I just got back from my dealer (just for fun trip), and while I was there decided to pick-up some oil and talk to the service dept. to get a quote for my upcoming 7.5K service. It came out to ~ $410!!!!! CRAP, I knew I needed to put some $$ aside, but that is almost double what I anticipated. At least this includes a valve adjustment. I asked if it cost the same if it didn't need the adjustment, it does cost the same. I think everything is more expensive in CA.

I asked him how much to put on my 15T sprocket. Long story, but I tried all the tricks and can't break the nut off. The good news is he said he would do it for FREE if I brought it in at the same time.

I'm planning a re-jet, so I thought I would also ask how much for that too. I was planning to do it myself, but if it was cheap and easy, so much the better. He said for all this work we may be able to work a deal, but I think he said ~$175 for the re-jet. The only thing is I don't think we where on the same page about that. He didn't seem to think it was needed with stock set-up and mentioned it was currently set-up for EPA regs..... which I understand, but I don't care about that. He acknowledged its leanness and said he could make some adjustments, but he didn't say anything about replacing jet or needles, mainly just adjustments. So I don't know if it would be worth it to have him touch it..... I don't know.

I'd look for a good independent shop to just inspect the valve clearance and adjust the valves, if needed, and do the rest of the service myself to save money.

Have you looked into toku's DIY on changing the sprockets and how to break the nut loose?

I'd look for a good independent shop to just inspect the valve clearance and adjust the valves, if needed, and do the rest of the service myself to save money.

Have you looked into toku's DIY on changing the sprockets and how to break the nut loose?

I made the mistake of spending $400 on the extended warrentee.... so there is, of course, now the added expense of maintaining the warrentee... sucks! I keep all receipts, so I can prove I'm changing the oil (every 1000 to 2000 mi.), but I honestly don't know anyplace close that will work on bikes, other than the dealer.

I'll check toku's DIY, but my hunch is I have tried it all. The dealer should have more hands and muscle available.... and my impact wrench is a cheaper one, so their beefy one may make a difference. And if they break it, they are the ones responsible :D But if he does it for free, there really is no down side at all. I am hoping that after he does it, it should be easier to get the nut off at home if I ever want to put the old sprocket back on.

I made the mistake of spending $400 on the extended warrentee.... so there is, of course, now the added expense of maintaining the warrentee... sucks! I keep all receipts, so I can prove I'm changing the oil (every 1000 to 2000 mi.), but I honestly don't know anyplace close that will work on bikes, other than the dealer.

I'll check toku's DIY, but my hunch is I have tried it all. The dealer should have more hands and muscle available.... and my impact wrench is a cheaper one, so their beefy one may make a difference. And if they break it, they are the ones responsible :D But if he does it for free, there really is no down side at all. I am hoping that after he does it, it should be easier to get the nut off at home if I ever want to put the old sprocket back on.
Where exactly are you located? Perhaps another member in your area can make a recommendation.

I'd still try to find an independent. You paid for the warranty, but they get you back through high service costs, as you are finding out. Nothing you can do but keep your warranty in effect, but that doesn't mean a dealer needs to do the work.

As for the sprocket, instead of an impact gun, use a socket and a breaker bar if your gun doesn't have enough oomph. Did you try raising the air pressure at the compressor to the max allowed by the gun? If using a socket and breaker bar, put the 2x4 through the wheel as toku suggested, then using your weight on the breaker bar, step on the bar or kick the bar downwards. It should break the nut. It's the shock that will loosen it. Make sure the bike is in neutral to avoid having any of that shock go through your transmission output shaft.

You did fully straighten out the locking tab on the sprocket washer before attempting to loosen, correct? :)

I am in the Sacramento area. Actually very near the city with the state prison is (being slightly vague since this is public, but if you are from here you know exactly what I mean).

I tried every trick you mentioned. I was afraid of breaking something and dropping the bike (tried two different "spotters" to help).

how long was the breaker bar? if needed, put a section of pipe on the end of the breaker bar to increase leverage.

are you sure you have the washer completely bent flat?

My breaker is 2' and I can't remember if I used the pipe.... I may not have if I was afraid of breaking something and my spotter was having trouble holding the bike under pressure (with and without stands). Also didn't want to strip the sides of the nut, it slipped off a couple times.

Yes, the washer was completely bent flat, I triple checked this and then flattened more for good measure. I actually tried getting it off like 3 different times.

Also didn't want to strip the sides of the nut, it slipped off a couple times.



With a good quality metric socket, it shouldn't be slipping off. That's not a good sign... you are using a metric socket? Use a pipe extension if you didn't the last time... 2' is not going to cut it.

To keep it from slipping, as you work the breaker bar down, have a spotter hold the socket at a right angle to the nut to insure you're not applying force at an angle.

last thing... lefty loosy, righty tighty! :p

I have lived aboard a sailboat for 14 years. In the saltwater environment it is not uncommon to have 'FROZEN" bolts. There is a product available in aerosol cans called FreeAll. This stuff is incredible and will help break free the most stubborn fastener. It may be worth buying a can of FreeAll for your arsenal.

The socket is the correct size and of decent quality (duralast - Autozone's nicer line of tools). I did get the deep socket, thinking I would have more faring clearance, but it does increase the risk of slipping. Part of the problem is even with a spotter on the bike, holding the breaks & 2x4 in the wheel spokes, it still felt like everything was flexing.... I also tried WD40 on the nut, haven't tried other products. This thing is stubborn.

Maybe the it got overtightened, I took mine off over the weekend and took my ratchet and put into my son's hockey stick as leverage and a 2 by 4 on the rear wheel and have no problem taken it off. :D

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr25/mikael50619/PC270137.jpg

I am in the Sacramento area. Actually very near the city with the state prison is (being slightly vague since this is public, but if you are from here you know exactly what I mean).

I tried every trick you mentioned. I was afraid of breaking something and dropping the bike (tried two different "spotters" to help).

whoa, im in sac too and also coming up to the 7500mi service. PCP quoted me at $350 parts and labor and Goodtimes in Roseville quoted me at $240 labor + parts (~$95).

I also talked to the guy in davis at Davis Motorsports and he said that service shouldn't be more than $250. I'm gonna go get a quote from him soon. Of course, it isn't a dealer so i dunno how that would help you and your extended warrenty.

WOW- that is worth looking into.... only problem is I'll have to coordinate with wife to pick up, but that is a minor thing.



Thanks for the info!

I bet CA is going to send goons after me now for admitting I have a lead pipe.

nah :p just make sure to wash your hands after you touch it.

I'm not sure if you were asking me, but this was resolved years ago ;)
I do all my own work now. This saves, and costs me, a ton of $$.

I just brought the bike back from having it serviced before the summer.

It was mostly inspecting everything, lubing everything. They added some brake fluid. And also installed fender eliminator for me.

I paid $225 for all the labor (I had my own fender kit). I thought it was expensive, since they didnt really do anything (not counting the fender kit), but maybe it was ok....


Not to highjack, but looking for advice thats kind of related. My dealer charges $65 dollars per tire to mount new ones. Is that reasonable?

My dealer charges $65 dollars per tire to mount new ones. Is that reasonable?

Nope.
That's twice what I've heard. I you ride much, thereby needing frequent tire replacements (once a year or less), I highly recommend learning to do it yourself.

Nope.
That's twice what I've heard. I you ride much, thereby needing frequent tire replacements (once a year or less), I highly recommend learning to do it yourself.

That idea of changing and balancing tires is intimidating, at the least. I might be wrong, but I did look at DYIs on that, and it does not look like anything I would even be willing to attempt.

Also, on the quote: They charge $35 dollars per tire if I bring just the rims. And $65 if the wheels are on the bike. Maybe thats why it seems twice as expensive? I was planning on bringing the entire bike in.

Thanks for your reply though.

That idea of changing and balancing tires is intimidating, at the least. I might be wrong, but I did look at DYIs on that, and it does not look like anything I would even be willing to attempt.

Also, on the quote: They charge $35 dollars per tire if I bring just the rims. And $65 if the wheels are on the bike. Maybe thats why it seems twice as expensive? I was planning on bringing the entire bike in.

Thanks for your reply though.

OK, that does make more sense then about the different prices.

My advice to you is to read several DIYs from different sources, and watch a handful of youtube videos. This way you understand the procedure, see it done, and eventually can picture yourself doing it.... this worked for me, and I saved a ton of $$. If you are new to riding, it may be prudent to pay the dealer to change your tire the first time, while you get used to riding more, and taking on more basic maintenance of your bike. By the time it is time to change your next tire, you will likely be ready for it. I usually do it by myself, but it is always much easier with a buddy too.

I just watched the video above (new one for me), and I learn something new every time. I never thought of using the rope on the rim protectors to hold the spoon! :thumbup:

My local shops arte quoting me from $260-350 for the 7,500mi servicing/valve adjustment.

I hate the fact it's so expensive, but maybe one of these days I can learn to do it myself.

My advice to you is to read several DIYs from different sources, and watch a handful of youtube videos. This way you understand the procedure, see it done, and eventually can picture yourself doing it.... this worked for me, and I saved a ton of $$. If you are new to riding, it may be prudent to pay the dealer to change your tire the first time, while you get used to riding more, and taking on more basic maintenance of your bike. By the time it is time to change your next tire, you will likely be ready for it. I usually do it by myself, but it is always much easier with a buddy too.

That is very good advice! Thank you!

Well, the valves should be inspected at 7500 miles but it's likely they won't need adjustment. Engines todays are built and assembled very, very well.