DIY Tire Mounting Stand by RojoRacing

[rojoracing53]

Here's a DIY on making a tire mounting stand from various items that are rather easy and cheap to acquire. You don't have to use a VP race fuel can like it did, any circular can with an opening over 330mm should be able to accommodate all manner full sized street bike and dirt bike wheels.

From Left to Right we have most of the parts you'll need
20-24oz bottle with 1.0-1.25" mouth,Tire lube applicator brush, 3/8" Rubber Air hose, 15gal VP Racing Fuel can, 2-3 cans of spay foam insulation, 1-2pcs of scrap steel bars, 3' of 1/2" or 9/16' threaded steel rod, three Female threaded wedge concrete anchores, 80 lbs of concrete, three 2",2",2" 90 angle brakets with two 1/2" holes, Three flanged nuts(same thread pitch as you threaded rod), four 2" long 3/8-16 fully threaded bolts, eight 3/8" washers, four 3/8-16 nuts.



four 2" long 3/8-16 fully threaded bolts, eight 3/8" washers, four 3/8-16 nuts.



three Female threaded wedge concrete anchores, three 2",2",2" 90 angle brakets with two 1/2" holes



3' of 1/2" or 9/16' threaded steel rod,Three flanged nuts(same thread pitch as you threaded rod)



80 lbs of concrete, 2-3 cans of spay foam insulation



20-24oz bottle with 1.0-1.25" mouth,Tire lube applicator brush, 3/8" Rubber Air hose,



If your using a fuel can then your going to want to remove any fuel & fuel fumes before doing any cutting or welding(unless you have @Jiggles near by to capture the explosion at 240fpm) first fill the can completely with water then drain it. Then pour it about 20oz of simple green and fill it again, leave it for at least 30mins to dissolve any remaining combustibles. Dump and rinse it out and now your ready to cut.

You need to remove the lid so grab your handy electric Sawsall and starting at the larger hole start cutting folowing the outer edge as a giude the best you can.



When you've removed the lid use a file or sand paper to file down the best you can the remaining sharp edges of the can.



Find the center of the can and drill a 1/2 hole in the bottom so you can thread your rod in.





Drill four 3/8" holes about 2-1/2 above the bottom of the can at it's 3,6,9, and 12 o clock positions. With a washer on each side of the can thread you 3/8" bolts through and tighten with the matching nuts.





Weld your two steel plate to the bottom of you rod at opposing angles, leave about 2" of threads free at the bottom. theis will keep your rod from moving in the concrete.



I forgot to take a pic of this and it will only work with the VP can or simular can that has a base that's at least a inch off the ground for clearance. So you want to take one of your three flanged nuts and thread it none flanged side first onto the 2" inches of thread below the plates you welded onto your rod. Then thread your rod through the bottom center hole of your can with the side that has the nut and plates. You should have around an inch of threaded rod sticking out the bottom of your can. Now take the second of your three nuts and with the flanged side first thread it onto the rod and lock it down against the nut inside of the can. Be sure the can is still sitting flat on the ground and isn't being lifted from the rod.

If your can doesn't have the bottom clearance for that last step don't worry you just have to be extra careful that your rod stays centered when you pour inn the concrete.

I hope the can your using is steel or else your going to have a hard time welding those brackets to your can. You need these brackets to mount your can to the floor or else its going to rotate and slide around on you while mounting tires. Weld at least 3 of these evenly around the can making sure they remain sitting flat to the ground.



I'll edit in a picture of this later but now you want to use a hammer drill and masonry bit to drill and mount your female anchors. Male studs are more common but of you plan on unbolting you stand and sliding it away for storage then you don't want 2" studs stick up out of the ground. This is why I used female anchors, there like nuts that sit counter sunk into the ground. Measure twice and drill once because there not much room for error on this step.

Next with you rod in place and can mounted you need to feel the bottom 5-6" of your can with concrete this will keep your rod in place. This was just below the first ridged line on the VP can. Don't use all 80lbs of concrete about 40lbs should, you don't want to fill the whole can because then it'll weight 250lbs and will be a pain to move around. If you never plan on moving it then go ahead and fill it to about 6 inches below the top.



After the concrete sets then then you want to fill the center portion of the can with spray foam. This will allow us to fill the center of the can without adding weight and after dying it will be solid enough to pour our second and finally layer of concrete on top. Do this step in layers because the foam doubles in size over a hour and you need it to stop about 10 inches from the top.





pics coming soon
With the foam finally dry and solid fill the can with concrete stopping about 5-6 inches from the top. This second layer of concrete is necessary to keep the rod from flexing side to side.

Take your 3/8" air hose and slice it length ways and slide it over the top edge of the can. This will protect your wheels as while as add the necessary traction to keep your wheel from spinning during tire mounting.



After the second layer of concrete dries you done with your Tire Mounting Stand and it should work like this.

Link to original page on YouTube.

I recommend buying a NoMar bar or Mojo Lever to mount you tires without scratching the paint. But with this stand you will also have a much easier time using normal tire levers & spoons. I'm using Ru-Glyed tire mounting lube and my own RojoRacing mounting Bar that a simple copy of the Mojo Lever.

[CC Cowboy]

Great video!

And the balancing?

[rojoracing53]

I welded together a wheel balancer out of some steel and some ball bearing wheels. It looks identical to the ones you see the tire vendors use at the races. I can post some detailed pics if you want but I think they sell them for semi cheap

If you guys beg enough maybe ill make a DIY for the wheel balancer as well.

[himynameisjoe]

Just because I love DIY's and making things I'd love to see one for the balancer

Awesome DIY though, pretty cool idea!

[jpbear]

Dang, you make it look so easy!

[himynameisjoe]

Also the foam pattern makes it look like you have a can of brains

[Broc]

Great setup! I love the lubricant holder!

A balancer is very easy to make but you can pick up a very nice one from Harbor Freight for $50.00. They always have coupons, I paid $30.00 for mine.
It works great! Never had a wheel come back.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by himynameisjoe

Also the foam pattern makes it look like you have a can of brains

Hahaha

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by jpbear

Dang, you make it look so easy!

What can I say its a gift

The mounting bar makes it Sooooo easy

[Motofool]

Very good DIY, Jason !!!

Suggestion: A piece of steel pipe (schedule 40) could protect the thread of the rod from the lever and would avoid having to spin the clamping nut all the way down.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Very good DIY, Jason !!!

Suggestion: A piece of steel pipe (schedule 40) could protect the thread of the rod from the lever and would avoid having to spin the clamping nut all the way down.

Yeah I already thought of that and added it to the system. I'm always adding to my projects so they're ever-changing.

Thanks for the input

[Alex]

Very nice! /linked from main DIY sticky

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by Alex

Very nice! /linked from main DIY sticky

Thanks Alex I try and keep them coming while my motivation lasts.

[Somchai]

Awesome Jason

And fantastic to see how you're tightening the nut with both hands since i always do it with one only

[CZroe]

So, the foam is to fill it up without adding weight but why are we filling it up then? Just to stabilize the threaded rod?

I think being able to fill it with water so that it would be heavy enough to not require anchoring and so it would be portable when drained would be nifty. I'd probably make chambers of jugs/bottles or something with a stabilization brace made of the old lid that fits across the top.

[DreamN]

Love it! If I had the space I would so make this happen in my garage. I wonder if I could figure out a more portable solution.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by CZroe

So, the foam is to fill it up without adding weight but why are we filling it up then? Just to stabilize the threaded rod?

I think being able to fill it with water so that it would be heavy enough to not require anchoring and so it would be portable when drained would be nifty. I'd probably make chambers of jugs/bottles or something with a stabilization brace made of the old lid that fits across the top.

I originally thought of just welding the rod in with braces but I think it would give the stand a flimsy feel and I want it so be solid. You absolutely need the rod braced in the upper area to reduce the leverage you are applying to it, sound like you under stand that though. I also thought of re-welding the lid back on but lower as a brace but the can is rather thin and a pain to weld so I liked the idea of the simply versatility of the concrete. You have to mount the stand to the floor or it IS going to move on you, I don't care how much weight you put into it. My first prototype was filled with metal slugs that look like nickles and I weighed close to 400 lbs, it still rotated and moved on me when trying to get the last part of the bead on. Some tires will go on easier then others but I made this to handle anything. If you plan on just using tire spoons then not mounting it and filling with water and dumping afterwards is fine, that's what I was doing before. The 4' mounting bars give you a huge amount of leverage.

[himynameisjoe]

Can i just say I love that you even thought of using the female ends embedded into the ground so you don't have 4 inch bolts sticking up when the mounting station isn't there? Most people probably wouldn't have though of that! I love it!

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Very good DIY, Jason !!!

Suggestion: A piece of steel pipe (schedule 40) could protect the thread of the rod from the lever and would avoid having to spin the clamping nut all the way down.

For those who may be confused this is what motofool is talking about. Now you only need to tread it on a 2 inches instead of 10 and your threads are protected.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by DreamN

Love it! If I had the space I would so make this happen in my garage. I wonder if I could figure out a more portable solution.

Not sure how much portable you need it but if you don't use concrete and instead weld in braces everywhere it would only weigh like 20lbs and the female studs will never be notice when not in use. You could also weld on a pair of dolly wheels so you can tip it and roll it around.

[lgk]

Originally Posted by himynameisjoe

Also the foam pattern makes it look like you have a can of brains

thats what i thought as well,


except i thought it looked delicious.... BBBRRRAINNNSSSSSsss....

[himynameisjoe]

Originally Posted by lgk

thats what i thought as well,


except i thought it looked delicious.... BBBRRRAINNNSSSSSsss....

Nothing better after a cold ride than a hot bowl of brains with some cheese and crackers!

[Nemesis]

Ha! That's cool, Jason!

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

For those who may be confused this is what motofool is talking about. Now you only need to tread it on a 2 inches instead of 10 and your threads are protected.

[DreamN]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

Not sure how much portable you need it but if you don't use concrete and instead weld in braces everywhere it would only weigh like 20lbs and the female studs will never be notice when not in use. You could also weld on a pair of dolly wheels so you can tip it and roll it around.

Thinking of making it a third the height. Removable dolly wheels came to mind with the possibility of being mounted on a work bench.

By portable, I'm wondering how this could be used at the track if you don't have a place to really secure it down.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by DreamN

Thinking of making it a third the height. Removable dolly wheels came to mind with the possibility of being mounted on a work bench.

By portable, I'm wondering how this could be used at the track if you don't have a place to really secure it down.

At a track I just have the tire vendor mount my stuff for free, but I don't think everyone gets that same VIP treatment. If your at the track then you'll most likely have someone to help hold the can stable so you do have other options.

You can try using one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PF34IE and mount it to a larger piece of ply wood so you can stand on it. You can also do my idea but with a 5 gal bucket and just fill the whole thing with cement, it will double as a leg wieght for you canopy. But be warned the 5gal bucket is to small to fit any rotors over 280mm so it will most likely only work with single rotor wheels. Old steel 15 car wheels also make decent tire mounting stands.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by DreamN

Thinking of making it a third the height. Removable dolly wheels came to mind with the possibility of being mounted on a work bench.

By portable, I'm wondering how this could be used at the track if you don't have a place to really secure it down.

Look here i think this is exactly what your asking for. http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthre...=tire+changing its easier to make initially but a bit more finagling to use. Just not what I was looking for when I made mine.

[alex.s]

bravo, sir. this is now on my "todo" list.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

At a track I just have the tire vendor mount my stuff for free, but I don't think everyone gets that same VIP treatment. If your at the track then you'll most likely have someone to help hold the can stable so you do have other options.

kevin has this done every time we are at the track and i always assumed he was trading blowjobs for free tire changes... i guess not

[CZroe]

I still want to get a pallet and attach the Harbor Freight tire changer to it then find a way to use an old rim on top as a motorcycle tire changer.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by CZroe

I still want to get a pallet and attach the Harbor Freight tire changer to it then find a way to use an old rim on top as a motorcycle tire changer.

Uh isn't the point of the HF tire changing stand to use the three arm clamps to hold the wheel? Why do you need to add a car rim? Also if you already have the HF stand then I can see utilizing it but I wouldn't go out a pay for one?

[caps]

This is pretty awesome.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

Uh isn't the point of the HF tire changing stand to use the three arm clamps to hold the wheel? Why do you need to add a car rim? Also if you already have the HF stand then I can see utilizing it but I wouldn't go out a pay for one?

That's the motorcycle attachment, which they don't sell anymore. Even when they did, you still needed the regular tire changer for the mount/demount bar and base. The pallet is so I can stand on it as I go around without anchoring it to anything.

I also want to dip the mount/demount bar in some slippery plastic coating rather than cutting up rim savers. It really is the "po' man's" tire changer ($32 after coupon for the bar and stand), which I've already used on a few car tires.