The rear shock on the new 300's is adjustable, just like it was on the 08-12 models. And it's still a pain in the neck. :p The bike ships in position 2 (of 5), unlike the prior models which shipped in position 1. The bike felt a little unsettled for me at 2, so I wanted to up the preload a bit today to match what I was used to on the prior bike. And yes, I was able to complete it without drawing blood.

First, here's the tool you need from the toolkit:

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kRsvwhK/0/XL/i-kRsvwhK-XL.jpg

Here's how you're supposed to put it together for more leverage:

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KKKXDVf/0/XL/i-KKKXDVf-XL.jpg

But forget that, as you'll never get it in position with the arm that long. :D In fact, while trying to get the tool in there, I realized I'd never be able to get enough leverage with the hugger in place. So I figured it would be a piece of cake to remove the hugger. Not so much. The two bolts near the part that covers the chain are easy:

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CnbvMQW/0/XL/i-CnbvMQW-XL.jpg

But then I realized there are 2 additional bolts that attach the hugger to the swingarm directly in the middle. It is quite a chore to find a tool that can get to those bolts, and then apply enough leverage to break them loose the first time.

You can try with an allen wrench, but I was eventually successful with a standard 5 mm hex bit, on the end of a ratchet extension. Once loosened, this mini-ratchet worked great:

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3BmHNx9/0/XL/i-3BmHNx9-XL.jpg

Now with the hugger off, there is enough clearance (barely) to adjust the shock:

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8f6DWsH/0/XL/i-8f6DWsH-XL.jpg

You can see that it ships at position 2. To adjust it, you need to use that shock tool to turn the collar in the appropriate direction. If you turn it clockwise (facing down from the top of the bike), it lowers the preload. If you turn it counterclockwise, it increases the preload. From 2, I first adjusted it to position 3:

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6vbffL8/0/XL/i-6vbffL8-XL.jpg

And then adjusted it to position 4, before buttoning everything back up again. There's no magic to using the shock tool, it just takes some appropriately applied brute strength to both keep it in the right position, and turn the collar hard enough to get it to the next position. It's *very* easy to lose your grip, or have it pop out of the slot, and then you skin your knuckles as they bang against something sharp and metal down there. Be careful. And keep antibiotics nearby just in case.

I haven't had a chance to test-ride the bike with the stiffened preload, but looking forward to next weekend to do exactly that. :thumbup:

I was wondering what was taking so long for you to change something. I figured you would already have parts waiting to be installed before you got it.

This adjustment made a large improvement in the ride and handling of the bike. Between this and better tires, the bike is markedly easier to ride at speed.

I bumped mine down to position 1 a few days ago. I might bump it back up to 2.
I only weigh 100lbs so I don't know which to have it on.

I am moving mine to the 3rd position to see how that works now that I have a few miles on it and know how it handles on the curves moving around a bit. I only weight 155 so I suspect I will like the change at this point.

Alex: I'm wondering if you have a suggestion for which position to try. I weigh about 220 with gear, and every once in a while (though certainly not often with colder weather coming), my wife rides pillion. I was thinking 4? Or would you go ahead and move it up to 5?

No wrong answer. I'm a smidge heavier, and 4 seems to work just fine at the moment.

No wrong answer. I'm a smidge heavier, and 4 seems to work just fine at the moment.

Thanks! :thumbup:

http://i.imgur.com/jA0wo.jpg

My $.02, jack up the bike under the oil drain on a piece of wood and levered over on the sidestand. Drop the linkage bolts except the forward most frame mount and pull the whole shock out to adjust it on the bench. It is probably just as difficult and time consuming to do and you won't hurt yourself when the wrench slips off. I can have mine out in under 5 minutes. A helper is nice to have to hold a wrench on the opposite side of the bolts.

The access ports on the frame for the shock bolts just pop out.

And, for the bigger riders, look up my GSXR shock swap thread. Under $50 for full adjustability and rebuild-revalve ability.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=119304

Here's an informative video on SAG

awq-S8CSmB8

I was wondering how folks were adjusting the SAG on the 250. Without the ability to change settings on the forks (other than a respring or different weight fork oil) it would seem to make things out of balance. Neither forks or shocks allow for rebound settings etc right?

No adjustments, not stock anyway. :D

adjusting the positions of the rear shock from 1,2,3,4,5 is how you change the sag on the rear. Up front you remove the stock spacers and create your own longer or shorter spacer with pvc pipe. super easy.

someone above mentioned they were 100lbs and did not know what to set the spring at. 30-35% of the total travel for a road bike(like keith mentions in his vid) is a good starting point. whatever setting on the shock it takes to get the sag to that point with your weight on the bike is the right setting.

An easy way to get a general starting point is to measure a fixed point such as the top of the tail light when the bike is standing up. Next, get on the bike and and have somebody re-measure the height of the same fixed point. If the bike drops more than 2.5 inches, then you need to increase the preload. The shocks are basically dampeners and need to work with the pre-load springs for the proper rebound.

If you approach the bike from the left hand side you can adjust the spring without having to take the rear hugger off. you will need to use the tool provided without the extender and make sure your pushing down hard with your thumb on the end which is locked onto the adjuster to stop it slipping.

It is easier to adjust it once it is broken loose the first time. Getting enough leverage without the extension, would be a a bit a of a challenge, without skinning some knuckles.

It is easier to adjust it once it is broken loose the first time. Getting enough leverage without the extension, would be a a bit a of a challenge, without skinning some knuckles.

Hmm, I think I'll ask the guys at the shop to bump mine up to 3 for me just to loosen it up a bit. If I can sell my GSXR, I'm buying one! :D

I weigh about 165lbs, but with gear and such I'm probably more around 175.
can someone recommend a default setting i can start at to get me close?

Advice on weight and settings for ninja 300 rear shock preload and any one tried without the tool? I might be buying the rear shock for my pre gen ninja

Advice on weight and settings for ninja 300 rear shock preload and any one tried without the tool? I might be buying the rear shock for my pre gen ninja

I know a guy that uses a punch an a hammer, but he always rides janky stuff, stick with proper tools, they are awesome!!!

you callin my **** janky?

flat head screw driver and a rubber mallet. takes 10 seconds.

No you specifically said screw driver, I said punch... But hey if the shoe fits lace that multi-colored holy thing up

https://i.imgur.com/B6kWO9O.jpg

aint got no laces that tie. just dat velcro

Advice on weight and settings for ninja 300 rear shock preload and any one tried without the tool? I might be buying the rear shock for my pre gen ninja

Many riders use the method that Alex.s mentioned, hell I did too. I stopped using that method a while back though. It's just too easy to maul up the notches on the preload adjuster. Now I removed the rear wheel and use a large set of channel locks. Makes it easy and doesn't damage anything, I guess they don't make stuff like they used to :idunno:. But you should.... get a spanner, preferably a high quality one. You knuckles will thank you.

As far as setting it up, try running it on the 3rd notch and adjust up or down as needed.

Adjusting the collar is much easier if you unload the swingarm completely.

Lift the bike (assuming you have spools and a stand... you do have these, right? If not, get 'em.)

Put a block or jack stand under the shock linkage pivot (not under the shock), or suspend the bike from a ladder with a strap run through the passenger footpegs

Remove rear stand and allow the swingarm to hang free

Crank

Done

Many riders use the method that Alex.s mentioned, hell I did too. I stopped using that method a while back though. It's just too easy to maul up the notches on the preload adjuster. Now I removed the rear wheel and use a large set of channel locks. Makes it easy and doesn't damage anything, I guess they don't make stuff like they used to :idunno:. But you should.... get a spanner, preferably a high quality one. You knuckles will thank you.

As far as setting it up, try running it on the 3rd notch and adjust up or down as needed.

its true. it seems like they use aluminum for the adjuster on the ninja shocks. the r1 shock i have is very tough steel though. and the gsxr shocks i have are thread style double lock nuts, so its not even hard.

its true. it seems like they use aluminum for the adjuster on the ninja shocks. the r1 shock i have is very tough steel though. and the gsxr shocks i have are thread style double lock nuts, so its not even hard.

Yea... I just remember poor Kez in Feb. of 14 @Jennings when you and Ally were there with me. He buggered up the notches so bad even when he got a spanner, it wouldn't hold in the notch. If you remember, we did the big channellock deal, and was back out riding soon after. He was using a stock honda (cbrrr) rear. So I guess that was not hard steel. :(

guys thanks for info form my pre gen mods,

if I get the NInja 300 rear shock i'll try notch 3 but after re-reading GXSR 600 shock swaps and understanding it better I am leaning at an 2006-2009 Gxsr 600 rear shock and a 2007-2010 gxsr 1000 spring (8.1 kg/mm) for my weight without gear (150lbs to 165 lbs)..

but now waiting on confirmation that CCS allows these little mods for 250 spec class

hope I can make it to PBIR march 8!!! :D

8.1 seems a tad high for 150

8.1 seems a tad high for 150

but 150lbs plus 15lbs of gear..?

I saw that the calculator says no gear...

and just realized my pre gen ninja came with a new gen rear shock but still planning on doing the GXSR swap.... my current rear shock was at the highest preload and I can not tell you if it was too hard or not enough.. not enough experience.

You might want to run it w/o swapping to a GSXR shock at least 1-2 times..
That will give you
A) insight if you even need it
B) more time under belt to appreciate the differences if swapped.

Also 5 setting on 300 shock, should be on the stiff side for your weight.
I'm about same size with and without gear and I use 3 for daily commute and 4 if I want to goto Mnts.

You might want to run it w/o swapping to a GSXR shock at least 1-2 times..
That will give you
A) insight if you even need it
B) more time under belt to appreciate the differences if swapped.

Also 5 setting on 300 shock, should be on the stiff side for your weight.
I'm about same size with and without gear and I use 3 for daily commute and 4 if I want to goto Mnts.


A and B sound great, the swap once its all ready is easy, so I'll do grinding and such ( I have extra knuckles and will make dogbones) so future near swap is easy set up.

Thanks

To get more leverage to move the oem shock easier I inserted a large screwdriver into the end of our oem tools. Worked like a charm.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t71/reggae5/ninja/shock_zps31cd80ea.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/reggae5/media/ninja/shock_zps31cd80ea.jpg.html)

GSXR shock will give you great justability... Just spring it right.