Ok, so here is my first attempt at a small DIY.

Adjusting the preload isn't a really big deal, but if you've never worked on a bike before, it can be a little bit daunting! Since I was going to do it anyway, I figured I would take pictures and post it up here.

After having the chance to ride another forum member's bike, I realized just how mushy mine felt. Knowing that he'd adjusted his, I decided to give it a try with mine, and I like it much better now! The suspension is stiffer, and it's not as much the feeling that I'm turning in pudding or something...

So, to adjust your rear shock preload:

1. You need this thing out of your tool kit that came with the bike:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_DQskVeNT-_s/SW_9NJ7UN2I/AAAAAAAAAG4/aM3f-oXeYMQ/s400/100_4846.JPG

2. I reached in from the right side, preferring to avoid removing the chain guard and the grease on the chain if at all possible... I placed the spanner as far around as I could, and pulled:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_DQskVeNT-_s/SW_9OqZWDcI/AAAAAAAAAHA/awsKnbSlL6w/s400/100_4847.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_DQskVeNT-_s/SW_9Px7NPpI/AAAAAAAAAHI/5gku7kntU-4/s400/100_4848.JPG

it takes a little effort, so I used both hands:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_DQskVeNT-_s/SW_9QecErmI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/YhUyOR4KDwA/s400/100_4849.JPG

3. And now it's on the second notch :)
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_DQskVeNT-_s/SW_9Rjhbx2I/AAAAAAAAAHY/m57effaM2ss/s400/100_4851.JPG

That's all there is to it - rather simple really!

Is it preferable to leave on or to remove expensive jewelry before trying to break the lock collar loose?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=245

:rotflmao:

hey, thanks... there have been many that have asked about how to do this... pictures help. :)

I would add...

1. wear gloves... it's very easy to slip off the adjuster when trying to move the ring and slipping can cause nice bobos to your hands.

2. when pulling on the adjuster wrench, keep it as flat in the grooves of the adjuster ring as possible so all the force is in line with the adjuster. If you are at an angle to the adjuster, the wrench will slip off easier.

3. when you adjust it for the first time, it is really difficult to get it moving. Once you get it to move, it seems to adjust easier for the other positions. It's like it's "stuck" the first time you try to move it.

First attempt at a DIY and all Alex can do is point out what's wrong...:tsk:
All joking aside, thanks for the pics. I hadn't considered doing this as the bike is plenty stiff with me on it (hooray for being tiny), but it's nice to see the pics.
EDIT: kkim beat me to posting, and so kindly followed Alex's footsteps, lol

First attempt at a DIY and all Alex can do is point out what's wrong...:tsk:

Au contraire! :eek: I was just posting up what made me smile. ;)

Big props to noche_caliente for posting up a DIY! :happy100:

Is it preferable to leave on or to remove expensive jewelry before trying to break the lock collar loose?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=245

:rotflmao:

Ah, so you know about the 4 C's do you? I NEVER take them off. They insured if anything happens to them, as am I....
You're just jealous that your hands aren't this pretty :p

hey, thanks... there have been many that have asked about how to do this... pictures help. :)

I would add...

1. wear gloves... it's very easy to slip off the adjuster when trying to move the ring and slipping can cause nice bobos to your hands.
...
3. when pulling on the adjuster wrench, keep it as flat in the grooves of the adjuster ring as possible so all the force is in line with the adjuster. If you are at an angle to the adjuster, the wrench will slip off easier.

Yes, it does slip if it's not flat, and yes, it does hurt when that happens. In the words of the great Kkim, 'ask me how I know'!

Yes, it does slip if it's not flat, and yes, it does hurt when that happens.
lol... How do you think I know to advise wearing gloves? It freakin' hurts when it slips!! :yell:

I still have a pretty little bruise on the back of my hand from it. It will heal - no biggie!

Oh, speaking of healing - the knee got a clean bill of health (as clean as it gets anyway) - when going in for my injections today! :)

Oh, speaking of healing - the knee got a clean bill of health (as clean as it gets anyway)

so, what does that mean?

so, what does that mean?

all the damage from the summer is as healed as it's going to get, and I don't seem to have shortened the life expectancy of them prior to the replacements by too much... only 16 more years to go...

great diy. will help many 250R-owners.

Didnt remove the chain guard. I didnt wear gloves, and it didnt slip either :) You just have to make sure the key is properly in place before you pull, or i guess it can go wrong.

Mine was at the second notch, stock. Have adjusted it to 3, even though im in the very bottom of the weight-range for notch two. Second notch was just too soft really.

That tool was created directly from hell.by the devil.. that is all I have to say about when I adjusted mine. hell hell hell. Demon spawn.. Ok not helpful but it had to be said.

Thanks for the DYI !!! noche_caliente

um... Alex, How do you think we get MORE expensive jewerly!! duh

noche_caliente thanks for posting the pics. next time i will try your way and not remove the chain guard.

about the gloves thing... when i was doing it, i didn't have my gloves on and it didn't seem the wrench was on all too securely. i was thinking, "please don't slip, please don't slip."

kkim, thanks for the info about it only turning in one direction. i was wondering about that. i currently have mine set to #3 and it feels a bit too stiff. gonna try #2 out.

one more thing.... does anybody know what weight each setting is? i think i remember the first one was 150#.

Gary,

I don't think there is a weight chart for specific adjuster settings. You just need to adjust it and see how it feels for you and the type of riding you do. Use what feels best. I cranked mine up one notch at a time until I felt it was too harsh, then went back down to the setting before that.

I was running the middle setting with the stock tires, but since I switched to a bit taller rear tire, I backed the adjuster back one notch to the the second softest setting (#2) w/ #1 being the softest.

Experiment to find what is the best for you and be thankful we at least have a degree of adjustability with these bikes. The previous gen bikes don't have an adjustment feature on the rear shock.

I just adjusted mine to the middle setting (2nd softest is too soft) and I had just oiled the chain with the chain guard removed, but I put it back on before changing the rear shock :rolleyes:

I find it easier on the left of the bike above the chain, that way you can push on the tool. luckily it has not slipped off on me as yet. :thumbup:

There is a table in the owners manual with weight and settings. But ofcourse, adjust it to what works best.

I wonder, is it easier to do a wheelie with the rear shock adjusted to 3, 4 or 5? 2 is stock.

There is a table in the owners manual with weight and settings. But ofcourse, adjust it to what works is best.

If there is, I stand corrected. Thank you for that clarification.:)

edit- I just checked my owners manual and there is no such table in our manuals. Must be a difference between the euro and US owner's manuals? Plus, our stock shock setting is set to the lowest of the 5 settings, what they label as the #1 setting which is supposed to be for a 150lb rider. They just tell you the spring gets stiffer the higher the number with no other weight references.

I adjusted mine prior to this DIY. Since I'm 195 lbs, the preload is now set in the 3rd slot. Noche..still thanks for the DIY. You should consider taking the rings off, especially when working around the battery. A battery short via jewelry is very painful...HOT

If there is, I stand corrected. Thank you for that clarification.:)

edit- I just checked my owners manual and there is no such table in our manuals. Must be a difference between the euro and US owner's manuals? Plus, our stock shock setting is set to the lowest of the 5 settings, what they label as the #1 setting which is supposed to be for a 150lb rider. They just tell you the spring gets stiffer the higher the number with no other weight references.

I remembered wrong sorry. Theres only a table showing that the shock gets stronger when increasing the number( 1--> 2,3,4 or 5). I guess its the same table that you talk about. The one with an arrow pointing from No.1 towards No. 5.

So it has no weight references, but it does say this: "The standard setting position for an average-build rider of 68kg (150 lb) with no passenger and no accesories is No. 2."

I hit a hole in the road last summer, and the "fender" or whatever its called, got pushed in a little by the tire. The tire fell into the hole, the bike came after, but when it did the tire was on its way up again, as i had passed the hole, and somehow they actually the tire smashed into the fender. I can see a little print (2-3inches deep) in the black fender, if I stick my head up there. I was going like 45mph. Therefore i got it up from 2 to 3, and i also think its a little soft for my driving. So can wait to test No.3 on the road. Im about 145 lb by the way.

What position on the adjuster does it come from the dealers when you purchase it? Ours come set in the softest position. (#1)

What position on the adjuster does it come from the dealers when you purchase it? Ours come set in the softest position. (#1)

No.2 ;)

as it says in the manual, thats the standard position. looks like you got it all wrong in US, because No.2 is for 150lbs :D

Maybe they just put in a lighter spring for the euro bike? Big Macs take their toll after a few years, so they may have had to compensate for the US riders! :D

Maybe they just put in a lighter spring for the euro bike? Big Macs take their toll after a few years, so they may have had to compensate for the US riders! :D

hehehe :D

Kelly, Mine came set at 2 and I changed it to 3. I`ll see what it feels like when the snow and ice goes away. This morning, it was 26 degrees below zero--coldest day so far. Incidentally, I tamed the shock spanner down by fabricating a handle from a hose. The hose is glued in place with J B Weld Epoxy. I agree that gloves are a good idea.

Alex,

IIRC, wasn't yours a used bike when you purchased it?

No.2 ;)

as it says in the manual, thats the standard position. looks like you got it all wrong in US, because No.2 is for 150lbs :D


We(USA) probably got a heavier spring ;)

We(USA) probably got a heavier spring ;)

i guess so ;) , my table in the manual doesnt look like yours either.

what does this mean?
road = bad, and speed = high

We(USA) probably got a heavier spring ;)

The spring on the 2009 USA bike I have here is about 90 Nmm.

I had to go to a 80Nmm spring for a 180 Lb rider to get the correct Rider sag (30MM) with a reasonable amount of spring preload.

I would say a 90 NMM would be OK with a 210 to 230 LB rider

On the spring chart below Green is the stock spring and Red is the spring that comes on the New Ohlins Ninja 250R shock (KA840)

http://www.rogueracing.org/dk/KA840.jpg


By the way same with the fork spring waaaay too stiff for a 180 Lb rider.

I had to go to a 80Nmm spring for a 180 Lb rider to get the correct Rider sag (30MM) with a reasonable amount of spring preload.
I would say a 90 NMM would be OK with a 210 to 230 LB rider

By the way same with the fork spring waaaay too stiff for a 180 Lb rider.

Thats good info. Was gonna bring up the sag thing(the whole point of the pre-poad adjuster), the manual doesnt even mention it...... guess it's too much for the beginner bike :)

I think the front is way to soft, if this was my bike(not the wifes)..... I would have already changed the front spring out. Maybe the spring is OK, just needs better damping?

thicker fork oil?

Thats good info. Was gonna bring up the sag thing(the whole point of the pre-poad adjuster), the manual doesnt even mention it...... guess it's too much for the beginner bike :)

I think the front is way to soft, if this was my bike(not the wifes)..... I would have already changed the front spring out. Maybe the spring is OK, just needs better damping?

Why do you think it is too soft??

Have you checked sag??

I will give you my answer first why it is not.

I would guess you think it is too soft because it dives Waaaaay to much under braking.
Diving should not be only controled by spring rate, the oil level and more important damping should take care of it.
In the stock fork it does not.
The problem with controling it with the spring, is when you are not using the brakes a stiff spring will ride like a dump truck because the springs are too stiff.

Adjusted mine today. much better, thanks.

ok, i was trying to change my setting from #3 to #2. so, i was going all the way around from 3, 4, 5, 1, 2. anyways, i can't get it to go from #5 to #1. there is too much spring tension now. i was wearing my mechanic glove and the wrench slipped. i still cut and bruised my finger. there has to be a better tool!

anyways, so i am stuck on setting #5 now. would it be easier if i got someone to sit on the seat while i did it? or would that just make it more difficult to turn? thanks in advance.

I would think having someone sit on the seat would make it even more difficult. Do you have a rear stand to lift the bike off the ground from the swingarm?

I would think having someone sit on the seat would make it even more difficult. Do you have a rear stand to lift the bike off the ground from the swingarm?

no. but i was meaning to get one. maybe now would be a good time, huh?

It would help, by taking as much load off the shock when you are adjusting it, but I've adjusted the shock w/o it on the rear stand before.

Do you have someone to help you? You can have them pivot the bike up as much as possible w/o lifting the rear wheel by using the sidestand as the pivot point. Have them push the handlebars forward and to the left while holding the front brake lever. The rear of the bike will get lighter and perhaps that would help with the rear shock.

Also, you can try spraying some wd-40 between the shock body and adjustment collar and see if that helps the collar to slide easier.

Concentrate on keeping the wrench completely square to the adjustment teeth on the adjuster. Don't give up... it is possible to go from 5 to 1. :)

thanks i will get a friend to help me tomorrow. i will try those ideas.

good luck! :)

You were at 3, why not just go to 2??

Even now it is EASIER to reduce prelaod then adding more. go from 5 to 4 to 3 to 2.

If you have weight on the bike it is compressing the shock spring making it harder to add or reduce preload.

You were at 3, why not just go to 2??

Even now it is EASIER to reduce prelaod then adding more. go from 5 to 4 to 3 to 2.

If you have weight on the bike it is compressing the shock spring making it harder to add or reduce preload.

well, kkim mentioned that you can only turn it in one direction so i didn't even attempt to turn it back from 3 directly to 2.

so you are sure it can turn in both directions? not doubting you.... just confused now. thanks.

....
2. the adjuster can only move in one direction, from softer to harder, so if you need to back a notch, you will need to go through all of the adjustment settings to get back to the softest.

....

Gary - there's only one way to find out....

true....i just don't want to break it by trying to force it a way it won't go.

boy, this motorcycle stuff is sure foreign to me.

Gary, try it. My comments were based on the shape of the adjuster "ramps". It might be possible going "backwards", but I never tried based on the ramp shapes and from other posts I've read saying the shock could be only adjusted in one direction.

That being said, I've gone through the 5th to first position before, so it is possible going that way, too.

well, kkim mentioned that you can only turn it in one direction so i didn't even attempt to turn it back from 3 directly to 2.

so you are sure it can turn in both directions? not doubting you.... just confused now. thanks.

YES! I never heard of anybody going past 5 to 1.

You can believe DK < He's Mr Suspension :) :thumbup:

You can go from 3 to 2. Yes

YES! I never heard of anybody going past 5 to 1.

I have.

I have.

You have been breathing too much salt air :thumbup:

Actually... I'd suspect brain freeze. :) It was down to 57* this morning. Brrrr... :eek:

I won't say it was easy going from 5 to 1, but it is possible. In any event, Gary, I hope you find a way to get to the setting you want. Please let us know how it turns out and how you achieved it.

Actually... I'd suspect brain freeze. :) It was down to 57* this morning. Brrrr... :eek:


I'd kill for 57* right about now! my computer told me it was -1* here! talk about far too cold, and I know that many others are even colder!

Kelly, We have been down to -26. In northern Maine, they set a record of -50

oh dear, poor Kelly would die off before we even zip up our jackets all the way. :p

lol... :smow:

ok, well i tried going from 5 to 4 to 3 to 2. thanks dan kyle for chiming in.

SOOOOOOOO much easier. i now have it set. it just clicked easily down each notch.

not saying it isn't possible to go from 5 to 1, but i couldn't do it... then again i didn't realize until just now that the tool kit comes with the extension bar... so maybe i could have gone from 5 to 1 using that for more leverage.

thanks everybody for the help. learned a couple new things today! :)

Gary,

Glad you were able to resolve you settings and thanks for the clarification on being able to go back from a higher to a lower setting. My apologies for the bad info... I'll edit my post.

What setting did you leave it on and how does the bike ride now?

i got it set on 2 now. no worries about the info. i think you are just stronger than i am.

i haven't tried out this setting yet. planning on riding a bit later today. not sure how it looks like on your rock, but looking out my window there is literally not even one cloud in the sky. plus it is a mild 76 degrees. definitely riding weather! gotta love the winters in hawaii!

current shot from my window:

lol... I was going to post some pictures of us planting some avocado trees today, but decided against it for fear of being lynched. :) What was your noose size? :lol:

i got it set on 2 now. no worries about the info. i think you are just stronger than i am.

i haven't tried out this setting yet. planning on riding a bit later today. not sure how it looks like on your rock, but looking out my window there is literally not even one cloud in the sky. plus it is a mild 76 degrees. definitely riding weather! gotta love the winters in hawaii!

current shot from my window:

Hey, Gary! http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/28/28_4_7.gif http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_11_22.gif
That is all...

oops. hehe. sorry. sometimes i don't think before i talk/type.

oh and yeah setting #2 feels perfect for my weight and the type of riding i do. just came back from a quick ride around diamond head and back. you can actually kind of see it in my pic... although, there are a whole bunch of condos and hotels blocking it.

btw, i swear i am not waving at those harley guys anymore unless they wave first. got 5 no wave-backs. stuck up buggers.

btw, i swear i am not waving at those harley guys anymore unless they wave first. got 5 no wave-backs. stuck up buggers.

Heh, that's funny. When I'm riding with my dad who rides a Harley, most of the time he waves to sport bikers and they don't return the wave until they see me and all of a sudden they feel like waving. :rolleyes:

oops. hehe. sorry. sometimes i don't think before i talk/type.

oh and yeah setting #2 feels perfect for my weight and the type of riding i do. just came back from a quick ride around diamond head and back. you can actually kind of see it in my pic... although, there are a whole bunch of condos and hotels blocking it.

btw, i swear i am not waving at those harley guys anymore unless they wave first. got 5 no wave-backs. stuck up buggers.

The hubby and I were looking at your pic - Diamond Head is off behind the two tall towers, yes?

The hubby and I were looking at your pic - Diamond Head is off behind the two tall towers, yes?

yes it is. those twin towers are really new. actually as i look out my window, there seems to be at least 6 towers that weren't there when we moved in 10 years ago. most of the new buildings are slowly blocking our ocean view.

here is the diamond head view from one of our other condos... can see most of it except for the MOST IMPORTANT part :banghead: :

Neat. So how many condos do you have? Our best man got married at waialae beach park back in '04, so we were there for a week - though I have to confess that Honolulu was my least-favorite part of the island - I prefer more of the nature scene... next HI visit, I'll be over with Kelly ;)

Gary, if the SF ever gets its act together, you'll have to bring the bike over for a ride on Kauai.

Noche... does that mean I'll have to clean out the garage for you guys to throw your sleeping bags in? :p

yeah, when people imagine hawaii, oahu is not it. way too crowded and busy. although, our windward side of the island is really beautiful.

personally, i love oahu. after all, it is home. but maui is my second favorite. it has a balance of the slower lifestyle, nature, and things to do. i think on the big island, most shops and businesses close by 6 pm... something dumb like that. it is way too country for me. but they do have the active volcano which is really cool.

kauai is beautiful, only been there once. really slow paced.

to answer your question, including our residence, we own 4 condos. although 2 are in guam. with the marine bases set to close down in okinawa by 2012 and relocating to guam, the value of property on guam has been shooting up. if you got some extra money, it still might be worthwhile to pick up some property there. idk.

edit: kelly, yeah that sf. on again, off again. i can't keep track. would love to go for a ride in kauai. that video clip you posted before was on kauai right? we don't anything like that here on oahu.

yep, that's the road up to Kokee via the Waimea canyon road.

it's the only real good riding road we have here, but it's a doozy. planning to hit it tomorrow if my riding partner gets in touch with me.... if not I'll be heading out by myself. weather is supposed to be perfect. :cool:

Kelly, My shock was set on 2 at the factory and I rode the bike for 5K miles with no problem. I weigh 195. I was running 36psi Rear Tyre and 32psi Front. Am now running 28 Front and 32 Rear and the shock absorber is set at 3. I will have to wait for some clear weather to try it out. Today we got 18" of snow.

sorry to hear that Alex... here's a shot from my ride this morning.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SXPKNkLjovI/AAAAAAAACLo/CjTD1ZrB14U/s640/DSC04924ba-1.jpg

Kelly, My shock was set on 2 at the factory and I rode the bike for 5K miles with no problem. I weigh 195. I was running 36psi Rear Tyre and 32psi Front. Am now running 28 Front and 32 Rear and the shock absorber is set at 3. I will have to wait for some clear weather to try it out. Today we got 18" of snow.

I too am 195 and last week set mine to 3.

Alex, don't you have snow tires or chains or maybe studs? I can picture you now leaned over with chains!! :eek:

Sam, I do have studded tyres on my bicycle. It doesn`t have 30HP and starts easily in the cold.

Can someone possibly take a picture of what each setting is on the spring? Mine is at the lowest (as in, on the dial itself, not sure about the shock).

I bought the shock used to transplant on my 01 Ninja and I am not sure of any of the settings.. the shock does feel a lot firmer than the stock one, though!

The spring on the 2009 USA bike I have here is about 90 Nmm.

I had to go to a 80Nmm spring for a 180 Lb rider to get the correct Rider sag (30MM) with a reasonable amount of spring preload.

I would say a 90 NMM would be OK with a 210 to 230 LB rider

On the spring chart below Green is the stock spring and Red is the spring that comes on the New Ohlins Ninja 250R shock (KA840)

http://www.rogueracing.org/dk/KA840.jpg


By the way same with the fork spring waaaay too stiff for a 180 Lb rider.

Dan,

I have a 2009 250R and I'm about 220-225 lbs... Am I good to go with stock? I suppose I should avoid the Ohlins KA840?

Dan,

I have a 2009 250R and I'm about 220-225 lbs... Am I good to go with stock? I suppose I should avoid the Ohlins KA840?

The manual gives a shock setting / rider weight reference. (see page 1 of this thread).

To repeat, the manual gives a reference of a 68 kg / 150 lb rider. For the European models, setting #2 is designed for that rider; for the US model, setting it's setting #1.

So if you're over 68 kg, you'll might want to increase the shock setting to something stiffer.

I'm 65 kg with a Euro model, and I left my rear shock at the factory default #2. It feels very firm (but not too hard). #1 would maybe be a bit more comfortable, but I guess the handling might suffer a bit if it's too soft.

YES! I never heard of anybody going past 5 to 1.
I have by myself and i'm just a 115lbs girl but not without some bruising on my hand.

I'm 102kg (225lb) with all my gear on (no laughing please) and my '09 Australian model came set to 1, I took into into a shop the other day to have some HEL s/s brake lines fitted and had a chat with their suspension guy. He was certain that I'd need it set to 4 based on my weight.

Went for a city ride after I picked it up on Friday evening and a 350 km (220 mile) country ride Saturday and, wow...totally different bike. I can't believe how much better she rides in traffic and out in the country.

This all came about from some guys suggesting on a regular Tuesday night ride (when it was blowing HARD and GUSTY [so hate that combination as a newish rider]) that the preload would have a big effect on my riding in wind. Can't say if it'll make much difference to riding in strong, gusty winds, but it has made the whole bike feel so much less "squishy" in the tail.

A.

Ive looked at the rear shock, trying to figure out how the hell do you Read or know What the Setting is set too? #5,1,3,2,4? i dont see any markings like "4" or such down there. i need to set it higher... my rear tire has rubbed the rear fender backing afew times... and i see marks from it! :eek:

(me solo, at 166 lbs.) sorry no Fat Chicks on back.... yet!!! >_< :cool:

your rear tire has rubbed your fender? something doesn't seem right. at 166 lbs, it doesn't seem like anything should be rubbing. which part is the fender? could you show a pic of where you are rubbing?

anyways, if you look at the collar on the shock, you can see that there will be 5 different levels. the lowest one is 1 and the highest one is 5. i weigh 185 lbs and i had mine set to 2. i just found that setting most comfortable for they way i rode.

The one that compresses the spring the most is 5, the one that compresses the spring the least is 1.

At the suggestion of TnNinjaGirl, I adjusted my pre-load from 1 to 3 due to the fact my cornering felt skittish and I was less than impressed about the road handling even after I changed out to Pirelli Sp. Demons. She was right! Adjustment was easy sleazy (I did have to take off my rear hugger for this) took it up to 3 in a flash, then went riding. It was back to cutting corners like a knife in butter! The difference was tremendous and I now had faith in the 2009 N-250 handling again! It seems all about the pre-load to get that bike to handle with finesse!:thumbup:

My bike just does not feel planted at all on high speed corners, it bugged me alot when I first got the bike, but I have gotten used to it so I don't really mind anymore, but if I bumped up the preload would it make it handle better at high speeds, I just left the preload alone since I weigh right at 150, but now im thinking about bumping it up a notch or two, would I see any benefit?

cedilla, it can't hurt to try. easy to do. if you don't like it, return it to how it was.

although, imo the best mod you can do to improve your high speed handling is to change out your tires. not too expensive, but you will feel much more confident hitting the twisties.

Im gonna try it before I go for a ride this afternoon, I don't plan on changing tires until the ones I have are worn out, which should not be long for the back, but the front tire still looks almost brand new.

I adjusted the preload to 2 before I went on a 200 mile ride today, the bike handled better for sure, also when I had set on 1 bumps would bounce me out of the seat if I did not stand on the pegs, I expected this to be worse after I bumped up the preload, but I was presently surprised when I found out just the opposite. I might try 3 on my next ride.

Heres my Pic after i set the pre-load of the Rear shock too #2, From #1 (factory). Where my finger points is the Black (Tab) that clicks your shock into its setting, once youve turned it enuff. Each higher setting will come from your LEFT (bikes leftside) as to know.

I had my bike only on its kickstand, no one sitting on it. It was easy as hell turning it, nor did i get a knucklebuster so i dunno why you guys are having a hard time and using WD-40 on it! :D

I had my bike only on its kickstand, no one sitting on it. It was easy as hell turning it, nor did i get a knucklebuster so i dunno why you guys are having a hard time and using WD-40 on it! :D

...that's because yours is broken. :lol:

I just bumped mine up a notch for the first time to setting #2 tonight and it was smooth and easy. I had the bike up on my paddock stand at the time.

Does anybody know how I can get this tool? Apparently my '09 Ninja didn't come with this. Kind sucks because the rear end is mushy and it takes almost no weight on the back to drop it down. Thanks!

Does anybody know how I can get this tool? Apparently my '09 Ninja didn't come with this. Kind sucks because the rear end is mushy and it takes almost no weight on the back to drop it down. Thanks!

Did you buy your bike new from a dealer? If so it should be in your tool kit under the passenger seat. If not, talk to your dealer about one.

Yup, brand new from dealer. Wasn't in the tool kit though, even though the kit was sealed.

then i would suggest you go to your dealer and let them know. otherwise, you could buy it here at bike bandit. it is part number 92110b. for $6.26

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/kawasaki-motorcycle-ex250j9f-ninja-250r-2009/o/m17969

hmm... i can't direct link, but it is under "tools and manuals"... then under "owners tools"

this is a great diy. im 200lbs and the last ride out the rear just didnt feel stable enough when i went through a tight s turn going 60. ima try to tinker with the preload this weekend :D

Question: if the bike is lowered, does that put more pre-load on the shock/spring? The reason I ask is that my bike is lowered quite a bit (due to my lack of height and desire to get my feet flat while I'm learning) and I could not budge that adjuster to save my life. I also found the rear tire to be quite in the way and there was really no position on the adjuster where I could get a clear hold with the wrench.

i'm so thankful i found this...my bike was waayyyyy too bouncy....although being 105lb and having to bump it up to the third notch, i'm starting to think maybe something is wrong with mine

Question: if the bike is lowered, does that put more pre-load on the shock/spring? The reason I ask is that my bike is lowered quite a bit (due to my lack of height and desire to get my feet flat while I'm learning) and I could not budge that adjuster to save my life. I also found the rear tire to be quite in the way and there was really no position on the adjuster where I could get a clear hold with the wrench.


I am on the same boat as you and have the same exact problem. Mine wont move either.

Try harder. :p I found it was easier to remove the chain guard, and attack it from the left side. Breaking it loose the first time can be a real pain in the ass. But once it starts moving, then you're good to go.

I went in from the left side with the chain guard still in place. Then I gripped the right side of the swingarm (If I remember correctly) with my fingers and hooked the wrench with my thumb. This gave me extra power to pull the wrench with since now my fingers can pull as my thumb pushes

Push on the bikes left side. bike should be on its kickstand on stable ground ((not sitting in grass,dirt)
then have a friend hold the bike firmly on its right side, while you push on the preload setting.

Try harder. :p I found it was easier to remove the chain guard, and attack it from the left side. Breaking it loose the first time can be a real pain in the ass. But once it starts moving, then you're good to go.

The real problem on mine is the rear tire is in the way. There's no room for the wrench to swing and I tried it from both sides, from every angle possible. My bike is lowered a LOT while I'm learning (I'm one of those vertically challenged folks). I believe the spring is significantly preloaded in this lowered state, though, so adjusting it is probably a crapshoot anyway.

the rear shock comes in the softest of the 5 spring settings from the factory. if you haven't touched the preload adjuster, you're most likely in the softest position already. lowering doesn't affect the preload position.

the rear shock comes in the softest of the 5 spring settings from the factory. if you haven't touched the preload adjuster, you're most likely in the softest position already. lowering doesn't affect the preload position.

Ok, now that I look at the suspension again I believe you are right. So the real problem is that the rear tire is in the way. I may shorten the adjuster wrench by the quarter inch it would need to clear the tire. I would like to put the adjuster on position 2.

Thanks for tip everyone. Reason I'm adjusting mine to probably setting 2 or 3 is I went over a speed bump at a parking lot and my rear tire scrapped the underside of my bike. Now I have a nice tire scratch underneath.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks for tip everyone. Reason I'm adjusting mine to probably setting 2 or 3 is I went over a speed bump at a parking lot and my rear tire scrapped the underside of my bike. Now I have a nice tire scratch underneath.
Posted via Mobile Device

do you have your bike lowered?

i'm so thankful i found this...my bike was waayyyyy too bouncy....although being 105lb and having to bump it up to the third notch, i'm starting to think maybe something is wrong with mine

So how did the change workout?
Even at 155lbs. the first setting is too bouncy for me - looks like an easy fix.

do you have your bike lowered?

Yes, my bike has been lowered already.
Posted via Mobile Device

well, it's too low if you're hitting the under fender. exactly how many inches did you drop it?

Thanks for tip everyone. Reason I'm adjusting mine to probably setting 2 or 3 is I went over a speed bump at a parking lot and my rear tire scrapped the underside of my bike. Now I have a nice tire scratch underneath.
Posted via Mobile Device


hitman i was having the same problem with the wife's bike. she was slammed on the roaringtoyz lowering links and we couldnt adjust the preload easily. i had to raise the bike up to the highest link hole to adjust preload, then drop it back down. hope this helps.

the preload now is on the stiffest (5) but i think even with a heavy rider and fully lowered you can risk rubbing still


-ben

Right - adjusting the preload will certainly help, but with preload adjustments alone it's not doing a whole lot of change on the spring rate itself, so a heavy rider is still at risk of blowing right through the remaining spring travel and bottoming out the bike.

Ok, now that I look at the suspension again I believe you are right. So the real problem is that the rear tire is in the way. I may shorten the adjuster wrench by the quarter inch it would need to clear the tire. I would like to put the adjuster on position 2.

Could you maybe try removing one of the rear sets to make more room? (Thats if you don't want to shorten your tool)

^ tried that also. basically the tab for the chain guard is usually the problem.... the spanner has to be perpendicular otherwise there isnt enough grip to turn it.. unless you are the hulk

Have a friend hold the bike vertically from the front or (better) get it up on a front-end paddock stand.

Put a floor jack under the shock knuckle.

Lift the bike.

This will unload the rear suspension completely, which both makes the adjuster easier to move AND gets the tire out of the way.

How do you know what setting you are on now?

How do you know what setting you are on now?

pg. 123 of your owner's manual.

The correct way to set up your motorcycle suspension is to sit on the seat and bounce. You want the front and back suspension to drop at the same time. If the front drops first in a corner there is a greater chance of the front tire washing out. Likewise if the rear shock drops first there is a greater chance of the rear wheel breaking loose in a corner (less of an issue than the front breaking loose first). If you want a stiffer ride than the front forks will allow , then you have to stiffen the front shocks by adding a spacer or washers on the inside of the tubes to stiffen the spring. But only if you are not already at your stiffest setting on the rear shock. Remember to get the safest ride you need to set up the bike with the front and rear dropping at the same time when loaded the way you are going to ride and carrying a passenger changes the settings.:thumbup:

I just did this today. I keep forgetting to do it so I did it right after I rode today. I haven't had a chance to ride with it one the 2 setting. I was wearing my coat and gloves when I did it and it really easy. (I didn't want to hurt my hand or burn myself on the exhaust) I just hooked it in and pulled against the passenger foot peg bracket.

So pretty much every time i hit the slightest bump in the road I end up hanging onto the handle bars for dear life as NASA identifies me as a UFO in orbit.

I'm guessing its on the first setting so I'm going to crank it up to the second one today after work (or before depending on when I wake up). This should help based on what i've read, right??

I'll let you guys know how it goes =)

Thanks for this! I didn't realize how bad my little ninja was handling until I changed the setting. Factory came at 1 and I changed it to 3 (190lb rider).100% improvement!

is the pre-load related to the seat height at all? like raising the pre-load raises the seat a bit or vice versa.

is the pre-load related to the seat height at all? like raising the pre-load raises the seat a bit or vice versa.

increasing preload will result in a higher seat height by a bit, but the main reason for adjusting preload is to set the spring weight/tension to the weight of the rider for proper suspension integration. Under ideal conditions, race sag should be set to 1/3 the total rear suspension travel.

Adjusted mine will post up after the rain stops and Ican take a ride.

So I bought my bike used, no tools... I order the adjuster a while ago with some other little things and proceeded to forget all about it since it was on back order..

To day it showed up, I didnt think much of it went and moved it from p1 to p4 and took what started as a short ride but it was like a new bike that turned into an hour lap around the block. I LOVE IT, what a difference.

So Im new to the whole bike scene and I have no idea what the difference is between a good handling bike and a bad one. From what I have read here my suspension preload should be about a 4 since I am 220lbs?

Thanks for the help!

I am 185 and I went to p4 but I think I like the ride a bit stiff. It is an effect you can really feel in seconds. If your not sure take it for a quick ride in p1 then the same ride in p5 adjust to comfort.

Adjusted mine yesterday, as some people mentioned it was a little hard to do at first, but i was able to get it with one hand from the left side of the bike (using my right hand and holding the bike with my left).

I adjusted to the second setting, and probably going to adjust once more to the third today.

I weigh 150lbs and i'm just wondering what the worst thing that could happen is if i ride it at a setting that may be too high say the 5th setting?

Adjusted again today. Went from 2 to 3, then back to 3 to 2. Both directions seemed very difficult compared to 1 to 2 for some reason =/

Slipped and hurt my hand trying to do 2 to 3, then put some gloves on :o

3 was really stiff for me (150lb rider) So I went back to 2. which felt better than 1 but couldve just been in my head. We'll see tomorrow.

But for the record you can go from higher numbers to lower numbers and I had to take the swingarm off both times this time unlike the first time which I was able to do gloveless and with one hand for some odd reason ??

... I had to take the swingarm off both times ...

Holy frijoles! That's a bunch of work, pulling the whole swingarm just to change your preload.
Or are you talking about the chain guard? :p

so I'm guessing 190lbs is gonna be at number 3?

Holy frijoles! That's a bunch of work, pulling the whole swingarm just to change your preload.
Or are you talking about the chain guard? :p


yes! and shush :o

yea, i had to lean on the swingarm :D

but yea im back down to setting 2. and definitely recommend wearing gloves. i have a hole in my hand because i was too stubborn to take advice...

Guess for a dude like me ( 5' 11'', 180lbs) I will need mine at #2? I think my bike right now is at #1, and the rear end is a bit soft. So, I'll go out tonight and try it out.

Bare ass nekked I'm about 215 ponds and oddly enough my 2009 ex250 is perfect on notch 4, but my 2012 ex250 is perfect on notch 1.:confused:
No explanation for the difference in the suspensions. Sure are fun to ride.:thumbup:

They DIY should probably be updated to mention that there is a pipe in the OEM tool kit that can give you more leverage. It's possible to fit the axel wrench in one side and the spaner tool in the other for even more leverage. They may have changed this over the years, but it's certainly there in the 2008 kit. I say this because ninja250 showed a different tool in his post about adjusting the steering on his GSXR with it but he insists that it came from his 250R's OEM tool kit.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/tacklejunkie/DSCN9683.jpg

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showpost.php?p=380069&postcount=124

Haven't seen that type before. Mine looks like this:

http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy304/cuongism/fa9a120a.jpg

From Bikebandit.com, toolkit for 2010 model:

http://a3.bikebandit.com/schematics/dzimages/kawasaki/dzkaw022/ka0110009046_files/9/0_0.png

I currently have an adjustable spanner to futureproof for all bikes.

Haven't seen that type before. Mine looks like this:

http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy304/cuongism/fa9a120a.jpg

From Bikebandit.com, toolkit for 2010 model:

...

I currently have an adjustable spanner to futureproof for all bikes.

Yep. Same as mine.

I used the same tool for adjusting my rear shock. Mine came out of Honda tool kit.:thumbup:

so I went from position 1 to position 5 a few months ago, and I never really looked back. Am I making my ride unnecessarily uncomfortable without any real handling gains? I'm 5'9" and about 165-175lbs (scale broke some time ago so that's ballpark) if that helps at all

so I went from position 1 to position 5 a few months ago, and I never really looked back. Am I making my ride unnecessarily uncomfortable without any real handling gains? I'm 5'9" and about 165-175lbs (scale broke some time ago so that's ballpark) if that helps at all

Does not really matter how heavy you are. The reason you want the front and back of the bike to drop together(at the same time) is for the extreme riding conditions like racing or panic handling (to get out of the way of a car approaching you in your lane). If the bike suspension drops in a predictable manner you will have a better chance of saving it (and Yourself) with out having to deal with the front or back end washing out Or having to dump the bike to save your self. If your back is harder than your front causing you to suffer Soften the back end till it at least matches the front. You will get a better ride and better more predictable handling under EXTREME conditions (something you would not notice under most riding conditions. This is how the racers set up there suspension. I am only passing on the information. Happy trails.:thumbup:

I've been toying with my suspension settings recently based on feedback in this and related threads. I've tried all five settings in various conditions now and found the following:

*I weigh 160 pounds. Setting number 2 works best for me on local, bumpy roads. Setting 3 works best on very good roads.
*Road conditions are worth 1 setting. When I am riding on good roads, I prefer a 3.
*Type of riding I'm doing is worth 1 setting. For spirited rides in the twisties, upping the suspension setting one notch to a 3 works well for me, back down to a 2 for the commute.
*Adding weight in luggage or a rider is worth 1-2 settings. An extra rider is worth 2 notches, depending on mass of the passenger. Luggage and gear adds one notch.

Overall, I found that handling does not suffer much with maximum preload. No problem hooking up the back tire out of the corner (which is the risk of running suspension that is too stiff) even riding with the setting on 5. In fact, I found turn in to be slightly better with overly stiff rear suspension. Our bikes simply lack the power to create the typical problems running with rear suspension that is too stiff. When I was running at a 5, I got a bit chattery in the back tire in less than perfect road conditions, though, and the ride is painfully uncomfortable on local, poor roads. While my outcome in corners didn't get worse, my confidence and especially my comfort eroded.

When I went too soft for conditions, there was a noticeable detriment in handling. The back tire seemed to have less grip in hard cornering and particularly in braking. My outcomes were definitely worse, requiring slower speeds and resulting in a bit more rear wheel adventure. So, if you are between settings, erring on the side of being too stiff by one setting is probably not a bad call overall on these bikes. In fact, there is an argument to be made for just saying "F*#k it" and dialling it straight up to 5 regardless of how much you weigh. For me, the roads are too bad, and I hate jamming my nuts on the seat, so I'm at a 2 or 3 as a 160 pound rider, depending on conditions and purpose of ride.

Just my observations. YMMV.

I've been dialed all the way up since I carried my fat butt and all my luggage cross-country in 2008. :P

I've just stuck with notch 3, it feels firm enough and with some of the rough roads I live by I need it.

My bike was set at 1. Changed it to 3 on the weekend, then went back to 2. Still feels too hard (our roads are ****) so I'm going to go back to 1.

I am 92kgs (x2.2 for pound conversion). Bike is a comuter.

If you're having trouble moving the adjuster, note that it's a whole lot easier if you unload the rear suspension.

If you have spools and a track stand, this is easy. Lift the bike up on the track stand and place a ladder over the rear end above the passenger pegs.

Loop a strap over the ladder, and under the tail of the bike, through the passenger peg supports. Tighten. Remove the track stand and hey presto… your bike is hanging.

Another note: I just bought a GSXR, which is my first bike with fully adjustable suspension, so I've been reading up on how to do setup properly and I've been fiddling with it. The idea is to get the suspension working in the middle of its range.

The steps, basically, are:

Lift the bike and unload the suspension completely as above.

Measure the distance between a point on the swing arm (e.g. axle) and a point directly above it on the bodywork.

Get the bike on the ground, level and supported upright (either have a friend hold it up or put it on front and rear stands -- same thing as being on the ground).

Get on the bike wearing your gear.

Have a friend repeat the measurement using the exact same reference points.

The consensus recommendation for a street bike is that the suspension should compress (sag) with you on the bike about 30-35mm. Adjust preload to achieve this.

Google Dave Moss Suspension videos and you'll get a really good education.

I used a floor jack with the bike on stands to relieve the tension on the spring. Worked fine for adjusting the tension. I set it to the 3rd position. I am 160lbs + 20-30lbs in full gear.