View Full Version : Ninja 300 Break-In Procedure


Xplorguy
March 22nd, 2013, 02:07 PM
According to the Owners Manual you are not to exceed 4,000 RPM in the first 500 miles (this is all of 36 mph in 6th) and 6,000 RPM (about 54 mph in 6th gear) for the next 500 miles.
The manual also indicates this is seriously necessary.
This sort of break-in seems next to impossible to make happen in that it seems unbelievably unrealistic.
Comments and opinions on break-in?

subxero
March 22nd, 2013, 02:16 PM
a debate as old as time its self

do some searches, check out various break in methods and choose the one that makes the most sense in your head. And if something goes wrong with the bike take it back to dealer and always claim you followed their proceedure :)

tfkrocks
March 22nd, 2013, 02:22 PM
I did a hard break in and my bike is fine.

Trailerboy531
March 22nd, 2013, 02:35 PM
hard break in, don't be a bitch.

Tigerpaw
March 22nd, 2013, 03:22 PM
Every time you feel the need to discuss "break in procedures", change your oil. Your bike will last a long time.:rolleyes:

Seriously. I think your bike will be fine.

Seriously.

alex.s
March 22nd, 2013, 03:37 PM
there are various different parts of the bike that "break-in". brakes for example are one item that take about 100 miles until they are really fully bedded in. when talking about the engine itself, what is breaking in is; each cylinder is honed with a cross hatch pattern that effectively makes the cylinder one big file. as the engine breaks in, the cross hatch file pattern scrapes away part of the piston rings. the piston rings and cylinder wall eventually smooth out from running, and after they are smooth, the cylinders will take full compression. what most people seem to miss is that 95% of this occurs in the first 15 or 20 minutes of the engine running. the bike is ran for a minimum 2-3 miles at the kawasaki factory. which means the engine is already almost entirely broken in by the factory. after that its only relatively minor things breaking in like brakes and clutch

Jiggles
March 22nd, 2013, 03:53 PM
That's incorrect, you are not supposed to let the revs go under 6000rpm, see this video for proper procedure

Re495xZWWOY

allanoue
March 22nd, 2013, 05:08 PM
http://www.furrypartners.com/products/41-194/1.jpg

Joshorilla
March 22nd, 2013, 06:38 PM
Urgh, I grow tired of these, either ride it like the book says or ride it to the max. Tbh, it makes no difference other than the gentle way is manufacturer supported.

geeker
March 22nd, 2013, 06:40 PM
Turn key, press start, kick stand up, in gear, and go.

TheDementedDrummer
March 23rd, 2013, 12:39 AM
The first like 400 miles of all three of my bikes was at the track :cool:

psych0hans
March 23rd, 2013, 01:49 AM
The first like 400 miles of all three of my bikes was at the track :cool:

Rich Boy!!! :rolleyes::p

allanoue
March 23rd, 2013, 06:51 AM
Turn key, press start, kick stand up, in gear, and go.

Best part of this method is it works well with all other break in methods.

LoneRonin
March 23rd, 2013, 05:13 PM
no, its not necessary at all. Its only necessary for them to cover their own asses in case something happens.

drbyatch
April 4th, 2013, 01:47 AM
I was a chump and followed it -

rode very gingerly and had some very lesiurely rides.
however it's just as important to know how to ride gingerly as it is to haul ass.

csmith12
April 4th, 2013, 05:50 AM
+1 to your patience...

Hans_Brix
May 7th, 2013, 02:52 AM
You may as well read the most-often cited reference for running the hell out of your motor doing break-in:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It's scientific; it has pictures, and stuff.

lgk
May 7th, 2013, 05:42 AM
ride it like its hot.


ETA unless you're a noob, then take it easy.

JohnnyBravo
May 7th, 2013, 10:46 AM
I tried to break my bike in for like the first 5-10 miles, then Rode it normal.
As of yet my bike has not exploded

Xplorguy
May 7th, 2013, 11:58 AM
I tried to break my bike in for like the first 5-10 miles, then Rode it normal.
As of yet my bike has not exploded

Yah, I think if you were to try and follow the Kawi procedure to the letter you would have a full season of "no real riding" and be run over by the prevailing traffic. I turned to a self mandated hybrid break-in procedure developed by the need for speed, the siren song of high rpm's and the complete loss of patience...............

JohnnyBravo
May 7th, 2013, 01:24 PM
I kept it under 6k for a few minutes letting it engine break about 10 times maybe, then just rode the durn thing... Not one problem. I agree with ya on the book answer ain't no fun, and could be dangerous if ya don't have a place to ride it all those miles at horribly low rpms

psych0hans
May 17th, 2013, 08:03 AM
Hi guys, I'm picking up my new 300 tomorrow (I'll start a new thread once I have it) and the bike I'm getting will have almost 80 miles already on the clock. Is there any point trying to do the motoman break in? Or am I already past that point? Also, if I do, how soon should I change the oil and filter? Cheers!!! :thumbup:

Yakaru
May 19th, 2013, 01:40 AM
If I recall correctly Kawasaki has these guidelines for ALL their bikes, at the same RPMs, regardless of engine size -- which is why it sounds so silly for the 250/300.

allanoue
May 19th, 2013, 05:22 AM
Hi guys, I'm picking up my new 300 tomorrow (I'll start a new thread once I have it) and the bike I'm getting will have almost 80 miles already on the clock. Is there any point trying to do the motoman break in? Or am I already past that point? Also, if I do, how soon should I change the oil and filter? Cheers!!! :thumbup:
Ride your bike as if it was already broken in (it is) change your oil and filter at about 600 miles

Edit: If you normally red line a lot, change it now.

anacron
May 20th, 2013, 10:27 AM
I'm surrounded by hills in Berkeley so keeping an upper RPM limit of 4k is quite impractical. In fact, keeping it that low in my surroundings will seriously bog down the engine and cause more wear and tear.

So, I've been quite liberal with the RPM but make it a point to not redline or go beyond, say, 6.5k or 7k. Other than that I basically shift through all the gears to vary the RPM and call it a day.

We'll see in a few hundred miles how things go at the break-in service.

c-dog
June 1st, 2013, 07:13 PM
I'm surrounded by hills in Berkeley so keeping an upper RPM limit of 4k is quite impractical. In fact, keeping it that low in my surroundings will seriously bog down the engine and cause more wear and tear.

So, I've been quite liberal with the RPM but make it a point to not redline or go beyond, say, 6.5k or 7k. Other than that I basically shift through all the gears to vary the RPM and call it a day.

We'll see in a few hundred miles how things go at the break-in service.

I know you just got your bike recently and have like 150 miles on it. Did you change the oil yet? I'd do it before 200 just to be safe. I did mine before 150 and it was fine. I didn't see any flakes or glitter in the original oil.

LT505
June 1st, 2013, 09:10 PM
I just got mine and was wondering if I should follow the manual. I don't think I am going to be able to keep it under 4k RPMs for 500 miles though. I was itching to rev it up higher than that my whole first ride. Ill probably just do it for 10-20 miles then start riding normally...not sure if thats a good idea or not.

Is changing the oil before 200 miles really needed?

Jiggles
June 1st, 2013, 10:45 PM
Why doesn't anyone watch the damn video?

LT505
June 2nd, 2013, 08:50 AM
Why doesn't anyone watch the damn video?

I did, it was hilarious lol.

adouglas
June 2nd, 2013, 09:06 AM
Here's what I did with my zero-miles GSXR. It's in reasonable agreement with motorman and is easy to do:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html

YES YOU DO NEED TO CHANGE YOUR OIL RIGHT AWAY.

My ride home from the dealer was about 80 miles. I immediately changed the oil and you could SEE the metal flakes in it. It looked pearly.

If you've already gone past that critical first 70-80 miles, then Elvis has left the building. Just change your oil to get the initial metal shavings out, ride it normally, don't lug the engine, and don't bang it against the rev limiter either.

"Babying" it as the manual tells you to is not necessary.

LT505
June 2nd, 2013, 09:11 AM
Here's what I did with my zero-miles GSXR. It's in reasonable agreement with motorman and is easy to do:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html

YES YOU DO NEED TO CHANGE YOUR OIL RIGHT AWAY.

My ride home from the dealer was about 80 miles. I immediately changed the oil and you could SEE the metal flakes in it. It looked pearly.

If you've already gone past that critical first 70-80 miles, then Elvis has left the building. Just change your oil to get the initial metal shavings out, ride it normally, don't lug the engine, and don't bang it against the rev limiter either.

"Babying" it as the manual tells you to is not necessary.

I am at 30 miles right now. I guess I will get the oil changed at 80.

Hans_Brix
June 2nd, 2013, 09:25 AM
I am at 30 miles right now. I guess I will get the oil changed at 80.

I've broken in 4 bikes using the Motoman procedure. The last two were Ninja 300s (one for the girlfriend). On my FJR, I was able to change the oil at 20 miles, due to distance from the place of purchase. The oil was FULL of metal (2006 FJR). Both Ninjas were ridden 38 miles of Motoman on their first day. Neither had any signs of metal in the oil. Next change will be at 1500 miles. Then 4500 miles we'll switch to synthetic.

And thanks to the member who published the list of compatible filters I was definitely helped by that.

Lastly, screw the tech at the Kawasaki factory who installs oil filters with an air impact wrench. I should have saved pictures of what our two filters looked like once I got them off. If ammo weren't so expensive right now, I'd have shot both of them full of .45 caliber holes.

RidingBear
June 30th, 2013, 08:42 PM
has anybody not had a problem unscrewing the factory oil filter? had to hammer it with a screwdriver.

I did a hard break in. I picked up my new ninja 300 this sat. Drove all the way to Santa Monica to the beach and back home, total of 70 miles. I varied rpms mostly in the 3-5k, but a few times went up to 6-7k and I got a little over 10k.

Changed oil+filter (KN 303) today and it was full of big metal specks.

I think I will change oil around 600 miles and then switch to synthetic (the renown walmart Rotella T6)

Jiggles
June 30th, 2013, 11:13 PM
Ur doing it wrong

tsiratiug
July 2nd, 2013, 06:21 AM
I've never 'broken in' any new vehicle I've ever bought - car or motorcycle.

I change the oil after the first 200-300 miles and again before 1000. That's pretty much my break in.

I've asked two head mechanics, at the local Kawasaki and Suzuki dealerships, if they have ever seen a mechanical breakdown or long term damage from not breaking in a bike. Neither could recall a single issue directly related to not breaking in.

Until I get burned by it, I ignore the break in and just ride it - relaxed on my commute, spirited on my weekend mountain rides.

bl4ckph4nt0m
July 9th, 2013, 11:12 AM
That's incorrect, you are not supposed to let the revs go under 6000rpm, see this video for proper procedure

Re495xZWWOY

HAHA I was dying as I was watching it.

mheitman
July 9th, 2013, 12:12 PM
Love it.. Lol @ Pro Tip - " Do Illegal **** "

Break it in like you are going to ride it. Hard and fast. And remember kids, passing zones on rural 2 lanes are for Buick's overtaking tractor trailers.

JohnnyBravo
July 10th, 2013, 03:47 PM
Video???