Went to the NY International Motorcycle Show yesterday and got my first look at the 300.

I really don't like the upright ergos of the Ninjette and greatly prefer clip-ons. On my 08, I can't get them as drooped as I'd like because of a ridge in the bodywork that interferes with the control housings.

The good news is that it's not there on the 300. It looks like there's plenty of room for clip-ons.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a115/adouglas2001/2012%20NY%20International%20Motorcycle%20Show/IMG_2826.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a115/adouglas2001/2012%20NY%20International%20Motorcycle%20Show/IMG_2824.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a115/adouglas2001/2012%20NY%20International%20Motorcycle%20Show/IMG_2825.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a115/adouglas2001/2012%20NY%20International%20Motorcycle%20Show/IMG_2829.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a115/adouglas2001/2012%20NY%20International%20Motorcycle%20Show/IMG_2828.jpg

There is. These are Woodcraft clipons.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y245/synernut/Ninja%20300R/Ninja300r003-2.jpg

Peanut, I love the pictures of your 300. Have you gotten a chance to ride it at all or are you just putting on all the hardware you want asap?

I can't wait to see what you can do with it on the track. :D

Peanut, I love the pictures of your 300. Have you gotten a chance to ride it at all or are you just putting on all the hardware you want asap?

I can't wait to see what you can do with it on the track. :D

These are Bikers Clip-ons in blue.

Enjoy!

These are Bikers Clip-ons in blue.

Enjoy!

ohh my, that is sexy.

Peanut, I love the pictures of your 300. Have you gotten a chance to ride it at all or are you just putting on all the hardware you want asap?

I can't wait to see what you can do with it on the track. :D

I have had a few opportunities to ride. I've put about 250 miles on the bike. Right now all of my bodywork is at Sharkskinz being used to make molds. Right now it looks like this.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y245/synernut/Ninja%20300R/photobucket-8138-1358642362318.jpg

Nice. Race body work :)

Did you decat the exhaust?

Nice. Race body work :)

Did you decat the exhaust?

Hopefully Sharkskinz will be able to make street bodywork as well. I didn't decat the exhaust. Leo Vince is making a full exhaust for the 300 so I'm waiting for that.

Does the 300 need the same risers like the 250 for the wc clip ons?

I just installed a set of 250 clip ons on my 300. You can also see the Galfer brake lines. The only issue I had was that the clutch sensor connector hits the woodcraft riser, so I had to push the clutch lever and grip a little further left than I initially wanted.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/792220_10151569518370312_1662735962_o.jpg

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/841217_10151569521515312_1365242880_o.jpg

I like how that looks with black bars.

Where do you get those Bikers clip ons from? Can't find them and they are awesome.

Cool! The 300 looks awesome with clip ons.

I put the Woodcraft clip-ons on my 300 track bike, but they weren't low enough. Couldn't go lower because the Brembo master cylinder I put on was hitting the gauge if I lowered the bars too far. So I used a little zip-tie engineering and a hacksaw to mount the gauge deeper in the fairing bracket, and was able to lower the clip-ons down to where I wanted them. Had to trim the race bodywork a little for clearance too, as well as trimming off the metal tabs from the ouside of the fairing bracket, but the riding position is MUCH better with the lower clip-ons.

http://www.ducatiomaha.com/images/jj/Ninja300b.jpg

http://www.ducatiomaha.com/images/jj/Ninja300c.jpg

http://www.ducatiomaha.com/images/jj/Ninja300d.jpg

Sprinter, do you have any pics with the track plastics on, showing the cut-away on the upper fairing for the lowered clip ons? I just got my plastics painted, I probably should have done this first. . . oh well, I can always just cut away and hope the paint doesn't splinter too much. . . I agree the bike would corner more aggressively with lower clipons, at least it should. . .

Sprinter, do you have any pics with the track plastics on, showing the cut-away on the upper fairing for the lowered clip ons? I just got my plastics painted, I probably should have done this first. . . oh well, I can always just cut away and hope the paint doesn't splinter too much. . . I agree the bike would corner more aggressively with lower clipons, at least it should. . .

I will snap some after I get the bike put back together for next week's track days.

Sprinter, did you have to grind any off of the triple clamp to get a tighter angle from the bars? I've installed Woodcrafts on my 300 and The bars are much too straight now. I read online in some other forum that people are grinding their triple clamps down! It's hard for me to be sure without pics of your bodywork, but it looks like you have much more droop than I was able to get. What's your secret?!

Sprinter, did you have to grind any off of the triple clamp to get a tighter angle from the bars? I've installed Woodcrafts on my 300 and The bars are much too straight now. I read online in some other forum that people are grinding their triple clamps down! It's hard for me to be sure without pics of your bodywork, but it looks like you have much more droop than I was able to get. What's your secret?!

I dropped them down far enough that they could be rotated back at a more natural angle. The round tube mount on the clip-on is sitting just below the top triple clamp. With the clip-on any higher, they are locked into a position where the bars are too straight as you mentioned. Note that you DO have to modify the gauge mount and cut off the outside tabs on the metal fairing bracket to do this, as well as trimming the bodywork.

I dropped them down far enough that they could be rotated back at a more natural angle. The round tube mount on the clip-on is sitting just below the top triple clamp. With the clip-on any higher, they are locked into a position where the bars are too straight as you mentioned. Note that you DO have to modify the gauge mount and cut off the outside tabs on the metal fairing bracket to do this, as well as trimming the bodywork.

For better adjustibility u can get riser spacer from woodcraft, take a look at my post #12 and #14 here http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=96052

Hey JJ, why do you have to grind off the fairing mounts? I chopped up my gauge mount yesterday, and it definitely gives me more space in the cockpit, now I'm thinking of lowering the clipons quite a bit, I know I'll have to cut into the bodywork, but will I have to grind the fairing stays as well? how much did you drop yours? Any pics with bodywork on for point of reference?

Sorry, I know its a lot of Q's. I haven't really gotten the suspension dialed in yet, but I agree that lowering the clipons should help, although the other geometries will probably change as well. . .

I'll take some pics with the bodywork on there after I get it back together. Right now I'm waiting for the fork cartridges to come in before I can get it all buttoned up for the track weekend coming up next week.

The fairing tabs are right where my levers are at full steering lock, so I cut them off. They're not being used to mount the race upper fairing anyway, so I didn't need them.

thanx. I keep puttin on and taking off my crap as I don't have a safe place to store the bodywork, I should just leave all that crap off until race weekends. . .

Here's a shot of how much of the bodywork I cut away to allow clearance for the clip-ons. This is the lowest I could go and still clear the modified gauge mount.

http://www.ducatiomaha.com/images/jj/Ninja300h.jpg

Cool, thanks, thats the angle I wanted to see. I noticed you didn't drop your top triple down your tubes at all, I have about 4 mm of fork tube above my top triple now, but I may adjust it back again, as I'm getting some bucking/rocking mid-turn with them lowered like that. Since I'm considering cutting away at the Catalyst plastics, I should be able to drop the clip ons regardless of how I adjust the triple and still have clearance, although the geometry is the same.

Cool, thanks, thats the angle I wanted to see. I noticed you didn't drop your top triple down your tubes at all, I have about 4 mm of fork tube above my top triple now, but I may adjust it back again, as I'm getting some bucking/rocking mid-turn with them lowered like that. Since I'm considering cutting away at the Catalyst plastics, I should be able to drop the clip ons regardless of how I adjust the triple and still have clearance, although the geometry is the same.

I'm actually in the process of changing that right now, I'm going to run 15mm of fork tube above the top triple and 327mm eye-to-eye length on the rear shock, based upon some numbers I got from Ohlins. We'll see how that does this weekend at the track.

Wow, that will dramatically decrease the rake, how much do you weigh? I had Elka do a custom shock, and its super-stiff in back, so I shortened my tubes, but I'm kinda adrift on getting it dialed in. I need to take more careful notes and pay more attention when I move something, keep me in the loop if you don't mind on how your suspension plays out. . .
Thanx,
Joel

Also good to be conscious of your shock-height in back, I didn't lower mine at all, but may need to in order to compensate for the shorter fork length. . .

I'm getting some bucking/rocking mid-turn with them lowered like that.

right before the end of the bowl CW? i was getting a lot of that before i adjusted my rear end a bit. now i'm curious if i have my rake too steep

Yeah, the bowl and any other high-speed turn, but I'm the last person from whichyou'd want to take suspension advice. Height and stiffness, rebound and compression should all be balanced though, and I think mine's outta whack.

The stock shock is 320mm eye-to-eye, so I'm going up quite a bit higher on the rear. I ran it at 324mm the first time out and it still felt like it could be higher, Ohlins is saying 325-330mm depending on which tires, other setup, etc. for the TTX shock. I had the forks at 5mm above the triple to start with, and it was nowhere near being unstable, so I think I can go quite a bit lower on the front, if it is unstable I'll raise it back up a little bit.

people are having good luck with the driven clip-ons with 2 5/8 rise.. they are adjustable with 0* or 10* pitch.. I think I'll go that route rather than woodcraft..

the 250/300s have nearly identical geometry, and just sayin' my bike, Fogle's and Hong's all have nearly the same geometry.

Fork tubes flush with top of triples, my dogbones (which I've been incredibly lazy about making more of) which raise the rear of the bike about 1", and balanced front and rear suspension. Balanced meaning when you stand up on the pegs, put your hands on the bars and bounce, the front and rear compress around the same rate.

Thanx Steve, interesting info, although Fogle was the guy who told me to raise my fork tubes. . . I think its 'cuz my rear is really hard. Is the dogbone mod any different than having an adjustable height on an aftermarket shock?

Just took mine for a shakedown ride around the block after getting it all set up with those ride height settings and getting the damping set up to a baseline. Feels pretty good, but won't know until I can get it down to some lean angle at the track. It's definitely not unstable at speed with these ride height settings though, so that's encouraging.

Hey JJ, just checking back to see how you liked the clip ons lowered? I'm about to carve up my pretty painted plastics because with my Woodcrafts, they just seem to high, and I want to drop them down a couple inches, which will require some cutting. Not sure if I'll need to grind off the fairing stay or not. I got the MP revolver throtttle and put it on this weekend, but the bars are just feeling way too high. . .

Hey JJ, just checking back to see how you liked the clip ons lowered? I'm about to carve up my pretty painted plastics because with my Woodcrafts, they just seem to high, and I want to drop them down a couple inches, which will require some cutting. Not sure if I'll need to grind off the fairing stay or not. I got the MP revolver throtttle and put it on this weekend, but the bars are just feeling way too high. . .

Huge improvement, definitely worth it. You can go a little lower by trimming the bodywork, but to go all the way down you'll have to modify the gauge mount to recess the gauge back into the fairing stay farther. I just modified the plastic holder in a very rudimentary way, but I'm sure there are more elegant solutions possible if you wanted to spend more time on it.

thanx, that bolsters my confidence to shread into my pretty-painted plastics this weekend and drop the B*tches down a couple inches. . . .