Heads up for anodized parts

[CThunder-blue]

Hey guys, I just read the thread on the 2wheels adjustable levers and wanted to comment on the fading bits. Anodizing is not a color treatment, contrary to what people believe. The side effect is the color, but anodizing creates a sacrificial top layer on aluminum to keep it from corroding. You may be thinking, "aluminum doesn't corrode." Generally, you'd be right, but it is susceptible to Galvanic Corrosion. What this means is when two metals of different compositions are in contact with each other and then subjected to an electrolyte like water, one of the metals will begin corroding. In this case, the bolts used to connect the folding levers are steel and the levers are aluminum.

One of the other things that the anodized layer is susceptible to is heat, and to a lesser extent UV. So it will also begin to color fade (layer break down) when in constant contact with either of these.

I'm not saying there are better or worse anodizing jobs, but every anodized part, no matter how good the processor, will eventually fade if left in direct sunlight.

I've seen black parts turn purple and as far as completely gone back to the brushed aluminum. I just wanted people to be aware that if they are buying parts for looks, I would suggest powder coating the part as an alternative. I wouldn't powder coat the joints since those are usually machined to have tight tolerances, but the exposed parts would be a good candidate. Powders are usually polyester based and certain single stage powders are premixed with the clear coat to achieve a glossy, UV resistant finish. The colors available will also be a closer match to body paint unless you have a metallic finish on your vehicle.

[CZroe]

How would you recommend that I paint my triple tree and clip-ons the closest to the rest of the frame?

[FrugalNinja250]

Minor correction: Aluminum corrode extremely easily and quickly, in seconds in fact. It's a "friendly" metal in that it has a strong affinity for oxygen. When aluminum corrodes the result is aluminum oxide. Al2O3 is very stable, essentially inert, and fairly hard, so when the surface of aluminum oxidizes it forms an oxide layer that does a good job of protecting the metal underneath. It is not a "sacrificial" surface.

Anodizing is a process that produces a thicker layer of aluminum oxide on the surface of the aluminum quickly, thicker and faster than what would occur naturally. Dyes can be added to give color effects. If the dyes are organic in nature they're more susceptible to fading under UV exposure.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxide

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing

[CThunder-blue]

Originally Posted by CZroe

How would you recommend that I paint my triple tree and clip-ons the closest to the rest of the frame?

I'm assuming you have an aftermarket triple tree. There are flat black (aka satin black) powder coats you can use for the triple. Anyone that does professional powder coating can mask off the certain areas that need to remain free of powder. The clip-ons would be more difficult since the powder will create a layer couple mils thick. I'm not sure what the tolerance is for the clip-ons. I'm assuming there's almost no wiggle room on there. I'm also unsure how the grips slide on. It should be possible, but there would be some extra work involved on making sure they mask off the correct length of the handle.

Originally Posted by FrugalNinja250

Minor correction: Aluminum corrode extremely easily and quickly, in seconds in fact. It's a "friendly" metal in that it has a strong affinity for oxygen. When aluminum corrodes the result is aluminum oxide. Al2O3 is very stable, essentially inert, and fairly hard, so when the surface of aluminum oxidizes it forms an oxide layer that does a good job of protecting the metal underneath. It is not a "sacrificial" surface.

Anodizing is a process that produces a thicker layer of aluminum oxide on the surface of the aluminum quickly, thicker and faster than what would occur naturally. Dyes can be added to give color effects. If the dyes are organic in nature they're more susceptible to fading under UV exposure.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxide

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing

Thanks for the correction .

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

I'm assuming you have an aftermarket triple tree. There are flat black (aka satin black) powder coats you can use for the triple. Anyone that does professional powder coating can mask off the certain areas that need to remain free of powder. The clip-ons would be more difficult since the powder will create a layer couple mils thick. I'm not sure what the tolerance is for the clip-ons. I'm assuming there's almost no wiggle room on there. I'm also unsure how the grips slide on. It should be possible, but there would be some extra work involved on making sure they mask off the correct length of the handle.



Thanks for the correction .

It's original... just showing many signs of wear. I was thinking about using the high-temp exhaust paint if I have any left over.

[CThunder-blue]

The high temp paints that are enamels will work, it doesn't necessarily have to be exhaust paint.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

The high temp paints that are enamels will work, it doesn't necessarily have to be exhaust paint.

Thanks. Will it require any special prep or can I just paint over what's there? I want to paint some other parts of the bike too, like my rusty mirror stalks, but I know that'll take prep (don't want rust under the paint)

[CThunder-blue]

Best thing to do will be to sand the parts. You want to rough up the surface a bit so the paint will stick to it better. If at all possible, find a shop that will sand blast it for you. If not, find some 1000 grit and go over the entire triple clamp. After you sand, wash it with soap and water, then let it dry. You can also use simple green or another mild degreaser. Then follow the directions on the can. The same would apply to the rusted parts. You want to remove any rust you can see since rust is like a cancer and will keep on spreading. You'll probably want to work with 400 grit for the rust, then follow with 800, then 1000 to get a nice finish before painting.

[jack_bm]

Sorry to bring up another old thread, if i was to get the2wheel levers would it be possible to sand them down and then spray them white, a sort of glossy white?

[CThunder-blue]

You would want to get them sand blasted. Sanding by hand would be difficult because of all the grooves machined in. If you just want to color change with spray paint, just mask off the area of the switch and mounting block. Clean the lever with a degreaser and just paint over the anodized lever.

[jack_bm]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

You would want to get them sand blasted. Sanding by hand would be difficult because of all the grooves machined in. If you just want to color change with spray paint, just mask off the area of the switch and mounting block. Clean the lever with a degreaser and just paint over the anodized lever.

Okay thanks tri, You dont think that white spray paint may get worn off easy if its just paited over?

[CThunder-blue]

Use a high temp ceramic paint. Those have very durable coatings.

[jack_bm]

Thanks for the advice i will get round to doing this when i get some new levers hopfully soon