Recently, I finally took my bike for a ride at night and discovered a problem with the halogen headlights. Below is the low-beam problem.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=108
It doesn't get any better with the high-beam.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=109
After some research and PMs with kkim, I discovered the below solution.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=100
It is available here for $58.99 with express shipping included:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250336425186

EDIT: That link may have gone dead. Here's a new link (http://tinyurl.com/yzgs2tq) that may have what we need.

The kit consists of the following components:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=101

First step for this conversion is to take the fairings/cowlings off or as kkim says "Let's get nakid!" You can find kkim's DIY for this in one of the STICKIES at the top of this forum.

Now that the common fairings/cowlings are off, the OEM halogen bulbs need to be removed. In my past 40+ years of working on automobiles, I have an aversion to not working on anything in tight places, if I can avoid it. By removing less than a dozen screws/plastic retainers, the radiator cowling and the entire nose piece (contains the headlights) can be removed. The factory service manual paid for itself with this installation!!!

The following pictures detail the radiator cowling removal.

This is the left side radiator cowling detail. Identified by the blue arrow.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=92
This is the right side radiator cowling detail. Also shown via a blue arrow.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=90
The left and right sides actually make up a single piece. You must remove 1 screw on each side. The blue arrow points to the screw below.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=93
Also remove the plastic rivet (one per side) by pushing in the center with a small screw driver and then pulling the entire rivet out. These are the same type of rivets used in previous DIYs.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=91
From the front, remove the radiator cowling (blue arrow), like so:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=94
Next, remove the windshield (2 bolts x 2 on each side...blue arrows).
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=86
Now for the nose piece, remove the 3 bolts on each side. One of the bolts is directly beneath the instrument panel and one is below and opposite the mirror (actually connects to the mirror mount support). The blue arrows represent the general direction of the bolts.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=96

At this point, my camera's batteries were dying for the fourth time and I realized this was why my wife purchased a new canon camera last year! What I didn't realize was the next few pictures did not get saved. So, take my word for it, the nose piece came off!

The next picture shows the back of the nose piece, which details the headlight lamp housing, after the low beam (left side) bulb was replaced and the rubber housing was modified. The blue and yellow arrows detail the adjusting screws for the light beams.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=97

Next I detail how this kit made certain mods necessary. Remember this kit was designed for an automobile, so we have to improvise.

Remove the rubber housing by pulling the tabs on each side. It looks like this:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=107

Kawasaki installs a plastic spacer with connector prongs on the back of the H7. You can see the spacer (yellow arrow) in the below picture on the high beam (right) side. It is held down by a metal spring (blue arrow), just above the adjustment screw.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=99

The HID bulbs need a spacer on the back, in order to fit snug into the headlight housing. With my mod, this is what the bulb looks like:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=87

I went to Lowe's (one of many planning trips) and purchased 3 packages (4 per pkg) of nylon washers and stacked 5 washers per bulb. The blue arrows detail how the washers need to be cut, after the center hole is cut to a rectangle (to fit around the shrink wrap on the back of the bulb):
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=95

The next step is to fit the rubber insulator of HID wiring (yellow arrow) into the rubber housing (blue arrow).
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=105

Turn the rubber housing inside/out and remove about 1/2" of rubber (blue arrow) from the smaller end. Like so:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=106

Next pull the two wires (blue arrows) out of the HID rubber insulator.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=84

This is how the wires look, now:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=85

Fit the HID rubber insulator into the rubber housing, which was just cut and fit the resulting assembly into the respective low or high beam headlight housing. My left side is repeated below:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=97

Next mount the ballast on a frame support bracket, behind the nose piece. It is much easier to do with the nose piece removed. The yellow arrow shows the ballast mounted to the frame support bracket (blue arrows) on the right side with tie wraps. The ballast fits into a hinged bracket (supplied), which has the two tie wraps (Lowe's) passed thru the brackets and then around the frame. I then secured the wiring via more tie wraps and routed them to the front and center of the bike.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=88

Repeat for the left side (not in good focus):
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=98

Another right side shot...more detail of bike showing location.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=89

Install the nose piece, the radiator cowling, and the windshield.

Now connect the ballast wires. The Yellow/Black wire on the original headlight connector is the negative, so connect the black wire from the ballast to Yellow/Black wire on the respective side. The red ballast wire connects to the remaining headlight connector on each side.

Double check your connections. Start your bike and don't worry. The low beam comes on and goes right out!!!! It's OK. Just restart the bike and voila. The low beam is now on. Has something to do with a voltage drop at startup. It's documented in the FAQ for troubleshooting, included with the kit.
Turn on the high beam and let both bulbs burn in for a full 10 minutes without interruption.

Here's my low beam:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=117

and high beam:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=118

Install the rest of the cowlings and seat. Wait for it to get dark and adjust the bulbs per the factory service manual.

Any questions, please ask. Enjoy!:thumbup:

factory service manual sounds like the key. I could have never figured this out on my own. Thanks for taking the time to post all this.

Go here to get the manual slightly discounted:

http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/9/Kawasaki.aspx

under "Publications"...$48 + S&H...roughly $61

:clapping:

Not the 20-30 minute installation some people talk about, eh? Good work and very meticulous. Thanks for taking the time to do a DIY. PITA, isn't it? :D

Have you had a chance to ride it around at night yet? Make sure the lights are properly aimed when you pull behind someone at a stop. Your low light cutoff should not be above the top edge of their trunk.

Your impressions of the difference? :eek:

How long overall did this mod take you to do?

kkim..As we discussed..I can't get the bike on the stand and the cowlings off in 20-30 minutes. If the rubber seals were deeper (as the plastic ones on cars are), that modification wouldn't be necessary. If Kawasaki didn't put the extension on the bulb, that mod wouldn't be necessary. If I could win a multi-million dollar lottery, I wouldn't have to work.

I haven't had a chance to ride, period, since I started this mod. After I finished the needle mod/carb tuning, I rode it at night with the halogens and have been working on the HIDs since then, off and on.

GreezMunky...It would have been much quicker, if I didn't have to take pictures. Believe me, I almost said %$#&*@( the pictures a few times. If this and if that....probably 6 hours total. Just depends on how you handle the 2 mods that are needed with this kit. kkim's kit was different and his shim solution was different.

Looking back...I could have left off the rubber mod, since I'm not going to ride in the rain. If I get caught in the rain, I will be OK though.

It would have been much quicker, if I didn't have to take pictures. Believe me, I almost said %$#&*@( the pictures a few times.

lol, well first off, just wanted to say thank you! :thumbup: for taking the pictures. Seeing it all broken down in your DIY makes the idea of this being my next mod much more likely. 6 hours though (I'm gunna go with that because I tend take forever when modding anything), that means I'll have to set aside one of my Saturdays... Thanks for the your time.

Give yourself a Sat and Sun. You will want to take a few breaks!

You're welcome. To quote an "old" sage "Pay it forward.":D

Very nice DIY. I need to pull my apart and redo it :) I need to shim the bulb and cut the OEM boot to fit :)

THANKS!! This one is in my near future!

Wow, a lot more involved then I ever would have thought...looks like I have some work to do when it warms up. (dont have a garage.) Thanks for the writeup, helped a lot

Nice job Sam :thumbup:

My HIDs have just arrived this Monday afternoon, so I can't wait to install them, I will do this next week as I have a week off (my christmas :rolleyes: break) I must say, the differences between the HIDs you have, and mine are the box, instructions, label on the ballasts and the brackets on them, so they are very similar :D. I will photograph every step I take and note everything that I do and we will be able to make an in depth DIY for this including the missing pics due to your camera battery. :)

Nice 1 dude. Appreciate the effort :) This'll come in handy in the hopefully very near future

Good write up! :thumbup: What color temp are those, 4300K or 6000K?

I really enjoy the before and after shots of the high beam. It's just like the photo trickery used in commercials. :D

Nice install.My HID install also went smooth after replacing the light fuse to a bigger one.:thumbup:

good write up! :thumbup: What color temp are those, 4300k or 6000k?

I really enjoy the before and after shots of the high beam. It's just like the photo trickery used in commercials. :d

4300k

Nice install.My HID install also went smooth after replacing the light fuse to a bigger one.:thumbup:

You popped a fuse with your HIDs? I've installed many a kit and I have never upgraded the fuse or have had a problem.

Do tell... what happened?

kkim,

f-sane in their install recommend changing the fuse from 10 amp to 25 amp, because many people leave the high beam on. This is mentioned on the last page of the install link I showed you last week.

kkim,

f-sane in their install recommend changing the fuse from 10 amp to 25 amp, because many people leave the high beam on. This is mentioned on the last page of the install link I showed you last week.

Why would a bigger fuse be needed when the HIDs draw less current than the stock headlight bulbs? ... makes no sense.

You popped a fuse with your HIDs? I've installed many a kit and I have never upgraded the fuse or have had a problem.

Do tell... what happened?

Actually the HiDs did not fire up until I upgraded the fuse amp.No problems after that.
Posted via Mobile Device

They draw much less current once they reach steady state (after only a few seconds), but they draw much more current on startup. I imagine that's when the fuses could be at risk.

Actually the HiDs did not fire up until I upgraded the fuse amp.No problems after that.
Posted via Mobile Device

Some peeps where saying that u pop the fuse if you turn on the bike on high beam? Never had any problems no matter what bam I was one starting the bike.
Posted via Mobile Device

Actually the HiDs did not fire up until I upgraded the fuse amp.No problems after that.
Posted via Mobile Device

Sounds like a wiring/fuse problem. If it have been a true over current condition, you would have popped the original fuse.

They draw much less current once they reach steady state (after only a few seconds), but they draw much more current on startup. I imagine that's when the fuses could be at risk.

Yes, I understand the spike at start up, but like I said, I've never popped a fuse. I'm a bit leery of installing a larger fuse in a circuit designed to handle a certain sized fuse.... especially if I have no problems with the upgrade.

Agreed.

...that's not good when you and I agree on something! :eek:

Really cuts down on our post counts, I'll try not to make a habit of it! :D

As stated in the DIY, my low beam came on and went out. I let the bike idle for a minute or so and turned it off. Restarted it and the low beam was on. Yesterday, I just held the starter a little bit longer and the light stayed on at startup.

The troubleshooting guide (included with the kit) talks about this problem (I mentioned it in the DIY).

I've been meaning to ask about that... what's up with my post count?? :mad: You must have known that someday people were going to have more than 1000 posts, right?

Posts: A lot.

THREAD TANGENT:

It's not aimed at you, Kelly, don't worry! As soon as anyone else reaches a 4-digit post count you will see they will automatically join the same ranks. Post count isn't deleted, modified, or inaccessible to those who are interested, for example right here (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/misc.php?do=topposters) and in anyone's profile.

It comes from a personal feeling that while post count is important to some extent, (I'll certainly listen more carefully to someone with a couple hundred or a couple thousand posts compared to someone who joined 2 days back and has 3 posts), once people reach a certain threshold of posting the perceived difference between them and other people who have reached that same value can't be relied upon and is more a distraction than anything meaningful. More simply, someone with 5,000 posts doesn't necessarily have anything more useful to say than someone with 2,000 posts. They very well may, but not because of their post count differences. Both of those posters have reached a level that people can recognize as being significant.

So that's why it says that. If you don't like just that phrase ("A lot"), and instead have a better suggestion "> 1000", "zillions", "a whole buttload", let me know and if I agree I'll change it for everyone.

Anyone seen these new PIAA all-in-one HID lamps yet? Self-contained ballast & igniter inside the lamp module itself. Insanely expensive (~ $600 for two lamps), but awfully slick as well. I want to see the first ninjette with two of these hanging off the fairing! We should have just enough electrical output to run them both, as long as no other additional accessories are on at the time...

http://www.piaa.com/Powersports/lamps.html

I just feel the post count should reflect the actual number of posts... period. If people want to read into that, that's their problem, but I bet most don't even look at that stat in people's user info to begin with.

I didn't take it personally. :)

sorry for the OT. :o

Anyone seen these new PIAA all-in-one HID lamps yet? Self-contained ballast & igniter inside the lamp module itself. Insanely expensive (~ $600 for two lamps), but awfully slick as well. I want to see the first ninjette with two of these hanging off the fairing! We should have just enough electrical output to run them both, as long as no other additional accessories are on at the time...

http://www.piaa.com/Powersports/lamps.html

I'll get right on that......not!

Alex, you found them, you have to install them. Isn't that the rule? He who finds the deal, does the deed!

Can't wait to see your DIY:)

Can't wait to see your DIY:)

It would start with "remove credit card from wallet", and likely end with "pick bike up from shop". :)

Please make sure that you show BOTH SIDES of the Credit Card. Pretty please:thumbup: Maybe include phone number and other vital info!

I had a pair of these:

http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=PIA73141/353.0

http://www.shopatron.com/img/product_images/353/434534a6660f582e94e3a92ffdff9361.jpg

What a ripoff! I paid around $50 for them. Eventually tossed them in the trash.

What did you want them for? Fog lights are 95% there so others can see you in the fog, and maybe 5% to help you see a little better in fog at 5 mph or less. For that, I'm sure those worked fine. But I'd bet they'd be almost useless at illuminating much in front of you.

Those cross-country HID lamps are a whole different kettle of fish. Expensive fish, at that. :)

The lights were pre-motorcycle interest for my 4 wheel vehicle. I ended up with Hella's.

Makes sense. :thumbup:

Right, I have just about finished installing my HIDs (I just want to put a little silicon sealant round the rubber seals just to fully water proof them.) All went smoothly, except the testing part... I put the front back on, turned on the bike, WOW, what a difference!! :D then hmm, what is highbeam like? flick the switch, high beam comes on for a micro second and then both lights go out. checked the fuse box and I had blown the 10A fuse. :rolleyes: I am going to get some fuses that will allow me to start the bike under full beam and leave that fuse, that way I will not be going too high a fuse that it is not going to do what it is designed for, but a fuse that will allow me to use the lights how I want. :thumbup:

Excellent! Glad it worked out for you. The silicon sealant is a great idea. Since I'm not planning on riding in the rain, I won't do that right away. Maybe when I take the nose off to extend the mirrors some.

Did you burn the lights in for the required 10 minutes, once you fixed the fuse? I found out that by holding the starter button down a little bit longer, the low beam comes on and stays on. Once that surge is past, I can then turn the high beam on and off, as needed, no problems.

F-Sane (http://www.f-sane.com) recommends changing the fuse for the headlights from 10A to 25A. This will prevent the fuse from blowing in the future. Most people have both lights on at the same time and this will support the initial surge of power that the ballasts use to ignite. DISCLAIMER (On my part): The wiring may not be designed to carry this much current, so I can't recommend leaving high beams on for startup purposes!

Right, I have just about finished installing my HIDs (I just want to put a little silicon sealant round the rubber seals just to fully water proof them.) All went smoothly, except the testing part... I put the front back on, turned on the bike, WOW, what a difference!! :D then hmm, what is highbeam like? flick the switch, high beam comes on for a micro second and then both lights go out. checked the fuse box and I had blown the 10A fuse. :rolleyes: I am going to get some fuses that will allow me to start the bike under full beam and leave that fuse, that way I will not be going too high a fuse that it is not going to do what it is designed for, but a fuse that will allow me to use the lights how I want. :thumbup:

Yeah, I ride to work and it is ofter wet, so I figured why not water proof it completely :D

I have run the low beam in for about 15 mins, but the high beam no as it blew the fuse and I couldn't replace it with a larger one, I figured another 10A would just blow again, I will be getting that soon, just woken up down here :p

Yeah, I was thinking about the current while starting it up on high beam and it does sound like something to be avoided due to the wiring. Well that is easy, start on low beam, if need be switch to high beam :D though these are so much brighter that I may not even use high during the day.

Right, all finished. I replaced the 10A fuse with a 15A fuse and all is good :D

All nice and water tight as well :D

Congrats Viper-Byte. I know it was an experience. :thumbup:

Well, the lights showed up today, hopefully I get get them in over the weekend or something if i have time. I think I should probably go get a manual too, might be a smart idea, anyone know how much they are?

Well, the lights showed up today, hopefully I get get them in over the weekend or something if i have time. I think I should probably go get a manual too, might be a smart idea, anyone know how much they are?

Did you jump into the middle of this thread? :confused: I ask, because post #3 provides the info you seek!

My bad haha, I read it all about 3 weeks ago and never went back through all of it again. But i definatly will be when i do the install, btw thanks for the writeup.

Did you jump into the middle of this thread? :confused: I ask, because post #3 provides the info you seek!

hey, he's in college... you expect him to read, too??? :pound:

My bad haha, I read it all about 3 weeks ago and never went back through all of it again. But i definatly will be when i do the install, btw thanks for the writeup.

Good news for you. Hold off on the DIY. Viper-Byte has a great mod for it, assuming you received the same kit that he and I did! It should make it slightly less tedious.

hey, he's in college... you expect him to read, too??? :pound:

Yeah what he said ;)

Good news for you. Hold off on the DIY. Viper-Byte has a great mod for it, assuming you received the same kit that he and I did! It should make it slightly less tedious.

Oh really? I ordered it form the same place you did, and came in the same packaging and everything...so I would assume its the same. You know when its supposed to get posted up?

I will aim to have my write up on the install of mine tonight, in a few hours.

The only things I done differently was I used the extender things on the existing bulbs (they just pull off) and cut then down and took the inside out, works the same as the washers. I also put on some silicon sealant to full waterproof the bulbs.

Also, my fuse kept blowing at 10A, I installed a 15A fuse and it will stay on no matter if the bike is started on high, or low beam.

I will post the pics of my install tonight.

Sweet, sounds good, thanks.

Right, sorry about the delay, had to make an unscheduled trip to the Hospital. :(

I have uploaded the main pics I took for this in my photo album here: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/album.php?albumid=29

As I have said, I used the riser that the stock bulbs come with as seen here:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=190

I pulled it off the bulb, you will need to be careful as the metal lip on the bulb is sharp
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=191

The metal prongs just come out if met with a hammer :D
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=192

I had to use a file to cut the riser down as I didn't have anything better suited, this allows the part of the HID bulb that is heatshrunk to get through, the cut in the wall it to allow the wires to get through.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=194

This is what it looks like on the HID bulbs:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=196

Then just clamp it in using the spring as normal:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=197

I often ride in the rain, and thought with cutting the rubber seals to allow the rubber seals that came with the HIDs to fit in, this will possibly allow water in, so I got some silicon sealant, with the thoughts that it will bond the two rubbers together, provide a water tight seal and be easier than glue to come off if need be.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=205

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=204

It is as simple as that. :) (these are only the parts that I have done differently to Sam, otherwise I used his DIY to install them :thumbup: )

You guys have got to post your impressions of the lights when riding. It may be a PITA to install, but the difference in lighting over stock is night and day.

This mod is a must do if you ride a lot at night in areas with little or no street lights.

be sure to check your headlight aiming after you're done with the install.

I didn't find it too bad to install, I just took my time and all was fine.

The difference is really amazing, I have only taken it out for a test ride at night so far and the difference is AMAZING! Not only is there more light to see with, being the colour that it is (I got 8000k), it is clearer to see. I went for a ride yesterday and while it was cloudy, I could see the lights relecting back on the signs a little :eek:

I think the mod is a must do if you do any decent amount of riding at night, even during the day, they will allow the cagers to see you better than the stock lights (my impressions anyway)

Yep, I have checked my aim and adjusted it accordingly.

Viper-Byte...congrats on the mod. I hope the DIY helped you.

I went out Sunday afternoon while it was overcast. Twice people were thinking about pulling out from side streets and I just flashed the high beam. Both times they slammed on the brakes, so I know the lights "helped" them to see me.

I haven't had a chance to ride at night or adjust them. Probably won't get to do this in the next few days. Looks like a possibility of snow on Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday!!:(

Thanks for the remainder of your side of the writup. looks good.

David - do you have any more pics that show the temperature a little better? I think I'm leaning towards the 8000K for the tone, but I know that the 4300K is going to be a stronger intensity.... pics of the color would help me a little bit!

I guess I should have included a before and after shots in my post.

I have not really got too many after shots, but here are some, I have put all the ones so far in the album link above, I will get more tonight for you from riders perspective.

I actually think the 8000k is a very nice combination of light and colour, with the little night riding I have done so far.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=207

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=213

Daytime:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=215

David - do you have any more pics that show the temperature a little better? I think I'm leaning towards the 8000K for the tone, but I know that the 4300K is going to be a stronger intensity.... pics of the color would help me a little bit!

dunno... how much reason do you want to give the police a reason to pull you over for illegal headlights? the 8K color is noticeably blue and very easy to distinguish as an aftermarket kit.

The 4300K is the closest color temp as what manufactures who produce cars with HIDs use.

As promised, here are some better pics :), I feel that the 8000k is really blue while warming up, but after a few mins, IMO it is actually not all that blue.

Low beam stock:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=242

High beam stock:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=243

Low beam HIDs:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=237

High beam HIDs:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=238
(probably not the best example as I had only had the high beam on for 10 seconds before the pic, which is why it is so blue.

Low beam HIDs:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=241

High beam HIDs (fully warmed up):
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=29&pictureid=240

Where is the bike in the last two pictures? Are you next to it or standing over it? Kind of a dumb question but just curious as to where the pattern is on the ground in relation to where you stand.

the light pattern will be where ever you aim the headlight once you adjust them. :)

Where is the bike in the last two pictures? Are you next to it or standing over it? Kind of a dumb question but just curious as to where the pattern is on the ground in relation to where you stand. That is me sitting on the bike as the rider would see the lights, note: my drive way goes up hill.

^^Thats what I was asking, thanks. Looks good.

^^Thats what I was asking, thanks. Looks good. Yeah, I guess I should have stated that :) all of the pics
in my post above are from the seat.

Thanks for the walk-throughs gentlemen. It's pretty cool when people take the time to document every step of the way for those (like me) who're getting started. Hopefully within the next couple of months I'll be able to actually put these threads into action! :)

Tony,

check out this thread if you need projects to keep you busy in the future. ;)

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5586

Hey, just curious as to where the fuse is for the lights...just in case I end up blowing one I can actually find it.

Hey, just curious as to where the fuse is for the lights...just in case I end up blowing one I can actually find it. It is just under the seat behind the battery in little box, which has the fuse ratings on it.

Sweet, thank you!

HIDs are awesome. I wholly intend on getting some once I get some cash and take the Bike to my parents house (since I don't have any tools).

Would you recommend a service manual purchase to help with the install?

Yes, they are awesome, IMO they are worlds over the stock lights.

It is not all that hard to install them, I do not have a manual, though I have just ordered one. The only part I was not sure about was the wiring (there are only 2 connections for each light to be made and they only plug into the existing light sockets. So it is not a lot of wiring), Sam has since edited the DIY to include this, so it is fine now.

I can see that you are looking at doing a few mods, if that is the case, I would suggest getting a service manual, post #3 has a link to a cheap place.

I can see that you are looking at doing a few mods, if that is the case, I would suggest getting a service manual, post #3 has a link to a cheap place.

Cheap, unless you live in New Zealand!!! Right Viper? :D

Cheap, unless you live in New Zealand!!! Right Viper? :D Yeah, the shipping is double what the manual is :eek: But I have ordered a few things and the shipping has stayed the same, so...

Going to get started on my HID's right now!

Kelly, Could you post a pic of your bike with the 4300s? Is there any blueish tint?

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SOQvZDs5TQI/AAAAAAAABDw/0IVhf85Pilo/s640/bike%20034.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SOQvbxfKsrI/AAAAAAAABD4/YYxpfPG85iY/s640/bike%20035.jpg

Sorry, no night time pics, but the lights do have a bluish tint when compared to the stock halogen lighting. It is much like the HID headlight color on factory automotive headlights, which are 4300K.

Thank you. I wish I could rep you. I am sold on the 4300s. But I am going to wait until it is closer to riding seaon to install them:mad: I allmost want to move somewhere warm. But I would miss snowmobiling and snowboard too much.

Here is a pic of my HID install with 6000k bulb.
Sorry got no install pics, but I do have a pic of the bulb and the spacers I used.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd167/shporsche/HIDGLOBE.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd167/shporsche/DSC00215.jpg

Did mine last night, took me about 2 hours total to tear the whole thing down, install, then put it back together. Road home from my buddies house (where i worked on the bike) last night about 11 (in the rain). WOW is all i have to say, huge difference, would recommend them to anyone!

and exactly how long would it have taken you without this thread? :p

Good to hear you like them :thumbup:

IMO It is really hard to realise just how poor the stock lights are till you install something like these, then you can actually see where you are going :eek: :D

and exactly how long would it have taken you without this thread? :p

Ha ha yeah I should have mentioned that (thought i did) Thanks a lot for the write up, helped out quite a bit. Without it i would have been looking at about 2 hours and 10 min ;) haha jokes... it would have taken me a bit longer (its the fairing removal that was the hardest part IMO) but it all went smoothly until I started putting it back together. The stupid little rubber gromets inside the fairings are all torn and are coming off so I had to hold them to get them back on, and its pretty hard to squeeze your hand down in the fairing. Thanks again kelly I appreciate the write up

Levi,

You're welcome, but I wasn't referring to my DIYs... I was referring to this DIY on doing the HIDs. To my knowledge, this is the first I've seen on this topic and also, it was done to a degree of detail that left little to the imagination.

How soon they forget you, if you don't have a green bike! :confused:

My bad, thank you Sam for the write-up, was very helpful and did leave little guess work. Helped out tons, I just took a good look over it a few days before and I was on my way, went really smooth. I am not bias against the black bike like kelly is though ;)

I saw an opportunity for a little hilarity and took it. It really didn't bother me....too much.. ha ha :)

We all know BLACK bikes are faster than green. BLACK is so fast that you normally don't see them like the green ones.

Let the whining begin!:devil:

Let the whining begin!:devil:
looks like it's already happened. :p

We all know BLACK bikes are faster than green. BLACK is so fast that you normally don't see them like the green ones.

Let the whining begin!:devil:

couldnt agree with you more. :D finally someone who got it right.
also this HID conversion is most important on the black bikes, as we move sooo much faster

Well....low beam isn't working now but high beam still does (only the one light) Is this a fuse or do I have a bigger problem?

The headlights are covered by a single fuse, so it is unlikely a fuse issue.

Have you taken the fairings off to check the connections? It is possible that something has fallen out.

Failing that, swap the high and low power connections where the ballasts connect to the bike and see which light goes, if the high beam only, there is something wrong with the ballast/bulb on the low beam.

I would say start there.

Its getting a bit dark here right now and I have some other stuff to do so I will probably just check tomorrow and ride with the high beam on tonight. I don't want to take the fairings off if I don't have to, but I will do what you said and see what I come up with.

Well, i just went out and jiggled some of the wires and its good! everything was plugged in good, just had a short in one of the wires coming from the bike. I took it over to a friends how where there was actually light and pulled the wire and replaced it. Thanks!

Cool, good to hear you got it sorted and it was nothing big :D

Thanks Sam. the DIY was a big help when I installed mine and thanks to kkim for the fairing removal DIY:thumbup:

I have mine half-done and will have time next weekend to finish it off. so have all of you had to replace the fuse or has the 10A fuse been sufficient?

Still using original 10 amp fuse!

Is there anyway to do this without removing the fairings. If i just remove the radiator shroud it looks like the piece that goes under the headlights will I be able to do it from there. I have done hid conversions on many cars. My car is also h7 and it needed adapters too. So I know what I'm doing with the lights just really afraid of taking the fairings all apart. I was hoping I could do this with just removing the plastic shroud below the lights.

have you seen the DIY on how to remove the fairings? It's not hard at all.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9933

welcome to the forum. :)

Todd, as kkim said, removing the fairings is not hard at all. If you are contemplating installing HIDs, then you should not even be thinking about taking the fairings off, it is that easy IMO.

I plan to do the HID conversion even though it is illegal in Maine. The law says that you are not allowed to modify your existing headlights. You are, however allowed to add lights which then can only function at low beam (like fog lights) I could legally put two PIAA HID lights on my bike in addition to my stock lights and be legal. They would be classified as fog lights. There is no way that I will be spening $600.00 on a set of fog lights. If I get stopped, I`ll just play stupid---gee the bike came that way.

Yeah I wouldn't worry to much about it. In a ton of states modifying exhaust on both bikes and cars is illegal and look how many of us are rolling around with that.

maybe a stupid question but, why is there any modifying required on this? :confused: As long as you replace with H7 xenon-bulbs? Is it like this on cars with H7 aswell?

edit: read that is was a car-h7-set, and therefore needed some mods. Have all of you used this? Ive found this: "H7 MC Xenon HID Conversion KIT 4300k 35w 12v". its $90 a piece though, and only 1 bulb per set, but would that work without mods? :confused:

Simen, to go to the true Xenon bulbs, you must use a ballast, that is what the boxes that we have mounted under the fairings are. the bulbs that we have used, come with a rubber surrounding on the bulbs which required the rubber housing in the stock bulbs to be cut a little to allow them to fit.

I believe the difference between a car and MC kit is the size of the ballasts, a MC kit is smaller and due to this is more expensive. But there is pleanty of room to mount car ballasts on our Ninjettes.

From what I can see, the only diff between a car kit and a MC kit is that in the MC kit, they give you only one set instead of 2 and charge you more than 1/2 the cost of a car kit. :rolleyes:

David, its the same ballast as far as i understand. same Watt and K also. I just wondered if its different fittings.

Kelly, have checked alot of sites now, and its much more for the MC kits, and yes its only 1 bulb. :( looks like theyre trying to earn some easy extra cash off bikers.

I like the color on the 8000K, it looks great. but dont you loose the ability to flicker the high-beam to get cager's attention? I may change the low-beam only, but then again it will look a little weird with different bulbs/colors.

I flick the hi beam and though it is not up to temp when you flick it, it still will flash enough to alert the oncoming driver.

Just buy a car kit for the same price as a MC kit and install both hi and low lights. If you don't like how the hi light acts when you flick it, remove the hi light side and put the regular hi bulb back in. You'll then have a complete set of spares for the low light at no additional cost over initially buying a single bulb MC kit. :D

When I was looking for my kit, I found that the MC kits had smaller ballasts, only one set as Kelly said and was more expensive, care to put a link to the kit you found?

When I was looking for my kit, I found that the MC kits had smaller ballasts, only one set as Kelly said and was more expensive, care to put a link to the kit you found?

Ok :) Im wrong then, when i look at the kit again it actually says "slim-ballast" :lol: Sorry
As you said, its no points bying the mc-kit then :) because its room for "car-ballast".

Link:
http://www.mamut.net/controls/shop/shops/12/8/default.asp?wwwalias=htrade&gid=80 (The ones i was looking at, is almost at the bottom of the site)

Is this plug'n'play?
http://www.biltema.no/products/product.asp?iSecId=1211&iItemId=77487
Its not HID's, but they are lookalikes, and only $18 for two bulbs. :) Im actually more interested in the xenon-look, than the actual lighting improvements. It says H7, so is this just a simple bulb-change?

Im sorry if im messing up this great DIY. Creds for the effort to take all the pictures. :thumbup:

kkim: yes i will do that. ;-) car-kits is cheaper by far.

Ha ha ha, it is all good :thumbup: it seems that the 35W are slim ballasts and 50w are normal sized.

I would THINK that as long as the are H7 style and are the correct wattage, they will be fine, just a simple bulb swap. The pic doesn't show the pins to connect the light socket to very well.

It is up to you if you get the look alikes, but TBH, for the effort involved to install the HIDs (and the extra cost of course!), the rewards are so much better. :2cents:

well observed (only the 35W says 'slim-ballast')
no point buying those then. the kit on ebay looks good :) will probably go for that when i got the time and money. ;)

Guinss, You should just buy the kit with the 4300K bulbs. They are white like the originals, just a LOT BRIGHTER.

Alex A, The headlight Lens has the "Motorcycle DOT" raised letters in the upper left corner, as you face the front of the bike. There aren't any DOT markings on either the halogen or HID bulb. I bet you would be OK doing the HID conversion. Worse case, the civil fine would be a lot less than $600 fog lights!

slim ballasts come in different wattages. I have a 35W slim ballast kit in my bike. Any ballast type will fit our bikes... there is a ton of room for them.

The kit mentioned for $60 is a steal. :D

Alex A.- stock HIDs for manufactures are 4300K. If you change to that color temp, it will take a cop with a lot of knowledge of our bikes to know they didn't come from the manufacturer that way. The Higher temps are a dead give away that it's an aftermarket kit installed, which is one of the reasons I went with a 4300K kit. :)

The higher temps are just for looks and actually give out less light.

Kelly, Thanks for the Heads Up. I am going for the HID. We have so few police officers in Maine that the chances of being challenged are slim to none. Besides I was a Deputy Sheriff for 11 years in another state and still have my ID. We are not talking about a big crime here. My philosophy still applies--"Better to be tried by 12 than be carried by 6"

:clap2:

ddmtuning.com has the HID kits for really cheap with a lifetime warranty, ebay doesnt have that does it? :D

how cheap is cheap and is it the lifetime of the HIDs or the lifetime that ddmtuning stays in business? :p

well they are about the same as the ebay ones price wise but they come with a lifetime warranty (not sure if its the life of the business or the HIDS lol) and i have the same set on my car, cept i paid 120 for the same exact kit :(
the good brand with the warranty is the Apexcone/DDM brand and they sell a shittier but still good kit (if that makes sense) for 39.95 with no warranty

so i'd say thats pretty cheap :)

oh and if u go to the site, dont go to motorcycle HID's cuz thats a rip off...you get one bulb and ballast for like 80 bucks when u can get 2 for like 40 for a car and they plug right in

Well I just impulsively ordered the HID kit (Dang you guys :))

I was thinking of installing fog/driving lights, but I'm not sure if I want to add stuff to the bike. I do probably half of my riding at night and a lot of it on back roads so these will be very useful.

I got the 4300K, in case anyone is wondering. Hope to get them installed next weekend, but not counting on it. I have a lot of projects (too many?) going on right now.

Ryan,

You can thank us later. :lol:

I'm sure I will after, but I'll curse you first :D

Well I just impulsively ordered the HID kit (Dang you guys :))


:allhail:

Got mine in yesterday. It took about 2 hours, and that was the first I ever had the fairings off so that should give you guys some kind of worst case time frame (I also had to remount the left ballast twice to get it out of the way of the fairing.

The difference is amazing, at least in the garage, I haven't ridden yet. I also did the dumb thing of letting them burn in while I reassembled. That drained the battery and the high beam started flickering :doh:

Charged it up and started fine today.

You were right Kelly, I am thanking you for talking me into it now :D

Ryan,

Glad you like them. :)

Be sure to check your headlight aiming after you get on the road. Nothing irritates other drivers more than having HIDs blasting them in the face while traveling in the opposite direction. I've found, properly aimed, the light pattern is quite contained.

:thumbup:

Will do thanks Kelly, but it just snowed about 4 inches today (I know you don't know what that is you don't have to rub it in :)) so I will have to wait a little bit.

I installed a set today right before I have to goto work. Just one quick question ..... After everything is put back together .... minus a screw or two. :eek: What are the Factory specs for adjusting the headlights?

I installed a set today right before I have to goto work. Just one quick question ..... After everything is put back together .... minus a screw or two. :eek: What are the Factory specs for adjusting the headlights?

I just adjusted mine by eye and used common sense, which is why taking it out on the road after your done with the installation to see what you need to adjust was my recommendation.

I also set up a mark on my garage floor and the wall in front of it to make relative corrections once I knew where I wanted the beam to go.

These maybe catching on! :p

Its definitely a smart mod for anyone who rides a lot at night.

You copy my windshield, I'll copy your lights :D

The windshield arrives Friday. I will see if I can beat your install time! :eek:

WoW ...... lastnight when i got out of work i took the Ninja for a quick ride ...... and I was like :confused40: :faint: . I could not believe these lights. I'd recommend ANYONE who has a motorcycle to get a set of HID lights. By the way .... I purchased a set of 6000K.

What are the Factory specs for adjusting the headlights?

high beam
ON high beam, the brightest points should be slightly below horizintal with the motorcycle on its wheels and the rider seated. Adjust the healight to the proper angle according to local regulations (they don't say exactly what angle for the high beam)

low beam
For US model, the proper angle is 0.4 degrees below horizontal. This is 50 mm (2 in.) drop at 7.6 m (25 ft) measured from the center of the headlight with the motorcycle on its wheels and the rider seated.

converts, I tell ya... converts!! :D

So, LD, can you imagine just a bulb change bringing such a dramatic increase in lighting output? I keep telling those looking at just a bulb swap to pay a few dollars more and get some real light output difference for their money by using a HID kit. Glad you like the results.

are there any kits that don't require ANY cutting of the rubber boot thingy or adding extra shims?

basically a plug and play kit? i want to be able to switch back to stock easily if needed.

does anyone know if this company is any good?
http://www.xenonexpert.com/xtreme_moto_hid.html

they also have a cheaper kit
http://www.xenonexpert.com/ddm_moto_kit.html

Gary, the swap really is super easy!! And it basically is plug and play, no wires to splice into or such.... The extra shims aren't needed, just cut the plastic piece with a hack saw or dremal tool. In the end if you HAVE to go back then you can get all the parts from the dealer, but i don't see why you would need to do that.

are there any kits that don't require ANY cutting of the rubber boot thingy or adding extra shims?

basically a plug and play kit? i want to be able to switch back to stock easily if needed.

does anyone know if this company is any good?
http://www.xenonexpert.com/xtreme_moto_hid.html

they also have a cheaper kit
http://www.xenonexpert.com/ddm_moto_kit.html

I don't know if there are any kits that don't require you to do something, i.e., cut a piece of rubber (me), or hit a Kawasaki bulb adapter with a hammer (ViperByte).

So, contact them and ask for a copy of the installation instructions for the Kawasaki Ninja 250 2008+ and see how "Plug and Play" it is. They talk about a smaller ballast. OK, well you can't see the ballast once the skins are back on. If you're pressed for space or you don't want to cut a $2 piece of rubber, just do like some others have done and don't cut the rubber. Don't put it back on!

If you're trying to save money, that's a good thing. That's how I found the kit that this DIY is built on. I didn't want to pay $130 or $199 or pick another price over $70.

If mine only lasts 1 year, then I will just buy another. Let's see 2x70=$140.

Good luck on your quest for a "Plug and Play" HID. I'm sure your install will be quicker than GrandMaster's.

Come on in, the water's fine!

The windshield arrives Friday. I will see if I can beat your install time! :eek:

I'm sure you can. Mine took over a week because I had to order a box of well nuts.

I'm sure you can. Mine took over a week because I had to order a box of well nuts.

For future reference, Lowes has well nuts in stock! Cheap too. :)

Yeah I went and got one there, but they only had the 10-24, not 10-32 and I was going away for the holidays so I just ordered them.

Finally got to ride at night, and all I can say is Wow...again. The pattern is good, and they seem to be properly aimed. Maybe its just the psychological aspect of spending money, but the light seems like its not only brighter, but the difference in color seems to help you notice things more as well.

On question does the time for the bulbs to warmup decrease as they are used? Will say a month from now the time be decreased or will it always take a while to heatup and change from blue to white? I noticed that the high beam seems to take forever to get up to full brightness.

the time to come to full brightness will stay the same. It's just a characteristic of HIDs.

That stinks. I was hoping it was like the energy efficient lights I have in my house. When I first got them they took a long time, now they are almost fully bright when I turn them on.

I'm road testing these right now. I keep wanting to adjust them though, so I right now the ninja's half nekKid hehe. Just as a confirmation, do any of you know or remember if tightening the vertical knob results in raising the light or lowering it? I know I should be able to tell right now since I'm testing but think I'm just retarted.. AND I only need to make small adjustments at this point since I'm almost within spec of what's comfortable for me; I want to get it just perfect without having to turn the knob so much just to tell which ways is up and which is down.

I've had my HID kit for like 6 months now. It's looking really pretty in the box. I should really install them :o

yes, I agree... they work a lot better when installed. :D

Not sure I saw this somewhere so could someone confirm with me that the H7 bulb is for both the high and low beam? I want to make sure I order the right thing.

And those HIDs are hotness on that blue bike.

Yes, both high and low beams take the same H7 bulbs.

4300k on a green bike. :D

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SOQvbxfKsrI/AAAAAAAABD4/YYxpfPG85iY/s640/bike%20035.jpg

I test fitted mines..and they would flicker as the RPM goes higher... they work fine from a battery? argh !

Not sure I saw this somewhere so could someone confirm with me that the H7 bulb is for both the high and low beam? I want to make sure I order the right thing.

And those HIDs are hotness on that blue bike.

You can't go wrong with these! :thumbup:

I just installed mine and i did indeed have to upgrade to a 15a fuse. I don't know if thats normal. Anyhow, I LOVE it.. think its probably my favorite upgrade so far. :p

I just installed mine and i did indeed have to upgrade to a 15a fuse. I don't know if thats normal. Anyhow, I LOVE it.. think its probably my favorite upgrade so far. :p

Do you startup with both lights on?

Ryan,

You can thank us later. :lol:

I'm thanking you again now. Last night I rode 225 miles of back roads at night (Not a smart idea I know especially because they were unknown to me. Just couldn't bring myself to do 3.5 hours on the PA turnpike, boring.) My ride was very exciting, but thanks to these lights I was able to see all the animals that wanted to end their lives (deer, rabbits, cats, raccoons, etc.)

Thanks again guys!!!


Oh and I didn't have to upgrade the fuse on mine. Works perfectly with the original 10A.

I had to up my fuse. I started my bike with both lights on and then the lights just blew out. Realized it truly was the fuse and replaced it to a higher one. It's A-ok now though with the exception that my high beam will flicker during idle at first if the bike isn't warm enough yet. However when I actually gas the bike, the flickering stops

If you start it with only the low beam on you don't have any issues at all.

yeah i figured that, but still a bit of annoyance, especially if you're used to having the high beam always on for safety during daytime riding

then turn the high beam on after the bike is started. really, from an electrical standpoint, replacing a fuse with a higher rated one without knowing the rest of the circuit's capability (in this case wiring) is not a sound electrical practice.

that's what I've been doing now, but thanks

My stock 10A fuse would blow when ever I switched to high beam regardless of how long the bike had been running on low beam only... 15A fixed that.

My stock 10A fuse would blow when ever I switched to high beam regardless of how long the bike had been running on low beam only... 15A fixed that.

is yours a 35 or 55W HID kit?

is yours a 35 or 55W HID kit? Mine is a 55w kit.

that could be the reason there. most kits are 35W.

Ah, I got the 55w kit cause that is what the stock bulbs were. I assume you got the 35w kit?

yes. most HID kits are 35W. it's not been till recently/later that they have offered the 55W kits.

Ah, I got the 55w kit cause that is what the stock bulbs were. I assume you got the 35w kit?

David, I never realized you received a 55w kit. In fact, I didn't know it was available. That explains a lot!

Yeah, I saw that there were 35w and 55w kits available, I thought I would get the 55w as I guess it would be brighter?

i actually have a 35w kit and i still had to upgrade to a 15a fuse. i turned on the high beams before the low beam was finished warming up and the fuse popped, i just got a 15a and it works fine.

Going on this week!

thanks for this DIY. i got my HIDs hooked up. found two broken fairing rubber nut thingys. those things are junk. still running the stock fuse and it seems to be ok. gotta remember to go and get another spare fuse. wouldn't want to blow the fuse at night.

QUESTION:

so i marked on the wall the height at which my stock light was... both for low and high beam. after my install, i checked the level again. i can't get both to be in their original levels at the same time. for now, i got the low beams set correctly. the high beam is higher than before. i figure that i won't be riding with the high beams on if there is oncoming traffic or someone ahead of me anyways.

so my question is, is there a way to adjust the level so that both are correct? from what i can tell, there is only one vertical knob that adjusts both of the beams. thanks in advance.

there is no way to independently adjust the low and high beams. adjust the low beam for proper height and you're done. The high beam height really doesn't matter as you said, you won't be using them during oncoming traffic anyway.

You might want to check if the bulbs are seated firmly/squarely in the socket. Just being skewed off a little can affect the pointing direction of the reflector and ultimately the beam.

thanks for the quick reply. yeah, i guess i can try wiggling the high beam side a bit. i did check it when i initially put it in and it seemed really snug. won't hurt to look again.


side note: for those planning on doing this, i am not sure if it is already mentioned, but i would say not to take off both retaining clips for the bulbs at the same time. do one side first, finish it, then go to the other. that way, you can use the other side as a reference as to how to put the clip back on.

yeah, i guess i can try wiggling the high beam side a bit. i did check it when i initially put it in and it seemed really snug. won't hurt to look again.


check both bulbs. it could be the low beam bulb not being seated properly that is throwing off the difference in the light pattern on the wall.

like I said, though. it really doesn't matter as long as you can adjust the low beam to the proper height.

check both bulbs. it could be the low beam bulb not being seated properly that is throwing off the difference in the light pattern on the wall.



yeah, thanks. i was just thinking about that after i sent the message.

if the weather holds up, gonna try them out tonight. :)

gotta remember to go and get another spare fuse. wouldn't want to blow the fuse at night.

FIY, there are actually 2 spare fuses already in the fuse box.. noticed this AFTER I went out and bought spares :cool:

oh cool! thanks. you saved me a trip. i guess it would help if i actually popped that fuse box cover open, huh?

haha no worries Gary. time for some ninja night riding tho yeah?

question: i have my headlights aimed at the same level that they were before. (i had the bike approximately 25 feet away from the wall and put a piece of tape at the top of the light pattern to use as a guide) however, when i took it for a test ride, it seems like the pattern is actually higher than previously.

is it just that the light is stronger, so it seems to project farther? or should i point it down lower even if it is aimed at the same level as stock? thanks.

for me the real test is when you pull up behind a normal sized, non lowered sedan at a stop light. Your low light beam cutoff line should be just below the trunk line so your headlight does not shine into the interior of the car.

if you cannot see your cutoff line below their trunk line, lower it until you can. it may take a few times to get it right.

that is the way my beam is. it doesn't go into the car. i can see the cut-off line a few inches below the top of the trunk. ok, i guess i am alright then. thanks!

that's how I've fine tuned mine and have had no problems with people flashing me at night. However, if you should make any changes to your suspension in the future, front and/or rear, remember to recheck your headlight aiming.

how's the HIDs? :D

well, apart from me being afraid that a cop might pull me over, the other fear is that i am just waiting for my stock fuse to blow every time i turn my high beam on.

i guess it just takes some getting used to. but other than, i love them.

took some pics for a forum member who wanted daylight pics, so i figure i would also post up two of them here. 6000k:

so my question is, is there a way to adjust the level so that both are correct? from what i can tell, there is only one vertical knob that adjusts both of the beams. thanks in advance.

Glad you got the HID kit to work :thumbup:

any tips on turning the vertical adjustment knob without taking the fairings off? it's awkward to reach and for some reason, does NOT want to turn.. my beams are aimed way too high

I can reach mine just fine by reaching up from underneath the front left side of the fairing. have you tried turning it both ways to see if you have affect on the beam pattern? if not, you may be turning the wrong thing. :p

if you can't turn it at all, maybe you are turning the wrong thing. :D

can you move the horizontal adjuster on the other side of the headlight assembly?

I can reach mine just fine by reaching up from underneath the front left side of the fairing. have you tried turning it both ways to see if you have affect on the beam pattern? if not, you may be turning the wrong thing. :p

if you can't turn it at all, maybe you are turning the wrong thing. :D

can you move the horizontal adjuster on the other side of the headlight assembly?

Haha, haven't tried the horizontal adjuster yet.. but I looked in the manual and I'm pretty sure I'm trying to twist the correct knob... it's the one that has ridges and looks "gear-like", right?

Thanks

Haha, haven't tried the horizontal adjuster yet.. but I looked in the manual and I'm pretty sure I'm trying to twist the correct knob... it's the one that has ridges and looks "gear-like", right?

Thanks

Oh and u just twist with your hands correct? There's no screw in the middle?
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See attached

from this thread. :rolleyes:



The next picture shows the back of the nose piece, which details the headlight lamp housing, after the low beam (left side) bulb was replaced and the rubber housing was modified. The blue and yellow arrows detail the adjusting screws for the light beams.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=97

thanks arthur. yeah you can reach it if you stick your hand up. if you look up from under the front tire you can see the headlight assembly. and yeah, you just twist it with your hand. if it doesn't turn, maybe try turning it the other way? i think it was left to lower although i don't know for sure.

Wow, that's a nice picture. Wish I would have thought of it! :cool:


from this thread. :rolleyes:



The next picture shows the back of the nose piece, which details the headlight lamp housing, after the low beam (left side) bulb was replaced and the rubber housing was modified. The blue and yellow arrows detail the adjusting screws for the light beams.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=97

Yup! That's the one.. I'm able to reach it and I've been trying to twist that sucker both ways all day.. my wrists have red marks all over them and my fingers are blistered.. no luck moving it though

Yup! That's the one.. I'm able to reach it and I've been trying to twist that sucker both ways all day.. my wrists have red marks all over them and my fingers are blistered.. no luck moving it though

I know what you mean. If it's that tight, then you may need to remove the side fairings at the least to give you a better angle on twisting these suckers. I just took my front fairing all the way off and use a screw driver to adjust it since I was already working on the bike

just wondering
are the stock halogen bulbs both H7 ?

Yeap

are any of you having flickering issues? I find when the bike is being accelerated or decelerated, the lights will start to flicker and when I brake, the flickering get even worse as if I'm flashing my lights at people.

Anybody get this too?

i wonder if your wiring is loose somewhere?

are any of you having flickering issues? I find when the bike is being accelerated or decelerated, the lights will start to flicker and when I brake, the flickering get even worse as if I'm flashing my lights at people.

Anybody get this too?


I get this at idle on my high beams only when I turn it on my bike after letting the low beam warm up.. just before I leave my house. I now turn on high beam during acceleration, this stops the flickers from happening for the rest of my ride.

I know it's been talked about as bad, but I also changed to a 15 fuse as originally my 10 was blown from the HIDs at start up after installation

I get this on both Hi and Low beams, it usually occurs when I am acellerating or decelerating. I suspect that it could be due to the quality of the bulbs. I know that mine are not of the best quality and I am trying to source a Hella HID Bulb and see what the difference is.

no flickering here.

I can't tell for sure, has anyone used the kit from DDM Tuning?

They have two models, both the same price.

One is for "motorcycles (http://www.ddmtuning.com/products/DDM_35W_55W_Dual_Motorcycle_HID_System-107-61.html)"

The other is an automotive (http://www.ddmtuning.com/products/DDM_35W_55W_Slim_Ballast_HID_Kit-101-85.html) but for H7's

Thanks in advance.

Which kit seems to be the best guys? I can't find the one from ebay, the link does not work anymore. Some seem to have quality issues, so I'm looking for a quality one. Please post up where I can purchase a setup.

Thanks,

Chad

im using one of these

xenon kit (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260381386796&viewitem=)

just make sure you get the H7 kit (thats the bulb size for our motorcycle)

I'm using one from a brand called Xentec, with standard size ballasts. Got them on ebay. but you have to add washers to the bulb housing or whatever you call it (just like in the DIY instructions) and what not for a tight and perfect fit.

regular ballasts fit just fine

Here's some pictures of my work:

Regular ballasts and where I mounted
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/slmboypnoy/250R/CIMG1294.jpg

Ghetto style washers and tube for fit.. all rubber
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/slmboypnoy/250R/CIMG1286.jpg

After inserting back into headlight mount
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/slmboypnoy/250R/CIMG1293.jpg

Crappy picture after finished
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/slmboypnoy/250R/CIMG1298.jpg

i just did this mod and THEN i found a diy thread but i got slim ballasts and i ended mounting them in about the same places but i used some cloth as a spacer inbetween the light bulb and the metal bracket thing to hold them in place but i got 8000k and it is the brightest thing on the road took me about an hr to install b/c i already had the bike fully naked

HID's are installed flawlessly however I have a slight problem. When starting, the low beam flickers and will not start. I shut off and start again but this time holding the starter for a few seconds. When i apply this method, the light usually flickers then stays on.

Today, i no matter how long i held the starter down, the light would not stay on. So i rode around with the highbeam on instead. After riding for a 20min, i restarted the bike using the same procedures, and it worked.

Do you think upgrading to 15a fuse will alleviate the startup issue?

no. try swapping ballasts between the hi and low.... or even just swapping the bulbs.

I have the same problem on occasion of it not starting with the bike, but a restart always makes the light come on for me.

you might have a loose connection in your low light setup, perhaps?

i doubt going to a higher fuse will be of any help.

the only thing i can think of is that your wiring may be loose, or your ballast is bad? i suppose you could try checking the connections or flip flopping the ballasts to see if the lows work and if your high beams have a problem after that. just a thought.

lol. we pretty much said the same thing at almost exactly the same time.

I was just a bit quicker cause my bike is green. :D

Checked all connections, even swapped ballasts. It still has the occasional issue of flickering and not turning on at all. Is there anything else to consider?

did you try swapping bulbs like kkim suggested?

when you swapped ballasts, the problem did not follow the ballast? that is, the problem remained on the low light side... is that correct?

if the problem did not follow the ballast switch, swap the bulbs between the high and low lights while leaving everything else the same.

process of elimination. :)

like paterick, i also got xentec off ebay ($50).... it was for use with motorcycles or autos..... came with a little adapter so that washers were not needed for installs on a motorcycle(had to dremel it a bit to fit)...... the adapter also made it so the factory rubber housing would fit snug around it, so no rubber housing mods were needed.....

huge difference, they sure are superbright....

over all a pretty easy install took me about an hr (minus bodywork disassembled).... was taking my time with the wiring (pretty lengthy wiring i must say).... recommended to everyone! for $50 you cant go wrong.

When i installed the HID's, i just did the low beam. Haven't had a chance to test another bulb.

I was wondering if you could tell me what to type in exactly on ebay so I get the right part. For one, I don't know what bulb type as I am picking up my 03 pre gen in less than 2 weeks and The ebay link is no longer valid. And this is a sweet diy. I'm good with mods but you just knocked out the guest work. Thanks for saving me some beer time in between steps ;)
Posted via Mobile Device

Sorry I missed the post someone answered h7's before as well as you stated but is there any specific company you prefer or wattage.
Posted via Mobile Device

If you do a search on ebay for "hid lights", you will see many listings. Here is one of several that resembles what I purchased (roughly same price with shipping!!):

http://tinyurl.com/mhbyno

And I bought the 4300K in a 35W. Everything in the package looks just like mine.

Why did you quote the entire DIY? :D

i just put the DDM slim line kit in my 09
didnt need to do any crap with those plastic washers just like i thought i wouldnt
i just used the spacer that came in the kit, cut one corner off and it fits perfectly

havent rode at night yet but its like the freakin sun is comin from my bike when i pull it in the garage lol got 8k or 6k, cant remember i got it off my other forums (mazdas247) for 90 with the lifetime warranty still :)

Why did you quote the entire DIY? :D

Fixed. :)

For one, I don't know what bulb type as I am picking up my 03 pre gen in less than 2 weeks

Sorry I missed the post someone answered h7's before...

pregens do not use H7 bulbs.

wait, isn't putting HID's in a reflective housing bad? [cuz it causes so much glare?]

wait, isn't putting HID's in a reflective housing bad? [cuz it causes so much glare?]

Yes but people do it anyway.. in any factory HID cars the bulb is never naked or exposed like when people put in HID's in the halogen housing..and that's just 1 problem regarding glare.

Retrofitting into H4 or 9007 (or any dual filament halogen system) is the worst since the light source location is extremely critical..and the aftermarket HID's are usually (in my experience) very low quality products since they aren't adhering to any sort of regulation or standards.:rolleyes:

Retrofitting OEM projectors and oem component is the way to go, without glare, and will deliver superior lighting over cheap plug and play bulbs (but it's still illegal).

wait, isn't putting HID's in a reflective housing bad? [cuz it causes so much glare?]

it depends on the housing and each vehicle responds in a different way. I have no problems with mine. cutoff is just fine compared to sock.

don't believe everything you read on the Internet... good or bad.... try it yourself, if curious. :)

from my experience,

1) they do indeed help me see better
2) they help others (especially cagers) see me better in day and night :)
3) they look cool! :thumbup:

it depends on the housing and each vehicle responds in a different way. I have no problems with mine. cutoff is just fine compared to sock.

don't believe everything you read on the Internet... good or bad.... try it yourself, if curious. :)

true true, but just for the record, all those damn civics and accords w/ HID's in their reflector housings runnin around NYC blind the CRAP out of oncoming drivers. :mad:

most times it's due to mis aimed headlights, plus the fact that they are idiots. :p

To be honest though, if they have a dual filament type of bulb setup (which a lot of those Hondas do), the aftermarket HIDs do not make the transition as well, so I would tend to agree with you as the reflector assembly/bulb center focus themselves are poor candidates for a HID kit.

Got mine installed today :D Will post pics and impressions tomorrow - it's getting too late now, and I need to go find some cornbread to eat ;) Also installing auxiliary turn signals on the back of my mirrors, relocating the rear turn signals, and putting on extra lights in the rear.... more details to follow

remember to repoint them, if they are not adjusted correctly.... the headlights, I mean. :p

I need to go find some cornbread to eat ;)

:thumbup:
I love corn bread :D

I did my hid install today with full fairing removal and lowering in 1 hr. I have installed hids in many cars so it wasn't anything new.

Just one problem I am having which doesn't seem to relate but my left turn signal is not blinking but on constant and almost like a bulb blow out but not, I checked. I was a clumsy idiot after getting everything back together and went to take the bike off the rear stand and poof the bike falls over to the right. No major damage and found out about the signal thing when I started to ride.

Any help would be great.

Regards
Chan

Feeling really stupid at the moment. Found out the problem. I forgot to plug the left side back in after taking the fairing off.

Feeling really stupid at the moment. Found out the problem. I forgot to plug the left side back in after taking the fairing off.

lol... I've had that happen to me before. :lol:

remember to check the headlight aiming after doing the HIDs.

Simplest things are always the culprits. They are aimed perfectly now since its dark..

They are aimed perfectly now since its dark..

Just curious, what time does it get dark in Kent, WA? I remember when I was in Seattle, it was sunny longer since you're up North. Must be nice for riding and not having to go home as early as us down here

Around this time a year the sun goes down are 9 and fully sets around 9:30ish. Yeah its nice to have sun longer. Winter time its like 5 sucks...

I aimed my lights and rode and they seem to high and when i check behind a car the cutoff is about an inch below the trunk line. I tried to adjust more turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise and it's tight and won't want to move. Help!!

I aimed my lights and rode and they seem to high and when i check behind a car the cutoff is about an inch below the trunk line. I tried to adjust more turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise and it's tight and won't want to move. Help!!

That should be good, as far as aiming.

The beam seems too high when i ride and lights up trees and what not but not the road. Only glare beaming off the lights reflecting on to the road. I would like to try to adjust lower to the road.

Did I mention i am lowered in front and rear. Could this be the problem? That my rear is lower than the front hence light pointing up too much? I will take a pic. Kinda annoying that the lights are lighting up half a house up top and not below.

Chan

you adjusting the correct things? blue adjusts vertical, yellow adjusts horizontal.

The next picture shows the back of the nose piece, which details the headlight lamp housing, after the low beam (left side) bulb was replaced and the rubber housing was modified. The blue and yellow arrows detail the adjusting screws for the light beams.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=97

ok, so I'm pretty much finished with the electrical things I was doing - as we need to wait on another garage door opener after the hubby fried the last one when soldering it... before I get everything buttoned back up ... if the cut offs are in the same location on the garage door, they should be pretty well aimed, correct?

Turning the blue arrow (vertical) counterclockwise and won't go anymore. Very tight.

Turning the blue arrow (vertical) counterclockwise and won't go anymore. Very tight.

make sure the bulb is seated flat in the headlight socket.

Kim- that's how I aim mine... on the garage wall marked with a piece of blue masking tape as a reference. You might need to fine tune once you get the bike on the road.

I installed my 10000k HID lights on my bike and noticed the headlights get extremely hot, along with the ballasts, is this normal?

I installed my 10000k HID lights on my bike and noticed the headlights get extremely hot, along with the ballasts, is this normal?

HID's burns cooler than halogen..you probably just never noticed how hot stock bulbs were before!

I guess that might be true, but still makes me kinda nervous. I let my bulbs burn for 10 minutes, when I touched the headlight "glass", I had to remove my hand immediately, that's normal?

DAMN, now I need 2 buy HID lights...will I ever stop spending $ on this little bike???????????:mad:

Thank God Gary already did this!!!!

Thank God Gary already did this!!!!

with this excellent diy, it wasn't too hard. like other diys on here, it eliminated a lot of the trial and error.