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August 30th, 2014, 03:19 PM
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#1 |
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james250ninjette.newbie
Name: james
Location: cherry hill, nj
Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): 1986 ninja 250 Posts: 276
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adjusting idle mixture screws
ok I want o make this is right
which way is more gas counter clock wise or clockwise left or right turn bike running a little lean the idle mix screws are set at stock setting I cleaned the carbs reall well and cleaned the air filter properly bike rides great but a little lean |
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August 30th, 2014, 04:39 PM
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#2 |
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Participant
Name: Dave
Location: South of Seattle
Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '94 K75 std Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Aug '15
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CCW.
So how does one determine that it's lean at idle? Too much carbon monoxide emission when idling? |
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August 30th, 2014, 05:02 PM
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#3 |
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ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Paul
Location: UK
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250, Yamaha RS200 (classic) Posts: A lot.
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Set it to the book, and it should be fine. That said book is likely to be fractionally lean because of emissions so add 1/4 turn to be safe
It's not a particularly picky setting. ps general riding you are on the needle jet more than the idle circuit, If you are saying lean because of plug color raise the needle a tad. Take a look at this diagram and notice that the idle screw only has any effect at the very bottom of throttle movement http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/atta...b_circuits.jpg |
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August 30th, 2014, 05:07 PM
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#4 |
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Participant
Name: Dave
Location: South of Seattle
Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '94 K75 std Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Aug '15
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Carburator is a French word meaning "don't mess with it".
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August 30th, 2014, 05:41 PM
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#5 | |
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ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Paul
Location: UK
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250, Yamaha RS200 (classic) Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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August 30th, 2014, 05:46 PM
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#6 | |
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Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
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Quote:
Not all cycle carbs operate the same way though, so you need to know if you are dealing with an fuel bleed or an air bleed. I have no idea what the "stock" setting is - and it doesn't matter - start at 2 1/2 turns out and go 1/2 turn out after riding a while to see if it makes it better or worse - then readjust until it feels the best. A number of factors affect the adjustments - altitude, temperature, type of fuel, etc. Make sure the engine is at operating temp before you do any adjustments. Also make sure you are using the fuel that you will be using most of the time. For example - if you are running E10 (10% ethanol) and go to running non-ethanol you will run richer. Use gas without ethanol any time you can - especially in older engines. The carbs must be synced in order to get it all right. |
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August 30th, 2014, 05:47 PM
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#7 | |
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Participant
Name: Dave
Location: South of Seattle
Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '94 K75 std Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Aug '15
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Quote:
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August 30th, 2014, 06:14 PM
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#8 | |
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Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
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Quote:
My son and I recently worked on a leaf blower that never ran right, even when new. It wouldn't idle and when you gave it full throttle it would bog. It only ran OK at mid-throttle and was hard to start. We took the carb apart and checked it over - looked fine. We took the carb on-and-off and disassembled it about 5 or 6 times before it would start again but we never found an obvious problem. The low and high speed mixture adjustment screws were blocked and had no notches (slots) in them at all. We cut a small cross-slot in each one and made some adjustments, eventually getting it to idle smoothly and take full-throttle without bogging. My point is - don't judge what is "right" by what is "stock". Take some time, do some tuning and testing, and it will all eventually make sense. Know the fuel you are tuning it with. If there's any question, dump the fuel and add new before continuing. You will never get it to run right if the fuel is bad. If you don't like working on carbs, keep track of your fuel. Drain the floatbowls if it's going to sit. Run Techron Concentrate fuel system cleaner once a year. Use stabilizer. Keep the tank full. Run ethanol-free gas. I never take carbs apart on my equipment (except for tuning) - it's always someone else's. |
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August 31st, 2014, 05:34 PM
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#9 |
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ninjette.org member
Name: John
Location: Crossville, Tn.
Join Date: Oct 2010 Motorcycle(s): '02 Ninja 250, '98 Triumph Sprint 900, '69 H-D Sportster XLCH 900 Posts: 80
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2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.
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September 1st, 2014, 10:29 AM
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#10 |
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ninjette.org sage
Name: bob
Location: Earf
Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Ninja 250, 2006 SV650N Posts: 642
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Ninja 250 carbs are pretty easy to work on especially if you have pods and can get them off the bike in 5 mins.
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