Sportisi USA Rearsets - Installed and reviewed

NorCal_250R · September 13th, 2009, 12:39 PM

So we have another choice besides the Woodcraft rearsets for the '08-'09 Ninja 250R...
The Sportisi rearsets seem to have everything that the trackday user needs...
The first pic shows the difference in relation to the stock rearset and the new Sportisi ones...the third pic and fourth show the stock then Sportisi installed...
First:
the install...was interesting to say the least...no instuctions are included, not even a diagram showing what goes where, I went by the box pic, which might not even be the right ones...
the right side was tricky, as the brake system comes off the stock and is bolted to the new rearset...if you want the rear brake light to work you need to purchase a banjo bolt pressure switch as the stock spring system doesn't work, even though the Sportisi unit appears to include bolts to attach the system...once again, no instructions make it hard to guess on that...
The left side was trickier, as you have to play with the shifter rod and the Sportisi rearsets move the pegs SO MUCH farther back that the new shift rod is crazy long, but seems to move very nicely...
After some adjustments and tweaking I am happy with the linkage...

The Sportisi rearsets seem to be of very high quality CNC work, and of course are adjustable, as the woodcraft ones are NOT.
And for $260 shipped, they are about $60-80 cheaper, as they come with the shifter and brake levers...

They are offered in 3 colors I think, and hopefully will have some instructions by the time this is written, to help those less inclined to guess...

For the street, I would say these are VERY aggressive, but you can shift the pegs quite a way forward or back...so there is plenty of adjustment.

ztrack157 · September 13th, 2009, 01:27 PM

Yes instructions are being written. I'm amazed the stock light switch didn't work though. I will inquire with a what the heck to bram and the makers.

NorCal_250R · September 13th, 2009, 01:31 PM

I couldn't see where the bracket that holds the spring switch for the brake light would go...but it might be a miss by me...as soon as those instructions are done, email to me...I really don't care about the switch, but I would hook it up anyways...

The bearings on the shifter and the brake lever are really nice, the action is REALLY good.
The pegs are machines really good too, grips feels good.

I will have a race usage update after next weekend for everybody too!

ztrack157 · September 13th, 2009, 01:34 PM

will do. I took the pegs out when I got them in and looked at them and they are very grippy.

edwinmcq · September 13th, 2009, 02:23 PM

Those look very nice. The pegs look great. The shift linkage looks scary.

ztrack157 · September 13th, 2009, 06:49 PM

spring needs to be shortened for brake switch

Verus Cidere · September 14th, 2009, 12:21 PM

Just because I'm curious, what colors are available?

ztrack157 · September 14th, 2009, 12:34 PM

Right now just the one seen and the bronze titanium.. black should be coming but who knows when. I ordered 10 sets and will have these in stock in a week.

HKr1 · September 14th, 2009, 01:16 PM

Nice!

centexninja · September 20th, 2009, 12:21 PM

I cant wait till mine come in, I think Matt is still waiting to receive them so he can send to me.

ztrack157 · September 20th, 2009, 12:23 PM

Actually I mailed yours Daniel. Keep your eye out for a summit racing box.

NorCal_250R · September 22nd, 2009, 12:18 AM

Okay so to recap...installation was a pain, but only because of lack of instructions, those will be coming so I have been told for you holding out. Good, because I had installed the shifter rod on the wrong side of the shifter lever, once I moved it over it still had clearance issues, those were solved with a few washers to space them out.

Now on to the race weekend with the rearsets...

THEY WERE AMAZING. Plain and simple. Beautiful craftmanship. Just remember to use blue loctite everywhere...on the peg threads, on the rearset to frame screws...everywhere...

Knocked 7 seconds off my times...the rearsets helped me feel more comfortable...no more toe dragging...

THe action on the shifter and rear brake is so smooth. The rearsets feel like they cost a million dollars...beautiful action, the pegs grips like crazy.

Got tons of complements too, mostly from jealous woodcraft owners that saw that they were adjustable...

overall experience (lack of instructions excluded since that was minor and will be fixed)
99/100!!!!

randomwalk101 · September 22nd, 2009, 12:41 PM

is this rearset hard anodized?

ztrack157 · September 22nd, 2009, 01:37 PM

Yup

randomwalk101 · September 22nd, 2009, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ztrack157

Yup

But by looking at the picture, doesn't look like it is.

Essentially, anodizing involves immersing aluminum in a bath of sulfuric acid, called an electrolyte, and running a low-voltage electric current through the acid solution. The result of normal anodizing is a thin coating of aluminum oxide (rust) on the surface of the original aluminum sheet. If the acid solution is cooled to the freezing point of water and the amount of electric current increased substantially, however, the process is called hard anodizing.

Hard anodizing produces a much thicker coating of aluminum oxide, penetrating holes and fissures in the surface to create a more uniform appearance than regular anodized aluminum. Aluminum sheets processed by hard anodizing may have a dark brown or black surface, but other colors can be created.

ztrack157 · September 22nd, 2009, 01:55 PM

^ok your right. it is not hard andoized. anodized yes

ztrack157 · September 22nd, 2009, 02:20 PM

Hard anodizing would actually effect the grip on the pegs and take away from the look that makes these x race sets, x race sets

randomwalk101 · September 23rd, 2009, 03:52 AM

When not at the track, stock peg setting is very comfortable for me. Does this rear set allows me to set it at stock position and raise it up & back for track days?
Posted via Mobile Device

ztrack157 · September 23rd, 2009, 09:05 AM

there is a ton of adjustability in these. I would ask shift because I haven't had stock pegs on my bike for more than a year so I cant remember

centexninja · September 24th, 2009, 12:00 PM

maybe im missing something, but is not anywhere to mount the big return spring, not the switch spring but the other one.

ztrack157 · September 24th, 2009, 12:45 PM

the bigger bolt coming out in the back of the brake pedal is notched for it if I remember right. and thereis a hole drilled in it as well

ztrack157 · September 24th, 2009, 12:47 PM

but also not a necessary addition but I know some people like having the return spring

centexninja · September 24th, 2009, 01:27 PM

hmm...all I see is two dowls coming out of the brake pedal, one is for the master cylinder to slide on with a hole for the cotter pin and the other is for the brake light switch.

Unless one of those dowls is doing two diffrent functions. Its not too big of a deal because as of right now the master cylinder has enough pressure to push the lever back down, but it would be nice.

ztrack157 · September 24th, 2009, 04:20 PM

I think the brake return spring goes on the biggest dowl for the master cylinder but I'm not certain let me ask my supplier. I don't have a stock bike and its been a long time so I don't have a spring for reference.

randomwalk101 · September 26th, 2009, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ztrack157

there is a ton of adjustability in these. I would ask shift because I haven't had stock pegs on my bike for more than a year so I cant remember

Ask shift?

ztrack157 · September 26th, 2009, 02:12 PM

oops thats another guy who bought some. Ask jordan.

gamma500 · September 26th, 2009, 04:58 PM

Got my Titanium rearsets today..took about 2 hours or 1.5 cigars to install. If you check out the spacers it's intuitive where they go..footpeg--lever--spacer---body attached piece. The multiple adjustable holes are not "roll thread" tapped like the bolts that go in them. Use a dosing of PB Blaster or WD-40 and make sure you don't cross thread.

I looked carefully and see no attachment points for the big brake return spring. You need to visit the hardware store to get a shorter brake light spring...easy to find. I zip tied my reservoir feed hose to the exhaust hanger to keep it from possibly rubbing on a fully compressed rear tire. Could cut hose or get new piece but than you risk wrong length if you decide to move the lever back forwards. Black zip tie is inconspicous anyway. My dowel for the brakelight spring was loose so check for tightness. I also had to shorten the master cylinder threaded end so my foot wasn't resting on the brake lever all the time..dropped the lever down about 10mm by shortening the actuator rod about 2-4 mm. Also put a thick enough bushing on the inner side of the master cylinder clevis where the cotter pin goes 'cause I didn't like the slop it had, sliding sideways a bit. I had an old bushing but 2-3 washers would work too. Of course the stock exhaust shield has to go for clearance reasons.

Shift side easier....I put 2 washers on the inside of the aft shifter rod helm joint so it lined up parallel...was slightly cocked without. Make sure you unscrew enough of the threaded ends in the shift rod so it has plenty of "grab" on the gear shifter...it comes with only 3-4 threads showing. Set the ends up off the bike and tighten down the front locknut, than put on and adjust length with the helm joint side....

Overall, nice product. Matt, can you keep an extra supply of those allen bolts (2) that go into the adjustment holes available for the inevitable ones that get stripped..they have a special head and regular socket head ones from Home Depot would not have the same gripping surface area ??

randomwalk101 · September 26th, 2009, 05:34 PM

hey craig, will you give me some feedback regarding post #18 in this thread. Thanks

gamma500 · September 26th, 2009, 06:02 PM

Sure thing...the foot pegs on the new rearsets when adjusted all the way forward will still be 3.5" farther back than the stock position. Set at the lowest position, the new peg will be about 1" higher than stock. When you adjust the shifter side, you will have to shorten/lengthen the shifter rod each time also.

I'm a tad over 6' and find the stock pedals having me bending my legs too much for hour + rides...I got to do the old "stand on the pegs and stretch" to get the blood flowing.

The rearsets don't help much here but I can lean over the tank more comfortably and the angle at my knees is less tight..more "obtuse".

Hope this helps....

ztrack157 · September 26th, 2009, 06:08 PM

^ I'm about the same size as you craig and same issue. much more comfortable but still bent. But most guys in the sportbike realm seem to be on the shorter side

gamma500 · September 26th, 2009, 06:36 PM

Yea, unfair HP-to-Weight ratio if you ask me. They ought to make them bolt on lead weights to even up the playing field. Used to race against a fairly well known racer in the early 90's in WERA Endurance..this guy must have weighed 135 lbs and he'd sit his troll butt up top a Gixxer 1100 and let the bike's natural gyroscopic tendencies to stay upright take him around and around all day.

Extra points to the first dude who names this guy....

ztrack157 · September 26th, 2009, 06:45 PM

Ealry 90's I was still sucking my thumb. Talking about the guy um Tab racing. Crap what was his name. Thats the only 1100 I remember from the 90's

gamma500 · September 26th, 2009, 07:21 PM

Aaaah Grasshopper...this guy was an 18 time National Sprint and Endurance Champion and I can't remember him ever crashing including when I tried to run his a** over at Nelsons Ledge in 1991.....I believe he ended up being WERA's Director for a while.

Last of hints.....

gamma500 · September 26th, 2009, 07:34 PM

..and the answer..Mr. Kurt "the Squirt" Hall.

ztrack157 · September 26th, 2009, 08:02 PM

^ yeah not the guy I was thinking of.

rockNroll · October 5th, 2009, 12:36 PM

Jordan, how much higher than stock to these raise, and what size boot do you wear?

I have the woodcraft rear sets and they aren't high enough. With my toes on the pegs I'm still gettin my toe's into the mix and I really don't wanna buy a bunch of sidi toe sliders. I see in your pictures that you don't have the chain guard installed and that's why I asked about boot size. I wear a 10.5 and with the woodcraft rear sets my left heel hits the chain guard right on and above the front chain guard bolt. If I removed the guard, my heel would rub the chain. The heel guard on the left really needs to be shaped more like the right side even without a master cylinder to mount. As it is, it's really an ankle guard.

I took the front chain guard bolt out and put a christmas tree fastener in there because the bolt was wearing my boot.

Nemesis · October 5th, 2009, 12:43 PM

Wait, aren't these the same ones made in Thailand or Malaysia?

ztrack157 · October 5th, 2009, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockNroll

Jordan, how much higher than stock to these raise, and what size boot do you wear?

I have the woodcraft rear sets and they aren't high enough. With my toes on the pegs I'm still gettin my toe's into the mix and I really don't wanna buy a bunch of sidi toe sliders. I see in your pictures that you don't have the chain guard installed and that's why I asked about boot size. I wear a 10.5 and with the woodcraft rear sets my left heel hits the chain guard right on and above the front chain guard bolt. If I removed the guard, my heel would rub the chain. The heel guard on the left really needs to be shaped more like the right side even without a master cylinder to mount. As it is, it's really an ankle guard.

I took the front chain guard bolt out and put a christmas tree fastener in there because the bolt was wearing my boot.

Jordan is at the track today. I was there with him so thats how I know that. He has left the x race sets in there stock setting (the way they ship) and I don't think he has any toes coming into the mix.

As for whoever posted right above me. NO! These are not the cheapo's from thailand. These are made by an Australian company. I do however have the Cheap thailand ones on my bike which will be up for sale soon so I can throw x race ones on.

Nemesis · October 5th, 2009, 03:43 PM

Okay cuz the cut and design is VERY similar to the ones made in Thailand/Malaysia.

NorCal_250R · October 5th, 2009, 10:08 PM

I have size 9.5 shoes...I don't have an exact measurement of rise of the pegs, but with the adjustablity of the X- race units, you will not be dragging toes.
I have the chain guard off only because I have a 150 tire and it would rub...
You really need to make sure the rearsets have the heel guard attached, and if you are rubbing the chain, you really need to work on your foot placement...
but you shouldn't have that problem with the X- Race units.
They are top class...

Used them all day today...they worked flawlessly again, shifter works fantastic, and they feel very sturdy...

September 13th, 2009, 01:27 PM	#2
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	Yes instructions are being written. I'm amazed the stock light switch didn't work though. I will inquire with a what the heck to bram and the makers. __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 13th, 2009, 01:34 PM	#4
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	will do. I took the pegs out when I got them in and looked at them and they are very grippy. __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 13th, 2009, 02:23 PM	#5
edwinmcq ninjette.org member Name: Ed Location: Washington DC Join Date: Jul 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 157	Those look very nice. The pegs look great. The shift linkage looks scary. __________________________________________________ www.edmcqueen.com

September 13th, 2009, 06:49 PM	#6
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	spring needs to be shortened for brake switch __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 14th, 2009, 12:21 PM	#7
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	Just because I'm curious, what colors are available? __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail.

September 13th, 2009, 01:31 PM	#3
NorCal_250R ninjette.org member Name: Jordan Location: Corte Madera Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 06 Ninja 650R, 08 Ninja 250R, 00 Aprilia SR50 (dead) Posts: 94	I couldn't see where the bracket that holds the spring switch for the brake light would go...but it might be a miss by me...as soon as those instructions are done, email to me...I really don't care about the switch, but I would hook it up anyways... The bearings on the shifter and the brake lever are really nice, the action is REALLY good. The pegs are machines really good too, grips feels good. I will have a race usage update after next weekend for everybody too!

September 14th, 2009, 12:34 PM	#8
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	Right now just the one seen and the bronze titanium.. black should be coming but who knows when. I ordered 10 sets and will have these in stock in a week. __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 14th, 2009, 01:16 PM	#9
HKr1 IC2(SW) Name: Kerry Location: Pensacola Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: A lot.	Nice!

September 20th, 2009, 12:21 PM	#10
centexninja ninjette.org member Name: Daniel Location: San Marcos, Texas Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 10	I cant wait till mine come in, I think Matt is still waiting to receive them so he can send to me.

September 20th, 2009, 12:23 PM	#11
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	Actually I mailed yours Daniel. Keep your eye out for a summit racing box. __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 22nd, 2009, 12:18 AM	#12
NorCal_250R ninjette.org member Name: Jordan Location: Corte Madera Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 06 Ninja 650R, 08 Ninja 250R, 00 Aprilia SR50 (dead) Posts: 94	Okay so to recap...installation was a pain, but only because of lack of instructions, those will be coming so I have been told for you holding out. Good, because I had installed the shifter rod on the wrong side of the shifter lever, once I moved it over it still had clearance issues, those were solved with a few washers to space them out. Now on to the race weekend with the rearsets... THEY WERE AMAZING. Plain and simple. Beautiful craftmanship. Just remember to use blue loctite everywhere...on the peg threads, on the rearset to frame screws...everywhere... Knocked 7 seconds off my times...the rearsets helped me feel more comfortable...no more toe dragging... THe action on the shifter and rear brake is so smooth. The rearsets feel like they cost a million dollars...beautiful action, the pegs grips like crazy. Got tons of complements too, mostly from jealous woodcraft owners that saw that they were adjustable... overall experience (lack of instructions excluded since that was minor and will be fixed) 99/100!!!!

September 22nd, 2009, 12:41 PM	#13
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	is this rearset hard anodized?

September 22nd, 2009, 01:37 PM	#14
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	Yup __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 22nd, 2009, 01:55 PM	#16
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	^ok your right. it is not hard andoized. anodized yes __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 22nd, 2009, 02:20 PM	#17
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	Hard anodizing would actually effect the grip on the pegs and take away from the look that makes these x race sets, x race sets __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 23rd, 2009, 03:52 AM	#18
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	When not at the track, stock peg setting is very comfortable for me. Does this rear set allows me to set it at stock position and raise it up & back for track days? Posted via Mobile Device

September 23rd, 2009, 09:05 AM	#19
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	there is a ton of adjustability in these. I would ask shift because I haven't had stock pegs on my bike for more than a year so I cant remember __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 24th, 2009, 12:00 PM	#20
centexninja ninjette.org member Name: Daniel Location: San Marcos, Texas Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 10	maybe im missing something, but is not anywhere to mount the big return spring, not the switch spring but the other one.

September 24th, 2009, 12:45 PM	#21
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	the bigger bolt coming out in the back of the brake pedal is notched for it if I remember right. and thereis a hole drilled in it as well __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 24th, 2009, 12:47 PM	#22
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	but also not a necessary addition but I know some people like having the return spring __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 24th, 2009, 01:27 PM	#23
centexninja ninjette.org member Name: Daniel Location: San Marcos, Texas Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 10	hmm...all I see is two dowls coming out of the brake pedal, one is for the master cylinder to slide on with a hole for the cotter pin and the other is for the brake light switch. Unless one of those dowls is doing two diffrent functions. Its not too big of a deal because as of right now the master cylinder has enough pressure to push the lever back down, but it would be nice.

September 24th, 2009, 04:20 PM	#24
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	I think the brake return spring goes on the biggest dowl for the master cylinder but I'm not certain let me ask my supplier. I don't have a stock bike and its been a long time so I don't have a spring for reference. __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 26th, 2009, 02:12 PM	#26
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	oops thats another guy who bought some. Ask jordan. __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 26th, 2009, 04:58 PM	#27
gamma500 ninjette.org member Name: Craig Location: Asheville, NC Join Date: Aug 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 98	Got my Titanium rearsets today..took about 2 hours or 1.5 cigars to install. If you check out the spacers it's intuitive where they go..footpeg--lever--spacer---body attached piece. The multiple adjustable holes are not "roll thread" tapped like the bolts that go in them. Use a dosing of PB Blaster or WD-40 and make sure you don't cross thread. I looked carefully and see no attachment points for the big brake return spring. You need to visit the hardware store to get a shorter brake light spring...easy to find. I zip tied my reservoir feed hose to the exhaust hanger to keep it from possibly rubbing on a fully compressed rear tire. Could cut hose or get new piece but than you risk wrong length if you decide to move the lever back forwards. Black zip tie is inconspicous anyway. My dowel for the brakelight spring was loose so check for tightness. I also had to shorten the master cylinder threaded end so my foot wasn't resting on the brake lever all the time..dropped the lever down about 10mm by shortening the actuator rod about 2-4 mm. Also put a thick enough bushing on the inner side of the master cylinder clevis where the cotter pin goes 'cause I didn't like the slop it had, sliding sideways a bit. I had an old bushing but 2-3 washers would work too. Of course the stock exhaust shield has to go for clearance reasons. Shift side easier....I put 2 washers on the inside of the aft shifter rod helm joint so it lined up parallel...was slightly cocked without. Make sure you unscrew enough of the threaded ends in the shift rod so it has plenty of "grab" on the gear shifter...it comes with only 3-4 threads showing. Set the ends up off the bike and tighten down the front locknut, than put on and adjust length with the helm joint side.... Overall, nice product. Matt, can you keep an extra supply of those allen bolts (2) that go into the adjustment holes available for the inevitable ones that get stripped..they have a special head and regular socket head ones from Home Depot would not have the same gripping surface area ??

September 26th, 2009, 05:34 PM	#28
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	hey craig, will you give me some feedback regarding post #18 in this thread. Thanks

September 26th, 2009, 06:02 PM	#29
gamma500 ninjette.org member Name: Craig Location: Asheville, NC Join Date: Aug 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 98	Sure thing...the foot pegs on the new rearsets when adjusted all the way forward will still be 3.5" farther back than the stock position. Set at the lowest position, the new peg will be about 1" higher than stock. When you adjust the shifter side, you will have to shorten/lengthen the shifter rod each time also. I'm a tad over 6' and find the stock pedals having me bending my legs too much for hour + rides...I got to do the old "stand on the pegs and stretch" to get the blood flowing. The rearsets don't help much here but I can lean over the tank more comfortably and the angle at my knees is less tight..more "obtuse". Hope this helps....

September 26th, 2009, 06:08 PM	#30
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	^ I'm about the same size as you craig and same issue. much more comfortable but still bent. But most guys in the sportbike realm seem to be on the shorter side __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 26th, 2009, 06:36 PM	#31
gamma500 ninjette.org member Name: Craig Location: Asheville, NC Join Date: Aug 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 98	Yea, unfair HP-to-Weight ratio if you ask me. They ought to make them bolt on lead weights to even up the playing field. Used to race against a fairly well known racer in the early 90's in WERA Endurance..this guy must have weighed 135 lbs and he'd sit his troll butt up top a Gixxer 1100 and let the bike's natural gyroscopic tendencies to stay upright take him around and around all day. Extra points to the first dude who names this guy....

September 26th, 2009, 06:45 PM	#32
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	Ealry 90's I was still sucking my thumb. Talking about the guy um Tab racing. Crap what was his name. Thats the only 1100 I remember from the 90's __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

September 26th, 2009, 07:21 PM	#33
gamma500 ninjette.org member Name: Craig Location: Asheville, NC Join Date: Aug 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 98	Aaaah Grasshopper...this guy was an 18 time National Sprint and Endurance Champion and I can't remember him ever crashing including when I tried to run his a** over at Nelsons Ledge in 1991.....I believe he ended up being WERA's Director for a while. Last of hints.....

September 26th, 2009, 07:34 PM	#34
gamma500 ninjette.org member Name: Craig Location: Asheville, NC Join Date: Aug 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 98	..and the answer..Mr. Kurt "the Squirt" Hall.

September 26th, 2009, 08:02 PM	#35
ztrack157 The Sportisi Master Name: Matt Location: Chico Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	^ yeah not the guy I was thinking of. __________________________________________________ Sportisimoto USA is born.

October 5th, 2009, 12:36 PM	#36
rockNroll . Name: rock Location: greenville, south carolina Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): black Posts: A lot.	Jordan, how much higher than stock to these raise, and what size boot do you wear? I have the woodcraft rear sets and they aren't high enough. With my toes on the pegs I'm still gettin my toe's into the mix and I really don't wanna buy a bunch of sidi toe sliders. I see in your pictures that you don't have the chain guard installed and that's why I asked about boot size. I wear a 10.5 and with the woodcraft rear sets my left heel hits the chain guard right on and above the front chain guard bolt. If I removed the guard, my heel would rub the chain. The heel guard on the left really needs to be shaped more like the right side even without a master cylinder to mount. As it is, it's really an ankle guard. I took the front chain guard bolt out and put a christmas tree fastener in there because the bolt was wearing my boot.

October 5th, 2009, 12:43 PM	#37
Nemesis CVMA #74 WSMC #750 Name: Nemesis Location: On the track Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): All of them Posts: A lot.	Wait, aren't these the same ones made in Thailand or Malaysia?

October 5th, 2009, 03:43 PM	#39
Nemesis CVMA #74 WSMC #750 Name: Nemesis Location: On the track Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): All of them Posts: A lot.	Okay cuz the cut and design is VERY similar to the ones made in Thailand/Malaysia.