Ok, I've had the bike since Sunday and I've already got a problem :(

It has been pretty darn cold around here the past couple days (under 30). But I wanted to take it around the block anyway. I started it yesterday... took a few tries under full choke, but it started. Tried to start it at 9am today (temp 15F) starter cranked, but it never caught and started at all. Same thing at around 3pm (temp 30F). Just tried it again... still nothin'.

Gettin' kinda nervous. Could I have fouled the plugs by trying to start it so much?

Turn the choke off, hold the throttle wide open and try starting the bike while keeping the throttle wide open. Try that a few times. If the bike does not start then, go back to full choke, no touching the throttle and try starting it again. You could have flooded it and the first step will clear it out if you did.

Turn the choke off, hold the throttle wide open and try starting the bike while keeping the throttle wide open. Try that a few times. If the bike does not start then, go back to full choke, no touching the throttle and try starting it again. You could have flooded it and the first step will clear it out if you did.

Tried that... I cranked it for probably longer than I should have during the de-flood technique. Ive tried every combination of choke and throttle...

how much gas do you have?

Don't panic, if it was working a few days ago and nothing changed, it will more than likely soon be working again. These bikes don't have the largest of batteries. If you have tried to start it a number of times, especially in cold weather, the remaining power in the battery to successfully complete a cold-start may turn out to be marginal. Do you have a battery tender (http://www.batterytender.com/) (or similar) yet? They are useful gadgets that keep a battery fully charged when you're not using the vehicle. MSRP on a battery tender junior is $40, and you can often find them for less than that.

Don't panic, if it was working a few days ago and nothing changed, it will more than likely soon be working again. These bikes don't have the largest of batteries. If you have tried to start it a number of times, especially in cold weather, the remaining power in the battery to successfully complete a cold-start may turn out to be marginal. Do you have a battery tender (http://www.batterytender.com/) (or similar) yet? They are useful gadgets that keep a battery fully charged when you're not using the vehicle. MSRP on a battery tender junior is $40, and you can often find them for less than that.

I dont have one, but it's definitely on the list of things. I did run it down quite a bit, but used another battery to get it to full charge again.

Yesterday when I cranked it, it would do the put-put-put die... took a few of those then stayed running. Today just cranks away with no sign of starting.

On sale right now! $29

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On sale right now! $29

http://tinyurl.com/dzd28c

Done.

What to do till then? hahah

Ryne, I'm serious... how much gas do you have?

Ryne, I'm serious... how much gas do you have?

Haha plennnty. At least half a tank. Believe me... it crossed my mind, and I checked.

where is the bike located? inside a garage or outside in the freezing temps? I'm thinking maybe the lower temps froze some water in the fuel overnight. How cold is it where the bike is sitting? Water in fuel is not uncommon if you live somewhere that uses ethanol.

If the battery is low, as Alex mentioned, best to charge it up before putting it back under a strain again.

where is the bike located? inside a garage or outside in the freezing temps? I'm thinking maybe the lower temps froze some water in the fuel overnight. How cold is it where the bike is sitting? Water in fuel is not uncommon if you live somewhere that uses ethanol.

If the battery is low, as Alex mentioned, best to charge it up before putting it back under a strain again.

The bike is outside in freezing temps all the time. It still has the gas in it the previous owner put in it. He said he put 3/4 tank of premium in it before I picked it up. Isn't ethanol usually the 85 octane?

nope... it depends on the locality. We have ethanol here for all grades of gasoline.

btw, our bikes use 87. No harm in using premium, though it doesn't help anything except the oil companies get richer.

nope... it depends on the locality. We have ethanol here for all grades of gasoline.

btw, our bikes use 87. No harm in using premium, though it doesn't help anything except the oil companies get richer.

Well, I guess all I can do now is hope its warmer tomorrow. As for the fuel, I have no intention of using premium when I start filling it. I read the 87octane recommendation in the manual. Thanks for the help.

When temps hit around 40-45 I have trouble starting my 08. Usually takes three or four tries with full choke and about 5sec. in between attempts. Hope it warms up for ya.

I agree with kelly on this. there may have been a lot of moisture in your tank/lines which decreased the freezing point of your gas. you never really know how long the dealer or the person you bought it from left the tank empty/half empty and let moisture build up in there. best thing i can recommend is to add some heet or sea foam after giving your battery a lil charge to ensure you dont kill it.

Ok, it's definitely warm enough out... almost 50F and it stil wont start. Got plenty of charge and gas.

When I got home from school and tried to start it, it backfired quite loudly. Sounded like someone slamming the hell out of a cheap screen door.

?????????????????

the backfiring is "normal". http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=14080

at least you know you're getting spark! :)

I'm still guessing it's either a fuel delivery problem or a starting method problem.

the backfiring is "normal". http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=14080

at least you know you're getting spark! :)

I'm still guessing it's either a fuel delivery problem or a starting method problem.


Ive got the left side ferring off right now... anything I can check over here?

....startin to get dark.... think I might have to call it quits again. Im stressin oouuuutt

check to see if the fuel petcock is in the "on" position and not the "pri" position. Also, check to see that in addition to the fuel line that runs from the petcock to the carbs, there is another smaller hose connected to the back of the fuel petcock. That's a vacuum hose and w/o it connected to the petcock, it will not flow any fuel.

check to see if the fuel petcock is in the "on" position and not the "pri" position. Also, check to see that in addition to the fuel line that runs from the petcock to the carbs, there is another smaller hose connected to the back of the fuel petcock. That's a vacuum hose and w/o it connected to the petcock, it will not flow any fuel.

petcock is ON... ill go check the lines to it

all lines look fine



....other than the occasional backfire, this thing isnt makin any noise beside the starter turning

Do you know if you can make a video of your troubled start up?

all lines look fine



....other than the occasional backfire, this thing isnt makin any noise beside the starter turning


PS I appreciate the help!

Do you know if you can make a video of your troubled start up?


No video cameras in the house.


Procedure:
1.key in turn to ON
2.choke to full
3.kill switch to RUN
4.press starter.... doesnt do anything but run the starter... usually 5ish seconds at a time

as a test, turn the petcock to "pri" and try starting the bike.

as a test, turn the petcock to "pri" and try starting the bike.

full choke?

should it start?

How are you making sure the battery has a full charge? When are you expecting to receive your battery tender? I'd put the cover back on the bike, and not worry about it until you have the tender in hand and have the battery fully topped off. Then start going down the list of all of the other things that could be causing issues, as listed in this thread (water in gas, incorrectly routed/connected lines, wrong petcock position, choke not working, etc).

How are you making sure the battery has a full charge? When are you expecting to receive your battery tender? I'd put the cover back on the bike, and not worry about it until you have the tender in hand and have the battery fully topped off. Then start going down the list of all of the other things that could be causing issues, as listed in this thread (water in gas, incorrectly routed/connected lines, wrong petcock position, choke not working, etc).

I have it jumped to a non-running car. I will stop doing that and just wait til I get my tender I guess.

I have it jumped to a non-running car. I will stop doing that and just wait til I get my tender I guess.

If you have it jumped to a fully charged battery already, and are using its power to start the bike, then I'm afraid that the battery may not be the only issue. Doesn't mean the tender is a bad idea, but the theory that the bike battery doesn't have enough juice to turn the motor fast enough (or long enough) to start, starts to be less likely if you're already using a more powerful battery to give it a shot.

yep, it should not be a problem using another battery to start your bike.

if you want to continue, we can do that. if you want call it quits for the night, we can do that, too. :)

yep, it should not be a problem using another battery to start your bike.

if you want to continue, we can do that. if you want call it quits for the night, we can do that, too. :)

It's too dark to continue... but the PRI did change the sound a little bit.


Totally bummed tho... first nice day in a while. Supposed to be warmer tomorrow. Im prayin to the Ninja gods tonight!

Hey just to let you know these bikes do not like the cold cant not start mine when its less than 35 out.

Cool. You need 3 things to start an engine... air, fuel and spark.

Unless something drastic has happened since yesterday, we can assume you are still getting air through the airbox. The back fire confirmed you are getting spark. The only thing left is fuel... or more so a fuel delivery issue. I know you just bought the bike, but did you see the bike actually start up and run sometime before/after the purchase?

If so, we are not getting the proper fuel/air ratio to start the cold bike. I'm trying to confirm you're getting fuel to the carbs. By using "pri" the fuel will flow w/o vacuum applied to the petcock, sort of like the gravity fed petcocks on the older bikes.

BTW, if you are done for the night, turn the petcock back to the "on" position.

Tomorrow, try starting the bike as you normally would (choke on, no touch the throttle, hit start button for about 5 seconds) with the petcock in the "pri" position. The "pri" position insure we are getting fuel to the carbs. If it doesn't catch, do the clearing out a flooded engine procedure and then try starting again.

If it doesn't start, we can continue troubleshooting. :)

edit- it sounds like you might need to shim your carbs in the future if the temp is affecting the starting, but lets get it started, first.

Hey just to let you know these bikes do not like the cold cant not start mine when its less than 35 out.


Yeah, I assumed that was the problem yesterday. It was in the 40s all day today tho. Gettin up to 50 tomorrow.... I guess Ill just have to try again tomorrow.

But, I did get it to start in 15F temps 2 days ago.

Cool. You need 3 things to start an engine... air, fuel and spark.

Unless something drastic has happened since yesterday, we can assume you are still getting air through the airbox. The back fire confirmed you are getting spark. The only thing left is fuel... or more so a fuel delivery issue. I know you just bought the bike, but did you see the bike actually start up and run sometime before/after the purchase?

If so, we are not getting the proper fuel/air ratio to start the cold bike. I'm trying to confirm you're getting fuel to the carbs. By using "pri" the fuel will flow w/o vacuum applied to the petcock, sort of like the gravity fed petcocks on the older bikes.

BTW, if you are done for the night, turn the petcock back to the "on" position.

Tomorrow, try starting the bike as you normally would (choke on, no touch the throttle, hit start button for about 5 seconds) with the petcock in the "pri" position. The "pri" position insure we are getting fuel to the carbs. If it doesn't catch, do the clearing out a flooded engine procedure and then try starting again.

If it doesn't start, we can continue troubleshooting. :)

First: Thanks!

I didnt actually see the bike start, it was running when I showed up. But when I got it home, I started it and rode it around for a while (Sunday). Monday I started it and rode it for a bit. Tuesday problems begin. Wednesday problems continue.

I turned the petcock back to ON for the night. Tomorrow I will try PRI + full choke.

Last: Thanks again!

wish you luck. :thumbup:

have you tried not to use the electric starter?
put it in 2nd or 3rd gear, before you start moving. then push the bike a few ft and jump on and release the clutch. often thats all it takes(on bikes with e-start).

how is that different from using the starter? :confused:

how is that different from using the starter? :confused:

because, electric-started bikes are very sensitive to the combination cold weather and maybe not a tip-top fully loaded battery.
A rolling start is 100 times stronger than a e-start :P

my ninja always start, no matter temperature, but i got automatic-choke. :D gives me perfect air/fuel mixture. a carb bike is a little more tricky, and this wears down the battery over a couple of days.

anyways, just try it. what do you have to loose? 1min...
my 50cc always started on rolling start in the winter, but very often refused to start on e-start, although it was going the same speed(rpm/min) as in the summer, and the battery did "sound" perfectly fine. thats why im suggesting this ;)

roll of a hill or push the bike, full choke, and do not think about touching the throttle till its started(then it will take longer time).
and if you havent done this ever before :P put it in 2nd or 3rd gear before you start of, engage clutch and release again at speed.

because, electric-started bikes are very sensitive to the combination cold weather and maybe not a tip-top fully loaded battery.
A rolling start is 100 times stronger than a e-start :P

sorry, I don't believe that for a minute.

As long as the spark plug fires when it should as the piston comes around, it shouldn't matter what force it is using to it get there, be it an electric starter or the traction from the rear tire.

sorry, I don't believe that for a minute.

that wasnt a fact. therfore the " :P ". its kinda hard to get such things on a forum i guess. just making a point :)
but its way stronger. its alot more torque :P is that so hard to believe? :eek:
As long as the spark plug fires when it should as the piston comes around, it shouldn't matter what force it is using to it get there, be it an electric starter or the traction from the rear tire.
well yes it does, i know that for a fact. it need a little more power when the a/f mix isnt right, which is clearly a problem here by the sound of it.

power to do what??? as long as the starter is turning the piston pass top dead center again and again, the effect is the same as jump starting a bike. :confused:

I agree with you the air/fuel mixture isn't right, which is why I'm trying to get him to check if gas is indeed flowing from the tank to the carbs. If he has no gas flowing to the carbs, he has no air/fuel mixture. :)

He can try bump starting if he wants, but I'm guessing it might be a bit wet and snowy where he is right now if he's having 15-40 degree weather.

power to do what??? as long as the starter is turning the piston pass top dead center again and again, the effect is the same as jump starting a bike. :confused:my experience is that it is a difference. also on carb bikes the starter-rpms also controls the vacuum and the fuel-flow. if that too low it wont start. a little rolling in gear makes it flow for sure.

it was just a suggestion, and i could be wrong and his bike wont start, it was not meant as a discussion subject, but dont yell at me when the e-starter is blown and you realise that the bike starts after a few feet of rolling in gear. :cool:
I agree with you the air/fuel mixture isn't right, which is why I'm trying to get him to check if gas is indeed flowing from the tank to the carbs. If he has no gas flowing to the carbs, he has no air/fuel mixture. :)
yup. you havent mensioned what may cause this, but i guess you think a vacuum/gas gose is disconnected or something like that? But then it wont stop like he described. Because it was first hard to start, then it wouldnt start at all, makes it all about weather/temperatures imo. A rolling start will make sure it flows good, and it will easily run out all foul or flood that could be in the cylinders. a little rolling without trottle, and im pretty sure that the bike will start right up ;) but yea, as you say, could be difficult because of the weather.

previous owner could have had a bad batch of gas.Either dirt or water could be a contaminate.

I did actually try a rolling start, but that was when it was really cold. It is now 49F at 8am. Im going to try everything we discussed again. It should be warm enough now, and for long enough, to melt any frozen water in the gas.

If I can't get it started by Saturday, she's goin' into the shop. Although, I don't know how I will get her there.

My $.02 - Go to the DIY section under Carbs and learn how to drain the fuel bowls and how to disconnect the fuel valve (on/pri). If you do have contaminant in the fuel, you should see it when draining the bowls. You could go ahead and drain the entire tank and add your own gas.

As Kelly stated, you need 3 things: Air (if you're breathing, it must be available), fuel (not sure), and spark (ignition). You can check the spark by disconnecting one spark plug wire and holding it close to the frame and try to start the engine. Watch to see if you have a spark. DON'T DO THIS WHILE GASOLINE IS PRESENT OR THE GAS TANK IS OPEN!

Of course, this is NOT going to be fun, if you're doing it in the COLD. Hopefully, you have a garage or other enclosed area where you can be out of the elements.

Good Luck!! :thumbup:

My $.02 - Go to the DIY section under Carbs and learn how to drain the fuel bowls and how to disconnect the fuel valve (on/pri). If you do have contaminant in the fuel, you should see it when draining the bowls. You could go ahead and drain the entire tank and add your own gas.

As Kelly stated, you need 3 things: Air (if you're breathing, it must be available), fuel (not sure), and spark (ignition). You can check the spark by disconnecting one spark plug wire and holding it close to the frame and try to start the engine. Watch to see if you have a spark. DON'T DO THIS WHILE GASOLINE IS PRESENT OR THE GAS TANK IS OPEN!

Of course, this is NOT going to be fun, if you're doing it in the COLD. Hopefully, you have a garage or other enclosed area where you can be out of the elements.

Good Luck!! :thumbup:

Im going to try checking for spark right now, but the rest will have to wait until the evening. My students have their biggest project due, and I have to help them through it.

As for the garage, I have NO access to one. Which is part of the reason I bought the bike. Classic 'assume'tion making and ass of me. I thought I would have trouble free transportation... guess not.

atleast try a rolling start before you do anything else :) my advice

Tried the petcock in PRI with full choke... nothing. My friend claims he smelled gas tho, but all this outdoor working has given me a cold.


Pulled the left side farring and spark plug wire... I HAVE spark on at least one side. I don't trust the tool given to remove a plug, so I still don't know if I have a fouled plug.

OK, tried a few more things with 'no' luck.

1st: Tried PRI + full choke: nothin

2nd: Friend pushed me in 2nd gear. Let out clutch, kinda sounded like it was running until I dis-engaged the clutch.

3rd: Tried all the combos of starting. Best luck came from normal cold start procedure. Full choke, petcock to ON. Sounds like only one cyl. is firing. Which could be cause I've only checked the left side wire and neither actual plug.

Most recent attempt was WOT flood clear technique and I definitely smelled gas.

at this point, try draining the carb bowls to see what is in there. possibly water in the bowls is preventing you from starting.

catch it in a small container then dump the contents into a glass jar so you can see what's in there. put the petcock on pri while you do this.

at this point, try draining the carb bowls to see what is in there. possibly water in the bowls is preventing you from starting.

catch it in a small container then dump the contents into a glass jar so you can see what's in there. put the petcock on pri while you do this.

This is probably the last thing I will try before taking it to a shop.

When I drain them, do I need to use both of those nipples, or will one of them drain the entire bowl?

there is one drain screw per carb. you need to drain both carbs.

keep in mind, when doing this with the bike in pri, we are actually letting gas flow from the tank, through the carb and out the drain. I'm hoping to flush whatever contaminates that is in the bowl out with (hopefully) fresh gas from your tank. That's why we need to see what comes out of the bowls. if there is water in there, it needs to be flushed again until no more water comes out when flushed.

Ryne,

any update?

Ryne,

any update?

Nothin... I tried to repeat a few of the things we talked about before. All that time outside in the cold got me nice and sick. I was about to start removal of the right side faring today to get to the fuel bowls, but it was really windy and I just didn't feel up to it. She's goin' in to see the pros tomorrow morning. I'm just gonna pay to have it figured out. I feel like a quitter, but without a proper work space/tools/knowledge I think it would just be better to take a shot in the wallet versus doing damage... assuming I haven't done any already by trying to start it so many times.

Thanks again for all the help. Maybe next time we can actually solve a problem... let's just hope the next time is 'fun' work, like mods, not sucky work just trying to get the darn thing to fire up. I will be sure to get a full description of what the shop does and I will post it on here so people will have it for future reference.

Hey, if you don't have a place to work and the weather conditions suck, I don't blame you. It will be interesting to find out what the problem is. Yes, please update this thread when they get it fixed.

take care... have a few :drunk1::drunk1: as a cold remedy. :D

Hope everything works out, Ive been reading allong as things have unfolded. I work on small motors allot at the docks, and things are really frustrating until you can open er up and see whats inside. ESPECIALLY when the motor was out of your posession. With my boat....well I know my boat, I know whats wrong with it, what gas is going it, how often its being run etc....When someone brings me a motor and says Fix! Much like your scenario (Just obtained the bike)

The only really effective way(IMO) to see whats wrong it to strip er down....at least a little(Even if its as little as a spark test!). You have to be a realy good diagnostician to tell whats wrong with a motor without stipping stuff down and doing some tests. Especially in your scenario where the bike wont even START! Could be anything. Definately stoked to see what was wrong with it after all....I kind of like taking the carbs off other peoples motors because its always a suprize whats inside. Sometimes there caked with "gelatinized" gasoline clogging the jets and restricting the float etc... Fun stuff!

So, I took her to the shop. They said they're going to call me tonight or tomorrow morning with an update... an update I will be sure to forward to you all.

keepin' my fingers crossed it isn't anything major

Fingers crossed :jumping30:

Dumb question, but did you try draining the float bowls? Sometimes water will build up in there over the winter. Just drain out enough to be sure you have fresh gas in the bowls before you try to start it.

Chris

I've been folowing your story Ryne like it was a good episode of CSI or something. You got me on the edge of my seat waiting to see how ya bay-bay is gonna come through this D=
I really hope that you get it all worked out (for a minimal cost if any) I know the feeling of dread that goes along with favorite things not working >.<

got my fingers crossed for you bro

Dumb question, but did you try draining the float bowls? Sometimes water will build up in there over the winter. Just drain out enough to be sure you have fresh gas in the bowls before you try to start it.

Chris

SHE RUNS AGAIN!!!

kkim had suggested I do that, but I never did. I got the piece of tube to do the job, but I just didn't feel up to it (sickness + nasty weather + working outside). Anyway, the shop told me that's exactly what it was... contaminants in my fuel bowls. Guess I should have tried it!

So, for all those out there that have to suffer through winters... if she doesn't start, drain those bowls.

Thanks again for all your help guys and gals! It's officially gorgeous out right now so.... you'll look for me, but baby, I'll be gone!

:D:D:D:D:D

ah keep us updated rynownd! cause my bike's not starting anymore either :( I'll try to drain the bowls and hope for an update here. Otherwise I'll be starting my own thread lol

EDIT: perfect timing. just saw your post... I'll give it a try

woo hoo! results at last. get out there and show ur baby some love
d=('-')z

Alright - good news Ryne

Did you get to see what the gas looked like? Something like this:

http://gallery.darladog.com/d/2718-2/IMG_2725.JPG

Little water in the gas!

Sam,
is that what came out of yours?

I did not get to see what the gas looked like. The tech said 'contaminants' came out of it. Just got back from showin' her some looooove haha. 65 miles of love :D

Oh yeah, I had been talking to the previous owner about this and when I told him I finally got it running he said he had put 'sea foam' in there and never would again... damn right he wont ever again!!

seafoam works well... the bike had water in the gas, which was the problem that the original owner was trying to fix.

how much was the damage from thew shop?

seafoam works well... the bike had water in the gas, which was the problem that the original owner was trying to fix.

how much was the damage from thew shop?

$65.00

That's a flat rate diag fee. They told me before I signed the papers, if they can fix it within an hour of beginning work, there would not be an additional labor charge. That happened to be the case. I had them change my oil/filter while they were in there too. That's something I will do on my own in the future though.

Sam,
is that what came out of yours?

That's a pic from the "Carb Cleaning Link" under the DIY links at:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10298

Go to the external link and then click on the left side under "Draining...."

The fellow actually added water to the jar, in order to show what you might expect to see.

Late breaking news! Definitely check out all the links on the left side of the above external link. Number 38 shows how to change the chain. Another one shows a homemade bead breaker (2X4's). ha ha

Also, remember Yamaha makes a great Carb cleaner (pour thru), which was developed when they had that large recall of bikes with bad gas shipped overseas!

Good to hear they got your bike running :)

What does the dealer charge these days to drain the bowls????

Its great to hear that your bike is up and running, hope this doesn't happen again!

Good to hear your bike is up and running again.

Ouch $65 to drain the fuel bowls? If this happens again, I suggest you learn to do this yourself. Its not that hard. Heres a link that shows you how to drain the float bowls for our bikes if your not familiar with it. Drain Float Bowls (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10640)

I don't doubt I can do it myself... I was just frustrated and sick. Plus the weather wasn't great and I have to work outside. Hopefully all these links will save someone else $65 in the future... that's what these forums are for right?

^ Think you owe Kelly a bottle of rum or something, giving you the fix and not using it isnt his fault.


Was wondering how much it cost at the dealer. Dam Iam stupid, price was right there and I couldnt see it.......... Hell, I wasnt even drinking. :)

You know, I was thinking some carb cleaner/starter fluid up thru the side/mesh in the air box.... that baby would have lit :D

lol... I'm sure you would volunteer to go pick it up, too, wouldn't you? ;)


yeah, sucks that we were one step away from solving it, but I can only imagine working in the freezing cold while sick is no picnic. Sometimes it's better to know when to surrender.

Besides, he's only owned the bike for a week and I'm sure he didn't want to screw it up going down the wrong path following some internet hack. :p

Perhaps in the future the weather, his health and confidence level of the advice given on this board will improve.

lol... I'm sure you would volunteer to go pick it up, too, wouldn't you? ;)


yeah, sucks that we were one step away from solving it, but I can only imagine working in the freezing cold while sick is no picnic. Sometimes it's better to know when to surrender.

Besides, he's only owned the bike for a week and I'm sure he didn't want to screw it up going down the wrong path following some internet hack. :p

Perhaps in the future the weather, his health and confidence level of the advice given on this board will improve.

You're right on... as usual. :thumbup:

You know, I was thinking some carb cleaner/starter fluid up thru the side/mesh in the air box.... that baby would have lit :D

Been there, done that! The only problem is the water in the bowl. If it's a lot, the engine stops. If only a little, maybe a slight miss. Too much starter fluid and we have other problems, i.e. kind of like the first "pig in space"! :eek:

Need some of you gurus for the old-gen!

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=31256#post31256

/end hijack :o

I had a similar problem. I was never not able to turn it over, but It was extremely cold hearted and did not want to idle. I took it back to the Dealer who found that one of the Carbs was clogged. He waranteed it out and it didn't cost me a dime. Runs great now. I went back for the first service and have just put the first 1,000 miles on it.

This bike is great. Fun good looking and not scary.

No start, check for spark by removing spark plug with spark plug wire connected then crank it over. Good spark means good ignition, no spark means bad ignition.
Next spray starter fluid into the carburetor (with air filter removed) then crank (10-15 sec.). if it starts and run for a few seconds then the carb/fuel supply isn' supplying fuel. Check fuel flow, if ok then its clogged jets. If not then the fuel source is bad (no fuel flow to carb). If those don't do it, then most likely no compression, or ign. timing is way off (this would be indicated by backfiring and/or extremely rough running and lots of black smoke). One other item would be a safety lockout switch not operating or bad sensor. If these don't help then take two Advil and call a professional in the morning.
All ignition combustion engines operate on the same principals, but there are literally thousands of configurations, and someone that is familiar with your engine would be the most help with a hard to troubleshoot problem.
By the way ethanol has an octane rating of 115, and will mix with water, and gas, this is why Dry gas works.