Hi Everyone,

I am wanting to mod my 08 250R and what I am wanting to achive is a better sounding bike (more of a rumble sound than the stock sewing machine sound!) and making the bike have a smoother, better power curve and more power in general.

I am looking at getting an AreaP full exhaust system (this I would prefer down the list as it is expensive) and installing an aftermarket jet kit and shimming it, also removing the snorkle and I read removal of the Kleen air system is good with an after market exhaust.

Which order would be the best to do this? (keeping in mind the exhaust down the list, if possible (I have a trip overseas coming up in 3 months and it is expensive :D )) And considering I have VERY little knowledge of pulling a bike, or engine for that matter! apart (but I am keen on learning!) please advise how advanced each mod would be for me.

If there are other mods that you recommend, feel free to post them, and if a mod above should not be done, or done in a certain order etc feel free to post it. :)

Thanks! :D
David

EDIT: I think there should be a separate sub forum (or atleast sticky) all goods DIYs, cause I have read a few of these and they are great! big :thumbup: to the writers.

EDIT: I think there should be a separate sub forum (or atleast sticky) all goods DIYs, cause I have read a few of these and they are great! big :thumbup: to the writers.

Hi David -

The sticky you're looking for is right here (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5586).

Hi David -

The sticky you're looking for is right here (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5586). Hi Alex,

Yes, I see, so it is! :o Of all the stickys I looked at, I missed that one! :p *walks off to bed trying not to attract attention :o *

:rotflmao:

Great, I have made my goal for today (make someone :rotflmao: ) :D

Hi again David! I know this isn't really what you want to hear, but IMO you probably should look into the exhaust as one of the first mods, as you'll likely have to rejet afterward.... I also plan on going with the Area P, and thus far have only shimmed for now, as it was unbearable from the factory, but have held off on removing the snorkle or doing anything else in order to avoid making it too lean after I swap the system out. I figure I'll just go with baby steps....

I think I'm in the same boat as you buddy...I wanted to mod my bike to get some more power and better sound but wanted to save the exhaust till the end cause of the price. I've removed the snorkel first and just shimmed yesterday. REmoving the snorkel is probably the easiest and cheapest(FREE!!!) mod you could do. The bike sounds great with it off...gives you that rumble...and pulls a little harder. Shim next as the bike will probably will be running lean. This mod again just costs a couple cents. It's some work but I have no experience with really working on engines and I got it done yesterday and am very happy about it :). Then go with the exhaust and jet kit. Cant give you opinions of those...Havent done them yet:rolleyes:. Whatever you choose to do, have fun doing it, ride safe, and good luck!

Having done the entire process, one step at a time, my question is, how much money do you have to do this? If you have money for the exhaust, buy it now and when you install it, shim and remove snorkel at the same time.

If you don't have the money for the exhaust, shim and remove snorkel now... then add exhaust later, but you will need to reshim to compensate for the added exhaust.

Plugging the Kleen system can wait till the exhaust is installed.

I'd put off on a jet kit until everything is installed and you feel jetting is holding you back. Most will be satisfied with shimming for their bikes, so you may not need one. It depends on how picky you are about your bike's jetting. Before you say, "I want the very best for my bike", be prepared to jet and rejet many, many times with a jet kit to get things perfect... I'm still not done after months and months of playing with jetting.

Viper-Byte,

If you want to replace your factory muffler and don't want to spend alot of money, check out the following:

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/cmn/prodlist.jsp?store=Main&catId=403&np=&brandId=243

Here is a video with an example muffler from the above link:
g8cWiHJ8LMg

Here is the same bike with the snorkel removed and the factory muffler:
qn8USNDsUGI

:D

Could always gutt out the stock can! < 30 bucks isnt a bad price :)

Then you will be running and sounding better until you get cash up for the ap :thumbup:

Could always gutt out the stock can! < 30 bucks isnt a bad price :)

Then you will be running and sounding better until you get cash up for the ap :thumbup:

That is a great mod!! :)

Hi again David! I know this isn't really what you want to hear, but IMO you probably should look into the exhaust as one of the first mods, as you'll likely have to rejet afterward.... I also plan on going with the Area P, and thus far have only shimmed for now, as it was unbearable from the factory, but have held off on removing the snorkle or doing anything else in order to avoid making it too lean after I swap the system out. I figure I'll just go with baby steps.... Hi Kim! :D

Yeah, I was thinking that myself. My bike, I believe has been set with a good mix from the factory, correct me if I am wrong, but I have never had to use the choke in 4 months and after it is warm, there is no hessitation in the bottom end when taking off, so I believe it is not running lean? My main concern is getting the mixture setting incorrect and damaging the engine.

I think I'm in the same boat as you buddy...I wanted to mod my bike to get some more power and better sound but wanted to save the exhaust till the end cause of the price. I've removed the snorkel first and just shimmed yesterday. REmoving the snorkel is probably the easiest and cheapest(FREE!!!) mod you could do. The bike sounds great with it off...gives you that rumble...and pulls a little harder. Shim next as the bike will probably will be running lean. This mod again just costs a couple cents. It's some work but I have no experience with really working on engines and I got it done yesterday and am very happy about it :). Then go with the exhaust and jet kit. Cant give you opinions of those...Havent done them yet:rolleyes:. Whatever you choose to do, have fun doing it, ride safe, and good luck! Yeah, I read your thread titled what came first, the intake or exhaust and had good info in it. So, it would be fine to remove the snorkle and then shim if it is running lean? How can I tell if it is running lean? I think I will be going with the Area P as that sounds the best to me Jet kit I don't know, come to that bridge when I get to it.

Having done the entire process, one step at a time, my question is, how much money do you have to do this? If you have money for the exhaust, buy it now and when you install it, shim and remove snorkel at the same time.

If you don't have the money for the exhaust, shim and remove snorkel now... then add exhaust later, but you will need to reshim to compensate for the added exhaust.

Plugging the Kleen system can wait till the exhaust is installed.

I'd put off on a jet kit until everything is installed and you feel jetting is holding you back. Most will be satisfied with shimming for their bikes, so you may not need one. It depends on how picky you are about your bike's jetting. Before you say, "I want the very best for my bike", be prepared to jet and rejet many, many times with a jet kit to get things perfect... I'm still not done after months and months of playing with jetting. At present, I do not have any money for this due to my trip in 3 months, I have had to pay that now to secure the booking and everything. But I will take a look and see what the actual price for the exhaust system will be for me down here and to when I will be able to afford it.

I am fine with having to reshim later when I do have the full exhaust.

OK, I was looking at the jet kit that Area P can supply with the exhaust (dynojet), but I will hold off till and if it is actually needed.

Viper-Byte,

If you want to replace your factory muffler and don't want to spend alot of money, check out the following:

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/cmn/prodlist.jsp?store=Main&catId=403&np=&brandId=243

:D Thanks for the links, though I would prefer to only replace the exhaust with the full system, save time and money etc (I am happy to wait till I can replace it with the Area P.) :)

Could always gutt out the stock can! < 30 bucks isnt a bad price :)

Then you will be running and sounding better until you get cash up for the ap :thumbup: That is true, I will have a look at it, thanks.

Thanks everyone for the replies so far! :D

Okay, if looking to do this as cheaply as possible right now, yank the snorkel and ride the bike. If it gets hesitant or starts to stutter after pulling it, add a shim. :)

Have you read this post on shimming?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9465

Great, I have got 4 days off work coming up, so I should have heaps of time to pull the snorkle, test, and possibly shim if required.

Yes, I did read that thread yesterday, it has very good info (and was how I worked out my bike is not running lean), good job Kelly :thumbup:

David,

Pull the snorkel... it takes like 5 minutes, if that. If it runs lean, you can then plan to shim on your time off. The bike can run w/o damage with the snorkel removed, especially yours, which seems to be set up on the rich in the idle circuit anyway. :)

If you pull it and it runs lean and makes you nervous w/o shimming, the snorkel can be put back in (though it isn't an easy job) until you can shim.

Thanks Kelly, I was debating about pulling the snorkel tonight and you have just made up my mind! :D

I will test ride it to work tomorrow, a 60km round trip with 90% on the highway.

I thought it should be able to be put back in.

Just a question, doing things like this must be voiding the warranty, is that correct?

It will void the warranty if you have a problem with an area of the bike that you've touched. Say you burn up your engine cause you rejet and it's too lean... the warranty won't cover the blown engine. But, rejet your bike and you find you have a broken wheel, they cannot deny you warranty on the wheel just because you rejetted your bike.:)

Just be advised that if you have emission laws in your country, you are breaking the law by shimming your needles or putting on an aftermarket exhaust. From what I hear, NZ is not all that strict on bikes. Is that true?

pull the snorkel and go for a short ride, just to check it out.

Yeah, I thought that was the case, I am having issues with the rev counter reading higher that what it is and was just concerned that my mods may void the warranty for this. (am currently talking with dealer about it.)

From what I know, they are not strict, a lot of the cars here have got aftermarket exhausts and the bike shops sell aftermarket exhausts, so I assume I will be fine. It may pay for me to check that with the people in the know!

Yeah, I was going to pull it, test ride it around the bays near my place in the nice warm weather with the sun going down, no wind and the smell of the sea, great I say! :D then give it a longer run into work tomorrow.

You do know the tach is a common problem with these bikes, correct?

Yeah, pull the snorkel, have a ride around, then come back and let us know what you think. BTW, what time/day is it there now? It's 5pm/Monday in Hawaii.

Yep, I do and I have gone through the whole thread on this on KF and posted in there that I have the issue and checked everything they suggest in there. I also linked my dealer to the thread.

I plan on it :D

It is just over 4PM Tuesday here. Wow, almost a full day a head of you!

cool... still early for you. Go pull the snorkel and let us know the results. :D

Yep, I do and I have gone through the whole thread on this on KF and posted in there that I have the issue and checked everything they suggest in there. I also linked my dealer to the thread.

I plan on it :D

It is just over 4PM Tuesday here. Wow, almost a full day a head of you!

It's so weird that you're only 1 time zone, but 23 hours apart!

It's so weird that you're only 1 time zone, but 23 hours apart!

international date line? :confused:

cool... still early for you. Go pull the snorkel and let us know the results. :D Yeah, just got to finish work first! Though I only have 15 mins.

It's so weird that you're only 1 time zone, but 23 hours apart! I know, I was surprised myself at first as I didn't think the time gap was that big.

international date line? :confused:

well, yes, I realize that, but it's just weird conceptually - so close, yet so far.....

well, yes, I realize that, but it's just weird conceptually - so close, yet so far..... Don't you mean so close, yet so long ;) :D

Right, snorkel removed and I have mixed emotions about it...

The good: It sounds so good with the deep rumbling, specially on WOT :D

The bad: it has degraded the low end performance badly, is still fine for taking off, but it is REALLY noticable how it has reduced the power. The mid and high have also been affected, but not as much as the low from what I could tell. :(

I guess the requirement is to shim the carbs?

hmmm... yes, the fix would be to shim the carbs. sorry to hear the results were not what you were expecting (or me either, for that matter). It should have at least gave the top end an easier run to redline... did it do that? I can see where it might have affected the midrange a bit.

You can stick the snorkel back in, but like I said, it is a bit of a pain. I lubed mine up good with a rubber protectorant to make it slippery to slide back into place. I went from the inside of the airbox and pulled it back out to reinstall. Take out the filter when you do for more hand room.

sorry, man. :o

Yeah, I was expecting a drop in performance, just not that much. No matter, I can shim the carbs :) Yes, it felt like once it hit the 9-13, it was smooth, it seemed very close to stock, now that I think about it, the top was a lot smoother, but I still think it lost a little power (I can't really tell over that run as the wind was really bad and affected the feel of the bike at high speed)

Will it be fine to ride to work with it running as it is now, or would you suggest shimming before riding anymore with the snorkel out?

It's all good, all engines are different :)

Was there any stuttering or hesitation in the mid range while cruising? (a definite sign the bike is lean) How about start up? Any differences there?

If not, you should be good to ride. I ran around with one shim, a full AreaP exhaust and the snorkel out and the bike would hesitate while cruising. Adding more shims cured my problem.

While crusing at a constant speed, and accelerating, no, it is fine, it doesn't hesitate as such, it just takes a while to wind up till it hits the upper mid range. I tested it in 3 and 4th gears and going from constant throttle to WOT starting at 4.5K and going to about 9k and it is slow from 4.5k to about 6.5-7k, where it starts to get more power down. Startup is fine, no change there, idle is fine, it seems to only be the lower range where most of the power is lost causing a bit of a lag.

Oh OK, can you define what you mean by hesitate? so I know if we are talking the same symptoms.

I guess "hesitate" could be described as a sort of pronounced lag. Twist the throttle and it takes some time before the engine will "catch" to spin up. It sounds like your bike is now just a bit lean in the midrange, but still rideable. When I got mine, stock, it had no power under 6k and very little top end above 11k.

I would say you are safe to use the bike. As a precaution, listen for any signs of pinging (denotation) on hard acceleration, but I really doubt you will hear any. I never heard any on my bike, with all the different jetting configurations it's been through, so this is strictly a precaution.

Hmm, yes, I guess it is hesitating a little in the low-mid range in that case, so, sounds like there is shimming to be done! Oh OK, sounds like you got one that was really not set well from the factory!

Cool, it would be a pain to put the snorkel back in for a day and pull it out again. I didn't notice any while testing it, though it does have a sort of tick to it in the mid-high range, this was even before the snorkel was removed (about 8-10K I THINK, I have not taken much notice of it)

:eek: *recovers from heart attack* I have just seen the price of the 2 bros full carbon fibre exhaust from a NZ store. $1600 NZD!! Needless to say, I am looking at other places. (yes, I know it is the AreaP I want, but that was to get a rough price of a full system...)

The AP will run you about $1000 in NZD. That is the reason I went with Area P after comparing the quality, price and performance to the other systems available. Kerry, the owner/founder of Area P, is a member of this board, in case you didn't know. :)

Ah, cool, that is great as I was wanting to spend about NZD$1000 max on the exhaust system. I have already emailed them via website asking for a quote including shipping to NZ.

Oh OK, cool. What is his username?

kbryant

Kelly, you are correct on the price of the AP, it is just over NZD$1000. I will have to talk with the insurance company and see if they will allow me to put this on before I get it, I know, I should have done that first... ;) if all is good with them, next payday I should be able to order it!

So in short, what I am going to do at present, is put the snorkel back in as it is not nice to ride at low RPMs without shimming and then once I get the AP (dependant on insurance), then I will install the exhaust, pull the snorkel and shim all at the same time.

That sounds like an excellent plan. :thumbup:

Just curious, if you don't mind sharing, what was the price of your bike when you bought it in NZD?

Yeah, sure. The bike retailed for NZD$6995 + On Road Costs (about another $350) in Winter when I got mine and now the are $7495 +ORC in Summer. Though I got a good deal from the dealer as my grandad has been buying his farm quads from him for years :D

7,345.00 NZD = 4,238.97 USD

So, you paid about what we are paying here for our bikes. Is that a typical price you paid or was that extra low due to the connection?:)

That is the typical retail price for the bikes that anyone will get, mine was lower ;). Wow, I though it would be a lot dearer than that.

That is at today's conversion rates... it could have been a lot different when you purchased yours.

Right, so I have decided to shim and remove the snorkel, I have got all the parts I need and I have got all panels and tank off, 3 of the 4 screws off the left side of the carb, I am having issues with the 4th, it is VERY tight and I can see that there is a high chance that I could strip it, are there any secrets to getting these out without stripping them?. If I do strip it, what are the ways to get the screw out?

I plan on replacing these with allen hex bolts as I believe these will be easier to access.

Press downward as hard as you can, then start applying sideways torque to unscrew. If you are using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver with nice new splines, it should come undone. Make sure you use a relatively new screwdriver. Old ones, with eaten up splines, will strip it quickly.

OK, I was pressing down as hard as I could (arms literally shaking! Ha ha ha) and tried, the screw driver I am using is an unused screw drive that I have had for about a year.

I have even tried a little CRC right under the screw head (being sure not to get any on the head) and that has failed. Now it looks like I have stripped the screw... Great... The worst of the 2 things I didn't want to happen has happened... MURPHY!!! :mad:

Any suggestions now? :(

Only thing I can think of is pulling the carb out completely and drilling the screw out :eek:

OK, I was pressing down as hard as I could (arms literally shaking! Ha ha ha) and tried, the screw driver I am using is an unused screw drive that I have had for about a year.

I have even tried a little CRC right under the screw head (being sure not to get any on the head) and that has failed. Now it looks like I have stripped the screw too far... Great... The worst of the 2 things I didn't want to happen has happened... MURPHY!!! :mad:

Any suggestions now? :(

Only thing I can think of is pulling the carb out completely and drilling the screw out :eek:

grab the head of the screw with a vise grip and try breaking it loose that way.

http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/Vise-Grip%20set.jpg

Great idea, but I am able to get them onto the head, and twist, but they slip off and I have tried clamping them as hard as I can.

It is the screw at the front of the bike on the right (looking at while in riding position)

do you have an impact screwdriver... the type you hit with hammer? Sometimes the shock will loosen the screw.

No, I do not have an impact screwdriver.

that might help... it's saved my a$$ many a time throughout the years, though at this point, it may be a lost cause.

BTW, you do realize the Phillip's screws are not really Phillip's screws, but some other type of head, right? there is a post in here in the tech section about the proper drivers to use, but a #2 Phillip's has always worked for me. :(

In the future, it probably will help, but right now it is useless. :(

I did not know that... Though the #2 screwdriver went into the screw head solid.

Bike is getting put back together now... As there seems to be nothing else that will be able to get a fully stripped screw out without ripping the carbs out and drilling the screw out...

do you have the allens on hand to replace them with right now?

No sadly, I do not and the hardware shop has closed for today... I was to caught up trying to get the screw out to realise they closed at 4.30 :rolleyes:

Sorry to hear that, but this is why I mentioned leaving a lot of time to do this (or any DIY project, for that matter)... you never know what problem you might encounter.

Yep, I realise that. But at this stage, I am not confident enough to take the carbs out to drill the screw out, so the only thing I can do is put everything back together. :(

BTW, you do realize the Phillip's screws are not really Phillip's screws, but some other type of head, right? there is a post in here in the tech section about the proper drivers to use, but a #2 Phillip's has always worked for me. :(


found the thread...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9910

found the thread...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9910 Hmm, very interesting. I guess that is a good reason to swap out the screw to allen bolts :)

Well today has not been a fully bad day, some good has come out of it. The insurance company said that I am all good for my mods as long as the cost of the parts does not exceed 30% of the insured cost. So I shal be ordering the full AreaP long carbon in the next week or two and see how I can get this *@#%&^$ screw out of the carbs :( then shim and desnorkel.

Would it be an idea to get a jet kit and install that at the same time as the AP (as it looks like I will have to take the carbs out to get the screw out) with changing the jet settings on the likes of a Dynojet kit, I assume that is the same as the stock needles and there is not need to remove the carbs?

Well, I'm a bit late chiming in - sorry I didn't see this last night - one of the tips I've read somewhere, though I'm not sure where, was to be sure to push down on the cap as the spring pushing it back up can cause it to have more pressure and make the screws nearly impossible to remove....
if you're like me you did the three easier ones first and saved the one right under the frame for last - which in addition to being hard to get to, now has more pressure from the spring underneath pushing on it....
Haven't tested this myself, but might be worth trying that one first and then the others....
Again, sorry I popped in so late :(

Would it be an idea to get a jet kit and install that at the same time as the AP (as it looks like I will have to take the carbs out to get the screw out) with changing the jet settings on the likes of a Dynojet kit, I assume that is the same as the stock needles and there is not need to remove the carbs?

If you are going to pull the carbs anyway, a jet kit now makes a lot of sense. One of the needs to pull the carbs to install a jet kit is so that one can adjust the mixture screws which live under tamper proof caps from the factory. If you have the carbs out anyway, that would be a perfect time to adjust them and install the jet kit. Dyno jet or Factory Pro... your choice. :)

Check out the DIYs in the tech section... there have been many ingenious ways people have devised to get around pulling the carbs to rejet, but in your case, to remove the that stripped screw, it seems inevitable.

Well, I'm a bit late chiming in - sorry I didn't see this last night - one of the tips I've read somewhere, though I'm not sure where, was to be sure to push down on the cap as the spring pushing it back up can cause it to have more pressure and make the screws nearly impossible to remove....
if you're like me you did the three easier ones first and saved the one right under the frame for last - which in addition to being hard to get to, now has more pressure from the spring underneath pushing on it....
Haven't tested this myself, but might be worth trying that one first and then the others....
Again, sorry I popped in so late :( Hmm, you know, that makes a lot of sense and I can see that it would actually work in theory. Note to self, loosen each screw a little at a time starting with the hard to reach ones first.

If you are going to pull the carbs anyway, a jet kit now makes a lot of sense. One of the needs to pull the carbs to install a jet kit is so that one can adjust the mixture screws which live under tamper proof caps from the factory. If you have the carbs out anyway, that would be a perfect time to adjust them and install the jet kit. Dyno jet or Factory Pro... your choice. :)

Check out the DIYs in the tech section... there have been many ingenious ways people have devised to get around pulling the carbs to rejet, but in your case, to remove the that stripped screw, it seems inevitable. Yeah, though you said that with aftermarket jet kits, it takes a lot of tuning to get them right, correct? I would prefer not to have to reshim every weekend if posible, though I guess it is just how I feel the bike to be running and how I want it to run. :)

Yeah, though you said that with aftermarket jet kits, it takes a lot of tuning to get them right, correct? I would prefer not to have to reshim every weekend if posible, though I guess it is just how I feel the bike to be running and how I want it to run. :)
Once you get the Allens in to replace the stock crap, reshimming will be a piece of cake. Sorry that your reshimming experience has been spoiled by that stripped screw. :(

Once you get the Allens in to replace the stock crap, reshimming will be a piece of cake. Sorry that your reshimming experience has been spoiled by that stripped screw. :( Yeah, it has kinda put a damper on things, so bad that I have just been to a workshop to find out how much all this will be for labour... $80-90 an hour :eek:

Don't be discouraged. :) You'll work through this and will be all smiles once all the work has been completed. This will change your bike.

What would joy be without sorrow? :p

It is hard not to be, though I am trying to forget about this and jump in again and get it sorted my self so I can save a good few $100 :eek:

The guy at the shop said to install the exhaust and it will run fine. I said to him what about rejetting and shimming, the snorkel and Kleen air system removal (the cheaper stuff). He said it will run fine without this and there is too much time involved in all of this for the small HP gains.

Easy for him to say as he's never ridden anything but a stock 250R, plus he's not getting any money out of you doing your own work. Sour kiwi fruit, I say. :p

Personally, I wouldn't trust my bike to any dealer to work on... especially one that has his attitude about this bike.

Your real reward will be when the bike is completed and you know the work was done yourself. There is a certain self satisfaction that comes with any modification made.

Recover and re energize and we'll be here to help when you pick up. :)

Yeah, I know. They only have a shop model 250R which has a Yoshi can on it (not a full system) I thought he would have been trying to say yes, do this, that and the next thing and pay us 2 weeks worth of your pay :p

Yeah, after talking to him, has put me off going there for work.

I know about the satasfaction part of it. I am just concerned about doing something that will damage the bike and voiding the warranty, though if I take things slow and allow a lot of time to ensure I put everything back as it was I should be all good.

I have got my HID headlights on order, so I will be installing them when they arrive :D

He said it will run fine without this and there is too much time involved in all of this for the small HP gains.

I agree with Kkim, this guy has obviously only ridden a stock 250. The night I shimmed my needles and rode my bike around the block twice, the difference was VERY noticeable. And now taking sharp low speed turns in 1st trying to keep the throttle as smooth as possible - is actually possible. Before when I was trying to make U-turns the throttle would be so choppy that I'd almost dump the bike, get frustrated, and either put my feet down and waddle around with the bike or just take the long way.

And all I've done is take out the snorkle. No aftermarket exhaust. I just wanted the extra oomph outta the bike in low speeds and I got it. :p

I agree with Kkim, this guy has obviously only ridden a stock 250. The night I shimmed my needles and rode my bike around the block twice, the difference was VERY noticeable. And now taking sharp low speed turns in 1st trying to keep the throttle as smooth as possible - is actually possible. Before when I was trying to make U-turns the throttle would be so choppy that I'd almost dump the bike, get frustrated, and either put my feet down and waddle around with the bike or just take the long way.

And all I've done is take out the snorkle. No aftermarket exhaust. I just wanted the extra oomph outta the bike in low speeds and I got it. :p Yeah, I know, I don't believe him myself. I also know that there will be a positive difference in the bikes performance with the throttle control at low speeds and also in the high end.

On a side note, my HIDs have arrived! Woot :D

An update:

I have installed the HIDs, take a look at the DIY HID Headlight Conversion thread (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11413) where I have posted.

While I was installing the HIDs, I was feeling confident enough to pull out the carbs to try get the screw out, I followed a DYI on Kawiforums here (http://www.kawiforums.com/showthread.php?t=111046) and got them out, I must say that it was actually easier than what I thought, there are not nearly as many pipes and connections that need to be disconnected as what I thought. With the carbs out, I tried getting a grip on the screw with some vice grips and it came right out (I have now replaced all of the screws with allen heads, I have found they are easier to loosen on an angle and can usually unscrew them with my fingers.) While I was there, I added 2 washers under the needles and remove the snorkel, (I used 4mm washers) Put the carbs back in and everything back together, started up the bike, idle was fine, let it warm up a little and it wouldn't rev past 3000rpm and just died. With a little help from kkim, found out the 4mm washers were too bid for the spring to fully press on the needle and the needle was able to move up and down a fair distance.

I replaced the 4mm washers with 3mm ones (the size of the hole) which is 7mm in diameter (compared to the 9mm diameter of the 4mm washers) and all is fine, I have a better sounding bike which is nicer to ride :D

I am currently in the middle of ordering the AP Long CF full exhaust and Dyno jet 100 kit and will be installing these the weekend they arrive :D

Good job, David. I know for awhile you had your doubts before you found the washer problem. Glad everything worked out.

So, with the washer mod... would you say the bike is easier to ride now?

Good job, David. I know for awhile you had your doubts before you found the washer problem. Glad everything worked out.

So, with the washer mod... would you say the bike is easier to ride now? Thanks, yes I did. But all is good now.

Yes, It is nicer and easier to ride as the power is smoother down low than what it was.

Interesting discussion here. What would be the difference between shimming and this procedure below and how would it effect the bike in stop and go situations?

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_%2708_is_a_cold-blooded_ogre

Shimming will accomplish the same end result without having to pull the carbs.

It will make the bike a lot easier to ride away from a stop as the power will seem "fatter" at the lower revs.

have you read this thread?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9465&highlight=shimming

Right, an update :D

Yesterday the exhaust finally arrived, opened it up and was amazed and the look and quality of it!

Tor down the bike and added a needle to each washer (till I install the jet kit on th weekend) Installed the exhaust going by Kelly's DIY here: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10005

It was too late to test it, I didn't get much sleep, I am not sure if it is cause of the exhaust or something else... :gossip: but tested it this morning and DAMN!!! :D this thing is perfect!!!! :D

Next step is to install the jet kit this weekend.

I had better slow down, or I will run out of mods!! Ha ha ha :p

I had better slow down, or I will run out of mods!! Ha ha ha :p

Or, $$$$MONEY$$$$ :eek:

Yes, for price, quality, performance and service, it's hard to beat Area P. Kerry's got a great thing going for our bikes. :thumbup:

Once you put the jet kit in, you won't run out of mods... you'll be fiddling with it constantly to get it "just right", believe me. :D

Sam, that is very true! Ha ha ha

Kelly, he certainly does. I must say that any videos I have seen just do not do the exhaust justice!

True.

:worthlesswithoutpic

I hear ya Kim, I will get some soon. I was more interested in hearing and testing it to get pics :p

On a side note, I think I will have to pull the Kleen air system as it is making a few poping backfires :D

Right, so I will need to pull out the Kleen air system, that is fine, I should be able to do that today.

I have got 2 and a half days off this weekend (Friday public holiday and have to work half a day on Saturday :( ) but the week end is still packed, so I won't be able to install the jet kit :( and here I was thinking a girl friend would be good :p (In all seriousness, she is great :D ) Anyway! The bike is running weak in the low end up to about 8KRPM when the power surges on, I have got 3 washers under the needles and I am thinking that I may need to add another. What would you guys think?

And yes, I will try to get pics! (after washing her that is)

I think she'll survive w/ 3 washers until the jetting.... I'm talking about the bike, not your GF. :)

pulling the Kleen system will get rid of the popping. make sure you plug the holes at the cylinder head and the airbox.


And yes, I will try to get pics! (after washing her that is) this time I'm hoping you're talking about the GF! :D

OK then. I must say the AreaP makes a nice sound at about 5.5KRPM, I was riding through town and people were looking, it was great :D

Yep, I have read the DIY a few times over, so much that I don't need to look at it :p I just have to wait it the stores open to be able to get some plugs.

Ha ha ha, I will see :p But that is a yes to pics of my bike!

What I like most about the Area P is how the power is flattened/smoothed out throughout the entire rpm range with a nice top end addition as the icing on the cake. It makes the engine feel like there is power everywhere, except just a small portion of the rpm range like the stock exhaust.

Yes, it does make a nice addition to the powerband (it will be better once I install the jet kit)

I was just thinking, if I am going to pull out the Kleen air system, why not drop another washer onto the needles as I have direct access to the carbs... :confused:

Sorry about that... forgot you're gonna tear the bike apart... again. :D

yeah, drop another in, but I haven't heard of anyone using 4 before. Let me know the results. :)

Ha ha ha. Yeah, I am not sure if that is too many or what... I guess I could try removing one and see what happens?

Kelly, I think I might be turning into be the same as you :eek: it seems my bike is almost spending as much time with her clothes off than on recently!! :D

are you having any issues with it the way it is now w/ 3?

Not issues as such, just the weakness up to about 8KRPM

add one.

Well I added a washer and it is running great :D

I am just having trouble finding some bungs for the kleen air system (yes I know how you have used a hose with a screw, but I want mine to be as neat as possible :p )

just use the hose and bolt thingy for now until you can find a proper replacement. it will at least put a stop to the rumble and popping at low rpm.

You can't even see the plugs when the bike is back together and it's fully functional.

cool that the extra washer helped.

just use the hose and bolt thingy .

There you go with those Kawasaki technical terms again Kelly:D

Yeah, that is true. I will see what I have got at home to do it.