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Old July 20th, 2011, 03:16 PM   #1
dragonboy
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DIY: T-Rex Frame Sliders and Spools

I did a lot of research on many frame sliders from Shinto and Intuitive to Shogun. All vary in price and design with pros and cons. I was about to make a decision when I found the new T-Rex 250R frame sliders (www.t-rex-racing.com). I like the fact that the slider mounts to two points and fits higher on the fairing, adding more protection, and are made in the USA. The innovative design looks well thought out and the price is $80 + $15 s/h with no tax if you’re outside of Texas. A big plus!

There are lots of good reviews from forums on other T-Rex bike slider applications (R6, 600R, etc.) and their bike stands are pretty popular. However, I could not find any slider reviews specifically for the 250 anywhere.

I contacted T-Rex with a ton of questions about the quality, build, design, etc. and their customer service is great (Thanks Tom!). So I decided to try a set out. I also ordered a set of rear plastic T-Rex spools for $12.50.

Items arrived within 3 days and parts are solid and fitment is dead-on. Since the install is very similar to the other sliders on the market, I’ll cover the basics and any additional tips on how the install went.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg T-Rex Sliders.jpg (70.4 KB, 177 views)
File Type: jpg 1.JPG (76.5 KB, 71 views)
File Type: jpg 2.JPG (73.9 KB, 61 views)
File Type: jpg 3.JPG (110.3 KB, 59 views)
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Old July 20th, 2011, 03:17 PM   #2
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Instructions are pretty thorough. Only discrepancy was I needed a 14mm socket and not 15mm and it didn’t note about using a jack to support the engine to remove the engine bolt. I’ve since contacted Tom at T-Rex and the instructions should be updated soon.

Tools: 5mm and 8mm hex keys, 14mm and 17 mm socket, socket wrench, lb. torque wrench, and possibly a breaker bar. The stock bolts were on really tight.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 4.JPG (91.3 KB, 82 views)
File Type: jpg 5.JPG (67.6 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg 6.JPG (75.1 KB, 34 views)
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Old July 20th, 2011, 03:18 PM   #3
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1. Put bike on rear stand. Side stand is okay, but it makes the job so much easier on a rear stand.
2. Strip bike - you know the drill. If not, it’s covered extensively on the forum.
3. Support the engine. I used auto floor jack with a flat piece of wood in between the jack and undercarriage.
4. Remove long engine bolt from (A - Red Circle) and bracket bolt (B – Red Circle).
5. Install bracket by installing small bolt with aluminum spacer by lightly tightening it. Do not tighten.

Tip 1: I found it easier to remove the nut from the right side with a 17mm socket wrench and used an open-end wrench to hold the bolt head in place on the left side.
Tip 2: For California bikes with the charcoal canisters, there’s a factory bracket on the left side of the bike (C – Red Circle) that may need to be bent/pushed back a bit. Also, you’ll need to add another washer (Red circle - extra washer) to the slider bolt to make it fit. Otherwise, bolt will hit the bracket and the slider will not install correctly.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 7.JPG (95.3 KB, 103 views)
File Type: jpg 8.JPG (47.0 KB, 129 views)
File Type: jpg 9.JPG (52.4 KB, 61 views)
File Type: jpg 10.JPG (73.9 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg 11.JPG (52.8 KB, 66 views)
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Old July 20th, 2011, 03:19 PM   #4
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6. Right side bracket install. Since the engine bolt is already removed, remove the top bolt (D – Red Circle).
7. Install flat plate and bracket with aluminum spacer.
8. Install long engine frame bolt. Torque setting is 35 lb.

Tip: Temporarily install slider bolt to keep the flat plate and bracket aligned.
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File Type: jpg 12.JPG (43.8 KB, 70 views)
File Type: jpg 13.JPG (66.4 KB, 58 views)
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Old July 20th, 2011, 03:19 PM   #5
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9. Install fairings.
10. Install long slider on the left and short slider on the right.
11. Install 10 mm spools. Super easy!
12. Go riding. Recheck bolts during your next service or wash.

Hope you found this helpful and just another slider option that’s easy to install, high-quality and at a great price with fantastic customer service.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 14.JPG (69.6 KB, 939 views)
File Type: jpg 15.JPG (76.6 KB, 95 views)
File Type: jpg 16.JPG (105.8 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg 17.JPG (59.0 KB, 141 views)
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Old July 20th, 2011, 04:24 PM   #6
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hhhmmm....


I like these
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Old July 20th, 2011, 04:40 PM   #7
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Old July 20th, 2011, 06:00 PM   #8
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Very nice guide!
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 05:55 PM   #9
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neat!

great job on the write-up
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Old September 29th, 2011, 09:54 PM   #10
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Thanks for the guide. I have the same sliders and the instruction sheets sucked balls.
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Old October 2nd, 2011, 08:44 PM   #11
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I noticed you mentioned something about a torque setting for the engine bolt. How important is it that I have the correct torque setting? Can I just tighten the bolt?
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Old October 2nd, 2011, 08:57 PM   #12
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I recall the instructions said 35 lb/tq but I think factory is 45. You might want to double-check. Anyways, tighten it as tight as you can and recheck after a few 100 miles. It's a little important since it does hold the engine in place. :-)

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I noticed you mentioned something about a torque setting for the engine bolt. How important is it that I have the correct torque setting? Can I just tighten the bolt?
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Old October 3rd, 2011, 12:55 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonboy View Post
I did a lot of research on many frame sliders from Shinto and Intuitive to Shogun. All vary in price and design with pros and cons. I was about to make a decision when I found the new T-Rex 250R frame sliders (www.t-rex-racing.com). I like the fact that the slider mounts to two points and fits higher on the fairing, adding more protection, and are made in the USA. The innovative design looks well thought out and the price is $80 + $15 s/h with no tax if you’re outside of Texas. A big plus!

There are lots of good reviews from forums on other T-Rex bike slider applications (R6, 600R, etc.) and their bike stands are pretty popular. However, I could not find any slider reviews specifically for the 250 anywhere.

I contacted T-Rex with a ton of questions about the quality, build, design, etc. and their customer service is great (Thanks Tom!). So I decided to try a set out. I also ordered a set of rear plastic T-Rex spools for $12.50.

Items arrived within 3 days and parts are solid and fitment is dead-on. Since the install is very similar to the other sliders on the market, I’ll cover the basics and any additional tips on how the install went.
If you think about you would rather have the frame slider lower so it would prevent anything else from contacting the ground....

no matter what type of frame slider mount you have the oem foot pegs,shifter and brake pedal will get damaged from a tip over....unless you get aftermarket rearsets with fixed foot pegs.

even with my shogun frame sliders my shogun barends sliders still got a little rash from a tipover, and my old pazzos got like a really minute ding in it.
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Old October 3rd, 2011, 07:52 AM   #14
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Good point, but I now have A&L rearset adjusters and the frame sliders are just to minimize any potential damage. Nothing is guaranteed and then there are those who will be totally against sliders all together. I think the T-Rex kit is a great option to have if you want multiple mounting points and higher positioned sliders.
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Old October 4th, 2011, 09:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonboy View Post
6. Right side bracket install. Since the engine bolt is already removed, remove the top bolt (D – Red Circle).
7. Install flat plate and bracket with aluminum spacer.
8. Install long engine frame bolt. Torque setting is 35 lb.

Tip: Temporarily install slider bolt to keep the flat plate and bracket aligned.
How the hell do you remove bold "D"?
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Old October 4th, 2011, 09:30 AM   #16
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There's a nut in the back. I think it's 14mm so you'll need an open ended wrench to hold it while you remove the bolt. Hope this helps.

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How the hell do you remove bold "D"?
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Old October 4th, 2011, 10:20 AM   #17
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So did you use a socket on the other side? I'm just having and awful time finding a way to get some leverage to remove that bolt.
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Old October 4th, 2011, 12:44 PM   #18
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Yep, socket set. Don't recall if I used an extension but if it's on there good keep trying it'll come off.
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Old October 5th, 2011, 04:54 PM   #19
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I finally got that bolt off today. In the process of removing said bolt, I broke a socket extension, socket adapter, and the SOCKET itself!!! Thats right, the socket itself split right down the side. Needless to say, me and my dad were shocked. Luckily, all the parts were Craftsman, so they were replaced for free. So today I borrowed my neighbor's breaker bar and the sucker popped right off.
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Old October 5th, 2011, 05:11 PM   #20
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Awesome!!! Must have been over zealous with the torque wrench at the factory.
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 07:47 PM   #21
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I bought the T-Rex sliders and rear stand w/ spools after checking out this DIY. The shipping only took 2 days! Granted, they were only going from Dallas to San Antonio, and I being in state I had to pay tax. Initial impression is that everything is made from high quality parts and very sturdy

I got the 10mm black aluminum spools and gold galvanized rear stand. The spools screwed in perfectly, and the stand was easy to put together and works great.

I used both this DIY (thanks for the pics!) and the included instructions to help me with the slider installation. Everything went smoothly up until step 10, but I'll get to that in a moment. One thing I noted is that I would not have been able to remove the engine bolt without using a jack and piece of wood to support the engine.

I was literally putting the fairings back on after having installing the brackets before I noticed that the left slider bolt would not screw in to the bracket correctly. Apparently the threads are screwed up in the bracket, because after 20 minutes of trying both bolts and from both sides of the bracket I can't get them to go more than a turn or two into the bracket

I kinda wish I had played around with the parts before hand and noticed the threading issue before I had my bike torn apart, but there's nothing I can do about it now except wait for Monday to call T-Rex and get them to send a replacement bracket.
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 09:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollo626 View Post
I was literally putting the fairings back on after having installing the brackets before I noticed that the left slider bolt would not screw in to the bracket correctly. Apparently the threads are screwed up in the bracket, because after 20 minutes of trying both bolts and from both sides of the bracket I can't get them to go more than a turn or two into the bracket

.
take the bracket to a local machine shop, and see if they can chase the threaded hole with a tap,

or go to your local hardware store get the correct tap and re thread that hole your self, unless of course it's completely messed up, then a new bracket will be required for sure
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Old October 23rd, 2011, 01:34 AM   #23
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Sorry to hear about your bracket. Their customer service is very responsive and I'm sure they will help resolve the problem. Good luck and I'm glad that my DIY was helpful.
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Old October 23rd, 2011, 07:29 AM   #24
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I've been checking that site every so often. I'm definitely going to order my framesliders and spools from them.
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Old October 25th, 2011, 04:32 PM   #25
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Do the t rex kawasaki bar ends fit a 250?
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Old January 24th, 2012, 12:48 PM   #26
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I didn't get the barends, but as long as they're 10mm they should fit fine. Make sure you also get the plastic rear spools. Very beefy and they look awesome, and best of all only $12.50.

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Do the t rex kawasaki bar ends fit a 250?
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Old January 24th, 2012, 03:53 PM   #27
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Do these frame sliders get in the way of rejetting and carb/air box tinkering?
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Old January 24th, 2012, 04:00 PM   #28
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Not that I'm aware of. The slider mounting points are towards the front near the radiator. I shimmed my bike without any probs w/sliders installed.

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Do these frame sliders get in the way of rejetting and carb/air box tinkering?
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Old January 24th, 2012, 09:42 PM   #29
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Not that I'm aware of. The slider mounting points are towards the front near the radiator. I shimmed my bike without any probs w/sliders installed.
Alright thanks. I'm thinking of getting these sliders.
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 09:52 PM   #30
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Just installed these sliders and spoolers. Very impressed by the build quality but not so much with the instructions from T-Rex. Luckily we have this DIY.

The hardest part for me was removing the long 10mm bolt. I ended up hammering the new bolt which pushed the OEM bolt out. And even then when it got to the other end the Engine dropped slightly (despite the fact that I had a a jack underneath) and it took some effort to get it all the way out. If you're going to do this careful not to bust the radiator hose.

Thanks for the DIY
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 10:49 PM   #31
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Can anyone post a frontal shot of the bike with the sliders? I'm looking to see how far they protrude out from the fairings and everything else.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 10:26 AM   #32
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I got some of their spools when I bought a stand and I somehow ended up stripping the threads with the spool screw. But they of course screwed into my friends bike no problem...
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Old May 29th, 2012, 02:23 AM   #33
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dragonboy,

I'm from Kuching Malaysia.

Thanks for the write up and recommendation.

I ordered 1 set from T-Rex and get it installed, pretty satisfied with the quality.

Attached a few pics after install plus photo of radiator cover and engine cover, hugger

Just the printing of the wording on the slider had been replace with sticker.

s04.jpg s05.jpg s06.jpg s08.jpg h03.jpg IMG_1293.jpg
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Old May 29th, 2012, 01:03 PM   #34
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Awesome! I really like your radiator cover. I hate seeing the tiny header pipes and it covers it up quite nicely. How much was that thing?

BTW, keep an eye out for my next DIY. Pretty cool.



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dragonboy,

I'm from Kuching Malaysia.

Thanks for the write up and recommendation.

I ordered 1 set from T-Rex and get it installed, pretty satisfied with the quality.

Attached a few pics after install plus photo of radiator cover and engine cover, hugger

Just the printing of the wording on the slider had been replace with sticker.

Attachment 18794 Attachment 18795 Attachment 18796 Attachment 18797 Attachment 18798 Attachment 18799
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Old May 29th, 2012, 10:39 PM   #35
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Bro,

The 2 covers cost me RM 290 like 98 USD.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonboy View Post
Awesome! I really like your radiator cover. I hate seeing the tiny header pipes and it covers it up quite nicely. How much was that thing?

BTW, keep an eye out for my next DIY. Pretty cool.
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Old June 6th, 2012, 04:15 PM   #36
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Cool, I prefer the lower one and it makes a big visual difference. BTW, I just posted a DIY on installing the new T-Rex exhaust slider here.

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Bro,

The 2 covers cost me RM 290 like 98 USD.
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Old July 3rd, 2012, 03:54 PM   #37
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This may sound like a stupid questions, but how did you guys remove the engine bolt? I tried to remove it but couldn't because of the hose from the radiator. I didn't feel like removing the hose and having to deal with flushing the coolant and etc. I feel like I'm missing something here.
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Old July 3rd, 2012, 04:15 PM   #38
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Good question, I used a socket extension and pushed the hose aside to remove the bolt. Do not drain or remove the hose. Also don't worry about pinching it. It's rubber and will bounce back.

Hope this helps.


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Originally Posted by tony7kp View Post
This may sound like a stupid questions, but how did ynotes on account we wld waive upgrade fee again I am Lauraou guys remove the engine bolt? I tried to remove it but couldn't because of the hose from the radiator. I didn't feel like removing the hose and having to deal with flushing the coolant and etc. I feel like I'm missing something here.
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Old July 3rd, 2012, 04:25 PM   #39
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Did the bolt slide out fairly easy for you? I had to fight mine to even move. Is that normal? I'm wondering if I didn't jack the engine enough to the point where the engine weight was pushing down on the bolt. Or is that normal?
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Old July 3rd, 2012, 05:05 PM   #40
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Yes, keep lifting but it gets hairy if you're balancing on just the rear stand and a floor jack under the oil pan. Also, remember to place a piece of wood or something between the jack and underbelly. Probably overkill but didn't want to scratch anything.

It's next to impossible to remove that bolt without lifting up/supporting engine. Take your time and it will come out.

Check the how-to again to make sure you didn't miss any steps.

JT

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony7kp View Post
Did the bolt slide out fairly easy for you? I had to fight mine to even move. Is that normal? I'm wondering if I didn't jack the engine enough to the point where the engine weight was pushing down on the bolt. Or is that normal?
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