Hey so I went into walmart looking for the proper oil for my bike. I live in Hawaii, and ambient temps are ~70*F during usual riding and as cold as 50*F at the 'track.'

I understand the service manual calls for 10w-40 (not energy conserving) and I've read many threads and debates about the best oil to use.

Of all the following oils, which would you guys recommend? If there's something specific that is unanimously agreed upon around here in terms of oil-brand, I can go shop around town but everything is hard to find on an island.

Pics of all the 10w-40 oil that I found. Didn't see any of them with "energy conserving" in the little round circle on the back of the bottle, so I think any would theoretically work.

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy34/Corksil/20130921_165232_zpse775952c.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/Corksil/media/20130921_165232_zpse775952c.jpg.html)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy34/Corksil/20130921_165242_zps987e32f8.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/Corksil/media/20130921_165242_zps987e32f8.jpg.html)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy34/Corksil/20130921_165257_zps0593fa30.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/Corksil/media/20130921_165257_zps0593fa30.jpg.html)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy34/Corksil/20130921_165308_zpscd17bbb7.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/Corksil/media/20130921_165308_zpscd17bbb7.jpg.html)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy34/Corksil/20130921_165320_zpsdc357cd5.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/Corksil/media/20130921_165320_zpsdc357cd5.jpg.html)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy34/Corksil/20130921_165337_zpsbd579908.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/Corksil/media/20130921_165337_zpsbd579908.jpg.html)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy34/Corksil/20130921_165348_zps6e990a41.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/Corksil/media/20130921_165348_zps6e990a41.jpg.html)

I used castrol gtx semi synth last time and it was fine, my choice would be the mobil 1, but they all should be ok.

I hate to say it as it's very over said, but it's more about how frequently you change it as opposed to what you put in.

I've never heard of valvoline or quaker state so i'd avoid them, but if they're popular in the states then yeah, sure. Castrol and Mobil 1 would be my bet.

Cant beat this:
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/images/products/375_MCO_landing_page_02242012.jpg

lol who my marked my above post as " bad" ? explain?

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/svarun01/moron2.gif (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/svarun01/media/moron2.gif.html)

As orilla said, change interval is more important than the brand that you use. Any of those should be ok.

This is a pretty popular choice and should be on the shelf at WM. Cheap also compared to others.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3253C/large/8120031_sll_5079769_pri_larg.jpg

Which of the following oil would be best? [PICS]

The correct answer would be: D - None of the above.

Those are all auto oils. Current auto oils are mandated low levels of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorus) to protect the catalyst. Auto makes were forced to go to roller lifter and rockers because the new levels are not safe for solid lifter and rockers - the type that most cycle engines use (except the Honda CBR250R, which has roller rockers).

Using auto oils in almost any cycle engine will significantly increase the chances of damage to the cams.

A safe alternative (as mentioned above) are Diesel oils - Rotella, Delvac, etc. They have safe levels of ZDDP and are generally high quality for the price.

I would recommend Rotella T 15W-40 or Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic - either will be good. The 15W is fine for you (unlike a lot of us that have temps below 50) because of your warm weather. T6 (Group III synthetic) is better for cold temp starts. Diesel oils should be easy to find - even there.

I use the Castrol RS 4T 10W-40 that bob2010 recommended in my SV. It's a quality Group IV synthetic. I also have used T6 numerous times without any problems. Not sure why anyone would give his recommendation a 0 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

All oils rated a 40-grade and above don't have Friction Modifiers - but that doesn't mean they are a good choice for a cycle engine.

alot of ppl on here use Rotella.

I use Mobil 1 4t 10w40 race oil

Guessing it was voted bad due to all of those being for cars. Go with Rotella T6, it is rated for wet clutches. Some of the old school bikers swear by the auto stuff but things have changed. I wouldn't put cage oil in my bike

Shell T6 user here. I buy mine at wal-mart, is it not avail at your local store?

T6 or rotella 15w40 is the way to go for a cheap oil. I'd recommend the 15w40 for your climate

rotella 5w40 here. you can get it by the gallon at amazon, and if you get an oil filter at the same time you get free shipping. Click me! (http://www.amazon.com/Rotella-550019921-5W-40-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B005CHT4W6)

I think they ship to hawaii. I could be wrong, though.

Motorex Power Synt 10w-50 All day!

http://www.motorexusa.com/musa/PROD_IMAGES/power-synt-10W50-1l.jpg

Motorex Power Synt 10w-50 All day!

http://www.motorexusa.com/musa/PROD_IMAGES/power-synt-10W50-1l.jpg

That's good oil not doubt, but unless you are consistently running your oil temps above 200F there's no good reason to go to a 50-weight. Heavy oil builds too much pressure and moves slower - which doesn't remove heat as effectively.

Racing in hot weather is pretty much the only time you should consider running a heavier grade than normal.

Guessing it was voted bad due to all of those being for cars. Go with Rotella T6, it is rated for wet clutches. Some of the old school bikers swear by the auto stuff but things have changed. I wouldn't put cage oil in my bike

I meant my post not OP

The best oil is Motul 300V Racing oil, but every other oil also does what it should do. So never mind, just take one.

I would personally stick with a motorcycle oil designed to work with a wet clutch, why wouldn't you? To save a few bucks?

If you change your oil say every 3k miles, and the average rider probably doesn't get much over 7k miles in a season that is 2 oil changes. 4L of Repsol or comparable oil is like $40. $40 bucks for enough oil for a years worth of oil changes seems pretty cheap and worth it IMO.

The best oil is Motul 300V Racing oil, but every other oil also does what it should do. So never mind, just take one.

You are pretty close with the 300V recommendation, but way off with the other comment.

If you haven't been following along, read post #6 for the reasons why using just any oil in a cycle isn't a good idea (hint: it's not just the Friction Modifier thing...)

You are pretty close with the 300V recommendation, but way off with the other comment.

If you haven't been following along, read post #6 for the reasons why using just any oil in a cycle isn't a good idea (hint: it's not just the Friction Modifier thing...)

Thank you Jay, I forgot to say that I'd only talk about MOTORCYCLE-OIL...

Thank you Jay, I forgot to say that I'd only talk about MOTORCYCLE-OIL...
No problem - thought you were commenting on his original (auto oil) choices.

Pretty much any cycle-specific oil (in the recommended grade - 40), or Diesel oil, will do the job. If you're cheap, the diesel oil is the clear winner.

As for motul 300v being the best I'm not so sure, it shears down to a 30wt while maxima and redline esters do not. Plus motul customer service blows the other brands I mentioned answered every question I asked and are american companies too.

I use silkoline comp4 oil 10-40

I use Amsoil, works well just changed my oil it was really clean. I changed it at 3,500 miles. It's a bit expensive but well worth it. When I switched from conventional to the Amsoil, the motor ran better and smoother not as much vibrations. But as others have said stick with a motorcycle oil bare minimum..

I use Rotella T6. Full synthetic, cheap, and easily found. No problems yet.

T6 is not a real full synthetic it is highly refined dino oil. There was a court case about what was or was not a full synthetic back in the 90s. The ruling was that the crude was refined enough to be considered synthetic. In Europe it can't be called a synthetic

This is what I bought and I'm doing the oil change today.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/275/m/max_12_pre_4_str_oil_10w_40.jpg

Rotella, synthetic or non synthetic doesn't really make a difference. Just change the non-synth more often. I put synthetic in my 500, abuse the **** out of it and she loves me. My CBR has non synthetic in it because I have a slightly slippy clutch so the thicker oil helps that out, even though I think it's just a lever adjustment issue.

Rotella, synthetic or non synthetic doesn't really make a difference. Just change the non-synth more often. I put synthetic in my 500, abuse the **** out of it and she loves me. My CBR has non synthetic in it because I have a slightly slippy clutch so the thicker oil helps that out, even though I think it's just a lever adjustment issue.
Synthetic oil won't make the clutch slip more.

T6 (Group III) is fine, but it's not quite up to the level of a "real" synthetic (Group IV and V).

It's still plenty adequate for all but the most demanding situations if changed at normal intervals.

Neither of those listed because they are not approved for use for motorcycle oils. They do not carry the JASO-MA certification.

Neither of those listed because they are not approved for use for motorcycle oils. They do not carry the JASO-MA certification.

Thank you!