AreaP quiet core SS Exhaust Install

First, you don't need to have the bike on stands, but you do need to take off at least the right fairing to complete the install. I took everything off to better take pics for this DIY.

I followed the service manual to remove the exhaust, so I'll just use their instructions...

Remove- muffler cover bolts, muffler cover clamp bolt muffler cover. loosen the muffler clamp bolt (10mm). Remove the muffler mounting bolt (14mm) and remove muffler.

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Stock can in comparison with the areaP "long" can... looks to be about the same length.

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Next... remove exhaust pipe holder nuts (12mm).

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Remove the nut at the bottom of the exhaust next to the footpeg.

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Pull the exhaust pipe towards the front and remove it.

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Once off, some comparisons of the systems...

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At this point I weighed the pieces.

stock header- 4lbs
stock muffler- 10lbs

ap header- 3lbs
ap muffler- 5.5lbs

net savings of the areaP stainless steel "quiet core" exhaust system over the stock system - 5.5 lbs
:)

Next comes the install of the AP.

To install the AP system, I reused the stock exhaust gaskets and moved them to the AP header. I then loosely fit the header onto the engine and put a couple of nuts on to hold it in place.

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Next was loosely fitting the muffler onto the header pipe and hanging it from the original muffler bracket mounting hole. As you can see in the rear photo, the system needs to be adjusted into position.

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By moving and twisting things to better line up, I got the muffler into position, but had a brake line holder clearance problem as shown in this pic. A quick whack with a hammer on a wooden block "adjusted" the brake line holder enough to move it out of the way for the muffler. AP's instructions warn you that brake line clearance might be a problem and shows you how well they know their product. :)

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Now that things were pretty much lined up , I started from front to back, again as stated in the instructions, to tighten things to spec. I tightened the exhaust flange nuts to 105 inch/pounds. I repeat INCH pounds... not foot pounds.

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Once I had the front tight, I could fine position the muffler and muffler/header clamp to position the muffler as close as I dared to the swingarm so it wouldn't touch while riding. The following photos show how close the exhaust runs to the engine, but does not touch... a testament to the quality of work AP puts into their products.

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And this is the exhaust all tightened up and aligned as well as I could get it. If it proves to be a problem I can always go back to fine tune things a bit.

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Okay... I know the question you've all been waiting to ask.... what does it sound like? Well, upon start up I thought it was loud, but after awhile it grows on you. :)It's not race bike loud, but it's louder than stock. What I do like about it is the low mellow tone of the exhaust at idle. Rev it up and the tone gets clearer and more raspy, but in all I really like it. I have not ridden the bike yet... that will come later this weekend, but to satisfy all you curious people, I made a short vid of it at start up. Ignore the troll twisting the throttle. :p The vid does not do the exhaust justice in low tone rumble and mellowness. Just for reference, the highest the bike was reved in the vid was 8K and it was fully warmed up before I shot the vid, so I'm not pounding a cold engine.

Enjoy...

lUFVYi7v51U


Some follow up notes-

Some background of my bike's setup. One washer under each needle. Snorkel is still in place. I will be doing things in stages to better understand what each mod does along the way.

After I get a good feel for the bike as it is now configured, I plan to add a total of 3 washers under each needle to see what that does. I will remove the snorkel at some point to see what effect that has. Last, I will be jetting with a Factory Pro jet kit for bikes with stock airboxes as I plan to keep the airbox and run w/o the snorkel when all is said and done.

I'll post as things evolve.

I got to ride the bike today (finally :rolleyes:) and the first thing I noticed was how smooth the power builds. For reference, I have one washer under each needle and the snorkel was reinstalled after I decided the bike was too lean with it out as jetted and the power delivery got "jerky". (please, no comments about it matching he owner)

There is now more/smoother power down lower in the rev range and I am able to use low rpms (3k) in 6th and the bike will now pull cleanly when throttle is given gently. Around/in town usability is improved.

In the twisties, the midrange feels stronger, but the top end is not as clean as it was when I had the snorkel out with the stock exhaust.

What I like so far is how much smoother the power delivery is from idle to redline. The top tapers off, but hopefully pulling the snorkel will bring back the top end.

The bike is still lean on very small throttle openings and will backfire coming downhill when you have the throttle barely cracked.... rumble, rumble, pop! :)

Sound level is up. When riding, low rpms seem to make the most noise as the bike has a low, rumbling sound now. As the rpms climb, you can still hear the exhaust, but it's not that much louder than stock. Cruising at 60 mph was not distracting and seemed only a small amount louder than crusing with the stock system.

Next, I'll pull out the snorkel and see if that leans it out too much again. I'm hoping the top end will improve with the snorkel out and I'll gain back that clear top end that I had with the stock system w/ it out. After that, I'll be putting a few more shims under the needles to see how much improvement that makes. The last step for me will be installing a Factory Pro jet kit and adjusting the idle screws. ahhh... fun times ahead. :mad:

No matter what, opening up the mixture screws is a must no matter if you go with a jet kit or shim the needles. The low end is just too lean delivered from the factory.

Do yourselves a favor and at the very least shim the needles and adjust the mixture screws if you do nothing else. The bike will be much more rider friendly as a result.

I like the areaP "quiet core" exhaust system and can live with the sound level it produces. I think it will be a great platform on which to build and jet accordingly.

More comments

Prior to the AP install, I was running with the snorkel out w/ 1 washer under each needle. The bike had more top end than with the snorkel in, but the power delivery was "jerky". Some hesitation at the low end and some lean indications between 3k-6k. From there on up, the bike pulled cleanly with a bit more authority and the power curve seemed to pull better up around redline. I interpreted that to mean the main jet works well with the snorkel removed, but the low and mid range suffered a bit.

Just before installing the AP, I put the snorkel back in, then installed the exhaust. The result was a smoother power curve from low into mid, but the high end seem to "flatten" out and not pull cleanly in the higher rpms. There may be more top end with the AP presently, but it doesn't have the same feel as the stock exhaust with the snorkel out. My confirmation will be running the bike with no snorkel next. I pulled the snorkel out last night, but have yet to ride the bike.

Mind you, I'm not saying the AP doesn't add power. The bike runs a lot better with the exhaust change and though the top end is not what I was expecting, I'm sure the next step w/o the snorkel will bring improvements. The AP has really highlighted the need for the mixtures screws needing adjustment with the small throttle "pops".

Will post results when I test w/ AP w/o the snorkel.

Hope this helps.
:)

Hey Kelly,

Didn't want to read all through 17 pages of your other cloned thread on kawiforums. So I am going to take a gamble that you haven't answered these questions.

1) Regarding this quote:
"I tightened the exhaust flange nuts to 105 inch/pounds. I repeat INCH pounds... not foot pounds."

Why do you have to torque these nuts. I was told by my cousin (he is an aviator mechanic for the Navy) that I can just hand tighten the headers onto the engine. He says that when tightening nuts/bolts inside the engine you must torque them to spec, but externals you do not.

Granted he is more mechanically savvy than I am is he right? What does your experience say?


2)Regarding this quote:
"By moving and twisting things to better line up, I got the muffler into position, but had a brake line holder clearance problem as shown in this pic. A quick whack with a hammer on a wooden block "adjusted" the brake line holder enough to move it out of the way for the muffler. AP's instructions warn you that brake line clearance might be a problem and shows you how well they know their product. "

I am confused by the following picture after this quote. I do not see how the brake line holder was in the way of the muffler. I am assuming that black metal hook that holds that brake line is the "brake line holder" in that pic. Can you please elaborate more on this.

3) I thought you had installed a K&N air filter.


The reason I am asking all these question is I am expecting my muffler from AP to be at my doorstep tomorrow. :D

Jordan

1. Yikes!! Remind me never to ride in any plane your cousin has worked on. :eek: He can't be serious, can he?

There are proper/recommended torque values for pretty much any fastener made. In the case of the exhaust nuts, proper torque is used to insure the crush washers/gaskets, which are used on the exhaust flange, get properly seated to avoid leaks. A leaking gasket there can lead to a lean/hot condition which can end up burning an exhaust valve, if bad enough.

As good general practice, I use a torque wrench whenever I can to insure proper tightness of a fastener.

2. If you look closely at the picture the brake line bracket sits right below the can. When you ride the bike, the swingarm (which the bracket is attached to) will move up and down as the suspension compresses and rebounds. If left as is, the bracket would have been sent straight up into the back side of the can.

3. This DIY was done before the airbox delete mod. :)

I think you will be very happy with the quality of the AP products. I know I've been.

post pics once you're done.
:D

Okay thanks. Well I found this ancient inch pound torque wrench that my dad had lying around :ohwell: hopefully it is still calibrated.

Well looks like its gonna be a busy weekend for me. My agenda is to install this exhaust, remove the factory air box and install the K&N air pods. Weeee:runaway3: this should be fun.

Won't get to the jets because my kit won't come in till Tuesday.:rant: You think it would be okay to do a couple runs without re-jetting? Or will I burn the valves?

Okay thanks. Well I found this ancient inch pound torque wrench that my dad had lying around :ohwell: hopefully it is still calibrated.

Well looks like its gonna be a busy weekend for me. My agenda is to install this exhaust, remove the factory air box and install the K&N air pods. Weeee:runaway3: this should be fun.

Won't get to the jets because my kit won't come in till Tuesday.:rant: You think it would be okay to do a couple runs without re-jetting? Or will I burn the valves?

I know when Vex first pulled his airbox, the bike just would run w/ the stock jetting. Exactly which airfilter are you using? The mains need to be upped from the 98Ks they are now to at least a 110K.

I wouldn't run the bike, if I were you. There was poster on another forum who yanked the airbox and switched to pods and used a dynojet 100 main. He eventually fried his engine and it was not covered under warranty. i caution yo, know what you are doing before you proceed. If all is correct, the bike will run great. If you just throw stuff on for the sake of doing so, you run the chance of seriously damaging your engine.

Check out the Jetting Database in the DIY sticky to get some idea of where you should be for a rough starting point on jetting. Even with your jetting kit, it will not contain main jets big enough to handle a no airbox setup. To save you disappointment before the jet kit comes in, I caution you, you will need to purchase larger main jets separately no matter which kit you purchased. Maybe Vex can confirm this or not.

BTW, which brand did you purchase?

I know when Vex first pulled his airbox, the bike just would run w/ the stock jetting. Exactly which airfilter are you using? The mains need to be upped from the 98Ks they are now to at least a 110K.

I wouldn't run the bike, if I were you. There was poster on another forum who yanked the airbox and switched to pods and used a dynojet 100 main. He eventually fried his engine and it was not covered under warranty. i caution yo, know what you are doing before you proceed. If all is correct, the bike will run great. If you just throw stuff on for the sake of doing so, you run the chance of seriously damaging your engine.

Check out the Jetting Database in the DIY sticky to get some idea of where you should be for a rough starting point on jetting. Even with your jetting kit, it will not contain main jets big enough to handle a no airbox setup. To save you disappointment before the jet kit comes in, I caution you, you will need to purchase larger main jets separately no matter which kit you purchased. Maybe Vex can confirm this or not.

BTW, which brand did you purchase?

The air filter I purchased is the K&N part# R-0990. Was gonna follow Vex's DIY for this mod. Had this filter for about a month now, just waiting till I could get my exhaust and jet kit in before I installed it.

Ouch! That is exactly what I am afraid of. Was that guy able to get his bike up and running again?

I purchased a Factory Pro jet kit. Just because you have one :D. No but really I read from the Ninja wiki website that Factory Pro was the recommended brand. The part# that I bought was CRB-K04-3.0 (When you desire to use individual air filters and remove the airbox). I am pretty sure that Factory Pro knows their stuff, so I hoping that this 3.0 kit would include the larger jets that I need.

I know that you did your mods little by little, which makes sense. But the final setup that I want is a K&N filter, AP exhaust and the 3.0 jet kit. All 3 mods are to work together. In your experience do you think installing all three at one time is bad?

To properly tune my jets I was planning on following this:http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
Yea, I've been looking at the database and hopefully I'll be adding to that soon.

Thanks for your concern.:thumbup:

The air filter I purchased is the K&N part# R-0990. Was gonna follow Vex's DIY for this mod. Had this filter for about a month now, just waiting till I could get my exhaust and jet kit in before I installed it.

Ouch! That is exactly what I am afraid of. Was that guy able to get his bike up and running again?

I purchased a Factory Pro jet kit. Just because you have one :D. No but really I read from the Ninja wiki website that Factory Pro was the recommended brand. The part# that I bought was CRB-K04-3.0 (When you desire to use individual air filters and remove the airbox). I am pretty sure that Factory Pro knows their stuff, so I hoping that this 3.0 kit would include the larger jets that I need.

I know that you did your mods little by little, which makes sense. But the final setup that I want is a K&N filter, AP exhaust and the 3.0 jet kit. All 3 mods are to work together. In your experience do you think installing all three at one time is bad?

To properly tune my jets I was planning on following this:http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
Yea, I've been looking at the database and hopefully I'll be adding to that soon.

Thanks for your concern.:thumbup:

the guy who lunched his engine is selling his bike piece by piece in the classifieds. :(

warranty didn't cover his FU because it was due to his own negligence, which is why I advise you to proceed with caution till you understand how all this all needs to fit together first, before you begin.

You will need to ask Vex exactly what jets came in his kit. Mine was for the pregens, which is the same except for the selection of mains. The no airbox FP kit may indeed contain the jets you need.

I think you'll be okay doing it all at once... just don't be in a rush and don't give in to the temptation to shortcut things. I did mine a step at a time cause at the time, no one knew what worked and what didn't. Now that a few have done this, you can use the info that has been gathered as your base to start with.

Well, I finally got the full AP exhaust installed. Don't have pics and the moment but I am Le tired. Gonna get some zzzzzzzs soon. Man... it was fun putting it on but took me a good 4 hours. I know, I know, thats a long time but I went really slow and had a couple of hiccups here and there. But I managed.:D Besides it was my first time ever fiddling with mechanics. My dad only taught me about maintaining the yard and landscaping and never about mechanics. So I am still learning the ropes.

Things to note though, I torqued the exhaust flange nuts (headers to engine) to 105 inch pounds, but the service manual says to torque it to 104 inch pounds. Figured Kelly knew something that I didn't so I added the extra inch.:idunno:

Wanted to start it up to see what it sounds like and check for leaks but its midnight and wasn't expecting my project to take so long. I'll probably get to the jets on Tuesdays and hopefully the air box this following weekend. I hate how projects take longer than expected.:mad:

Officially signing off and...:drinkingbeer:then :drunk1:

lol... have a good one... or two, man. :cheers:

Well I started it up this morning. It's loud for me but I guess I've been used to the stock can for over 2200 miles. Doesn't seem to be leaking from the headers but I feel heat from the headers (could be mistaking that for air). Only saw white smoke come out from the rear of the muffler, so I think I am good.

The only problem is that the idle. As if the carbs were out of sync. It was in sync with the stock can, but now its idling weird. Maybe the engine was still cold, but didn't want to risk it so I turned it off. Any thoughts on this? Maybe when I get to the jets this won't be much of a problem.

Kelly, I noticed you have your sticker off your muffler. Did you just peel it off, or did you use like a dryer?

define "idling weird". what rpm do you have it set?

I peeled the sticker off carefully by hand then cleaned up whatever adhesive residue (very little) was left with some goo gone. I don't like advertising to the LEOs that it's an aftermarket exhaust.

Currently I have the idle RPM set to 1500 rpm while the bike is fully warmed up. I'll try my best to describe the idle, but typing out this problem doesn't do it justice.

When the bike is idling, it idles normal for a couple cycles then it seems to skips a beat and sounds lower than normal then goes back up to idling normal again. When it sounds like it goes down, the tachometer indicates a little bump up to 1600 rpm. When it sounds normal it the tachometer indicates it at 1500 rpm This is a repetitive cycle that doesn't end, nor sounds normal.

The cycle is like this:
1= 1500 rpm
0= 1600 rpm

11111100011111111100011111111110000111111111

something like this.

yeah, if it's a rhythmic, repetitive pattern, carbs may need syncing. Does the pattern change (increase or decrease) in speed as you slowly rev higher?? ie: 3k?

when I first got my bike, one of the first things I did was check the sync and it was off from the factory. :ohwell:

for now, finalize your jetting then worry about syncing, but I have read where you should sync the carbs before you adjust the mixture screws, which should be the last step when jetting.

Vex cautioned me that his exhaust flange nuts were loose when he checked them sometime back and when I went to check them today, sure enough, 2 nuts were a bit loose on one of the pipes. Not so much that the exhaust was leaking, but surely looser than when I had installed the exhaust about 8 months ago.

Morale of the story, check the exhaust flange nuts for tightness on occasion.

good thing you bumped this up - I'll be using it when I win the raffle ;)

Good write up! Although AreaP's instructions are very good, it helped to look at your pictures before starting :thumbup:

Did you add any spacers onto the muffler support where it attaches to the passenger foot peg?

I don't think so. You having a problem lining things up?

I think the rubber/stainless steel holder for the muffler is touching the swing arm and very close to the rear brake line. I'll have to take a closer look tomorrow.

did you read this part of the DIY? is this what is giving you problems?

By moving and twisting things to better line up, I got the muffler into position, but had a brake line holder clearance problem as shown in this pic. A quick whack with a hammer on a wooden block "adjusted" the brake line holder enough to move it out of the way for the muffler. AP's instructions warn you that brake line clearance might be a problem and shows you how well they know their product.

http://www.kawiforums.com/gallery/data/543/medium/DSC04289-1.JPG

Nope, must have read right over that.

Yeah, I think thats the problem. I had been awake for 24 hours and decided to call it quits at this point. If thats whats touching, I will "adjust" mine similarly. :D

Kerry from AreaP has just posted up a nice offer for ninjette.org members, here's a link (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=26636) to that thread. Free exhaust hangar, free D.E.I, and free shipping with any exhaust order for the '08+ ninjette; saves about $100. :thumbup:

Is it ok to re-use the exhaust gaskets? Also, don't you think you should have applied high temp silicon on the gaskets/headers prior to re-installation?

P.S. Inch/lbs., I guess now I have to buy another torque wrench... will this work http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2696?

sigh...

I reused my exhaust gaskets and have not had a problem. If you reuse them and have a leak, then use the hi temp silicone seal or buy some new gaskets like they tell you to do. :D

to convert inch pounds to foot pounds, divide the inch pound measurement by 12.

Oops, maybe I should reloosen the bolts and torque them down properly. It was a PITA though tring to fit my wrench in there and I had to retighten them because I had a visible leak.

I reused my exhaust gaskets and have not had a problem. If you reuse them and have a leak, then use the hi temp silicone seal or buy some new gaskets like they tell you to do. :D

to convert inch pounds to foot pounds, divide the inch pound measurement by 12.

True but that equates to 8.75 feet/lb and my 3/8 torque wrench (got the Harbor Freight one I linked to on my other thread) goes by 0.5 divisions (read: not as accurate).

Yes, I did use my inch/pound, 1/4" drive torque wrench to set the exhaust.

Hmmm, hadn't thought about the gaskets. I'm considering pulling my headers to coat with some VHT paint: the brassy look is getting on my nerves on my otherwise blue/black/silver bike. Guess I should go ahead and order a pair just in case since this bike has about 9500mi with the AreaP on, essentially undisturbed. Won't likely be doing this til spring though.

What is a sign that I have a leak in the exhaust, and how can I check it?

Are you thinking a hole in your headers, a joint or the muffler? One good sign is usually a change in the sound from 'usual'

I'm no aficionado, but a couple ways come to mind that don't involve running your hand down the pipe to feel for the leak. All involve having the bike running with the exhaust on it though.
-listen for it (I've got a dime-sized hole in my truck's midpipe that you can hear from 10 paces)

-hold up a flame along the pipes or something else easily affected by wind (perhaps use a water mister/spray bottle?)

-provided you're quick about it and the pipe's not already hot, could mix up some soap & water to spread on areas of suspicion

Are you thinking a hole in your headers, a joint or the muffler? One good sign is usually a change in the sound from 'usual'

I'm no aficionado, but a couple ways come to mind that don't involve running your hand down the pipe to feel for the leak. All involve having the bike running with the exhaust on it though.
-listen for it (I've got a dime-sized hole in my truck's midpipe that you can hear from 10 paces)

-hold up a flame along the pipes or something else easily affected by wind (perhaps use a water mister/spray bottle?)

-provided you're quick about it and the pipe's not already hot, could mix up some soap & water to spread on areas of suspicion

Thanks. I just installed my exhaust and want to be sure there are no leaks. So I guess the area where the headers are attached to the exhaust pipes, as well as the area where the pipes and muffler meet. My exhaust does not have a gasket at that joint.

Just installed my used SS QuietCore. Very simple... took less than an hour including rolling the bike out into the driveway and gathering my tools.

My only deviation from this DIY was that I didn't bother to remove the stock heat shield or separate the muffler. Just pulled the whole thing off in one go.

It makes sweet dulcet burbling noises... MUCH nicer sounding than stock and not that loud. Sounds like a bigger bike than it is. If it isn't too frakkin' cold tomorrow morning I'll be riding to work with a big smile on my face.

:thumbup:Enjoy...Area-P makes great systems. So glad I went with a 15in Area-P over any other brand. Are you gunna jet or shim?

:thumbup:Enjoy...Area-P makes great systems. So glad I went with a 15in Area-P over any other brand. Are you gunna jet or shim?

Jet, remove snorkel and add K&N.

Nice nice. Make sure to add your jet settings to the data base and let us know what you think. Enjoy!

Hey Kelly,

I know I have said all along I wasn't planing on switching to an aftermarket pipe, but what can I say.... I may be slow to adapt, but I'm starting to get worn down, and am getting "green envy." ;)

From what I can tell, based on my interent research, the pipe you got is what I would want (if I eventually drink the kool-aide that is). However, I CANNOT find the SS quiet core on the Area P webpage. It seems they only have it in carbon (not my thing). Was this model discontinued? I would consider the 12" SS, BUT I really want to keep the noise down, and the power gain/noise increase of the quiet core seems to be the best compromise (at least it looks/sounds like it on youtube). I don't think I would be happy with the 12" after 30 min. of ridding.

Hey Kelly,

I know I have said all along I wasn't planing on switching to an aftermarket pipe, but what can I say.... I may be slow to adapt, but I'm starting to get worn down, and am getting "green envy." ;)

From what I can tell, based on my interent research, the pipe you got is what I would want (if I eventually drink the kool-aide that is). However, I CANNOT find the SS quiet core on the Area P webpage. It seems they only have it in carbon (not my thing). Was this model discontinued? I would consider the 12" SS, BUT I really want to keep the noise down, and the power gain/noise increase of the quiet core seems to be the best compromise (at least it looks/sounds like it on youtube). I don't think I would be happy with the 12" after 30 min. of ridding.

Send Kerry at AreaP an email and ask, he usually get's back to you the same day or the next. If you don't like CF you could always paint it :p

Send Kerry at AreaP an email and ask, he usually get's back to you the same day or the next. If you don't like CF you could always paint it :p

+1 contact Kerry. He's a really good guy.

yep... contact Kerry and discuss w/ him what options are available at this time.

Tell you the truth, as much as I like the SS, I would seriously consider the CF for the fact that it stays relatively cool compared to SS. Had I known about that when I ordered mine, that might have swayed me to the CF.

GL... remember, quiet core all the way. :thumbup:

Tell you the truth, as much as I like the SS, I would seriously consider the CF for the fact that it stays relatively cool compared to SS. Had I known about that when I ordered mine, that might have swayed me to the CF.


Have you had any heat issues? Does it run a little hotter than stock?

Have you had any heat issues? Does it run a little hotter than stock?

I would think, if anything, the Area P SS would run cooler than stock as it's a less restrictive exhaust, allowing the gases to exit more quickly and transfer less heat. However I suspect it's still flesh-melting hot after a good ride, just like the stock. The CF gets warm, but even after hours on the road I've never gotten burned, even when sticking a bare hand on it to see how hot it was.

http://www.areapnolimits.com/products/Slip-On-Exhaust-Kawasaki-Ninja-250R-2008.php

"Optional Stainless steel muffler is available as well" from that link. As others said you probably have to contact him to special order it now

http://www.areapnolimits.com/products/Slip-On-Exhaust-Kawasaki-Ninja-250R-2008.php

"Optional Stainless steel muffler is available as well" from that link. As others said you probably have to contact him to special order it now

I believe the context of that statement was only referring to the standard length pipe. The paragraph below that describes the quiet-core pipe specifically (emphasis added):
"Optional Long Quiet Muffler - 18" muffler with 1.75" core. Available in Carbon Fiber only. Significantly quieter than the Standard muffler. Overall power is virtually identical to the standard muffler, but with a much lower sound level."

When I get closer to having the cash, I will contact Kerry, as Kelly suggested. Who knows, the longer I get the CF in my head, the more I can get used to it. I just didn't want to style my bike after a 20 year old's tuner. No offense if this is you, or your style... I respect it, it just isn't me.

bob,

i'm with you, as i'm not at all in love with the look of carbon fiber. it does stay quite a bit cooler than stainless, but this is a non-issue to me as i will never be carrying a passenger. essentially, anything is available from area p, whether listed on their site or not. you can customize a system to your heart's content, (can length, materials, end cap style, core diameter, etc.). that being said, i may go stainless and have it powdercoated as i prefer the look of a blacked out exhaust.

just some things to consider.....

bob,

essentially, anything is available from area p, whether listed on their site or not. you can customize a system to your heart's content, (can length, materials, end cap style, core diameter, etc.).
.....

Very good to know, thank you!

Practically speaking, I guess cooler running CF would put my mind at ease a little as my saddle bags hover just above the pipe..... no problems yet, but given the right (or wrong) circumstances, things might get a little toasty.

More things to think about I guess.

Just a quick note that if you have an aftermarket exhaust hanger, you may need to throw a couple of extra washers on the hanger to get clearance between the exhaust and swingarm. I have the Evotech bracket, which is about 1/8-1/16 inch closer to the frame than the stock hanger. This created a rubbing issue requiring an extra 2 washers, for a total of 4. My advice is to buy the Area P exhaust hanger, which solves this problem.

Here are pics of my Evotech hanger and the clearance issue.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk28/gfloyd2002/MotorcycleRepair007.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk28/gfloyd2002/MotorcycleRepair013.jpg

did you try using a hammer and giving it some love taps? perhaps redoing the bracket angles in a vise?

did you try using a hammer and giving it some love taps? perhaps redoing the bracket angles in a vise?

lol. Tempting, but when choosing between a washer and taking a hammer to a brand new custom part, I'll choose the washer unless I'm having a really bad day at work. :)

Real problem is the darn Evotech bracket is really well machined, beautiful and sturdy, making little adjustments difficult. If the the Area P wasn't so well made with such tight tolerances, it wouldn't matter. So I guess my problem is caused by buying too many great aftermarket parts. :p

Just installed my Standard Carbon Fiber Area P exhaust on. I can't say enough thanks to kkim for all the DIYs you've put up. They are all well done with great pictures to help visualize what to do. I can now take off the fairing in my sleep :cool:

I was not prepared for how loud this exhaust would be :D I like it, but now I will definitely have to wear ear plugs while riding. Also thanks to everyone at Area P for a great product and super fast shipping.

Now taking a break (been outside for about 2 hours in 100 degree 90% humidity) for lunch, then on to shimming carbs!

Phil,

remove the snorkel while you're at it, then shim w/ 3 washers on each needle. I think you'll like the results. ;)

don't forget to remove the Kleen system when you get tired of the popping/backfiring during throttle decel. :)

It started raining just as I was about to tackle taking off the gas tank. Had to hurry to get the bike under the car port. Will get on this tomorrow.

I have a question about installation of the quiet core system. Kelly, it looks like you used the exhaust hanger that area p provides. Did it come with two washers to replace the washer from the OEM and if so where did you place them?

Did you put them on the inside of the bike, next to the nut I'm holding in my left hand or does it replace the large ring that the red arrow is pointing to?

I used washers from my parts bin. I don't THINK they come with the AP. I also didn't realize I had the hanger backward at first, so if you are struggling, you may want to flip is just to be sure you have it right. I found getting the can/swing-arm clearance right was the MOST difficult part, so plan on being patient, intentional, and spending most of your time on this part. Also, because the header flanges are bent in a little (by design), you pretty much have to use NEW gaskets. I was very surprised to see how thick they are before they are crushed!

I used washers from my parts bin. I don't THINK they come with the AP. I also didn't realize I had the hanger backward at first, so if you are struggling, you may want to flip is just to be sure you have it right. I found getting the can/swing-arm clearance right was the MOST difficult part, so plan on being patient, intentional, and spending most of your time on this part. Also, because the header flanges are bent in a little (by design), you pretty much have to use NEW gaskets. I was very surprised to see how thick they are before they are crushed!

The exhaust I received came with 2 gaskets to replace the OEM ones as well as two washers for the exhaust body hanger.

The exhaust I received came with 2 gaskets to replace the OEM ones as well as two washers for the exhaust body hanger.

Mine was second hand, opened but unused, so it is possible we lost the washers. I THINK the gaskets were only included from AP within the last year. They added it to their webpage after I got mine last fall. But, for all those buying new, this is certainly great news.

I put this exhaust on my bike. Love it sounds awesome