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Flying · November 24th, 2016, 08:18 PM

Happy Holidays Folks. Today we knocked out the wheel bearings.

PSA: Use a torch or a heat gun for this job. How much easier it is to tap out the bearings after heating cannot be overstated.

Now, the wheel bearings posed a particular challenge. The usual method of taking them out is to move the aluminum spacer over to the side within the wheel hub and tap out the bearing on the other side. The spacers in the Ninjette's wheels have very little space to move within their holes, requiring very arduous work or special tools.

I've read that RacerX managed to do the job with a well-used punch that had mushroomed out a bit, which was enough to grip onto whatever little bit of bearing was exposed by moving the spacer. So that might be an option for some.

Now, these may look like sleeved concrete anchor bolts that you can get at any hardware store, but these are actually special tools used for taking out interference-fit bearings in blind holes. Oooh, fancy.

Notice in the second picture, I have some metal bits sticking out. Those are cuts from a old windshield wiper. It turns out that a 1/2" anchor sleeve is not quite large enough for the front wheel bearings and requires shims. A 5/8" anchor sleeve will be able to handle the rear wheel bearings by itself, although shimming that might not hurt either.

The bearing for the sprocket carrier can be knocked out normally. I used a 22mm Harbor Freight impact socket.

After the bearings were out, I dumped all related spacers, fasteners, and various metal bits in acid in order to clean off the corrosion that has built up over the years.

Next step is to clean the wheels thoroughly and start installing the new shiny bits.

November 24th, 2016, 08:18 PM	#17
Flying ninjette.org sage Name: - Location: somewhere cold Join Date: Jun 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 596 Blog Entries: 1	Happy Holidays Folks. Today we knocked out the wheel bearings. PSA: Use a torch or a heat gun for this job. How much easier it is to tap out the bearings after heating cannot be overstated. Now, the wheel bearings posed a particular challenge. The usual method of taking them out is to move the aluminum spacer over to the side within the wheel hub and tap out the bearing on the other side. The spacers in the Ninjette's wheels have very little space to move within their holes, requiring very arduous work or special tools. I've read that RacerX managed to do the job with a well-used punch that had mushroomed out a bit, which was enough to grip onto whatever little bit of bearing was exposed by moving the spacer. So that might be an option for some. Now, these may look like sleeved concrete anchor bolts that you can get at any hardware store, but these are actually special tools used for taking out interference-fit bearings in blind holes. Oooh, fancy. Notice in the second picture, I have some metal bits sticking out. Those are cuts from a old windshield wiper. It turns out that a 1/2" anchor sleeve is not quite large enough for the front wheel bearings and requires shims. A 5/8" anchor sleeve will be able to handle the rear wheel bearings by itself, although shimming that might not hurt either. The bearing for the sprocket carrier can be knocked out normally. I used a 22mm Harbor Freight impact socket. After the bearings were out, I dumped all related spacers, fasteners, and various metal bits in acid in order to clean off the corrosion that has built up over the years. Next step is to clean the wheels thoroughly and start installing the new shiny bits.