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Old May 10th, 2010, 01:04 PM   #1
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Howto: Remove carbs in under 10 mins [Video!]

The generic removal process of the carbs on an '08 Ninja 250 is shown in my video here.

Quick thing to know... the airbox is removed and I have pod filters on there that greatly simplifies the removal process.

I hope this helps somebody!

Link to original page on YouTube.


Last futzed with by TheDuck; May 11th, 2010 at 10:35 AM. Reason: typos
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Old May 10th, 2010, 06:24 PM   #2
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Nice job, Duck.

A couple of additions/comments while my own removal is fresh in my so-called mind (I just did it yesterday).

- The carb drain screws are not at all hard to get to IF you have a long hex wrench. They're even offset from one another so you can access both of them from the right side of the bike. I've got a set of super-sized hex wrenches that came with my bicycle toolkit. They work just fine... no issues. If you don't have one of these, then forget trying to reach those screws.

- If you drain the tank before taking it off, you really don't need to worry about setting it down on the petcock, because you don't have to put it down horizontally (never put the tank on the petcock even if it's empty). I just put mine on its nose. and leaned it up against something handy.

- For those who still have the airbox installed, the carbs can't come out to the rear, but it's not hard to get them out through the left side of the frame. Just remove the left rubber intake runner (the one you've plugged with paper in the video). First you detach the airbox and push it back, then you loosen the carbs as shown in the video and push them to the rear a bit as well. They're now free, but they're trapped in there. Removing that left intake runner is then easy to do, and it opens up a big space that you can pull the carbs through. You don't need to remove the right one.

Last futzed with by adouglas; May 11th, 2010 at 07:18 AM. Reason: Edited to clarify the petcock thing
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Old May 10th, 2010, 08:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adouglas View Post
Nice job, Duck.

A couple of additions/comments while my own removal is fresh in my so-called mind (I just did it yesterday).

- The carb drain screws are not at all hard to get to IF you have a long hex wrench. They're even offset from one another so you can access both of them from the right side of the bike. I've got a set of super-sized hex wrenches that came with my bicycle toolkit. They work just fine... no issues. If you don't have one of these, then forget trying to reach those screws.

- If you drain the tank before taking it off, you really don't need to worry about setting it down on the petcock. I just put mine on its nose. and leaned it up against something handy.

- For those who still have the airbox installed, the carbs can't come out to the rear, but it's not hard to get them out through the left side of the frame. Just remove the left rubber intake runner (the one you've plugged with paper in the video). First you detach the airbox and push it back, then you loosen the carbs as shown in the video and push them to the rear a bit as well. They're now free, but they're trapped in there. Removing that left intake runner is then easy to do, and it opens up a big space that you can pull the carbs through. You don't need to remove the right one.
You've got some good suggestions, but no I don't have a long enough allen key (and I hate those damn things anyways) and I can't get my banana fingers in there with a shorter tool, lol!

I've still managed to get the carbs out of the top/back with the airbox in. I removed the clamps from the airbox boots and rolled them back like a condom, loosened the airbox and pushed it back as far as it would go. Then removed the intake runners and presto. Maybe a litlte more work, but it did work! One thing is for sure... it was easier to get the airbox boots back on, just roll them back down and they snap back into position over the carbs!

As far as the petcock, you should never set the tank on the petcock. One wrong move, and :: broke :: you won't be happy. Its not meant to be load-bearing. Standing the tank up is a good idea, though! But my tank has a lot of gas in it. It probably would have leaked out of the cap and out the overflow spigot.
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Old May 10th, 2010, 09:08 PM   #4
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Excellent vid - thanks for sharing!
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Old May 10th, 2010, 10:16 PM   #5
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Good video...nice ducky at the end
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Old May 10th, 2010, 10:51 PM   #6
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Old May 11th, 2010, 10:27 AM   #7
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I think video diy is an exellent idea. We need a adjust valve diy
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Old May 11th, 2010, 10:31 AM   #8
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I think video diy is an exellent idea. We need a adjust valve diy
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Yep, I need a third hand for filming it, lol. When I have other people film me they never get the camera angles right or stand behind me when said subject is on the other side of me. Stupid things....

Its like having someone hold a flashlight under the hood while you work, lol.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 10:33 AM   #9
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A valve adjustment video would be a long video Plug I think by the end your camera wouldn't be happy after you inadvertantly get oil all over it from the frequent starts/stops, movement, etc.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 10:37 AM   #10
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A valve adjustment video would be a long video Plug I think by the end your camera wouldn't be happy after you inadvertantly get oil all over it from the frequent starts/stops, movement, etc.
There's always ways around the messes... camera condoms.

It would be neat to do a "adjust your valves in 10 minutes" though. I'll try!
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Old May 11th, 2010, 10:41 AM   #11
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Well the adjustment part isn't bad, it's the taking everything apart to check the valves that takes all the time. I suppose if you kind of jumped steps (like instead of filming removing every single valve cap and shim, just one or two and assuming the rest) would make a video plausible.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 10:45 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Well the adjustment part isn't bad, it's the taking everything apart to check the valves that takes all the time. I suppose if you kind of jumped steps (like instead of filming removing every single valve cap and shim, just one or two and assuming the rest) would make a video plausible.
Plus less narration time, haha. My chain replacement video for my SV650 filled almost 11 mins because I talked too much.
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Old May 21st, 2010, 10:43 PM   #13
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what's liquid u draind out? great video, thanks a lot
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Old May 22nd, 2010, 12:07 PM   #14
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what's liquid u draind out? great video, thanks a lot
Magic carb fluid that you have to change every 3000 miles with the oil.... Ok ok ok... seriously, it was gasoline!

Last futzed with by TheDuck; May 22nd, 2010 at 07:09 PM.
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Old May 22nd, 2010, 12:12 PM   #15
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Oh, Duck, you rolled over way too easy!

Anyone who could ask what kind of fluid gets drained out of a carburetor is just begging to be led on.....

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Old May 22nd, 2010, 01:44 PM   #16
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Old May 22nd, 2010, 07:09 PM   #17
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Oh, Duck, you rolled over way too easy!

Anyone who could ask what kind of fluid gets drained out of a carburetor is just begging to be led on.....

Awww, be nice. I wouldn't do that on THIS forum, maybe one of the other ones where everyone is an a-hole.
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Old May 22nd, 2010, 07:49 PM   #18
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Magic carb fluid that you have to change every 3000 miles with the oil.... Ok ok ok... seriously, it was gasoline!

haha.,can i get those from the walgreen? ahah thanks Duck!
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Old May 22nd, 2010, 07:55 PM   #19
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haha.,can i get those from the walgreen? ahah thanks Duck!
Nah, Walgreen doesn't sell it. You'll have to go to a more obvious place... like a health food store.

Glad I could help!
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Old May 26th, 2010, 12:26 AM   #20
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It's all a front. Duck's using his tank to distill moonshine. He was just draining the toxic first batch of swill out
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Old May 26th, 2010, 12:45 AM   #21
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It's all a front. Duck's using his tank to distill moonshine. He was just draining the toxic first batch of swill out
Me thirsty
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Old May 26th, 2010, 12:57 AM   #22
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I used to have pet mallards that would waddle over and hop up in your lap any time they saw you sit down.

Anyway, considering that I have no idea what carbs even do really (guessing: mix air and fuel?), how do I adjust the jets to lean it up? I've been told that my stock bike is running way too rich and I'd like to lean it up. The exhaust smells and fuel economy has dropped. My choke cable also stopped fully engaging the choke... have to move the lever all the way for it to finally start affecting the engine speed and even then I can't raise it too much.
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Old May 26th, 2010, 01:24 AM   #23
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My choke cable also stopped fully engaging the choke... have to move the lever all the way for it to finally start affecting the engine speed and even then I can't raise it too much.
have you tried adjusting the choke cable for proper clearance as outlined in your owner's manual? sounds to me like it might always be not properly adjusted so it's always engaged.... or at least partially, even when in the off position.
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Old May 26th, 2010, 04:58 AM   #24
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have you tried adjusting the choke cable for proper clearance as outlined in your owner's manual? sounds to me like it might always be not properly adjusted so it's always engaged.... or at least partially, even when in the off position.
It's the opposite problem. Only the last tiny bit of movement after moving it nearly all the way will affect the engine speed. If anything, it's idling too slow. This happened suddenly mid-ride once (was still warming up at a stop light when the cable seemed to go slack as I returned it).

The dealers have just said "no issues" when I asked them to look at it during my regular services.
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Old May 26th, 2010, 06:47 AM   #25
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It's all a front. Duck's using his tank to distill moonshine. He was just draining the toxic first batch of swill out
I wonder if I can run my 250 on that first batch.
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Old June 29th, 2010, 06:20 PM   #26
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loosen carburetor holder clamps

What is the trick to loosening the clamps off the air cleaner element and pulling the air cleaner housing rearward?? I have gotten everything else off as per the service manual but am struggling with this step (assuming I didn't miss anything else). I need to get at the pilot jet and check if its clogged.

thanks in advance
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Old June 29th, 2010, 06:42 PM   #27
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Okay, those clamps are loose ... but the air cleaner housing won't budge

The service manual suggests I shouldn't have to lose a few muscles in pulling the air cleaner housing rearward but I can't get it to move back enough to pop the carb off. Its mounting bolts are off, and so is the battery and its case. So am I missing loosening or removing a bolt somewhere?
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Old June 29th, 2010, 07:12 PM   #28
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check this DIY to see if you've removed all the airbox bolts.

http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250r...ll-re-jet.html
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Old June 29th, 2010, 08:15 PM   #29
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solved!

Forgot to remove the choke cable. So now the carbs are waiting to be cleaned tomorrow. Whew.

Thanks kkim; your DIY did the trick.
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Old June 29th, 2010, 08:52 PM   #30
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So now the carbs are waiting to be cleaned tomorrow.
wha'cha doin'?
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Old June 29th, 2010, 09:31 PM   #31
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Smile

trying to fall asleep
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Old December 24th, 2010, 08:47 PM   #32
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I used this video today to help remove my carbs.

Duck's video and ADouglas' tips for what to do if you still have a stock airbox lessened my headaches greatly. Thanks to both of you.

I'm trying to get my 250 back on its feet right now after sitting for about a year or so...
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Old December 25th, 2010, 02:23 PM   #33
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I used this video today to help remove my carbs.

Duck's video and ADouglas' tips for what to do if you still have a stock airbox lessened my headaches greatly. Thanks to both of you.

I'm trying to get my 250 back on its feet right now after sitting for about a year or so...
Your Honda was just too damn fun, huh?
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Old December 26th, 2010, 08:19 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurosaki View Post
I used this video today to help remove my carbs.

Duck's video and ADouglas' tips for what to do if you still have a stock airbox lessened my headaches greatly. Thanks to both of you.

I'm trying to get my 250 back on its feet right now after sitting for about a year or so...
I will never pull the carbs out EVER again unless I already have changed or am changing to cone type filters, lol. Have a link to Duck's video?
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Old December 26th, 2010, 09:29 PM   #35
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I will never pull the carbs out EVER again unless I already have changed or am changing to cone type filters, lol. Have a link to Duck's video?
It's in the OP and is what this thread is about.
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Old December 27th, 2010, 12:11 AM   #36
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It's in the OP and is what this thread is about.
DOH!!
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Old December 28th, 2010, 04:05 PM   #37
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Your Honda was just too damn fun, huh?
Well, a lot of things happened in 09 that led to the 250 sitting for awhile.

First, I crashed it at Buttonwillow. Bike was fine and I even continued the rest of the day but I cracked my Area P header. I put the stock exhaust back on. Then I happened to buy my 600RR two months later and wouldn't you know it, I crashed that bike too (on the same effing turn at Buttonwillow) and that was the end of my track days for the year. I hadn't even had the bike but a couple months and it was already inoperable. The Honda took a lot more work to fix so my money was going there when I found deals on ebay and forums and stuff.. And I didn't want to take my focus off school so I back burnered both bikes. By the end of 09, my 600RR was repaired back to shape but the 250 had sat so long that the gas gummed up and the carbs gummed up and it was unrideable. That along with the balding tires, I just stuck it in the garage and forgot about it.

I spent all of 2010 concentrating on my 600RR. It has 6600 miles on it now and I've done 6 trackdays on it. It's a lot of fun... I love this bike. It goes fast, stops fast, turns fast.

I couldn't just leave my 250 in the garage forever though so I decided I would get it out and work on it when I got home from school this semester. So that's what I did.

It's running pretty good right now. And I have a set of tires that need to go on it. A BT016 front and BT090 rear.

Thanks Duck again for the video and TJ(vex) for his airbox writeup. I'm going to bring both bikes back with me to school I think and looking to fall in love with the 250 again. Even just riding it around the neighborhood after I finished up work I remembered why I liked this bike so much in the first place... And after spending time on the 600RR I'll probably appreciate both bikes that much more.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 11:13 AM   #38
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I will never pull the carbs out EVER again unless I already have changed or am changing to cone type filters, lol. Have a link to Duck's video?
+1. I thought I had seen some pita carbs to pull, but the stock airbox is a bit lf a challenge. How to pull the carbs in 10 minutes... hmm. IF you don't have a stock airbox. Granted I am slow and ntb, but add 3 hours.

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Old April 10th, 2011, 11:33 AM   #39
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Heres the video again anyways! :-D

Link to original page on YouTube.

After pulling the stock airbox the first time very carefully and it taking most of an afternoon to do so... I could probably do it the second time in under an hour.

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Old January 11th, 2013, 10:04 AM   #40
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I read online that you can take the cables off by taking the mounting screw off the plate holding them? I don't feel like messing with adjusting them again, plus how do I remove the actual cables from the carB?
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Easiest way to remove carbs? chadh92 1986 - 2007 Ninja 250R Tech Talk 22 April 9th, 2013 06:59 PM
[VIDEO HOWTO]: Replace Ninja 250 Brake Pads in 10 mins TheDuck 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk 26 October 28th, 2010 01:26 AM



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