All,

I'm 110lbs and the stock rear shock isn't doing well for me on its lowest setting. Very stiff. I know some of you have had success replacing the shock and spring - and I've tried to get in on those conversations, but was not able to find all of the information I need...

I'm still not sure what rear shocks will work well (sounds like anything made for the newer ex250 will fit - correct?). I am also not sure what rear spring to get for my weight, since I can't find a calculator for the 300, and the spring does not seem to be the same as for the 250 (is it?)

Any help with specific spring rates, parts and brands would be very helpful. I'd like to get this stuff ordered this week...

Thanks. :)

why do you feel its too stiff? just a harsh ride?? have you considered a softer seat?

It's not the seat. I have to stand on the footpegs at high speed to avoid the shaking. This has never happened with any other bike I have had, plus I have found a lot of other people with the same issue.

Also, my calculated spring rate for that bike weight is .68 kg/mm and the stock is something like a .90kg/mm - though I'm not sure where I found that info...

why do you feel its too stiff? just a harsh ride?? have you considered a softer seat?

shaking? what shaking are you talking about?

i would start by measuring the dynamic sag on the rear shock. google "measure rear shock sag" and it should give you good ideas. you probably want about 30mm of "rider sag"

the stock shock is definitely not 0.9kg/mm

So, based on my internet research I know I need to get a .70 mm/kg spring and adjustable rear shock, but I'd like to know if anyone has had experience with any brand and what has worked well...

It's not the seat. I have to stand on the footpegs at high speed to avoid the shaking. This has never happened with any other bike I have had, plus I have found a lot of other people with the same issue.

Also, my calculated spring rate for that bike weight is .68 kg/mm and the stock is something like a .90kg/mm - though I'm not sure where I found that info...

I can't find what the stock spring rate is, I don't know what website gave me the info before. Do you know where I'd find that info? I have already measured the sag and it's fine. Give me some credit. I've come to the conclusion that I need to change out the rear shock based on 10 years of riding experience, and the advice of a mechanic I trust who will give me a much better deal if I do all the research...

I wear glasses. Bike shakes so much that I can't see if I'm at past 85mph.

shaking? what shaking are you talking about?

i would start by measuring the dynamic sag on the rear shock. google "measure rear shock sag" and it should give you good ideas. you probably want about 30mm of "rider sag"

the stock shock is definitely not 0.9kg/mm

, plus I have found a lot of other people with the same issue.

As in a lot of 300s with lightweight riders?

I find it EXTREMELY hard to believe that a properly functioning bike is giving you these problems. I would take it in to get looked at.

Yup. As in lightweight riders with too stiff a spring on the rear suspension. Shockingly, motorcycles are not designed for women.

For anyone else who IS having this problem, I have made some calls and found out the following:

For $903 plus the cost of outsourced adapter rings, Ohlins can provide an adjustable rear shock with a .70 spring (made for 250 but wil fit 300)

For $925, Penske shocks will custom make one with the correct spring based on your weight. (based on the 250)

For I found one that *might* fit from Progressive suspension for $349, but have not heard back from them about the adjustability of this suspension model.

I have not ordered anything yet, so anyone who has tried one of these brands or others on this bike, please let me know how it's working out...

As in a lot of 300s with lightweight riders?

I find it EXTREMELY hard to believe that a properly functioning bike is giving you these problems. I would take it in to get looked at.

Michelle, I find this odd. In my experience, the only people that the 250 is set up properly for is lightweight riders like us.

Even on the highest preload setting, my pregen (with a shock from an 08-12 250R) has never been so jarring that I can't see right. I also wear glasses, and I am 135 lbs. I was under the impression that the 300 shock had different damping/valving than the 250R shock, but was otherwise the same. I'm hoping someone who knows more than myself pipes in here though.

Just curious, where are you getting your info that 0.7 kg/mm is the right value?

I'll do some hunting and see if anything pops up.

I have had 3 250s. All fine. when they redesigned the 300, they changed the shock. Also, 110lbs is substantially different on a bike than 135lbs.

see this thread: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=122159

As for the spring rate, several different website calculators have given me the rate of .68 based on my weight and the weight of the bike. .70 is the smallest one they manufacture.

Michelle, I find this odd. In my experience, the only people that the 250 is set up properly for is lightweight riders like us.

Even on the highest preload setting, my pregen (with a shock from an 08-12 250R) has never been so jarring that I can't see right. I also wear glasses, and I am 135 lbs. I was under the impression that the 300 shock had different damping/valving than the 250R shock, but was otherwise the same. I'm hoping someone who knows more than myself pipes in here though.

Just curious, where are you getting your info that 0.7 kg/mm is the right value?

I'll do some hunting and see if anything pops up.

see this thread: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=122159

Yes, I've read that. I've even posted in that. :lol:

All I'm getting from that thread is that Kawasaki changed the damping of the shock by changing the valving. This doesn't make the shock harder to compress, it makes the shock compress at a slower rate. So your issue seems to be with the damping, not the spring rate. That explains why you are able to get proper static sag numbers, yet it rides like a dump truck.

I would go double check those spring numbers for the OEM shocks before assuming you need a different spring. Since you know that 250 shocks work for you without issue, you might be able to just get an aftermarket shock (with adjustable damping) for the 250 and use the supplied spring.

10 years of experience doesn't mean anything in my opinion. no offense, really.

you say you checked sag, and that its... correct! but that you ... still want to respring?...

so when i ask what kind of shaking you are talking about, you don't give any detail even though you come here asking advice. we race these bikes, some even on stock suspension. there is more that goes into the handling of a bike than an... already correctly sprung rear shock. so... let me try this again





what kind of shaking are you talking about?

If I buy the shock new, they supply the correct spring free, so there's no reason not to...and of course I'd have them calculated by the company. At this point, just trying to find someone who had had some experience with specific shocks and can recommend one.

Yes, I've read that. I've even posted in that. :lol:

All I'm getting from that thread is that Kawasaki changed the damping of the shock by changing the valving. This doesn't make the shock harder to compress, it makes the shock compress at a slower rate. So your issue seems to be with the damping, not the spring rate. That explains why you are able to get proper static sag numbers, yet it rides like a dump truck.

I would go double check those spring numbers before assuming you need a different spring. Since you know that 250 shocks work for you without issue, you might be able to just get an aftermarket shock (with adjustable damping) for the 250 and use the supplied spring.

I didn't give you more detail because it's already been determined by a mechanic whom I trust that I need to change out the shock and spring. Just trying to find out which one is best or good enough and go from there. None of your condescension has been helpful.

I think saying that it shakes at high speeds so much that my glasses vibrate, I can't see, and I have to stand on the footpegs to correct this is pretty specific, even superfluous information already though. I can add that it sucks compared to my 1999 fzr600, which does not have any kind of custom suspension and was not envisioned for a 110lb rider. 10 years of experience doesn't mean anything in my opinion. no offense, really.

you say you checked sag, and that its... correct! but that you ... still want to respring?...

so when i ask what kind of shaking you are talking about, you don't give any detail even though you come here asking advice. we race these bikes, some even on stock suspension. there is more that goes into the handling of a bike than an... already correctly sprung rear shock. so... let me try this again





what kind of shaking are you talking about?

I think saying that it shakes at high speeds so much that my glasses vibrate, I can't see, and I have to stand on the footpegs to correct this is pretty specific, even superfluous information already though

It's just that this symptom doesn't sound like it is due to a properly functioning shock that's just a little stiff. It really sounds like something else is going on with your bike to cause it to vibrate as bad as you are describing, that changing out the rear shock will not necessarily fix.

All of the help in this thread is meant as just that, help, and you're of course free to take what you feel is useful and ignore the rest. But from this side of the screen, it sounds like I'd at least get an opinion from another mechanic, and/or ride someone else's 300 to either confirm that they all work that way for you, or if it's something that isn't working correctly on your particular bike. I'd do that before throwing any money at a new rear shock to try and fix the problem.

Ping Yakaru, who just bought a new 300 after having a 250 for awhile; rumor is she weighs 105 lbs soaking wet.

None of your condescension has been helpful.


OK! cool. i'm glad you can recognize attitude when you see it. maybe reread your posts now.

i'm glad you know a mechanic. i know lots of mechanics too!

i agree, the fzr 600 is pretty crappy on the rear shock department. my 94 has a slightly worse shock than your 99, but still. craptastic! don't you love how easy it is to bottom everything out in a turn?

so anyway back to talking about vibration. do you know what a hard tail bike is? its a bike with no rear suspension. maybe you've had a chance to ride one in your 10 years of experience?

i love some of the features they added to the 300, like the rubber mount forward engine mounts. they really cut down on the engine vibration. you can still feel chain clunks very easily which is nice but the engine vibration is kept down pretty far.

the wheels are nice looking too, don't you agree? i love the new design and they even cut some weight on it if i remember right? they are pretty easy to balance i think.

Thanks Alex for the ideas. I've gotten both the dealer and an independent mechanic (Tyler) to take a look at it - although I don't know anyone else who owns one. The dealer, however, has said that he's heard some similar complaints from the few women he knows who have purchased one AND gotten it through the break-in period. Please let me know if you've had any experience with any of the shocks listed.

Also, I'd love to hear from any small women who own an EX300 and have ridden it through the break in period about handling, suspension, shaking, etc. Or, really anyone who has ridden the bike - as I think it rides stiffer in general - regardless of weight. And yeah, I'll ask Yakaru, though it sounds like she may not be through break in yet. It does sort of ok at low speeds/rpms.

It's just that this symptom doesn't sound like it is due to a properly functioning shock that's just a little stiff. It really sounds like something else is going on with your bike to cause it to vibrate as bad as you are describing, that changing out the rear shock will not necessarily fix.

All of the help in this thread is meant as just that, help, and you're of course free to take what you feel is useful and ignore the rest. But from this side of the screen, it sounds like I'd at least get an opinion from another mechanic, and/or ride someone else's 300 to either confirm that they all work that way for you, or if it's something that isn't working correctly on your particular bike. I'd do that before throwing any money at a new rear shock to try and fix the problem.

Ping Yakaru, who just bought a new 300 after having a 250 for awhile; rumor is she weighs 105 lbs soaking wet.

The break-in period isn't going to change anything at all with suspension behavior, and it doesn't change the vibration characteristics of the bike either. The more I hear, the more it sounds like you're getting some bad info from the people you've been working with for help so far.

Which bay area dealership are you working with? Heck - you're 30 minutes from our place, come on by any weekend and I'd be happy to let you know if your 300 feels any different from ours.

Hey there, I haven't had time to read this thread yet but I will say that I have gone ... uh... fast enough :redface: several times and never had vibration issues, and I'm under 100 lbs. I mean, the 300 is buzzy since it runs in the high RPMs and is light weight, but it's a very fast/small amount of vibration and nothing that would make me worry. I'll read through it when I get a few and see if I can give any more thoughts :)

The break-in period isn't going to change anything at all with suspension behavior, and it doesn't change the vibration characteristics of the bike either. The more I hear, the more it sounds like you're getting some bad info from the people you've been working with for help so far.

Which bay area dealership are you working with? Heck - you're 30 minutes from our place, come on by any weekend and I'd be happy to let you know if your 300 feels any different from ours.

The break in period matters because the issue only becomes a problem at high speeds/rpms.

Are you a dealership or do you have a 300?

Are you for real?

Hey there, I haven't had time to read this thread yet but I will say that I have gone ... uh... fast enough :redface: several times and never had vibration issues, and I'm under 100 lbs. I mean, the 300 is buzzy since it runs in the high RPMs and is light weight, but it's a very fast/small amount of vibration and nothing that would make me worry. I'll read through it when I get a few and see if I can give any more thoughts :)

Yakaru, just to confirm, you've brought it over 11,000 rpms/90mph with minimal/mild shaking? If so, that is VERY helpful input...

Yakaru, just to confirm, you've brought it over 11,000 rpms/90mph with minimal/mild shaking? If so, that is VERY helpful input...

Correct. Buzzy, but no shaking.

Are you for real?

Just on a phone and only saw your last bike listed on the small screen. Not intentional. Just going off the reply itself.

Correct. Buzzy, but no shaking.

Huh. Thanks. Not looking forward to trying to prove to the dealership that there may be something wrong with mine at illegally high speeds.

so... maybe i'll try this again.


care to elaborate on the shaking you are describing? what is shaking? the entire bike is vibrating? there is a steady thumping? is it speed or rpm dependant? both?

Has a Kawasaki dealership looked at your bike for this problem?

It would be nice to rule out easy fixes that are covered under warranty.



I think we all agree there are some awesome suspension set-ups you can put on a 300...but it just may not be necessary.

Good questions - it sure does sound like something out of round. An unbalanced tire, a wheel mounted without a spacer, a chain that is either very tight or very loose, a missing engine mounting bolt, etc. Highspeed vibration to knock your glasses around at speed isn't a characteristic of this bike, whether the rider is 80 pounds or 180 pounds.

I think you are looking in the wrong place. Try tapered roller steering head bearings.

$45 and they cure the steering problems inherent on these EX250 based bikes. By 1000 miles my 300 bearings were shot. The whole bike got loose. I did a thread here somewhere on it.

If you are hell bent on a shock, I recommend searching for my thread about fitting a GSXR 600/750 rear shock, get the correct spring and have it valved for your weight.

You mentioned you measured sag, and it is correct. This would mean that the spring is fine for you. Like I said, I think you are going in the wrong direction searching for a solution.

I also dropped in fork emulators by Race Tech, but I'm 200 lbs. Still, with adjustments for you they will help the front end tremendously. I don't think that is your problem either.

Good questions - it sure does sound like something out of round. An unbalanced tire, a wheel mounted without a spacer, a chain that is either very tight or very loose, a missing engine mounting bolt, etc. Highspeed vibration to knock your glasses around at speed isn't a characteristic of this bike, whether the rider is 80 pounds or 180 pounds.

I'm going in tomorrow to have some cosmetic stuff replaced (kill switch and fluid cover scuffed when I got it). I will ask them to check all that out as well.

Shock that you don't need.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=119304

RE: vibration; here are some quotes from the various reviews of the 300 found online:

http://www.motorcycledaily.com/2012/09/md-first-ride-2013-kawasaki-ninja-300-part-two/

That’s because this motor may represent the most improvement in a consumer product since the horse and carriage lost the horse. The new motor not only makes a lot more power (about a 20 percent bump), it’s also way smoother (thanks to the rubber mounting and improved counterbalancer, I assume) and much more flexible and easy to use. Gone is the revving to 7000 rpm to get rolling or the endless shifting to keep the little zinger on the boil. Gone is the wheezing at high speeds when you try to make a pass in sixth gear. Say “so long” to lugging the motor or bouncing around on the suspension as you downshift mid-corner so you don’t fall too far behind your buddies.

The motor is good enough that the 300 can be ridden like a regular motorcycle. Riding with fast traffic on divided freeways is no longer a frantic, nerve-wracking affair. With a GPS-verified speed of at least 103 mph (stupid headwind!) and enough grunt to pass cars at 80-plus mph in top gear, you’re king of the road, if you’re an aggressive sort. If you’re not, you can cruise along in sixth gear at the speed limit and see a mere 7000 rpm on the tach. It’s almost relaxing if you’re accustomed to the omnipresent weedwhacker exhaust note of the 250R.

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/157/14371/Motorcycle-Article/2013-Kawasaki-Ninja-300-First-Ride.aspx

While we praise the Ninja 300’s new found power, EFI and slipper clutch, one our favorite characteristics of the bike is its reduction of vibration. New rubber front engine mounts result in a dramatic improvement of the 250’s buzzy nature. It may be unheralded compared to the other changes, but eliminates our biggest complaint in the previous bike. It also gives the 300 a solid, more stable feel.

http://www.motorcycle.com/manufacturer/kawasaki/2013-kawasaki-ninja-300-review-91429.html

Riding old and new back-to-back also reveals another trait: the new bike is noticeably smoother than its predecessor thanks to rubber engine mounts keeping vibes at bay. The 250 used solid mounts, resulting in numb hands at higher rpm as the engine buzzed away.

This is what your bike should feel like.

Bearings

Just do them.


http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=119551

I'm going in tomorrow to have some cosmetic stuff replaced

Which dealer? East Bay Motorsports?

Bearings

Just do them.


http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=119551

stem bearings have about as much relation to the OPs problems as the rear shock.

I'm going in tomorrow to have some cosmetic stuff replaced (kill switch and fluid cover scuffed when I got it). I will ask them to check all that out as well.

So the bike has been down. The problem is NOT a properly functioning stock shock. Have the entire bike looked over by a Kawasaki dealer.
Find the real problem, before you start throwing money around.

Jim - I'm finding it hard to understand why steering-head bearings in a bike gently ridden and not out of break-in would cause the vibration as described. No argument that the bearings might be a good idea to upgrade at some point, but it's unlikely that's the root cause (or even a related cause) of what's going on with this bike.

So the bike has been down.

not so fast. bikes can get slight cosmetic damage sitting in a show room getting moved around. doesn't mean it was down. but certainly not a good sign.

So the bike has been down. The problem is NOT a properly functioning stock shock. Have the entire bike looked over by a Kawasaki dealer.
Find the real problem, before you start throwing money around.

It has not been down. Top of the bike was scratched in transit to the dealer. Tiny little scratches on the TOP from something being stacked on top. Thus, they are replacing the scratched parts. Sigh. I feel like every explanation I give just leads to more misunderstanding about what I have said on here. I know you guys are trying to help, but please don't assume things I haven't said. It's very frustrating!

The bike was new? 0 miles?

Alex,

They get hammered from simple road defects, and because they are ball bearings, the point of contact is tiny, it gets flat, they get looser and hit harder, getting flatter again and can easily cause a wobble at high speeds. My tapered ones got loose after a few hundred miles, and I could feel it at everything over walking speeds. Normal to need to snug them as the grease and bearing settles in. I packed them like our MX bikes so they were jammed full. LOL.

They might just be loose too, but they are garbage and replacing them tightens up the whole chassie. If they are loose, they are finished IMO anyway.

I don't get why someone would drop a negative rating on that suggestion, and don't really care either. I only know cause the notification things advised me to look.

:thumbup:

Yes, I read the reviews before I bought the bike. I'm not convinced it's not the shock, since the test rider was not 110lbs, and the spring rate is not correct for me. I will have the dealer look at the bike tomorrow, but I definitely read reviews before I make large purchases.

This is why I am so, so bummed about this bike not working out for me. I though I'd sell the FZR, but have kept it for longer trips, anything beyond around town because of the shaking. RE: vibration;

This is what your bike should feel like.

I don't see the mileage listed??? I'd be checking for a thrown wheel weight too.

:thumbup:

Yes, I read the reviews before I bought the bike. I'm not convinced it's not the shock, since the test rider was not 110lbs, and the spring rate is not correct for me. I will have the dealer look at the bike tomorrow, but I definitely read reviews before I make large purchases.

This is why I am so, so bummed about this bike not working out for me. I though I'd sell the FZR, but have kept it for longer trips, anything beyond around town because of the shaking.

Just as a query:
Is the vibration pure up-down or is it more of a general one? I may be dumb (disclosure: I've never done anything with shocks other than get my preload adjusted) but I'd expect a shock would have a much more dramatic up/down impact than left right.

The bike was new? 0 miles?

3 miles I think. They did test ride the thing...

It has not been down. Top of the bike was scratched in transit to the dealer. Tiny little scratches on the TOP from something being stacked on top. Thus, they are replacing the scratched parts. Sigh. I feel like every explanation I give just leads to more misunderstanding about what I have said on here. I know you guys are trying to help, but please don't assume things I haven't said. It's very frustrating!

when you don't answer the questions we ask about the problem you are having it makes it difficult to try to help you. maybe if you would... just... tell us more about the shaking problem you are having... instead of telling us how we are wrong and don't know what we are talking about...

Just as a query:
Is the vibration pure up-down or is it more of a general one? I may be dumb (disclosure: I've never done anything with shocks other than get my preload adjusted) but I'd expect a shock would have a much more dramatic up/down impact than left right.

I guess it's more up/down since standing on the pegs instead of sitting on the seat lessens it dramatically. I'm also wondering if there is a difference in highway quality where you are. The roads here are bumpy and choppy already - on any bike. So, a stiff shock might make it that much more noticeable...

when you don't answer the questions we ask about the problem you are having it makes it difficult to try to help you. maybe if you would... just... tell us more about the shaking problem you are having... instead of telling us how we are wrong and don't know what we are talking about...

Just to clarify, I'm not answering you specifically because you're being kind of mean to me. It's specific to you - and I won't answer the mean response you have to this remark, nor any further "helpful critiques" you try to give me. I am grateful for the advice everyone else has given on this thread, and will bring that input to the dealership with me tomorrow.

I don't see the mileage listed??? I'd be checking for a thrown wheel weight too.

:thumbup:

I bought it at 2 or 3 miles. It's a little over 500 now.

Is it rpm related; If you get going 85 and pull the clutch in, does it still happen? Can you replicate it in first gear at high rpm's?

Is it only over bumps or also on smooth road; Does it feel just as harsh over a speed bump as it does on a freeway?

Also this might sound really dumb, but do you have a bulge in either of your tires and/or are your rims out of true? I've had this happen on a mountain bike before...

What was the sag measurement?

And the steering head bearings could simply be loose on a new bike. My front brake caliper was finger tight.

I can't keep up. Now it is 500 miles? Rough roads? Check the bearings. If you grab the front brake and rock the bike back & forth and have someone put a finger at the steering head to triple clamp contact area to feel for any movement. If you feel a click that's it.

I'm not convinced it's not the shock, since the test rider was not 110lbs, and the spring rate is not correct for me.

This is wrong. It's not mean to tell you it's wrong. It's correct to tell you it's wrong. What you do with that information is up to you. I have to tell you, it is frustrating to those who really are trying to help you understand what's wrong with your new bike. What you are experiencing is not normal, and your diagnosis is off-base.

OK, let me get this right. just trying to fully understand the situation.

expert 10 year rider... seeks help... acts condescending when someone who knows nothing about OP suggests that they are barking up the wrong tree... OP mad when that someone gets condescending back, even though they are still trying to identify what the actual problem is. numerous others agree OP is barking up the wrong tree... now OP refuses further help, even refusing to actually clarify the problem. because the people trying to help the OP are... "kind of mean".

i'm sure you're successful in many facets of life. have fun with your dealer.

This is wrong. It's not mean to tell you it's wrong. It's correct to tell you it's wrong. What you do with that information is up to you. I have to tell you, it is frustrating to those who really are trying to help you understand what's wrong with your new bike. What you are experiencing is not normal, and your diagnosis is off-base.

I'm inclined to agree with Alex here; I'm even lighter and have no issues. Have you had someone heavier ride the bike? Or maybe ridden 'with weights' (maybe some heavy items in a backpack for a test)?

Are you for real?

Ok, I LMAOed at that Alex! Epic response!

Sigh. I feel like every explanation I give just leads to more misunderstanding about what I have said on here. I know you guys are trying to help, but please don't assume things I haven't said. It's very frustrating!

Honey, you need to relax. Seriously. Don't get so worked up.

Just to clarify, I'm not answering you specifically because you're being kind of mean to me. It's specific to you - and I won't answer the mean response you have to this remark, nor any further "helpful critiques" you try to give me. I am grateful for the advice everyone else has given on this thread, and will bring that input to the dealership with me tomorrow.

Alex knows his ****. You just gotta get past his goofy, Alex-cynicism. There are only a handful of folks on this board whose advice I trust based on their knowledge and experience. He is one of them. You may be just a bit sensitive and defensive.

I have to tell you, it is frustrating to those who really are trying to help you understand what's wrong with your new bike. What you are experiencing is not normal, and your diagnosis is off-base.

:whathesaid:

And don't beg and plead for women to comment on this thread when you shoot down every bit of helpful advice you are given. Just go to your mechanic friend unless you want to learn from the good advice from the folks here who are offering it freely.

alex-cynicism! a phrase coined just for me! i feel so special! :D

:lol: WTF and WOW all at the same time :lol:

Have you tried gaining 20-30lbs to see if that helps?

I weigh a bit under 110 lbs. and I haven't noticed any vibration issues with the 300 in the nearly 3k miles I've put on it so far. Definitely a much smoother ride than my old pre-gen 250. I'm not sure what is up with your bike, but I highly doubt it's the suspension.

I trust the dealership about as far as I can throw them because most good mechanics are worth more then what a dealership pays and don't stick around long, so the ones that are left are simply wrench turners.

I'm not a qualified mechanic, I don't weight 110lbs, and I don't own a 300 but I believe those things to be irrelevant to understanding a motorcycle. What I do have is many years of racing experience most at the world and national levels(I'm not your local AFM fast guy, Im much faster :) ) and I ride a 250 more then most and much harder then most so I understand its strength and flaws better then the average rider.

Ill make you the same offer I made to Jiggles when he had his handling problem with his Ninja 1000. You can ride your bike out to my shop in Livermore and we can go for a quick ride(both of us) so I can visually see the problem your dealing with. If you feel comfortable with it(most wouldn't and i understand) ill even ride the bike myself to confirm wether its a weight problem or something more serious. Afterwards if I think its a quick fix ill ether try something or give you my opinion and you can do with it what you want. Oh yeah ill even do all this for FREE since I just like helping out other riders understand their bike just a little bit more. They say their is no such thing as a free lunch and yet here it is :)

Don't mind my earlier post, like many other I have a sarcastic sense of humor and couldn't resist the temptation seeing how this thread got so heated so quickly.

Don't mind my earlier post, like many other I have a sarcastic sense of humor and couldn't resist the temptation seeing how this thread got so heated so quickly.
FONN-0uoTHI

I've never heard, or experienced such a tale as this shaking... Hope you get it figured out though, don't see how standing on the pegs corrects it either
Make ya say hmmmm

Most generous offer by rojoracing53... I'd jump on it if I wasn't 20,000 miles away... :thumbup:

hey jason, if i come by your shop, will you teach me how to race start? LOL

Weird thread for sure. :eek:

Anyway, I had another thought on it overnight. My forks were packing on multiple high speed compressions. Could that be what she was describing?

I dropped in the Emulators and expected to be taking the forks apart over & over again to adjust them but they work really well now. All I did was cut the preload spacers to match the height of the valves, stock oil, stock height, no holes drilled out in the damper rod. I'm guessing the valving is holding them up in the stroke enough to deal with those multiple hits now. It got firmer and doesn't bottom constantly on single hits or in braking.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=125693

hey jason, if i come by your shop, will you teach me how to race start? LOL

No but you have a more local expert on the subject of starts named Jon :)

The break in period matters because the issue only becomes a problem at high speeds/rpms.

Are you a dealership or do you have a 300?

Are you for real?


This had me :drinkingwater:


Sometimes, just sometimes, the mind can make that little shake and bump seem 100x bigger than what it truly appears to be: A simple bump & shake. But hey, what do I know. Just get an Ohlins rearshock and be done with it. I hear it builds confidence and sorts all kinds of issues. :pound:

No but you have a more local expert on the subject of starts named Jon :)

bwahahahhahaha

this thread..... WINNER!

No but you have a more local expert on the subject of starts named Jon :)

BWahahahaha! I just got http://www.socalmoto.org/forum/images/smilies/owned.gif



http://www.socalmoto.org/forum/images/smilies/asshole.gif
http://www.socalmoto.org/forum/images/smilies/fawkdance.gif
http://www.socalmoto.org/forum/images/smilies/notooth.gif

accident-prone wna swap 300s? I'll warn you tho, the black ones are really fast

I hope to hear what the final result of this is...whether there is really a shock issue, another issue causing the "shaking", or is it just a relatively stiff suspension with a 110 pound rider? I weigh 190, have the rear shock set in position 2 and I think it is relatively stiff. Which I think is a good thing for this bike. But I come from a dual sport background. If I weighed 110 and was in the lightest position (1) would the relative stiffness be the same or close? I can see how, at speed, she feels the ride is a little too firm.....her complaint is only at high speed, which could be difficult for her Kawi service dept. to duplicate..........

I hope to hear what the final result of this is...whether there is really a shock issue, another issue causing the "shaking", or is it just a relatively stiff suspension with a 110 pound rider? I weigh 190, have the rear shock set in position 2 and I think it is relatively stiff. Which I think is a good thing for this bike. But I come from a dual sport background. If I weighed 110 and was in the lightest position (1) would the relative stiffness be the same or close? I can see how, at speed, she feels the ride is a little too firm.....her complaint is only at high speed, which could be difficult for her Kawi service dept. to duplicate..........

high speed shaking so violent you need to stand on the pegs means there is something wrong with a wheel.

high speed shaking so violent you need to stand on the pegs means there is something wrong with a wheel.

Either that or shaking the bike and riding on bumpy roads then blaming something's wrong with the rear shock ain't the answer. :D

high speed shaking so violent you need to stand on the pegs means there is something wrong with a wheel.

The wheel and the shock?:rolleyes:

The wheel and the shock?:rolleyes:

no. just the wheel.

no. just the wheel.

Do you mean the shock AND the spring?

high speed shaking so violent you need to stand on the pegs means there is something wrong with a wheel.

Alex, did she say " shaking so violent she needed to stand on the pegs"? If so, and it is the wheel...Kawi service should be able to figure that out at lower speeds...or even static?!

Alex, did she say " shaking so violent she needed to stand on the pegs"? If so, and it is the wheel...Kawi service should be able to figure that out at lower speeds...or even static?!






http://wac.450f.edgecastcdn.net/80450F/club937.com/files/2011/12/thats-what-she-said.jpg


I think saying that it shakes at high speeds so much that my glasses vibrate, I can't see, and I have to stand on the footpegs to correct this is pretty specific,

I'm wondering where she's experiencing this as well. Truth be told, there is a short section of 880 going right past Oakland, which feels like driving on the surface of the moon. On any sportbike, once you get to that section, it really does feel like something is wrong with the bike. It rattles around and vibrates to the point where you wonder if you threw a wheel weight or the engine dropped a cylinder. But - it's less than a mile long, so once through you realize it was the roadway and not the vehicle. If one only used that part of the road to test suspension, every bike would feel terrible except for the most compliant or sacked out/soft suspension. I dial back the BMW bike from Sport to Comfort just for this section, and toggle it back afterwards, and it's probably the only place ever that I even go to that trouble.

I'm wondering where she's experiencing this as well. Truth be told, there is a short section of 880 going right past Oakland, which feels like driving on the surface of the moon. On any sportbike, once you get to that section, it really does feel like something is wrong with the bike. It rattles around and vibrates to the point where you wonder if you threw a wheel weight or the engine dropped a cylinder. But - it's less than a mile long, so once through you realize it was the roadway and not the vehicle. If one only used that part of the road to test suspension, every bike would feel terrible except for the most compliant or sacked out/soft suspension. I dial back the BMW bike from Sport to Comfort just for this section, and toggle it back afterwards, and it's probably the only place ever that I even go to that trouble.

her 99 fzr 600's rear shock is more likely than not at close to 0 damping by now. so it would make sense that it's a much nicer, more pleasant experience driving over those moon craters

Shock/spring currently on eebay for fiddy doll hairs.

Yes. Thank you for your confidence in what I was saying.

Dealer checked it out top to bottom. Had the lightest guy at the shop test it - he's 135lbs and didn't have a problem. With gear it's probably the perfect bike for a rider of that size. Found out the stock rear shock is for someone who is 142lbs and they don't make a softer spring for it. The ride was a little smoother than it has been riding out to the dealership, and I realize I was riding with 10 or 12lbs on my back, bringing me up to 120lbs. It still was super stiff, but not nearly as bad. Amazing that that little weight makes such a big difference on these little bikes. I did some more reading on it at the shop, and indeed, all the good reviews are from riders who found the older 250 shock bottomed out - I found the older 250 shock to be everything I needed.

So, as I said previously, I need an aftermarket shock for the newer 250. If anyone knows of one used, please let me know - as the only one that is aftermarket and under $900 (progressive) is a linear move to what I have...as are the stock newer 250 shocks on ebay. The older ones bolt differently and I'm pretty sure won't fit.


I hope to hear what the final result of this is...whether there is really a shock issue, another issue causing the "shaking", or is it just a relatively stiff suspension with a 110 pound rider? I weigh 190, have the rear shock set in position 2 and I think it is relatively stiff. Which I think is a good thing for this bike. But I come from a dual sport background. If I weighed 110 and was in the lightest position (1) would the relative stiffness be the same or close? I can see how, at speed, she feels the ride is a little too firm.....her complaint is only at high speed, which could be difficult for her Kawi service dept. to duplicate..........

...so the issue is still the damping. Not the spring.

But anyhow, all 250 and 300 shocks are physically interchangeable. They all bolt up to the same mounts. Just fyi.

...so the issue is still the damping. Not the spring.

But anyhow, all 250 and 300 shocks are physically interchangeable. They all bolt up to the same mounts. Just fyi.

It just doesn't make sense not to get the right spring if I'm getting something that will adjust the dampening. Not sure why that needs to be an issue.

Are you completely sure that an older 250 shock is the same dimensions as the newer 250 shock? I know the newer 250 and the 300 are interchangeable, but it looks like the mounting area is different on the older 250s. It would make things easier if this is true, but I don't want to order something that won't work.

Since adding weight definitely makes it ride a bit better, I think I have my answer. However, if you come across a used adjustable rear shock for a newer 250, I will strap on some sandbags and run over there to pick it up. How about that?

And thanks for the offer. :)

I trust the dealership about as far as I can throw them because most good mechanics are worth more then what a dealership pays and don't stick around long, so the ones that are left are simply wrench turners.

I'm not a qualified mechanic, I don't weight 110lbs, and I don't own a 300 but I believe those things to be irrelevant to understanding a motorcycle. What I do have is many years of racing experience most at the world and national levels(I'm not your local AFM fast guy, Im much faster :) ) and I ride a 250 more then most and much harder then most so I understand its strength and flaws better then the average rider.

Ill make you the same offer I made to Jiggles when he had his handling problem with his Ninja 1000. You can ride your bike out to my shop in Livermore and we can go for a quick ride(both of us) so I can visually see the problem your dealing with. If you feel comfortable with it(most wouldn't and i understand) ill even ride the bike myself to confirm wether its a weight problem or something more serious. Afterwards if I think its a quick fix ill ether try something or give you my opinion and you can do with it what you want. Oh yeah ill even do all this for FREE since I just like helping out other riders understand their bike just a little bit more. They say their is no such thing as a free lunch and yet here it is :)

Don't mind my earlier post, like many other I have a sarcastic sense of humor and couldn't resist the temptation seeing how this thread got so heated so quickly.

A-P, do you bother to read all the replies? :cool:

A-P, do you bother to read all the replies? :cool:


You mean the picture with no link that I couldn't find on Ebay? Yeah, I saw that.

No. :thumbup:

I'm sorry I thought I could get help on here. I'm out.No. :thumbup:

There is plenty of it that you choose to ignore. Bye! :cool:

I'm sorry I thought I could get help on here. I'm out.

No problem. /removed