I saw this product a few weeks back and I liked the idea of being able to experiment with peg placement. Most rearsets run roughly $300 and I didn't want to spend that much on something that I may not like. Plus, I wanted a set of adjustable rearsets that I could move around to fit me.

This product is a bit different and say innovative in the way it accomplishes the rearward placement of the pegs. You get a pair of "plates" that you install between the stock location on the frame and the footpeg brackets. Sounded like a good idea to me and the seller, Dennis was nice enough to deal with, so I ordered a set. It took about week to get here, coming from Malaysia.

FEDEX dropped off the package and this is what you get...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblweYd5EDI/AAAAAAAAC9A/hxAX-dDJarg/s640/DSC05201-1.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwfY26DRI/AAAAAAAAC9I/L19R1wHKU30/s640/DSC05202-1.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwgZ7ugrI/AAAAAAAAC9Q/NPmTBumFYjQ/s640/DSC05203-1.JPG

unwrap it and you have 2 plates, 4 bolts with washers and nuts and an extended shifter linkage rod.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwhV5RmuI/AAAAAAAAC9Y/AInTQgv6kX4/s640/DSC05204-1.JPG

close up of the plates
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwiI1Rp9I/AAAAAAAAC9g/IDQ6kUgd86s/s640/DSC05205-1.JPG

He also emails you a set of instructions, so armed with a printed set of instructions, I head out to the garage and put the bike up ready for it's operation. I swear the bike cringes every time I put it up on that rear stand worrying about which part is going to be violated next. :p

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblwj4w9bAI/AAAAAAAAC9w/cazNUljteI4/s640/DSC05207-1.JPG

Left Side Peg Install
first step is to remove the shifter link. break both the lock nuts loose and turn. the threads are reversed threaded form each other, so twist away and the link unscrews itself form both ends at the same time.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblwl3tVG_I/AAAAAAAAC-A/-yb-jaZd0N0/s640/DSC05209-1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwmsaQA4I/AAAAAAAAC-I/xsbBVBo_CuI/s640/DSC05210-1.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblwn2EkavI/AAAAAAAAC-Q/GpIOSGS994o/s640/DSC05211-1.JPG

next, remove the stock foot peg bracket.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwpA_OxEI/AAAAAAAAC-Y/mdSxYmoKgT8/s640/DSC05212-1.JPG

The blue tape is the approximate location of the footpegs before the install. I wanted to see how far back the plates was going to move the peg and needed a reference.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwqpRZywI/AAAAAAAAC-g/RShwh1FaekQ/s640/DSC05213-1.JPG

install the plate to the bike with 2 of the allen bolts supplied
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwrhKSdgI/AAAAAAAAC-o/rt1USNJ1twI/s640/DSC05214-1.JPG

Next, mount the stock footpeg brackets using the same screws you took off earlier. Some nuts and washers are provided in the kit. I selected the set of holes in the extender that would give me the most forward and lowest position. I ran into problems with this selection, but more on that later. :(

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblxEDQEAmI/AAAAAAAADBo/2GB_kMjNG-c/s640/DSC05237-1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblxFazxuqI/AAAAAAAADBw/0E_yKetWmtQ/s640/DSC05238-1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwtlTAjBI/AAAAAAAAC-4/vcP8I1UKaoQ/s640/DSC05216-1.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwuqvNP4I/AAAAAAAAC_E/gYuz9VFN0-8/s640/DSC05217-1.JPG


Next we need to install the new shift link using the lock nuts from the old link and threading it back onto the bike.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwxbuJ9cI/AAAAAAAAC_U/6nJyGm7g3Gs/s640/DSC05219-1.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblwyvkTEYI/AAAAAAAAC_c/pbGyFiTEvII/s640/DSC05220-1.JPG


When I tried to put the link on, I found it was too long with the peg position I had selected. I had to move the pegs back another set of holes so the link would fit. I also had to rotate one end of the shift linkage on the splined portion of the shift shaft to make room for the link length.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblwzr1M1jI/AAAAAAAAC_k/neUsOO6w_Q4/s640/DSC05221-1.JPG

notice the angle of the linkage on the splined shaft and also notice the adjustment on the provided shift link is made as short as it can go.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblw00b7IfI/AAAAAAAAC_s/611zEiLGUGE/s640/DSC05222-1.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblw1x_rbGI/AAAAAAAAC_0/rgIM2ccmCYA/s640/DSC05223-1.JPG

Some shots of the completed install on the left side peg.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblw3E2REiI/AAAAAAAAC_8/9Zm8DUNWBag/s640/DSC05224-1.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblw4VMEynI/AAAAAAAADAE/btM_X0KYJK8/s640/DSC05225-1.JPG


So how far does it move the pegs? Remember the blue tape? Using that as my guide it moves the peg back about 2 1/2 inches from it's original location.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblw8Lt3l1I/AAAAAAAADAk/wRtOxUqOzts/s640/DSC05229-1.JPG

Some additional photos of the peg in it's finale position.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblw9JG0vDI/AAAAAAAADAs/F6V6t9JVG-M/s640/DSC05230-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblw91mdJWI/AAAAAAAADA0/5honDnZh2uQ/s640/DSC05231-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblw--CVOeI/AAAAAAAADA8/E4epOJFos7Y/s640/DSC05232-1.JPG

Go back and make sure to tighten all the bolts up. I didn't use any loctite as I will be experimenting with the different peg adjustment holes once I ride the bike and suit to taste. Once I select a final location, I will loctite the bolts into place.



Right Side Peg Install

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblxBAteRgI/AAAAAAAADBM/l_bm5Ez24l8/s640/DSC05234-1.JPG

As the left side, start with removing the footpeg bracket.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblxCFpeF9I/AAAAAAAADBY/QBkh6SFtuj4/s640/DSC05235-1.JPG

The right side is a bit easier, but it does have it's problems, too. Install the plate to the frame using the allens supplied and install the footpeg bracket onto the plate the same way you did on the left and of course selecting the same set of holes you did on the other side.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblxGVbuPyI/AAAAAAAADB4/AIPip__P5kE/s640/DSC05239-1.JPG

After you get everything mounted up you notice the problem. The brake hose now protrudes into the wheel well a lot more and would be touched by the tire if left as is. The instructions tell you how to deal with the problem, but I will be relocating my reservoir ala' Vex in the future to the vacant space left from the airbox removal, so all I wanted to do today was to get the hose out of the way.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblxHJB99AI/AAAAAAAADCA/jX-KmOASTZo/s640/DSC05240-1.JPG

I carefully and gently routed the brake hose next to the exhaust hanger and zip tied it to that bracket.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblxMGhg-FI/AAAAAAAADCo/oZzbp6e86hU/s640/DSC05245-1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblxKJnK6fI/AAAAAAAADCY/00hMTZkTudA/s640/DSC05243-1.JPG

Completed install on the right side.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblxODC0cEI/AAAAAAAADC4/ZVC9HqiUoBA/s640/DSC05247-1.JPG

Full side view-
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SblxPMfXf6I/AAAAAAAADDA/f4fK6uoAKME/s640/DSC05248-1.JPG

So once I'm done, I sit on the bike and find... I like it!!! :) With the stock peg location, I always felt like it put you in an upright position with your feet located right under you. I understand that as a standard, they do not want the seating position very radical for beginner riders. These plates change all that and gives you a very sporty, layed down feel. By moving the pegs back, you cant a bit forward when sitting and the bike feels roomier for your legs. it also pushes you back a bit and alleviates the boys against the tank I was getting with the clipons and the stock peg location.

Th kit does exactly what it advertises. It gives you adjustable rearsets at a fraction of the current offerings. The parts seem sturdy and the holes lined up perfectly. The quality of paint could be better... in fact powdercoating would be great. And the problem I had with the shift link being too long was most likely due to me using the forward most set of holes initially. I can see the rod that is supplied working for all the other hole locations. Still, it does seem a bit too long. Perhaps if 2 rods were included... the one I got plus another about 1/2 inch shorter.

In all, a thumbs up to an innovative solution to low cost rearsets. It works. :)

If interested, send Ride2Max a PM.

Cooooooommmmme on tax return check! :p Daddy needs to relocate his pegs!

lol... just save your money and don't be spending it all down in wakiwaki!! :p

keep your eyes on the hands, not the hips.... :drool:

http://image54.webshots.com/54/3/1/75/2240301750099937912iWSVvV_ph.jpg

You sure love your zip-ties!

I wish I had invented them. I'd be retired right now. :cool:

zip ties are the cat's meow. !! At Fastenol they have huge ones for sale.
42"+You could use em to build something big.

42"+You could use em to build something big.

hmmmm... :nod:

Oh I forgot to say nice DIY and what a great kit.

Should I send you a brake reservoir cozy??

LOL... thanks, Z, for the cozy offer, but I intend to move the reservoir into a spot where it won't be seen... really... sometime soon... very soon... um, when I get around to it... maybe... ahhh... I just need to get off my fat ass and do it. :mad:

what,with shipping,did he end up charging you? i want a set of these...

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13853

read his thread and send him a PM on pricing.

I paid 90 for the kit and 40 shipping.

I was thinking Holy cats so much for shipping then saw they were coming from overseas.

yes, unfortunately shipping from that region of the world is ungodly expensive. I can't figure out why. :confused:

lots of great products from vendors there that are reasonably priced, but by the time you add in shipping, they usually lose the price advantage. Fortunately, in this product's case, there are no reasonable alternatives that I've found to relocate the pegs and even with the high shipping involved, it is a reasonable solution, in terms of cost vs concept, in my eyes.

Yes I agree. Things and service just cost money that is that.!!
I want to streamline my cost on my Exhaust hangers but am determined to use local labor.
The kit for the pegs is a great alternative and still cost effective even with shipping.

Wonder why he didnt tap the holes? < instead of using nuts........

This thread reminds of when people start yelling at somebody, for doing a exhaust on a budget. You get - bla bla bla...... save some money & buy the real thing(rearsets) :boink:

I like the idea of saving money :behindsofa:

This thread reminds of when people start yelling at somebody, for doing a exhaust on a budget. You get - bla bla bla...... save some money & buy the real thing(rearsets)

sorry if you mistook my concern for the shipping costs.


??? I think everyone likes the idea of a kit and when I realized it was international shipping was why shipping was expensive it made more sense. . I don't think anyone was yelling or dissin the kit??
Like I said I think it is a great alternative but was wondering why the shipping was high !
I love all the aftermarket ideas that have come out.

Z- Kerry was referring to an entirely different thread and wasn't commenting on your remarks. :)

I think his message was "cheap alternatives to solutions are good".

Z- Kerry was referring to an entirely different thread and wasn't commenting on your remarks. :)

I think his message was "cheap alternatives to solutions are good".
thanks for correcting me!!
I just couldn't figure that out. I have the flu and my brain fells like it has been in a churchbell. sorry if I
misunderstood you Mr.H !
Posted via Mobile Device lying in bed whining about being sick driving tr crazy

lol.. it's 6pm there... he's most likely already has had a number of rum and cokes, so I don't think much will bother him at this point. Perhaps you could subscribe to the same medication as him? :martini-drinking:

get well soon, Z.

:sick:

sweet write up kkim! i ordered a set and my set came a few days ago. i have spring break next week, I wonder what I'll be doing...:rolleyes:

LOL... thanks, Z, for the cozy offer, but I intend to move the reservoir into a spot where it won't be seen... really... sometime soon... very soon... um, when I get around to it... maybe... ahhh... I just need to get off my fat ass and do it. :mad:

Did I put my rear brake reservoir relocation DIY over here? Hrmm. It's one of the easier things to do actually and strangely I haven't seen any other 250's around here that've done it (actually very few people at all) :confused:

Furthermore I'd like to move my rearsets, but I'm thinking this summer I might just save up and pick up a set of rearsets (the kind that come with a 6R or CBR600RR attached to them). :eek: I figured I need more of a selection of motorcycles in my garage. :p

Nice DIY Kelly. When you say it "feels roomier for your legs" do you mean you are actually getting more leg extension than the stock position, or that it just "feels" roomier? I'd really like to get more leg extension since my legs can cramp up on long rides, but I don't want it to affect cornering clearance or make me have to lay down on the tank because my legs are too far behind the seat. How much of an improvement would this be for us guys with long legs? Is the 2.5" shift in position of the pegs really noticeable the first time you get on the bike after installing them? Or does it just feel slightly different?

Thanks alot kelly for the review. :)

Wayne,

If I remember correctly, it's about the same as a set of any of the other rearsets that are on the market. I would recommend to find someone who has rearsets on the their bikes to answer your questions as everyone will differ. It does feel roomier for me, but that might be only in my case.

It moves the pegs 2 1/2" rearward. Other than that, I can't say what that would mean for you. It does increase ground clearance, though, not reduce it.

When you jump on the bike, you notice the difference.


Nice DIY Kelly. When you say it "feels roomier for your legs" do you mean you are actually getting more leg extension than the stock position, or that it just "feels" roomier? I'd really like to get more leg extension since my legs can cramp up on long rides, but I don't want it to affect cornering clearance or make me have to lay down on the tank because my legs are too far behind the seat. How much of an improvement would this be for us guys with long legs? Is the 2.5" shift in position of the pegs really noticeable the first time you get on the bike after installing them? Or does it just feel slightly different?

:bounce:thanks for the write up. :crazybounce: I'm not near my bike right now im actually in JFK waiting for a flight to BUF. Is it possible to lower the shift lever position from where you have it in the pics to compensate for the peg move backward? What about the brake Is that adjustable aswell. Sorry Just cant recall the mechanical make up of everything after a 14Hr layover. Thanks again KKIM

As soon as I ride the bike I'll adjust the shifter height. I hope there is enough adjustment on the splined shaft so I can rotate the connecting point down a bit if I need to. this was the reason I was asking about a shorter shift link. :)

The brake pedal stays as a unit with the footpeg bracket, so not adjustment needs to be there. I should have taken a picture of it when to was off the bike so you could see all that stays connected to the bracket when removed, but I didn't. Sorry.

thanks for helping me decide kkim. I wasn't sure if I wanted to mess with brake hose but it seems like the zip ties will do the trick. Im probably going to order these this coming week. Also how much do you think they raise upward from the original postion (in the highest setting).

compare the two pics and you can get a rough idea. I didn't measure the rise. ... I'd guess about an inch??

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblwj4w9bAI/AAAAAAAAC9w/cazNUljteI4/s640/DSC05207-1.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sblw1x_rbGI/AAAAAAAAC_0/rgIM2ccmCYA/s640/DSC05223-1.JPG

thanks, looks about an inch and thats because your on the lowest setting. awesome I cant wait to get mine. How long did it take for you to recieve them and were you able to use paypal.

little less than a week in shipping and yes, Dennis is set up to accept Paypal.

I did have to wait about a week before he shipped as he had to make a set after I ordered. I'm sure he's been busy making more so he must have an inventory of sets by now. Ask if/when you place your order.:)

Wayne,

If I remember correctly, it's about the same as a set of any of the other rearsets that are on the market. I would recommend to find someone who has rearsets on the their bikes to answer your questions as everyone will differ. It does feel roomier for me, but that might be only in my case.

It moves the pegs 2 1/2" rearward. Other than that, I can't say what that would mean for you. It does increase ground clearance, though, not reduce it.

When you jump on the bike, you notice the difference.

Thanks for the info. Please follow up with your riding impressions once you've had time to adjust the pegs to your liking. I'm really curious about this product, but I'd like to see some more detailed ride reviews to decide if it's right for me.

Same here Kkim, I'm on the fence about buying them, but they look really nice.

kkim,

I think in one post you mentioned that you're 5'7". I'm 6'2". Based on your knowledge/use, do you think I could benefit from these extenders? I'm really sitting on the fence with them.

Thanks :thumbup:

Sorry, guys (and gals)... I would want to say one way or another for sure, but my guess is that it would be roomier. It seems roomier for me, at least, but I have a 28-29" inseam.


The best way, if you are unsure, would be to find another 250R w/ rearsets already installed and try them out. Doesn't matter the brand, they all seem to relocate the pegs back and up about the same amount.

Hi Sam,

As for me, i'm 6 feet and my friend is 6'1" using the same extender, both of us still ride on comfort according to our own adjustment.

Just ordered mine along with a pair of woodcrafts clipons. I cant wait to see what the new position will be like.

Hmmmm.... I think me likies!

Hi Sam,

As for me, i'm 6 feet and my friend is 6'1" using the same extender, both of us still ride on comfort according to our own adjustment.

Thanks for the info. With my leather pants on, I'm constantly sliding forward into the tank even though I try to squeeze the tank with my knees. Are your knees more in the groove below the tank?

Thanks for the info. With my leather pants on, I'm constantly sliding forward into the tank even though I try to squeeze the tank with my knees. Are your knees more in the groove below the tank?


Welcome sam, Usually i will wear either nylon or cotton riding pants, so my knees wont slide forward into the tank. Later i will try to post few photos of my riding position.

Here the photo i promise.

Left side.
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z8/vlcheng/P1030006.jpg


Right Side.
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z8/vlcheng/P1030004.jpg

Cheng, Thanks for taking the additional pics. From your original pics, it looks like I could still move everything another inch or so to the rear.

Just finished installing mine. Thanks Kelly for the write up. I really like the position they give you and it feels like a totally different bike to me (along with WC clips). If you already have woodcrafts clipons and want an affordable way to finish the position then I would recommend these. The only trouble im having is deciding what to do with the brake hose. Since I have mine in the highest position it really gets bent and zip ties would only move it but im afraid the bends will block the flow. Dont really want to cut it but im not sure right now. Heres mine with button screws
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/108/gedc0692.jpg (http://img21.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gedc0692.jpg)
And Dennis is a real nice guy to work with he was always updating me with order status and stuff. (Thanks)

Heres how I temporarily adjusted the brake hose. Dosnt look so great but this is just until I decide if I want to cut the hose or move down a few positions and zip tie. It clears and theres no piching of the hose......is this a bad idea?
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/7056/gedc0734.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gedc0734.jpg)

Got a shortened version of the link yesterday from Dennis and went to install it this morning.

First off, thanks Dennis for making good on what I believe is the only shortcoming with this kit. (other than shipping costs :D)

This is the new rod in comparison with the old. As you can see, it is shorter, but not by 1/2" as I suggested.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sc5wZ2jDSPI/AAAAAAAADGk/ErROKqauQmY/s640/DSC05252-1.JPG

the actual length difference...
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sc5wYom4GLI/AAAAAAAADGc/3unvG4NGlLo/s640/DSC05251-1.JPG

So I move the footpeg bracket up to the forward most and lowest position available, then install the rod. I find the rod is still too long with the shifter end in it's present position on the shift shaft. I move it up a notch and find it does work... however, shifting is sort of "iffy" with the shift linkage end mounted on the shift shaft at such a radical angle.

I move the shift linkage end back down by a notch and by shortening the rod as much as possible, I am able to make the rod work in a setting on the shift shaft end that will shift a little better, but still, the arm is at a radical angle to the shift shaft.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sc5wazRUzQI/AAAAAAAADGs/NDeYmIAIqTs/s640/DSC05253-1.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sc5wbiWcS_I/AAAAAAAADG0/RURJnKG0EyE/s640/DSC05254-1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/Sc5wc53O7mI/AAAAAAAADHA/Wo1hMREsSWo/s640/DSC05255-1.JPG

I really do feel that if the shaft had been shortened a full 1/2", the shifter linkage arm would be a lot closer to ideal. Ideal being that the arm should be coming off the shift shaft at a 90* angle.

I've not ridden the bike yet, but just sitting on it, I can tell the small move of the footpegs forward has made a difference in the seating comfort for me. Will report back after I have some riding time on it and perhaps adjust things around a bit, if needed.

Dennis sent me the "shortened" version like your new one, however I think before I proceed with the install I'm going to take it to a machine shop to shorten the rod and increase the threads accordingly. Thanks for the input Kelly

Ken,

Before you do that, try the extenders on the bike first. The rod length is only an issue on the forward most, lowest position due to that being the closest of all the positions to the shift shaft. If you go back and up, you may not have an issue at all.

The only reason I'm being this picky is that I want to use that front, lower position and the rod length is keeping me from doing so.

This is a great kit and the concept is :thumbup:

I urge you, try it first before reworking the rod.

if you don't like the rod at that point, it's a snap to remove w/o having to remove anything else.

I was going to shorten it myself, but I don't have a means to reverse thread one end of it... I may still shorten the end that I do have the die to thread the rod.

What Kelly says is true. The rod works perfectly for the higher and farther back positions and I am able to adjust the pedal to shift comfortably. I would check which position you would use first and see how it fits.

In another thread I suggested making the threads longer to cheng. Im sure he'll figure something out. from the pics you have there kkim it seems you have the clutch lever at its highest position. Usually when you move foot position back theres a change in ergonomics(obviously). You did say your sitting higher on the seat. Try sitting closer to where you were comfortable before the extenders but adjust the lever down some more so you toes point down alittle more. I think it would be abit more comfortable, though alittle more slightly more aggressive feeling.

I definitely need to ride it and adjust the shift lever to a comfortable position. Whatever I decide on, that rod should be able to accommodate me, but it is already "off" as it is.

the rod length makes that shift linkage arm a very radical angle to the shift shaft. What you are talking about, to me, is fine tuning.

I would suggest using a 3-4 inch coupling nut in the center of the rod, then you could adjust the length of the rod from 2-3 inches longer. If you bought the coupling nut Kelly, I am sure a machine shop there would be able to cut your stock shift rod, then thread the two ends to work with the coupling nut for a Kalua Pork plate with Poke. Run a jam nuts against the coupling nut and Bingo, added length so you can use the stock rod with the closest holes on the adjustment plate and still have room for adjustment. This would actually give you 4 points of adjustment.

thanks for the idea. I'll have to check to see what's available here at the hardware store. :thumbup:

I can easily cut and thread the rod myself. No sense wasting the kalua pork and poke on the machine shop. :D

kkim,

Did you try to adjust the "thing" i not sure what it call circle in red to upper abit so your shift pedal will be lower down. I cant cut the rod too short as it might not fit well, that why i try to shorten it close to 1/2 inch.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z8/vlcheng/DSC05254-1.jpg

Agreed R2M, if he rotated the the shift linkage 2-3 teeth backwards it would move the tip of the gear lever downward more. I do think he needs it to rotate downward more then that, to let the linkage move the shift pawl through the full motion. Where the shift rod attaches needs to be closer to 90 degrees to the attachment.

I can't move the shift linkage arm down by a spline or two... the rod is at it's shortest length now. I like the pedal placement as is, I need more adjustment on the rod to lower the arm a few splines.

If I lower the arm by a few splines, the shift lever for the foot ends up way lower than the footpeg.

kkim,

Mean you perfer the setting as is it now?

I like the placement of the shifter, but don't like the angle that the shift linkage arm comes off the shift shaft and also that have no room for adjustment in one direction as the rod is at it's shortest right now.

I have not ridden the bike to see if this is a workable situation for me, yet, but if I find it is not, I'll just cut and rethread one end of the rod to get it to my liking.

I definitely need to ride it and adjust the shift lever to a comfortable position. Whatever I decide on, that rod should be able to accommodate me, but it is already "off" as it is.

the rod length makes that shift linkage arm a very radical angle to the shift shaft. What you are talking about, to me, is fine tuning.

yep. In the pic you posted the lever was pretty horizontal. Thats all

for the rear brake hose. Just add some metal plate or just a normal bracket. to make your hose longger .PUT a set of washer at the back of your rear brake oil rev,so it will go out a bit,so went u hit a speed bum,u will not touch your fender or other place.
learn and ajust your gear liver to other angle(up/down) then only u get what u wan.
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/2517/image000n.jpg (http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image000n.jpg)

for the rear brake hose. Just add some metal plate or just a normal bracket. to make your hose longger .PUT a set of washer at the back of your rear brake oil rev,so it will go out a bit,so went u hit a speed bum,u will not touch your fender or other place.
learn and ajust your gear liver to other angle(up/down) then only u get what u wan.
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/2517/image000n.jpg (http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image000n.jpg)

Hey thats what I did to my brake hose in the pics above :thumbup: nice.

This doesn't seem to work with the Yoshimura Exhaust, as the brake actuator arm will hit the heat shield of the exhaust.

I'm also having trouble with the shift linkage, it seems to be too long.

This doesn't seem to work with the Yoshimura Exhaust, as the brake actuator arm will hit the heat shield of the exhaust.

I'm also having trouble with the shift linkage, it seems to be too long.

Would u mind to upload some photo to show us? As i using Yoshi Japan spec, no problem. Regrading with the linkage, did u try to adjust the linkage arm?

i saw the picture of your yoshi exhaust, and yours doesnt seem to have a heatshield.

I tried adjusting the linkage as far as it goes, but the arm is still too long

I finally got to ride the bike with the pegs in the bottom forward position and with the shortened rod that R2M sent a few weeks ago.

I really like the repositioned peg position and in the twisties, the bike feels easier to maneuver coupled with the WC clipons I also have installed. From an ergonomic standpoint, for me, it is an improvement.

The shortened rod works, but the shifting is a bit notchier than it was before. I will cut the rod shorter and see if that improves the shifting action. The shift linkage end should be at a 90* angle to the rod for optimum shift action. I know with the adjustable peg position this is impossible to achieve, but it's nowhere close right now. I need to fix that.

Also, another tidbit raised it's ugly head. Now, with the pegs in the back and up position from the original stock peg location, the next hard point that will touch in severe cornering angles will be the kickstand. If you do this mod, be very aware that you can hang the stand up in a corner if you're leaned over enough and crash if it does so. I am nowhere close to doing so, but it has happened to another forum member, so be forewarned.

Getting hung up on the stand is fear of mine. Imagine your having a great ride and that happens outta no where.

What the heck, you have a set of track stands....lose the kickstand and some dead weight at the same time! :thumbup:
I know I wouldn't ride a bike that had even a chance of the kickstand catching in a turn. It's dangerous enough out there without adding the possibility of a crash that can be easily & completely eliminated.

Finally installed mine this afternoon.

A few things about my parts: The supplied allen bolts for the extender brackets were a little too long. When I tightened the bolts until they fully seated, the extenders was loose. I looked at all the installed pics in this thread and you guys didn't have this issue.

Just to be sure I threaded the bolts until they fully seated, then I slid the extender behind it to see if there's any clearance. On both sides I can slide it behind the bolt heads, so I know for sure the bolts were too long (or the extender brackets I have are thinner gauge). The solution was to use the supplied washers that are intended for the supplied nuts. I'm going to buy some button screws and replace the supplied screws for a cleaner look. At any rate, here's what it looks like:

Left side:
http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg393/kawiken/Ninja%20250R/DSCF1026.jpg
Right side:
http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg393/kawiken/Ninja%20250R/DSCF1025.jpg

As for the shifter placement I decided to make it feel more like the Kawasaki Super Sports. The shifter is usually much lower than than the footpeg on those bikes so I lowered it accordingly.

http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg393/kawiken/Ninja%20250R/DSCF1023.jpg

Riding impressions: I rode for about 1 hr, and the first 15 minutes or so I noticed a little more pressure on my "boys". It went away and I enjoyed the remainder of the ride. It's totally comfortable for me and I was riding around town so there's a lot of stopping. I had no problems reaching further back and higher for the pegs.

The shift action feels more solid. It's still smooth but it feels like there's less play. (Maybe my stock shift rod wasn't tightened correctly this whole time??)

The only negative thing I noticed is an increase in vibration felt at the feet. If the extenders were thicker I think it may quell some of the vibrations. Now I'm trying to decide if I should put a magnet behind it to dampen the vibrations.

Otherwise I think this is one of the best bang-for-the-buck mods:thumbup:

Thanks again Kelly for your write-ups. Thanks Dennis for making these available.

I agree... while the kit is not perfect, it is still one of the best bangs for your buck if you are looking for a more rearward placement for the pegs.

Glad you like them, Ken. Great additional feedback as usual! :thumbup:

Will a magnet do that?

Heres a video you might be interested in Ken. http://www.onthethrottle.com/content/view/68/40/

Will a magnet do that?

Heres a video you might be interested in Ken. http://www.onthethrottle.com/content/view/68/40/

Thanks for the vid Joe. Before I installed the extenders I had an idea of where to locate the stays, so I didn't play around with the positioning. After watching the video I decided to tinker with the positioning.

To my surprise, this is what I found:

http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg393/kawiken/Ninja%20250R/DSCF1031.jpg

On my right side, my first set of holes (right row, from top to bottom) are essentially useless. If you can see the background I've already installed the left side. See the top-left side of the extender itself? The contact is preventing the alignment of the top hole. However it looks like if the extender or stay itself is grinded, the holes won't line up anyway because the extender hole is spaced a little too wide.

Since the measurements are off for the first set of holes, I wonder if my pegs are symmentrical in its current position. I guess I'll have to take some measurements later tonight.

Cheng will probably take this info back to the drawing board and notch the top accordingly.
after you file/grind it down check to see if the holes align.keep us updated plz.

I'm a form-follows-function kind of guy, however the thought of grinding it down and attempting to refinish it (I'm no expert at metal work) will probably result in myself just taking a dive and buy some woodcraft rearsets.

The stays are angled differently on the extenders than from the factory position (I'm assuming it's intentional to have the feet slope down on the footpegs) so I'll try to measure the angles/holes during the weekend to see if my current position is symmetrical. If it's okay then I'm just going to leave it alone.

I'll take off the extenders and trace it on paper and scan it so at least Cheng/Dennis will have something to work with. I wasn't expecting to become a guinea pig. :(

I'm a form-follows-function kind of guy, however the thought of grinding it down and attempting to refinish it (I'm no expert at metal work) will probably result in myself just taking a dive and buy some woodcraft rearsets.

U can always send them my way. ;)
I'm pretty good with metal. I planned on buying these anyhoo.

Well,

I decided to do start with the measuring.

Preface: My garage floor is flat. I laid down a 4 foot long level and check the sight glasses to ensure that the bubbles are centered at all all times in multiple positions. I left the level underneath the bike so when I use the tape measure I can rest it on the level itself. I lifted the bike up and I placed another level on top of the gas cap area and it confirms the bike is level.

Finding: I found out that the left side footpeg is 3/8" higher than the right side. There wasn't enough play in the bolts to close the gap difference. As I was tinkering the extenders I thought to myself, I spend $130.00 on these things and I am essentially doing the R&D work. These should be checked before they were sent out. I decided to stop at that point. I reinstalled my stays and measured them. They were dead-on.

If you already have these extenders installed, please take some measurements and see if they're symmetrical on both sides.

$50 :)

US version is coming :)
http://www.kawiforums.com/showthread.php?t=134166

310Ken: Not doubting your methods, because it sounds like you where very intentional, but was wondering if you also double checked the levelness of the bike in other ways? I see you leveled over the gas tank, but (not having tried it myself) did you measure to the stock pegs, or the stand itself? One of the reason I am asking is because I know my rear stand is not level.... I got a cheapy so it is visually off, but don't know how exact the nicer ones are.

Its clearly off by design. you can tell by the pictures, the right side is up against the heal guard, brake cylinder. It looks like one could just get a metal file,mark some lines, put the extender in a vise, and go to work notching out the upper left corner of the extender. ?

Hi friends, do you know if Ride2Max is still selling those footpeg extenders?

I'm REALLY interested on them.. Also if any one know where else I can find a good extender would help a lot.

Thanks for any info
:thumbup:

Hey guys I have the yoshimura bracket adjusters similar to this one I was wondering if I cut the rear brake reservoir hose do I have to bleed the brakes ?