View Full Version : Bad Clutch Cable


islanderman7
February 24th, 2009, 01:26 PM
Had a nerve wrecking experience today on my way to school. The cable where at the end where the metal clamp attaches too all unbraided except for one thread. Luckily I was able to get it back home without an accident, but it was pretty difficult switching through gears.

While I was at a stoplight, I was pretty sure I was in 1st gear, but I had to cover the front break because it was still engaged. Don't ask how I was able to keep the engine from shutting down while stopped and the clutch engaged. That still perplexes me.

Anyways, I'm glad I am back home in one piece, but do you guys think this cable is covered under warranty? Its less than a year old and has 4000 miles on it.

*Alex can you move this to the 2008+ Tech talk. I accidentally posted this in the wrong section. Thanks.

OldGuy
February 24th, 2009, 01:57 PM
Call them up and ask them. The only thing that can happen is they say no. I replaced the cable on my '01 a few months ago and it's a piece of cake. They are aren't that expensive.

kkim
February 24th, 2009, 03:03 PM
Picture of the frayed cable?

islanderman7
February 24th, 2009, 03:48 PM
832
833

kkim
February 24th, 2009, 03:55 PM
that looks like it should be covered under warranty, if it's been less than a year since you purchased your bike. Like Don said, never hurts to ask.


Looks like the cables are "cut". Do you have any sharp edges on the cable adjuster end?

islanderman7
February 24th, 2009, 04:38 PM
I am not aware of any sharp edges at the moment. I will double check when I get home. But you think they could have "torn" due to over tightening and not "cut"?

OldGuy
February 24th, 2009, 07:01 PM
When I replaced the clutch cable on my '01 the parts man (who has not steered me wrong yet) recommend the Motion Pro after market cable over the OEM. Lower cost and better quality. The Motion Pro part number was 03-0191 but be sure there aren't any changes from pre-gen to the '08-'09.

kkim
February 24th, 2009, 07:06 PM
I have no idea if over tightening it could result in something like that.

From what I can see, all the cable strands look like they are fine coming out of the barrel on the end, is that correct? Or does it look like the strands were pulled out of that barrel one at a time?

islanderman7
February 24th, 2009, 08:18 PM
When I replaced the clutch cable on my '01 the parts man (who has not steered me wrong yet) recommend the Motion Pro after market cable over the OEM. Lower cost and better quality. The Motion Pro part number was 03-0191 but be sure there aren't any changes from pre-gen to the '08-'09.

Thanks for your input. I decided to just buy the OEM cable and learn to replace the whole thing myself. The OEM cable is $16 bucks. So it gives me an excuse to strip her nekkid. :eyebrows:

I have no idea if over tightening it could result in something like that.

From what I can see, all the cable strands look like they are fine coming out of the barrel on the end, is that correct? Or does it look like the strands were pulled out of that barrel one at a time?

They are fine coming out of the barrel end, so I guess it was cut. I don't see where it could have "cut" the cable at. Ughh so frustrating. Gonna look again in the morning.

kkim
February 24th, 2009, 08:26 PM
put the cable back onto the clutch lever assembly and see what lines up to where the "cuts" are on the cable. That's the area that's abrading the cable.

islanderman7
February 24th, 2009, 10:32 PM
I just looked at it again and placed the cable back in. It's making me wonder though... about the clutch lever. Imagine planes X, Y, and Z (assuming you had at least calculus). Plane Z is the horizontal plane where you can depress the clutch lever backwards and the release forward. X and Y plane is the vertical axis; the lever has some play along the X and Y axis. Meaning it moves up and down. Should there be some play like this? Kinda theorizing that this play is what led to my clutch being "cut" near metal clamp.

kkim
February 24th, 2009, 10:35 PM
did you try tightening up the nut at the bottom of the pivot pin?

islanderman7
February 24th, 2009, 10:37 PM
No. But should there be play like that? Is there play up and down on yours?

kkim
February 24th, 2009, 10:44 PM
there is some play on mine. you can't get it absolutely tight. That clutch lever will always rattle. but if the nut is loose, you may be getting more play than what you are supposed to. can you tighten it up and does it lessen the vertical play any?

islanderman7
February 24th, 2009, 10:54 PM
Tightening the nut does not decrease the play along the X and Y axis. In fact, it just stays the same no matter how many times I tighten it.

kkim
February 24th, 2009, 10:55 PM
was your bike ever dropped on the left side?

islanderman7
February 24th, 2009, 10:58 PM
Hmmm... I've never been down. But then again, I bought this bike used/brand new with about 279 miles from the previous owner. But she said she never dropped it. There was no cosmetic damage either.

kkim
February 24th, 2009, 11:06 PM
dunno what to tell you, then. Mine has some play in the lever, but I don't have any cuts to the cable at all... in fact, mine still looks brand new. Of course, my bike only has 2500 miles, but if the loose lever was the cause, you would hear of a lot of other owners with higher mileage having the same problem as you, but you don't.

replace it and keep a close eye on it.

islanderman7
February 25th, 2009, 11:30 AM
A little update though. I took out the cable adjust nut and screw and was experimenting with how its supposed to be.

From the factory this is how the cable adjust nut lines up with the cable adjust screw when it is flush.
851

I flipped the cable adjust nut and this is how it lines up with the cable adjust screw when it is flush.
852

Now is the second image that I provided the correct way? The second one looks right, but thats not how it came from the factory.

kkim
February 25th, 2009, 11:37 AM
I don't think it would matter which way it was on there, one way or another. The little portion is what you use to adjust the slack and the larger wheel looking thing is then used as a lock nut against the bracket side to lock the assembly so it doesn't rotate, so the relationship of the small to large part will change depending on how the clutch cable happens to be adjusted.

hope that makes sense. :o