I'm curious about what 300/2013 250 parts fits the previous Ninjette models. Kawasaki plans a lot of farkles for this one too.

If anyone can clarify these, I'd be thankful:
Fitted tank bag? The tanks are clearly different but still a very similar general shape. I guess it depends on hot "fitted" it is.
Engine/frame protectors? The engine does mount differently (rubber) and the fairings are very different, but I'm still curious. Strange that Kawi sells these!
Sprocket cover? I've seen the J/K series one on a '86/'87 model here, so it seems to have had a long fitment run over many styles. This one has fewer bolts though.
Engine cases covers? Ninja250.org has instructions for swapping '86/'87 with '88-'07 stator covers and said the clutch covers between previous gens swapped without modification. While I doubt the clutch covers are that easy this time around, perhaps the whole FCC slipper clutch can be transferred.
Wider rear tire? Seems that it could Plug 'n' Play with the J/K bike. Does it? Front no longer has a mechanical speedometer cable so spacers and such might make it harder to swap.
Rearsets? These have been swappable for the longest time, so I do wonder if the new style can be swapped. They swap. :thumbup:
Rear tire hugger? The swingarms look identical to me, though it may have a new mounting hole or two.
Handlebars/triple? These look identical but, well, confirmation would be good. :)

Edit:
Handlebars and triples confirmed to be the same Kawasaki part number below. Controls have obvious changes (no choke, differently-shaped levers, passing light, etc) but lever perches are the same. The RH control box is the same.
Rearsets confirmed:
I went out and bought a 300 today. When I got home I had to confirm a couple of things.
My first suspicion was that was mostly unchanged that the rearsets would be the same. I had my factory rearsets from my 250 laying around so I decided to try them out. They bolted up perfectly. This means that any aftermarket rearsets made for the 08-12 250R should work. The upper fork tubes also measure out the exact same so aftermarket clipons will also work.
I still have to check the exhaust, air filter and rear suspension. I have a feeling they will all be the same way. I'll keep you updated.

Subscribed!

160 rear tire:
88aFdzyljlo

Also curious if the front fender fits.

Looks like the clip-ons and rearsets will fit for sure.

I hope the clutch and brake levers fit cause I just bought some for my 300 from the the2wheels. I got the CNC Folding Extendable Clutch Brake Levers. I will update in regards once received :)

Using same small magnetic tankbag on new bike. Tank shape is a little different, more rounded when viewed from the side, with less of a flat surface for the bag to sit on. The one I use is small enough and flexible enough that all of the magnets can still retain a good grip on the metal tank. Very glad they still are using a completely metal tank rather than half covering it with plastic like some other sportbikes.

Swingarm might be similar, but the new-gen swingarm would have to be modified in some way to allow for the hugger to attach. There are two holes that it screws into directly on the flat center part on the 2013's, along with the mounts over the chain.

Using same small magnetic tankbag on new bike. Tank shape is a little different, more rounded when viewed from the side, with less of a flat surface for the bag to sit on. The one I use is small enough and flexible enough that all of the magnets can still retain a good grip on the metal tank. Very glad they still are using a completely metal tank rather than half covering it with plastic like some other sportbikes.

Swingarm might be similar, but the new-gen swingarm would have to be modified in some way to allow for the hugger to attach. There are two holes that it screws into directly on the flat center part on the 2013's, along with the mounts over the chain.

Good info. Thanks. I was specifically wondering about the optional Kawi tank bag but I doubt it's available yet for anyone to know. I don't know if it's magnetic or not.

what about the position of the motor mounts????! :D:thumbup:

You're a ****ing liar

You're a ****ing liar

Yes. Yes I am. *grinning*

Yes. Yes I am. *grinning*

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b276/seanvoight/36293NKALojUm_zps99e8fa38.gif

Its more important what aftermarket parts fit the 300.

Need to order rearsets and bars.

(And get akrapovic or fmf cracking on a full system, some race glass, and Bazazz to do their thang)

It will be interesting to see how rearsets are on this bike. They should hopefully help the one quirk with this bike in that on the exhaust side your heel tends to be right on the exhaust can unless your riding straight up.

It will be interesting to see how rearsets are on this bike. They should hopefully help the one quirk with this bike in that on the exhaust side your heel tends to be right on the exhaust can unless your riding straight up.

Happening with the balls of your feet up on the pegs?

Happening with the balls of your feet up on the pegs?


No more when your on the front flat of the foot right before the toes or of course when on your toes. I tend to move my feet around....

I hope the clutch and brake levers fit cause I just bought some for my 300 from the the2wheels.


Anyone?
This is the reply I received from the2wheels:
Thanks for your enquiry.

We do not have levers fit for 2013 Kawasaki Ninja 300.

Best Regards,
Sam

Anyone?
This is the reply I received from the2wheels:

I am not suprised they said that because they probably dont have a 300 there to compare. As far as I can tell the 250 and 300 control are the same but I guess I am who will find out real quick. :) Mine shipped the other day.

I am not suprised they said that because they probably dont have a 300 there to compare. As far as I can tell the 250 and 300 control are the same but I guess I am who will find out real quick. :) Mine shipped the other day.

Post a DIY :thumbup:

Post a DIY :thumbup:

It will either be a DIY or a For Sale Thread Lol if it doesn't work.... :D

lol, the other issue is that if you replace the MC, with say a brembo, that may effect the lever system again as well. I'll have to look into this, as I hate doing a mod that's eventually obsolete based on another mod. . . .
I don't suppose anyone knows if a Brembo 18/19 MC would work on the 300?

lol, the other issue is that if you replace the MC, with say a brembo, that may effect the lever system again as well. I'll have to look into this, as I hate doing a mod that's eventually obsolete based on another mod. . . .
I don't suppose anyone knows if a Brembo 18/19 MC would work on the 300?

What are the perks of this mod?

OK, I compared the parts diagrams between the 2012 EX250J and the 2013 EX300 and made the following observations:

The front fender may swap, but it wouldn't be a flawless swap. Looking at the metal stay fender mount, (35030-0006 on J-series, 35030-0055 on 300), it appears largely the same except for a few obvious differences. The Ninja 300R doesn't have the routing for the brake and speedometer cables, but that likely wouldn't affect fender fitment. The left fork has obviously changed due to no longer mounting a speedometer gear but, eyeballing the diagram, the lowest fender stay mounting point looks higher than on J-series. It probably wouldn't be needed (especially with the two bolts on top), but the unused mount point might look funny even if you trim the part of the stay that protrudes down to it. Eyeballing the fender, it seems that the fins don't protrude as far down the forks as they once did. It makes sense because those fins are supposed to protect non-existent USD fork tubes, but the look still went a long way to making it look like a supersport. Even if we don't have USD forks, I actually like the J-series fender design better anyway. :)

The upper triple clamp is the same part number (44039-0056-18R). Unless the fairings, windscreen, gauges, or inner shroud changed enough to interfere, it should fit any related clip-ons or accessories from the J-series.

Brake levers are exactly the same part (46092-0028). The entire cylinder, reservoir, lever, etc are exactly the same (43015-0110).

Front axle is the same (41068-0024) but spacers and forks are likely different due to elimination of speedometer gear and new brake setup, so don't expect a straight swap unless swapping forks and using an alternative speed pickup (Koso gauge magnetic pickup, for example). Rear axle is also exactly the same (41068-1223). That alone certainly won't tell us if that means the rear tire will bolt on with no changes, but you'd want a matching front wheel anyway.

As expected, the left and right handlebars (39058-0007-18R and 39058-0008-18R) are identical.

Strangely, the left-hand grip part number has changed from 46075-1144 to 46075-0564 despite the style looking the same and it obviously going on the same handlebars. The right-hand control housing/assembly is the exact same (46091-0205) but the throttle assembly has changed from 46019-0001 on the EX250J to 46019-0060 on the EX300. My guess is that the grip length changed slightly. That shouldn't matter if you slide some things around on the handlebars. Worst case scenario is spacing your bar-ends, getting new bar ends, or drilling new holes for the pegs in the controls and perches.

The clutch lever *has* changed from 46092-0030 to 46092-0043, but the perch and pivot bolts stay the same (13280-0295 and 92154-0066), so it's almost guaranteed to fit. It could be something as trivial as it now being knurled, painted differently, shaped with finger indentations or the length could be ever so slightly different to match the theorized grip length changes. Remember: The left-hand control housing should use less space due to no longer needing a choke lever. I'm actually curious now if these are the same part numbers from the EX250K (2008-2012 FI/Euro-spec Ninja 250R).

The owner's tool kit now comes with one less allen wrench, one less Phillips blade (no #3PH), and no spark plug tool (16MM). :(

Kawasaki shows Dunlop Arrowmax GT501 tires for the 2012 model EX250, which was only stock on some 2008 bikes so I can't confirm the part number difference for the 110/70/17 front tire (reviewers say Kawi claims tire was reformulated or made stickier). In case anyone else can find the Kawi part number for the IRC RoadWinner front 110/70/17 front on the EX250, the EX300 part number is 41009-0514.

In case anyone was wondering if their 300 will need a new shim kit for valve jobs: valve shims have the same part numbers for the same thicknesses, so they are the same diameter. No, I'm not going to list the part numbers for each size.

OK, I compared the parts diagrams between the 2012 EX250J and the 2013 EX300 and made the following observations:

The front fender may swap, but it wouldn't be a flawless swap. Looking at the metal stay fender mount, (35030-0006 on J-series, 35030-0055 on 300), it appears largely the same except for a few obvious differences. The Ninja 300R doesn't have the routing for the brake and speedometer cables, but that likely wouldn't affect fender fitment. The left fork has obviously changed due to no longer mounting a speedometer gear but, eyeballing the diagram, the lowest fender stay mounting point looks higher than on J-series. It probably wouldn't be needed (especially with the two bolts on top), but the unused mount point might look funny even if you trim the parts of the stay that protrudes down to it. Eyeballing the fender, it seems that the fins don't protrude as far down the forks as they once did. It makes sense because those fins are supposed to protect USD fork tubes, but the look still went a long way to making it look like a supersport. Even if we don't have USD forks, I actually like the J-series fender design better anyway. :)

The upper triple clamp is the same part number (44039-0056-18R). Unless the fairings, windscreen, gauges, or inner shroud changed enough to interfere, it should fit any related clip-ons or accessories from the J-series.

Brake levers are exactly the same part (46092-0028). The entire cylinder, reservoir, lever, etc are exactly the same (43015-0110).

Front axle is the same (41068-0024) but spacers and forks are likely different due to elimination of speedometer gear and new brake setup, so don't expect a straight swap unless swapping forks and using an alternative speed pickup (Koso gauge magnetic pickup, for example). Rear axle is also exactly the same (41068-1223). That alone certainly won't tell us if that means the rear tire will bolt on with no changes, but you'd want a matching front wheel anyway.

As expected, the left and right handlebars (39058-0007-18R and 39058-0008-18R) are identical.

Strangely, the left-hand grip part number has changed from 46075-1144 to 46075-0564 despite the style looking the same and it obviously going on the same handlebars. The right-hand control housing/assembly is the exact same (46091-0205) but the throttle assembly has changed from 46019-0001 on the EX250J to 46019-0060 on the EX300. My guess is that the grip length changed slightly. That shouldn't matter if you slide some things around on the handlebars. Worst case scenario is spacing your bar-ends, getting new bar ends, or drilling new holes for the pegs in the controls and perches.

The clutch lever *has* changed from 46092-0030 to 46092-0043, but the perch and pivot bolts stay the same (13280-0295 and 92154-0066), so it's almost guaranteed to fit. It could be something as trivial as it now being knurled, painted differently, shaped with finger indentations or the length could be ever so slightly different to match the theorized grip length changes. Remember: The left-hand control housing should use less space due to no longer needing a choke lever. I'm actually curious now if these are the same part numbers from the EX250K (FI/Euro-spec Ninja 250R).

The owner's tool kit now comes with one less allen wrench, one less Phillips blade (no #3PH), and no spark plug tool (16MM). :(

Kawasaki shows Dunlop Arrowmax GT501 tires for the 2012 model EX250, which was only stock on some 2008 bikes so I can't confirm the part number difference for the 110/70/17 front tire (reviewers say Kawi claims tire was reformulated or made stickier). In case anyone else can find the Kawi part number for the IRC RoadWinner front 110/70/17 front on the EX250, the EX300 part number is 41009-0514.

In case anyone was wondering if their 300 will need a new shim kit for valve jobs: valve shims have the same part numbers for the same thicknesses, so they are the same diameter. No, I'm not going to list the part numbers for each size.

I didn't realize they hosted the diagram finally for the 300 wooohaaa thank you. The clutch lever is a different part because it is a different shape so the reach is shorter from what I understand so this means both levers I ordered will work perfectly. Woohaaaaaa again......

Thanks CZroe!

It will be interesting to see how rearsets are on this bike. They should hopefully help the one quirk with this bike in that on the exhaust side your heel tends to be right on the exhaust can unless your riding straight up.

If the balls of your feet are on the pegs, like they would be when racing, your heel shouldn't touch the pipe. If you put your arches on the pegs and you are sitting back in the seat with your feet really flat your heel can touch the heat shield.

I don't feel the heat shield while riding and in 700 miles I have only bumped the heat shield a couple times with my heel. My 600 has undertail exhuast so this is new to me lol

If the balls of your feet are on the pegs, like they would be when racing, your heel shouldn't touch the pipe. If you put your arches on the pegs and you are sitting back in the seat with your feet really flat your heel can touch the heat shield.

I don't feel the heat shield while riding and in 700 miles I have only bumped the heat shield a couple times with my heel. My 600 has undertail exhuast so this is new to me lol

Agreed... I tend to move my feet around on the street for comfort more than anything and noticed how close the pipe is and my tendency to touch it. No melted parts thus far LOL and actually I am used to it more now but would like the pipe to have a bit more clearance.

As soon as the Area P full system is available I will be swapping it out for their 18" can.

How long did it take before aftermarket stuff was available for the 08 250 after it was introduced.

How long did it take before aftermarket stuff was available for the 08 250 after it was introduced.

We're STILL waiting for some things. :rant:

Anyway, 2fiddy.com seems to be an excellent timeline of things until 2009 when it practically fell off the face of the planet.

Edit:
It goes back to page 17, so you may want to start from there
http://www.2fiddy.com/page/17/

We're STILL waiting for some things. :rant:

Anyway, 2fiddy.com seems to be an excellent timeline of things until 2009 when it practically fell off the face of the planet.

Edit:
It goes back to page 17, so you may want to start from there
http://www.2fiddy.com/page/17/

It seems like it did not take that long for the aftermarket to start rolling out their parts. Can't wait for a full Yoshi exhaust and integrated taillight. When I recieve my bike I plan on modding after break in.

It looks like the SSR pre load adjusters from the 250 fit the 300 as well as clip ons from the 250. They are up for sale on ebay for the 300. I also believe 250 rear sets fit the 300 (not 100% though, bolt patterns look similar.) Grips and bar ends are also the same from the 250 so aftermarkets are already available. I am not sure about levers but they do look the same as the 250.

Edit: Levers are also available for the 300 on ebay from the 250 so they seem to be the same.

It looks like the SSR pre load adjusters from the 250 fit the 300 as well as clip ons from the 250. They are up for sale on ebay for the 300. I also believe 250 rear sets fit the 300 (not 100% though, bolt patterns look similar.) Grips and bar ends are also the same from the 250 so aftermarkets are already available. I am not sure about levers but they do look the same as the 250.

Edit: Levers are also available for the 300 on ebay from the 250 so they seem to be the same.

For some reason the part numbers on the grips changed. I think that the length of the left grip changed now that there is no choke lever and the right hand changed to match. I'm very curious to know if the '08-'12 EX250K (EU-spec FI 250R) had the same part numbers. Also, the clutch and brake lever perch part numbers are the same, so we already guessed that levers would be compatible, though we already knew that the lever angle was tweaked to reduce reach, so those part numbers changed predictably.

It turns out that the EU-spec EX250K grips matched the EX250J and not the EX300. Of course, the left-hand control housing/assembly part numbers are different between EX250J (46091-0206; choke lever), EX250K (46091-0207; no choke lever), and EX300A (46091-0249; passing light lever; no choke lever).

According to the European parts diagram, the IRC tires are 41009-0251 (front 110-70-17) and 41009-0252 (rear 130-70-17). The US parts catalog has them but can't match either to any US bike models, so it seems that Kawi only offers Dunlop GT501 as the OEM tire even though they ship with IRCs. Weird. I have to wait until a Euro retailer lists the EX300 parts diagram to know if the front tire compount and part number truly changed.

The EX300's imperceptibly updated throttle assembly and left grip both match the '12/'13 ER650/EX650, and '13 KLE650 (Versys). Whatever slight update was made, it still has wide fitment and was likely changed to accommodate something for one of these other models, though it was not listed as a compatible part that supersedes the old parts as replacements. They probably wait until the old parts are out of stock to update that part of the DB, but it may be wise to wait and verify fitment of any kind of throttle-related part.

Any of you guys know whether the seat is the same from the 250r? It would be nice if it were, as then the aftermarket seats would also fit. The stocker is a little on the hard side.

The seat is definitely different. Whether the base is the same and if it is interchangeable with the new-gens, that's a good question to resolve.

Too bad they didn't improve the rearset mount or the frame portion, making it bit more solid.

Tagging this thread. I'm interested in seeing if slip-ons for the 250r still fit on the 300?

Tagging this thread. I'm interested in seeing if slip-ons for the 250r still fit on the 300?

Yoshimura slip-on fits
f0G-RusMNd0

someone find me engine mount diagrams!

Peanut_EOD confirmed rearset swap-ability! :thumbup:

Hey, Alex: Can you edit the thread title to "Time to talk about what 300 parts fit previous models!"? If so, that'd be awesome. Thanks!

The seat is definitely different. Whether the base is the same and if it is interchangeable with the new-gens, that's a good question to resolve.

Has anyone tried to swap seats yet?
I wanna know if the Corbin will bolt on.

Unlikely. They mount differently.

Word on the street , other forums, is that the k&n air filter for the 250r fit this baby as well. I will order one for my self and verify because they did mention austrailian part numbers and I'm in florida so ill give it a try

Word on the street , other forums, is that the k&n air filter for the 250r fit this baby as well. I will order one for my self and verify because they did mention austrailian part numbers and I'm in florida so ill give it a try

Will you also be spending $200 to retune your ecu or are you just gna destroy your engine?

Don't change the air/exhaust until someone makes an ecu management device readily available. It's not worth it.

Will you also be spending $200 to retune your ecu or are you just gna destroy your engine?

Actually free if i go during my brother in laws break at kawasaki. But i have to wait till they get a new pc interface cord because they seem to have lost it or something.

Actually free if i go during my brother in laws break at kawasaki. But i have to wait till they get a new pc interface cord because they seem to have lost it or something.

I don't think the stock one is programmable/tunable. Is it?

I read from one of the EU members last year that the dealer can reflash the ecu or something.

I've read the same thing about Triumph Daytona 675's. Triumph has a map at the dealer that works perfectly with the Arrow full exhaust (or whichever full exhaust that you use) and they'll put it on your ecu, no worries.

what about the engine mounts?

Still waiting on Alex to see if those HH EBC pads will work :p

Sorry about that Tri! Been a little preoccupied. But yes, it turns out that the pads fit fine, and I had them on the bike for this Sunday's ride. The weird part is they still aren't working that well. They always take some time to bed in, and hopefully their feel will continue to get better, but initially they behaved much worse than the stock pads.

I'll update as I get a better handle on them over the next few hundred miles. I owe you a new set of FA197HH's, and I'm happy to ship them directly to your house if that's OK.

Sweet! I'm glad they fit. Did you break them in before your ride? I'm ok if you want to ship them or if you just want to send me a paypal payment for the cost of a set. Saves you from having to ship and I actually don't really need them just yet.

Just sent you $, thx! I tried to break them in, with moderate braking for awhile, and have gone to harder braking to try and get them bedded in. I am onto max braking force by the end of that ride, and they are still just OK. They work fine, but I hope they come in even better, as the difference from stock to where they are now isn't much different at all.

Is the 300 the same weight as the 250? Strange that the HH pads feel like organics. I wonder if bleeding the brakes with better fluid would make a difference?

I got the money. Thanks!

New fluid and SS lines! Be the guinea pig Alex!!

The other option is to just replace it from the lever/MC all the way to the caliper with the 250R parts. We know those are good enough to do stoppies.

Is the MC different?

It looks like the mc & rotor are identical. I don't have any reason to believe why it should feel different at this point. Time will tell.

That pretty much leaves the line and caliper right?

The caliper looks identical, and the line I'm sure is identical. In other words, I'm pretty sure the entire system is the same. It looks to be so, which is why I'm curious why I'm still not ecstatic about it.

Maybe you should lay off the Snickers bars :tongue::rofl:

Did the rake change at all? Maybe the brakes are actually performing correctly and something about the bike is causing a difference in braking?

The rake is more conservative, but I don't see how it would affect brake lever feel. :idunno:

How much weight did the bike gain? Something had to have changed.

I think it's just taking time for the crap from the prior pads to make its way off the rotors, and be replaced with the grippier crap from the new pads.

Everything comes back to the crap.

sh!t just got serious :)

The rake is more conservative, but I don't see how it would affect brake lever feel. :idunno:

So it's more about the feel of the lever and not the braking performance? If the rake changed, shouldn't that also affect how the bike brakes in regards to shifting it's center of gravity? Center of gravity may not be the best term to describe what I'm saying.

We're way overthinking this. :) With the stock pads, the bike required a very significant pull on the lever to get the bike to stop. The pads also got hot quickly, and it required an even higher pull on the lever to get the bike to stop. I upgraded the pads because I wanted better performance / better feel / less lever effort due to higher grip pads.

The new pads haven't provided as much of an improvement as I hoped. Initially they were terrible, but I know that the EBC's take a little while to bed in. Now they are probably up to what I was feeling with the stock pads. I hope they continue to improve.

None of this is particularly relevant to how the chassis feels while under braking, which actually is a noticeable improvement regardless of the pads; it's much, much harder to bottom out the front fork than it ever was on the 08-12 bikes.

it's much, much harder to bottom out the front fork than it ever was on the 08-12 bikes.

yeah, because you can't brake hard enough to do so! :p

Touche. :) As you might imagine, I was playing with it quite a bit on Sunday, and at one point brought the front wheel all the way to lockup at about 50 mph. Always fun to slide the front unintentionally! But released and was on my way with just a minor pucker moment. There is more than enough power to lock the wheel even at speed, it's just doesn't feel particularly great right now.

I've gotten good at locking the front on my mountain bike, but on a ninja? :eek:

Do we know the wiring diagrams yet? I'm interested in swapping over the left hand controls so I can get a high-beam flashy button because I flash when I pass and it's annoying to click up click down click up click down when I could just flash flash.

It would also get rid of my choke lever (which I don't need anymore) and clean up that a little bit.

Anyone bought/applied stomp grip to tank yet? Need to do my 300 and my SV.

Do we know the wiring diagrams yet?

Here are the wiring diagrams for the 300.

Exactly the same PC for the Ninja 300 as it is for the 250R FI... :)

http://hardracing.com/POWERCOMMANDERS/KAWASAKI.htm

Here are the wiring diagrams for the 300.

"EX300A with GPS unit"

Huh? Is there a factory GPS unit option?

Looking at the wiring differences, it appears that "GPS Unit" means factory alarm system. Doesn't seem like it was offered that way in the US. :idunno:

At least there's a PC out for it now. I want to see some numbers after some tuning. Kerry from Area P was hinting at some improvements that could be made over the stock map.

I got my levers from the2wheels.com and they fit perfectly and appear to be good construction. I am now able to adjust the levers just the way I like them. I will post some pics when I get a chance.

These are the ones I got including color of titanium on black shown below.

http://shop.the2wheels.com/CNC-Folding-Extendable-Clutch-Brake-Levers-Set-for-Kawasaki-Folding-Lever-Set-Kawasaki.htm

We're way overthinking this. :) With the stock pads, the bike required a very significant pull on the lever to get the bike to stop. The pads also got hot quickly, and it required an even higher pull on the lever to get the bike to stop. I upgraded the pads because I wanted better performance / better feel / less lever effort due to higher grip pads.

The new pads haven't provided as much of an improvement as I hoped. Initially they were terrible, but I know that the EBC's take a little while to bed in. Now they are probably up to what I was feeling with the stock pads. I hope they continue to improve.

None of this is particularly relevant to how the chassis feels while under braking, which actually is a noticeable improvement regardless of the pads; it's much, much harder to bottom out the front fork than it ever was on the 08-12 bikes.

Same results here, better than stock but still needs to get even better for me. They work, and I bedded them in with a dozen 50 MPH to full stops in the first ride. They got OKish, then better again with another 60 miles of hardish riding but not the power and feel I want. I'm thinking the master would be better as a 11mm piston or a swap to a 4 piston caliper will do the trick. They work well but lack that real 1 or 2 finger feel to them.

the best is to get a Brembo 4-pot for the front... :thumbup:

Do you have any more info on that? a link or what part number to look for? Bolt on conversion, donor bike? Thanks.

Here's the info for the adapter in the front, I'm using the one from Agras.
http://japan.webike.net/products/9648924.html
For the rear Brembo caliper I use this adapter from Beet.
http://japan.webike.net/products/9363732.html

And here you can see it mounted at my bike.

21941

Is that a stock master and good power and feel? Thank you for the links and pics. I ended up grabbing a right side 2002 GSXR 750 4 piston caliper to adapt.

Yes it's stock master and the power and feel is very good, braking a little bit harder is like throwing the anchor compared to stock.
Most of the time I only use one finger for braking since I also have steel braided brakelines.
Also the rear brake is much stronger then oem and with all the other mods my bike has a power gain there's the need to have stronger brakes.
Since the brakes at the 250 aren't the best I wonder why Kwaki's using the same s**t at the 300? But that's their way of saving money.

Excellent, thank you!

Here's the info for the adapter in the front, I'm using the one from Agras.
http://japan.webike.net/products/9648924.html
For the rear Brembo caliper I use this adapter from Beet.
http://japan.webike.net/products/9363732.html

And here you can see it mounted at my bike.

21941

Cool stuff, holy $350 adapter for the rear brake. Overkill for sure, I dont' even use mine lol.

The front adapter is pretty nice piece though, which brembo caliper and disc are you running?

Cool stuff, holy $350 adapter for the rear brake. Overkill for sure, I dont' even use mine lol.

The front adapter is pretty nice piece though, which brembo caliper and disc are you running?

Yes, the rear adapter is pricy but it's the only one you can get.

The caliper I'm using is this: http://japan.webike.net/products/154219.html

The brake disc was especially made from a german company for my bike on my request.

Is there a good thread on improving the caliper? It sounds like it'd be a worthwhile mod on the 300 but I'm not that aware of how the braking system goes together. Would buying the two items Somchai linked to be sufficient or do I need a custom disc like he got made?

Sorry for the full on newb mode questions.

The caliper I'm using is this: http://japan.webike.net/products/154219.html


Link is bad :(

Link is bad :(

Sorry about the link, here is the picture of my calipers

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23382&stc=1&d=1362229012

Yes, the rear adapter is pricy but it's the only one you can get.

The caliper I'm using is this: http://japan.webike.net/products/154219.html

The brake disc was especially made from a german company for my bike on my request.

spending money on a REAR brake upgrade is silly.

spending money on a REAR brake upgrade is silly.

I more than agree, if you can't lock your rear wheel at any speed on your ninja you're doing it wrong.

spending money on a REAR brake upgrade is silly.

Did I have to borrow money from you to pay for the upgrade?

Does anyone know if the PCV for the ninja 250 will fit the 300? kbryant

I've read the thread and i don't think I've seen confirmation if the rear wheel fits on the ex250. Does anyone know?

I've read the thread and i don't think I've seen confirmation if the rear wheel fits on the ex250. Does anyone know?

From what I've read they are definitely not the same wheel design, but they may still be compatible. I can see the allure of getting a wheel designed for the extra width on a 250 so I'm interested in this answer myself :)

Will the brake lines carry over? I'm in no mood of giving away my SS break lines to the new owner. What about brake pads? are they the same as well?

Everything that I have seen says that the pads and lines are the same.

Can anybody confirm the size of the swingarm spools? I want to buy a set for me and a friend (300 & 250), but there is a no return policy on sale items..

Also, I'm completely new to stands. Will a swingarm stand fit both? How about a front fork stand? Any other stands that I'm missing?

TY!

Can anybody confirm the size of the swingarm spools? I want to buy a set for me and a friend (300 & 250), but there is a no return policy on sale items..

Also, I'm completely new to stands. Will a swingarm stand fit both? How about a front fork stand? Any other stands that I'm missing?

TY!

Spools are pretty standard things. All Kawasaki bikes use 10mm spools.

Stands are adjustable; they're typically not specific to any bike at all.

Some spools require spacers. I gambled and bought these off eBay, they fit!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280964608617?item=280964608617

I think I remember reading somewhere that KTM 10mm spools won't work, but otherwise any should be fine. Just remember to throw on a bit of locktite too.

I think I remember reading somewhere that KTM 10mm spools won't work, but otherwise any should be fine. Just remember to throw on a bit of locktite too.

The problem is two-fold:
Conflicting reports on the correct thread pitch (I forget which is correct)
Threads often need to be re-tapped even new from the factory.

KTM probably uses the other thread pitch.

Anyone knows if the 300throttle bodies fit the 250? They are 32mm as compared to 28mm on the ninja

spending money on a REAR brake upgrade is silly.

Not necessarily.. Getting it lighter is a nice upgrade, and eliminating and preventing it from brake drag is also a great idea :thumbup:

Anyone knows if the 300throttle bodies fit the 250? They are 32mm as compared to 28mm on the ninja

Bigger is not always better. Think about air velocity, not just the possible volume of air. High speed air fills the cylinder and creates resonance (which effectively pressurize the intake at certain rpm ranges) in the intake. Slower air will not fill the cylinder as effectively or quickly. With a high revving engine intake velocity is important.

Also remember that injectors have a minimum pulse width that can make idling difficult for a small engine with large throttle bodies (that need large injectors for 14,000 rpm performance with those large TB's). Unless you have some major internal engine modifications and you really know what you're doing, you're better off sticking with the 28mm TB's and stock injectors.

I'd look more into getting a Power Commander that's able to control the ignition angle, take it to a dyno guy to have him adjust the fuel delivery and ignition timing perfectly for the highest octane gas you can consistently get your hands on.

will the pregen stock rear sets work on the new gen 08-12? I'm looking at cheap alternatives for replacements

Alex, is it possible to make this a sticky somewhere?

will the pregen stock rear sets work on the new gen 08-12?

I'm using rearset adjuster brackets on my pregen that were intended for an 08-12 ninjette. I'd assume the reverse is also possible.

I'm using rearset adjuster brackets on my pregen that were intended for an 08-12 ninjette. I'd assume the reverse is also possible.

Thanks, Chris! I'll see if I can find one local and test it out :thumbup:

will the pregen stock rear sets work on the new gen 08-12? I'm looking at cheap alternatives for replacements

Alex, is it possible to make this a sticky somewhere?

I'd consider it. Where might it make sense?

Has anyone confirmed if the engine mounts are or are not interchangeable between the different generations? I can't tell from the diagrams. I'd love to have the dampers on my pregen.

Pregen

32029 32029-1542 BRACKET-ENGINE,HEAD,LH
32029A 32029-1543 BRACKET-ENGINE,HEAD,RH

Newgen

31059 31059-0001 BRACKET-COMP-ENGINE,LH
31059A 31059-0002 BRACKET-COMP-ENGINE,RH

300

31059 31059-0061 BRACKET-COMP-ENGINE,LH
31059A 31059-0062 BRACKET-COMP-ENGINE,RH

the Pregen rearsets fit on the new gens

Has anyone confirmed if the engine mounts are or are not interchangeable between the different generations? I can't tell from the diagrams. I'd love to have the dampers on my pregen.

Pregen

32029 32029-1542 BRACKET-ENGINE,HEAD,LH
32029A 32029-1543 BRACKET-ENGINE,HEAD,RH

Newgen

31059 31059-0001 BRACKET-COMP-ENGINE,LH
31059A 31059-0002 BRACKET-COMP-ENGINE,RH

300

31059 31059-0061 BRACKET-COMP-ENGINE,LH
31059A 31059-0062 BRACKET-COMP-ENGINE,RH

After looking at pictures of the bracket, it'll work. Having that you mention it, it looks like you can swap the motor over onto the newgen 250 frame. I'm going to see if I can get measurements.

Sorry about the link, here is the picture of my calipers


Wait, with this rear brake, is the caliper below the swingarm rather than above? It could make wheel changes quite a bit easier.

EDIT: Found a close up of it installed and it does, sweet!

If anyone has questions about what parts fit what, we have plenty of 250 and 300s sitting around in various states of repair/disassembly. We can quickly answer most questions. It would be nice if you bought something in the process too ;)

Will the front brake rotor from a new gen, or 300 fit a pre gen wheel?

Will the front brake rotor from a new gen, or 300 fit a pre gen wheel?

No.
Stock new gen & 300 rotors are 290 mm in diameter, stock pre-gens are 260 mm in diameter

I know the rotors are larger. What I was asking is will it bolt to a pre gen wheel. Is the center hole the same, and the bolt pattern?

Thanks, Fast

Will the 250 08-12 rear hugger will fit the 300

Will the 250 08-12 rear hugger will fit the 300

The 250 has a chain guard but no rear hugger...

Haven't tried the disc comparison yet but other than the bolt pattern you must consider the caliper mount

The 250 has a chain guard but no rear hugger...

i know, i am just saying if the fitment is the same, you can look at the aftermarket 250 rear huggers to put them on a 300 then

i know, i am just saying if the fitment is the same, you can look at the aftermarket 250 rear huggers to put them on a 300 then

Yes, the 300 hugger fits the 250. It's been confirmed by PartsNinja.

Yes, the 300 hugger fits the 250. It's been confirmed by PartsNinja.

I think he's talking about the other way around. The 300 rear huggers have more spots to bolt down though so not sure why you'd use a 250 one...

I think he's talking about the other way around. The 300 rear huggers have more spots to bolt down though so not sure why you'd use a 250 one...

"Ahhhhhh, I see!" said the blind man.:dancecool:

"Ahhhhhh, I see!" said the blind man.:dancecool:

As he picked up his hammer, and saw.

I know I'm bumping a old thread...but did anyone confirm if the 300 front fender fits the 250?

Lower and upper triple clamps are also compatible between (08-12) 250 and 300 Ninja. Forks are same diameter as well but have different mounts for the caliper. Front axles is the same. Spacers are different on the non brake side due to elimination of the speedo drive.

Anyone need more checking I have all 3 generations of the 250/300 in my garage so can quickly take a look to compare at least visually and by way of measurement what could be compatible.

Will check on front fender and engine mounts later in the week.

Hi Rassie, hows it going with the engine mounts?

OK so got around to take some measurements this morning. Seems that we are in luck. The width of the lower rear mounts is the same on my 08 250 and on my 13 300. Both are 120mm. The upper mounts are also the same at 100mm.

Now those front mounts are a different story since the 300 has some rubber mounts there that I did not see on the older models (would have to strip off the fairings to confirm). However since the rear mounts are the same it will be easy to modify the front mounts to suit.

The distance between the lower and upper mount was difficult to measure but seemed to be the same as well at 180 to 185mm or somewhere in between. As I mentioned it is difficult to measure that distance but eyeballing it gives me 180 to 185mm and they both seem to be the same.

any info yet on primary exhaust pipes ?? do they interchange ?? is there enough clearance for a 250 aftermarket system to fit the 300 engine ?? the 300 has different routing because of new shape and lowered oil pan and oil filter facing front so I am still wondering...

I will find out eventually on Monday but if sone has already tried even a stock 300 on a 250 or sth...

I have tried the 300 headers on the 250 and it bolts straight on, no issues. Not sure about the reverse but could not see why you would want to do that. The 300 stock header pipe is larger than the 250 pipe, so would think there is minimal benefit.

I have tried the 300 headers on the 250 and it bolts straight on, no issues. Not sure about the reverse but could not see why you would want to do that. The 300 stock header pipe is larger than the 250 pipe, so would think there is minimal benefit.

right !! but...well, like I said.....
" is there enough clearance for a 250 aftermarket system to fit the 300 engine ?? the 300 has different routing because of new shape and lowered oil pan and oil filter facing front so I am still wondering..."

maybe I should have posted "racing"...

I will take a look and compare soon as I am in the garage again.

I will take a look and compare soon as I am in the garage again.

thank you very much Rassie !!

I checked and it does not look like the 250 pipe will fit the 300. The 300 motor has a different sump that comes down lower. I attached some pictures so you can see.

BTW the headers on the right are Tyga headers. I have an exhaust sitting on the shelf that was supposed to go on my track bike. It was too nice so I decored the stock muffler and I am using that instead.

I tried the 300 header and it hits the oil filter cover on the 250.

thank you Rassie for all details and pics and c-n for your important input... well I am already "manufacturing" my own exhaust system.... 10cm of 250's yoshi R-77 headers, then another 40cm (give or take) 2nd and 3rd cylinder stock ZX-12R exhaust headers :eek:, then again yoshi 2-1 merging (the stock ZX-12 pieces fit right into it... well it took lots of cutting and fitting and measuring again and again but I am building it the way I want it on low budget for my 345cc project (need the money for more important engine stuff)... tomorrow some welding to match and bond pieces and then again to fit the rest... changed the routing and chose for the 300's stock path to gain some length... thinking about taking out the left side of the bike...will see how it goes...

pics later on when it'll look more like an exhaust, still in pieces...
chose the stock ZX-12 cos I believe have right size (32,5mm ID) for what I am building and it was for free !! sitting in my garage for 12 yrs, was about time it came to use...

got to think about ID of the rest of the pipe till muffler...yoshi is 42mm IDfrom merge till 30 cm before muffler, then opens up gradually to about 50, then narrows down again a bit into the muffler...
think I'll keep a bit of that last part and make the rest out of 45cm ID pipe... hope I'll manage to avoid making the s-turn round the back of the oilpan to place the muffler on the right after all...

another thing to say btw since c-n mention the stock 300 fitting problem
a friend of mine recently managed to fit a stock 300 system on his '09 efi 250 kinda same way I am...
kept about 12-15cm of the stock 250 headers, then cut the first 7cm off the stock 300 fit and welded it back together, passes under the engine just fine, no clearance issues... however 2 things that can be major drowbacks...
1. because of that "tailoring", the holding points of the exhaust are off by about 2cm... had to cut and weld that too, and he had to use a spacer for bolting on the muffler to the rear footpeg...looks funny at the moment, going to match it up properly soon...first impression is that it works much better throughout the rev ranga but no dynoing for him... I don't know what he is going to do with mapping though (don't forget efi european versions), I think it will be necessary to adjust the AFR... it is a very cheap solution (cost him about 90$ including cutting and welding but huge improvement to original stock
2. most important... problem removing oil filter... routing of 300's pipes don't leave enough room for taking out cover and changing the filter so it will be necessary to remove right side fairing unbolt the muffler bolt and the chassis bolt so that the pipes can "hang" abit and give enough clearance for the job to get done... the way I saw it this is not for sone who is not experienced with DIY sevice and/or not having a serious tool kit...


one last thing to ask Rassie and cuong-nutz if I may... please measure the outside diameters of the primary pipes and that of the secondary, after the merging, just before it starts turning behind the pan, of the stock 300 just for comparison, since my friend is now on his way for the summer vacation and will be back in September... Rassie do the same on the 300 Yoshi if you have the time and courtesy... thank you both in advance!

The Yoshi pipe is 32mm at the header, then widens to 45mm after the collector and again widens at the exit from underneath to 53mm before it runs into the muffler.

300 stock exhaust piping
25.4 mm section going into the head
28.5 mm before the collector
38 mm after the collector
35 mm where exhaust slips over pipe

The Yoshi pipe is 32mm at the header, then widens to 45mm after the collector and again widens at the exit from underneath to 53mm before it runs into the muffler.

so now I can verify that all measurings concerning Yoshimura exhaust system is that 250 and 300 is completely IDENTICAL (but the routing of course)
After working with parts of it, what is left to be mentioned is that for every number Rassie is providing above, one must keep in mind a -3mm of inside diameter...
thank you Rassie for your quick response...:thumbup:

300 stock exhaust piping
25.4 mm section going into the head

precise same as 250's ...

28.5 mm before the collector

huge difference there...still 25.4mm for the 250 there

38 mm after the collector
35 mm where exhaust slips over pipe

I think that last measuring is what counts as far as secondary is concerned since after the collector is the cat I think and they gave it some space to not cut the flow so much... Thanks once again C-N !!:smile-beerglass:

I think that last measuring is what counts as far as secondary is concerned since after the collector is the cat I think and they gave it some space to not cut the flow so much... Thanks once again C-N !!:smile-beerglass:


my Measurements might be slightly off since my caliper could be off .4-.5 mm but I think what I gave you is close.

my Measurements might be slightly off since my caliper could be off .4-.5 mm but I think what I gave you is close.

:thumbup:

Sorry if this was already discussed, thread was tl;dr

But, does the ninja 250 seat fit the ninja 300?

Thanks :D

But, does the ninja 250 seat fit the ninja 300?


Yes for the 2013 plus fuel injected model 250. No for the 2008 to 2012 pre fuel injection models.

Yes for the [EX250L] (2013+ 250). No for the pre[vious] models.

FTFY :thumbup:

Yes for the 2013 plus fuel injected model 250. No for the 2008 to 2012 pre fuel injection models.

Dang it, I was hoping that when I eventually move up to the 300 I could take my corbin seat :(

Yea, would have been nice to leave the seat pan the same.

do the rims swap with ninja 300

from a new gen 250 ^^^^

Yes the rear will bolt right in, but remember it is a little narrower. The front will also go right in but you will need a spacer to insert where the speedo drive used to be or just keep the speedo drive. Also the 250 front rotor is a 6 bolt versus the 5 bolt on the 300, so you will have to keep the 250 rotor. They seem to be the same size otherwise. Not sure about the caliper mounts, they seem to be in the same position after quick measurement.

I know there was mention about the 08-12 250 front wheel being compatible with the 300. Would it work with the ABS version of the 300? I'm assuming, if I purchase the correct ABS part, it'll swap right onto the 250 wheel?

EDIT: Looks like it won't work. The bolt pattern is different for the rotor/ABS. 5 bolts vs 6 bolts.