Since kkim covered clip-ons I figured a DIY for rearsets will round of the list nicely.
I'm placing this in this the tech talk just because the clip-ons are here however if this is better suited for farkles feel free to move it.

To start off you obviously need rearsets
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/1756/imgp0284.jpg

This is almost everything that came with the set, a small tube of loctite is also thrown in.

Before we begin another picture just for fun... the bike about as naked as it gets
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/8906/imgp0285.jpg

I began by changing the left side first, it doesn't really matter which side goes first.
Begin by removing the two screws circled in red below
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/7338/imgp0287.jpg

The footrest will now be connected only by the shift rod, simply unscrew the rod closest to the crankcase and you'll be able to completely remove the footrest with shift rod.

Next screw in your new shift rod into the connector
http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/7036/imgp0295.jpg

Now it's time to assemble the rearset
First start off by connecting the the fin like piece to the rearset with the 2 small M6 hex bolts provided (circled in red below).
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/9567/imgp0289.jpg

Now connect the pegs to the rearset, there are 5 positions to choose from here, I chose the middle most position. A black spacer needs to be placed on the reverse side of the rearset. The bolt should be torqued to 17 ft lb.
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/908/imgp0291.jpg

Now it's time to mount the rearset to the bike, 2 thick spacers need to be placed on the reverse side of the rearset and some loctite placed on the bolts.
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/3215/imgp0296.jpg

You should now have the rearset on the bike like pictured below. Make sure when mounting the rearset that you keep the shift lever above the sidestand, once the rearset is on if the lever is below the stand you can't connect it to the shift rod. If you look in the picture below I made that mistake first time around.
http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/7748/imgp0297.jpg

Now it's time to connect the shift rod to the rearset, a special bolt with a copper spacer is provided for that. Here is how it should be connected.
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/8415/imgp0292.jpg

And one final image of the rearset installed, all that's left now is adjusting the lever height.
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/7445/imgp0298.jpg

Now to do the other side

Start off by unscrewing the 4 bolts circled in red below, this will disconnect the brake master cylinder from the footrest and disconnect the footrest from the frame. Also remove the brake light switch from the footrest and disconnect the spring
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/2748/imgp0288.jpg

The footrest will now be connected to the master cylinder, loosen a small nut at the end of the brake pedal and unscrew the footrest from the master cylinder.

I then loosened the bolt holding the brake line to the master cylinder and turned the MC around. Which looked something like this.
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/1913/imgp0299.jpg

At this point I assembled the rearset just like for the other side by first attaching the fin like piece and then putting on the footpeg. After that I mounted the rearset to the frame again just like for the opposite side. This time the thinner spacers are placed on the reverse side of the rearset and loctite is added to the bolts once again.

This is a mock up of what the rearset would look like if I had kept stock brakelines. If I was doing this I would disconnect the brake line and turn it around to avoid the awkward angle at which it sticks up. Also I would reroute the thicker black hose going up to the fluid reservoir behind the brake line.
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/2776/imgp0302.jpg

With the rearset now mounted it's time to connect the brakes. Here I ran into my only gripe with the Sato set. For whatever reason a return spring to place over the brake switch is not included, for $8 it seems like something that should be thrown in. It's a small price to pay and way better than constantly locking the brakes.

Here is a picture of the spring going over the switch on the master cylinder, the nut on the bottom is the stock nut from when footrest was removed. The nut on the top is used to adjust brake lever height.
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/6932/imgp0390d.jpg

Now it's time to screw on the little arm to connect the pedal to the brakes.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/6449/imgp0393.jpg

Now you place the thin end of the little arm into a slot at the rear of the brake pedal, slide on the provided washer and slip the e-clip into the groove.
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/2033/imgp0396.jpg

Next you need to connect the the master cylinder to the rearsets, 2 small M6 hex bolts are provided for this, the top screw is 20mm long and the bottom is 15mm. These 2 bolts are circled in red below.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/8281/imgp0399.jpg

Now the last thing that is left is to make sure that the brake light switch works. Instead of using the stock bolt that goes through the banjo a pressure sensor is provided to replace it.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/2778/imgp0398.jpg

The instructions now call to cut the cable from the original brake light switch and to use the provided connectors to go over the cut wires and to connect them to the wires on the pressure sensor.

Instead here is what I did, I believe it yielded a cleaner result.

I removed the brake light switch from its connection at the wire harness.
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/406/imgp0400.jpg

Looking into the connector there are 2 small protrusions on the metal portions that can be pushed flat with a small screwdriver.
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/218/imgp0402.jpg

This allows you to pull the wires out of the plastic connector, which you can then recycle.
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/2881/imgp0406.jpg

I used a small pair of scissors to make 2 small cuts on either side of the covering over the wires from the pressure sensor, I then pushed those wires into the plastic connector as far as they would go.
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/4016/imgp0408.jpg

A little electric tape over the new connection I just made and then I pushed the new connector back into the wire harness.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1971/imgp0409.jpg

The brake lights now work from the rear brake as well. Some people may not be concerned with this and not bother connecting the pressure sensor, I feel that it's important to have so I went ahead and connected the brake lights.

If using the pressure sensor to replace the stock bolt it's important to bleed the rear brake now. If sticking with just the stock bolt it may be possible that the brake doesn't need to be bled, I would do it just to be safe.

One final image of the rearset completely installed. As I was installing this I found that I can no longer use the heat shield from my exhaust because the rear of the break pedal where it connects to the master cylinder gets stuck with the brakes fully applied when the heat shield is present. Even without the shield there is not much room between the exhaust and rearset.
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6263/imgp0426j.jpg

Great job! :thumbup: I'll add it to the sticky thread right now...

I wasn't sure where to add it in there, it seems like Cosmetic Mods was closest, so I put it there with the clip-ons, but both the clip-ons and the rearsets seem to be more than cosmetic. If anyone has suggestions for a new category in that sticky, or if they feel this should be moved to a different existing category, I'm all ears.

Yuri! :thumbup:

Good write up. Was this through Dan Kyle? He was so indignant that everything was supplied with Sato rearsets... I guess he forgot about that return spring. :p

I take it you have not ridden it yet? ...and please tell me that's not your garage you're working in. :D

Alex, under "frame and suspension"? I agree the rearsets and clipons are more than cosmetic changes.

Alex, under "frame and suspension"?

Done. :thumbup:

Yuri! :thumbup:

Good write up. Was this through Dan Kyle? He was so indignant that everything was supplied with Sato rearsets... I guess he forgot about that return spring. :p

I take it you have not ridden it yet? ...and please tell me that's not your garage you're working in. :D

Alex, under "frame and suspension"? I agree the rearsets and clipons are more than cosmetic changes.

This was all through Dan Kyle, the return spring is technically optional. The rearsets work just fine without it but I think it's dumb not to include it.

No that's my kitchen, when I started this about 3 weeks ago it was way too cold to be in my garage.

As far as riding it I've only got a few test drive miles under my belt. At first it felt that the footpegs were too far back, this is in position 3 which is 30mm(or cm I don't remember) higher and 20mm further back than stock. This was after expecting my feet to be where they had been with the stock pegs. After coming to the realization that my pegs are now indeed further back and adjusting my riding position a bit they felt perfectly comfortable. I had to slide back from the tank a little bit, which dropped my knees a little and made my legs go back a bit.
Also I found that the shift lever was a bit closer to the footpeg. I didn't have to slide my foot as much to get the tip of the lever on my toes. The brake lever also feels a little shorter but the feel of it is comparable to stock.
At this point I just need to adjust the shift lever a bit as my boot was getting stuck between the peg and lever.

thanks for your feedback. I'm waiting for a set of extender plates, so I like your comment about moving you back a bit from the tank. I think the clipons pull you too far forward with the stock peg location. it will be great to experiment a bit with the different adjustment positions.

mahalo for taking the time for the DIY. :)

Now connect the pegs to the rearset, there are 5 positions to choose from here, I chose the middle most position. A black spacer needs to be placed on the reverse side of the rearset. The bolt should be torqued to 17 ft lb.
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/908/imgp0291.jpg


Nice write up man and I'm glad I wasn't the only one to have problems with the heat shield.

Are you sure about the placement of that collar?
For me at least, the peg seems too narrow without it and if you have the collar on the peg side you can just about take the bolt in and out, which means you can adjust the rear peg position without having to remove the whole unit.

I mean, they tell ya to loctite all the bolts in place, but to change peg positions you gotta undo the same bolts. Without riding it, how you gonna know which of the 5 positions suits you best.
Doesn't make sense that you have to remove the whole unit to change peg positions again.

wow - those look like a huge improvement in style, feel, and function over the stockers - good job

Are you sure about the placement of that collar?


^ what he said..... looks like the spacer should be with the peg, otherwise they would have given you a shorter bolt ;). God knows sato doesnt have very good directions, they do have nice pictures thou :)

Rearsets look real nice :thumbup:

I went back and double checked the schematic, you guys are absolutely right the spacers go on the same side as the peg.

Wow! Great pictures! I just glanced through and I almost feel like I know how to do it. Good job.

I went back and double checked the schematic, you guys are absolutely right the spacers go on the same side as the peg.

:thumbup::thumbup:

I need to pick some of them spacers up for the R1 :)

I need to replace the right side rearset on my 09 ninja 250, however, i don't want to drop 250 bucks on a billet, etc. racing style setup. i'm looking to spend anywhere from 25-75 dollars for a rearset that will fit the 09.

can you point me to a place on the internet that would help me accomplish this? will any year ninja rearset fit the 09's? most of them (visually) look like they would fit the assembly.

here's a link to my predicament. do you think that my brake will be okay? http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2531/3972150527_a058c977b0_o.jpg

Thanks! and if you would be so kind to send any info to pawson.nick@gmail.com

Nick

why not just replace the stock, cracked bracket? :confused:

to replace the braket would be about $90 (part only, not installation) from a local kawasaki dealer, which will do if i can't find anything better.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI-NINJA-250R-250-RIGHT-MAIN-STAY-PEG-BRACKET-08_W0QQitemZ400072191908QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=it em5d26292fa4&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

wow. i scoured ebay for one of those, but i guess i was looking for the wrong thing. thanks so much. i might end up going this route.

Hello Yuri - I am new to this site. I was wondering where you got that spring from? And won't it damage the rubber part of the master cylinder after repeated use? Thank you for a very useful DIY!!

^ what he said..... looks like the spacer should be with the peg, otherwise they would have given you a shorter bolt ;). God knows sato doesnt have very good directions, they do have nice pictures thou :)

Rearsets look real nice :thumbup:

I went back and double checked the schematic, you guys are absolutely right the spacers go on the same side as the peg.

This is something that racers like to do, shorten the peg, so its easier to move on the bike. That's why the rearset comes that way.

I want to do this, but I'm hesitant because the rear brake situation looks like a project of its own. I guess what I want to know is how much of a hassle was it to do the right side?

One final image of the rearset completely installed. As I was installing this I found that I can no longer use the heat shield from my exhaust because the rear of the break pedal where it connects to the master cylinder gets stuck with the brakes fully applied when the heat shield is present. Even without the shield there is not much room between the exhaust and rearset.
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6263/imgp0426j.jpg

I ran into a much more sever issue with a M4 full exhaust. The brake pedal where it connects to the master cylinder runs right into the exhaust. Has anyone successfully installed Sato rearsets with an aftermarket exhaust?

So it's 2018 and I went ahead and bought these from eBay without doing my research. Lo and behold after 9 hours of trying to align the brake side right rearset, it obviously doesnt line up. Stumbled on this thread and got so happy knowing all I have to do is flip the MC. But then I spend 4 hours trying to loosen the nut that's on top of the MC but it's so tight that ir wouldnt budge. What do I do??

TLDR: Nut on top of the MC doesn't want to budge, too tight. Any recommendations?

Answer is in your post in other thread.