I've never adjusted the preload on a rear shock. Looks easy enough in the manual. My owners manual says that it is preset to a 1 from the factory for a 150 lb rider, and higher setting are for heavier loads.

I weigh 205. What's the best setting?

What will changing the setting actually do?

hangin here to see the answer. im curious as well.

Well I am not an expert but I think the answer is subjective; based off of what you like. I am 5'10" and weigh 175-180 Lbs and I like my preload set to the 3rd position.

What does it actually do? Limit the range of travel? Pre compression? I guess I'll figure it out when I put a wrench on it.

There's the "in a perfect world" answer, and then there's the "when it comes to our ninjettes" answer. I'll try and give both as concisely as feasible. :D

Preload on motorcycle shock is primarily used to set the sag. Sag is the drop in height of the suspension from unloaded to loaded. (I.E. rider not on bike, compared to rider on bike). Correct sag is important so the suspension is working within its comfort zone as much as possible, and the bike should be kept level front to rear (or if not exactly level, at the expected or chosen angle, rather than at an unintended angle due to suspension issues). In general, recommended sag is somewhere between 1/3 - 1/4 of the full travel of the suspension, so usually somewhere between 1 and 1.5 inches. You really need a helper to set it up correctly, who can help you measure the differences from loaded to unloaded. Once preload is set, then you start working on the other adjustments (compression damping and rebound damping) so the shock works as expected over a variety of conditions.

But on the ninjette, all we can adjust is preload. So adjusting it not only sets the sag, but it's the only way we can really adjust the stiffness of the rear end. On more powerful bikes, there are downsides to setting the rear end too stiff. Mainly, traction issues come up and the rear wheel can spin much more easily coming off of corners, and can lose grip quicker even coming into corners. This just isn't an issue with the Ninjette, no matter what you do to the suspension, we will never be able to spin the rear tire under any conditions, so you simply can't make the rear end too stiff to run into that problem. The stiffer you adjust the rear, you are slightly adjusting the geometry of the bike to be pitched forward a little bit, which does speed up the steering. The only real downside to going to stiff on the rear on the ninjette is ride comfort. For a certain size bump, the stiffer you have the rear preload on, the more you're going to feel it.

There's no right answer for "the perfect setting", but it's likely that position 1 isn't correct for you. Start adjusting it, ride it, see what you like or don't like about the new position and adjust it again until you're happy. The lack of adjustability on our suspension makes things pretty simple for us. If we had hispeed/lowspeed compression damping, rebound damping, preload adjustment, and separate ride height adjustment, getting things dialed in can become a terribly complicated process. We have a choice of 1 through 5 on one setting. :) Personally, I prefer ours all the way stiff (5). Most feedback, most stability when entering and exiting turns, and even at the stiffest it really isn't all that stiff. On a sportbike, it would be more like the middle setting if anything.

I did it. It was easy. I went straight to 5, and I like it right there. I might back off a notch or two for mountain road runs though. 5 is pretty stiff. The bike barely settles at all when I sit on it.

1. It's easier from the chain side because you can push the spanner.

2. If you're wearing a ring it may get boogered up, or it may hurt you. When the collar breaks loose, it does so suddenly.

3. I think the Kawasaki tool kit would be MUCH cooler if each tool were branded with 'Kawasaki'.

lol... you'll find out if 5 is too stiff once you hit some bad/bumpy road sections. :D

It was pretty rough set on 1 :eek:

I test rode the 5 setting on a curvy, newly paved road. Kind of like a track. You're right. After a few good pot holes I may back off.

o0o0o0o0o0o!!!! kkim vs alex....who will win:D

My main issue with the rear shock is the lack of a rebound damping control. On #1 the shock compresses a lot but rebounds WAY too fast. At 160 lbs setting 2 seems the best for real world riding. Position 3 actually feels best for spirited riding but bumpy roads beat me up so it's back to #2 for me.

Tim

Hey, be careful the first time you get up to highway speeds after setting the preload from one extreme to the other. The bike may behave a lot differently at speed or hitting small bumps than you're used to.

I have my preload at 2 and I'm about 207lbs. But I'm a cream puff Cadillac kind of guy. :couch2:

Preload on motorcycle shock is primarily used to set the sag. Sag is the drop in height of the suspension from unloaded to loaded. (I.E. rider not on bike, compared to rider on bike). Correct sag is important so the suspension is working within its comfort zone as much as possible, and the bike should be kept level front to rear (or if not exactly level, at the expected or chosen angle, rather than at an unintended angle due to suspension issues). In general, recommended sag is somewhere between 1/3 - 1/4 of the full travel of the suspension, so usualy somewhere between 1 and 1.5 inches. You really need a helper to set it up correctly, who can help you measure the differences from loaded to unloaded. Once preload is set, then you start working on the other adjustments (compression damping and rebound damping) so the shock works as expected over a variety of conditions.

Watch how the travel is measured here:

http://www.onthethrottle.tv/pages/page/showroom_susp_08_ninja_250/207_625_932

Thx Sam! Dave's a good guy, he's held a couple suspension setup days for the MSMC, and has helped get my trackbike's suspension sorted a number of times. He's engaged to one of our past MSMC members (who's actually his 3rd model on the bike, that's Lisa!). Only thing I missed in that video was what setting he had the bike on when he was measuring sag. I assume it was set at the stock setting if it had correct sag for Lisa, but I would have liked to see the sag measurement with the back preload maxed and the 240 lb rider on it.

Awwww: :p

http://www.ciurczak.com/photos/279057519_tKFL4-L.jpg

o0o0o0o0o0o!!!! kkim vs alex....who will win:D

ummm.... dunno. Alex, wouldn't it be just easier to ban him? :D

Alex,

When I saw that video last week, it kinda ticked me off since he said the bike was only suitable for 110-140 lb rider. I'm 195 and started on a preload of 1 and now I have it set at 3. Based on your thoughts, maybe I should go to 5. Maybe in a few weeks. The bike definitely is better in the turns set on 3.

I am 5"11 135lbs. What do you say the preload should be set on? I like 2 for now but is 3 the best position? (3, so it would be stiff and passenger ready)

I am 5"11 135lbs.

Forget the preload. Start eating more. :D

I'm 5'7", 145-150lb and have only had the damper set to 1... would 2 be more appropriate? I will be riding 2-up occasionally.. she weighs around 100-105lb - would 2 be OK for that (I would assume 1 would be way too low for 2-up riding)?

Oh, another thing to keep in mind is if you're inseam-challenged like I am, setting the dampers low can help you plant your feet at a stop

Forget the preload. Start eating more. :D

:mad: this i know alex. this i know. :(

I'm 67", 135, preload is at 1 now, when I got the bike, P/O had it at 4, beat me to death on some of the roads here. Changed it to one, thanks sound_wave, and it rides mucho better, and I can get my feet down better. As for eating, it doesn't help. I went 5 months, eating 3 meals a day, plus an extra 3000 calories of weight gainer/protein and working out hard with the weights, (thats how I got a SLAP tear in my rt shoulder) and gained 5 lbs.

nb

I'm 67", 135, preload is at 1 now, when I got the bike, P/O had it at 4, beat me to death on some of the roads here. Changed it to one, thanks sound_wave, and it rides mucho better, and I can get my feet down better. As for eating, it doesn't help. I went 5 months, eating 3 meals a day, plus an extra 3000 calories of weight gainer/protein and working out hard with the weights, (thats how I got a SLAP tear in my rt shoulder) and gained 5 lbs.

nb

haha I feel your pain. I'm stuck at 135 as well. Consider yourself lucky, though. I tried 4-5 meals a day with weight gainer, creatine, and weights and I gained 2 lbs. :rolleyes:

But off the lot, my preload was set at 1. It does feel a bit mushy in the turns so I'll be trying 2 if it still feels that way after break-in.

LOL, add me to the 135lb group! :D

People who know me and the amount I eat and can't believe it. I am constantly eating, during the day, an hour or two after a large dinner, I am hungry again. Yet, I am not gaining weight...

Anywho, mine was set to 1 off the lot. I have it set to 3 now and it feels much firmer. It is really the riders own personal preference with this I believe. :2cents:

I am 6'1 225 lbs and the #2 setting seems to work best for me. The bike just felt unstable on 3. I may try it again some time this summer to see if it may have just been the day.

Damn... 135? I can bench press that. If you're still looking to gain some weight, eat more saturated fats (9 kcal/gram) than proteins (4 kcal/gram) and carbohydrates (4kcal/gram). Calories in calories out.

Back on topic though the 3rd position has a lot of feed back for me at 170-80; almost feels like I am jumping in the air. So I am kinda reluctant to try Alex's suggestion about position 5. But at the moment I think I would like the 2nd position better because I like to just cruise and protect the boys.

I am 6'1 225 lbs and the #2 setting seems to work best for me. The bike just felt unstable on 3. I may try it again some time this summer to see if it may have just been the day.
Brian - I know what you mean about the unstable feeling - I had adjusted mine up to 2, but the combination of it being on 2, running higher tire pressures, and lowering the bike made it feel really unstable to me, so I went back to 1 where I felt safer - I think it's probably more mental than anything, but I felt better there, so that's where it will stay :)

Damn... 135? I can bench press that.

But at the moment I think I would like the 2nd position better because I like to just cruise and protect the boys.

lol shut up. We know it sucks, but atleast I can say stuff like I can almost bench 150% of my weight. Very few 200lbers can say that :D

back to business. so 2nd is better for the boys? Cause I haven't tried the others yet, but 1 is painful!

I dropped mine from 5 back to 3 today, and I think I'll leave it right there. It's a little softer, making for a little more dynamic ride (but not all squishy).

It was hard to break the collar loose going from 5 to 4, but once I removed the chain guard, and used the cheater bar included in the tool kit, it broke free pretty easily.

+1 to Kawasaki for the better suspension on the new generation (and the cheater in the tool kit).

:outlaw4:

Well changed over to 2 last week from 1. And the bike feels alot more stable now. On stock settings, the rear would seem like it was compressing/losing grip when I went into turns and rebounded alot more than I wanted it to. 2 so far seems great. A bit tighter than ideal but alot better feel than 1.

And for those doing it for the first time, definitely take off the chain guard and use the bar with extender. Pushing it from the left side was no problem!

Thx Sam! Dave's a good guy, he's held a couple suspension setup days for the MSMC, and has helped get my trackbike's suspension sorted a number of times. He's engaged to one of our past MSMC members (who's actually his 3rd model on the bike, that's Lisa!). Only thing I missed in that video was what setting he had the bike on when he was measuring sag. I assume it was set at the stock setting if it had correct sag for Lisa, but I would have liked to see the sag measurement with the back preload maxed and the 240 lb rider on it.

Awwww: :p

http://www.ciurczak.com/photos/279057519_tKFL4-L.jpg

Shes a hottie:D smokin

I think 5 was overkill but whatever your comfortable with. 3 probably is ideal for you. I'm pretty sure this is all in the manual.

Hey Hey I'm 145 and I can bench over 200!:D

Well changed over to 2 last week from 1. And the bike feels alot more stable now. On stock settings, the rear would seem like it was compressing/losing grip when I went into turns and rebounded alot more than I wanted it to. 2 so far seems great. A bit tighter than ideal but alot better feel than 1.

And for those doing it for the first time, definitely take off the chain guard and use the bar with extender. Pushing it from the left side was no problem!

Yeah I like 2 myself. I don't wanna say it but I told ya so:D

I'll move up to 3 I think when my bike returns.

At 220 lbs, it should be a good starting point.

I'll move up to 3 I think when my bike returns.

At 220 lbs, it should be a good starting point.

FYI..At 195 lbs, mine is set on 3. I'm considering going to 5, after reading what Alex stated in post #5, above. 3 is much better than 1 and I will bet 5 is probably best. :thumbup:

Shes a hottie:D smokin

Lisa joined us on the SMR today (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=47051&postcount=5), and she wanted some pics of her on the bike. :thumbup: Dave wasn't able to make it; he was working at a trackday in SoCal.

FYI..At 195 lbs, mine is set on 3. I'm considering going to 5, after reading what Alex stated in post #5, above. 3 is much better than 1 and I will bet 5 is probably best. :thumbup:

I'm 200, and pretty happy with a 3 right now. I rode with it on 5 for a week or two, but that's just a little too stiff on the bumps. 3 is good and solid, but provides a little give on the rough stuff.

At 160 lbs I have mine at 3 and enjoy some spirited riding. Looking at everyone else's I'm starting this might be a little much.

im like 120 lbs... yes i know im small... :( soo please bust my chops away.... but im wondering if i should go to 2 as well... what do you think???

im like 120 lbs... yes i know im small... :( soo please bust my chops away.... but im wondering if i should go to 2 as well... what do you think???

I suggest you try it. only to see if it suits you.
You can always change it back :D

I'm at 2 bucks, and #3 is good. Not too hard, not too soft, juussssst riiiiight......

Damn... 135? I can bench press that. If you're still looking to gain some weight, eat more saturated fats (9 kcal/gram) than proteins (4 kcal/gram) and carbohydrates (4kcal/gram). Calories in calories out.

Back on topic though the 3rd position has a lot of feed back for me at 170-80; almost feels like I am jumping in the air. So I am kinda reluctant to try Alex's suggestion about position 5. But at the moment I think I would like the 2nd position better because I like to just cruise and protect the boys.

haha Yeah but I'm a 135 and can bench press you..so Ill just keep my regular diet, I have mine set to 2 and it feels just about right....its my first motorcycle so I might not know what Im doing with the suspension fully but I think I have it right.

haha Yeah but I'm a 135 and can bench press you..so Ill just keep my regular diet, I have mine set to 2 and it feels just about right....its my first motorcycle so I might not know what Im doing with the suspension fully but I think I have it right.

Strange how that works isn't it :D
You coming to the NE ride?

Strange how that works isn't it :D
You coming to the NE ride?

I have no information on it...have a link ?

I have no information on it...have a link ?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=17061

and I could use some company on the ride down :thumbup:

Hey! I'm with ya too:)

lol but only after I've already been on the road for a couple of hours... unless you want to come up to Toronto and meet first :rolleyes::thumbup:

na... no need to back track:)

NE ride! NE ride! WOOHOO!!

FYI..At 195 lbs, mine is set on 3. I'm considering going to 5, after reading what Alex stated in post #5, above. 3 is much better than 1 and I will bet 5 is probably best. :thumbup:

I'll try three first, Sam. Thanks!

Up another 3 lbs. At 6'3"/223 lbs, I may be the biggest 2Fiddy pilot here. :rofl:

Keep in mind that preload is well "pre" load as stated above it sets the sag and controls the initial travel. If you are way oversized or way undersized then a different spring might be needed (not sure if the aftermarket has any or if you would need an aftermarket shock.)

185lbs, want to set my pre-load to 3 tonight when i get home

how do i remove the chain guard? (was reading the manual saying i had to remove it before adjusting the preload)

Chain guard comes off with just two screws, it will be clear when you're looking at it. I removed the chain guard to adjust the preload the very first time, but folks have been able to do it without removing that guard, and I probably won't remove it if I need to adjust the preload again.

look at the DIY about adjusting the preload in the wiki ;)

Sorry to dig up an older thread, but I am wondering if I need a different spring?? I'm 115lbs and my pre-load is set to 1. I feel like I'm riding a hard-tail bicycle! (but with a cushier seat)... I'm not sure what is normal and what isn't, as this is my first bike. Will the suspension soften over time? I've only had the thing for 4 days, after all...

what are your tire pressures?

28psi front, 32psi rear. Checked and refilled 4 days ago at the dealership before I left with it.

The shock will get a bit more comfy over time, but at your weight it might not. Keep riding it and see.

Are you planning to lower your bike?

I don't have any immediate plans to, as I feel comfortable stopping and such as long as I have my boots on. :) When these boots die I will have a problem, though. If I can't find suitable replacement boots I will lower it. They have about half an inch of lift overall in the sole.

Are there any boots made specifically for riding that will have that sort of lift? I'm thinking it'd be better to get tightly-fitted boots. Mine might slip off if I end up sliding along pavement...

Well, I was asking as lowering might help soften the rear with a different leverage ratio the linkage would provide.

you could also lower the rear pressure to about 28 psi and see if that helps. I run 28/28 on my bike and have had no ill effects from doing so. A few PSI in tires make a big difference in feel. I wouldn't recommend going much lower than those pressures, though.

I will try lowering the pressure as a quick fix. Thanks for the tip!

Please let us know if it makes a difference for you.

I need a solution for my suspension issue. I'm too heavy for the ninja. If I hit a bump too hard, my fat ass causes the rear suspension to bottom out. I have a BikeLitez SS FE kit installed with the fiberglass undertail and I think I may have bottomed out enough to rub the license plate and detach the LED license plate light. Is there a suspension solution out there for me?

Oh and hi Mr. Kim! :D
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well, look who the cat dragged home! :p

http://store.racebikerentals.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=0001&Product_Code=ELKA2WAY&Category_Code=

well, look who the cat dragged home! :p

http://store.racebikerentals.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=0001&Product_Code=ELKA2WAY&Category_Code=

Sweet six hundred dollar Christ! :eek:

Good to see ya. :D

I've been getting my ass kicked at work (not literally). Ninja is well, with 1,100 miles from the commute (14 miles RT) and a few excursions. I guess I better work some OT if I want to afford one of those. Is anyone here an expert on these rear shocks? I notice they are "custom built" to the rider's weight and riding style. Do they really work??

I need something strong for my 230 lbs frame.

Yikes! $100 mark up over retail, too!

NINJA 250 (08-09)
REAR (unit) SPRING SET-UP* TYPE ADJUSTMENT(S) PART #
MSRP. (US$)
STOCK GEOMETRY (36mm) Single Rate Non-Reservoir Preload & Rebound E36R/1-WAY
$495.00

http://www.elkasuspension.com/products/kawasaki-moto.html

Obvious question is, have you bumped up the stock shock preload to #5, yet?

I'm guessing some of the premium charged by Richard covers the setting up of the shock based on the weight and riding style...

I also found this package for those interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&item=250435111753&ru=http://shop.ebay.com:80/%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp3907.m38.l1313%26_nkw%3D250435111753%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&viewitem=#ht_3321wt_943

http://www.rentmyninja.com/

Go to store... these guys claimed to have helped Elka develop the components. This package comes with replacement fork springs! $570 plus shipping.

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/5/4/1/4/1/7/webimg/271151853_tp.jpg

Obvious question is, have you bumped up the stock shock preload to #5, yet?

:D

I did that a long time ago. It rides okay except for the suspension bottoming out on *ANY* bump I go over. It'll get worse if I ride with cargo. I think I'm gonna have them build it for a 250 pound payload since I'm planning on some Cortech bags which will tax it even more.

um, the shock Richard sells is a 2 (compression and rebound adjustable) way. the stuff you're looking at isn't, hence the price diff. the remote reservoir is the giveaway.

um, the shock Richard sells is a 2 (compression and rebound adjustable) way. the stuff you're looking at isn't, hence the price diff. the remote reservoir is the giveaway.

Shows what I know! :D

Next question... do I need rebound adjustment on a street only application?

I can't say, but when I asked Richard about the shock you've linked, he said it was junk and wouldn't recommend it and which is why he doesn't sell it. Others may have different opinions on this, so perhaps they will post up their experience. In the end, you'll need to be the judge.

I can't say, but when I asked Richard about the shock you've linked, he said it was junk and wouldn't recommend it and which is why he doesn't sell it. Others may have different opinions on this, so perhaps they will post up their experience. In the end, you'll need to be the judge.

Your and Richard's experience are held in high regard by me. You know I'm not one to go cheap with mods. What do you think about replacing the fork springs?

If the front is diving when you brake and "bottoms", yes you need some stiffer springs. I think there was a post recently about how much improvement there was to the forks with just a spring change... or am I imagining it?

First, how heavy are you? I'm 220 without gear and I have not bottomed the rear shock yet, even on some pretty big dips and bumps. I have the preload set to 5 which is the best I can do at the moment for correct sag. The shock is also settling in a little and becoming a little more compliant, but I don't forsee it getting so loose to bottom out.

On another note... one thing a lot of people don't consider when making suspension preload/sag adjusments is the effect the front has on the rear and vise versa. If you raise the rear by jacking up the preload, you put more weight on the front end and less on the rear. On a stock front end with those pitiful .45 or so springs, it means lots of sag up front and lots of weight transfer, making the problem even worse. This translates to an overweighted front end that dives excessively and bottoms easily, bobs and pogos, and generally under damped on the 250. The rear end now becomes light, and even more over damped causing a very harsh ride. Back problems anyone?

Ideally, sag adjustments (suspension preload) should be made to both the front and back at the same time. Change the rear, the front changes as well. They need to be 'balanced'. Fortunately, the shock on the Current-Gen 250 is surprisingly adequate for the heavier rider for such a small bike, just a little over damped for street. I'd dare say 'adequate' sag can be found for people up to 220 - 230 lbs or so on the 5th setting. Unfortunately, as per above, you need to properly setup the front which means replacing or cutting the stock springs, then using spacers to achieve correct sag. For my weight, I'm finding a set of .85 springs + the rear preload set to 5 a pretty good setup until my Elka comes in. Don't get me wrong, the rear is still over damped and on the harsh side, but much more livable with the front end raised to the correct sag.

There's a huge art to suspension tuning, but almost everyone agrees that front and rear sag should be set correctly at the same time.

If you're around my weight and bottoming out the rear end consistently on small bumps, something is wrong with your shock!

First, how heavy are you? I'm 220 without gear and I have not bottomed the rear shock yet, even on some pretty big dips and bumps. I have the preload set to 5 which is the best I can do at the moment for correct sag. The shock is also settling in a little and becoming a little more compliant, but I don't forsee it getting so loose to bottom out.

On another note... one thing a lot of people don't consider when making suspension preload/sag adjusments is the effect the front has on the rear and vise versa. If you raise the rear by jacking up the preload, you put more weight on the front end and less on the rear. On a stock front end with those pitiful .45 or so springs, it means lots of sag up front and lots of weight transfer, making the problem even worse. This translates to an overweighted front end that dives excessively and bottoms easily, bobs and pogos, and generally under damped on the 250. The rear end now becomes light, and even more over damped causing a very harsh ride. Back problems anyone?

Ideally, sag adjustments (suspension preload) should be made to both the front and back at the same time. Change the rear, the front changes as well. They need to be 'balanced'. Fortunately, the shock on the Current-Gen 250 is surprisingly adequate for the heavier rider for such a small bike, just a little over damped for street. I'd dare say 'adequate' sag can be found for people up to 220 - 230 lbs or so on the 5th setting. Unfortunately, as per above, you need to properly setup the front which means replacing or cutting the stock springs, then using spacers to achieve correct sag. For my weight, I'm finding a set of .85 springs + the rear preload set to 5 a pretty good setup until my Elka comes in. Don't get me wrong, the rear is still over damped and on the harsh side, but much more livable with the front end raised to the correct sag.

There's a huge art to suspension tuning, but almost everyone agrees that front and rear sag should be set correctly at the same time.

If you're around my weight and bottoming out the rear end consistently on small bumps, something is wrong with your shock!

I'm 225 lbs tonight without any gear.

I'm saving pennies for Richard's ELKA two way. I want to pick up the proper fork springs as well and install them/have them installed at the same time.

The stock shock is set to 5 right now. My riding style has me ass against the pad on my seat cowl. I keep my crotch area off and out of the tank. I have a set of the Buell footpegs I'm gonna install one of these days too. Just need to get them set up and figure out what all needs to be adjusted in the way of cabling afterward.

Cochese, did it start bottoming out recently or has it always bottomed out for you? I'm just wondering because I am about 205 without gear, have the preload set at 3 and have not had an issue. I've even ridden 2 up with my wife without an issue either, although these have been short trips with no big bumps.

Well, I haven't noticed an issue until recently. With ATG and a tank bag full of three pistols and 400 rounds of ammo, it may have just been too much.

As luck would have it, my shop wants to buy my stock stuff back, including exhaust and fender so the Elka may come faster than I hoped!
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I have a set of the Buell footpegs I'm gonna install one of these days too. Just need to get them set up and figure out what all needs to be adjusted in the way of cabling afterward.

Where have you been, man? I know the VCAs (violent criminal actors for the laymen) never rest; thus, your job is never done.

You REALLY need to install those Buell pegs TODAY! They are a world of difference (I'm 6'2"/200 lbs). My post http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=17572&highlight=buell+pegs gives you all the detail adjustments. The hardest part is machining (grinder, dremel, and/or file....your choice).

Since I posted this DIY, I have removed the "feelers", not that I'm leaning that far, but I got tired of them hitting my legs, while backing out of my garage. They simply unscrew.

Stay safe!! :D

Well, I haven't noticed an issue until recently. With ATG and a tank bag full of three pistols and 400 rounds of ammo, it may have just been too much.

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:eek: Along with 3 pistols, 400 rounds, geez that can be HEAVY.

nb

I can't believe you only carry 3 pistols! :eek:

I was heading to a GSSF match at the time. Normally I just keep a Springfield EMP and two or three mags with me. :P

...and gimme a break! I only have one Ninja, I have 7 Glocks and over 9,000 posts on Glock Talk! :D

Hey guys,

I think my shock price is actually $100 under MSRP. Thanks, Kelly for clearing that up! If you guys find something out of line with my price, please let me know, but it should be pretty cheap.

For the front springs, I know this is not a very popular answer, but I feel the stock springs with 15 weight oil is the best setup. I ran Racetech springs for 2 weekends in my bike and HATED them! Our little Ninja Turtles are spindly little things. A stiff front end creates all sorts of problems (in my experience). The bike likes a very soft suspension setup up front. Yes, the bike does dive quite a bit, but heavier oil will solve a lot of that. Anyway, just my 0.02 :)

Hey guys,

I think my shock price is actually $100 under MSRP. Thanks, Kelly for clearing that up! If you guys find something out of line with my price, please let me know, but it should be pretty cheap.

For the front springs, I know this is not a very popular answer, but I feel the stock springs with 15 weight oil is the best setup. I ran Racetech springs for 2 weekends in my bike and HATED them! Our little Ninja Turtles are spindly little things. A stiff front end creates all sorts of problems (in my experience). The bike likes a very soft suspension setup up front. Yes, the bike does dive quite a bit, but heavier oil will solve a lot of that. Anyway, just my 0.02 :)



Richard,

Thanks for the info. I'm ordering an Elka from you soon either directly or through my shop. I'll also forward them your opinion on the fork springs. Hopefully, oil will cure what ails my fat ass! :D


Thanks...

Jason
Posted via Mobile Device

Question. Am I supposed to be able to see a number somewhere on the shock to see what the current setting is at?

You can tell by just looking at what position the ring is in. Great pics in this thread:

DIY - Adjusting the rear shock preload (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11956)