So i change the oil slightly under 700 miles.
purchased Motul 3000 10w40 4stroke mineral oil
And now i don't know if its my head or what but you know that torque
Feeling once you really roll the throttle now it feels like that all the time
And sounds like it too even at super low rpms like 3 4 5 .
And ive put about 50 miles or so on it like that
Do you guys think i should use a part synthetic mix ?
Or what ? I personaly liked my bike being smooth like before

Is 10w40 the grade the manufacturer recommends?

Synthetic or not doesn't make a difference, except in the generation of carbon deposits after some time.

However, if the new oil is labeled as "Energy Conserving" (EC) or "Resource Conserving", it will make your clutch slip under acceleration loads, which is very bad.

Check these links out:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands#Which_oils_should_not_be_used.3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Engine_Oil

So i change the oil slightly under 700 miles.

purchased Motul 3000 10w40 4stroke mineral oil

And now i don't know if its my head or what but you know that torque

Feeling once you really roll the throttle now it feels like that all the time

And sounds like it too even at super low rpms like 3 4 5 .

And ive put about 50 miles or so on it like that

Do you guys think i should use a part synthetic mix ?

Or what ? I personaly liked my bike being smooth like before

I'm alittle lost.

I like full synthetic Mobil 1 supa dupa moda sickle oil.

I'm not sure what the OP means. Feels like what?

Okay you know when you roll the throttle hard and the bike punches forward and you really feel the power. Well imagine that same feeling and sound minus the power because its doing this at low rpms like if i was redlining it or something like it screams when I'm bearly giving it gas

Still lost!

Dafuq?

Sounds like;

Bad clutch work
Cush drive breaking in
Chain to loose

I still don't get it. :idunno: Post up a video.

Did you use Energy Conserving oil? I would use dino oil instead of synthetic for another few hundred miles, just to be safe.

Is your clutch not disengaging properly when you let the lever out the whole way? Check the whole length of the cable for sticky points. Check the little adjustment nut right on the lever.

No energy saving oil just regular motorcycle oil non synthetic mineral 10w40

And a kawi filter from the dealership.

The best i can explain it is the sound is more like clakity clank
Lol and the engine feels like its labored like its trying soo hard .
Imagine just riding around in first gear . That sorta feeling .
I went to the dealership the mech told me sometimes the bike feels different just from changing the oil because the slight diffrences in the brand but that i shouldnt worry too much about it. Of course he didn't ride it or hear it we where just talking about it.
Befire it use to feel so smooth when i was crusing and then i would get that nice loud noise when i really wanted some speed but now it just sounds like that all the time.

How much experience do you have with the mechanics of bikes?

Is there proper slack in the clutch lever?

Your writing is also sort of hard to understand :rant:

Expirience with mechanics of bike is absolute zero . While changing the oil i pourd half a quart with the plug off then started the bike with the ebgine cap off. I think once i pay off the extended waranree on tuesday ill take it to them and actually have them ride it.

Its very hard to explain how the bike feels to me now as oppose to how it use to feel.

Right now i just rode to a starbucks and i notice in third no matter how much throttle i gave it the increase in speed was minimal compared to how high the revs where going , but before third gear use to haul ass
That probably makes little sense lol but its the best way i can explain it.

Does it feel like the engine is spinning up without transferring all it's torque to the wheel? If so, it sounds like your clutch might be slipping. Check to make sure that the clutch is completely disengaged when the lever is released. If there's no slack in the line, the clutch won't fully disengage, and it will slip.

Okay this is my last attempt only for the sake of you guys understanding my pain
You make me feel like i am socially challeneged or something lol

Okay so i use to sit at a red light anxiously waiting for the green
Then bam the green light came on
1St gear quite short but second and third got me ahead of all the cars.
I would always shift at around 5k

However after this dam oil change
I'm at a red light and i try to zip out of there but I'm making all this loud engine noise
But hardly going anywhere and revs are like freaking 9k and i should mention when i changed the oil and wasted some of it on the floor i had to ride to the store and home on low engine oil :( maybe i ****ed it up

Expirience with mechanics of bike is absolute zero . While changing the oil i pourd half a quart with the plug off then started the bike with the ebgine cap off. I think once i pay off the extended waranree on tuesday ill take it to them and actually have them ride it.

Its very hard to explain how the bike feels to me now as oppose to how it use to feel.

Right now i just rode to a starbucks and i notice in third no matter how much throttle i gave it the increase in speed was minimal compared to how high the revs where going , but before third gear use to haul ass
That probably makes little sense lol but its the best way i can explain it.

Let me get this straight.
You drained the oil, switched out the filter put about 1/4 the recommended volume of oil in & fired it up:eek:

(I'm assuming about 1/4, the 250 uses 1.7L or so on a oil + filter change)

You posted while I was typing (& watching the godfather)

i should mention when i changed the oil and wasted some of it on the floor i had to ride to the store and home on low engine oil :( maybe i ****ed it up

I think you are begining to see what caused the problem

Let me get this straight.
You drained the oil, switched out the filter put about 1/4 the recommended volume of oil in & fired it up:eek:

(I'm assuming about 1/4, the 250 uses 1.7L or so on a oil + filter change)

No no lol i wasted half of one and put in two full quarts. And its a ninja 300 takes about 2.5 and i put 2 quarts then went to store and put in the rest .5

i'm going to guess your clutch is burned out or the slipper is damaged.

your going to have to take it to the dealer, or pull the cover.

No no lol i wasted half of one and put in two full quarts. And its a ninja 300 takes about 2.5 and i put 2 quarts then went to store and put in the rest .5

OK while that's not exactly good it's a lot better than how I read it first.

It's sounding like clutch trouble. if you've no experience of working on bikes I'd say get it to your dealer.

ok, nm i thought the same as whiskey and thought you ran the motor with no oil...

.......or the slipper is damaged.

Could you explain how the slipper works in this bike?

Could you explain how the slipper works in this bike?

i'm no expert but i figure it usually works when the rear wheel rotates faster than the output shaft. then the pressure plate disengages, and allows slippage until the revs match somewhat then gradually locks up.

i was thinking he may have damaged it by running the motor with no oil...
turns out i misunderstood him, he had oil and this probably didn't happen.

now it sounds like his clutch is just not engaging.

Thanks, Jason.

I repeat the previous question, Eddie:

Is there proper slack in the clutch lever?

If there is none, the clutch cannot disengage completely and the plates keep moving respect to each other: no good.

Your clutch is slipping a lot (rear tire does not follow the engine rpm's) and the higher the rpm of the engine while the bike moves slow, the more heat is produced in the plates and more permanent damage you may cause.

If you have to ride it, do it slowly.

Yeah there is pretty good slack there but I'm just going to take the bike to kawi tomorrow they are open at the dealership where i purchased it.
But what you guys are saying sounds about right. If the engine is working hard but less of it is going to the wheel.
If it is the clitch how did i mess it up?

I have two nagging things i do accidently.
1. Is right after first ill hear it click and i think I'm in second but actually went into neutral and end up reving the crap out of it. I hate when that happens. I might have to adjust the angle of the shifter so that i actually kick it all the way up.

2. I'm a new rider so maybe I'm doing this wrong but when I'm headed to a red light i just pull and hold on to the clutch and release throttle and just start downshifting and when i get to first gear it does this nasty knocking noise like taking a bat and running it through a jail cell lol so i think i shouldnt be downshifting to first while I'm still moving too fast.

Wish they told me this at the dam msf

Yes, Eddie, it is important to adjust the shift lever so you don't need to force your feet while shifting up or down.

That over-rev didn't damage your bike.

The nasty knocking noise is that you are shifting into first too soon, before the bike has almost stopped.

That have not damaged your bike either.

If there is slack in the lever, I would take it to where you bought it.............but slowly!!