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Old August 9th, 2009, 03:13 PM   #1
Purspeed
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Throttle Cable Zip Tie Mod - DIY

Purspeed's "Throttle Zip-Tie Mod"

Do you want to have WOT (wide open throttle) with less twist of the wrist?

Then this modification is for you!


Purpose: To increase the travel of the throttle cable along a larger diameter throttle tube so that the rider achieves wide open throttle without having to twist the throttle all the way back.

Time it takes for mod: 15 minutes or less

Difficulty: easy

Cost: ~ $2.00 or less


What you will need
(1) zip tie about 1/4 wide. Buy at Home Depot or hardware store

(2) superglue

(3) screwdriver (use the proper phillips head to avoid damaging the delicate screw)

(4) a file or sandpaper to sand down the edges of the zip tie

(5) alcohol pads or simple green to clean the area for a professional install



This is what you do

A. Cut a zip tie 3" in length.

B. File down both edges of the zip tie (on the ribbed side) to a thin edge. (rough up the back side along the edges, too, to get a better surface for the glue)

C. Unscrew the throttle cable housing. Then, clean the white plastic area with an alcohol pad or Simple Green so that the glue will properly adhere. (now is the time to clean this area and lube the throttle cables)

D. Now super glue an end of the zip-tie to your throttle tube (as pictured) and do the same for the other end.

E. Re-assemble the housing (as pictured) and carefully thread in the screws. Tighten very gently and snug. You do not need a lot of force to keep the screws in place.

F. Check to ensure that there is no binding of the throttle cables and that everything is functioning correctly.

That's it!
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf Throttle Cable Zip Tie Mod - DIY - ninjette.org.pdf (9.57 MB, 417 views)
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Old August 9th, 2009, 03:19 PM   #2
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Below are a few pictures of the assembly going back together. If you look at the pictures carefully, you will be able to orient the (2) cables properly in the housing. Then, you simply screw the housing together and you are done.


If the mod is done properly, you will notice that it takes significantly less twist of the wrist to get the throttle open.

Since the 250's do not output a lot of juice, this mod can be quite helpful, especially on freeways or riding nice and hard.

I just finished completing the mod only moments ago, so I will do a review on my test ride today.
Attached Images
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Old August 9th, 2009, 04:27 PM   #3
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what I like best about a quicker throttle is that you are able to go from idle to WOT with a single twist of the wrist instead of having to "regrab" the throttle when you get close to WOT.

great DIY.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 04:45 PM   #4
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that's an interesting fix/mod. took me a few to figure out what you were actually doing. but i understood it and i'm lookin forward to your review after your ride.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 06:08 PM   #5
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I would love to do this, is it reversible?
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Old August 9th, 2009, 06:10 PM   #6
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sure is... just take the glued zip tie back off. if it tears up the throttle tube when you do so, I've seen stock throttle tubes for cheap on ebay.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 06:53 PM   #7
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There were two things on the Ninjette that I thought were a PITA. One was the lazy throttle response--a definite linkage problem. Purespeed, you solved the problem. Sure makes a difference. The second problem involves checking the oil on the 08-09 Ninjettes. Since they are not equipped with a centre stand, one needs to put the bike up on a "Pit Bull" to check the oil level in that little window. The other alternative is to have a buddy check the window while you hold the bike steady.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 06:55 PM   #8
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Nice DIY! /Moved to the pre-gen tech section, but also linked to it from main DIY index. Purspeed - thanks for all of the time and effort that went into this. Ping me if you start to work on another fun one, so I can point you to how to get this done in the wiki. All of these DIY's and similar type threads will be migrated over there at some point, so it will be an easier transition if as new ones are created they are just there in the first place.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 06:59 PM   #9
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theoretically to increase the perceived torque responce, you could add a second layer to the top half of the zip tie, this will increase the percentage of throttle given for the second half of twist travel.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 07:12 PM   #10
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true, but you have only so much room to play with inside that throttle housing before things start rubbing and stop turning... ask me how I know?

feel free to experiment, though... you may strike upon the right combination of zip tie thickness and space allowed to make it work.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 07:12 PM   #11
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i think i might do this as soon as i get more comfortable on the bike, for now i think i need to adjust my throttle play :/ feel like there too much space in there where it's not pulling.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 07:34 PM   #12
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Thanks all for the compliments. I hope that you find the DIY useful.

Alex: I'll be sure to give you head's up next time so that we can coordinate the wiki-thingy.


I got back from a 1.25 hour ride under various conditions and speeds. Overall, the throttle effort and length of twist has been improved by 35%-40%.

What does this mean in the real world? You use less effort/energy to get the bike up and running. Since there is little useable power under 7,000 RPM's, this mod helps you get into the useable range of power much more quickly.

Acceleration is noticeably improved. I was able to consistently achieve a top speed in the +20MPH over my usual top speed. Usually, you are forced to re-grip the throttle to achieve this speed, and doing so is very hazardous.

Effort is about 35-45% less and throttle control is significantly better. So much so, that I would recommend everyone to consider doing this mod. It makes riding the bike much more pleasant and enables it to hold its own on the road.

My wrist as of now is not hurting. Usually, after a long ride on the freeway, my wrist gets painful. Again, this mod means that you don't need to be a contorsionist in order to reach WOT.

If 1 zip is good, then 2 must be better, right? Well, I was so pleased with the results that I ended up adding another zip tie to the first one. I simply glued it over the original zip tie and repeated the instructions above.

The result? Not sure. There is a bit of binding, but my thottle was binding anyway. Sometimes it doesn't seem to bind. But, since it's late now, I cannot take it for a test ride.

I did end up revving it real good with the double zip tie mod. My observations? It takes MUCH less effort to go WOT. Much less. I like it.

Now, whether I will have any problems (such as the ones KKim hinted at), I will see this week. I will report back on what I find.

You guys are going to like this mod!
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Old August 9th, 2009, 07:41 PM   #13
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I assume this would work for 08-09, if so i would like to buy an used throttle tube and housing off ebay, and possibly dremel the inside of the housing to allow more room. I hate regripping.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 07:42 PM   #14
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thanks for sharing!
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Old August 9th, 2009, 07:49 PM   #15
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I like it already, thanks for the update. I'm still new to this so i'm afraid I will end up giving it too much throttle if i do this, because I haven't needed WOT at all yet (im either learning really slow, or uncomfortable doing that yet in any gear, prob both).
But even without needing WOT I seem to have trouble finding a comfortable wrist position.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 07:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimeified View Post
I assume this would work for 08-09, if so i would like to buy an used throttle tube and housing off ebay, and possibly dremel the inside of the housing to allow more room.
Bill, it's not that simple. The thing that drags is the plastic piece that protrudes out into the throttle housing from where the cables enter. I cut mine to allow more room, but they also use that piece as the mechanical throttle stop, so modifying that tube required more adjustment, which you don't really have. You end up with a good amount of throttle slop before the throttle starts affecting the revs. I ended up buying a new pull throttle cable to fix the slop problem as that plastic piece is part of that cable assembly.

PS- watch out... the throttle should snap back cleanly and without any hesitation. Any binding might come back as a stuck throttle at the most inopportune time.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 07:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimeified View Post
I assume this would work for 08-09, if so i would like to buy an used throttle tube and housing off ebay, and possibly dremel the inside of the housing to allow more room. I hate regripping.
This will work on all Ninja 250's, regardless of year made.

I am not sure what you are trying to do with a used throttle tube, but for this mod, you can simple use your factory tube.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 07:56 PM   #18
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I will do this asap. Bike has been in the shop for 3 weeks . Damn bike shop cant get a completion date strait.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 07:57 PM   #19
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PS- watch out... the throttle should snap back cleanly and without any hesitation. Any binding might come back as a stuck throttle at the most inopportune time.
I just checked and the throttle is snapping back relatively quick. It takes a bit getting used to not seeing the throttle twist all the way back like it did before.

@ everyone: The double zip mod means that you go WOT with a little less than 25% twist (compared to over 50% twist factory stock).
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Old August 9th, 2009, 08:15 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by DarkNinja52 View Post
I like it already, thanks for the update. I'm still new to this so i'm afraid I will end up giving it too much throttle if i do this, because I haven't needed WOT at all yet (im either learning really slow, or uncomfortable doing that yet in any gear, prob both).
But even without needing WOT I seem to have trouble finding a comfortable wrist position.
Sure thing.

About the mod, if you are new to riding, then do not do this mod. You will know when you are ready to do this mod in about half a year or so of riding.

In reference to finding a comfortable position, it sounds to me that you *may* need to adjust the positions of the clutch lever and brake lever.

You can loosen the bolt on the clutch lever and the two hex screws on the brake lever and slide them inwards, outwards, up and down until you find the perfect fit.

Remember, the back of your hands should be level to the ground and you should be able to rest your index finger comfortably on the brake lever (with closed throttle).

I have adjusted mine (recently) and it made a big difference in minute control over the brake and clutch. Riding is much improved.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 09:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Sure thing.

About the mod, if you are new to riding, then do not do this mod. You will know when you are ready to do this mod in about half a year or so of riding.

In reference to finding a comfortable position, it sounds to me that you *may* need to adjust the positions of the clutch lever and brake lever.

You can loosen the bolt on the clutch lever and the two hex screws on the brake lever and slide them inwards, outwards, up and down until you find the perfect fit.

Remember, the back of your hands should be level to the ground and you should be able to rest your index finger comfortably on the brake lever (with closed throttle).

I have adjusted mine (recently) and it made a big difference in minute control over the brake and clutch. Riding is much improved.
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll have to take a look next time I go out. My first thought was that the throttle has too much play (which it might) the manual says 2 -3mm which i havent measured but im sure it seems a bit more than that, and also manuevering around slowly is kinda hard because I feel like im turning the throttle but it seems to travel a bit before it pulls.

But also now that you mention it, the levers seem to be a bit low. I'll have to do some basic fiddling with it.

i really like the zip tie mod though , good work, can't wait till im comfortable enough on the bike to try it out
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Old August 9th, 2009, 11:15 PM   #22
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Thanks for the suggestions, I'll have to take a look next time I go out. My first thought was that the throttle has too much play (which it might) the manual says 2 -3mm which i havent measured but im sure it seems a bit more than that, and also manuevering around slowly is kinda hard because I feel like im turning the throttle but it seems to travel a bit before it pulls.

But also now that you mention it, the levers seem to be a bit low. I'll have to do some basic fiddling with it.

i really like the zip tie mod though , good work, can't wait till im comfortable enough on the bike to try it out
Your job is to learn good throttle control. You can control the suspension, braking, and a lot of stuff with careful use of the throttle.

The main thing you should become familiar with is the "friction zone." This will assist you in low speed manuevers so that you will look like the CHP with twists and turns at 5 mph.

With the Ninja, it's a little bit more of a challenge due to the sloppy throttle response and carbs and fuel delivery. Fuel always seem to cut out at the most inopportune times.

I noticed that the mod has helped take some of the inconsistencies with slight throttle away. But, I will let you know a bit more over the next few days.

Get those levers adjusted to where they need to be. It helps. A lot.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 06:56 AM   #23
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Good job purspeed . It really is a pain when your on an onramp getting onto a highway and trying to accelerate pretty quickly when you gotta re-grab the throttle. Upsets the whole bike going fast to not accelerating to jumpin on the throttle again.

And what do you know...I just bought a new 600 pack of zip ties the other day . Maybe I'll try to green ones to increase the effectiveness of this mod
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Old August 10th, 2009, 07:08 AM   #24
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killer mod, and my favorite part is how inexpensive it is to make one of the most important things on the bike better.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 07:21 AM   #25
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fwiw i hear a lot of guys use a yamaha r1/r6 throttle tube as well due to its agressive cam, and this part can be had for like 6 bucks off ebay. seems like cheap insurance to keep your stock tube unmolested with glue and prevent binding up of the throttle cable if you eventually remove the ziptie. Plus im sure the zip tie will eventually get a grove worn into it over time from the stress of the cable. Kyle racing makes one as well specifically for our bikes, but i dont think it's worth the price.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 07:51 AM   #26
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I like this mod a lot!
I have some inquires though!
Your revs at idle speed are the same as before?

Why did you use the "rough" side of the zip tie to touch the cable instead od the smooth one?
I think using the smooth side will make the cable slip faster and also avoid from spoiling.

What do you think?
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Old August 10th, 2009, 08:38 AM   #27
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Good way of doing it, but be careful that there is no binding or your find a stuck throttle. I personally don't think it is worth the risk.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 02:36 PM   #28
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I like this mod a lot!
I have some inquires though!
Your revs at idle speed are the same as before?

Why did you use the "rough" side of the zip tie to touch the cable instead od the smooth one?
I think using the smooth side will make the cable slip faster and also avoid from spoiling.

What do you think?
Revs are the same at idle speed. If they are not, then the install did not go correctly. But, in truth, this mod is difficult to mess up because it is so easy and straightforward.

I used the ribbed side for the cable because that's how I have seen it done before. I haven't given it much thought. If anyone has any answers on this, I'd be interested.

Since mine is already done, perhaps someone else can use the smooth side and see if there is a difference.

Please note that using only 1 zip tie (thickness) works just fine. I put on a second one and experienced some binding. I am in the process of cleaning everything and have already sanded down the edged of the second layer of zip (where it meets the end of the cables) to taper it off and see if this helps with the binding.

I'll post here what I find tonight.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 03:34 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purspeed View Post
I used the ribbed side for the cable because that's how I have seen it done before. I haven't given it much thought. If anyone has any answers on this, I'd be interested.

Since mine is already done, perhaps someone else can use the smooth side and see if there is a difference.
My guess would be that it was done that way for better adhesion of the zip tie. Since this puts the smooth side down, there are more areas for contact. If it were done the other way, the glue would need to fill each groove for better adhesion.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 04:42 PM   #30
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My guess would be that it was done that way for better adhesion of the zip tie. Since this puts the smooth side down, there are more areas for contact. If it were done the other way, the glue would need to fill each groove for better adhesion.
That sounds logical. If anything, the ribbed side will give the throttle cable less area to rub against, which means less friction and a smaller chance of possible binding.

I just preformed this mod and I have to say I'm impressed. I never did like the slop it had. Shifting to second and third was always a little jerky and rev matching while engine braking was a bit troublesome. The only problem is that I'm much more likely to WOT at every possible opportunity for awhile, dropping my MPG significantly.

Once again, Ninjette.org FTW! Muchos gracie, Purspeed.

BTW, definitely rough up the smooth side for better glue adhesion. The sanding wheel that came with my Dremel made it a snap.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 06:18 PM   #31
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That sounds logical. If anything, the ribbed side will give the throttle cable less area to rub against, which means less friction and a smaller chance of possible binding.

I just preformed this mod and I have to say I'm impressed. I never did like the slop it had. Shifting to second and third was always a little jerky and rev matching while engine braking was a bit troublesome. The only problem is that I'm much more likely to WOT at every possible opportunity for awhile, dropping my MPG significantly.

Once again, Ninjette.org FTW! Muchos gracie, Purspeed.

BTW, definitely rough up the smooth side for better glue adhesion. The sanding wheel that came with my Dremel made it a snap.
From what I understand, a ribbed surface gives better grip. That's why nature gave us fingerprints. But, at the same time, there's a reason why race machines use slicks...

Purspeed's Double Zip Tie Mod

1. Do all of the steps above.

2. Glue on another zip tie right on top of the first.

3. Grab a Dremel tool and use a circular grinding bit. What you are going to do is to grind down the areas starting at both ends and moving inwards about 3/4" (.75") to a nice taper. The zip ties should look like a cresent moon shape when viewed from the side.

If you grind this properly, then you should not experience binding. Do not be afraid to remove material. As a matter of fact, you will be grinding away most of the second zip tie (at the area close to both of the ends).

Why the grinding? Because it prevents binding! (yes, it rhymes...






Now, I have not ridden the bike, but I have spent 5-8 minutes revving the throttle to ensure a bind free solution.

If you just glue the second zip on top of the first, then you will certainly have binding. For this to work, you have to grind down the second zip tie so that it tapers off nice and gently towards the ends (where the cables are hooked into the plastic grip).

It appears that the thickness along the body (away from the edges) is what takes up the slack. So, when you grind away toward the ends, the removed material doesn't defeat the purpose. You still only need 1/4 twist to get WOT (Wide Open Throttle).

I will test ride the bike again tomorrow and post my findings.
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File Type: jpg crescent_~Crescent.jpg (11.7 KB, 18 views)
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Old August 10th, 2009, 06:26 PM   #32
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Looking foward to what you find out. I have a second zip tie standing by.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 06:35 PM   #33
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Looking foward to what you find out. I have a second zip tie standing by.
I rode for about a half hour with the second zip, but there was significant binding. I then proceeded to experiment by grinding and re-installing. I did so a dozen times or so until I found the right combo. Now, I have only revved the bike, I have not ridden it yet. But, come tomorrow, I should discover if it is, indeed, bindfree.

Regarding performance, I can tell you know that it is far superior to the single zip mod. Although it takes a bit more effort to twist the grip, you comfortably go WOT with only a quarter turn.

I was able to almost wheelie in first and second gear. I have never been able to do that before. Since you are removing a big obstacle (having to wind baaaaaack the throttle and regrip and wind baaaack), you achieve maximum HP's almost instantly.

One word of caution, the bike will require MUCH more throttle control because a smaller movement will result in much greater responsiveness.

The double zip tie mod should only be performed by more experienced riders.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 04:06 PM   #34
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Used a significant amount of silicone grease---no binding.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 04:41 PM   #35
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Just did the single tie mod last weekend on my pre-gen, and the bike has been an absolute blast to ride since then. I was starting to get a little bored with it, but the added challenge of having to be more precise with throttle positioning has been not only fun, but rewarding as well.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 07:49 PM   #36
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I went on a couple rides today and found that when it was really hot outside, there was the slightest binding. But, then again, I had problems with binding BEFORE the actual mod, so it is still a little difficult to attribute the binding to the mod or some other reason.

But, the bike is much more fun to ride. There is also much less fatigue on the hand.

When I rode it this afternoon, there was no binding and in general, there doesn't seem to be too much binding that I noticed.

I'm going to keep it the way it is. I like it and it works for me. I may add some lube or grind a bit more if I think it needs it.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 09:48 PM   #37
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PS- if you want to experiment with shape design, you might want to consider using some plastic PVC pipe. I think I experimented with some cut off sections and worked on getting it to slip over the tube throttle "cam" portion. much easier to work on a cam profile than a couple of zip ties glued together.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 10:03 PM   #38
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PS- if you want to experiment with shape design, you might want to consider using some plastic PVC pipe. I think I experimented with some cut off sections and worked on getting it to slip over the tube throttle "cam" portion. much easier to work on a cam profile than a couple of zip ties glued together.
Interesting approach. So, you would suggest grinding down the PVC pipe instead?

What about the Yamaha plastic grip...will this be a directly replacement? I read that it has an aggressive profile.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 10:17 PM   #39
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Yeah, just find the size pipe that will fit the portion where you now have the zip tie glued on.... sorry I forget what diameter pipe the is (1.5"?), but it was close.

bah... here's some pics instead.







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Old August 12th, 2009, 03:02 PM   #40
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Good pic's, Kkim.

I actually rode for about 1.25 hours again today and there was no binding. By taping down the edges, you do seem to lose a bit of the bite, but the double zip is still beyond that of a single.

At the same time, it doesn't seem like the R1/R6 throttle tubes make all that much of a difference. The "Purspeed" method (that I got elsewhere) and the "KKim" method seem like the best option for maximum performance vs. dollar.
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