Just curious what you all use for motor oil and oil filters when you do your oil changes... you DO change your oil, don't you? :D

I use Shell Rotella T 5W-40 full synthetic oil and a WIX filter. I waited till I had 1000 miles before switching to a full synthetic, but I had done 4 changes prior to that with a 10W-40 conventional oil during my break in period.

What is it you use and why?

oooh this is going to sound horrible but...

What ever the shop puts in? I have taken Tyke for all of her changes/checkups to a shop/dealership...

Right now I'm using Castrol 10w-40 and a K&N filter. After this oil change I'll be going to Castrol Sythetic 10w-40 and a K&N filter.

I've taken apart many engines and the ones with Castrol seem to be the best to me. I'm sold, but in reality it's personal preference. As long as you use a good name brand oil and change it often you'll be fine.

Don't know what the previous owner was feeding my '01 but it is now on a diet of Shell Rotella T 5W-40 full synthetic oil and a NAPA Gold filter.

Corey,

Is that a regular car oil you're using or a motorcycle specific one?

Motorcycle specific. :) Specially formulated for all our special motorcyle inside parts. Yay!!

I'm using Repsol 4T Semi-Syn 10w40. Switched to semi-syn at 3500. I have 11k+ on the bike and it runs great.

filter?

filter?

Fram from Walmart. I used to use the kawi one, but it's more than twice as much. I change my oil every 2k after I hit 3500 miles.

Have you read the questionable reports on Fram filters?

Have you read the questionable reports on Fram filters?

Yup! Read it many times. Never had a single problem with any of my cars. My 03 4runner has 115k+ and that runs great. I'm using mobil 1 5w30 on that. 87gti16v with 180k+ was running great till I sold it. On my crossfire I only use mercedes filter though.

cool... as long as you're aware. :)

I used the Napa filter because i get discound :D and I use the Kawasaki 4 cycle oil....10w-40

Just use the Kawasaki filter & Kawi oil. Now that its had the first few changes, next it will get the same stuff I put in the R1, Golden Spectro :thumbup:

I also use the Shell Rotella T 5W-40 full synthetic oil and a EMGO filter. It's kinda nice that our bikes take the same filter as used on so many other bikes making it easier to find. I usually buy 4 filters at a time, that'll usually do me for a year or so.

I use Mobil 1 10W-40 (switched at 3500 miles) and Fram filter.

Currently using Castrol 10w-40 synthetic (Wal-Mart was out of stock for Mobile 1) and a Fram filter.

Next oil change I plan on using Shell Rotella 5w-40 synthetic and the same Fram filter.

Sean - you might want to rethink the Fram filter - do a search on it here and see what comes up...

Currently have Kawasaki 10W40 and the Kawasaki filtre. Next oil change will be Shell Rotella-T Full Synthetic and a WIX Filtre. They supply the necessary O rings, Kawa makes you buy them separately.

I am currently running what ever the shop put in at the service recently! :p

I like to have registered Kawasaki mechanics service it when it is due (just so the maintanence record for the bike is good) but can't remember what oil/filter I last used. LOL.

the previous owner had in it when I bought it. I have put 1K miles or so on it since I got it. When I get to the point that I will have to change it, I will probably go syn (Shell rotello?) and Fram filters or kawi. I have heard myself and read several warnings on here about FRam filters. I have been using Fram for years and have never had a oil related failure in any of my cars. I have never understood why there is so much bad press on Fram, although I am sure there is things going on that I don't know (perish tha thought :eek:).
With the internet today, one thing bad happens and it spreads really quick. Of course, that can be a good thing (the world is coming to an end :eek:) or a bad thing (Michael Phelps :ganja:)

As for doing it myself, I would but right now I don't have maintenance stands, but hopefully will be getting them soon.

NB.

you don't need stands to do an oil change. just prop the kickstand up on a 2x4 to get the bike more vertical and lie down next to the bike to access the drain plug and oil filter bolt.

2x4 more vertical and lie down next to the bike to access the drain plug.

Dam, the things I see when I been drinking........ I gotta stay outta the rum :)

:cheers:

just saying... he doesn't need to put off an oil change just because he has no stands. they aren't needed for it.

you don't need stands to do an oil change. just prop the kickstand up on a 2x4 to get the bike more vertical and lie down next to the bike to access the drain plug and oil filter bolt.

adapt,improvise and overcome,

thanks

NB

just be careful and not bump the bike too hard. it's sitting pretty close to vertical with the 2x4 under the kick stand and can easily tip to the right if you bump it.

Kelly, are you buying your filters locally? or ordering online

just another quick word on the filters - I used to intern at a company that made the filter papers that fram purchased (though I don't know in which specific filters they were used)- they had all sorts of quality control issues - after hearing and reading things about them online, and my own experiences at that company, that is why I won't use them anymore

I buy mine locally from an autoparts store down the street. It's amazing that they carry WIX filters. If you are looking for WIX, NAPA Gold filters are the same thing, branded for NAPA.

heheehe poor 08's no center stands... :D

Thanks, Kelly. I'll make a run to my nearest napa tomorrow.

Need to change my oil this weekend. :)

be sure to get their "Gold" line of filters. The silver and others are made by other manufactures.

heheehe poor 08's no center stands... :D

...says the girl that doesn't even do her own changes anyway. :lol:

be sure to get their "Gold" line of filters. The silver and others are made by other manufactures.

Will do. I would go today but it's raining.:mad::(

lol... better not let the people on the east coast hear you complaining about rain. :D

haven't changed my oil yet. i am at 5xx. i plan on doing them myself though.

question.... the new gasket for the drain plug... how do you get them? are they included with the oil filter? or do you have to buy them separately? thanks.

Filters that have the o-rings come with the small one for the stem and the larger one for the cover plate thingy. The crush gasket/washer for the drain plug is from the dealer or on-line suppliers.

most aftermarket filters will include the 2 o rings needed. If you use a Kawasaki filter, you will need to purchase them separately. (WIX... hint, hint) :D

OG- Thingy??

OG- Thingy??

Yea that Kawasaki technical term, you know - :boink:

Thingy is indeed a technical term. I use it all the time to refer to parts and stuff.

I use Amsoil 10W-40 Full Synthetic and a K&N filter.

i'm getting ready to do the first oil change on my 2003 EX ... (that didn't sound right) :rolleyes:
my first oil change since OWNING my bike...i'm going to use Rotella SAE 5w 40, with a 'saki filter i got with the bike. not sure whats in there now.

i can't remember exactly where i got this from, but noted it while i was researching the oil change that there are alternate o-rings that could be used:

Hyundai part #21513-23001 and Nissan part #11026-01M02 in lieu of OEM part #671 & #670.

anyone ever hear/read/use? :high5:

aloha

do you know when the oil was changed last? most times a no-no, but if it hasn't been too long, perhaps you can just reuse the o-rings that are in there now.

think he did last change at 1k miles...am just above 3.5k now

I'm currently using Motul 5100 4T Synthetic oil with a K&N oil filter. Seems to do its job!

think he did last change at 1k miles...am just above 3.5k now

how's about you just go buy a filter from NAPA and then the next time you change the oil, you can use the kawi filter and just reuse the o-rings then. At least you know the o-rings are relatively new. I change mine at every filter change and they still look new when I've done that. of course it only had a couple of hundred miles on it when I've changed them out. :D

ummmmmmm....

OK! :)

going to try and find the supplies today. thanks for all the help. at what mileage is it ok to switch to synthetic? is there any rule for motorcycles?

People recommend a couple of thousand miles before switching. I swiched at 1000 miles and have had no problems.

just another quick word on the filters - I used to intern at a company that made the filter papers that fram purchased (though I don't know in which specific filters they were used)- they had all sorts of quality control issues - after hearing and reading things about them online, and my own experiences at that company, that is why I won't use them anymore

Does not come as a surprise. I know that Yanmar Diesel will void your warranty if you use a Fram filtre. NAPA and WIX are OK by Yanmar.

I'm using regular Rotella T right now, but am switching to Rotella T full synthetic (if spring ever comes to the Northeast.) I use a K&N 401 filter. How absurd is it that Kawi makes you buy parts separately for a simple oil change?! :der:

I switched to Rotella synth yesterday. I was already using Rotella normal before. I wish I could go ride if it wasn't rainy. :rolleyes: wtf. 3 days it's been wet.

I also managed to burn my thumb on my header. That was nice. :rolleyes:

Since we are on the subject. While at the local dealer, I noticed the price tag on the oil, was around $8-10 and up/quart. Didn't check the filters. Where does everybody get there parts, I have noticed NAPA mentioned a time or two. And how much is it running, on average.

nb

Since we are on the subject. While at the local dealer, I noticed the price tag on the oil, was around $8-10 and up/quart. Didn't check the filters. Where does everybody get there parts, I have noticed NAPA mentioned a time or two. And how much is it running, on average.

nb

well, i went to checkers yesterday and the only conventional motorcycle oil i saw was the valvoline. it was going for $4 a quart iirc.

going down to clean my chain and change my oil in a bit.

Since we are on the subject. While at the local dealer, I noticed the price tag on the oil, was around $8-10 and up/quart. Didn't check the filters. Where does everybody get there parts, I have noticed NAPA mentioned a time or two. And how much is it running, on average.

nb

NB,

I use automotive oil in my bike based on this.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_oils_should_NOT_be_used%3F

I am presently running Shell Rotella T synthetic oil based on this, too.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Why_Synthetic_Oil%3F

some other good oil info...
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Engine_Oil

the really confusing thing is why do they make motorcycle oil if it is ok to use automotive oil? i did a quick google and i guess there seems to be debate on this topic.

the really confusing thing is why do they make motorcycle oil if it is ok to use automotive oil? i did a quick google and i guess there seems to be debate on this topic.

Not all car oils are OK for bikes with wet clutches.

I believe it's the car oils with energy conserving additives or something of that sort.

why do they make MC specific HID kits, when car kits will do the job and charge you more than 50% of a car kit??? Profit!

There are automotive oils that they say to stay away from in those links, but every person needs to make up their own mind. This was part of the reason for this thread, so we could discuss these issues. :)

I use motorcycle specific air in my tires. It's better and specially formulated for round motorcycle tire designs.


True story.

I believe you. Those black bikes need all the help they can get. :D

i can't remember exactly where i got this from, but noted it while i was researching the oil change that there are alternate o-rings that could be used:

Hyundai part #21513-23001 and Nissan part #11026-01M02 in lieu of OEM part #671 & #670.



I still have the stock o-rings on the bike after a few changes. Long as there not hard/cut or square...... I feel they are still good.

this morning, i used the valvoline motorcycle oil 10w 40 and the kawasaki oil filter. checkers only had fram and from this thread, i decided not to get it. so, i went to the dealer and got their filter and o-rings. i don't remember, but the o-rings were like $10 or something. what a rip-off.

worst comes to worst, next time i will just order some filters/o-rings online.

where can i go to dispose the oil? i bought the oil eater box thingy. it has been so long since i changed my own oil i don't remember where to go.

edit: thanks kim.

you should be able to get rid of the oil at any parts store

Not all car oils are OK for bikes with wet clutches.

I believe it's the car oils with energy conserving additives or something of that sort.

Check this out:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10346 :thumbup:

Gary,

On Oahu, don't they still use H power? If so, just dispose of the box with the rest of the trash.

i thought it was just the big island, but i googled it and yeah, we have h-power. hmm.. ok, i will just throw it in the trash can then. that is easy. :) thanks.

You guys can just toss used oil and other fluids in the trash?

luckkyyyy

You guys can just toss used oil and other fluids in the trash?

luckkyyyy


I use to dump it out back. Wife said go green, so I put it out with the garbage :thumbup:

this morning, i used the valvoline motorcycle oil 10w 40 and the kawasaki oil filter. checkers only had fram and from this thread, i decided not to get it. so, i went to the dealer and got their filter and o-rings. i don't remember, but the o-rings were like $10 or something. what a rip-off.

worst comes to worst, next time i will just order some filters/o-rings online.

where can i go to dispose the oil? i bought the oil eater box thingy. it has been so long since i changed my own oil i don't remember where to go.

edit: thanks kim.

SW, I am sort of partial to WIX #24941 OR NAPA Gold #PS4941, or Car Quest#CFI89941. All three are made by WIX and come with all the necessary O rings.

thanks. i was in a rush yesterday. i will go to either napa or car quest instead for the next time.

might want to call ahead and see if they have them in stock. If not, they can usually have it in within a day or 2. I usually buy 2 at a time because of this and it's nice not having to go run out to get a filter for the next change. Buy the oil by the gallon and you can do 2 oil changes before needing to buy oil again. I'm all about laziness. :D

good idea. i will look for the gallon bottles. i guess i will change oil again in 1000-1500 miles and switch to synthetics.

btw. i felt bad, so i went down to checkers to turn in my used oil eater box. they told me that it is ok to just throw those away in the trash. so, i guess it is true.

You guys can just toss used oil and other fluids in the trash?

luckkyyyy


i believe those islands with 'h-power', (basically where trash is burned to produce power), have these containers where waste oil is collected, container is trashed, and burned later...

i THINK thats how it works there. we don't have any h-power facilities here on kauai, although i do believe certain retailers provide waste oil collection. (not sure if they're mandated by law)...otherwise...i just take what i have to the local land-fill and they'll take it from me in whatever container i bring it to them in. (so far anyway) :smile-injar:

where can i go to dispose the oil?

Around here you hold onto the sales slip from the store you purchased your new oil at and bring the used oil back to them. If they sell it, they have to take back the used oil you're replacing.

I usually get my K&N filters from Dennis Kirk or Motorcycle Superstore online. I order from them often enough that I just add a filter to my shopping cart automatically every time I place an order. That way I always have a new filter around when I need it.

Actually, even the Ninja 250 manual states that you can use automotive oil although I wouldn't want to try it with a wet clutch that has enough problems shifting with motorcycle-specific formulations. The clutch really needs a thicker oil like Rotella.

Actually, even the Ninja 250 manual states that you can use automotive oil although I wouldn't want to try it with a wet clutch that has enough problems shifting with motorcycle-specific formulations. The clutch really needs a thicker oil like Rotella.

See the oil info at:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10346

NB,

I use automotive oil in my bike based on this.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_oils_should_NOT_be_used%3F

I am presently running Shell Rotella T synthetic oil based on this, too.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Why_Synthetic_Oil%3F

some other good oil info...
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Engine_Oil

Thanks Kelly, I will use this when it comes time. I just rolled over 3K this weekend. The oil so far has been changed according to the manual, any reason to stay with the manual or is waiting to till it rolls over 7500 too late?

Later

nb

Chris,

If I were you, I'd consider doing a change now and switching to the Rotella T synthetic oil. Frequent oil changes during the break in period is always a good idea, in any vehicle.

Many manufactures will list mileage intervals that in their opinion get the job done and in doing so, list intervals that looks good from a maintenance cost perspective. I feel a $10 oil change is cheap insurance to help engine longevity.

Here in Belfast it is pretty simple. I collect the oil in a 3Gal can--oil changes from the boat, the MC, and two cages, and take it to the harbour. The tugboats are more than happy to take the used oil and use it on their boats--diluted with fuel oil. Their massive engines have no problem burning the stuff. I have been told that since we have an oil burning furnace that I can dump used oil into my oil tank and that diluted in fuel oil, the furnace would burn it with no problem. I think that before I decide to try that, I will consult a furnace expert. Now if this "expert" gives me a heads up, my disposal problem will be solved. Three gallons diluted in 150 Gal. sounds like it could work.

Might want to check to see if the heavy metals in the used oil would be a problem being burned.

In my 06' : Shell Rotella T 5W-40 full Synthetic and Napa Gold filter.

but I use Synthetic oil in all my vehicles ... never liked Fram filters though.




Yea that Kawasaki technical term, you know - :boink:


Thingy ... :D ... I call the handle/fin on the back that ...

I've changed twice with the Kawi filter and Redline 10W-40 full synthetic. If I knew NAPA filters came with the o-rings, I'd've bought there instead (will next time!).

What's the benefit of a 5W-40 instead of the Kawasaki recommended 10-40? Wouldn't mind having more options when I buy...

5w-40 will flow better at lower ambient startup temps.

changed oil & filter yesterday, made the switch to synthetic Rotella 5w - 40 with a kawasaki filter the previous owner gave me. didn't change o-rings this time (didn't have any actually..), and all seems to have gone alright.

Using Castrol 10w40 at first with Fram filters, but now using Castrol with K&N filters. After this thread I'm going to definitely check out this Rotella synthetic oil once I get closer to 3,500 miles.

I'll be using Rotella T conventional 15w40 with K&N filters during break-in and probably switch to Rotella T synthetic 5w40 after.

I have also tried Castrol Motorcycle 10w40 in the 06 and it runs just fine... but new bike deserves extra attention :D

QUESTIONS:

How do you change to full synthetic/Part synthetic? Any loops I have to jump through or any special procedures.

If I do change to synthetic, do you think the kawi/k&n filters will be sufficient?

Also, the dealership gave me crap about the crush washer. Thoughts about that? They said there is a certain metal inside of it that is only good for one "crush" but I do not buy that **** at all. (I previously did get the crush washer, and saw on the receipt they charged me $5.00 for that POS.) I know that the FRAMs from walmart come with a crush washer and thinking about getting that.

changing to synthetic or part synthetic takes no special procedure, just change the oil. I would not suggest changing to synthetic until at least 1000 miles.

Personally, I would use any of the filters listed in the oil change DIY except Fram. :p

no oil filters that I know of come with crush washers... you are mixing them up the o-rings for the filters.

Crush washers are indeed a one time use item. $5 for on is ridiculous. Get new crush washers from any auto parts store. Just take the old one with you and match it up with what's available there.

Changed the oil a while back ago just over 100mi. using kawi 10-40 oil and a carquest oil filter (came with all new o-rings). Didn't see any metal shavings and the oil was still a nice amber color.
Plan to change again around 400mi. before the bike goes in for it's first maintenance service where they'll give me another oil change for free.

changing to Rotella in 200 miles and one of the filters listed on the "other" site.

changing to Rotella in 200 miles and one of the filters listed on the "other" site.
filters are listed on this site, too. :p

hehe. just so used to the faq page.
and this I just found.

link ;) (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9813)

lol... Alex gets a rash every time someone mentions that site and there he is linking to it. :lol:

:D

Alex gets a rash every time someone mentions that site

True, but I found a great cream for that... :p

True, but I found a great cream for that... :p

ew... I'm not even going to ask. :eek:

One of the mechanic here advice that not to use fully shythetic on bike as it's good for the engine but not the gear. any comment? (I've changed to fully shythetic at 2000km anyway). BTW, how offen you change the oil for :-
1) Fully synthetic - ???KM or miles
2) Semi synthetic - ??? KM or miles
3) water base/non synthetic - ??? km or miles.

I've not had any clutch slippage problems since switching to a full synthetic at 1000 miles and now have a little over 2500. As far as gear changes, my shifting seems to have gotten smoother, though I have no statistical/analytical data to prove less pressure is needed by my foot to engage my next gear. ;)

Oil change frequency is a matter of debate and left mostly up to the owner. As long as you change it as often as recommended by the maintenance schedule, you should do no harm the engine and changing it more frequently might prove beneficial. I plan to change my oil every 3-5k miles now that my motor is fully broken in and I'm running a full synthetic.

I run Fram filter and Mobil 1 Synt got it all at AutoZone. I changed to Synth at 3000 miles and will change it again this winter or at 6000 miles. FYI I have 4 used filters for sale and 7 quarts of used oil.

U use the Kawi filter and Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W-40 motorcycle oil

:bump:

Actually, even the Ninja 250 manual states that you can use automotive oil although I wouldn't want to try it with a wet clutch that has enough problems shifting with motorcycle-specific formulations. The clutch really needs a thicker oil like Rotella.

I've got automotive Quaker State 10w-40 and a WIX filter at the moment, based on the manual and a few other sites I saw online... I figured that worst case it'll be in there for about 500 miles until I switch to Rotella-T, and that's not going to cause any lasting harm.

Anecdotally, I've noticed improved cold starting and easier shifting since I got off the Kawi oil. The cold starts (under 50* F) may be more related to break in than oil, but I'm sure the shifting is oil related as it improved immediately - I very, very rarely catch the gear 1.5 false neutral anymore and I used to grab it all the time even with a hard kick upward on shift.

i just use the kawi filter with synthetic aimsoil 10w-40
its what my local shop keeps in stock

its always funny though to hear them ask "you are aware this oil is 10 dollars a bottle right...?"
who the hell makes a big deal out of spending 20 dollars for an oil change? hell it costs 60 or so to change the oil in my small car, so when i see 20 dollars for an oil change i feel like doing an Irish jig!

Right now I'm using Castrol 10w-40 and a K&N filter.

I am using the same thing.

its always funny though to hear them ask "you are aware this oil is 10 dollars a bottle right...?" who the hell makes a big deal out of spending 20 dollars for an oil change? hell it costs 60 or so to change the oil in my small car, so when i see 20 dollars for an oil change i feel like doing an Irish jig!

I got that the last time I went and got oil for the Spyder. Of course I have to buy 4 quarts for that. Costs me about $75 to do an oil and filter change in the Spyder and about $35 in the Ninja.

I'm currently running Mobil 1 synth with a K&N filter. I'm planning on switching to Rotella on the next change.

When switching to synth, the only thing you have to worry about is switching too soon.

The issue has to do with the clutch plates, not the gears or engine. If the clutch plates are not worn in enough when you switch to synth, then the plates won't catch when you release the clutch. This happens because the molecules in synth oil are more "uniform and slippery"... If you're on a dry clutch bike, then I'd switch at the first change. My 250 got switched at about 3500 miles.

Still in the break in period. Oil changes at 300 and 600. Using 10W-40 Quaker State (cheapest name brand at Wal-Mart) and Fram filters (O'reilly's hasn't been terribly reliable about having the Wix). I figure with oil changes at very short intervals, neither the oil nor the filter have much time to break down.

The next change will be at about 1200, and it should be my last with conventional oil...and I was thinking about a small dose of Restore to make sure I have a good seal around the rings.

At 2000 or so, I'll go full synthetic (will check out Rotella) and I finally got a couple of Wix filters.

I've been reading through here and I was curious about something. Are you guys using standard automotive oil or motorcycle specific oil?? I use motorcycle specific oil as I hear that automotive oil had detergents in it that is not good for motorcycles. I have heard this from more than one person.

I've been using regular car oil, but with a caveat.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_oils_should_NOT_be_used%3F

I've been using regular car oil, but with a caveat.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_oils_should_NOT_be_used%3F

Ah yes, the deal with having a wet clutch and using that energy conserving stuff... the Spyder is exactly the same way. I'm going to just stick with the MC oil, I feel safer that way.... even though that automotive oil is cheaper.

Any issues with me using a part synthetic during my break-in period?? I bought the 5w40 part synthetic for my first oil change.

Any issues with me using a part synthetic during my break-in period??

It's my understanding that the issue with synthetic is that your clutch plates may take longer to wear in. This could mean loss of power early on. Even with synthetic, the plates should EVENTUALLY wear in. Dino oil is usually used during break in to make sure they wear together in a timely manner.

I have, however, heard rumors that all Ducatis, even wet clutches, ship with synthetic. So, I don't know how true any of this is...

The best idea is to read up on oil and make a best guess...

You should be okay, but my recommendation would be to use a full conventional oil until the break in period is over. There is no telling how much synthetic is in that blend and it might cause you some ring seating problems. Now (the break in period) is the time you want to be sure your engine rings seat well against the cylinder walls.

Lots of high load (on/off throttle) applications (rev at least to 9k), lots of heat cycles (short trips) and frequent oil/filter changes. :)

You should be okay, but my recommendation would be to use a full conventional oil until the break in period is over. There is no telling how much synthetic is in that blend and it might cause you some ring seating problems. Now (the break in period) is the time you want to be sure your engine rings seat well against the cylinder walls.

Lots of high load (on/off throttle) applications (rev at least to 9k), lots of heat cycles (short trips) and frequent oil/filter changes. :)

Okie. Thanks. I'll just take it back or maybe just hold onto it for one of the next oil changes. At the time I was in a hurry and that's what they had sitting out that was easiest to get to.

yeah, save it for the first oil change after the break in period is over. The conventional should be rather cheap to pick up, so it's not like it's a great financial drain, especially if you use regular car oil. ;)

yeah, save it for the first oil change after the break in period is over. The conventional should be rather cheap to pick up, so it's not like it's a great financial drain, especially if you use regular car oil. ;)

Yeah, no problem. I'll stop by Auto Zone on the way home and pick some up. I don't want to take any chances. I'll save the part syth oil until like my 4th oil change.... I plan on doing it every 400 - 500 miles until I hit around 3K. I think by the time I get up close to 2K it won't hurt to use part synthetic then go to full synthetic after 3K. What do you think?

Yeah, no problem. I'll stop by Auto Zone on the way home and pick some up. I don't want to take any chances. I'll save the part syth oil until like my 4th oil change.... I plan on doing it every 400 - 500 miles until I hit around 3K. I think by the time I get up close to 2K it won't hurt to use part synthetic then go to full synthetic after 3K. What do you think?
Yep, I went to a full synthetic at 1K and have had no problems, so you using the blend anytime after 1K sounds like a good plan.

Excellent. Thanks.

Yeah, no problem. I'll stop by Auto Zone on the way home and pick some up. I don't want to take any chances. I'll save the part syth oil until like my 4th oil change.... I plan on doing it every 400 - 500 miles until I hit around 3K. I think by the time I get up close to 2K it won't hurt to use part synthetic then go to full synthetic after 3K. What do you think?

I think that you're OK by 1K.

At 1000 miles, assuming an average speed of 50MPH, you've ridden 20 hours or 1200 minutes. Assuming you average 6000 RPMs for that 1200 minutes, each piston has cycled 7.2 million times at 1000 miles.

The above is just for arguments sake, and you could vary a few million either way depending on how softly you break her in, but if the rings haven't seated by 1000 miles, they're not going to. ;)

Just saying.

But if the train was going 35 mph when it left heading due west 28 minutes ago, when would it pass the Albuquerque-bound express?

:rotflmao:

7.2 million times

This is why break in is arguably more important for the clutch plates then the engine. 90% of the engine break in is already done by the engine manufacturer and the mechanic at the bike shop. Both test the engine with high RPM's before they sell the bike. Gotta make sure it starts up :)

Just sayin :P

I've not had any clutch slippage problems since switching to a full synthetic at 1000 miles and now have a little over 2500. As far as gear changes, my shifting seems to have gotten smoother, though I have no statistical/analytical data to prove less pressure is needed by my foot to engage my next gear. ;)


yes, this was the first thing i noticed when i switched over to shell synthetic 5w-40 (with 401 K&N oil filter) about 200 miles ago.

bump

Kawi OEM Filter with Motul 5100 15W-50. Figure the manual says that 10W-XX is good until -10C and 20W-XX is good until 0C so I figured I don't run under freezing so the extra bit of 15W-50 will give me enough come spring but the 50 will assure optimal performance in the summer heat. Lol, it get to be 35C(95F) max here in summer time so I have 15 degrees of breathing room instead of 5.

Currently running Shell Rotella 5w 40. I'm switching back to the Mobil 1, though. Seems like my bike ran a lot better on it. Shifting was a lot smoother too.

I just changed to Rotella 15w-40, but haven't had a chance to ride on it yet - though I'm intending to move to 5w40 synthetic once it warms up again. Wix filters.

Castrol Syntec - oddly enough, it's the one that says it's designed for European high performance vehicles. It just happened to be on sale :)

K&N oil filter.

Worked well so far, I'll probably do the same next time.

mobile 1 synth and fram filter.

synthetic shell rotella and wix filter.

Expensive amsoil and a K&N Filter

mobile 1 synth and fram filter.

Be careful with Fram.

I use Rotella synthetic and Purolator oil filters (ML16812 for pre-gen 250s) are great, and the prices are even better. Purolator makes a solid filter. But it doesn't really matter, most important thing is changing your oil regularly.

NAPA (WIX) and Rotella T Synthetic 5W40

That sounds scarily risky. Is it okay to do it with just a kick stand? Just make sure it doesnt get stuck in any crevices? PM the answer to my question to me please!

you can do an oil/filter change with the bike on it's kickstand. a rear stand makes it a little bit easier, but certainly not necessary.

When I first got my 250R I changed the oil at 50 miles.
I used Valvoline 10w-40 motorcycle oil and a WIX #24941 filter.
http://valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/motorcycle-atv-oil/13

Using the same brand oil and filter, I changed the oil again at 100 miles, 300 miles, 600 miles, and 1000 miles.

At 1500 miles I changed to Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 and I still used the WIX filter.
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html

I have spent countless hours studying up on mototcycle oil. I was so skeptical about using diesel truck oil at first. After I spent some time looking in to it, the choice was very clear. Shell Rotella T all the way !!

They actually have their own Shell Rotella T motorcycle forum. Check it out.
http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=9&page=1

Oil is critical on these motors. I burned up a motor on the track when I was using dinosaur oil and didn't know about the oil system problems in these motors. Since then I have used Shell Rotella T synthetic oil and religiously keep it right at the full mark. I dribble in a few ounces whenever needed. I have done many dozen track days and races since the switch and haven't lost a single motor.

I am sold on Shell Rotella t synthetic. I use whatever filter: Fram, K&N, Emgo. They all look like they come from the same factory.

Rotella Synthetic and Fram. I'm at ~1200 miles and I've never noticed the oil level drop. Knock on wood :D

I need to do an oil change in a few days and I was wondering what everyone runs.

Also what kind of oil filter do you use and do you change it every time?

P.S. I tried doing a search for similar threads but 'oil' is too short.

Valvoline 10w40 4-stroke motorcycle oil. Kawasaki filter I got from my dealer. (14 dollar filter!!!)

I've heard of people running from 5w30 to 20w50 in their 88-07 ninjettes.

I'm not really sure what the factory recommendations are for the newer gens.

http://www.sensmeieroil.com/upload/images/Shell%20syn%205-40.png

http://www.knfilters.com/images/l/KN-401.jpg

and a crush washer, then you're good!

Rotella 5w-40 fullsynthetic. Fram filter - though some on here poo poo them. :)

I change the filter everytime.

Do you really notice a difference switching to synthetic?

And thats diesel engine oil?

Mobile One Full Synthetic Motorcyle Oil

Yes, big difference with synthetic. Bike now runs like a 1000.

Valvoline 20W50 4 stroke motorcycle oil and Wix #24941 filter. I change mine every 1000-1500 miles. The O'reilly Auto Parts by me always has the filter in stock.

Here's another thread sort of related to this subject...

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22318

/moved to new-gen tech

Do you really notice a difference switching to synthetic?

And thats diesel engine oil?

Oil is oil, it's the viscosity (5W-40) that matters. Big rigs happen to use 40 weight oil and so do our bikes.

I'm not sure if I noticed the difference or not. Primarily, I use synthetic oil in my car and bike so I don't have to change it as often. :D

Oil is oil, it's the viscosity (5W-40) that matters. Big rigs happen to use 40 weight oil and so do our bikes.

I'm not sure if I noticed the difference or not. Primarily, I use synthetic oil in my car and bike so I don't have to change it as often. :D

So there is no difference in regular oil and synthetic except the time between changes?

Why does some oil say for motorcycles? If oil is oil should it work for everything?

I use whatever brand the kawi dealer sells, and Kawi oil filters. Pretty reasonable suprisingly.

Lots of info here, check it out
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13033


To quote myself, this is what I posted in that thread.

When I first got my 250R I changed the oil at 50 miles.
I used Valvoline 10w-40 motorcycle oil and a WIX #24941 filter.
http://valvoline.com/products/consum...cle-atv-oil/13

Using the same brand oil and filter, I changed the oil again at 100 miles, 300 miles, 600 miles, and 1000 miles.

At 1500 miles I changed to Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 and I still used the WIX filter.
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...t6_detail.html

I have spent countless hours studying up on mototcycle oil. I was so skeptical about using diesel truck oil at first. After I spent some time looking in to it, the choice was very clear. Shell Rotella T all the way !!

They actually have their own Shell Rotella T motorcycle forum. Check it out.
http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthre...Board=9&page=1

i use putoline 10w/40 semi synth £3.45Litre and gen kwak oil filter £4.20
i will change oil and filter every 1500miles ..

Start here:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/4062/543020.html?1267398133
continue here:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/4062/542108.html?1267414404

The problem with just any oil is the friction modifiers in the newest version of car oils may decrease clutch life.

I use Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w-40 Motorcycle oil.

As mentioned in one of the "stickies":

http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

shell rotella and wix filter.

That's the short version, in the first link I gave is a link to the full article, took a while to read but I consider it time well spent.

OK different authors but same good info:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Valvoline 10W-40 Full Synthetic Engine Armour & Kawasaki oil filter, but will be switching to the K&N oil filter in my next oil change. Going to start changing oil and filter every 5000kms.

A question about the filter, when you guys change it do you guys change both O-rings or the big one only?

I highly recommend using a high quality synthetic oil. I use Shell Rotella T synthetic.

250 Ninja motors have a design flaw that can cause a loss of oil pressure when run hard. I don't know if this has been corrected in the new motors or not but I doubt it.

I have seen many 250s with spun bearings. I've even lost a motor myself before I got anal about oil. I was running dinosaur oil and letting the oil level get down to the lower level mark.

Since burning up my (my girlfriends) motor I switched to Shell Rotella T and have maintained the oil level at the full mark at all times. Since then I have ridden many dozens of days at the track with no engine failures.

So there is no difference in regular oil and synthetic except the time between changes?

My meaning is that they are interchangable.

Why does some oil say for motorcycles? If oil is oil should it work for everything?

The only difference between motorcycle oil and standard automotive oil is $5/quart. :rolleyes:

The only difference between motorcycle oil and standard automotive oil is $5/quart. :rolleyes:


Not true. Automotive engine oils contain friction modifiers and some contain moly. This will effect the clutch performance in wet clutch applications. You are much better off using motorcycle specific oil. Even though it costs more than automotive oil, you only need to buy 2 quarts. The way I look at it, it's cheaper to spend a few more bucks on the correct oil than replacing the clutch prematurely.

Motul 5100 Semi-synthetic 10w-40, with emgo filter, no complains so far...:)

The only difference between motorcycle oil and standard automotive oil is $5/quart. :rolleyes:

You need to read the articles linked

Royal Purple 10w-40, synthetic since break-in and WIX filters. No complaints thusfar.

I have used the "Green Blood" Kawasaki-branded synthetic (Motul Product) and now I use Rotella T Full synthetic. I ahve always used Fram oil filters because they are widely available and not expensive.

I have used the "Green Blood" Kawasaki-branded synthetic (Motul Product) and now I use Rotella T Full synthetic. I ahve always used Fram oil filters because they are widely available and not expensive.

FWIW, several members have noted flaws in the Fram filters for our bikes that were rather concerning.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10780

You need to read the articles linked

I have. However, it seems to be all theory. Until someone actually states that they had to have their clutch replaced due to not using a specific type of oil, I remain skeptical that it is the oil rather than abuse or neglect. I place motorcycle oils in the same bin as filling your tires up with nitrogen.

In any case, the Shell Rotella listed above doesn't have those friction modifers, so it's win-win. :thumbup:

FWIW, several members have noted flaws in the Fram filters that were rather concerning.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10780

I am finding lots of negative reports about auto "pot-type" filters, not so much cartridge filters like for motorcycles. The possibility is that there is a difference. For instance, WIX oil filters for cars are billed as too restictive with oil flow-through but the motorcycle filters do not suffer such stigma, and many here use them.

I have. However, it seems to be all theory. Until someone actually states that they had to have their clutch replaced due to not using a specific type of oil, I remain skeptical that it is the oil rather than abuse or neglect. I place motorcycle oils in the same bin as filling your tires up with nitrogen.

In any case, the Shell Rotella listed above doesn't have those friction modifers, so it's win-win. :thumbup:

I had to replace the clutch in my Suzi DR350s because previous owner used car oil. It would slip in the upper gears. When I removed the friction plates they were the same thickness as the new plates I put in. I believe they were saturated with that friction modifier stuff and could not grip as they should. Now it grabs solid.
Heard many times that the Rotella T syn is great bike oil and lower cost than the Amsoil I use.
Nitrogen is better for stabilizing the pressure in car tires that go from -20 to 100 deg. Not sure if it makes any diff in bike tires.

I had to replace the clutch in my Suzi DR350s because previous owner used car oil. It would slip in the upper gears. When I removed the friction plates they were the same thickness as the new plates I put in. I believe they were saturated with that friction modifier stuff and could not grip as they should. Now it grabs solid.
Heard many times that the Rotella T syn is great bike oil and lower cost than the Amsoil I use.
Nitrogen is better for stabilizing the pressure in car tires that go from -20 to 100 deg. Not sure if it makes any diff in bike tires.


the air we breath is 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen, oxygen escapes from your tires 3-4 times faster than nitrogen. having 95% nitrogen just keep the air in your tires 3-4 times longer. Less having to fill up often. Then again, how often do you pump your tires?

the air we breath is 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen, oxygen escapes from your tires 3-4 times faster than nitrogen. having 95% nitrogen just keep the air in your tires 3-4 times longer. Less having to fill up often. Then again, how often do you pump your tires?

The real advantage to nitrogen is that the pressure fluctuates less due to temperature changes than standard 'air'. If you're actually losing air from your tires you have a leak, no matter what 'air' is in them...

shell rotella and wix filter.

+1 :thumbup:

I use nothing but amsoil and K&N filters.

Since I switched to amsoil I never seen that "fog" in the sight lens ever after a ride, which makes me beleive it's way better than dinosaur oil.

What is that 'fog' anyway, if you know?

If I have ever had fog, I didn't know it.

Kawasaki synthetic and K&N filter. Will swith to amsoil synthetic at next oil change. Can't find rotella synthetic 5W40 around here just the 15W40 for diesel engines.

Does anyone know what size crush washer is necessary on the drain plug? I didnt change it when I did my oil change but im beginning to think I should have? I heard it doesnt matter so much, but you never know.

I used Mobile Clean 5000 and a K&N 401 Oil Filter (came with O-rings).

http://www.ronayers.com/Search/N/687/PartNumber/92065-097/Source/KA

I buy a bunch of them to keep on hand even though I do reuse them several times.

I highly recommend using a high quality synthetic oil. I use Shell Rotella T synthetic.

250 Ninja motors have a design flaw that can cause a loss of oil pressure when run hard. I don't know if this has been corrected in the new motors or not but I doubt it.

I have seen many 250s with spun bearings. I've even lost a motor myself before I got anal about oil. I was running dinosaur oil and letting the oil level get down to the lower level mark.

Since burning up my (my girlfriends) motor I switched to Shell Rotella T and have maintained the oil level at the full mark at all times. Since then I have ridden many dozens of days at the track with no engine failures.

Somebody can correct me if this is wrong, but when I bought my 2005 (used) I was told that the problem with the EX-250 engine oil system was the oil-return galleries. At really high RPMs the oil can't get back down out of the head (camshaft galleries, etc.) fast enough and ends up filling the head, getting vented overboard into the air box and onto the road via the drain hose. If you're even the tiniest bit low on oil while running at sustained high PRMs (right at the redline) this filling of the head can leave the main bearings exposed and they burn up.

Kawasaki's fix was to lower the CDI spark-cut threshold to a point below where this starts to really be a problem.

The point at which the IC igniter begins cutting spark, by year:

1988-1995: 15,500 RPM
1996-2005: 14,500 RPM
2006-->: 14,000 RPM

Unless you've substantially modified the engine (carbs, porting, pistons, rods, exhaust, etc.) it runs out breathing room and stops making horsepower at about 12,500 to 13,000 anyway, so there's not a lot to be gained from riding at the redline.


It is nice to know that if it wasn't for one little flaw in the design the EX-250 (pre-gen) engine is really a pretty bullet-proof 15,500 RPM design.

http://www.ronayers.com/Search/N/687/PartNumber/92065-097/Source/KA

I buy a bunch of them to keep on hand even though I do reuse them several times.

sweet thanks for the link

OK, I was told to go to Wal-Mart for Shell Rotella T 5W-40. What I found was Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. Same thing? It was the last bottle and it was leaking all over the place due to a partially unscrewed cap.

OK, I was told to go to Wal-Mart for Shell Rotella T 5W-40. What I found was Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. Same thing? It was the last bottle and it was leaking all over the place due to a partially unscrewed cap.

This one is actually certified. Quote from Wikipedia:

"The newer fully synthetic T6 oil also lists JASO-MA compliance as per the Rotella website."

I just put the T6 in monday night. Havent had a chance to ride since however due to weather and a couple obligations that required using a car.

I am going to go with the Rotella T6 myself for my first oil change since I bought the bike. The prevous owner used Mobile 1, but it seems a lot of people are raving about Rotella, and with the lower price it is a go for me.

The question I have is how long does everyone go between oil changes with synthetics? I was thinking of 5k, but is this too long?

I haven't gone more than 2,000 miles between changes. The interval is dictated by how the bike feels when I ride. When the clutch gets consistently less smooth, I change it out.

Golden Spectro & Kawi filters, always keep a few on hand :thumbup:

This one is actually certified. Quote from Wikipedia:

"The newer fully synthetic T6 oil also lists JASO-MA compliance as per the Rotella website."

Thanks!

I saw the words, "Energy saving" on the Shell website for the T6..... does that indicate friction modifiers, or is that different?

It is my understanding if it says "Energy Conserving" then you shouldn't use it because of the additives, however, the T6 oil says "Energy Saving" and is JASO-MA approved.

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html

The Kawi service shop called me to say that I provided them the wrong oil (Shell Rotella T6 5W-40)! ;)

Motul 7100 and K&N-401

I usualy use Mobile 1 10W-40 full synthetic but they were out so I am going to try Royal Purple 10W-40 full synthetic. I will let you know if I notice a difference.

The Kawi service shop called me to say that I provided them the wrong oil (Shell Rotella T6 5W-40)! ;)

shops are dumb.

Kind of reminds me when i last went to my dealership to get a screw and told him i was gonna put Rotella synthetic at my next oil change and he said "why". Kinda of felt guilty so i bought a jug of kawi synthetic from him. Figured if he was gonna back me up for my warranty by doing my own work the least i could do is use kawi oil once.

Just switched to Mobil 1 5w-50 Full Synthetic with Supersyn! :)

We can use synthetic oils in our bikes!!!???? Are you crazy.... my dealer said it would burn the clutch!!!!:rotflmao:

Kind of reminds me when i last went to my dealership to get a screw

Going to get what :)

lol...i was hoping no one would twist that one around

The question I have is how long does everyone go between oil changes with synthetics? I was thinking of 5k, but is this too long?

Hmmm good question! @ 2,000 miles i switched and changed my own oil and used the 5w-40 Rotella T (kkim uses)
bought mine at wal-mart $14.00 for a 4 qrt. jug!

Thats about 2 oil changes per/Year! (unless you ride a shitload of miles like 25k in 1yr)

I changed my oil again the day i Winterized it, about 4,000 miles later!
The oil looked pretty good in color and not too dirty.

Im not a SAE certi-moto mechanic, but i would say 5,000 miles would be the MAX I personally go, between oil changes!

If you live in a Hot, High Humid state,etc (like Florida/AZ/TX) and do alot of Highway miles, then you might wanna change your oil 3k for peace of mind!

Me, im going to leave in the Rotella T 5w-40 i put in the day i winterized it, then change it around Middle of June! Just b4 the Hotter weather really starts setting in.

Next oil change im gonna use my works Account for a discount, and Order some 5w-40 or 10w-40 full synthetic Oil from AMS-Oil! I read a magazine that i got in the mail (junk mail like) weeks ago, from AMS oil, and it had some nice info and tests about a bunch of Oils vs eachother!

We use AMS-Oil in all our equipment/machines at work and never had a problem with them in the 7 yrs ive been working there! :thumbup:


But, answer IMO, sure 5,000 miles = max b4 oil changes!

I am waiting for my Wix filters to get shipped out, I just purchased 4 quarts of AMSOIL too.

Oil change coming by this weekend I hope. I want to see what the hype is about with the smooth shifting and what not. I use it in my turbo charged Focus. Never had a problem.

I am waiting for my Wix filters to get shipped out, I just purchased 4 quarts of AMSOIL too.

Oil change coming by this weekend I hope. I want to see what the hype is about with the smooth shifting and what not. I use it in my turbo charged Focus. Never had a problem.

'smooth shifting' - are you referring to AMSOIL being that?
Or when you dump the Dino/Conventional oil to full synthetic?

I really did notice a smoother shifting and clutch play when i dumped the Kawi-dealership oil i had done at 610 miles, at the 2,000 mile mark when i changed to the Rotella T 5w-40!

I now have 6,500 miles. I dunno if the Rotella T made that difference, or just cuz the bike being broke-in!

Im sure it felt better, smoother though! :thumbup:

With synthetic oil in general I suppose. I purchased the Amsoil because I run it in my hi power car and its been great. It supposed to be the best oil money can buy weather true or not I have had good experience from it.

Oh my mom called me and told me my Wix filters came in the mail! :)

This weekend I will do the oil change and maintenance. I am rather excited.

This would make a good poll.

I just changed the oil to Rotella T6 5W-40, and can't believe the difference in shifting. So nice and smooth now. I should have changed it sooner, but was waiting for the oil filters I ordered off of eBay and warmer weather.

I now hear that Rotella T isn't good for out bikes, and that we must use Rotella T6 as it is certified JASO MA..

i heard that too

I now hear that Rotella T isn't good for out bikes, and that we must use Rotella T6 as it is certified JASO MA..

what... all of a sudden it isn't good? or T6 is better?

don't listen to me, I might be wrong, but it's just what I have been reading, maybe both are ok.

my conclusion is that these are the only ones to use in our motorcycles, as is is specifically mentioned by shell

http://www.forconstructionpros.com/article/photos/1193692841392_ShellLubr_RotellaTM_1.jpg

UPC: 550019970 15W40 ONLY the 10W30 isn't approved

http://www-static.shell.com/static/rotella-en/images/products/product_bottles/t6_bottle.jpg

UPC: 550019853 5W40

.

I think my 09 with 11000 miles does shift a bit slicker in 3-6. Don't notice and difference in N-1 or 1-2 though. Friend of mine who owns a HD rode my bike once and didn't realize he already shifted into 1 from N. So versus HD all gears are like hot knife in butter.
Posted via Mobile Device

I now hear that Rotella T isn't good for out bikes, and that we must use Rotella T6 as it is certified JASO MA..

I say it's marketing hype, but it's a moot point for me personally, since I can only find the T6 stuff and no "regular T" Rotella.

I think they just rebranded their oil to T6

I think they just rebranded their oil to T6

Exactly.

I wish Shell would sell their Shell Advance Products designed for 2-4 stroke engines in North America.

don't listen to me, I might be wrong, but it's just what I have been reading, maybe both are ok.

my conclusion is that these are the only ones to use in our motorcycles, as is is specifically mentioned by shell

http://www.forconstructionpros.com/article/photos/1193692841392_ShellLubr_RotellaTM_1.jpg

UPC: 550019970 15W40 ONLY the 10W30 isn't approved

http://www-static.shell.com/static/rotella-en/images/products/product_bottles/t6_bottle.jpg

UPC: 550019853 5W40

Non motorcycle specific 10W30 is not approved because it is "energy conserving" which means it has friction modifiers which are not good for wet clutches.

I think they just rebranded their oil to T6

No, they still sell both, i checked both spec sheets and they have different sulfur content and other stuff too, ill look into it

:canada: Rotella T 5w40 is on sale at Crappy tire for $21.99

At 1500 miles I changed to Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 and I'm using the WIX filter.
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html

I have spent countless hours studying up on mototcycle oil. I was so skeptical about using diesel truck oil at first. After I spent some time looking in to it, the choice was very clear. Shell Rotella T all the way !!


They actually have their own Shell Rotella T motorcycle forum. TONS of info here.
http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=9&page=1


not sure if this has been linked yet but it has some good info too.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13033

I usualy use Mobile 1 10W-40 full synthetic but they were out so I am going to try Royal Purple 10W-40 full synthetic. I will let you know if I notice a difference.

I don't notice any difference performance wise but my mileage has improved slightly. I used to have to switch to reserve at 220 miles but the other day I did not have to switch until I reached 240 miles. Will keep monitoring to see if it was a fluke or if it stays like that.

So after deciding to change my own oil for the first time, first time for me bike has about 5k miles and a couple oil changes at the shop on it, I found the the kkim guide and sever other great pieces of material on how to do it, but they all seem to have left me with one question what oil to use.

I read the oil topics and am now much wiser about what,where, and how oil works but which to choose.. . I tend to ride about 30min to and from work and usually keep the rpms in the higher end 9k-11k most of the way, so does that mean I should be using a lower viscosity to help the engine work that hard or a heavier to hold up to the conditions. Or does it really matter, the articles seem to make a big deal of it but does that really translate to real world. I dont mind spending a few extra bucks exspecially compared to the price the shops typically charge a do it yourself with better parts still about a 100 bucks cheaper:D

/moved to new-gen tech

I think it's what you like. I ran Mobile 1 full syn for every oil change, but my last one. I am starting to use Kawasaki full syn oil, and Kawasakis oil filter. It's the same price as my mobile 1 oil change, ruffly $32.00.

These bikes were designed to run at a higher RPM without damage. Stick to the factory weight. Any good 10w40 motorcycle specific oil will work. Synthetic oil will allow longer oil change intervals.

sound simple enough :D thank you !

with synthetic your transmission will shift really smooth :thumbup:

http://www.rvcruzer.com/images/rotellas.jpg

I use

http://www.lubeoilsales.com/products/mcf_qt_350phx.jpg

But the rotella is great stuff, and cheaper. For more information read: Motorcycle Oil Info (http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html), More Motorcycle Oil Info (http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm) or the attached study comparing motorcycle motor oils. The study is sponsored by AmSoil, but done by an independent, reputable lab and certified - take it for what you will. Frankly, if you change your oil as often as you should, the type of oil itself is not a huge deal within a few guidelines you'll get from the articles referenced.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/mob/98ja11.jpg

What kind of Motor oil do you use for your 250? Im thinking of doing my own 600 mile break-in job..any brand that is the best or your favorite? Your input would be awesome! Hints for tuning my own is highly appreciated also!

According to most sources, it is best to use dino (conventional) oil for the first thousand or so miles, maybe a bit longer. Something to do with seals not sealing properly with synthetic. Google it, and there is plenty of information.

I just ran Castrol until I switched to Royal Purple at 3,500 miles.

There's a bunch of threads on this and lots of debate. If you buy a name brand motor oil that says it's for motorcycles, then you're good. Dino or synthetic, either is fine, synthetic won't hurt a thing.

There's a bunch of threads on this and lots of debate. If you buy a name brand motor oil that says it's for motorcycles, then you're good. Dino or synthetic, either is fine, synthetic won't hurt a thing.

yep. :thumbup:

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil

Whatever you use early, the most important thing is to change it often during break in. Because you'll be changing it so often, long term wear characteristics really aren't that important.

So I wouldn't be that concerned about brand for your first change or two. You don't want a synthetic, because it could inhibit break-in. Same thing with a heavier weight oil. The safe thing to do is just to use a motorcycle specific conventional oil, the less expensive the better. You can also go with an auto oil if you avoid energy conserving oils, and save some money.

To avoid running the shavings in the oil that accumulate during breakin, I changed mine at 600/1200 miles, but I'd change at 400/800/1200 if I had to do it again. Once you get past the break-in period you can move to synthetic. People love the Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40. It is great for motorcycle use and inexpensive compared to the specifically marketed brands. I use AmSoil Synthetic 10w-40, which tests very well and was on special when I was buying.

What is the oil that most riders recommend?
Also what is the standard interval for oil changes on bikes.
Sorry for the newb questions, new rider. :rolleyes:

edit:
the bike only has 990 miles.
Not sure on motorcycles when switching to synthetic is ok as well.

Good question i also just bought a 2011 ninja and would like help with this info

thanks

I believe 10w-40 is the proper oil weight, just wondering if a certain brand is best.
I heard Shell Rotella-T 15w40 is great, but im worried about putting synthetic in the engine since its just hitting 1k.

You can run full synthetic oil at zero miles. Synthetic oil being bad for a new engine is hogwarsh (yes, with an R).

An oil thread.

Let the carnage begin! 10w40 is fine and you can use just about any 10w40 not just motorcycle oil, but only in the 10w40 weight. Any other weight you use should be made for motorcycles. If you do a search you can find a detailed response as to why but that is the long and short of it.

Lots here go with the rotella t, I use Mobil 1 full synthetic for motorcycles, Mostly because i wont buy anything from wall mart and the most common stocked MC oil in my area is the Mobil one. I am not going to go search hell and back just for oil. Choose your oil weight based on the temps where you live.

Intervals depend on if your bike is broken in or not. Even that is a mini argument in itself. If your bike is broken in every 3k will be what you want. Oil changes on these bikes is pretty simple to do and with as high revving as these are you cant neglect your oil.

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Maintenance_Schedule

I went with Kawasaki's 10w-40.
And the high revs of the MC engine would prompt me to change my oil twice as often.
I'll probably change it every 1,500 from here on out and ill probably use Rotella T full synthetic. I ran Rotella in my WRX and it loves it :)

I couldnt find a wix filter anywhere in town :(
ended up getting a fram (ugh).

Changing every 1500 is a waste of time, money and oil.

Amsoil is by far the best stuff out there. It costs a bit more, but its real good for bikes.

Regardless of whether you choose standard or synthetic, high quality or the cheap stuff....always change the filter! The filter makes more of a difference than the oil does. You could be running the best oil out there, but if your pump cant circulate it because of all the crud in the dirty filter, it doesnt do you a bit of good.

I use Motul 300v in my racebike.

I believe 10w-40 is the proper oil weight, just wondering if a certain brand is best.
I heard Shell Rotella-T 15w40 is great, but im worried about putting synthetic in the engine since its just hitting 1k.

Shell Rotella T 15w40 is a conventional oil, not synthetic as far as I know. The full synthetic is a 5w40 grade in a blue bottle. It's good oil, just don't expect it to make your bike feel like $1 million bucks. I switched over to the T6 from regular Castrol Dino oil. Didn't notice any benefits in bike operation. If anything the Ninja may have even shifted smoother with the Castrol oil. If what you're after though is higher sheer resistance and smoother cold start ups then consider synthetic but good dino oil still does the job fine.

Changing every 1500 is a waste of time, money and oil.
ok, i was concerned the high rpms of MC engine might wear an oil quicker.

And yea, I always change the filter with my oil :thumbup:

i do the recommended oil svc intervals with Rotella T 15x40 in year round 80+ temps...no issues...lots of through the gears, high rpm riding..even soem traffic mixed in there.

Having good luck so far with Amsoil and Wix filters.

I've always used K &N filters so I've nothing to compare to. is there anybody that's used both Wix and K&N & prefer one over the other? Was lookin for the wix filters but stopped since I found a place that only sells K&N
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I've always preferred wix, was super disappointed I could only find a fram. :(
On my WRX forums there were comparisons done and WIX was always much higher quality and had a higher flow rate.

fyi,

napa carries WIX filters rebranded under their own name.

part #ps4941

fyi,

napa carries WIX filters rebranded under their own name.

part #ps4941

yep, it used to be called the "gold" filter series, but they've renamed it "NPS" for NAPA Power Sports, hence the PS prefix, I guess. just bought one last week from NAPA and it still says they are made by WIX.

Anyone have any input on CarQuest filters?

Anyone have any input on CarQuest filters?
Made by Wix, same as NAPA.

My Ninja just got better!
Replaced my oil and filter for the first time since I bought my Ninja, about a month ago.
I feel that if I treat my bike as well as I can it won't try and kill me in the twisties. That is why I stuck Castrol Power1 in it.
!!!WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!
It feels like a completely different machine, it's so much smoother, although I'm not sure if that's because of the expensive oil I used or the fact that the stuff already in it was filthy.
Anywayz, I'm interesting in finding out the different brands of oil other people use, so please, do share :D