DIY: How to install an aftermarket upper triple clamp

[CThunder-blue]

It's time for another DIY

I got an anodized blue X-Race upper triple and it looks pretty good. You'll need a 22MM socket for the large center bolt. I forget the size of the allen keys, but you should have them in the tool kit.

1. Put the rear of the bike on a stand. Having the bike upright helps. Also, make sure to unlock the steering wheel. You'll need to rotate the front wheel just to the 1 o'clock position to clear the tab below. You can see the green arrow in one of the pics depicting the tab.





2. Remove the handle bars. They're bolted in with 2 allen bolts. Carefully let them hang on the sides. You might want to put a rag or bubble wrap under them so they don't scratch the fairing.



3. Use the 22mm socket and remove the center triple clamp bolt. It's not on there very tight. You can also use an adjustable wrench if you don't have have a socket on hand. Just throw a paper towel over the bolt so you don't scratch it up.

4. Remove the pinch bolts that are clamping on the forks.

5. Lift the triple clamp straight up and out. If you find there's some resistance, try nudging the front wheel slightly in either direction. The clamp comes off. Just work at it slowly and wiggle it up and down too.



6. This step is not for the faint of heart. You'll need to drill the top of the security bolts off the bottom that connects the ignition switch to the clamp. I placed a rag in various locations and flipped the assembly over and drilled them out on the bike. I didn't feel like tracing the ignition wire back to unplug it. There are 2 bolts and they're completely rounded. I used a set of step bits from harbor freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...lls-91616.html. The smallest one first to get a hole going. Then the larger one to drill out the head. I used cutting fluid as well. Make sure you use some kind of lubricant like cutting fluid. Otherwise, the drilling process will take much longer and it'll just be frustrating. You can probably use some motor oil. Just give it a couple drops. No need to flood it. Remove a little bit of the head at a time. I used a magnet to collect the metal shavings and dust.







7. The hard part is over. Just bolt in the ignition to the new triple clamp and reinstall. Don't forget to use red locktite on the bolts that attach the ignition to the triple clamp.

[EthioKnight]

Looks sweet Tri! and great DIY!
You've reminded me to install my preload adjuster...they've been gathering dust for a while, thanks for that

[cuong-nutz]

Tri, how much of a weight difference was there between the two? Do you think it would be easier for the forks to twist in the triple due to the anodized clamping surface?

[CThunder-blue]

Hi Cuong,

I certainly wouldn't classify this as a weight saving mod. I should have weighed the pieces, but I would say the X-race is lighter by 8 ounces or so. It's noticeable, but not significant. I don't think the forks twisting will be a problem. The oem triple has a polished surface for the forks and the anodized part is a little rough since it's machined, but not polished. If anything, there will be less chance of them twisting.

Tri

[kingkang204]

Thank You For This!

I've been needing to tighten my steering nuts, but was uncertain on how to do so.

[CThunder-blue]

I hope my thread locker isn't completely dried. It looks like my steering lock is misaligned. I'll have to take a look at it tonight. Doh!

[alex.s]

:O its so pretty

[CThunder-blue]

So it turns out that the 1" spacers they give you to mount the ignition switch is 1/8" too long. I cut it down to 7/8" and the steering lock is now functional again. I did end up painting the spacers a flat black since they got roughed up when I had them clamped to cut them.

[Vergil]

I like how your levers match now too

[Alex]

/linked from main DIY thread