Oil and oil filter change... about as controversial as politics and religion.

Wanna start a big argument?? Just ask a bunch of bike riders what the best oil there is and a heated "discussion" will ensue. :p

No matter what your views, though, all agree that oil is the lifeblood of a motorcycle engine and even more so in a small, high revving engine as is designed for our bikes.

With that said, my oil change DIY will include references to biases that I have acquired throughout the years, so deal with it if you have a problem. The end result is the same, though... that the oil and filter gets changed on a regular basis.

There have been many oil change DIYs done, but none by a ninjette member, so I felt it was necessary to do one as guide for this site. The best guide that I have found for oil changes for our bikes is right in your owner's manual. If you've never read your owners manual, spend the time to read it cover to cover... it will explain a lot that you may not know about your bike. :)

With that, I'll be using the oil change procedure in the manual as a guide for this DIY (references from the owner's handbook are in bolded print), with inputs and pictures from me when I feel is required.

So.....

keep track of the work you do on your bikes... there is a maintenance log in the back of the owner's manual that I use record oil changes/mileage. At 1913 miles, this is the 5th oil change the bike has seen. I've done oil/filter changes at 53, 297,528,1008 and 1913 miles. Clean oil is crucial to a long lasting engine, especially during it's early life. Use the proper viscosity as outlined in your manual. Most people will use 10w-40.

I raise my bike up on the rear stand for a couple of reasons, but oil changes can be done with the bike on its side stand.

15423

Warm up the engine thoroughly and stop it.
Previously, I had done oil changes after running the bike down the street and back or after a ride. With a water temperature gauge I added a few months back, knowing when the bike is warmed is a snap.

Here are some of the tools you will need to change your oil and filter.

Some oil filter part numbers that will work in the previous gen and new gen bikes. They use the same oil filter.

Amsoil: SMF 101 (No longer available. Replaced by WIX 24941.)
CarQuest: CFI-89941
Emgo: 10-37500 (includes O-rings) 10-20300 (doesn't have O-rings)
Fram: CH6012
Hastings: LF571
Honda: 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024
Kawasaki: 16099-003
K&N: KN-401
NAPA: PS4941 (formerly 4941)
Perf-Form: OF-0047 (formerly J-501)
Purolator: ML16812
STP: SMO-12 (Once readily available, now appears to have been discontinued.)
Triumph: 1210031
Vesrah: SF-4004
WIX: 24941
Yamaha: 36Y-13441-00

15424

Place an oil pan beneath the engine

Remove the oil drain plug 17MM socket/wrench
be careful when you remove the plug that you remove the aluminum crush washer also. the washer will sometimes stick to the engine side. also, be careful as the oil is hot, now, so unscrew the plug while pushing in at the same time. Once the plug is free of the threads, by pushing in while you turn the plug to remove, you prevent the oil from shooting out and you dropping the plug in to the pan. Instead, when the plug is free of the engine case threads, quickly pull the plug out of the way and let the oil pour into the drain pan. Have a rag handy just in case. :p

15425

Let the oil drain completely with the motorcycle perpendicular to the ground

15426

Remove the oil filter mounting bolt and drop out the oil filter

15427

Replace the oil filter element with a new one

This is where it gets a bit tricky the first time you do this. I advise having your owner's manual handy for the exact sequence the parts need to be assembled when doing a filter change. They have a very nice drawing in there. :)

The dropped out oil filter element and associated parts

15428 15429

Replace the O-rings with new ones.

you can see the larger O ring around the outside portion of the plate. There is a smaller o ring which requires removal of that spring and washer.

the smaller O ring is at the base of the center tube... remove the spring, washer and base plate.

new O rings should be included with the filter... mine has them with the Wix filters I use.

15430 15431

to replace the O ring, use something to lift the o ring out of it's groove and replace with a new O ring.

15432 15433

With the O rings changed, we are now ready to reinstall the filter... in the next post. :)

Apply a little engine oil to the O ring on the filter mounting bolt, fit the filter cover on the bolt and install the spring and flat washer.

15434 15435 15436 15437

Apply a little engine oil to the grommets on both sides of the filter element and turn and work the filter element into place. Be careful that the element grommets do not slip out of place.

15438

Install the element fence (cap) on the bolt.

15439

Install the oil filter, tightening its mounting bolt to the specified torque. (14.5 ft/lbs)

I wipe the face of the engine case side clean and apply oil to the O ring.

15440

install the completed filter assembly and torque.

15441

After the oil has completely drained out, install the engine oil drain plug with a new gasket. Torque bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs.

Fill the engine to the upper level line in the sight glass with a good quality engine oil specified in the owners manual.

Do this with the bike sitting absolutely vertical to prevent overfilling. Bike holds about 1.7-1.8 qts., but underfill it by a little bit, then run the bike, then top off. It's best to work up to the fill mark instead of overfilling and having to take oil out. Ask me how I know!!

You do not want to run with the bike overfilled with oil. You run the risk of engine damage with an overfilled engine. Please be very careful get the oil level between the lines in the sight glass. I usually fill mine to the upper fill mark on the sight glass.

The only way to get an accurate oil level reading is with the bike in an absolute vertical position... not on its sidestand.

15442 15443

Start the engine

run engine for a few minutes then turn off. let sit for a few minutes.

Check the oil level and for oil leakage.

oil level after starting the engine and turning it off. see how much it's dropped?

I then filled the oil back up to the upper line, started the engine for a few minutes, stopped it and let it rest again and this was the oil level after doing so.

15444 15445

That's it... it may look a bit more complicated than it really is, but take your time and you'll be able to change your own oil often and cheaply. :D

Thanks for posting Kelly!

Now - any suggestions to keep the oil from collecting in the underside of the cowlings when you are taking the filter off? That really annoyed me!

any suggestions to keep the oil from collecting in the underside of the cowlings when you are taking the filter off? That really annoyed me!
Odd... I've never had that problem. Do you have the bike on the rear stand when you change the oil? :confused:

Thanks for posting Kelly!

Now - any suggestions to keep the oil from collecting in the underside of the cowlings when you are taking the filter off? That really annoyed me!

I am curious... is this build up found only on the Left fairing? Because if it is, I thought it was oil from crankcase too, but it turned out to be my Repsol chain lube. That thing flings everywhere.

edit: sorry I misread your post. But I never had the problem when taking off the filter housing. Did you let the oil completely drain first from the drain bolt plug?

...turned out to be my Repsol chain lube. That thing flings everywhere. Maxima Chain Wax. :thumbup:

Maxima Chain Wax. :thumbup:

Well in that Chain Lube discussion, I switched over to Bel Ray Super Clean. Dries on leaving a white layer. So far its pretty good. As soon as the that can is done I'll try Maxima Chain wax because you are like my YODA (I can see how green suits you). So I trust your judgment in most areas. Almost all except for the green bikes being faster. Blacks the fastest.:lalala:

Nice attention to detail! :thumbup: I'm thinking on my next oil change I'm going to pick up a gallon of Rotella. Everyone seems to like it and it's way cheaper then quarts of Mobil 1.

Nice attention to detail! :thumbup: I'm thinking on my next oil change I'm going to pick up a gallon of Rotella. Everyone seems to like it and it's way cheaper then quarts of Mobil 1.

Yeah, it's been working great for me. This is the second change with the synthetic and I really like the stuff. I know Walmart carries it... hope it's still cheap. :(

Sweet, I can use the leftover filter I have the the Ninja in my new CBR.

Honda: 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024
Kawasaki: 16099-003

Thanks for posting Kelly!

Now - any suggestions to keep the oil from collecting in the underside of the cowlings when you are taking the filter off? That really annoyed me!

You warned me about this but it didnt happen to me while changing my oil on the side stand.

Something else to add... I had a helluva time getting the oil filter mounting bolt loose, but that could be because I only had a ratchet with ~6in. handle.

Something else to add... I had a helluva time getting the oil filter mounting bolt loose, but that could be because I only had a ratchet with ~6in. handle.
Is this your first oil change? Bolt could have been overtightened from the factory.

I use a combination box wrench on the bolt to hold the nut securely and then give it a quick rap with the palm of my hand to "break" the nut loose. The extra length of the combo wrench makes breaking the nut loose easier. After it's cracked, I then use a ratchet and socket to remove... or in the case of the oil filter plate, I just unscrew it by hand.

You warned me about this but it didnt happen to me while changing my oil on the side stand.

Something else to add... I had a helluva time getting the oil filter mounting bolt loose, but that could be because I only had a ratchet with ~6in. handle.

We put the handle to the kid's trike over it as a breaker bar - worked pretty well to get it off!

Is this your first oil change? Bolt could have been overtightened from the factory.

I use a combination box wrench on the bolt to hold the nut securely and then give it a quick rap with the palm of my hand to "break" the nut loose. The extra length of the combo wrench makes breaking the nut loose easier. After it's cracked, I then use a ratchet and socket to remove... or in the case of the oil filter plate, I just unscrew it by hand.

Yes this was the first, a couple weeks ago. I eventually got it off by hitting the handle of the smalls ratchet with a hammer. I tried for a good 10-15 minutes before that and the palm of my hand was bruised the next day. Must have been overtightened from factory.


We put the handle to the kid's trike over it as a breaker bar - worked pretty well to get it off!

Or you could have tied it to the back of the trike and had him get a head start. :eek:

Yes this was the first, a couple weeks ago. I eventually got it off by hitting the handle of the smalls ratchet with a hammer. I tried for a good 10-15 minutes before that and the palm of my hand was bruised the next day. Must have been overtightened from factory.




yeah, which is why I suggest a combo box wrench as they are usually longer (more leverage) than the regular wrenches or ratchets. Careful hitting the ratchets with the hammer... you could cause damage to the mechanism inside the ratchet. However, if you are using Craftsman ratchets, hit away. :D

yeah, which is why I suggest a combo box wrench as they are usually longer (more leverage) than the regular wrenches or ratchets. Careful hitting the ratchets with the hammer... you could cause damage to the mechanism inside the ratchet. However, if you are using Craftsman ratchets, hit away. :D

Haha, true. This was just a household ratchet that someone donated to our apartment and it was all I had at the time. We were lucky enough to have a 17mm socket.

When I go back down to school, im bringing my tools with me. A set of 1/2" drive sockets with a 14" ratchet. I still dont own one of my own breaker bars though. My torque wrench might help too.

Quick question: Is it a problem to have an oil different from 10W-40? I was told by a mechanic at a local Yamaha dealership I get tune-ups and such from that I should use 20W-50. From what I can tell, it's supposed to be better for high-RPM engines. Is that right?

Does it get over 104*F there? if so, you might want to consider it. Consult your owner's manual for the oil that will work in your local weather temp conditions.

Great Kkim thanks to you and your DIY i just had the most expensive oil change in the history of oil changes..It ended up costing somewhere around $400...i had to buy everything from stands to a drain pan. The good news is the oil change went just fine and i wont have to pay for any of that stuff ever again! Thanks for the write up!

lol... I consider tools an investment in future projects, so those costs will be amortized over the rest of your life (or however long the tool lasts :D). I have tools that I purchased over 40 years ago that I've used countless times for the many tasks I've done during that period. We all need to start somewhere.

Be honest, now that you've done your own oil change, do you think you'll ever pay someone else to do such a simple chore? :) Plus, doesn't it feel good knowing it was done right?

Congrats on gettin' her done! :thumbup:

it definetly does feel good...i would already be doing them on my car but i dont feel like getting underneath it! its also nice getting to know the bike a little better. it makes me a little more confident to get a little deeper into the motor. by the way i hope the first couple lines got your heart going a little bit i figured you'd think something got screwed up bad!

lol... I was expecting you to tell us that you took it to the dealer for the oil change. :lol:

Great DIY. How often do you clean the oil screen? Would you like me to take a few pics of the process for you to add to your diy?

Thanks... Please do. I have never cleaned my screen. :D

Thanks for that. I think the max temp around here is somewhere around 110 degrees(f), and it rarely gets below freezing. I actually don't have an owner's manual (DANG IT!). I guess that's the price you pay for being the third owner and buying from a private seller! You wouldn't happen to have a massive zerox version of that too would you? :D

Nope, no owner's manual, but they are available through the Kawasaki web site.

I have not checked, but I'm pretty sure the oil info is in the service manual if you have one. ;)

I just checked the service manual, and it says 10W-40. It doesn't say anything about variances for temps. Should I exchange for 10W-40?

in the owner's manual, it says that 10w-40 is for 14 deg to 104 deg.
20w-50 is for 32 deg to 104(+) deg. if it does get to below freezing at times... and over 104 deg, then maybe you should use 10w-50?

no. The dealer was giving you some good advice based on your local temps. In the owners manual it lists a host of different weight s of oils and the temp range they are good for. the 20-50 he is recommending are for temps above 104*.

Ok cool. Thanks for the info. I need to get me one of those owner's manuals! :D

Oil change tomorrow!

Some oil filter part numbers that will work in the previous gen and new gen bikes. They use the same oil filter.

Amsoil: SMF 101 (No longer available. Replaced by WIX 24941.)
CarQuest: CFI-89941
Emgo: 10-37500 (includes O-rings) 10-20300 (doesn't have O-rings)
Fram: CH6012
Hastings: LF571
Honda: 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024
Kawasaki: 16099-003
K&N: KN-401
NAPA: PS4941 (formerly 4941)
Perf-Form: OF-0047 (formerly J-501)
Purolator: ML16812
STP: SMO-12 (Once readily available, now appears to have been discontinued.)
Triumph: 1210031
Vesrah: SF-4004
WIX: 24941
Yamaha: 36Y-13441-00

Another one to add:

Hiflofiltro: HF401
http://www.hiflofiltro.com/fileadmin/Code/images/small/hf401.jpg

http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=639

Another one to add:

Hiflofiltro: HF401
http://www.hiflofiltro.com/fileadmin/Code/images/small/hf401.jpg

http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=639

from another 250 site... use at your own risk.


As most cartridge-type filters are more or less the same, any of the above filters will be of good quality. There is, however, one brand of filter which several club members DON'T recommend. That is HiFloFiltro. As reported, it takes longer for the oil pressure light to go out after starting than with other filters. One member reported that at 3000 miles it started shifting funny, and the oil light stayed on longer than normal. His second Hi-Flo did the same thing at a little over 3000 miles. Other filters can go many more miles without these symptoms showing up.

from another 250 site... use at your own risk.


As most cartridge-type filters are more or less the same, any of the above filters will be of good quality. There is, however, one brand of filter which several club members DON'T recommend. That is HiFloFiltro. As reported, it takes longer for the oil pressure light to go out after starting than with other filters. One member reported that at 3000 miles it started shifting funny, and the oil light stayed on longer than normal. His second Hi-Flo did the same thing at a little over 3000 miles. Other filters can go many more miles without these symptoms showing up.

I see. I've heard the same thing for FRAM where people were saying not to use them either. I gave them a chance recently due to the convenience that Rotella T was sold at Wal-Mart and they carry only Fram filters. Not sure if it was the guy who changed it (I let them do it just b/c I was already having work done on the bike) or the filter itself, but I seem to have a slow leak from underneath. I'll double check if it's just not tightened enough later on.

I have read of too many problems with Fram filters that I gave up using them many years ago. Interesting enough, I happen to work for the company that owns Fram... what does that tell you? :p

Interesting enough, I happen to work for the company that owns Fram... what does that tell you? :p

:laugh: what!? duuude wth!?

So I went out to buy oil and a filter today for my bike, and I was gonna change it this afternoon, but NO ONE has the right filter...WTF!?!? Not to mention that no one had plain 'ole 10W-40 Synth Oil either. Not even Wal-mart, I was enraged.
I never heard about that FRAM issue before. We've solely used their filters for more than a decade in all our cars and never have we once had an issue.

Very nice DIY post. Thanks.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html

http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html

So do you check the oil level while the motor is running with the bike vertical? The oil fills the entire sight glass when the engine is off...running it is in the higher middle portion between the lines, is that ok?

engine should be off. Bike vertical.

Warm or cold? I think I better run out and check... I think there may be too much oil in my 250...I've ridden it quite a bit without any troubles...

Start the engine

run engine for a few minutes then turn off. let sit for a few minutes.

Ok, looks like im safe, I'm at the top line. So what does overfilling the motor do exactly?

It can build up pressure in the crankcase and lead to seal failures. It can also froth the oil from the crank being too submersed in oil. just keep it between those two lines on the sight glass.

also, check your oil frequently until you get a good feel on how much oil your bike eats. The high revving nature of the 250 engine can lead to the oil level dropping if you don't pay attention. I've noticed less oil level fluctuation after I switched to a full synthetic oil.

Another question, I'm sure others have wondered this too...if your torque wrench only has 1lb increments is it best to do 14ft-lbs or 15ft-lbs? Or neither?

either/or... Torque wrenches are never 100% accurate anyway, so anything around the spec is close enough. It's still much better than doing it by "feel". :lol:

there are instances where getting the torque accurate to a gnat's ass is crucial... this isn't one of them.

Thanks for the great DIY, Kelly!

I've always known oil changes were no big deal, but this was the first I've ever done... Man, I could have saved myself so much money in the past by doing these myself.

The only thing that worries me a little is that 14.5 ft. lbs feels a whole lot looser than the factory bolt did, but since I've got no leaks and can't loosen the bolts without at least a little effort I assume I'm good.

yeah, it's a great feeling saving money, but the real neat part about this is the satisfaction that you did it and (hopefully) done right. If it fails, you have no one to blame but yourself.

the torque value might seem a bit low, but I bet with a few heat cycles, the next time you go to take off that bolt it won't feel as loose. Besides, you are simply pushing that plate up with that bolt so the rubber o-ring can seal. Traditionally, you don't want to over torque or makes things so tight that it distorts and/or smashes the seal and keep it from doing it's job.

hopefully your torque wrench is reasonably accurate. :)

I've noticed less oil level fluctuation after I switched to a full synthetic oil.

Have you noticed any fluctuation on full synthetic? It's been about ~1300 miles since I switched to full synthetic and the oil level hasnt dropped at all.

I also didnt notice any before the switch.

the level used to drop before the switch to synthetic. after the switch not at all. not saying it was due to the synthetic... could have been due to break in, but it has stayed the same since. Still, I keep a close eye on the oil level.

ok so this may seem like a dumb question

but do i have to use motorcycle specific oil or can i use regular oil?
this is my first bike and first oil change for it so i have no clue lol

you want to use motorcycle oil, as the same oil that is in the engine lubricates the transmission, and motorcycle oil is designed for this where other oils are not.

ok cool, so i guess i have to go to a cycle gear or to a the dealership then huh?

I just picked some up at Auto Zone tonight, and you can also get it at Walmart

really...hmm didnt know that

k thanks for the help!

I've got one question about oil changes:

What do you do with the old oil? One shouldn't (and may not, in most civilized countries) just chuck it away somewhere, right? Where can one typically get the old oil disposed of properly? I know most petrol stations do oil changes, so I guess they can dispose of it, or?

Most Kragens, AutoZone, and other car parts places like that will collect used oil. Usually for free.

I went to the local motorcycle store and picked up some oil:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51667WBHBVL._SS400_.jpg

and a kawasaki oil filter.

funny thing about the kawi filter is that it doesn't include o-rings. just the filter. It's my first change at 600 miles so it should be ok. :shrugs:

bike is currently downstairs draining. about to attack the oil filter soon once I let it do it's thing.

yeah, you gotta buy the o-rings separately if you get the kawi filter. i forget how much they cost, but i think it was about $20 for the 2. crazy!!

lols. i think the filter itself was around $12 from the dealer. what a rip IMO.

next change i'm going with the K&n. i think it's around 14 shipped from ebay.

kkim, what else would you advise be done for 600 mile oil change?

lols. i think the filter itself was around $12 from the dealer. what a rip IMO.

next change i'm going with the K&n. i think it's around 14 shipped from ebay.

I think I paid $15 for my Kawasaki filters from a local dealership. None of my local auto-parts stores carry motorcycle specific oil filters, I'd have to have them order it for me.

You can find the K&N filters for $6.99 from motorcycle-superstore.com. The shipping for my complete order was $7, but I ordered 3 filters plus a bunch of other small items.

what else would you advise be done for 600 mile oil change?

the checklist for what needs to be done is in your owner's manual.

None of my local auto-parts stores carry motorcycle specific oil filters, I'd have to have them order it for me.

You can find the K&N filters for $6.99 from motorcycle-superstore.com. The shipping for my complete order was $7, but I ordered 3 filters plus a bunch of other small items.

I order my WIX filters from the local auto parts store as they don't carry those model filters on a regular basis. They usually get them in a day or two. Like you, I order 2-3 at a time so I have some on hand for the next oil change.

hmmmm, i was planning on doing an oil/filter change tonight...but I bought oem filters. the girl at the counter tried to tell me to replace teh crush washer and drain bolt every oil change, but didn't mention anything about the o-ring.....maybe i should check that

how many miles do you have now?

1300km....done several oil changes but this will be my first new filter

You should be okay reusing the o rings, but try to make it a habit to change them at every oil change after that.

I won't say anything about not changing the filter when you changed the oil. :tape2:

Nice write-up :)

lol... aloha, shorty!! I invited you to ninjette a loooog time ago so you could bring your excellent writeup over to share with the forum. :) when you didn't respond, I went ahead and did this very basic writeup. nowhere as good as yours, but it serves a purpose.

good to have you here.
:D

Your write-up is great. Sorry it took so long to get here, but I'm glad I finally made it. The site looks good.

Hey everyone. Just wanted to let you know, since everyone seems to be struggling to find a good deal on filters, that on amazon you they're selling 2 Purolator filters for about $8. Yes, two of them. I've never heard of any issues with Purolator filters and they come with the o-rings. Add a cd or something else to your order and you've got free shipping through amazon.

Also, I got a quick question. That little o-ring, how the hell do you get the cap over it? I put it in the groove, oiled it up, and try as might I couldn't get the cap piece over it. I ended up reusing the old o-ring for this change, but next time, I gotta replace it. What gives?

lol... that may be a reason to stay away from Purolator filters. :D

picture of the O- ring?

haha. Nah, they're fine, and I read up on a few reviews. I didn't take any pictures. The big o-ring was spot on in fitment. The small o-rings looked identical and it fit fine in the groove and all. It just seemed to be thicker by some infinitesimal amount and, though I came close, I couldn't force that cover over the o-ring. I was simply wondering if that was the case with all of them or just my experience. I didn't try the o-ring that came with the second filter I bought, but I doubt that'll be different. I'll figure something out next time I change the oil.

It does take a little bit of force to pop the center portion on over that small o ring.

Okay, so at least I know it's not a completely defective piece of rubber. ;)

the girl at the counter tried to tell me to replace teh crush washer and drain bolt every oil change...

back up... i know about changing the crush washer, but i have never heard about having to change the drain plug bolt every change too. i would not think that is necessary. any other input on this?

no need to change the drain bolt/plug at every oil change, only the crush washer. :D

yea, my friends and my dealer said the drain bolt is not something I need to change as long as i use proper torque.
and yes kelly, I will be changing the filter every oil change from now on, but was told since i did so many in the break in not to worry about the filter and just do the oil.
I really don't see why the o-ring needs to be changed every time though...it should be able to last and seal just fine....but i will anyways i guess

I did my first oil change on my bike tonight. Thanks Kkim for the help. I didn't change the crush washer on the drain bolt/plug though. I didn't know I needed to. Where and what kind do you buy to replace that? Just any one that will fit or is there a special kind I need to get?

I buy mine from the autoparts store. they have crush washers of different sizes there. sorry, can't remember what size that washer is. :o

no doubt they were cheaper than what the dealership charged me... although i don't remember how much they were.

Attached is a PDF that I created for the information posted here so that you can easily print this out for reference.

I just did my second oil change at 600, and I wanted to just drop in and say thanks for taking the time. I don't think I would have ever taken the assembly apart to find the small o-ring without this thread...though I'm kind of convinced that as long as it's not leaking, it's no big deal. Every o-ring I've taken off has been pristine, and I wouldn't hesitate to reuse them a few times if my filters didn't come with them.

I was happy to find much less "junk" in this oil change...looked like a few flecks of paint, but no metal. :thumbup:

And for lack of a better local option, I've been using Fram filters (I know) from Wal-Mart. But I figure with these changes at such short intervals, the filter doesn't really have much time to break down. At 1000 - 1500, I'll switch to Rotella, and I'll keep stopping by O'reilly's to check for Wix filters, but they never seem to have them.

At what point are you guys planning to go regular intervals on your oil changes? 2-3K with synthetic? I ask, because I'll be racking up the miles commuting to work...probably 700-1000 per month.

If you can't find the WIX filters, NAPA Gold line of filters are made by WIX.

After all the break in oil changes are over with, I'm planning to change mine every 3k miles, but if you are commuting and don't really push your bike hard, I'd consider 5K change intervals as long as your are using a full synthetic.

install the engine oil drain plug with a new gasket

so I've never done this on a bike but will tomorrow. we have to buy a new gasket also?

ehh, think I just found the answer in the manual "Replace the drain bolt gaskets with new ones if they are
damaged."

you don't have to every change but doing it every once in awhile is good for piece of mind. there was once on a used car that I bought that I decided not to change it and it ended up not sealing and oil started dripping so I had to basically do half an oil change all over again. better safe than sorry!

you are actually supposed to change the drain bolt crush washer at each oil change. The washer is designed to deform under pressure and seal as the drain bolt is torqued to spec. It is a "use once" designed washer.

hmm. so can we just pick one of these up at the auto store? does anyone know the size specs on this gasket so that I don't have to go run to the store in the middle of my oil change to show them the exact gasket I need?

Quick question: Is it a problem to have an oil different from 10W-40? I was told by a mechanic at a local Yamaha dealership I get tune-ups and such from that I should use 20W-50. From what I can tell, it's supposed to be better for high-RPM engines. Is that right?

Yes if you live in like AZ.

Hey nice write up! Heres 2 other things about well ANY oil change you might find useful.
1) If all you have are Wrenches to take off the bolt/drain plug, and NEED more leverage, take another wrench (one that is 1-2 sizes near the one your using), and Fit it into the other one.... open-end, fits into the box-end or vise versa! (i dont have a camera, sorry cant give Pics)
This will give ya more leverage to break a bolt loose!

2) b4 you try and take off the drain plug, MAKE SURE that the oil fill CAP, is Fully On, screwed in. Cuz if you have the Cap OFF, then as you remove the Bolt/plug... itll create a 'vaccaum' and cause the Oil too ' JET out' and make things more Messy! hehe

Oh for my First Oil change, at about 610 miles, i took my bike too the dealer.

I dont have a bike stand,etc at the time, as i had them tighten up the chain slack too! I had them use reg 10w-40 Kawasaki 4T oil. Now im not a huge believer in synth Oils... im old school, and every Car ive ever had, reg oil changed 3k miles... ive Never had a Engine go bad,etc... but, whats your guys take on syth oils for motorcycles?
Keep in mind, i use my bike for getting too work, and just cruisin' around town and joy riding! I DONT race tracks and such, so i dont see a synth oil needed.

So if its 'Best' too use synth oils on my 250R, what mileage should i start using them, and what kinda Brand 10w-40 be Overall best? (price,performence,etc)

Thanks!

Great DIY, thanks. Everything worked smoothly and as described, until...

I tried using my torque wrench (set to 14.5 ft/lbs) to torque the bolts. I've torqued the wheels on my car and have always heard a very positive clicking when torque is reached. I didn't hear that when tightening these bolts. After tightening a bit more, I got scared and stopped. I'm not really sure at this point if they are over tightened, under tightened, or OK.

After starting for the second time to as described, I noticed smoke coming out from somewhere. Smells like burning oil but I'm not sure if it's some that I missed from draining that is heating up around the exhaust or some kind of new leak?

what size torques wrench did you use? what is the range of values it can handle?

On the smoke... I'd guess you must have splashed some on the exhaust and it's just burning off. If it continues, I'd be concerned. Trace down the source of the smoke if it continues.

Quick observation: When torque values are less then 20 ft./lbs. or so I suggest getting a 3/8" torque wrench that measures in inch/lbs. Most torque wrenches become very inaccurate when you start approaching low values. One time I half assed it on an Mopar engine and used my 1/2" torque wrench for a 10 ft/lbs (120 inch/lbs) camshaft cap bolt and snapped the bolt.

Pulling my 3/8" torque wrench revealed the bolts were closer to 12-14 ft./lbs. :(

And as kkim pointed out, the header runs close to the oil filter cover and it's easy to splash a little oil on there :D

what size torques wrench did you use? what is the range of values it can handle?

On the smoke... I'd guess you must have splashed some on the exhaust and it's just burning off. If it continues, I'd be concerned. Trace down the source of the smoke if it continues.

The wrench is 1/2" with a step down adapter to 3/8" so I can use it with my 17mm socket. The range is 10 to 150 ft/lbs.

Today I took the exhaust side fairing off and ran it for a few minutes. There was still some smoke but not as much. I even tried my old Master Mechanic pointer style in/lb torque wrench to check. The bolts are definitely tight enough.

Now I am just worried they are way too tight. Not sure if the over tightening is causing the o-rings not to seal. Also wondering I can see a little oil along that seam but not sure if it was there to begin with or not. No apparent dripping anywhere. I've been using newsprint under while running to check for drips.

A 1/2" drive will definitely not be "sensitive" enough at that low end range. I suggest a 3/8" drive or a 1/4" drive wrench that will cover that range. Torque wrenches are not too accurate at the extremes of their stated ranges.

Wipe the seam the looks wet and recheck after awhile to see if it's wet again. If it's sealed properly, it shouldn't look wet once you wipe it clean.

Quick observation: When torque values are less then 20 ft./lbs. or so I suggest getting a 3/8" torque wrench that measures in inch/lbs. Most torque wrenches become very inaccurate when you start approaching low values. One time I half assed it on an Mopar engine and used my 1/2" torque wrench for a 10 ft/lbs (120 inch/lbs) camshaft cap bolt and snapped the bolt.

Pulling my 3/8" torque wrench revealed the bolts were closer to 12-14 ft./lbs. :(

And as kkim pointed out, the header runs close to the oil filter cover and it's easy to splash a little oil on there :D

Looks like I might have to loosen and re-torque. Is there any damage I could have caused over tightening other than snapping the bolt?

A 1/2" drive will definitely not be "sensitive" enough at that low end range. I suggest a 3/8" drive or a 1/4" drive wrench that will cover that range. Torque wrenches are not too accurate at the extremes of their stated ranges.

Wipe the seam the looks wet and recheck after awhile to see if it's wet again. If it's sealed properly, it shouldn't look wet once you wipe it clean.

Thanks for the advice. Looks like I need a new torque wrench!

Do you think I can just loosen the filter bolt and re-tighten to appropriate torque or do I need to start all over? I could probably take the oil drain bolt off and quickly replace the crush washer without losing too much oil. I do have an extra bottle. Any thoughts?

if you're not leaking anything, leave things alone till your next oil change. in the meantime, get yourself an appropriate torque wrench for the required torque values.

I own 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inch drive wrenches to cover most of what I do in my garage.

if you're not leaking anything, leave things alone till your next oil change. in the meantime, get yourself an appropriate torque wrench for the required torque values.

I own 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inch drive wrenches to cover most of what I do in my garage.

Just went on a test ride and everything seems OK, no leaking or smoke as far as I can tell.

As far as the wrench, I have a 3/8" that reads in inch/lbs. I'm going to look for a 3/8" with foot/lbs for a more accurate reading. I'll probably do my next service around 3500. Thanks again for all your help!

Just went on a test ride and everything seems OK, no leaking or smoke as far as I can tell.

As far as the wrench, I have a 3/8" that reads in inch/lbs. I'm going to look for a 3/8" with foot/lbs for a more accurate reading. I'll probably do my next service around 3500. Thanks again for all your help!

Craig - inch lbs is no less accurate. 14.5 ft lbs = 174 inch lbs
all you do is multiply by 12

Craig - inch lbs is no less accurate. 14.5 ft lbs = 174 inch lbs
all you do is multiply by 12

True, I've always just multiplied in the past. The problem of accuracy is really about the increments on my in/lb wrench jumping from 100 to 200 with only one little line between. I'd like to find something with better/more increments and figured while I'm at it a 3/8" ft/lb wrench might not be a bad addition.

I also have a click type with the twist handle to set torque which seems possibly a better option than the pointer type. Maybe they both work fine though...

I have the click type and can set every inch - I got it at sears and have been very happy with it :)

I have the click type and can set every inch - I got it at sears and have been very happy with it :)

Wow, that is very precise! I'll have to check it out, thanks.

i did my first oil change today @ 620 miles. thanks for the great write up kim. btw thanks again for the service manual u emailed me. im saving me some money having to do the 600 mile service myself with the help of my pops who's a pretty good mechanic.

First oil change today at 75km, glad i did as the oil that came out looked putrid :) .. could only find semi synthetic 10w40 out of 6 bike/auto supply stores.. will be doing the next change at around 500km ..

I did make one mistake, took out the sump bolt next to the oil filter first instead of the drain plug, re-attached and torqued up to 14.5 ft/lb, hopefully didn't do anything major :/


now running the engine up to around 6k rpm, does anyone know if i should be able to do 100 km/h without damaging the engine during the break-in ?


Thanks

Tom

Tom,

You'll be fine running the bike all the way up to redline during break in. Some break in philosophies encourage it, so running your bike anything less than that is acceptable. You are doing right by changing the oil often during the break in period. I changed mine 3 times before 600 miles.

could only find semi synthetic 10w40 out of 6 bike/auto supply stores.. will be doing the next change at around 500km ..


You can use any oil, if it's not energy conserving. Check this thread:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10346

:thumbup: what kkim said

I only use motorcycle oil. To each his own.

Ok so I didnt know where to post this question and this thread seemed like a good spot. So it seems like Rotella T can not be found anymore in or around my town. I have a little bit left(maybe for half an oil change) of a gallon that I bought. Would it be ok to mix this synthetic with another synthetic of the same weight (say Castrol Syntec) in the same oil change?

You can probably order Rotella T online somewhere.

Yea your probably right but I feel like shipping would end up costing quite a bit due to the weight. If I find that the oils available to me at walmart or an auto parts store are not up to the same quality I may end up doing that but I'll give this stuff a try.

If in fact I cant mix these oils then I'll go order some Shell.

Does anyone know who makes Kawasaki synthetic?

If I find that the oils available to me at walmart or an auto parts store are not up to the same quality I may end up doing that but I'll give this stuff a try.

:confused: Where have you been buying the Rotella? The only place that I've seen it is Walmart....

Yea your probably right but I feel like shipping would end up costing quite a bit due to the weight. If I find that the oils available to me at walmart or an auto parts store are not up to the same quality I may end up doing that but I'll give this stuff a try.

If in fact I cant mix these oils then I'll go order some Shell.

You most likely could, but I wouldn't. You never know what reaction mixing of different brands of oils might bring. Just buy 2 qts of whatever oil you want to try and use that. :)

Yea I bought it from Walmart but they no longer carry it :(...maybe I should try a different wal-mart?

Yea I was thinking that but I couldn't wrap my head around a reaction occuring if both synthetic and the same weight. I guess any kinda special thing they add in for "anti-sludge" or any other BS they say so people buy their product...

The only place I have found it is Walmart

Alright then time to find a new wal-mart...

The only way to get an accurate oil level reading is with the bike in an absolute vertical position... not on its sidestand.

After filling the oil, is it ok to leave the bike on the rear stand(vertical but slightly raised rear) for accurate reading through the window or does it need to be off?

It will be a little off on the rear stand. What I've done is fill the bike while checking on the ground and vertical and get the oil level where you want. Then, lift the bike up on the rear stand to see where the oil level is at that point. You can either mark or remember where it is while on the rear stand for future reference and still be assured the oil level is correct.

I try to shoot for the oil level to be 3/4 of the way up the sight glass window when the bike is on the ground and vertical. Hope that helps.

:)

Oh yes good idea!
Now I'm 100% sure for my second oil change this weekend(@300miles)
Thank you

GL... let us know how it goes. :)

It needs to be off the rear stand. I filled mine up once on the rear stand and found out I overfilled it. By a decent amount too :o

I did my first oil change on my 250 today. Everything went well, except I noticed afterward that I drained the oil through the plug that was used on the old 250, where the new 08+ has a different drain setup underneath the oil screen. The oil drained fine anyway, but I just wanted to make sure that nothing will be harmed by my little newbie error.

no harm, but get into the habit of using the new drain plug location instead.

I used this to do my first oil change by myself and 400 miles later my bike is still running great. Thanks kkim!

I used this and the manual (for the filter assembly schematic) just now for my first oil / filter change at 100km and it went off perfectly. Thanks kkim!

I did notice using a torque wrench that the filter and plug bolts do not need much muscle as a few have noted here, it was like "really, that's it?" ;)

Great DIY.

Thanks for the guide.

I didn't want to make a new thread so i'll just ask here - Honda GN4 10W-40 is fine for the 600 mile change right (first change) ? Im assuming its conventional since it doesn't say synthetic. I dont know why I bought this one, the guy at the honda dealer was a _______ (expletive) but its the only one they had. I didn't get a filter yet because they only had the kawi one which doesn't have the O rings, Kinda expensive though, 22 bucks for a gallon.... (4 quarts). can still return this oil if I need to. I also went to walmart but they didn't have filters either but im not even sure they have motorcycle specific oil.

anyone in socal - don't go to honda of hollywood, they do not know what customer service is.

Andrew - the only filters you'll find at Walmart are the Fram - I would stay far away - do a search on Fram on here if you want more info.... I order mine from somewhere like bike bandit or motorcycle superstore, and I usually get the K&N. To check whether your oil is synthetic, see if it says conventional on there anywhere, which it should. If it does, then it is not synthetic. I have seen some motorcycle oil at wally world, but not very much. I get mine from the local Advanced Auto store

yeah I saw a wall full of Fram filters although not motorcycle specific so I just left. Thanks for the heads up. Im looking at the bottle and it doesn't say synthetic or conventional but the I specifically did ask for convential at the dealer but the guy was an idiot so who knows.

this is the one I bought "genuine 4 stroke oil"
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/product/PROHONDA-GN4-4STROKE-OIL-10W40-GALLON/?pssource=true&psreferrer=http%253A%252F%252Fsearch.yahoo.com%252Fsearch%253B_ylt%253DA0geut6hp YBKOkkAKeVXNyoA%253Fp%257Cequalto%257Chonda%2Bgn4%2Boil%2B10w40%257Camp%257Cy%25 7Cequalto%257CSearch%257Camp%257Cfr%257Cequalto%257Cyfp-t-701%257Camp%257Cfr2%257Cequalto%257Csb-top%257Camp%257Csao%257Cequalto%257C0&catalogId=110564&segment=badger

if it were a synthetic, you can be sure it would say so somewhere on the bottle.

if no designation, you can assume it's a conventional oil.

http://powersports.honda.com/accessories/parts.aspx

Thanks. I just picked up a purolator filter from pep boys, will try to change it tonight. hope fully it goes well :high5:

Just done - thanks for the guide Kelly, especially the pics. Everything went smooth.

Just done - thanks for the guide Kelly, especially the pics. Everything went smooth.

that's good to hear. :thumbup:

no harm, but get into the habit of using the new drain plug location instead.

Is the new plug (I'm assuming for the new gen) the one that's horizontal?

yes, the horizontal one pictured in this DIY. :)

This is just an FYI for everyone. Recently, I purchased the following pitcher, which is normally used for mixing oil and gas in 2 stroke engines.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=85&pictureid=2210

I wanted to use it for measuring the exact amount of oil used for my oil changes!

Yesterday, I changed the oil and filter. The manual says to use 1.7 qts, if the engine has been used, i.e. already had oil in it previously. The manual says to use 1.8 qts, if this is a dry engine, i.e. just being put into service. Well .1 (1/10) of a quart is 3.2 ounces. I decided to go with the 1.8 qts (57.6 ozs) just to find where this is on the glass sight gauge.

After removing the drain plug and the oil filter housing and allowing the engine to drain for about 20 minutes, while on the rear stand, I replaced the drain plug and new filter. Since the measuring pitcher will hold a maximum of 32 ounces, I added 32 ounces of Shell Rotella-T 5W-40W and another pitcher of 25.6 ounces (right at 5/8 past 24 ounces..each mark is 2 ounces). I then started the engine and let it idle for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the drain plug and the oil filter housing.

What everyone has been waiting for...the bottom line! That is the answer, the sight glass shows the oil level EVEN with the bottom line, when the bike is held vertical!

Prior to going for a ride this afternoon, I added about 1.7 ounces and this brought the level to the middle of the sight glass. I did this so I don't have to put on my reading glasses, in order to see the bottom/top line. I can quickly see that the oil is roughly in the middle of the glass before each ride!

This is just an FYI for everyone. Recently, I purchased the following pitcher, which is normally used for mixing oil and gas in 2 stroke engines.

That is a really, really good idea!

I think it cost like $3 at the dealer.

ratio rite is a good tool for sure

Help??

I am doing my first oil change. I bought this bike used and I can't get the oil filter screw loose. I think it was over torqued. Anyone have any ideas to take the screw off without stripping the bolt?

are you using the proper sized box wrench/socket?

yes. 17mm

im using a 3/8 socket wrech

okay... remember, left loosy, righty tighty.


Place the wrench over the bolt head, hold it firmly in place with your left hand where the wrench meets the bolt, then get a hammer and firmly hit the end of the wrench to loosen the bolt. Quick blows like that will usually shock a tight bolt loose.

there should be a 17mm box wrench in your tool kit.

lol...so no ideas? been working on this bolt for like 30min now trying to do it carefully. im about to take a shotgun to it just about now.

if you want help, you need to be patient. you're lucky someone was on line to help in the first place.

thanks kkim....i love this forum...finally got it off. changed the oil. rides really good now. i can actually tell a difference surprisingly. I used a k&n filter with castrol power rx gps 4t oil. used exactly 2qts.

if you want help, you need to be patient. you're lucky someone was on line to help in the first place.

Sorry if it came off bad....i was just getting frustrated with the bolt and it is blazin hot today. =) I always appreciate the help on here.

John - 2 qts is just a little over what you should be using - are you sure it came to the right level in the sight glass when it was vertical?

Sorry if it came off bad....i was just getting frustrated with the bolt and it is blazin hot today. =) I always appreciate the help on here.

no worries, John... you should hear the vocabulary used when I'm having a problem in the garage. :taz:

John - 2 qts is just a little over what you should be using - are you sure it came to the right level in the sight glass when it was vertical?

I used 2 bottles, but there was a little left in the second bottle, so it was prob like 1.8ish that I actually filled up.

Sorry if it came off bad....i was just getting frustrated with the bolt and it is blazin hot today. =) I always appreciate the help on here.

Yeah, Yeah..... We know how you Z-car boys can be! :)

You know, when I did the first oil change. I just used a ratchet to put the filter back on. < Iam old, I know what Iam doing... :rolleyes: Next oil change, it took a freaking breaker bar to get the dam thing loose :p

arent you supposed to use 10w-40 oil? :S

who said not to?

In the pictures, 5w-40 is being used

5w-40 will work in place of 10w-40. I used 5w-40 because that's the only way the Rotella T synthetic 40w oil is sold in the US.

I used a 10w40. I had a question though. I went to cyclegear to pick up oil and the employee told me not to used synthetic since my engine is still new (5k miles)? He said synthetic doesn't all the lubes needed for new moving parts? also if you go synthetic you cant go back?....Now, I dont care for not being able to go back to regular blend, but is it true not to used synthetic until you have a good amount of miles on the engine? The guy got me into getting a semi-synthetic which he said was better than regular blend but not synthetic. What do you guys recommend?

I went to a full synthetic after 1000 miles. I changed the oil/filter 3 or four times prior to that using conventional oil.

I used a 10w40. I had a question though. I went to cyclegear to pick up oil and the employee told me not to used synthetic since my engine is still new (5k miles)? He said synthetic doesn't all the lubes needed for new moving parts? also if you go synthetic you cant go back?....Now, I dont care for not being able to go back to regular blend, but is it true not to used synthetic until you have a good amount of miles on the engine? The guy got me into getting a semi-synthetic which he said was better than regular blend but not synthetic. What do you guys recommend?

Here is a link to a thread you might want to read.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10346

The subject of oil and when to change it is just like engine break-in; a lot of opinions. I've found there are some basic rules you can follow on this forum and other areas of life.

1. Common sense rules.
2. Examine the source; do they have an "opinion on everything" but only have 50 posts and a brand new first time bike?
3. When it comes to safety there is only one right way.
4. When it comes to the maintenance, it all depends upon how you ride your bike and what you are looking for.
5. If it sounds too good to be true is usually is.

All that said most people will recommend you stay with conventional oil until you have the engine broken in (600-1000 miles). You need the piston rings and cylinder head to mate with each other and that take some "friction" to happen.

Just like in your cage if you have a lot of short rides or are wringing that little engine out to 12.5K a lot you should consider changing the oil and filter more frequently that if you are taking nice long rides and moderate RPMs.

Enjoy and ride safe.

One thing I'd like to emphasize as somebody who just did their first oil change -- if you're doing it on your sidestand, make sure your drip pan isn't too tall. There isn't a lot of room to work with.

This is for Rage42, since i dont have his email.... he wanted to know what my rotella T bottle looks like!


BTW, i bought mine at a Wal-mart for $19.99 (1 gal. thats 2 oil changes roughly)

hope this helps, if pics arent good enuff... just let me know and ill retake some and update them! OKie?

ttyl

-dave

thanks. Couldn't see from kkims pics if there was a motorcycle flavor of rotella. Only found the "truck" stuff at the auto store, and didn't want to buy stuff from the dealer again.

This is for Rage42, since i dont have his email.... he wanted to know what my rotella T bottle looks like!


BTW, i bought mine at a Wal-mart for $19.99 (1 gal. thats 2 oil changes roughly)

hope this helps, if pics arent good enuff... just let me know and ill retake some and update them! OKie?

ttyl

-dave
Posted via Mobile Device

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands

This is for Rage42, since i dont have his email.... he wanted to know what my rotella T bottle looks like!


BTW, i bought mine at a Wal-mart for $19.99 (1 gal. thats 2 oil changes roughly)

hope this helps, if pics arent good enuff... just let me know and ill retake some and update them! OKie?

ttyl

-dave

Interesting picture oil and pocketbook. Reminds me of when my wife went to a friends house and helmet was on the stove. He said hey I only eat out and the stove is right by the door so I will never forget my helmet.

Someone above asked if you go syn can you ever use conventional again? I heard you couldn't back a few years ago (due to seals swelling), but can now. Anyone know?

Someone above asked if you go syn can you ever use conventional again? I heard you couldn't back a few years ago (due to seals swelling), but can now. Anyone know?

I'm certain that is a myth. Check out the Mobil 1 website which has a section about synthetic oil myths.

So Mobil 1 which wants to sell you synthetic says it is fine to switch back and forth. Also there are many blends of synthetic and conventional sold. So for me this issue is 100% closed, but of course everyone can draw their own conclusions.

Since the vast majority of high performance cars (including Corvette) come from the factory with Mobil 1, I'm skeptical about the idea of having to wait before using a Synthetic for the 250. But there have been enough people warning about it that I just don't know the answer on that one. I have my doubts though.

What type of oil is recommended for a bike that's going to be sitting through a Canadian winter in an unheated garage? Is 10w40 good enough or do I need something else? It gets down to the -30c (-22f) range sometimes.

10w-40 conventional motorcycle oil.

Thanks! And what size of crush gasket do I need to get?

Thanks! And what size of crush gasket do I need to get?

sorry, never measured one to give you an exact answer. perhaps someone else can answer that or measure yours when you change the oil :)

I'm certain that is a myth. Check out the Mobil 1 website which has a section about synthetic oil myths.

So Mobil 1 which wants to sell you synthetic says it is fine to switch back and forth. Also there are many blends of synthetic and conventional sold. So for me this issue is 100% closed, but of course everyone can draw their own conclusions.

Since the vast majority of high performance cars (including Corvette) come from the factory with Mobil 1, I'm skeptical about the idea of having to wait before using a Synthetic for the 250. But there have been enough people warning about it that I just don't know the answer on that one. I have my doubts though.

The no synthetic oil crap during break in is crap. If you're changing oil frequently while the engine is new, syn oil is just too expensive to me to dump out at 100 and 600 mi. marks. You can run syn oil in your brand new engine and you'll be fine. Modern engines using modern materials for rings and cylinders do not rely on wear to seat rings. Ring seating is a function of design, geometry, and mostly cylinder pressures. You don't need or even want rings to wear to seat and they don't need metal-to-metal contact to do it. That's what oil also does, seals the rings BTW. Changing back to dino oil doesn't hurt anything.

Great DIY, kkim! I did my first oil change over the weekend and it was quite easy, thanks to your instructions. :)

One thing to note, though: The Honda 15410-426-010 filter comes with both O-rings, but the large one is too large in circumference and too thick to fit in the groove. I just ended up re-using my existing O-ring after looking it over for wear and tear.

Would it be ok to reuse the old crush washer once? I'm planning on changing the oil and winterizing in a couple weeks so the bike won't really be used much at all on this oil change.

I already purchased some Shell Rotella T 5w40 and I'm about to order a K&N filter. My other question is (and this may be the wrong thread for it) is it really necessary to change the oil again in the spring? It just doesn't make much sense to me to change out perfectly good oil that has never even been used.

Would it be ok to reuse the old crush washer once? I'm planning on changing the oil and winterizing in a couple weeks so the bike won't really be used much at all on this oil change.

They're technically one use only, so the short answer is no... but for a winterizing change where you'll be changing it again in the spring, I don't see the harm.

I didn't have an extra crush washer available on my last change and just reused the old one, everything's been fine.

You'll get mixed opinions on the crush washer thing. Some will say that as long as you don't ever overtorque it, it will be fine to reuse it. I happen to think it's cheap insurance against potentially costly problems. If you do decide to reuse it, I'd absolutely recommend using a torque wrench.

I will be using a torque wrench but I have no idea if the previous owner did or not so I don't know what condition the crush washer is in. If I have time, I might just stop by the dealer and pick a couple up. I'm still undecided about changing my oil again in the spring so it may be a good idea to change the crush washer now. Is there anything else I need besides the oil, filter with O rings, and the crush washer?

Probably a funnel, a container for your old oil and possibly a cold beer :) Make sure it's not too tall if you're changing the oil on the sidestand! Er, the container, that is. Although I suppose having too tall of a beer might make bike maintenance difficult...

@kkim:

Thanks so much for this DIY and your help in the winterizing thread. I just completed my first oil change today and it was a breeze. Printed out the PDF of this thread someone created and got it done no sweat! Gave me the confidence to tackle other maitenance things now. Cheers!

glad it helped you. :thumbup:

learning to maintain your bike is a very rewarding experience. start with the easy stuff like oil changes and soon you'll be doing other items that you would normally pay a shop to do. save the money and use it to buy gear and mods! :dance:

Thank you for the DIY. It went to very good use today. :thumbup:

some one's been busy, I see.
:D

some one's been busy, I see.
:D

;)

What do you mean by grommets below? Are you talking about the top and bottom rubber portions of the filter that connect to the washer and cap?

[QUOTE=kkim;13608]
Apply a little engine oil to the grommets on both sides of the filter element and turn and work the filter element into place. Be careful that the element grommets do not slip out of place.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SUbYdqbCU7I/AAAAAAAAB-4/5CEp3LKUmfU/s640/DSC04865-1.JPG

grommets/washers that come already installed in the center hole of the filter. just make sure they are seated well and don't come out.

see the rubber grommet/washer in the center of the filter element?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SUbYTzP5nFI/AAAAAAAAB9w/lccRB7MVkcw/s640/DSC04856-1.JPG

grommets/washers that come already installed in the center hole of the filter. just make sure they are seated well and don't come out.

see the rubber grommet/washer in the center of the filter element?



Yup. Understood! Thanks.

Hey guys, quick question - can I re-use the O-rings?

yes, but why would you want to... unless the filter you bought didn't come with replacements?

yes, but why would you want to... unless the filter you bought didn't come with replacements?

Haha yeah. I bought the Kawi filter and it did not come with o-rings.

I know people who have reused the o rings when they purchased the kawi filter and found out it didn't come w/ them. Just make sure to purchase a filter that comes with o rings next time and change them out at your next oil change.

Thank you for this DIY. I just got done with my first oil change!!! Super helpful. :thumbup:

Thanks! And what size of crush gasket do I need to get?

Just recently finished with my oil change and went to a kawa dealer just for the crush washer. They told me it was a 12mm crush washer that is used for our bikes.

Question about the WIX Filters.

Per the WIX website, there appears to be 2 numbers.

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/motorcycle.asp

EX250 Ninja 250R 250cc (86-89) 24941
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=24941

EX250 Ninja 250R 250cc (90-07) 51358
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51358

The 51358 appears to be different than the 24941....being that I have an 09 Ninja, I want to be sure I purchase the correct filter.

Also, where do you purchase them from, on-line, local auto or motorcycle shop?

fwiw, I went to my local auto store (Kragens) and they have no listing for the 24941. They found a cross reference # (who knows where they got it from), but it's the wrong filter.

Thanks for any insight, as I am planning for an oil change soon :)

I've been using the 24941 on my '08 and it fits perfectly. Buying from a very small local store because the chain shops in the area don't carry WIX or anything else I trust.

the 51358 filter you listed most definately will not work in a stock new gen bike.

http://www.wixconnect.com/images/filters/3706_1.gif

Thanks for the replies.

Well, sadly, and three weeks later, I finally got the correct WIX filter (special order) from my local auto store. However, it did not come with the small rubber gasket.

Needless to say, looks like I will be looking for elswhere to purchase my WIX filter.

Hmm, couldn't find WIX anywhere, could barely find anythign else than fram and I'm not sure i want to use fram.

Also, some guy that owns a bike shop by me told me not to use 10w-40 as it is very useless and also that I MUST use motorcycle oil or else itll ruin my engine within 100 miles of use because it has a special "additive" but he just kept repeating that so im not sure how much i trust his knowledge.

Should I call the dealer i got my 1st service done with to see what kind of oil they used? I doubt they would have used synthetic correct? cuz i dont want to put conventional oil in if they did.

suggestions? advice? ridicule? ill take anyting

Hmm, couldn't find WIX anywhere, could barely find anythign else than fram and I'm not sure i want to use fram.

Also, some guy that owns a bike shop by me told me not to use 10w-40 as it is very useless and also that I MUST use motorcycle oil or else itll ruin my engine within 100 miles of use because it has a special "additive" but he just kept repeating that so im not sure how much i trust his knowledge.

Should I call the dealer i got my 1st service done with to see what kind of oil they used? I doubt they would have used synthetic correct? cuz i dont want to put conventional oil in if they did.

suggestions? advice? ridicule? ill take anyting

that "some guy" is confusing..... yeah, motorcycle-specific oil is a good thing but a dose of Rotella diesel oil will do ya good too. Just stay away from oils that are "energy conserving." The spew about 10w-40 is just that... 10W-40 oil is fine. When in doubt, use the weight(s) listed in your owner's manual.

Never mind what oil the dealer used... use what you want, be it dino oil or synthetics. If you're havin trouble finding a filter then get/order one from the dealer, get some motorcycle oil and go at it. Have fun! :thumbup:

I got a question. Has anyone picked up any 5w-40 Rotella lately. I was looking around because im due for an oil change soon. Anyways the bottle looked redesigned so I became alert and I looked at the back of the bottle and it said that it was supposed to help fuel economy, which I think means it has additives that are no bueno for a wet clutch system.

If anyone has any more info on this it would be much appreciated.

Mobile 5000 10w-40 and K&N 401 filter. The mobile 5000 shouldnt cause any problems correct?

Mobile 5000 10w-40 and K&N 401 filter. The mobile 5000 shouldnt cause any problems correct?

what's mobile 5000? :confused:

what's mobile 5000? :confused:

I think he means Mobil clean 5000, its Mobil's dino oil(for cars). I use it in my car, but I would not use it in my Ninja.

yea thats what i mean, my bad. so dont use it? some people said you can use car dino oil in ur bike

Im no expert on the subject, but I don't think you should use car oil in your bike. If your going to use something besides moto oil, you should use the synthetic rotella provided they have not changed the formula. A lot of people have used rotella in their moto with no ill effects.

There's nothing wrong with using most car oil, you just need to make sure not to use the ones with that "energy-saving" icon on them. The additives in those can be uber-slippery, and cause motorcycles with wet clutches (like ours) to potentially behave strangely.

Thanks Alex. That's what I have heard but I definitely want to be super careful considering its my first bike and I bought her new. For the 1st service they put in kawasaki brand oil, should I bother getting some or is it just as good as car oil.

And I made sure it wasn't the energy conserving oil.

There's nothing wrong with using most car oil, you just need to make sure not to use the ones with that "energy-saving" icon on them. The additives in those can be uber-slippery, and cause motorcycles with wet clutches (like ours) to potentially behave strangely.

Cool, I thought that might be the case, but I was not sure.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_oils_should_NOT_be_used%3F

The only thing I did different than what was posted about how to change the oil was I drained the oil from the plug shown and drained from the plug right next to the oil filter housing. Im guessing that is ok since oil came from both spots and may have drained old oil that might have been left if I had not done so.

I just changed my oil for the first time at 1000km, a little overdue, but oh well. anyway, i could only find shell rotella T6 not the regular T, so this is what i used, is this alright? also, when the engine is off and bike is standing up straight, the oil is JUST at the top of the sight level, too much oil or should i be ok? i also put in a K&N filter cuz it was the only one they had. :p

Keenan, is the oil you used synthetic? It is not really recommended to go synthetic before 1,000 miles=1,600 kms.

Keenan, is the oil you used synthetic? It is not really recommended to go synthetic before 1,000 miles=1,600 kms.

Yeah its full synthetic. Well i have heard from tons of different people, many different opinions of when to switch to synth. I feel that its not that big of a deal, and i have run my engine properly for that 1000km. The rings should be fairly set by now.

Can't seem to find anything but Rotella T 0w40 and 15w40 around here. Hopefully our locally Shell distributor might have some :pray:

I just changed my oil for the first time at 1000km, a little overdue, but oh well. anyway, i could only find shell rotella T6 not the regular T, so this is what i used, is this alright? also, when the engine is off and bike is standing up straight, the oil is JUST at the top of the sight level, too much oil or should i be ok? i also put in a K&N filter cuz it was the only one they had. :p

There is an oil change DIY here that is very useful. [EDIT: This is the DIY Oil change thread... I'm slow today :-p] After you start it for the first time and let it run for about 10 seconds, when you shut it off you will see that the oil level will have dropped, due to it soaking up the filter and engine parts. Then you need to top it off again.

To answer your question, by doing a Google search, you'll see that the T6 is okay, it is even JASO certified. Check out the updated Wikipedia page:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T

I guarantee you are 100% okay to run Synthetic early on. I've done this after doing extensive research. My personal opinion is you can put synthetic in it after you take it home from the dealer if you'd like.

I just changed my oil for the first time at 1000km, a little overdue, but oh well. anyway, i could only find shell rotella T6 not the regular T, so this is what i used, is this alright? also, when the engine is off and bike is standing up straight, the oil is JUST at the top of the sight level, too much oil or should i be ok? i also put in a K&N filter cuz it was the only one they had. :p

Just switched to Rotella T6 today myself. Though I am almost at 11,000 miles. Was using spectro before. There are 2 lines in the sight glass a max and a min. Don't want to be above the high (after oil change and bike has run a couple minutes to work its way through the system and filter), and obviously don't want to be below the min (lower line).

K&N filters are quality items. Would have put one in today if my local shop was open instead of my self inflicted aggravation.

How often is it best to change the oil, filter and rings? Ive changed the oil a few times in my bike and it now has 2k miles on it. Anything else besides the normal fluid checks should I do? Bike shop said something about bringing it to them to check valves. Is this needed or a waste of my money?

How often is it best to change the oil, filter and rings? Ive changed the oil a few times in my bike and it now has 2k miles on it. Anything else besides the normal fluid checks should I do? Bike shop said something about bringing it to them to check valves. Is this needed or a waste of my money?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10577

Another one to add:

Hiflofiltro: HF401
http://www.hiflofiltro.com/fileadmin/Code/images/small/hf401.jpg

http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=639

just to add my 2 cents.. i went to do my 1st oil change today, and CT was out of K&N filters... i have a kawi filter, but no rings, so a buddy came over with a hiflo filter... it looks almost the same as the K&N and he said he read online somewhere that hiflo makes K&N?

anyways... the package clearly says on the outside that it replaces the Kawasaki: 16099-003. The filter was the right size, but once i got going i realized that the O rings didnt fit! The tiny one was ok, but the bigger one was too big.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Oil_Filters

yeah i just wanted to let people know my experience with that filter... i cant believe it says on the box that its the same, but the o ring was useless.

i'm doing early oil changes anyhow, cause i am breaking in my bike, so it wont be in there very long! :)

Did my oil change last night with the new Rotella T6 and come to find out that i do not have a washer where the spring is and don't remember ever having one. When i take the whole bolt filter off i always put it on an old clean towel then take everything apart on it so i don't loose anything. Will have to go to the dealership and buy one along with a few crush washers too.

My shifting has greatly improved after changing from Kawasaki synthetic to Rotella T6. No more clunking just a little clunk going from neutral to first. :thumbup:

is the washer inbetween the filter and spring one that we need to replace each time as well? i keep hearing about replacing the crush washer, but nothing about the other one.

p.s. what size is the crush washer?

The washer between the filter and the spring does not need to be replaced as far as i know but i was just shocked that i didn't have one, i've never noticed it in the pics before. Someone mentioned here somewhere that it is a 12mm crush washer but i would just go to the dealership and buy them there since they're inexpensive and the dealership would know exactly which ones.

come to find out that i do not have a washer where the spring is and don't remember ever having one.

the washer pictured here that is between the spring and filter?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SUbYTzP5nFI/AAAAAAAAB9w/lccRB7MVkcw/s640/DSC04856-1.JPG

if so, next time you do an oil change, have a replacement ready and install it. perhaps the washer got stuck to the filter the first time you changed the oil? in any case, I would install one next time.
:)

My bike came with two washers. Maybe they gave me yours? :D

just to add my 2 cents.. i went to do my 1st oil change today, and CT was out of K&N filters... i have a kawi filter, but no rings, so a buddy came over with a hiflo filter... it looks almost the same as the K&N and he said he read online somewhere that hiflo makes K&N?

anyways... the package clearly says on the outside that it replaces the Kawasaki: 16099-003. The filter was the right size, but once i got going i realized that the O rings didnt fit! The tiny one was ok, but the bigger one was too big.


Do any of you fellow canadians have an idea of the WIX or Napa part number for the thier filter? Went by yesterday, with a bunch of cross-ref numbers and left empty handed.

Has anyone had experience with Royal Purple break-in oil? I know that royal purple is known worldwide for it's highest quality oils.. but has any of you guys tried this?

http://www.royalpurple.com/productsi/break-in-oil.jpg

I have not tried any type of break-in oil but today or tomorrow I am going to change my oil and bought Royal Purple 10W-40 full synthetic. I usualy buy Mobil-1 10W-40 full synthetic but they were out. I will let you know if I feel any difference.

if so, next time you do an oil change, have a replacement ready and install it. perhaps the washer got stuck to the filter the first time you changed the oil? in any case, I would install one next time.
:)

Yup that's the one. I'll pick a couple up next time just in case they disappear :)

what the heck is break in oil? lol... i'm such a newbie... i get that you use regular till its broken in, then synthetic, but whats the diff with break in oil?

And i thought oil was oil...

don't worry joyce this is the first i've heard of this break in oil too

And i thought oil was oil...

don't worry joyce this is the first i've heard of this break in oil too

whew! there's so much to learn! and everywhere i turn everyone has a different opinion :confused:

Joyce,
just stick with conventional oil (dino) and switch to synthetic after the break-in period is over and you will be fine. Don't worry about "break-in oil". That's mainly for high-performance outomobile engines that get rebuilt.

Dunno about the break-in oil, but I've been very pleased with the Royal Purple 10w-40. Clutch shifts like warm butter in every gear but N to 1 which still has that 'thunk' but it's a lot lighter than other ninjettes I've heard. No slippage to mention at 11,500mi.

Do any of you fellow canadians have an idea of the WIX or Napa part number for the thier filter? Went by yesterday, with a bunch of cross-ref numbers and left empty handed.

I went to a local parts shop and asked for WIX # 24941. Didn't get one cause the warehouse was closed that day and had to wait so went to crappy tire and got the K&N instead.

what the heck is break in oil? lol... i'm such a newbie... i get that you use regular till its broken in, then synthetic, but whats the diff with break in oil?
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/When_can_I_change_to_synthetic_oil%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_really_have_to_follow_this_break-in_period%3F

This will help you better understand the purpose of "break in" :thumbup:

Look what i found today. Came home after working and saw an oil filter box from my second oil change still sitting next to my carport. Was waiting for hazardous waste pick up in my area to dispose of it. Opened the box and voila just like kkim suspected, my washer :D

Found a little surface rust on it though since it was buried in the snow but at least now i have a part to show my dealer to get another one.

The same thing must have happened to mine because I don't remember having one the last time I changed my oil.

This is for Rage42, since i dont have his email.... he wanted to know what my rotella T bottle looks like!


BTW, i bought mine at a Wal-mart for $19.99 (1 gal. thats 2 oil changes roughly)

hope this helps, if pics arent good enuff... just let me know and ill retake some and update them! OKie?

ttyl

-dave

Anyone read the manual? I think it said do not use oil that service SM vehicles. It saids to use SL

Anyone read the manual? I think it said do not use oil that service SM vehicles. It saids to use SL

that's not what my manual reads. :confused:

that's not what my manual reads. :confused:

What does your manual read?

In mine, on page 88, under "Recommended engine oil"

Type: API se, sf, sg, sh, sj, or SL with JASO, ma, ma1, ma2.
Viscosity: SAE 10w-40

If you search for API_ratings.pdf you'll find out that all of the oil type: se, sf, sg, sh, sj are obsolete and they no longer use them, instead the replace it with SL. SM are for 2004+ vehicles only while SL listed as: for 2004 and older engines.

yep, that's what my manual reads to... I'm sort of lost as to your previous post?

Meh

Meh

:confused:

Heres my pics that i took of my Rotella T 5w-40 last year.







I dunno if they changed the bottle, or What this New Rotella T6 stuff looks like...

or what the API readings on the back are???

(someone needs to post a CLEAR CLOSE UP PIC of their bottle of the newer bottle of Rotella T6!!!)

So if you see... and your page 88 manual, manual dont say **** about CJ-4, CI-4,etc!

Ive wondered about my Rotella T all winter as my bike sat, about changing it.

As today i got home and bought some Amsoil 10w-40 motorcycle oil and im going to change it once i get a part for my bike, so i can ride it up to work to change my oil
(where i live im NOT allowed to work on cars,etc, a enviormental hazard and can be FINED if caught!)

I did read somewhere (cant remb where thou) about the API ratings of obselete ratings of SM,blah blah, but bottom line is...

The Rotella T pics of the stuff i used in my ninja, i think is the WRONG OIL to use in these Bikes!!! :mad:

Heres my pics that i took of my Rotella T 5w-40 last year.







I dunno if they changed the bottle, or What this New Rotella T6 stuff looks like...

or what the API readings on the back are???

(someone needs to post a CLEAR CLOSE UP PIC of their bottle of the newer bottle of Rotella T6!!!)

So if you see... and your page 88 manual, manual dont say **** about CJ-4, CI-4,etc!

Ive wondered about my Rotella T all winter as my bike sat, about changing it.

As today i got home and bought some Amsoil 10w-40 motorcycle oil and im going to change it once i get a part for my bike, so i can ride it up to work to change my oil
(where i live im NOT allowed to work on cars,etc, a enviormental hazard and can be FINED if caught!)

I did read somewhere (cant remb where thou) about the API ratings of obselete ratings of SM,blah blah, but bottom line is...

The Rotella T pics of the stuff i used in my ninja, i think is the WRONG OIL to use in these Bikes!!! :mad:

Yea do not use oil that service SM vehicles or anything with a C. You need to get one that said "Service SL" vehicles.

After all, the bottle i bought it does say that its used for Diesel engines. Im not trying to start a fight here , but

Im just weiry of using Rotella T 5W-40 in the future for my bike!

I dont wanna see my Tranny end up like that one person's on the fourms here, "Changed the oil and found this" defect thread! :eek:

Like sumin outta "Mythbusters" Until someone sets up a Motorcycle Oil test, using 2 Ninja 08-10 250Rs, 1 with Rotella T, and the other with Amsoil 10w-40 (or Mobil 1,etc) and run both bikes for 100,000 miles with oil changes between 3-5k miles and such... to see if one of the 250R motors blows up... is beyond me! :D

I spent $19.99 on the rotella T at walmart, i spent $21.00 on 2 quarts of the Amsoil 10w-40!

Diesel Engines are engineered to burn diesel fuel, which has to be compressed at a higher level than a gasoline engine, in order to ignite and burn.

What does your manual read?

In mine, on page 88, under "Recommended engine oil"

Type: API se, sf, sg, sh, sj, or SL with JASO, ma, ma1, ma2.
Viscosity: SAE 10w-40

If you search for API_ratings.pdf you'll find out that all of the oil type: se, sf, sg, sh, sj are obsolete and they no longer use them, instead the replace it with SL. SM are for 2004+ vehicles only while SL listed as: for 2004 and older engines.

Aye, so SM would be intact with the 2004 & newer vehicles, but still the manual page 88 doesnt state 'SM' in there. My ninja is a 2009 and to Print a Manual with such info w/o "SM" is Odd. That and Rotella T (my pics) do show at bottom, "API:SM in gasoline engines" but its supposed to be formulaed for Diesel engines?

:beatdeadhorse:




Look at the specs and approvals.....



http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html