View Full Version : Install Block Off Plate On The 300


cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 11:11 AM
I have the M4 Full Exhaust System with the Area-P tuner. I am getting some popping on deceleration (the same both pre and post tuner). I ordered up a block off plate for the 250R. First of all it did not fit, the holes are not spaced the same, its about 1/8" difference, I am sure I could file it down to fit though.

On the 300, the system is the hose at the engine, the hose at the air box with a valve in the middle, the valve has 2 electrical plus on it, and one small vacuum line looked up to the left side throttle body..

So all I did since it was a trial, was unhook the hose at the engine side, block it off with a rubber cap. Unhooked the hose at the air box and block it off with a rubber cap. I left all the hoses and electrical connectors in place, as well as the hose on the throttle body, I figured leaving that all in place would be fine for just the trial run.. Then I started it up. It ran just fine no warning lights or anything, the exhaust was noticeably stronger smelling though..

Took it for a ride, and it was EXACTLY the same as before same popping on deceleration. It was like I did nothing other than create a smellier exhaust..

Any input on whats going on here?

lgk
January 2nd, 2013, 11:35 AM
does that tuner have the capability to log data?

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 11:54 AM
I dont think so, but honestly not 100% sure. I bought it without much research because it was the only option available haha..

lgk
January 2nd, 2013, 12:11 PM
are there other vacuum hoses hooked to the clear air system?
if so you will need to plug those as well, otherwise the manifold pressure will be off.

i'll actually recommend reattaching the hoses, since the fuel tuner is programmed for those conditions. if you start installing a filter or removing airbox and such then you should get a new map made for those conditions.

also make sure you've got the right map for the exhaust and filter you have on the bike.

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 12:26 PM
How would the tuner be effected by the block off plate? its all after the fact on exhaust output...

The hose on the throttle body is hooked up to a sensor, it just creates a vacuum within that sensor, so the air does leak out at all.. so not having it removed and plugged shouldnt change anything.. Though I can try capping it and seeing if my popping goes away..

I have the right exhaust map, I told Area-P all of my mods and they gave me a map based upon that..

Its the same as the 250R, removing the block off plate should not require a re-jet as it does not change the A/F ratio, it just pumps fresh air into the exhaust system..

lgk
January 2nd, 2013, 12:29 PM
so there's no vacuum hose to the actual kleen air system?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14043&thumb=1&d=1356610488

lgk
January 2nd, 2013, 12:38 PM
on my 250 i removed everything and plugged all the extra with caps. and didn't have any issues with popping.

the only time the popping came back was after i messed with the decel fuel cut off on my EFI kit.

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 12:40 PM
There is a vacuum line but its only hooked up to a sensor, everything on the 300 is all electric. I can try removing it from the throttle body and capping it off and see if anything else changes. I just don't see it effecting anything though as the main lines are plugged..

I did read on here when I guy removed the system on his EFI 250R he got a check engine light after he unplugged the electrical connectors on the valve..

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 12:43 PM
Look here..
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showpost.php?p=190944&postcount=21

On the 300 there is an electric plug coming off the valve just like this:

But then there is also a sensor attached to the valve, which has the vacuum line attached to it. The sensor also has an electrical connector..

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 12:48 PM
I just looked at the service manual, an "air intake pressure sensor" is what plugs into the valve from the throttle body vacuum line..

It doesnt look like the 250R EFI had this sensor..

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 12:50 PM
Here is a PDF of the Clean Air System from the Service Manual. Let me know what you guys think? I would love to remove this system and eliminate my popping exhaust.. But maybe it is not this system that is my problem??

lgk
January 2nd, 2013, 12:52 PM
thats interesting,
so the only sensor attached to the throttle body is the MAP sensor?

lgk
January 2nd, 2013, 01:00 PM
How would the tuner be effected by the block off plate? its all after the fact on exhaust output...


the only thing after the exhaust valve is the o2 sensor, but i'm not sure how it effects the reading since i removed the kleen air system before installing fuel injection on my bike.

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 01:02 PM
There is no o2 sensor on the 300, at least in the USA version..

The EFI is controlled by a handfull of sensors..

lgk
January 2nd, 2013, 01:23 PM
could have swore i saw in a pic but i guess it was a foreign 300.

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 03:32 PM
Any idea on what the "air intake pressure sensor" might do?? (besides detect air intake pressure haha)

I think I am just going to unplug all the connectors and the vacuum port on the throttle body and see what happens.. I am guessing I am going to get a engine warning light though like what was said in the 250R EFI post..

I wish I knew more about this bike, I hate to be the pioneer removing things I dont know what they actually do hahah..

lgk
January 2nd, 2013, 03:34 PM
Any idea on what the might do??

I think I am just going to unplug all the connectors and the vacuum port on the throttle body and see what happens.. I am guessing I am going to get a engine warning light though like what was said in the 250R EFI post..

I wish I knew more about this bike, I hate to be the pioneer removing things I dont know what they actually do hahah..

"air intake pressure sensor" detects vacuum inside the manifold, and help the computer calculate how much fuel to inject. engine wont run without it.

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 03:40 PM
why would it be hooked up to the, clean air system lines as well? Double useage?

lgk
January 2nd, 2013, 03:45 PM
its not uncommon for vacuum sensors to piggy back with vac lines used for other purposes.

for example the kleen air system when i had carbs was piggy backed onto petcock vac line with a tee.

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 03:49 PM
If its controlling the EFI system, shouldnt it not piggy back other systems, seems like it would off the reading by vacuum going to other locations..

hmm.... so I am stuck now.. I think I should just put it back together and let someone else figure it out for now haha..

Unless there is a way I can disconnect that sensor from the clean air system and still have it work correctly.

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 04:12 PM
Ok looking though the service manual, I read that if you unplug the valve it will throw a code but the engine will still run as normal, the ECU doesn't make any changes..

Then I read if I undid the air intake pressure sensor, it would throw a code and the ecu would go into damage control mode and still run but in a default mode..

So I would need to find a way to remove the valve and still allow the "air intake pressure sensor" to operate correctly..

jaybo
January 2nd, 2013, 05:49 PM
Is this clean air just venting the crankcase to the intake manifold? Someone said it pumps air into the exhaust but I havent seen any tubes to the header for that. Are they cast into the head and to the exhaust port after the valve?

Looks to me that it uses a reed valve as a check valve to evac the crankcase pressure to the intake. I guess I need to look at it on the bike and see how it works.

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 06:03 PM
Is this clean air just venting the crankcase to the intake manifold? Someone said it pumps air into the exhaust but I havent seen any tubes to the header for that. Are they cast into the head and to the exhaust port after the valve?

Looks to me that it uses a reed valve as a check valve to evac the crankcase pressure to the intake. I guess I need to look at it on the bike and see how it works.

You need to look at the engine cut section, its cast into the head, they run straight down into the exhaust ports..

This is NOT a crank case vent, it is to add air into the exhaust to reduce emissions. There is a reed valve in there but it only lets air into the engine..

lgk
January 2nd, 2013, 06:05 PM
the crankcase vent connects directly to the airbox.

cbzdel
January 2nd, 2013, 06:08 PM
Best pic I could quickly find before leaving the office..

http://i46.tinypic.com/2hs2h77.jpg

Somchai
January 2nd, 2013, 07:04 PM
cbzdel

Chris, never mind about the popping noise cos this is coming from your full system exhaust and don't disconnect the air-valve.
Also important to know is that the 250R and the 250R-FI in this case is different like day and night.
I'm using the Leovince full-system with the Leovince FAST-Fuelsystem and had the same probs with popping, it took me a long time and many changes in the FAST-system to get away the popping. The factory setup maybe is not always the best. Funny my popping came from to rich and not lean what is the normal case.
The full-exhaust-systems are not complete dense, they are just plugged together and held by a spring so they always pull some air inside on deccel.
Good luck for you.

Ryephile
January 4th, 2013, 09:15 AM
It looks like the "clean air system" is simply an air pump that dilutes the exhaust stream pre-cat. It's interesting to see the engine have this; I suspect it's to meet legal standard in other markets where they actually measure exhaust emissions.

Deleting this would enrichen the exhaust stream [post combustion] and likely cause the popping you're hearing. The popping on decel is simply extra fuel in the exhaust pipe that's finishing it's combustion. It doesn't hurt anything, it's just a sign of a less-than-ideal tuning. The ECU tuning should have the fuel injectors turned off for most zero load RPM points except when it approaches idle, to keep it from stalling.

Also, since you changed the exhaust, you deleted the catalytic converter, which can act as a flame arrestor and/or muffler. Removing the kitty will increase audible popping that was there all along.

cbzdel
January 16th, 2013, 12:45 PM
The driven 250R block off plate does not fit the 300.. But the SSR block off plate fits great :)

cbzdel
January 16th, 2013, 12:48 PM
Guess I should say what I did.. I removed the hoses from the valve.. Left the valve in place, but the IAT sensor hangs off of it..

If you remove the valve you will get a CEL unless you splice the electrical wires together which hooked up to the valve. Plus you will have to find a way to mount the valve.

So leaving the valve in place I got no CEL plus did not have to relocate the valve.

I am upgrading to a pod filter, so I just needed to use the block off plate. This 100% eliminated my popping I was having on decel.