hello everyone,

Has anyone removed the air switching valve and (for California models) purge valve/carbon canister successfully?

I'd removed both and installed blank off plate/carb caps when I race prepped my 250R but I note that these items are connected to the ECU on the 300 and am a bit wary of doing so. It'd be nice to clean up the extra plumbing though but not if it causes the ECU to do strange things.

many thanks in advance,
Robert

:bump:

I started to have a look in the (long) DFI section of the service manual. It seems fairly evident that removing either or both switches will throw an error code once the ECU discovers that they're disconnected...

I believe that these are solenoid switches and the service manual does offer a DC resistance range for each switch:

Purge Valve (carbon canister, CAL): 30 - 34 ohms

Air Switching Valve: 20 - 24 ohms

I'm currently toying with the idea of substituting fixed resistors in place of the valves though I have not yet tested with them disconnected yet...

Also not certain what causes these valves to close or subsequently whether a lack of change in whatever condition warrants the valves to activate will cause another error code or DFI malfunctioning.

In any event, I'm leaving everything connected for now and will continue pursuing this once I have the Area P / Fuel Moto installed.

best,
Robert

Hey bro do a search of this and other forums. There is a thread out there with pics and info. I did this mod on my bike. You just need to put a resister in each circuit so the computer thinks they are still connected. The resisters you can get at radio shack for less than a dollar. If you cant find the thread than let me know and I will make a diy for this. It took me about 5 mins to solder in the resisters. I cut the connectors off and soldered in the resisters and used heat shrink and taper to seal the ends up. The thread that is out there shows you how to use spade connecters and make a plug so you dont have to cut the connectors off. Works like a charm and no Check engine light

I may have .read your post to fast. I dont have a Ca model. I was talking about the block off plate on the head and the associated connectors. Not sure if that is what you were talking about now.

stupid question, is that air switching valve the air kleen system?

hi everyone,

Sorry for the late reply; I was away at a track day Friday and MWGP round over the weekend...

felo and Jaybo - All models have got the air switching valve that connects to the valve cover that we'd like to install a block-off plate over ;-) This is part of the KLEEN air system. The `air switching valve' is a component.

CAL models have an additional evaporative emissions control (carbon canister) which involves the purge valve.

I was discussing both systems in my original post :)

I'm going to test the resistor substitution idea but would like to measure voltage/current before building a permanent solution...

Searching the threads yielded some answers from the Ninja 250 FI, which we never received in California. Very cool and thanks!

-Robert

hi everyone,

Sorry for the late reply; I was away at a track day Friday and MWGP round over the weekend...

felo and Jaybo - All models have got the air switching valve that connects to the valve cover that we'd like to install a block-off plate over ;-) This is part of the KLEEN air system. The `air switching valve' is a component.

CAL models have an additional evaporative emissions control (carbon canister) which involves the purge valve.

I was discussing both systems in my original post :)

I'm going to test the resistor substitution idea but would like to measure voltage/current before building a permanent solution...

Searching the threads yielded some answers from the Ninja 250 FI, which we never received in California. Very cool and thanks!

-Robert
sorry for my late responce
well i did remove the kleen air system, and did the block of plate on my ninja 300, i did remove all of the piping and stuff but i let the air switching valve conected because if you disconected it throws a CEL, so yeah i leave it conected even tho it doesnt do nothing
i did this on a non-cali model , so i dont know how much it differs to yours...

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showpost.php?p=190944&postcount=21
this is what i did on mine, not my post but you get the idea
why dont you do what people do to remove the air kleen system on the new gens on cali?

original thread http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9948

I have the same problem. I need to remove the KLEEN to install Autotune. I'm worried about an engine light. I don't think it would affect performance but it would really annoy me.

Autotune. really annoy me.

80ZrUI7RNfI

80ZrUI7RNfI

YUM lol

Bump.... :)

anything further on this?
I was also curious about removing the evap system
just to clear clutter really

Capped off the kleen Air today but like someone mentioned I left
the electric valve connected so as to not
throw a CEL

Curious now about the Evap just to reduce clutter in that area. Would be easier to work the plugs etc.

Thanks

I've got more updates forthcoming, contingent on further testing on my bike. So far 3k miles later, things are looking quite good :)

Since my 300 is my primary transportation that I'm still making payments on, I opted for long-term measurement and testing to ensure that real electrical/thermal limits aren't exceeded... these switches actually draw significant current and managing that safely is not trivial.

Bob

I've got more updates forthcoming, contingent on further testing on my bike. So far 3k miles later, things are looking quite good :)

Since my 300 is my primary transportation that I'm still making payments on, I opted for long-term measurement and testing to ensure that real electrical/thermal limits aren't exceeded... these switches actually draw significant current and managing that safely is not trivial.

Bob

So you pulled the Evap system out & just needed to shunt the switches with a resistor type plug in like we do on the O2 sensors here?

Not worried about testing here just want to know that it is possible to remove system
shunt the plug/switch & not have a CEL turn on :)

Thanks

I've got more updates forthcoming, contingent on further testing on my bike. So far 3k miles later, things are looking quite good :)

Since my 300 is my primary transportation that I'm still making payments on, I opted for long-term measurement and testing to ensure that real electrical/thermal limits aren't exceeded... these switches actually draw significant current and managing that safely is not trivial.

Bob

Old thread revival. I removed the air valve and replaced it with a 1/2W 22Ohm resistor.

However, I noticed today that the resistor had actually melted the electric tape around it and was "sweating" a bit.

Anyone found a solution here? I could try experimenting with a higher resistance, and see if it doesn't trip the ECU, other option I guess would be some really beefy restitor (hard to find?).

Old thread revival. I removed the air valve and replaced it with a 1/2W 22Ohm resistor.

However, I noticed today that the resistor had actually melted the electric tape around it and was "sweating" a bit.

Anyone found a solution here? I could try experimenting with a higher resistance, and see if it doesn't trip the ECU, other option I guess would be some really beefy restitor (hard to find?).

Air valve is operated by a 14-15 voltage, depending on your charging system. To calculate the current you'd use Ohm's law Current = voltage/resistance. Since we have the voltage and the resistance, we can calculate the current, 14v/220ohm =.064amp. Now to calculate power you'd need need to use voltage * current, that would be 14volts * .064amp = .896 watts. So the reason your resistor is getting hot is because its half the size it should be. You'd need at least 1 watt 220 ohm resistor.

Air valve is operated by a 14-15 voltage, depending on your charging system. To calculate the current you'd use Ohm's law Current = voltage/resistance. Since we have the voltage and the resistance, we can calculate the current, 14v/220ohm =.064amp. Now to calculate power you'd need need to use voltage * current, that would be 14volts * .064amp = .896 watts. So the reason your resistor is getting hot is because its half the size it should be. You'd need at least 1 watt 220 ohm resistor.

Actually, the resistor is 22 Ohm so it's close to 10W

However, saw someone mentioning that measuring resistance over the valve is not representative because it's an inductive load - any input on if I could actually get away with a higher resistance to lower the current through it?

I don't see why you couldn't get away with 1k ohm .25watt resistor, it would lower the current by a lot and won't heat up.

I don't see why you couldn't get away with 1k ohm .25watt resistor, it would lower the current by a lot and won't hit up.

Alright, I was just being lazy, I'll try this and post the results, I see a lot of people use 10W resistors but getting away with using a 0.25-0.5W resistor would be awesome indeed.

Alright, I was just being lazy, I'll try this and post the results, I see a lot of people use 10W resistors but getting away with using a 0.25-0.5W resistor would be awesome indeed.

1K Ohm resistor works like a charm!

1K Ohm resistor works like a charm!

Glad to hear it worked out for you.

hi all, appreciative of the work that's been done so far, just wanted to follow up and see if the 1K ohm resister is still the way to go? has anyone gone so far as to get cycleterminal to make a connector?

tia,
parker