Everybody knows what a PITA the factory recommended break in is.
It hasnt changed since the 60's but everything about modern bikes has ( maybe except for urals and Enfields)
But...there is a quicker way that is absolutely not recommended because maybe nobody wants to be blamed if something goes wrong.
Yeah...the horn dont work...hmmmm..improper break in procedure ? Personally..I have not heard of a failure blamed on improper break in for a long time but I'm no authority. So...take this for whatever it's worth:
When you take delivery or if you just took delivery...get a filter wrench, a socket or box wrench that fits the drain plug, at least 2 filters( be sure they have rings) and at least 2 gallons of oil. Also...ask for 2 extra crush washers.( a true crush washer is laminated and seen from the side it has 2 distinct layers..they're good for at least 2 changes but not recommended for more)....and a tray or something to drain into ( shallow and flat works best...WalMart $2)) and a load of paper towels. And a flexible neck funnel.( Wal Mart for like $1)
At this point, you have no excuse not to do the oil change and everything you need to do it. If you have the $$...a rear stand and of course spools for the swingarm make the job very easy and a lot neater. If not....it's a lot neater if you can find a way to keep the bike vertical because oil comes out slow and will run all over the underside of the engine if it's tilted even a little.
ride the bike 50 miles ( could be 45, could be100) and shift more than you need to and use the rpm range ( I keep it below 6k but I dont know that you MUST run it that slow)
After the engine is cool enough to touch...
Change the oil and filter ( be real careful removing the filter...it drips and 1 drop dripping onto your pipe will make it smoke...2 drops finding their way into that little dimple where the pipes join will make it smoke a whole lot...just clean the pipe as best you can when they're cool) so you dont get all nervous when you restart it.
I usually start the filer with a wrench and finish taking it off with a bunch of paper towels in my hand...kept at the lowest part of the filter to catch the drips.
Run for another 50-100 miles and keep shifting, braking and using the rpm's a lot.
Change the oil only this time (or you can do the filer too...can't hurt)
Run it another .....
Change the oil and filter.
At this point I believe the bike is ready to run.
Riding it after work and changing the oil before the ride (when the engine wont burn you),,,this takes 3 days, about 300 miles
and if anybody disagrees with this...please say something. Personally...I have not seen any probs blamed on improper break in since the 60's and really,,,that was because the mechanic didnt know what else to blame it on. .
Or, take your time and follow factory instrux if you're more confident in that.

"Break in shmake in." I rode my 300 normally from the beginning, took it to 105 mph in the first 15 miles.

"Break in shmake in." I rode my 300 normally from the beginning, took it to 105 mph in the first 15 miles.

You're crazy. I waited twice as long to go that, 30 miles. I did avoid the limiter until after my first oil change.

I broke in my 300 hard and changed the oil early.

I took her out today and was surprised by the higher mid range. I had kept around 6k till today.
Catching up to the big boys always took what seemed like a long time on the ninjette. The 300 catches up much quicker and at 102...it had a little more. I'm starting to like it.

I can't wait til I can go past 6k RPM.

I can only dream to have a 300.

I can't wait til I can go past 6k RPM.

Me too!

I don't know how its even possible to keep this bike under 6k RPM. I road it pretty hard for the first 600 miles and then got the first service done. I wish I would have changed the oil after 60 miles like most people do but I didn't.

Not too worried about it though.

I don't know how its even possible to keep this bike under 6k RPM. I road it pretty hard for the first 600 miles and then got the first service done. I wish I would have changed the oil after 60 miles like most people do but I didn't.

Not too worried about it though.

Is that like I-tune, I-pod, I-spell? Just kidding, I'm sure at sometime in my life I might have made a mistake.

Besides, I was born in Pennsyltuckey too.

I can only dream to have a 300.

You can ride my 300 if I can ride one of your supa dupa fast ones :thumbup:

Is that like I-tune, I-pod, I-spell? Just kidding, I'm sure at sometime in my life I might have made a mistake.

Besides, I was born in Pennsyltuckey too.

Hahaha damn....

.
Riding it after work and changing the oil before the ride (when the engine wont burn you),,,this takes 3 days, about 300 miles
and if anybody disagrees with this...please say something.

FYI, the proper oil change procedure is to ride the bike first, and then drain the oil out while it's hot.

The oil flows better when it's warm than when it's cold, so you'll get more of the used oil out by doing this than you would if you changed it with the engine cold. The oil coming out is undeniably uncomfortably warm, and you should wear gloves to keep from getting it on your skin, but I've never actually had it burn me.

just got 1 300SE

Kawasaki told me after 1000km change oil

they do it for me


I did speed up a bit few times, just forgot myself, hope it be fine :)

so far no issues with bike

Everybody knows what a PITA the factory recommended break in is.
It hasnt changed since the 60's but everything about modern bikes has ( maybe except for urals and Enfields)
But...there is a quicker way that is absolutely not recommended because maybe nobody wants to be blamed if something goes wrong.
Yeah...the horn dont work...hmmmm..improper break in procedure ? Personally..I have not heard of a failure blamed on improper break in for a long time but I'm no authority. So...take this for whatever it's worth:
When you take delivery or if you just took delivery...get a filter wrench, a socket or box wrench that fits the drain plug, at least 2 filters( be sure they have rings) and at least 2 gallons of oil. Also...ask for 2 extra crush washers.( a true crush washer is laminated and seen from the side it has 2 distinct layers..they're good for at least 2 changes but not recommended for more)....and a tray or something to drain into ( shallow and flat works best...WalMart $2)) and a load of paper towels. And a flexible neck funnel.( Wal Mart for like $1)
At this point, you have no excuse not to do the oil change and everything you need to do it. If you have the $$...a rear stand and of course spools for the swingarm make the job very easy and a lot neater. If not....it's a lot neater if you can find a way to keep the bike vertical because oil comes out slow and will run all over the underside of the engine if it's tilted even a little.
ride the bike 50 miles ( could be 45, could be100) and shift more than you need to and use the rpm range ( I keep it below 6k but I dont know that you MUST run it that slow)
After the engine is cool enough to touch...
Change the oil and filter ( be real careful removing the filter...it drips and 1 drop dripping onto your pipe will make it smoke...2 drops finding their way into that little dimple where the pipes join will make it smoke a whole lot...just clean the pipe as best you can when they're cool) so you dont get all nervous when you restart it.
I usually start the filer with a wrench and finish taking it off with a bunch of paper towels in my hand...kept at the lowest part of the filter to catch the drips.
Run for another 50-100 miles and keep shifting, braking and using the rpm's a lot.
Change the oil only this time (or you can do the filer too...can't hurt)
Run it another .....
Change the oil and filter.
At this point I believe the bike is ready to run.
Riding it after work and changing the oil before the ride (when the engine wont burn you),,,this takes 3 days, about 300 miles
and if anybody disagrees with this...please say something. Personally...I have not seen any probs blamed on improper break in since the 60's and really,,,that was because the mechanic didnt know what else to blame it on. .
Or, take your time and follow factory instrux if you're more confident in that.

Way to much IMO.. I broke in the 250 w 2 oil changes (100 miles and 300 miles) and redlined it from 7 miles+. Never had an issue w mine, sold it w/ 10k+ miles.

I do believe most engines are truely broken in at factory during their testing....

I don't think you need all that oil-changing to break it in.

The basics of break-in are seating of the rings and parts wearing together. There will be metal removed as the parts wear, but it's the oil filter's job to catch those.

The single most important thing to do is seat the rings IMO. That's done with engine load - not RPM. To seat the rings you want a high load on the engine, but without bogging or detonating. To get that heavy load you shift early and apply a lot of throttle. You are pulling hard but not revving high. Make sure the engine is fully warm. This needs to be done sooner rather than later with a new engine.

Changing the oil and filter at 500 mi is more than adequate. Waiting until the next oil change to run synthetic is a safe bet.

Running a new engine gently doesn't give you the pressures you need to properly seat the rings, that's why people say run it hard. I'd say load it hard, but not rev it hard.

Yes

I ran it as I normally would ride it. Varied rpms and didn't load it up too much (ie crack the throttle open hard). too much heat can cause glazing in the cylinder walls and not create a proper seals. I agree the manufacturer break in is a bit over the top but they do that to avoid liability issues.

It is all pretty much BS!
They stopped bothering you with engine brake-in for cars years ago.
The precision and technology isn't what it used to be. Just ride normally (but not like a maniac) and you will be fine.
Don't think you need all these extra oil changes either. Again the level of production precision is very hight today, you will not have a pound of shaved off crap of your engine in under 600 miles. The filter will catch the small amount that will be present there.