An informative DIY video I found over youtube. God I need to stay away from that website, cuz once I start going, an hour passes by. ugghhh:mad:

P-5_JbLx2Bw

It's mostly on point, but I would quibble with a few things.

- WD-40 or kerosene work great for chain cleaning, and you don't need to dab a little at a time, rotate, dab some more, rotate. Soak the chain while you're rotating the rear wheel. Then use a rag to wipe off excess on all sides of the chain while you're rotating the rear wheel. Takes 30 seconds.

- no need to lube up both sides of the chain as two separate activities. Like all modern motorcycle chains, this is an o-ring type chain and the lube's main purpose is to keep the o-rings in good shape and perhaps lower the friction the slightest bit where the chain actually meets the sprocket. If you get a light coating on the inside ring, it will pull more than enough chain lube into the chain and through to just about everywhere that needs it.

- While the description of how to measure chain slack was for the most part correct, what the video failed to mention is it's not as important to measure slack while the bike is unloaded on a rear stand. The chain needs that .8" to 1.2" of slack while in operation, under the normal sag of someone sitting on the bike. If you tighten the chain to 1" while on the stand, it's conceivable that the slack will tighten to as little as .5" with some weight on the rear suspension. The slack needs to be confirmed after the bike is off the stand and with a rider onboard. While a moderately loose chain does zero damage and only causes a little driveline lash, an overly tight chain can do significant damage by putting too much pressure on the front sprocket / transmission output shaft. If it's too tight and the rear tire hits a significant jolt in the road, it can cause some expensive repair bills. At full suspension travel, there needs to be enough slack that the output shaft isn't yanked backward with the force of the impact; that's what that measurement is designed to protect against. People new to this process more often than not overtighten a chain. The chain on the ninjette just isn't going to stretch that much to require frequent adjustment.

- The chain adjusting marks on the side of the ninjette's swingarm are completely useless. Depending on the orientation the shop last put them on for a rear tire change, their position changes by a significant amount. While they appear symmetrical, the grooves themselves are actually asymmetrical, so if they are flipped, the grooves no longer mean anything. They cannot be relied on in any way to confirm rear wheel alignment. Two ways that are reliable: 1 - measure from the swingarm pivot to the center of the rear axle on both sides, and 2 - count the threads remaining on the both of the rear axle adjusters to make sure they are identical.

:2cents:

(not to mention it's plugging a website that makes my head hurt. :D)

It's mostly on point, but I would quibble with a few things.

- WD-40 or kerosene work great for chain cleaning, and you don't need to dab a little at a time, rotate, dab some more, rotate. Soak the chain while you're rotating the rear wheel. Then use a rag to wipe off excess on all sides of the chain while you're rotating the rear wheel. Takes 30 seconds.

- no need to lube up both sides of the chain as two separate activities. Like all modern motorcycle chains, this is an o-ring type chain and the lube's main purpose is to keep the o-rings in good shape and perhaps lower the friction the slightest bit where the chain actually meets the sprocket. If you get a light coating on the inside ring, it will pull more than enough chain lube into the chain and through to just about everywhere that needs it.

- While the description of how to measure chain slack was for the most part correct, what the video failed to mention is it's not as important to measure slack while the bike is unloaded on a rear stand. The chain needs that .8" to 1.2" of slack while in operation, under the normal sag of someone sitting on the bike. If you tighten the chain to 1" while on the stand, it's conceivable that the slack will tighten to as little as .5" with some weight on the rear suspension. The slack needs to be confirmed after the bike is off the stand and with a rider onboard. While a moderately loose chain does zero damage and only causes a little driveline lash, an overly tight chain can do significant damage by putting too much pressure on the front sprocket / transmission output shaft. If it's too tight and the rear tire hits a significant jolt in the road, it can cause some expensive repair bills. At full suspension travel, there needs to be enough slack that the output shaft isn't yanked backward with the force of the impact; that's what that measurement is designed to protect against. People new to this process more often than not overtighten a chain. The chain on the ninjette just isn't going to stretch that much.

- The chain adjusting marks on the side of the ninjette's swingarm are completely useless. Depending on the orientation the shop last put them on for a rear tire change, their position changes by a significant amount. While they appear symmetrical, the grooves themselves are actually asymmetrical, so if they are flipped, the grooves no longer mean anything. They cannot be relied on in any way to confirm rear wheel alignment. Two ways that are reliable: 1 - measure from the swingarm pivot to the center of the rear axle on both sides, and 2 - count the threads remaining on the both of the rear axle adjusters to make sure they are identical.

:2cents:

(not to mention it's plugging a website that makes my head hurt. :D)


excellent, right on the money info. give that man a prize!!! :first:

Wow. I just started riding this October and I am still learning new things. Thanks for the info Alex.

But the slack on my chain seemed a little loose and I was trying to get it w/ in factory specs today but the Rear Axle nut won't budge. With the factory tools, the 24 mm wrench plus my whole body weight pushing on it won't turn the nut. Any tips?

The axle nut may have been cranked on pretty hard on first install. The tools from the stock toolkit aren't of the best quality, and don't provide the best leverage. This part of the video seemed on point to me. Remove the cotter pin through the castle nut, then use a large ratchet with a handle at least a foot long to make sure you have enough leverage to loosen the nut. If you find that it is turning, but the entire axle is turning along with it, then you need to hold a wrench on the other side while you're pushing down on the ratchet (in most cases that's not necessary, but it's certainly possible).

If you find that it is turning, but the entire axle is turning along with it, then you need to hold a wrench on the other side while you're pushing down on the ratchet (in most cases that's not necessary, but it's certainly possible).

Usually you can add a pipe to lengthen both wrenches and the ground can support the wrench/pipe on the other side. This is where an air assisted power tool comes in handy.

- The chain adjusting marks on the side of the ninjette's swingarm are completely useless. Depending on the orientation the shop last put them on for a rear tire change, their position changes by a significant amount. While they appear symmetrical, the grooves themselves are actually asymmetrical, so if they are flipped, the grooves no longer mean anything.

Why would Kawasaki even do such a thing? It would have been so much better if they had not put marks on one side of that alignment plate so there would be no way of getting the left and right alignment plates out of sync. :(

I never realized this and never took the time to compare the plates when I had the rear tire off the bike. :mad:

Why would Kawasaki even do such a thing?

There's no rational explanation, I agree.

- The chain adjusting marks on the side of the ninjette's swingarm are completely useless. Depending on the orientation the shop last put them on for a rear tire change, their position changes by a significant amount. While they appear symmetrical, the grooves themselves are actually asymmetrical, so if they are flipped, the grooves no longer mean anything. They cannot be relied on in any way to confirm rear wheel alignment. Two ways that are reliable: 1 - measure from the swingarm pivot to the center of the rear axle on both sides, and 2 - count the threads remaining on the both of the rear axle adjusters to make sure they are identical.



Why would Kawasaki even do such a thing? It would have been so much better if they had not put marks on one side of that alignment plate so there would be no way of getting the left and right alignment plates out of sync. :(

I never realized this and never took the time to compare the plates when I had the rear tire off the bike. :mad:

Whatcha guys talking about? These things:

Whatcha guys talking about? These things:

Yup, those things. The axle doesn't fit tightly in the hole in them, so they can shift a bit fore/aft anyway, and the grooves in the top & bottom of them aren't exactly at the centerpoint of the part.

- The chain adjusting marks on the side of the ninjette's swingarm are completely useless. Depending on the orientation the shop last put them on for a rear tire change, their position changes by a significant amount. While they appear symmetrical, the grooves themselves are actually asymmetrical, so if they are flipped, the grooves no longer mean anything. They cannot be relied on in any way to confirm rear wheel alignment. Two ways that are reliable: 1 - measure from the swingarm pivot to the center of the rear axle on both sides, and 2 - count the threads remaining on the both of the rear axle adjusters to make sure they are identical.


Alex,

When the bike is new, couldn't one mark the adjusting "plate marks" via a punch, prior to removing them? Put one punch mark on the top side of the right and two punch marks on the top side of the left. As long as they are always placed in the same position and orientation, wouldn't they then be correct and provide a realistic measurement?

I think they move too much fore/aft on the axle to be useful, even if you can be assured of the right orientation. It's a crappy design.

It was beautiful today, so I went for an hour and a half ride. Came home and cleaned and waxed (Maxima) the chain.

Alex..thank for the tips on cleaning. Took me a little longer than 30 seconds to clean the chain with mineral spirits. I then used low pressure compressed air and shop rags to dry the chain. Followed the directions on the can for the wax application.

Even gave my "Black Beauty" her first cleaning with warm water and a chamois.

Yes those adjuster are the same they have been using for years. They do not work. I was surprised with all the updates they still use them.


This sounds silly to mention but it is so easy to space and do something crazy.


Word of caution to the noobs (or all). Never clean your chain by wiping down with anything with the rear wheel spinning, other then gently hand turning.

If so, you might only count to 9 after that.

It is old skool to have the dirt bike running and spray lube on it while leaning on stand and letting the tire spin with the engine on. All is good until you space and try to wipe off the extra with a rag. goodbye finger tip. happened to someone I know.:( Safety Chief signing off....

*noob question* How often should you lube your chain and what is the best lube product to use?

Look at the owners manual for the interval, I think it is 400 miles for the '08. Not a good thing to do what I did, went about 1200 miles before I even thought about, chain was filthy, cleaned it real good with WD40. As far as lube, there's a slew of them out there, I am not sure of the brand that I have, it was what the local dealership carried.

hope this helps

nb

edit: mine is Belray

I use Maxima Chain Wax...

http://www.motocorsaitaliano.com/images/MaximaChainWax.gif

Vhe chain upery good advice on cleaning and lubing the chain. I buy WD-40 by the Gallon at Home Depot and get their spray pump as well. I work on bicycles and clean a lot of chains. I like the Maxxima Chain Wax that Kelly showed. The only thing that I do differently is that I use a hair dryer to warm the chain up before applying the chain wax. I continue warming the chain he next morning I take a shop cloth and wipe off any excess. I treat the racing bicycles I work on the same way, and none of my customers has ever experienced a chain related problem.

+1

I go for a 15-20 minute ride and then I use WD-40 and a chain brush to clean the chain. Then I wipe off the WD-40 with shop towels and use some compressed air to blow off any remaining excess. Next I use a heat gun from my soldering bench to warm the chain and then I apply Maxima Chain Wax.

*noob question* How often should you lube your chain and what is the best lube product to use?


I have make another product recommendation here

Wurth HHS 2000

We use it at my job in very harsh conditions and the stuff is amazing. It doesn't gather dust, it wont fly off, It sprays on liquid so it can penetrate then turns into a semi-solid. It is a bit expensive but it goes alooong way. I skip lube intervals with it frequently. Tri-flow is very commonly found in stores but they have a few different products to use. Wurths hhs 2000 is an industrial product you'll have a hard time finding without the internet.

Any one here that uses this stuff knows how precious it is. Great for car door locks in cold climates, door hinges,etc.

It ranges from $10-$25 a can. Its alittle on the steep end but you really get what you pay for.

Read the product description. For those concerned it does say on the back of the can "roller/motorcycle chains".But there are way to many uses to list.

http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wurth-hhs-2000-high-pressure-lubricant.html

Here's a great video on a DIY rear wheel alignment

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Alex could you put this thread in the DIY section

Once someone does one without a video link to newninja as the first post. ;)

Once someone does one without a video link to newninja as the first post. ;)

lol... :lol:

All that work and I forgot my camera again :(

I love videos. That way i can't say well i didn't understand the instructions and "what does that word mean.

I'll try and do one tomorrow! But definitely not using this technique.., it'll be the good old toothbrush method