It had just occurred to me (or actually brought to my attention) that with this talk of air filters (and the ridiculous cost of the K&N drop-in filter I should bring my "Removing the air-box" thread over.
Welp no one seems to have done a how-to on installing air pods on here for the new 250's. That and I was hunting through K&N's catalog and after some measurements found a cool little air filter that would work bitching...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=235http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=234
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=233

You'll notice that it's an oval filter that has two openings so it covers both carburetors. In the last picture you can see the neck is tilted down so the air filter ducks down a bit and clears the frame nicely...

You can order it through any major auto parts store (Kragen, Napa, Autozone, etc.) K&N P/N "R-0990" .


As simple as this little filter is, getting the stock air box out is a PITA to put it lightly. I chronicled my way through tearing out the factory air box. I think it goes without saying that your results may vary and even though I listed this in steps, you may do it however you please. FUTHERMORE, if you are one of those ass clowns that thinks installing this is going to double your horsepower and fuel economy (Hell and that's simply by just putting the sticker on your bike alone) you're going to probably be disappointed. I was surprised after jetting and re-shimming the needles that this does have a huge increase in acceleration though! I don't have any HP numbers though, but I'm sure there was actually a good 5 hp increase (Which could be partly due to the fine tuning with jets). This is mainly a good 'mod' to allow easier carburetor tuning and to clean up a bunch of clutter out of your bike. It's also not the easiest thing to do so if you're not very mechanically inclined save your time and money on this one!

Edit: Also I learned the hard way that you NEED to re-jet before you can really run without the air box. If you're going to rip out the factory air box make sure you have a jet kit (with jet sizes 110-115 or so). Otherwise the bike will run so lean you won't be able to rev past 5k or so. (Look on the bright side, changing jets is a cinch after that damned air box is gone!)

OK... So to begin you literally have to rip everything imaginable off of your bike (I'm not kidding).

Step 1:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=219

Open up and remove the stock air filter. The seat's going to have to go and so are the front fairings

Step 2:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=220

You can see I've pulled the air filter, yanked the seat and lifted the gas tank. If you don't know how to remove the gas tank I can sum it up really quick, or you can read kkim's post on how to do this (http://www.kawiforums.com/showthread.php?t=110857). But basically make sure to disconnect the vacuum line to the fuel petcock, followed by the fuel line. Don't forget on the '08 models to disconnect the fuel level sensor as well (essentially anthing I circled in red). On the other side (I didn't show it) to disconnect either the single vent hose from the tank, or on California model tanks the 2 emissions hoses as well...

Step 3:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=221

Everything here has to be moved (The air filter box components come out HERE). Remove the tank 'cross member' and set it aside. Also take notice how FRIGGIN BIG that box is. It literally goes from the battery (to the left of my hand) to the carburetors (In front of the two intake hoses in the picture). Wow

Step 4:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=222

Might as well do the other side's disconnections now. The air filter box is mounted to the transmission via the screw circled in red. Remove this and let it hang there. It also has a clip to hold 2 wiring harnesses. Also circled in red is the breather which mounts to the bottom of the air filter box. Disconnect this bad boy

Step 5:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=223

I'm not kidding when I say everything imaginable has to go. Here I'm yanking the battery and battery box. ..

Make sure to disconnect the NEGATIVE battery lead followed by the positive battery lead. It's a good habit to get into. Also as you might have guessed those rear fairings? They've got to come off.

Step 6:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=224

To get the battery box out after you remove the top panel and leave it dangle, remove the battery AND remove the three screws holding the battery box to the frame...

There are two more screws underneath the battery pad which have to come out. I like to keep things together so I also circled in red the screws that hold the battery box down outside of the box. By keeping all these screws together in the battery box you're less likely to lose them.

Step 7:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=225

Sigh... After you've removed the rear fairings and tail light assembly you're ready to drop the mud guard. The mud guard is only really held in by 4 screws (And the tail light assembly which should already be removed). The two screws in the side that also hold the fairings on (which have already been removed to remove those fairings, and there's a screw on each side of the bike underneath the passenger peg mounts.

It's kind of blurry, but here I removed the two screws holding one of the passenger mounts on and have removed the screw (circled in red) holding that side of the mud guard in. Pheww. It's the same thing on the other side.

Step 8:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=226

I circled in red where the two intake hoses lead from the air box to the carburetors. I jabbed all around both hoses to break them free from their glue captors (I don't cater to their terrorism). With any luck you should be able to pull back slightly on the air box and separate the hose from the air box.

Step 9:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=227

Here's where it starts getting hard to explain as there's a lot of yanking and cursing. The air box is comprised of two compartments. The side which lends access to the air filter element is removable from the main compartment. I **** you not there's 8 or so screws all around the air box attaching this guy in. Remove all of the screws and then check because there's probably 2-3 more. With any luck you'll get them all and the two compartments will separate.

With the mud guard dropped a bit you can finagle the air box around and with a lot of effort should be able to yank the small air box compartment up. Here I am pulling it through.

...

There's one wiring harness that I didn't look into what function it serves that connects on the mud flap. You need to disconnect that (otherwise you can't swing the mud flap around)...

So with a little effort and while making sure nothing is snagging you should be able to pull the mud flap out a bit and spin it. The main chamber of the air box pulls through where the mud flap goes and is FREE AT LAST. I didn't catch any pictures of this as I was pretty pissed off trying to get everything free...

Edit: Thanks TheDuck for the pics of the bike disassembled! (I can lie and say their mine as MINE is also blue)
Here's a good idea of what you have to remove to take out this box (Something to consider)

http://www.duckshit.net/pics/p1060825_1.jpg

And the bike will wind up looking something LIKE...
http://www.duckshit.net/pics/p1060826_1.jpg

Next up I'll show more magical happy pictures as things go back together.

Ok so it begins:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=228

To fill the void...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=229
And another view...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=230

Ohh shiny
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=236

I always over look some mundane details. Here I forgot to pick up a breather (and at 1am no one is open to sell one) for the gear case. RATHER than leave this open (yikes) I threw a cheapy inline fuel filter I had lying around. I've now ran out to Kragen and picked up one of their cheapy breathers and popped it back on the original tube (zip-tied to hold it from flopping around) and life is good.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=232

I didn't notice this until now, but while showing how wide open the area is which used to be occupied with the air filter box... My damned Firebird's wheel obscures this. Oh well. Where you see wheel is in actuality 'wide open space' yeah!

...

I'll try to show some pictures of the old air box in its entirety (perhaps in a couple hours, who knows). With the 're-install' for this you more or less do the tear down in reverse. Nothing required fabricating new brackets or anything, so that's a + . Any questions or what not, just shoot me a line!

--VeX

Thank you, sir. :)


My contribution of a green bike apart and the holy mess one ends up with to get to pulling that :censored: airbox!!!

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SLkSlHJERTI/AAAAAAAAAxg/L-NQtiMoiGU/s640/DSC04522-1.JPG


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SLkSfjJF2-I/AAAAAAAAAww/ImUwPMqglJo/s640/DSC04516-1.JPG

...and for anyone interested, pictures taken during pulling the airbox and rejetting.

http://picasaweb.google.com/kkim993/AirboxAndRejet#

nice write up VEX.. I was wonder witch one of y'all was going to do this first... WInk Wink
I wonder wich one would be faster with out the plastics now?

Vex is always the stupid one to do stuff like this, first. I'm just stupider to follow. :happy130:
:iamwithstupid:

TJ,

I was working by the filter tonight and the silver clamps on the filter were pretty loose. Just a reminder to keep an eye on them as when I installed my filter I made sure to tighten those clamps pretty damned tight.

Also, I didn't like how the filter was unsupported and would vibrate a lot, so I rigged up some tie wraps to act as a brace. It's ghetto to the max, but the entire carb and filter assembly is now nice and solid. You may want to try this with yours. :)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SZkfWGUwF0I/AAAAAAAACvc/Svwl5yexUYU/s640/DSC05114-1.JPG

I also used the rubber runner pieces from the stock airbox and used them to lengthen the runners from the filter to the carbs. I like how solid the runners mount to the carbs and how the other end of the runner slides easily into the r0990 filter's openings. Everything clamps up quite nicely.


http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SZkfYXCP-aI/AAAAAAAACvs/-GY6AngaoHU/s640/DSC05116-1.JPG

^^sweet **free** runner idea^^

I did notice how loose the whole assy was...thought it was the norm:confused:

The r0990 was a bear to put on the carbs(and the clamps aren't a perfect fit)

Nice DIY

Well prior to pulling the airbox, the carbs were sandwiched between the engine cylinder and the frame mounted airbox. When the airbox was removed, that left everything hanging off the backside of the engine without the airbox to stabilize everything. That's the reason everything moves around with the 0990 filter. It would be great if someone could fab up a bracket, but in lieu of this happening anytime soon, 2 tie wraps seem to stabilize the carbs just fine. :)

I like the runners as they move the filter back a bit and also angles it down and to the side. I haven't ridden the bike to see if the additional short runners make a diff... I just hope they don't hurt. After reading Duck's experience with different length runners, I frankly don't know what to expect. I'm hoping the engineers at Kawasaki did the math for me and that putting the stock runner length back on will help get some low end back.

....yeah I just found the runner discussion...

If you've rejetted your bike, perhaps you wouldn't mind adding to our jetting database?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208

I am doing everything at once(not always the best idea) and have not fired it up since the rejet/airbox removal/kleen removal/slide drill/carb cap removal...still need new fuel tap/gas cap mod/tune carbs/sync carbs/new plugs/check valves... in a cold garage in the next month before I go to Florida:D

But I will definitely post results..............................someday:p

Yeah I've thought about making something to hold the opposite side of the carbs up, but never got around to it. I like the free runner extensions :p Have you gone for any rides yet?

not yet... will post when I do. :)

I plan on doing this mod but wanted to use individual filters as apposed to a dual flange. The flange inside diameter matches the one on the R-0990 so they should be OK right?

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=R-1090

dunno... but you need to make sure you have enough space between the carbs so that filter width will be able to fit side by side. why the desire to reinvent the wheel?

some other alternatives (http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_aftermarket_air_filters_fit_the_Ninja_250%3F).

I like the single filter option that Vex uses. Very cool mod. Did mine a while back and am still diggin it.

Kelly, some people like choosing their own route out of the mine field, instead of following someone else, who has already done it...successfully! :D

I like the single filter option that Vex uses. Very cool mod. Did mine a while back and am still diggin it.

cool... you mind adding your jetting specs to the jetting database? :)

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208

cool... you mind adding your jetting specs to the jetting database? :)

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208

I would if I remembered what the heck I put in there lol. Its been so long, I have no clue. Vex and I sent messages back and forth about it so its probably the same thing he has.

Kelly, some people like choosing their own route out of the mine field, instead of following someone else, who has already done it...successfully! :D

I have no problem with that. It's that type of spirit that leads to multiple solutions to a single problem. Unless you have access to the individual filters to try them on, you need to buy them to find out. Just trying to save him some headaches.

I am already intrigued Vex figured out that 0990 filter he used would fit to begin with. That boy's got some skills. :thumbup:

dunno... but you need to make sure you have enough space between the carbs so that filter width will be able to fit side by side. why the desire to reinvent the wheel?

some other alternatives (http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_aftermarket_air_filters_fit_the_Ninja_250%3F).

Was a general question, just wondering if having smaller lighter individual ones would change the loose carb fit from all the free space left over from removing the air box.

Hey kkim, Vex, and whoever else did this mod: feedback on the pod system? is it really a noticeable difference compared to the stock airbox? I guess what I'm asking is, is it worth the trouble? :D

yes, but you won't think so when you are removing that airbox!! :rant:

thanks kkim, looks like I got another mod to add to my list...and this one looks "fun"! :shocked:

plan for the whole weekend for this, especially if you're going to be rejetting, too. your bike will look like a bomb went off in it by the time you get that box out. :lol:

:whathesaid:

Keep a crate of beer on standby. :smile-drink4: Ask me how I know.:smash2:

lol... where is that thread of your agonizing, Jordan? good times, eh? :lol:

plan for the whole weekend for this, especially if you're going to be rejetting, too. your bike will look like a bomb went off in it by the time you get that box out. :lol:


Whole weekend? Gettin' old brah, only took me 8 hours including my first attempt at a rejet. :p

I'm not sure if it's the pod that helps or the fact that you can reject it. Either way it is worth the hassle. Makes everything sound alot better too. I get my bike mistaken for a Ducati all the time. Which either means it sounds good, or i live near some really ignorant people. I guess they both have the twin cylinder thing going for them...

Whole weekend? Gettin' old brah, only took me 8 hours including my first attempt at a rejet. :p


yeah, but I got mine right the first time around.:p

look who's talking about getting old, birthday girl. :lol:

lol... where is that thread of your agonizing, Jordan? good times, eh? :lol:

haha It was more about the jet kit, but the5th post (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10630) is about my agony with the air box removal. Man looking back on it feels weird...:o



CB it took me 4-5 hours to get the box out, but I waited a week to tackle the jets
because I wanted to read up and make sure I knew what I was doing.

yeah, I have already rejetted with a jet kit and I have the Yoshi full exhaust system on. I was getting little backfire snaps and pops in lower revs and on decelleration so I decided that I should probably remove the Kleen air system and plug the holes per kkim's DIY. :) then I was just delving a little deeper into the forums and saw this thread again and I was like "hmmm, should I do this while I'm at it?" so I just wanted some opinions on if it's worth it or not. thanks for those who have thrown in their :2cents:

Any one interested in doing this mod, Amazon has the filter available with free shipping. Unfortunately this free shipping does not apply to Hawaii as it is considered hazardous and must be shipped by 2day air or 1 day air.

http://www.amazon.com/K-R-0990-Universal-Rubber-Filter/dp/B00062YHYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1243023044&sr=8-2

Daniel

have you tried pricing the filter from auto parts stores on island?

have you tried pricing the filter from auto parts stores on island?

I called Napa. They can get it but would take about 3 weeks if I wanted free shipping. Didn't find out the price for the filter. They don't know the price of shipping if I wanted it sooner. I called a Kawasaki dealer, they couldn't find it but took my name and number to call me back...

Plan to give checkers a call and some other bike shops.
Posted via Mobile Device

try looking in the phone book and call an Auto Value parts store. That's where I bought mine.

I ended up ordering it from amazon with a bunch of other car maintenance stuff and paying the 2 day shipping.

Based on the local prices of everything I bought and assuming a local price of $40 for the filter it came out to $10 more.

It so happened that the mobile1 oil i bought for the car has a $10 rebate =). So it ended up being worth it to not have to call a bunch of local shops and go through all that hassle.

Daniel

Hehe well i dont have that problem, as my 250R is the uber FAST (RED) and a 2009! :)

Should I do this mod before getting a full exhaust or does it matter? I saw you guys mention to do this while rejetting, but with current mods in my sig, I won't plan to rejet until my full AP exhaust funds become available.

I haven't done a mod in a week and am getting bored :)

Should I do this mod before getting a full exhaust or does it matter? I saw you guys mention to do this while rejetting, but with current mods in my sig, I won't plan to rejet until my full AP exhaust funds become available.

I haven't done a mod in a week and am getting bored :)

if you delete the airbox, you definitely need to rejet.

if you delete the airbox, you definitely need to rejet.

i am gettin bored and need more mods to do... so thinking of pulling the airbox and attempting a rejet within next few weeks..

what would need to change if i have a stock exhaust and later installed a full areap or another exhaust?

i anticipate changing the shimming on the needles.. would i need to change jets as well?

which jet is recommended for stock exhaust, 2 shims on needle, and airbox-less? and snorkel-less

and wheres the cheapest place u guys know with the factory pro kit? or is dynojet just fine?

try looking in the jetting database and see if anyone has a setup close to what you are thinking of and use their setup as a guide. you'll need to fine tune as you go.

I will say, once you start rejetting you 'll have your fill of modding as it's a never ending job looking to the prefect combination as you experiment with different setups.

either jet kit would work.. they are both tools. You need to learn to use those tools effectively for max output.

my suggestion is to leave the bike stock for now and shim your needles... pull the snorkel when you shim.

when you have a full exhaust, then pull the airbox and install a jet kit at that time.

aw, but ive already shimmed and desnorkeled :( i want to do more! but dont exactly want to spend 500 on an areaP YET.. i will maybe for xmas but not now

if you yank the airbox, I don't now anyone who has done so that is still using the stock airbox. You would need to change the main jets. (costs about $5 each) I'd suggest using 110 Keihins to start and take plug readings to figure out if you need to go up or down from there.

that should keep you really busy. :D

if you buy a jet kit, be sure to get one made for no airbox.

you mean stock exhaust?

i do plan on getting the dynojet stage 2 kit, didnt know there were ones specifically for no airbox.. is the dynojet one ok?

yeah, sorry... stock exhaust.

I know factory pro has kits for no airbox (using stand alone pods or filter) applications. they come with bigger main jets.

ah so i finally found what you meant on the fp site, part #CRB-K13-3.0 is for 88-07 250s with no airbox

but then i saw http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/forum/f37/08-ninja-250-r-after-market-mods-52595/

which lists same part for 08s. are the jet kits compatible with 08/09s even though fp site says up to 07?

hella expensive on the fp site... do you guys know any other sites that stock the appropriate jet kit?

http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodk04.html

ok i feel dumb. i think fp needs to redesign their website though, i feel like it was done in microsoft frontpage of a high schooler.

thanks kelly!

take plug readings to figure out if you need to go up or down from there

Noob time for me. Plug readings are? The method for figuring out 'up, down or stay' that I've been told/seen is take the bike for a ride and try to decide if it's pulling harder or not mod-range. Is the 'plug reading' more accurate/easier?

plug reading to select the correct main is the most accurate. If done correctly, it gives you a snapshot of what temps are being produced in the combustion chamber.

too lean = white
just right = light tan
too rich= black/sooty

there's a lot more that can be told from reading your plug conditions, but for picking the right main jet this is basically what you need to know.


http://www.superstreetonline.com/techarticles/130_0703_reading_spark_plugs/photo_03.html

http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=332655

Ah ha. Thanks. That'll make things much easier for me when I pull the box and rejet in the upcoming weeks. Was dreading trying to remember 'is it pulling harder now or before?' for every jet in the set.

depending on what your intake/exhaust setup will finally be, you can check the jetting database for good starting places on how to initially set your jetting. after that, it's fine tuning for your location and particular bike.

you can start all over w/ plug checks, but why do that when people before you have done the work, which is sorta the reason for the database. :)

I mentioned plug checks for Hokie cause I have not seen a stock exhaust used with a pulled airbox configuration before and was giving him a best guess on a main to start out with.

Ahh so plug checks are more of a 'rough tune' while fine tuning is just judging how well the buke runs for you on a given setting? Or Plug checks work all the way thru to fine tuned (but I suspect the gradations would be a bit harder to differentiate). Haven't done fine tuning of much of anything before.

plug checks can be used to fine tune, but you really need to know how to read the plugs. For basic, ballpark main jet settings, what I listed on plug colors are close enough.

Plug readings are really useful in 2 stroke applications, where being off by just a little bit seems to make a life or death difference to an engine.

on 4 strokes, like our bikes, I see a lot more tolerance to bad jetting before the engine is destroyed. That's why I recommended using the jetting database as a start. You might be happy with those settings and you could live with it and be perfectly happy. :)

again, be mindful that jetting can vary, so no one setting is "right", but needs to be fine tuned to gain the maximum. I prefer my jetting be a bit on the rich side than lean.

For me, rejetting has produced a little bit more top end HP, but the biggest gain was in the power gained overall to flatten out the power curve throughout the entire rev range of the bike. While before the bike was anemic on the lower end, had a nice midrange pull and died off towards the top end, the rejetted bike now pulls evenly from low rpm to redline.

if you yank the airbox, I don't now anyone who has done so that is still using the stock exhaust. You would need to change the main jets. (costs about $5 each) I'd suggest using 110 Keihins to start and take plug readings to figure out if you need to go up or down from there.


Last weekend I removed my airbox and replaced it with some UNI pod filters (I like Vex's K&N filter the best and may order one some day but the main warehouse for RockyMountainATV.com is just a couple miles from my house and they had the UNI pods and Keihin main jets in stock so I went that route for now).

I have the stock exhaust still and I found the Keihin 100 main jet with 4 washers under the stock needles and the pilot screws turned 2.5 turns out worked pretty good for me. The plug color after partial and full throttle runs looks pretty good and it pulls noticeably harder than stock from idle to redline. It also feels a little smoother when transitioning from coasting to partial throttle acceleration. Getting the airbox out was a pain but when you start tuning the carbs it makes it worth every second of it to have all that open space in there! :thumbup: The stock exhaust sounds noticeably different without the airbox in there as well.

I am at 4700 feet above sea level and I may be a little closer to being lean than rich in a few spots at the moment so please take that into consideration when looking at these numbers. I think the 105 main would be better for me (I haven't had time to try it yet though) so Kelly's suggestion of a 110 would be a great place to start for anyone at a lower elevation. :) I hope to have my new exhaust on sometime in the next week and I will post my new settings after I get that installed.

In the OP I see Vex mentions needing/remembering late that the gear box needed a breather when pulling the box. Anyone happen to save the specs for the size of that tube (or other important measurements) so I can get a breather ahead of time? Likely gonna end up doing this in noche or another friend's garage, so the fewer trips I have to make to the auto parts store the better. Thanks!

well, at least the worst case is advanced about 2 mins away, or autozone at about 5 ;)

For reference, to connect to the end of the gearbox breather tube, it's 10mm inner diameter, 15mm outer. To connect directly to the gearbox nipple and bypass that looping tube, the OD is 22mm. I wound up just getting a double-male vacuum tube connector to bridge between the 10mm and my 12mm inner diameter cheapie breather.

Now that the air filter is exposed, wouldn't this be dangerous when it gets wet (i.e. rain) and lead to damage to the bike?

^^ Hydrolock... that's the word I was looking for.

for the bike to hydrolock, you would need the water level at the height of the air filter which would put it about up to the seat. if you're in that deep water, you've got other problems besides worrying about your bike being hydrolocked. :)

for the bike to hydrolock, you would need the water level at the height of the air filter which would put it about up to the seat. if you're in that deep water, you've got other problems besides worrying about your bike being hydrolocked. :)

Pardon my n00biness, but wouldn't getting the filter wet from rain (or washing the bike) do something similar?

hydrolock occurs when the cylinders fill up with water and the pistons can't compress the liquid filled cylinders... usually when the engine is running.

water on your filter from rain or washing is not going to do that. in fact, some people use a water spray/fogging to clean the carbon out of their engines. I wouldn't do that, but not because of any concern of hydrolocking the engine.

hydrolock occurs when the cylinders fill up with water and the pistons can't compress the liquid filled cylinders... usually when the engine is running.

water on your filter from rain or washing is not going to do that. in fact, some people use a water spray/fogging to clean the carbon out of their engines. I wouldn't do that, but not because of any concern of hydrolocking the engine.

Cool. :thumbup: Thanks for the explanation.

I live in a sandy dessert area- sand every where-
Could i do this ?

how often do you change it? seems like a pita to change...

how often do you have to change what? :confused:

Assuming you're talking about replacing the air filter pod once the airbox is gone, IIRC, the K&N filters are guaranteed for either 100,000 or 1,000,000 miles, provided you clean them out every so often (think it's 50,000 miles). I'll check the product stuff when I get home if you'd like. Essentially you shouldn't need to change it.

Since I imagine the air filter was designed to remove the exact particulate that you've got a lot of, amongst others, I don't see what would be an issue. I imagine it'd be fine in sandy environments provided you made sure the seals to the carb were tight (keep from sucking unfiltered air in) and kept an eye on how clogged it gets (which is easy since you can see it even with the black leg protector plates on the bike). However I'm neither an expert nor a California resident.

That said, very easy to remove/change at all if you decide to replace or clean it. Especially when you compare how much of a hassle it is to get that airbox out... :eek:

Watch offshore powerboat racing, those things suck in some h20

I live in a sandy dessert area- sand every where-
Could i do this ?

how often do you change it? seems like a pita to change...

I think you just "hose them off" with water and then blow dry with an air compressor. They also have K&N air filter recharge kits, but not sure if it works with that filter or not.

Some dirt bikes use an unrestrictive foam element over their air intake filter. I'd imagine you could find one at a dirt shop if it's really bad.

I do notice my bike gets pretty dusty very quick out here :rolleyes:
then again I've been riding it in dirt too. haha

Has anyone, aside from me, thought of cutting the airbox with a dremel to have the stability of the framework and use the K&N single pod connected much the way KKim has his?

Sixer, there are "Outerwears" made for sandy/desert off road vehicles that go over the K&N filter to help filter even more and makes for an easy pull off and clean element to give your K&N more life. One of the items I am looking for here in the High Desert when I get down to the point I make this mod. rejet and add an exhaust.

Here's a link to the water repellent Outerwears prefilter for the K&N R-0990 filter.
http://www.outerwears.net/proddetail.asp?prod=4128


They also have a regular one that is not water repellent.
http://www.outerwears.net/proddetail.asp?prod=756

I also used the rubber runner pieces from the stock airbox and used them to lengthen the runners from the filter to the carbs.


Anyone measure the length of the runners that are inside the air filter once one has done this? Curious if it's a close fit to the back wall of the K&N (potentially restricting airflow) or ir if there's more clearance than I think. I'm set up this way, but it's about 13F outside now and I don't have a garage, so it's a little cold to strip the bike down to satisfy curiosity.

Ok so it begins:
Ohh shiny
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=236


what were to happen if i just plugged that hose/hole up? i cant get a small small air filter for this hose.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/P1040832_resize.jpg

in the meantime i just improvised and created a filter with quick dry foam and some fabric...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/airboxdelete2.gif

here is another lil .gif i just made up from todays K&N installation~

took quite a while to get it all down and back together, lol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/airboxdelete.gif
thats a link to a higher res .gif

W.

You'll need something, as that's the crank case breather.

Yes, you can't block off that hole. You can blow your crankcase seals if it's not allowed to breathe. I use a cheap gasoline filter that fits the hose.

okay, all clear, i wont block the crank breather! ill see if i can find a fuel filter to do the job. my temporary sponge and cloth filter looks a little out of place in my bike, ha ha

so this morning i finally had the chance to ride the bike, i wasn't able to push her to red line cos it was rush hour, and the roads were chockablock. however i noticed an unfamiliar sound when im in the lower Rev range. like when i start accelerating from a slow speed (10~15mph) in 2nd gear, i get a really throaty gurgling sound from like 3k~6k rpm, then once im into the mid/high rpm range it goes away.

the sound is definitely coming in from the carbs (right under the seat). however i don't hear this when i am just revving the bike when its parked, so its something that only happens when there is a force on the back wheel.

---------------------------------

i have noticed another small issue when installing the K&N filter, and its that its resting on the metal/rubber ring that used to hold one corner of the OEM filter (where Kelly put the pipe through to the right of the filter in his picture)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SZkfYXCP-aI/AAAAAAAACvs/-GY6AngaoHU/s640/DSC05116-1.JPG

i am wondering if i should do the same mod as kelly with extending the runner pieces from the stock filter? Kelly, did you end up keeping that set up with the extended pipe? or did you plug the filter in directly to the carbs again?

thanks in advance :thumbup:

peace out~

I think the sucking sound is your carbs drawing in much more air than they used to. Give it a LOT of throttle briefly while standing still (like from closed/idle to half or 3/4 open) and I think you'll hear the same sound you're describing. If that's it, it's the way your bike breathes now. I'll try to get a recording of mine in the next day or so for comparison.

For what it's worth, I left my stock runners on, but ran a big zip tie around the filter between the runners & attached it to the zip tie holding up the carb. But whether you use the runners or not MAKE SURE YOU TIGHTEN YOUR CLAMPS! I didn't tighten mine enough the first time around and the carb end of one runner fell off; sucked in road crud for an unknown period. Got to spend about a week & a half cleaning dust & gravel out of my carbs & engine because of that.

I still have the extenders from the stock airbox installed as in that picture. bike runs fine. :)

I still have the extenders from the stock airbox installed as in that picture. bike runs fine. :)

alright! im gonna do that too then :rolleyes:

besides the filter being in contact with the metal ring, its also touching on the fuel tank tap, i don't like the idea of these parts all chafing together, im sure it will damage the metal wire mesh of the K&N filter in a very short time... :(

so, i just went on another ride, and the gurgling sound that i was talking about it most audible between 5k and 6k rpm, when im opening the throttle.

i can hear a similar sound when i WOT while the bike is parked, but the sound only lasts for a split second (coming out of the lower into the mid RPM as well), but its there!

i guess im taking my bike apart again when i get home! yippie, lol...

the bike pulls decently all the way up to redline, but i am not sure if its better or worse than before i replaced the air filter and re-jetted... i think im gonna pass by the dyno place next week end and have them run it again to compare it with the old dyno run. i mean i would expect an increase, be a little dissapointed if it didnt change, and definitely be annoyed if the dyno got worse, ha ha... well it just means ill have to figure out what needs fine tuning, get the right jets, and tune her some more.

cheers all :)

TJ,

I also used the rubber runner pieces from the stock airbox and used them to lengthen the runners from the filter to the carbs. I like how solid the runners mount to the carbs and how the other end of the runner slides easily into the r0990 filter's openings. Everything clamps up quite nicely.


http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SZkfYXCP-aI/AAAAAAAACvs/-GY6AngaoHU/s640/DSC05116-1.JPG

i just took the stock runners out, and am not sure how you fixed them to the K&N's... did you use a pipe inbetween? as per your coment and image, it looks like yuo just slid the stock piece into the K&N filter. but im not sure i can do that, cos there are like 4 ribs on the outside of the stock runners, which would cause air to slip by no?

or did you do some mild operations to them to remove these ribs?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/DSC05116-1.jpg
there they are circled in red~

looking forward to your reply master! :p

I didn't modify the runners at all. I can't remember the ribs, but I do use grease at all the joints for a better seal to insure against leaks.

I didn't modify the runners at all. I can't remember the ribs, but I do use grease at all the joints for a better seal to insure against leaks.

ah... grease, i need to get me a tub of that stuff, keep needing it, and then i keep forgetting to buy it. i could have sworn that i bought some last year, but ist gone missing from the house :(

ive just slid the sucker in, and the two rubber surfaces seem to adjust to the shape, and i cant hear any sounds indicating that its leaking.

ive noticed that you actually stuck the rubber runners all the way in, which would give an even better seal, but your filter is a bigger version than mine, and if i would have stuck it that deep the mouth of the runners would have been sitting on the inside wall of the filter, and im sure it would have restricted the air flow.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/P1040902.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/P1040901.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/P1040905.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/P1040903.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/P1040904.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/P1040907.jpg

i decided to add another 2 cable ties to the extension pipes, cos im afraid that gravity might get the best of me and pull the filter off the carbs.

initially had a tricky time to make it all stay together after i tightened it all up. so i feel better with the added safety ties :rolleyes:

thanks for the greasy tip :thumbup:

what model of K&N is that and why didn't you just order a r-0990?

what model of K&N is that and why didn't you just order a r-0990?

RC - 2370

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/P1040755res.jpg

got this one cos this is whats available here. the only options to choose from was the plastic, or metal cap cover, and the metal one looks neat, so i went with that.

im glad that i extended the runners cause the wire mesh was already starting to wear down after just one day.

now that ive had a couple rides on the bike, i am noticing quite a difference, the bike pulls a lot harder once its in the upper rev range. much more than it used to~!

im also getting used to the raspy sound from the new filter... although i noticed that now its REALLY hard to talk over the sound of the exhaust/carbs/wind when im riding with my gf... d-oh!

any reason why i should have gone with the r-0990? they look bigger, so i assume they have an even bigger air flow? :eek:
i probably would have gone with the r-0990 if i had the choice; bigger is better right? :rolleyes:

really curious to see the dyno result!

I mention the 0990 filter only because others have used it and it seems to work w/o surprises you find, like with your filter.

Yes, bigger is better. :p

I'm curious to see your dyno numbers, too. If possible, try runs w/ one size larger and one size smaller mains than what's presently in the bike.

GL
:thumbup:

I'm curious to see your dyno numbers, too. If possible, try runs w/ one size larger and one size smaller mains than what's presently in the bike.
:thumbup:

i would have to buy the other mains, which is another umm... 25 bucks... i guess i could do that. isn't an insane amount to invest into fine tuning the bike. i would be a little annoyed to find that the current set up is just right tho, ha ha.

gonna order the other mains then :thumbup:

If you read on how to tune the mains, you keep changing them out till you find the set that gives you the most HP. That you're using a dyno takes out the "butt dyno" so you will at least have proof of what mains give you the most power.

Don't do it on my account if money is an issue, but if a dyno were available to me, you can be assured that's how I would tune for max HP. :)

Don't do it on my account if money is an issue, but if a dyno were available to me, you can be assured that's how I would tune for max HP. :)

nah, $25 isnt a big deal, and one dyno run is like $5 here, might end up spending $15~25 for them to run the bike a couple times with the various main jets and needle position to fine tune it. so a total of around $50 is bearable and worth it if i am able to perfect the jetting on the bike.

my greatest fear is for them to thread a screw or something stupid like that while opening and closing the carbs like 5 times :(

with the air box delete, its a lot more spacious to get to the carbs tho, so im quite happy about that.

id be so tempted to get the BRT tis while im there as well, lol
it would be almost the ultimate performance you can get out of the ninjette without rebuilding the entire engine :rolleyes:

So I just finished pulling my air box. As I'm putting the mud flap back on, I notice that theres a small gap between the frame and the mud flap on the left side of the bike. Did I miss a washer or something or is this normal?

Another question. Where exactly does the brake light wire get threaded into the mud flap? I dug up some pictures and it seems its supposed to hang off a small hook below the right passenger foot peg but where does it go from there? I currently have it sorta pinched between the mud flap and the frame...

Check out the original DIY by Vex. Look at "Step #7" The pic shows the brake wiring running up the side of the flap and how it is secured with the "bendable" metal fastener. It comes back in near the brake assembly. I guess the gap you speak of could be where this wiring is running. Depends on which side of the bike you mean when you say "left"

Here's a pic I found on another thread that will show how it comes back to the brake light assembly.

hey Vex, GREAT DIY..I have a question..whats the diameter/size of the breather you used?
Thanks in advance..

by the way, if you remove the brake reserve, and the back wheel, i am almost certain that the air box can be removed completely through the back end. without having to crack it open.

i was a hairline off giving up and taking the back wheel off to try it when i was trying to take the air box out, but then gave it one last shot and managed to bend that metal mesh and slide the box apart while in that confined space.

if i had to do it again i would remove the back wheel and try that approach from the start, lol. has anyone tried it this way?

Questions:

1.0) Can the air box be removed w/o damaging or bending the metal mesh inside?
1.5) Is it difficult to get the air box back IN w/o damaging the metal mesh?

2.0) I see a few different methods used with and w/o the runners. Is there a GENERAL consensus on this (predictable performance, most often used method)?

Questions:

1.0) Can the air box be removed w/o damaging or bending the metal mesh inside?
1.5) Is it difficult to get the air box back IN w/o damaging the metal mesh?

2.0) I see a few different methods used with and w/o the runners. Is there a GENERAL consensus on this (predictable performance, most often used method)?

i think i almost answered question 1 above. i have yet to see someone posting a DIY without cracking the air filter in two and bending the metal mesh. try removing the back wheel and the rear brake reservoir and pulling it out the back. you will need to remove the carburetor too, so you can rotate the air box around to find the best angle of attack :p

i almost took the back wheel off cos i was getting so frustrated with the air box and the metal mesh inside, lol... i was hoping to get the metal mesh out without bending it, but there was no way around it.

if you can get the air box out through the back tire space, then it should be easy to put it back in. IF that doesnt work, then i wouldnt think that you can get he airbox back in without warping the metal mesh again... meaning that its gonna be a PITA to get it reassembled in that small space with the metal mesh. that would also mean that they install the air filter BEFORE they install the engine block... lol! go figure :D

i believe that if you dont use the original air filter runner, the K&N filter will get damaged on a piece of metal that used to hold the original air-filter-box. that piece sticking out of the body tubing to the right of the two red circles that i squiggled in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/DSC05116-1.jpg

this was a pic i took after i added the runner. i only had the filter in for one day without the runners and i noticed that the metal ring was denting the filter mesh. you can see the dent forming on the right side of the filter.

a friend of mine who added the K&N filter but didnt bother adding the runner has a hole going right through the mesh now! basically a gaping hole in the air filter :o

hope that helps, hehe

Anyone doing this mod- Im in the middle of it now =/ I found its easier to just take the rear wheel off and you can slid the whole air box out with out taking all thoses 8-10 screws out. Saves a few min. on the job.

Anyone doing this mod- Im in the middle of it now =/ I found its easier to just take the rear wheel off and you can slid the whole air box out with out taking all thoses 8-10 screws out. Saves a few min. on the job.

ah!! i thought that it would work, but i was being stubborn and in a way i was half way into cracking the box in two when i noticed that it might be possible to get it out the back once you take the wheel out. but at that point i just bent the mesh and yanked it out!

good to know for all the people that still want to do this mod, and great to know in case we need to put the box back in! :)

thanks for going where no one has gone before! :rolleyes:

Haha, don't thank me, it was my wife who thought it!!:eek:

I need help!! Lol 1st, do you have to put new jets in with this mod? Shimming just is'nt enuff? 2nd, that vac hose that was on top of the airbox, what do you do wit it? Pic below to show what one.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o99/99_neon/int.jpg

I did this and the bike runs like poo when you give it a little throttle. =(

main jets need to be changed to larger 112.5 or 110 Keihin sized jets.


a better pic of the hose would help. :)

I got the hose thing figured out. lol Where can I buy these jets at? Im having a hard time finding just jets.

http://www.jetsrus.com/

http://www.jetsrus.com/

Your my ninjette hero :D. Will just replacing the jets be fine? Will a 200 work?! lol JK 110 or a 112? What would you recomend?

take your time to peruse the jetting database. find someone who has a similar setup as you and use their info as a base to start your jetting from. there is no one right answer as every bike and location requires different settings to make it run well/best.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208

True, I will look that over! Thanks again!

a friend of mine who added the K&N filter but didnt bother adding the runner has a hole going right through the mesh now! basically a gaping hole in the air filter :o

hope that helps, hehe

really?!
I just installed R 0990 on my bike and yes, I dented the filter at the same place when I struggling to install the filter.
but after installed, there is actually enough room between the filter and the metal ring for the carb and the filter to move around.

really?!
I just installed R 0990 on my bike and yes, I dented the filter at the same place when I struggling to install the filter.
but after installed, there is actually enough room between the filter and the metal ring for the carb and the filter to move around.

ah, then maybe the 0990s dont have the clearance issue that i had with mine. i have a different model K&N filter:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/camera%20mount%20250r/P1040753res.jpg

this 2 are commonly used K&N filters for 250r here

RC-2370
Product Style: Dual Flange Oval Universal Air Filter
Flange Center to Center: 2.625 in (67 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 2 in (51 mm)
Flange Length: 0.625 in (16 mm)
Flange Type: Offset
Height: 2 in (51 mm)
Outside Length: 6.25 in (159 mm)
Outside Width: 4 in (102 mm)
Top Style: Metal
Top Material/Finish: Chrome
Filter Material: Cotton Gauze
Base Outside Length: 6.25 in (159 mm)
Base Outside Width: 4 in (102 mm)
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 0.3 oz (9 ml)
Flange Offset: 0.25 in (6 mm)
Footnote 1: Offset is vertical
Top Outside Length: 6.25 in (159 mm)
Top Outside Width: 4 in (102 mm)
Weight: 1 lb (0.5 kg)

R-0990
Product Style: Dual Flange Oval Universal Air Filter
Flange Center to Center: 2.625 in (67 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 1.875 in (48 mm)
Flange Length: 0.625 in (16 mm)
Flange Type: Offset
Height: 3 in (76 mm)
Outside Length: 6.125 in (156 mm)
Outside Width: 3.875 in (98 mm)
Top Style: Rubber
Top Material/Finish: None
Filter Material: Cotton Gauze
Base Outside Length: 6.125 in (156 mm)
Base Outside Width: 3.875 in (98 mm)
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 0.57 oz (17 ml)
Flange Offset: 0.375 in (10 mm)
Footnote 1: Offset is horizontal
Top Outside Length: 6.125 in (156 mm)
Top Outside Width: 3.875 in (98 mm)
Weight: 1 lb (0.5 kg)

as you can see that RC 2370 is wider than R 0990. thats why the R 0990 has more clearance
I will post a picture when I got the chance
and the flange diameter for R 0990 is tighter than RC 2370. thats why R 0990 is tougher to install

Is there a different K&N filter version of the 0990 that has filter, as opposed to a plastic cap, at the top/end of the filter? I know their car filters come in a variety of options, with a velocity stack on the end, metal or plastic cap, or just more filter material.

I got the hose thing figured out. lol Where can I buy these jets at? Im having a hard time finding just jets.

Don't know if its too late for you Scott, but I too needed to purchase main jets (my ninjette also runs like "poo" after removing the airbox)

i purchased from these guys, cuts the price in half i believe

http://www.psep.biz/index.htm

Don't know if its too late for you Scott, but I too needed to purchase main jets (my ninjette also runs like "poo" after removing the airbox)

i purchased from these guys, cuts the price in half i believe

http://www.psep.biz/index.htm

Yeah I bought some yesterday though jetsrus.com. How much did they charge you? I paided 19$ shipped.

Yeah I bought some yesterday though jetsrus.com. How much did they charge you? I paided 19$ shipped.

I paid 23.75 shipped for 2 sets of main jets..the Keihen 110's and 112's

I paid 23.75 shipped for 2 sets of main jets..the Keihen 110's and 112's

Wow, thats not a bad deal! I only got a set of 110's :( Thats good info for anyone who needs to buy new jets for this mod. :D

be aware there is a price difference (and quality difference) between genuine Keihin jets and copies made by other companies that produce jets... roughly half the price of the genuine pieces.

Kkim, you make a good point. You sometimes get, "what you pay for"

be aware there is a price difference (and quality difference) between genuine Keihin jets and copies made by other companies that produce jets... roughly half the price of the genuine pieces.

thats what I was worried about it, when something seems to good to be true..it probably is xP
I will see how these do..if theyre not worth it, I will DEFINITELY be purchasing genuine brand..
make sure you tell me how yours turn out Scott
i will be looking forward to your feedback:thumbup:

In my experience working on other Keihin carbs, I've found the brass to be of a different hardness and have broken jets (twisted off at the base) while installing them. When I checked, they were not genuine Keihin jets but aftermarket jets I had bought from the local motorcycle shops around here.

Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the aftermarket jets mar or misshape easier than the genuine Keihin jets I also had in my jet case that I've built up over the years.

With finding that, I have to wonder of the quality control of the holes they drill for the jets. Are they really the correct size or might they be off from what they should be?

In any case, I now purchase only Keihin jets when I have a choice.

Keep in mind, the jets I talk about have been installed and removed numerous times, so if you work on your jetting only a few times, you may be okay w/ aftermarket jets. Just be really careful when removing and installing them. I now make sure I always use the proper sized box wrenches and screwdrivers when rejetting my carbs. :)

thats what I was worried about it, when something seems to good to be true..it probably is xP
I will see how these do..if theyre not worth it, I will DEFINITELY be purchasing genuine brand..
make sure you tell me how yours turn out Scott
i will be looking forward to your feedback:thumbup:

Will do, they said 5-7 days to get to me. So I hope to be up and running by next weekend. So I post up feed back asap!!

What do I do now with no bike to ride????:( O well, good time to do other stuff to it I guess. :thumbup:

So Scotty, how's your ninjette running? I had received my jets a while ago but I can't install them because for some reason they are SUPER long! >_< haha, after installing the main jet in the carburetor, i was unable to place the cap back onto the carbs to seal the bottom portion of the carbs shut -.-

Are the jets you ordered working good? Is your ninjette running smoothly now?

Look forward for your reply :D

So Scotty, how's your ninjette running? I had received my jets a while ago but I can't install them because for some reason they are SUPER long! >_< haha, after installing the main jet in the carburetor, i was unable to place the cap back onto the carbs to seal the bottom portion of the carbs shut -.-

Are the jets you ordered working good? Is your ninjette running smoothly now?

Look forward for your reply :D

O man, i'm sorry. I forgot to give feed back! My life is crazy rite now. Lol

But yes! I did get my main jets in. I ordered two 110's. Installing them was a snap. Just held the outside part of the jet with a 8mm(no idea what its called) and I unscrewd the jet itself with a screw driver. Bike runs great with them.
Did you install the rite jet in the rite location? Rite jet? Here is a pic of the main jet.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o99/99_neon/poi.jpg

Hmm yea, looks good, yea i installed the jet in the right spot, but the reason why i couldn't screw the bottom cap back on was because the jets i ordered were SUPER long, so they stuck outward ridiculously..so when it came time to screw the cap back on the main jet kept the cap from closing..there was like 1/3 gap between the carbs and the cap o_0 so I just put everything back and am now just gonna order from the website recommended by Kkim..
a few questions..did your bike go out of sync? did you re-sync it?
and do you have an aftermarket f/s or s/o exhaust?

Hmm yea, looks good, yea i installed the jet in the right spot, but the reason why i couldn't screw the bottom cap back on was because the jets i ordered were SUPER long, so they stuck outward ridiculously..so when it came time to screw the cap back on the main jet kept the cap from closing..there was like 1/3 gap between the carbs and the cap o_0 so I just put everything back and am now just gonna order from the website recommended by Kkim..
a few questions..did your bike go out of sync? did you re-sync it?
and do you have an aftermarket f/s or s/o exhaust?

I have a full aftermarket exhaust. I did'nt sync the carbs, mainly because I was lazy. lol. I just backed out the mixture screws 2.5 out. The bike runs great. Starts up perfect, warms up fast, no "dead" spots in the rpm range. Also, my carbs are shimmed with 3 washers.

Jets are us is a good website. it only took 3 days for the jet to come in. Can you retrun your jets and get you money back? Did they just send you the wrong ones for a differnt bike?

oh alright sounds good, yea I have no idea what went wrong with the ones i ordered, did manage to get my money back anyways xP so no problem there..
i think imma go ahead and order some 110's from jets r us..
Idk if what they gave me was for a different bike or even a different vehicle..but i got my refund so I'm happy and willing to give it another try, haha
hey so i was looking at your ninjette (through your pics) and noticed you have that tube hanging around, you just leaving it hanging around?
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b387/lpsk8er_08/picture.jpg
I didn't know what to do with it in the beginning..its fine if you just leave it open like that?

That is part of the Kleen Air System. That was one of the things I took out during the filrer install mess. I would recomend you to take it out also if you have a full exhaust. Here is a link to the removal of it. http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9948
Did you order the jets yet??

Just to note, that line connected to the top of the OEM airbox just for an idea of where it went to if you did'nt already.

I haven't had the time to..I have to work in a bit anyway xP I probably will some time this weekend..its raining over here so I don't need to change it right away..haha, just sitting in my garage, and oh see well thats why I've decided to keep my kleen air system on, because I still have the stock exhaust on..no aftermarkets parts on my exhaust yet..>_<

Got cha, yeah, i'd leave it hanging their out of the way. Atleast that is what I did for a day. You can always take it off even though you have the stock exhaust on, but I think someone said that COULD mess up the cat on the exhaust.?. I feel you on the rain too. It's raining here also. =(

I am thinking about doing this for my bike, but what is the runner? Is it the breather? Or is it something else, after looking at so many pictures for so long I just end up getting confused. And I apologize because I'm not reading everyones responses word for word.

the runner is the rubber tube that is fixed to the original air filter which takes the air to the carbs, you can take it off (kinda like the snorkel) and you use that to extend the K&N filter away from the carb. in my case i needed it cos the filter was rubbing on a metal stub of the bike frame, but i think if you use the 0990 type filter it doesn't have that problem, and you can fix the filter directly to the carbs.

Just to update..I ordered my main jets 110 from jets r us yesterday...
Can't wait for them to come!! XP

Just to update..I ordered my main jets 110 from jets r us yesterday...
Can't wait for them to come!! XP

Good! Keep us posted on how it turns out!

What are my options for different breathers I can get that will fit directly on?

Just to update..I ordered my main jets 110 from jets r us yesterday...
Can't wait for them to come!! XP

So... Did you install them? They fit rite?

So... Did you install them? They fit rite?

Oh my gosh!!! I totally forgot to update!!! I had gotten them, installed..and now my ninjette runs smoothly =]

VERY good all in all =D

perfect fit and i got my refund, so all is well..
I'm actually working on a DIY for a fender eliminator that I haven't found up yet..so lets see how my first DIY goes..=]

I installed my filter the other day.

Note 1: You can remove the airbox from the top if you destroy it :P .

Note 2: You will have about 5HP without jetting the bike if you install a pod filter.

I connected mine directly to the carb. I didn't realize until after the pic that I had bent some of the fins wrestling it onto the carb, but Ive just about straitened them out. I secured with zip ties around each runner, to the frame on their respective sides, and it seemed to help a lot with the vibration:

I secured with zip ties around each runner, to the frame on their respective sides, and it seemed to help a lot with the vibration:

make sure you don't tighten them too much, since the carbs do need some free movement. the engine vibrates, and i think that if its tightened too much to the frame, it doesn't let the carbs vibrate along with the engine as well.

at least that's what I've noticed, and also been told.

cheers~

How easy is is to clean these filters compared to the flat K&N slide in ones that require their special K&N spray on cleaner. Can they be washed down with Dawn detergent and dried overnight like the stock foam ones? If not, is there an alternative to the proprietery K&N spray on? What about oiling? Can they be oiled with regular motor oil?

What size inner diameter do I need for the breather please if anyone can let me know I want to have all the parts on hand for when I remove the airbox.

What size inner diameter do I need for the breather please if anyone can let me know I want to have all the parts on hand for when I remove the airbox.


Looking for that answer as well...

What size inner diameter do I need for the breather please if anyone can let me know I want to have all the parts on hand for when I remove the airbox.

Looking for that answer as well...

The breather for the crankcase? I believe it is 5/8". I'm pretty sure mine was 1/2" and I still had to fight it a bit to get it on.

What size inner diameter do I need for the breather please if anyone can let me know I want to have all the parts on hand for when I remove the airbox.

Looking for that answer as well...

The breather for the crankcase? I believe it is 5/8". I'm pretty sure mine was 1/2" and I still had to fight it a bit to get it on.

I remember asking myself, then the forum the same question when I pulled my airbox a while back. It's post 56 in this thread:

In the OP I see Vex mentions needing/remembering late that the gear box needed a breather when pulling the box. Anyone happen to save the specs for the size of that tube (or other important measurements) so I can get a breather ahead of time? Likely gonna end up doing this in noche or another friend's garage, so the fewer trips I have to make to the auto parts store the better. Thanks!

Then I went out and measured it, post 58, this thread.

For reference, to connect to the end of the gearbox breather tube, it's 10mm inner diameter, 15mm outer. To connect directly to the gearbox nipple and bypass that looping tube, the OD is 22mm. I wound up just getting a double-male vacuum tube connector to bridge between the 10mm and my 12mm inner diameter cheapie breather.

Forgot I'd done that though, so went out in the rain a few minutes ago and measured it again:

There's a nipple coming off the top of the crankcase. The outer diameter on this is 16mm, thus you'll need that as the inner if you want to attach a breather directly to the top.

However, there's a tapered, bent hose that comes off the top of the crankcase to attach to the bottom of the airbox. Many people, myself included, simply attached a filter on the end of this hose. The inner diameter of the small end of the hose is 9-10mm, outer is about 15mm. The end that joins to the crankcase is 16-17mm on the inside, 22mm outside.

I'd be happy to take a picture of my setup if you want it, but it looks identical to the OP's in his second post, under the caption "ooh shiny"

Thanks for the replies 5/8 breather fit perfect the exact part i used was uni filter up-104
Posted via Mobile Device

How easy is is to clean these filters compared to the flat K&N slide in ones that require their special K&N spray on cleaner. Can they be washed down with Dawn detergent and dried overnight like the stock foam ones? If not, is there an alternative to the proprietery K&N spray on? What about oiling? Can they be oiled with regular motor oil?

All K&N filters use the same filter media; they all require the same cleaning and oiling. The detergent *should* work, but not as quickly and easily as the purpose made cleaner. I have heard of people using motor oil, but I wouldn't.

I use No Toil oil and cleaner. K&N oil is petroleum based, so any time you get reversion from the carbs (don't know if our bikes do) it will wash out. No Toil has a base that is partially derived from unicorn smiles, and absolutely will not come out without using their proprietary cleaner. That is also the only downside of No Toil that I've found- it is impossible to get off of anything it comes in contact with unless you use their cleaner. Fingers, paint, frames, polished surfaces, plastic, rubber- it just sticks. A bottle of cleaner (powder) would last well over 1,000,000 miles. A can of oil (aerosol) should last 100,000 miles. I find that the $30 for a top of the line product that will last the life of the bike... well worth it.
http://www.coastfab.com/php/proddetail.php?prod=1187
http://www.coastfab.com/php/proddetail.php?prod=1188

edit: K&N recharge kits work great, and are readily available in any parts store- but I don't mind plugging a product that I feel is better

VEX, neat idea of removing the air box. I am currently working on a EFI conversion for my 250r, and since the EFI will take care of the proper A/F ratio i believe increasing the air flow with this pods will end up in a increased HP without having to worry about getting the jetting right. I will be taking the bike apart to remove the carbs and to install the EFI kit, so I was thinking that i might as well remove the Air Box while I'm there. But I have few questions, does anyone had any problems with the pods, getting dirty fast (or water ingress) since there is no box? how does this mod compares to removing the snorkel only, have anyone compare both intake mods?

my pods stay pretty clean. no problems with water, either. with the side panels in place, it seems to form a nice shielded area under the seat with the airbox gone.

have someone tried if the filter K&N will work RC-4350?

Part R-0990 Product Specifications
Product Style: Dual Flange Oval Universal Air Filter
Flange Center to Center: 2.625 in (67 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 1.875 in (48 mm)
Flange Length: 0.625 in (16 mm)
Flange Type: Offset
Height: 3 in (76 mm)
Outside Length: 6.125 in (156 mm)
Outside Width: 3.875 in (98 mm)
Top Style: Rubber
Top Material/Finish: None
Filter Material: Cotton Gauze
Flanges: 2
Base Outside Length: 6.125 in (156 mm)
Base Outside Width: 3.875 in (98 mm)
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 0.57 oz (17 ml)
Flange Offset: 0.375 in (10 mm)
Footnote 1: Offset Is Horizontal
Top Outside Length: 6.125 in (156 mm)
Top Outside Width: 3.875 in (98 mm)
Weight: 1 lb (0.5 kg)
Product Box Length: 4.63 in (117 mm)
Product Box Width: 4.63 in (117 mm)
Product Box Height: 7.25 in (184 mm)

Part RC-4350 Product Specifications
Product Style: Dual Flange Oval Universal Air Filter
Flange Center to Center: 2.625 in (67 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 2 in (51 mm)
Flange Length: 0.625 in (16 mm)
Flange Type: Offset
Height: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Outside Length: 6.25 in (159 mm)
Outside Width: 4 in (102 mm)
Top Style: Metal
Top Material/Finish: Chrome
Filter Material: Cotton Gauze
Flanges: 2
Base Outside Length: 6.25 in (159 mm)
Base Outside Width: 4 in (102 mm)
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 0.3 oz (9 ml)
Flange Offset: 0.25 in (6 mm)
Footnote 1: Offset Is Vertical
Top Outside Length: 6.25 in (159 mm)
Top Outside Width: 4 in (102 mm)
Weight: 1.2 lb (0.5 kg)
Product Box Length: 4.63 in (117 mm)
Product Box Width: 4.63 in (117 mm)
Product Box Height: 7.25 in (184 mm)

I **** you not there's 8 or so screws all around the air box attaching this guy in.

Indeed. The screw on the bottom and closest to the tail-end of the bike made last night hell. I ended up taking a jigsaw to it and cutting the screw out. I have no idea how anyone got to it, no matter how much I twisted or yanked that airbox, that screw was unscrewable O.o

But good diy, im new to bikes and I would have known the airbox from the carbs lol this is the first thing ive ever worked on with carbs too

removing the rear wheel and the rear brake reserve allows you to remove the stock air box with much much more ease!

they did have to get it in there in the 1st place. although they might have done that before mounting the engine, but its also possible that they do it from the rear before the wheel, fender, etc were all in place.

i was at the verge of removing the wheel when i finally managed to take the two halves apart to get the darn thing out! but managed the hard way, lol

if i had to do it again, i would definitely try taking it out from the back, hehe

removing the rear wheel and the rear brake reserve allows you to remove the stock air box with much much more ease!

they did have to get it in there in the 1st place. although they might have done that before mounting the engine, but its also possible that they do it from the rear before the wheel, fender, etc were all in place.

i was at the verge of removing the wheel when i finally managed to take the two halves apart to get the darn thing out! but managed the hard way, lol

if i had to do it again, i would definitely try taking it out from the back, hehe


I think they built the bike around the airbox :D

when i removed my box it wasn't too bad. i just followed vex's diy guide. triple checked to make sure that all the screws in the box were removed. it helps to have a JIS screw driver. i managed to separate the box into 2, then needed to dislodge the metal screen inside the airbox. once that was done the box completely separated in two and was able to remove each out thru the top separately. the factory manual says you should remove the rear wheel and then pull the box out thru the back.

Is it illegal to remove the air box? I'm not sure if that's what were talking about, but I was reading my manual yesterday and came across something on page 73 that said its illegal to tamper with the emissions system including removing the air box. Can someone clarify for me? I'm just a little confused and this maybe not even be relevant but please don't hate.

Is it illegal to remove the air box? I'm not sure if that's what were talking about, but I was reading my manual yesterday and came across something on page 73 that said its illegal to tamper with the emissions system including removing the air box. Can someone clarify for me? I'm just a little confused and this maybe not even be relevant but please don't hate.

Yes.

My dad hates extra loud things.... particularly HDs that set off car alarms and stop your heart (I can hardly blame him). He asked a local LEO he met at Starbucks about the loud motorcycles, and they shrugged it off, saying they won't do anything about it. I assume this depends where you are.

if you yank the airbox, I don't now anyone who has done so that is still using the stock airbox. You would need to change the main jets. (costs about $5 each) I'd suggest using 110 Keihins to start and take plug readings to figure out if you need to go up or down from there.

that should keep you really busy. :D

if you buy a jet kit, be sure to get one made for no airbox.

HELLO KIM JUST A QUESTION???? I HAVE REMOVE MY KLEEN AIR INTAKE AND I HAVE REJET AND HAS A FULL EXHAUST KnN FILTERS AND HAS A BRT RACING CDI NON PROGAMABLE...IS THIS REMOVING THE AIR BOX WILL REALLY HELP OR WHAT BENEFITS MY BIKE WILL GET IN THIS MOD AND CAN U SEND ME A LINK WHERE I CAN PURCHASE THIS KIT...thank u very much

How can it be applied to an FI ninja (2011)? I think that there will be only 1 intake hole for the engine at the airfilter box right? So I'll need a different filter.

Anyone tried it on a FI model? Which filter should I use?

^^^ Interested on the same... can I use a pod filter on a 250 FI?

^^^ Interested on the same... can I use a pod filter on a 250 FI?

Yes but you need a power commander to adjust the amount of fuel delivered to the engine. Simply modifying the stock intake will cause your bike to run far too lean

juice box needed there, so you can adjust the ammount of fuel that the EFI pumps into the engine.

there was a thread somewhere a while back with pictures and general Butt-dyno results from someone playing around with the juice box on their Euro EFI model.

Yes, I got the Bazzaz with autotuner ready to install, just doing some research at what else can I do to improve the power on the FI... also looking at the factory pro Ignition Advance Kit, and removing the Kleen air system.
Thanks

Yes, I got the Bazzaz with autotuner ready to install, just doing some research at what else can I do to improve the power on the FI... also looking at the factory pro Ignition Advance Kit, and removing the Kleen air system.
Thanks

Full area p race exhaust!

http://areapnolimits.com/products/Slip-On-Exhaust-Kawasaki-Ninja-250R-Mid-High-Mount-Race-2008.php

I dont think i want to disassemble the whole bloody bike just to dump the airbox.....too much work and even after all that, its still just a 250... :-D

I dont think i want to disassemble the whole bloody bike just to dump the airbox.....too much work and even after all that, its still just a 250... :-D

It only took me about 3 minutes to get the airbox out

duVZI9EyV2Y

And then you get to take out your frustration on the airbox

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b276/seanvoight/clip1-3.gif

what a great help, than you, am doing this as soon as filter arrives, Man, dont look forward to all the busted skin with that air box, but being a retired sailor, I have the vocab for the job, hahaha

follow the instructions and it is easy. Don't try and take short cuts. If you can't get to a screw take off what needs to be taken off to get to it.

I did this few months ago and it was a breeze, It took me longer to adjust my needles and change my jets than it did for me to pull airbox. Primarily cuz i did not have a JIS screw driver and i fumbled a bowl screw and it got jammed in by the generator? whatever and i did not have the right pliers at the time to get it out, took forever to get damn thing out with screw driver

VeX, I know this post is dated but can you give the part # for the breather you used? I'm in the process of doing some mods and clean up and I really like the simplicity here.

After finally having removed and rebuilt carb with factory pro jets plus replaced the airbox with a K&N 0990 ---- I for the life of me cannot remember where the the idle adjusmtent knob attaches to?????

It's on the bottom of float bowl? float bowl screws?

If so-- I rippin it back down!

Anyone?

2007 250

VeX, I know this post is dated but can you give the part # for the breather you used? I'm in the process of doing some mods and clean up and I really like the simplicity here.

I haven't seen him around these parts in along time. If you look at whats displayed at your local auto parts store, it's probably one of two choices. It's been a while since I did it, but I do remember that once you see it it's obvious.

Hi

I know this is super old post , but which filter is better

Rc 2370 or R0990?

Thanks

Bump

Ok so I did this mod a couple years ago. Last year I could not get my bike started. (That is a separate issue now resolved). Today I got is fired up for the first time since the pod mod, rejetting etc. I went for a short ride only to have oil spewing from my breather. I mean A LOT of oil, enough to coat my entire rear wheel. Fish tailing on an oil slick is pretty unnerving. Anyway how do I eliminate oil pouring out of the breather? Anyone got a good solution?

You'd probably get more help if you start a new thread, but oil pouring out the breather could be a sign that you have way too much oil in the engine, or that your rings are not sealing. Start by checking your oil level. It's not impossible that your petcock leaked gasoline into the engine all winter, for example, and now you have a lot of fuel/oil mix in the crankcase.

Possibly silly question Mhancock309, but do you have a filter over the crankcase breather port? There can be a good bit of spatter if it's not covered

Thanks Triple Jim. I was having trouble with my iPad not letting me start a new thread. I did check the fluid level and it was high. Drained it and found fuel mixed in. Momaru, I do have a filter on the port but it still got all over. I think problem solved...

What was it, leaking float valve and leaking petcock?

I replaced my ignition with and aftermarket unit not knowing that I needed a 100 ohm resistor for the grey wire so after cranking my bike and flooding the carbs several times gas must have gotten into the crank case. But thanks to this forum I've been able to figure these things out:clapping:

You probably already know, but keep an eye on the oil level for a while to be sure it was just cranking that did it. It seems a little unlikely that you cranked so much you raised the oil level, but unlikely things do happen.

15 min.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/Mobile%20Uploads/768344AF-2FDE-4126-B3D6-96DC0E3F95E5_zpsa1esfo5f.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/Mobile%20Uploads/768344AF-2FDE-4126-B3D6-96DC0E3F95E5_zpsa1esfo5f.jpg.html)

coming over from zrx's, pods are the norm. we wired them up to hold em in case they came off. i will look into doing this on the 250. will be using stock air box runners too.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/11Small2.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/11Small2.jpg.html)

another trick is to install this and run breather line higher up. this will eliminate condensation build up in crankcase. must run valve in vertical position. i'll post a pic when i do mine. i don't know if this is a issue with the 250r but zrx 1100/1200 under cold environment short runs would build up condensation on oil level window. http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/Picture009Small.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/Picture009Small.jpg.html)

coming over from zrx's, pods are the norm. we wired them up to hold em in case they came off. i will look into doing this on the 250. will be using stock air box runners too.

hey maverick just curious how you fared, especially with use of the stock airbox runners?

hey maverick just curious how you fared, especially with use of the stock airbox runners?
no change. actually i’m working closely with member dannoxyz on jetting experiments with pod filters. so far everything we are doing is cutting edge and will turn the pod community upside down. we are going to prove the airbox must have is a myth and proper tuning can be done with pods. problem is dyno jet and factory pro are giving jet kits that are quite rich. factory pro gives 110,112,115 mains. these are are way to big! to make maximum power, lean mains need to be installed!with danno’s as a guide, the exploited ninja with uni 6”pods is now skirting near stock main jets! i’ve tried 108’s, 102’s,100’s and now heading towards 98’s. keep in mind elevation will factor in too. augusta, ga is 132’ above sea level.

I think there's some quantitative analysis that's overlooked here. Coming from bigger bikes, it was common to go with pods for performance-increase. Due to packaging constraints on bikes, there's limit on size of airbox and filter. Removing them on 750-1000cc bike and replacing with individual filters increases filter's surface-area and reduces restriction. This improves high-RPM flow and power.

However, on Ninja-250, with similar sized frame, tank, seat-height, etc., it has airbox and filter of roughly same size as 600cc supersport bikes! Filter on my 250R is about same size as my CBR600RR's! A bike with 5x air-flow and 5x power! So I concluded that filter and airbox on 250R doesn't pose any restrictions nor does it rob any power.

Talking with other racers backs up that conclusion as none of them have removed airbox for power-gains. Perhaps use K&N-type cotton washable filter for longevity. Even racers in 250 Superbike classes which allows for airbox removal don't do it. And racers will and have tried every dirty trick possible for advantage! I've tried searching for and asking for before-and-after dyno-charts of pod-conversions on 250s, nothing.

Many street riders report that pod filters cause them fuel-metering issues in partial-throttle mid-range and that bike is sensitive to crosswinds causing hiccups. Reverting them back to factory config alleviates all these problems. Such as this case: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=84623

Other topic is carb-tuning process, which I'll go over once I dig up info...

Other aspect of quantitative analysis that's incomplete is with carb-tuning. We should be aware that new-gen bikes are VERY different from pre-gen bikes. Engines are tuned completely differently with different cams-profiles, head/port shapes, valves, exhausts, ignition-maps and of course, carburetor configurations. This entirely affects characteristics of engine and power-output

pre-gen 1988-2007
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/42349442241_f46a5cefda_o.png

new-gen 2008-2012 - from Motorcyclist comparing with other small bikes
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/42349442421_eb33a8b85c_o.png

And dyno-chart comparing them, roughly ~6% difference.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/41446933065_1d36427f64_z.jpg

Pre-gen vs. New-gen summary
5.75s vs 6.90s - 0-60 time
14.59s vs 15.30s - 1/4-mile time
87.82s vs 84.15mph - 1/4-mile speed

Performance figures between them also roughly reflect power-differences, although lighter pre-gen takes bigger lead from stand-still.. Riding them back-to-back, I can feel differences in power-output, but barely. For butt-dyno to really distinguish, you need at least 10% variation.

That ~6% power-difference is part of carb tuning configuration from factory. Which should be used as baseline for all mods and adjustments:

Pre-gens = 105 main jets
New-gens = 98 main jets

Roughly same ~6% difference repeats itself. Be very, very aware when you are talking about jetting changes, which model you're dealing with. Pre-gen or New-gen; what works for one will not work for other!

i tried both. even tried k/n with airbox intake trick. no change. i left the uni’s in because they look cool!

One big gain can be had on new-gens by removing snorkel from air-box. That's tiny straw compared to size of air-box and filter. :)

One big gain can be had on new-gens by removing snorkel from air-box. That's tiny straw compared to size of air-box and filter. :)

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20180520_131822_zpsnzfh3ydi.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20180520_131822_zpsnzfh3ydi.jpg.html)

Keep in mind, a lot of racing orgs require a stock airbox. You'll be fine for trackdays with pods.

I've kind of always wondered why, but there it is...