DIY- Let's Get Nekkid!!!

[kkim]

So much is covered up by that sexy body dressing, but you need to get under it to really get down to business...

Here's how... start with taking off the side covers. A #3 phillips works best, as a #2 will fark up the screw... ask me how I know.


Once the covers are off, you will need to remove the allens around the lower fairing perimeter. There are 2 sizes of allens.. two larger sizes on the back half and 4 smaller ones with plastic washers on the front end of the fairing. Remember which ones use the plastic washers.




On the bottom of the fairings where they come together, they use a plastic type rivet to hold the fairing halves together. There are 3 total... one in the front and 2 underneath. To remove, use a flat blade to pop out the middle section and then remove the rivets from the holes.


On the inside front of each fairing is a black plastic piece being held on by two plastic rivets on each side. These work by pushing the center pin in till it clicks... about 1/4", then remove the rivets.



One last allen to remove. It is located in the middle of the plastic tunnel looking thing in the center of this picture. It's the same size as the smaller allens from the fairing, but it has no plastic washer.

[kkim]

At this point, all of the fasteners should be removed and the fairing is only being held on by tabs along the topside between the black plastic piece for the console and the fairing. You need to kind of slide it out and forward to get the fairing to separate. Easy does it as the plastic is brittle here.


Once you get the fairing to separate, you need to unhook the blinker harness. I support the bottom edge of the fairing with my foot as I depress the connector tab to separate the connector. For some reason, this little connector can be a real SOB to come apart, sometimes.


The tab to release the connector is next to my thumb in this pic.


Some pics of the right fairing with the allens removed from the bodywork.




Once you have both fairings off, you should be left with a bike ready to be worked on... and this is what she looks like nekkid...



Installation is the reverse.. duh! To keep things organized, I usually group things as I take them off so when it's time to go back on, the parts are in the same place. Hope this helps all of you to feel more comfortable about how to undress your bike.





some additional photos on how to remove the bottom fairing fasteners...

[VeX]

You're the bestest kkim!

This is reminding me of poker rules btw...

I see your "Putting a bike on the stands" and raise you a "Adjusting valve lash" thread!

[kkim]

Originally Posted by VeX

You're the bestest kkim!

This is reminding me of poker rules btw...

I see your "Putting a bike on the stands" and raise you a "Adjusting valve lash" thread!

The good thing is that everyone here is the winner by hitting the jackpot.


Thanks for sharing your DIYs, too.

[Sailariel]

Kelly, Your DIY`s are better than a Shop Manual. When I get my new computer, I will put them all on a CD. I still plan to buy a shop manual--not an Ebay pirate copy. I think that copying someone else`s work and selling it is wrong.

[kkim]

Glad to be of help, Alex.

Sometimes reading about it in the service manual just doesn't give you the full effect on what needs to be done. I try to supplement the manual with picture DIYs so people can visualize the task at hand.

Between Vex and myself, you ain't seen nothin' yet... hope to contribute more DIYs soon.

[Sailariel]

Kelly, You guys could publish a 250R DVD Shop Manual Supplement.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by Alex Allmayer Beck

Kelly, You guys could publish a 250R DVD Shop Manual Supplement.

lol... Alex, we are just trying to make working on the bikes a little easier by sharing what we have learned to fellow 250 owners. I always find pictures help a lot to supplement words if you're not right there doing it.

I contribute because I feel a need to give back, in some small way, to the people who have graciously helped me in the past.

I'm a firm believer of "Paying it Forward".

[Trozza]

Just a follow on from kkim's post, for removing upper fairings and replacing a globe in the gauge cluster.

** images can be clicked to open higher quality version.

Remove the screws circled. One on each side. These two screws are the reason why you need to follow kkim's method first.. For some reason they decided to make it difficult to remove the front fairing. I guess so they can charge more on labour.


at the front


at the front towards the bottom, although these two should have already been removed when you followed kkim's method.


Under the upper fairing, there are I believe 4 plastic rivets, to remove you just use the end of a screw driver or something small and push the centre of the rivet in. The rivet should now come away when pulled.


Remove these two screws while supporting the upper fairing, might be easier to get a second person to hang on to it, although I managed to do it myself with a bit of twisting. The fairing should now be loose to come away.


You should be able to pull the upper fairing with windscreen/mirrors/headlight attached together, forward a few cms'. You then reach in behind the fairing and unplug the headlight cables. If you just wingle them back and forward they should come out. One closest to the camera is plugged in, and further unplugged to demonstrate what the plug looks like under the plastic.


and thats it for removing the upper fairing.


-----

Now for replacing the broken globe


this is the globe

Drove over to kawasaki parts store and they gave it to me for free. Recommend them.. Pro Kawasaki Nerang store on the gold coast, qld, australia.

Here is the back of the gauge cluster. You don't need to remove the cluster to access the bulbs.


The rubber grommets each represent a globe, you can generally gauge which globe is for what by looking at the front and then at the back and lining them up.. The speedo is the one circled. I just used a pair of pliers and twisted back and forward while pulling and the grommet popped out.

Pull the bulb out, can just use fingers... replace it, and turn the ignition on to check that it all works.


Success for me and if everything works for you, you can put it all back together in reverse.

Hope it helps someone else.

[Sound Wave]

Originally Posted by kkim

On the inside front of each fairing is a black plastic piece being held on by two plastic rivets on each side. These work by pushing the center pin in till it clicks... about 1/4", then remove the rivets.

this may seem like common sense, but it took me a while to figure out...

when you need to put these "rivets" back on: from the back side of the rivet, push the center pin back past the outer ring. position the rivet in the hole and push the center pin flush with the outer ring of the rivet until it clicks into place.

[kkim]

what cha doin', Gary??

[Sound Wave]

oh, no. hehe. that is from when i shimmed my needles.

i was trying to push the rivet in the hole, reach behind the fairing, and tried to push the tab flush that way..... doesn't work. i figured it had to be something really simple.

[kbryant]

Kelly - props for all your DIY(s). Putting a series of "remove & replace" type operations down in pictures and writing is sometimes taken for granted. You really convey them in excellent form. Especially for someone who lives in paradise!

[kkim]

Kerry,

Thanks for the kind words... especially coming from a man in your position.

I'll take that as a compliment... even if I do live in paradise.

I'd like to also take this time to say "thank you" to you for all you do to support our small band of 250 riders with outstanding products from your shop. It's always nice when there are great companies like yours that provide support for niche bikes.

Any thoughts of perhaps developing an exhaust system for the pre 08 bikes?

[kbryant]

My pleasure.

I have thought about doing a full system for the pre-'08 models for awhile now. From 1980 - 1993, I ran a company called SuperTrapp/Kerker. In the Kerker division, we sold Slip-Ons for the older model 250. If there is interest, I would love to R&D a full system for one. We can do so much better than dual Slip-Ons, while gaining much more power and lighter weight with a 2-1 design. Someone nearby in SoCal would need to provide a bike for a few weeks. And of course they would get the first production system for free.

[kkim]

Wow... we need to get this offer out in the general forum.

Oh, Alexx!!!!!

Thanks, Kerry!

[Syphen]

Originally Posted by kbryant

My pleasure.

I have thought about doing a full system for the pre-'08 models for awhile now. From 1980 - 1993, I ran a company called SuperTrapp/Kerker. In the Kerker division, we sold Slip-Ons for the older model 250. If there is interest, I would love to R&D a full system for one. We can do so much better than dual Slip-Ons, while gaining much more power and lighter weight with a 2-1 design. Someone nearby in SoCal would need to provide a bike for a few weeks. And of course they would get the first production system for free.

No way, I had a Kerker on my 1991 CBR600F2 for a while. Was a nice pipe.

[mychelle]

Loads of help using this today!

[sharkie308]

Nvm

[backinthesaddleagain]

Just when I can't figure out why my fairing isn't coming off I remember Kelly did a DIY, I see why and my day is simplified. Thanks KKim.

[kkim]

lol... and which fastener did you forget?

[backinthesaddleagain]

Originally Posted by kkim

lol... and which fastener did you forget?

The one in front in that black tunnel.