension would work as it should and the reason for that is - the oil must reach its working temperature while before it always will feel to stiff (cold oil).
He'd ride my bike and found out that:
- at my front forks the rebound was not good, what made my forks slowly in returning from compressed
- the forks have been to stiff (also my impression of them).
His recommendation was to use 10W oil instead of 15W, what we changed,
also to raise the air gap which was to low (reason see below),
and as third point to readjust the blow-off force of the FEGV higher (from 1.5 turns to 3 turns).
The preload of the rear shock was to high also and this we'd adjust lower (from 9mm to 6mm).

Since here we don't get Putoline fork oil, which is what he said 'the best one can buy' we'd put Motul 10W oil into the forks.
By the way, I'd never think that after only 2 years and around 6500 km (app. 4000 miles) the fork oil would look like it did - pure mud.
After all the work was done and since I'd ride the bike now I can say - WOW, it's still stiff enough but feels complete different (way more smooth), not to only say better. My Ninja is going smooth over the waves on the roads here and cornering really is fun.
The problem here in the LOS is the different coating of the roads, since concrete is changing with tar and back again. Also from the big heat the roads are sometimes like waves with many big potholes in it also.
And one really important information for the usage of Gold Valves is the question, why does RT recommend 130 to 140 mm oil level?
After the FEGV's are in the fork the oil level raises by 29 mm (measured from my Irish specialist, while RT maybe calculates 30 mm), what I didn't think about before and maybe some of you didn't or don't also. And so at the end the level is back on what the service manual recommends.
If something isn't that easy to understand, please excuse, but english is not my native language.

May 9th, 2015, 09:26 PM	#38
Somchai Freedom for Germany Location: This World Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R-FI Posts: A lot.	I place my new experience under this thread since I think it's worth to bring it back to attention. One of these days I met a guy from Ireland who'd for 20 years worked as a race mechanic on Kwaki bikes and his special knowledge is the setup of suspensions. So I took the chance not only to ask him some questions but better get him correct my setup, what 2 experienced riders told me is good, but from my feeling I thought that it could be better (not so harsh). The first thing he told (or to say teached) me is that one always must ride at least minimum 30 km (20 miles) before the suspension would work as it should and the reason for that is - the oil must reach its working temperature while before it always will feel to stiff (cold oil). He'd ride my bike and found out that: - at my front forks the rebound was not good, what made my forks slowly in returning from compressed - the forks have been to stiff (also my impression of them). His recommendation was to use 10W oil instead of 15W, what we changed, also to raise the air gap which was to low (reason see below), and as third point to readjust the blow-off force of the FEGV higher (from 1.5 turns to 3 turns). The preload of the rear shock was to high also and this we'd adjust lower (from 9mm to 6mm). Since here we don't get Putoline fork oil, which is what he said 'the best one can buy' we'd put Motul 10W oil into the forks. By the way, I'd never think that after only 2 years and around 6500 km (app. 4000 miles) the fork oil would look like it did - pure mud. After all the work was done and since I'd ride the bike now I can say - WOW, it's still stiff enough but feels complete different (way more smooth), not to only say better. My Ninja is going smooth over the waves on the roads here and cornering really is fun. The problem here in the LOS is the different coating of the roads, since concrete is changing with tar and back again. Also from the big heat the roads are sometimes like waves with many big potholes in it also. And one really important information for the usage of Gold Valves is the question, why does RT recommend 130 to 140 mm oil level? After the FEGV's are in the fork the oil level raises by 29 mm (measured from my Irish specialist, while RT maybe calculates 30 mm), what I didn't think about before and maybe some of you didn't or don't also. And so at the end the level is back on what the service manual recommends. If something isn't that easy to understand, please excuse, but english is not my native language.