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Old February 20th, 2011, 05:09 PM   #1
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Removing bar ends

Anyone have a problem removing the stock bar ends ? I got some new ones with allen head screws with my slider kit but I can't get neither screw to beak loose on the stock ones. I even tried a impact tool you hit with a hammer and all I have done is buggered up the screws so bad I don't think anything will do it now
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Old February 20th, 2011, 05:19 PM   #2
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Heat the screw up with a butane torch for a few minutes then take the impact tool or drill to the screw. Should come right out, just be careful cause it will be friggin hot
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Old February 20th, 2011, 05:21 PM   #3
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I'll give that a try thx
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Old February 20th, 2011, 05:35 PM   #4
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http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12960

scroll down to post #2.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 06:07 PM   #5
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I used a cutoff wheel on my angle grinder and cut into the end of the bar end and thru the bolt then the bar ends fell off and I used vice grip pliers to pull out the bolt stud. I did not want to put heat to it and the stock bar ends seemed useless to me so I did not care about damaging them. I ordered new heavy barends and love them.

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Heavy.../dp/B003V12XSW

They are inexpensive, great quality, much heavier than stock and beefy. Also I was able to add washers to the inside of the bar end to get the desired space between the bar end and my heated grips.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 07:20 PM   #6
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Torch for about 1-2 minutes a side worked for me too and as noted above it will be very hot so be careful. After heating I was able to easily use screwdriver to remove.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 09:44 PM   #7
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Only heat the screw head, not the entire bar end.Otherwise you might melt your grips.

It amazes me that Kawasaki is so liberal on red loctite for the bar end screws, but much more important fasteners on the bike have none.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 10:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
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I used a cutoff wheel on my angle grinder and cut into the end of the bar end and thru the bolt then the bar ends fell off and I used vice grip pliers to pull out the bolt stud. I did not want to put heat to it and the stock bar ends seemed useless to me so I did not care about damaging them. I ordered new heavy barends and love them.

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Heavy.../dp/B003V12XSW

They are inexpensive, great quality, much heavier than stock and beefy. Also I was able to add washers to the inside of the bar end to get the desired space between the bar end and my heated grips.
I dont suppose we could get a photo of the bar ends on the bike. They look like they're tapered differently than stock.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 10:18 PM   #9
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I used a ratchet with a #2 Phillips bit and it came right off.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 10:21 PM   #10
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I dont suppose we could get a photo of the bar ends on the bike. They look like they're tapered differently than stock.
I will get one for you tomorrow. They are the same diameter of the grip at the grip and then taper down a little, but look good IMO. They are a huge improvment over stock as they are beefy and heavy to reduce vibration. And come with a allen head bolt.
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 01:09 AM   #11
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I used a butane torch.

As someone said, make sure it is just the bolt otherwise you might start cooking your grips.

Afterwards screws come of really easy.
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 01:25 AM   #12
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I used a butane torch. As someone said, make sure it is just the bolt otherwise you might start cooking your grips.
Yes, or worse cooking your throttle tube. Here are some pics of the $30 heavy bar ends and another link to them.

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Heavy.../dp/B003V12XSW



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Old February 22nd, 2011, 03:54 AM   #13
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Jax, you aren't alone. Before I realized there was locktite in there, I mangled my bar end screws when I tried to take them off to change grips. Ended up using a little chisel to remake and deepen the mangled screwdriver hole for better grip, heating up the ends with a soldering gun to release the locktite, then used a ratchet attachment on the screwdriver. I destroyed the screws and had to replace them, but they came out.

If I had to do it again, I'd have gone straight to the soldering gun or torch and used an impact wrench. (I chose the soldering gun last time to localize the heat to the screw and protect the grips and throttle tube.) Locktite melts at 400 degrees and lubes the screw, so heat is really the way to go. Would have been able to save the screws that way. Also, if I had to do it again I would have switched out to the heavier bar ends with the allen head screws seen below. Allen head screws should have come standard on the bike if they are going to use locktite.

Good luck.
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 05:40 PM   #14
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I will try all of the above this weekend --- thankx

BTW, I guess I need to post up some pics soon of the Black one in the garage next to the Green slower one

and here I am talking bad about green when I have lots of Kawi green shirts plus a 12 ft Green Kawasaki banner in my garage as well as Kawi streamers hanging from the ceiling

sorry Greenie owners, my bad LOL
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 05:45 PM   #15
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One screw of mine is also stripped - tried to remove before finding the site. Have the screw, but have not had no desire to try to remove the messed up screw after yelling at it back then...
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 07:23 PM   #16
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BTW, I guess I need to post up some pics soon of the Black one in the garage next to the Green slower one
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 08:28 PM   #17
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Fortunately, Commodus' opinion ultimately didn't matter much.
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 08:31 PM   #18
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LOL, that's funny! But kkim is right, green is faster!
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 09:18 PM   #19
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I will get one for you tomorrow. They are the same diameter of the grip at the grip and then taper down a little, but look good IMO. They are a huge improvment over stock as they are beefy and heavy to reduce vibration. And come with a allen head bolt.
Cool. They look good. If i ever end up needing bar end replacements, i'll definitely pick up a pair of these. The other ones I've seen online are like $60 a pair.

I just used my mom's creme brule butane torch. Worked like a charm.
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Old February 23rd, 2011, 03:43 PM   #20
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LOL, that's funny! But kkim is right, green is faster!
haha

color don't matter much here on the roads of East TN and W NC.... The Dragon and the Cherohala and the Blue Ridge don't care what color it is just as long as you ride and enjoy
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Old February 24th, 2011, 11:18 PM   #21
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Old February 28th, 2011, 03:52 PM   #22
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bar end removal

I used a #3 and it came off . . although it did break the bit . . lol. I did it in -3deg c weather though possibly why the btt broke. Used the #2 to finish the job. Did a number on the screw, may oped to change the screw down the road.

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I used a ratchet with a #2 Phillips bit and it came right off.
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Old July 4th, 2013, 12:57 PM   #23
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RISE OLD THREAD!


Are there any new methods to removing the bar ends? Dont have an impact gun or heat gun, so i just used a massive bbq lighter and heated the bolt for about 4 minutes, tried, failed..and continued to 10 minutes. could definitely feel the heat when i put my hand on the grip..but to no avail. I know theres a good gallon of red loctite or so on them and ppl seem to get it with a heat gun, but no matter which method or tool i use, it wont budge..not even an inch.
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Old July 4th, 2013, 01:26 PM   #24
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I used a propane torch (jet lighter would work too). I found that I had to tap the bolt with a hammer several times (and by tap, I mean put some effort into it, but don't go overboard). It should be fairly easy to remove the bolt after that.
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Old July 4th, 2013, 01:28 PM   #25
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I used a porter cable impact drill and a large Philips bit, both came off in seconds.

One can also use a Philips socket on a long ratchet, just keep pressure against the socket and screw.
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Old July 4th, 2013, 01:42 PM   #26
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Ive tried all the methods in this thread other than the impact gun and obviously drilling the head off. I have a feeling im gonna have to completely destroy them to get them off, just like i did with my oil bolt >_>.
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Old July 4th, 2013, 01:42 PM   #27
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Skip all the hassle.

1/4" drill bit and 60 seconds of your time, and that bar end will be off.
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Old July 4th, 2013, 02:37 PM   #28
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Skip all the hassle.

1/4" drill bit and 60 seconds of your time, and that bar end will be off.
funny you say that, thats exactly what i just did. Still not out though
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Old July 4th, 2013, 06:01 PM   #29
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i have done it! 16threads of red locktight.... was also heating the bolt throughout the day....that was fckn ridiculous. F u kawi!
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Old July 4th, 2013, 06:05 PM   #30
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i have done it! 16threads of red locktight.... was also heating the bolt throughout the day....that was fckn ridiculous. F u kawi!
Well sounds like you've got the head drilled out. I would've highly recommended this bad boy:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3MANcVjKs7...20/10cr_lg.jpg

Grab that sucka and twist it out!
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Old July 4th, 2013, 06:06 PM   #31
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i got mine out with just a 1/4inch driver and a phillips screw head attachment, sure i broke 2 phillips head bits before i got the one out but they were cheaper bits
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Old July 4th, 2013, 06:12 PM   #32
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Well sounds like you've got the head drilled out. I would've highly recommended this bad boy:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3MANcVjKs7...20/10cr_lg.jpg

Grab that sucka and twist it out!
thats what i used after i got the head off, tried it without heating and it still did not budge, no matter how hard i tried. about 85% of the threads were full red locktight lol..dont think ive ever seen so much before o.o

sadly my new bar ends dont fit. Rojo tried to warn me but it was too late
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Old July 4th, 2013, 06:17 PM   #33
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thats what i used after i got the head off, tried it without heating and it still did not budge, no matter how hard i tried. about 85% of the threads were full red locktight lol..dont think ive ever seen so much before o.o

sadly my new bar ends dont fit. Rojo tried to warn me but it was too late
Sloppy joe must've applied yours at the factory. BTW I recommend using blue loctite and some stainless steel hex bolts for your replacement. Them bar ends are heavy window smashers.
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Old July 4th, 2013, 07:00 PM   #34
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Yeah they use tons of red locktite there. I drilled the heads on mine, still haven't gotten the shaft of the screws out
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Old July 5th, 2013, 08:22 AM   #35
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Yeah they use tons of red locktite there. I drilled the heads on mine, still haven't gotten the shaft of the screws out
Strange...mine came right off with no issues...phillips head on a ratchet
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Old July 5th, 2013, 12:56 PM   #36
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Yeah well, I don't have the phillips head attachment for a ratchet, but I have a drill and drill bit, so it was cheaper and easier to just drill it since I went with WC bars anyways.
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Old July 6th, 2013, 10:07 AM   #37
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Mine came out after some pounding with a manual impact driver and then used the bit on a ratchet.
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Old July 7th, 2013, 02:55 PM   #38
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After going to home depot to buy one my drill bit snapped while trying to drill that dang screw out. I got so pissed I smacked it with a rubber hammer and the head popped right off.
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Old July 7th, 2013, 03:08 PM   #39
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After going to home depot to buy one my drill bit snapped while trying to drill that dang screw out. I got so pissed I smacked it with a rubber hammer and the head popped right off.
Did you use a cobalt or HSS bit? That's pretty damn impressive to break the bit like that...the oem screw was pretty soft. Maybe you applied pressure some pressure in the wrong direction?
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Old July 7th, 2013, 04:23 PM   #40
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Maybe you applied pressure some pressure in the wrong direction?
That. I had already spent the whole day trying different strategies to get the bolt off, so I was pretty frustrated.
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