First off, I do not have any affiliation with these guys except for the fact that I am a very happy customer. I have had their flushmounts on previous bikes and it is the best. Super bright, visible from 2-3 directions and very good quality.

Well, I have been hounding these guys (http://www.hightechspeed.com/products/ProtonLights/index.asp) for a couple months trying to get one made for the 250. It finally paid off. I finally got a response tonight saying they will have one available in 2-3 weeks. As of right now, no one really makes a functional/250 specific flushmount that I like.

This is just a heads-up post for those of you on the fence about buying one of the other ones that are specific for the bike. Just hold on a lil longer :D

Those look great... I'll be ordering once they are available.
REPs for pushing them to do ours. I'd never seen these before ,they look like very high quality pieces.
:thumbup:

100$ ?? dang a bit pricey? is that the price or am i mistaken? i think ill get the 20$ pair on egay and just drill a whole. good find though with the 250r specific

Wow those are very sexy. I will purchase when they come out, definitely.

man those are sick, let us know when they are available

pretty cool. Keep us updated

100$ ?? dang a bit pricey? is that the price or am i mistaken? i think ill get the 20$ pair on egay and just drill a whole. good find though with the 250r specific

Its a fair price....but then I again I also think the AreaP exhaust is a fair price;)

For those of you that want to know what these really look like on bikes check out youtube there are tons of vids on these. I didnt want to post as there are way too many.

Sign me up!

Nice. I just wish that I was competent enough to install them!

Those are sweeeet!

Me likey!

too bad it won't come with oem wiring adapters. still, definitely looking forward to seeing what they will look like on our bikes.

They look really nice, but I don't think I could spend $100 on them.

Nice. I just wish that I was competent enough to install them!

too bad it won't come with oem wiring adapters. still, definitely looking forward to seeing what they will look like on our bikes.

I'm pretty sure their plug and play guys

I'm pretty sure their plug and play guys

well, not that big a deal, but you do have to cut off the oem plug and attach it to their turn signal wires.instructions (http://www.hightechspeed.com/products/ProtonLights/instructions_lg.gif)

i was just thinking about if i ever wanted to sell the bike, you would be able to tell it was altered at one point.

well, not that big a deal, but you do have to cut off the oem plug and attach it to their turn signal wires.instructions (http://www.hightechspeed.com/products/ProtonLights/instructions_lg.gif)

i was just thinking about if i ever wanted to sell the bike, you would be able to tell it was altered at one point.

Wow I really misunderstood where they say no cutting or bike modification required....they were talkin about the body. who's gonna hack up their frickin fairing for a blinker.stupid advertising jargon got me.lol

Anyways thats a simple install. Cut the connector off of the stalk and not the wire harness.

whats so bad about having to cut your wires?

nothing, it's just that for $100 they could include a matching connector...

Looks like the proton lights are available now.

BEST PRICE HERE!!!!!!!!! (http://www.newenoughhp.com/parts/turn_signals__led's/high_tech_speed/kawasaki_motorcycle_proton_light_flush_mount_led_turn_signals.html) These are now available for $95.00

Not the only company to make specific flush-mounts... I've been working with Gregg DesJardins at Gregg's Customs and he's sending my plastics back as we speak... The Ninja 250 Specific Flush-mounts should be ready to go in a couple weeks and they are gonna look sick.... stay tuned!!!!

Hmm, I think I will have to get me a set. Would be good if they made matching rears ones (obviously flushmount would be hard, but at least the same indicator design would be good)

Mason, I am interested in the ones you helping have made.

Not the only company to make specific flush-mounts... I've been working with Gregg DesJardins at Gregg's Customs and he's sending my plastics back as we speak... The Ninja 250 Specific Flush-mounts should be ready to go in a couple weeks and they are gonna look sick.... stay tuned!!!!


Thats good news....hopefully we can also get other companies to jump on board the 250 wagon.

Ive seen the Greg's, Watsen, Proton, flushmounts in person side by side for other bikes and in my opinion Proton>Watsen>Gregs although these are also the 3 best manufacturers for flushmounts imo. So you cant really go wrong with either.

I think $100 for these protons is reasonable. Especially since most FE kits cost right around the $100 neighborhood. I wouldn't mind rear flush mounts if they offerred the visibility that the protons seem to have....

Do you know if they will fit the pregen bikes?

Not the only company to make specific flush-mounts... I've been working with Gregg DesJardins at Gregg's Customs and he's sending my plastics back as we speak... The Ninja 250 Specific Flush-mounts should be ready to go in a couple weeks and they are gonna look sick.... stay tuned!!!!

Greggs make some good stuff :thumbup::thumbup:

Have some of there flushies on the r1 :)

The Protons look great. But are they water resistant? from the looks of its pictures on newenough they seem to be lacking a rubber seal? I can see rain or water while washing your bike getting into the circuits. what do you think?

The Protons look great. But are they water resistant? from the looks of its pictures on newenough they seem to be lacking a rubber seal? I can see rain or water while washing your bike getting into the circuits. what do you think?

No. I cant see them not thinking of this in R&D. I think the unit itself is sealed. Send them an email and post a response.

its a totally self enclosed system. Programming and features require different ways of wiring. No need to open the lights at all.

Be Nice if these were avail in diff lense hues

Be Nice if these were avail in diff lense hues

I agree, Id like something in light smoke.

I agree, Id like something in light smoke.

There are plenty of products out there that you could smoke them yourself.

Here's the first one I found:

http://www.shopcustomcreations.com/VHT-Nite-Shades-Tint-SprayBlack-Out-Tail-Light/prod-530.html

There are plenty of products out there that you could smoke them yourself.

Here's the first one I found:

http://www.shopcustomcreations.com/VHT-Nite-Shades-Tint-SprayBlack-Out-Tail-Light/prod-530.html


Very true, the reason I didnt attempt this with the protons on my other bike is because the outer shell is not smooth it has a texture to it. I just didnt want to mess a $100 part with VHT. Ive used VHT before but I dont see it looking that good on the type of texture this piece has. Then again, I am super anal about this kind of stuff and if I see a speck of it that didnt look even, Id throw it out :happy60:

just got home from spring break with the kids... exhausted... anyway... I also had Gregg send me a couple of the bubble L.E.D's that go on his flush mount front unit and i'm going to mount those bubbles as my rear blinkers... ta-da matching set! ( why is it only magicians who get to use the phrase "Ta-da?") The flush mounts from Gregg's are a direct bolt in unit unfortunately you'll still have to splice the wires... I"ll post a D.I.Y. with pics once I get both sets installed...

Just ordered my Protons from New Enough. I'll post up some pictures and a description when they're on... probably about 2 weeks.

Thanks to Sloppy2nds for gettin' the ball rollin' on these bad boys!

Just ordered my Protons from New Enough. I'll post up some pictures and a description when they're on... probably about 2 weeks.

Thanks to Sloppy2nds for gettin' the ball rollin' on these bad boys!

Just trying to get everyone some good options on flushmounts....I think my protons are sitting at home now in a box....I'm on vacation till sunday.m...but can't wait to get them on..

I haven't taken off the front fairings yet, so I don't know what the blinker assembly looks like in there, but for those of you who have, or already have the protons, do you think they would work on the back of the bike? Because that would awesome, but I get the feeling they won't...

I haven't bought one for my 08 250 yet but Proton is nice. it's bulging out so you can see it from the front unlike other flat flushies. I have them in my 600rr and quality is top notch.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff11/randomwalk101/IMG_2165.jpg

Drooled on keyboard

Ok got mine installed tonight. No DIY and pics since its a fairly simple install, but ill cover some things to look out for to save you all some pain and time.

1. I used all the stock hardware from the OEM signals except for the locking nut that comes with the protons which I used.

2. This is fairly obvious, but when you cut the wires that go to the OEM signals the black is always your ground and the green is your hot.

3. You will need resistors, or even better get a new relay from autoparts store should be like $10-$15. why? because these are LEDs and there is not enough load. Therefore your OEM relay thinks theres an open and the rear blinkers wont flash. If youre getting resistors get 8-10 ohm. There are also load balancers that other places sell but I recommend a new relay.

Hope this helps and feel free to ask if you have any more questions.

Ok got mine installed tonight. No DIY and pics since its a fairly simple install, but ill cover some things to look out for to save you all some pain and time.

1. I used all the stock hardware from the OEM signals except for the locking nut that comes with the protons which I used.

2. This is fairly obvious, but when you cut the wires that go to the OEM signals the black is always your ground and the green is your hot.

3. You will need resistors, or even better get a new relay from autoparts store should be like $10-$15. why? because these are LEDs and there is not enough load. Therefore your OEM relay thinks theres an open and the rear blinkers wont flash. If youre getting resistors get 8-10 ohm. There are also load balancers that other places sell but I recommend a new relay.

Hope this helps and feel free to ask if you have any more questions.

No pics..it didn't happen :D

:whathesaid:

Holy crap John, what flushmounts?!?!?

All I see is one sexy bike. :p

ehhhh.....too lazy and cold to take pics. I was wiring that thing up like a mad man in the garage with my hands freezing trying to crimp everything together.:p

Quick question. I hate electricity and know little about it (besides what I learned in Physics...) If you buy a new relay would it still work with the stock rear signals or would those have to be LEDs too?

Quick question. I hate electricity and know little about it (besides what I learned in Physics...) If you buy a new relay would it still work with the stock rear signals or would those have to be LEDs too?

yup, swap out your stock flasher relay will work...i swapped mine out a year ago when switching to LED signals... no resistor = no heat :p

Cool.
Man, now that my wrist is semi-functional again my to-do list doubled...

Cool.
Man, now that my wrist is semi-functional again my to-do list doubled...

+1

I cant believe these require another purchase. F^ck.. for the price!!!!!
I swear it said they were internally balanced for use right outta the box..These r bs. Look good though :D

+1

I cant believe these require another purchase. F^ck.. for the price!!!!!
I swear it said they were internally balanced for use right outta the box..These r bs. Look good though :D

That's exactly what I was thinkin' when I saw Sloppy talkin' about resistors! The description on NewEnough definitely says you don't need resistors. WTF!? :angry7:

http://www.newenoughhp.com/parts/turn_signals__led%27s/high_tech_speed/kawasaki_motorcycle_proton_light_flush_mount_led_turn_signals.html
"Internal load balancer prevents the Proton LED’s from “fast flashing” – No resistor’s necessary!"

Mine should be in soon. I'm wiring them without resistors to check first. If that doesn't work NE is gonna be hearing from me!

That's exactly what I was thinkin' when I saw Sloppy talkin' about resistors! The description on NewEnough definitely says you don't need resistors. WTF!? :angry7:

http://www.newenoughhp.com/parts/turn_signals__led%27s/high_tech_speed/kawasaki_motorcycle_proton_light_flush_mount_led_turn_signals.html
"Internal load balancer prevents the Proton LED’s from “fast flashing” – No resistor’s necessary!"

Mine should be in soon. I'm wiring them without resistors to check first. If that doesn't work NE is gonna be hearing from me!

Yeah ya know. "WTF" $100!!!! Get out of here maniacs....they're two little f-ing lights!
Post back if you wire these up W/O flasher relays and they work.
If they don't then please gently inform NE so they know then send a nasty Email to high tech speed telling them they sould include the frickin resistors or advertise if they're needed or not. crap. but they still look good:D f-ers

Yeah ya know. "WTF" $100!!!! Get out of here maniacs....they're two little f-ing lights!
Post back if you wire these up W/O resistors and they work.
If they don't then please gently inform NE so they know then send a nasty Email to high tech speed telling them they sould include the frickin resistors or advertise if they're needed or not. crap. but they still look good:D f-ers

That's the plan.

I agree....the site should get rid of the "no resistors necessary" part of the description. Heres why, they need resistors or new relay per Mike at HTS. "The Proton lights have a timing circuit that measures the blink rate of the OEM flasher and will adjust their blink speed to compensate. They don’t actually add load so the flasher will generally still speed up when the Proton lights are installed."

Which is a problem on our bikes because almost on every other bike in the entire world an open in the flasher circuit constitutes a faster flash. :rolleyes: Well in Kawasaki's infinite wisdom they changed the relay for the 250R so it will be steady instead. Im pretty positive the other Kawis have the "fast flash if open circuit" thing too.

Lastly, If you guys decide to go with these blinkers I really recommend getting the new relay instead of going the resistor route.

I feel your guys pain....I was pretty pissed off myself when I had to go for a relay run to the autoparts store. I felt the same way wondering what was going on and why it wasn't working but, then it all made sense after experimenting a little. I didnt mind getting the relay since I plan on getting the CA integrated tails and that will cause the same problem so I would have had to replace the relay anyways.

So how is the fitment? Visibility from the front???? Any review, feedback??????
Posted via Mobile Device

Fitment and finish quality are top notch. Visibility is excellent, with the rider off these can be seen from front, side, and rear of the bike. I didnt expect anything less from these guys on overall quality since I've owned their blinkers and know a lot of people that have the same on many different bikes. I am a little dissapointed in the fact that it does need something additional to complete the install and their website says no resistors needed. For the 250s I think they need to remove that part in the description since I dont think they will change the circuitry from the way it is now.

Pics are attached on first post so they dont get lost in this thread. They are from my phone so theyre not the greatest.

hi guys,
i'm new here (rookie rider) and looking to get an 09 250 soon.
they are very nice. how much do they run for?
i've seen the color on the rims of a lot of bikes. are they painted on or tape?
thanks,
tn

Lookin' good Sloppy, just realized you posted pics on the first post. OK, so at this point I'm hopin' I can wire the resistors from my rear signals into the same parallel as these... already bummin' 'bout this.

hi guys,
i'm new here (rookie rider) and looking to get an 09 250 soon.
they are very nice. how much do they run for?
i've seen the color on the rims of a lot of bikes. are they painted on or tape?
thanks,
tn

Can't answer your price question, but as for the colour on the rims most people get rim tape, the only painted rim I know of is Beast's bike. Heres a picture, hope he doesn't mind.

And the flushmounts are look good mate.

Can't answer your price question, but as for the colour on the rims most people get rim tape, the only painted rim I know of is Beast's bike. Heres a picture, hope he doesn't mind.

And the flushmounts are look good mate.

wait i'm confused. isn't rim tape goes inside your tire to protect the tubes?

wait i'm confused. isn't rim tape goes inside your tire to protect the tubes?

No, rim tape or rim 'stripes' are a cosmetic modification. Some can be considered a safety mod because they are reflective. But, in general, they are just a colored strip that goes around the wheel between the spokes and the tire.

Here's one of the first google image hits:

http://image06.webshots.com/6/5/81/96/93358196GOaXHz_ph.jpg

Pretty much what Ryne said, Rim tape is for looks but reflective ones can help a rider be more visible at night time.

Ok, so back to the point.
I just spent about 40 minutes on the phone with New Enough as well as the ‘Proton’ guys. NE had called me because my shipment was lost. They promptly refunded my money for shipping, and assured me they would be here soon. I took that opportunity to ask Nate what the situation was with this whole ‘do the Proton Flushmounts require resistors thing.’ He admitted that his electro-mechanical knowledge was minimal. He also said that due to bikes being different, even within the same manufacturer AND model, he is constantly arguing with customers about this issue because there isn’t just one fix for everything. He put me in contact with the people that manufacture these lights.

So I got in contact with Mike ‘the Proton guy’ and started asking him questions. We were talking specifically about my bike and, as some of you may know, I have LEDs in the rear and a resistor from eBay that I’m using to compensate the load and correct the flash rate. So I asked him if I would need resistors for the front, if I could wire the resistors I have in the back to the front also, or if they would just work without any extra? He told me this: the Proton Flushmounts do not have resistors on the circuit board. They do, however, have some means of sensing the flash rate and compensating for it. Mike told me that they MIGHT work for the front, but would probably cause the rears to flash at a different and faster rate. He then suggested I do what Sloppy said and replace my flasher relay with one from Pep Boys/Auto Zone. I then asked him what the difference was. He told me that our bikes/bikes in general have a mechanical relay and these replacement ones from the store are electronic and intuitive, and would therefore correct flash rate for both the front at the rear.

OOOK that was long… sorry

At this point I have a question for Sloppy: Did you replace your signal relay BEFORE you got the Protons? If so, did you still need resistors? What is your entire signal setup (types of lights all around), resistors, relays etc.?

PS My lights will be here no later that Saturday, hopefully I can get them installed and get a real answer to all this soon. I will keep you guys updated.

My setup:
-No resistors
-changed to new relay
-proton front flushmounts
-Stock Rear for now

Ryno, for your specific bike I recommend replacing the relay and removing that resistor you already have for the rear LEDs. The only reason you put resistors on a relay is to put load on the circuit so the stock relay thinks the entire circuit is good and close or fine and dandy. Ideally you probably should have changed your relay when you changed your rears to LEDs. Once the stock circuit senses an open nothing flashes. Which is what it is designed to do so you know that a bulb is out. Technically you could also add more resistors to your circuit when you install the protons to add more load. The problem with resistors is the heat. A few bucks more and you will have a new relay that will work great and you can remove all the crappy looking resistors (less work). Hope this helps and somewhat easy to understand I explained the best I can.

My setup:
-No resistors
-changed to new relay
-proton front flushmounts
-Stock Rear for now

Ryno, for your specific bike I recommend replacing the relay and removing that resistor you already have for the rear LEDs. The only reason you put resistors on a relay is to put load on the circuit so the stock relay thinks the entire circuit is good and close or fine and dandy. Ideally you probably should have changed your relay when you changed your rears to LEDs. Once the stock circuit senses an open nothing flashes. Which is what it is designed to do so you know that a bulb is out. Technically you could also add more resistors to your circuit when you install the protons to add more load. The problem with resistors is the heat. A few bucks more and you will have a new relay that will work great and you can remove all the crappy looking resistors (less work). Hope this helps and somewhat easy to understand I explained the best I can.

Thanks for the info! I totally know what you're saying. I've been reading a lot about this lately, not to mention it's a pretty big part of my studies for the MS degree.

I went out and bought a flasher. I just bought the first 2 pin one I saw... so I'm not totally sure it will work, but I was bored and needed some where to ride. I'll compare it to the stock one before I open the package so I can take it back if I need.

Protons will be here no later that Saturday, so I'll find out if all this works soon.

Here is a picture of it:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h9/ecstasyofgold/IMG00459.jpg

If you can't read it, it says: FL32, Electronic Flasher, Truck and RV, Variable Load, HEAVY DUTY

Protons for the fronts...do you guys swap out LEDs signal for the rear too?

Protons for the fronts...do you guys swap out LEDs signal for the rear too?

I have LEDs in the rear: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16648

Sloppy does not.

I have LEDs in the rear: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16648

Sloppy does not.

ahh..resistors...becareful, those suckers get hot..plastic melting hotness :D

ahh..resistors...becareful, those suckers get hot..plastic melting hotness :D

Yeah, I'm lookin' to get rid of them.

Yeah, I'm lookin' to get rid of them.

do you know how? ;) :p

do you know how? ;) :p

Joke? If you read this thread, we've been talking about it. I know I need a new, electronic, signal relay. I bought one, but I don't think it's the right one. Any idea if it is? If it's not, which one should I get? Not trying to mail order any more stuff... lookin' to shop locally now.

Im 99% sure that relay you have in the pic will work. If not take your stock one off take it to any autoparts store and ask for one.

Joke? If you read this thread, we've been talking about it. I know I need a new, electronic, signal relay. I bought one, but I don't think it's the right one. Any idea if it is? If it's not, which one should I get? Not trying to mail order any more stuff... lookin' to shop locally now.

no joke ;) I'll let you have fun figure things out :p
I'll give you a hint..it's all in the search button :D but may be kkim may be able to help you out ;)

no joke ;) I'll let you have fun figure things out :p
I'll give you a hint..it's all in the search button :D but may be kkim may be able to help you out ;)


What are you talking about dude? Why all the hush hush?....just help the man out.

awwee..u no fun :D

no joke ;) I'll let you have fun figure things out :p
I'll give you a hint..it's all in the search button :D but may be kkim may be able to help you out ;)

I've been searchin'. I'm sure I'll figure it out eventually. Unfortunately for me, the weather is so ****** right now, I can't try anything. Tomorrow is another day...

awwee..u no fun :D



eh youre right......I've been on the other forum :ahem: kawiforums :ahem: too much lately I guess....where the ass hatness outweigh the help.

eh youre right......I've been on the other forum :ahem: kawiforums :ahem: too much lately I guess....where the ass hatness outweigh the help.


oh you're right...the info was on the other forum..not this one :D Opps, my bad.

Anyways, that elec relay is okay for 2 LED signals. But in order to have four LEDs, you need to add a couple of diodes to the bulb/signal indicator. Kawi (and some others like Aprila) combines both right/left signals into one...so you need to put the diodes in to prevent backflows. This is true with the case of putting four LEDs in, when you hit the signal, all four signals will light up solid. Diodes solves this issues...Elec flasher corrects the flashing rate.
Yes, resistors will do but will heat up if you forget to turn off the signals..may cause wires or plastic to melt. Heat will eventually kills the resistors too...not the best route.

oh you're right...the info was on the other forum..not this one :D Opps, my bad.

Anyways, that elec relay is okay for 2 LED signals. But in order to have four LEDs, you need to add a couple of diodes to the bulb/signal indicator. Kawi (and some others like Aprila) combines both right/left signals into one...so you need to put the diodes in to prevent backflows. This is true with the case of putting four LEDs in, when you hit the signal, all four signals will light up solid. Diodes solves this issues...Elec flasher corrects the flashing rate.
Yes, resistors will do but will heat up if you forget to turn off the signals..may cause wires or plastic to melt. Heat will eventually kills the resistors too...not the best route.

Ok, I'm now even more 'confused', an LED IS a diode. So, WTF mate?

Ok, I'm now even more 'confused', an LED IS a diode. So, WTF mate?

LED is a type of diode.. Look at the attached pictures.

LED is a type of diode.. Look at the attached pictures.

I see those. At this point, it all depends on how early I get up tomorrow. If I'm up early enough to try any of this stuff, I will. Otherwise, I'm headin' out to Muncie to see my sis.

I see those. At this point, it all depends on how early I get up tomorrow. If I'm up early enough to try any of this stuff, I will. Otherwise, I'm headin' out to Muncie to see my sis.

i have carefully calculated your feng shui...June 16th is a good day to do it LOL :D

i have carefully calculated your feng shui...June 16th is a good day to do it LOL :D

hahaha I will be back in class by then. Latest would be the second week of May hahah :thumbup:

I don't even have the lights yet so... yeah, th3 gh3y

John, its a good thing you had your front and rears switched out before I did. Would have been another PITA if I started installing rear LEDs and had to stop to make/add these diodes to the circuit. Thanks for the writeup. :thumbup:

Anyone else got them in and installed? Any other feedback& review or opinion?? Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

Ok, got them installed.

They are definitely well made, but the I would only give the fitment a 7/10. They don't fit quite perfectly... at least not on my bike. They are super bright though! I will get some flashing pics eventually.

So, I decided to try the lights without diodes. And maybe those will solve my problem. As of right now, when I turn the signal on, all four of my signals flash at varying rates. So essentially my signals are useless... again. Keep in mind I have LEDs with resistors in the rear. Lastly, I tried that flasher/relay on page two, and it works great, but doesn't stop all the lights from flashing. I have run out of time to keep trying stuff, so I won't be able to try using any potential comments you guys may have to fix them...

Anyway, here are some pics:

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h9/ecstasyofgold/DSCN0731.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h9/ecstasyofgold/DSCN0734.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h9/ecstasyofgold/DSCN0732.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h9/ecstasyofgold/DSCN0733.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h9/ecstasyofgold/DSCN0735.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h9/ecstasyofgold/DSCN0736.jpg

i dig!

looks great!! could you show a pic of the area that "(doesn't) fit quite perfectly"? thanks.

Looks great but it looks like it's not too visible from the front like the cbr. Perhaps it's the angle of the fairing. Nice job though.
Posted via Mobile Device

That looks great.

Ryne,
Did you mount them like I posted? Mine fit perfectly.

I'm pretty sure I mounted them properly, Sloppy. As for pictures of the somewhat poor fitment, those will have to wait. It is raining here... again. I rode to my soccer game and it started pouring while we were playing. So, I just got back from my first rain ride! ...It sucked ass

OK, so for these diodes. The single wire goes to the dash indicator light and the 2 wires go... where? Spliced into the actual indicator (+) wires?

Got a set on the way! :D

Hi guys,

I am Mike from HighTechSpeed.

I just wanted to sign on and address a couple questions. I am not here to spam you :D

First, thanks for the orders - it is much appreciated. Nate @ New Enough and one of our dealers in Australia were telling me "you have to make these for the 250R, so many want them!", so we did. Glad they were well received.

So just to address a couple questions/comments

1) The Proton lights do not have "built in resistors". They have a microcontroller chip that monitors the flash speed, and if it is too fast (or too slow), it will slow the blink speed of the Proton lights. This won't fix "fast flash" that occurs from using LED signals.

The reason we don't include resistors, is that the LEDs we use are pretty high power LED's. People think LED's don't get hot, but they actually do... we are at the limit of the thermal capability of the Proton light, so to include a ginormous resistor in there would push it way over the edge. External resistors are feasible, but clunky... they get hot, they are a pain to mount.

IMO, the best solution is an electronic flasher. Instead of just adding load (and wasted power) like resistors do, they actually cure the problem, rather than address the symptoms.

2) Why we don't include resistors or a flasher. Resistors are cheap and easy... we could include them but I dislike that solution. I know people who had them overheat and melt their plastic, or who had them short out and blow fuses. They are OK but not the best solution.

As for not including a flasher, the answer is because there are lots of companies in China making hundreds of millions of flasher relays, and because of this you can always get it cheaper locally than I could ever hope to sell them for.


3) Connectors. We don't include the OEM connectors for two reasons. First, it would mean a lot of extra stuff we need to do - having the crimping tools, keeping track of the various connectors, etc. The other (and real) problem is some bikes use proprietary connectors that they don't sell, and while there are a few companies that knock them off, it is a gray area. I recommend cutting the wires from the OEM signal, so this still gives you the plug/unplug functionality when you remove the fairing.

4) Waterproofing. They are totally sealed. The front is CNC machined from solid acrylic, then the board is inserted and the cavity is filled with epoxy. Proton lights laugh at water :)

5) Price. I know they aren't cheap... and I don't want to sound flippant, but "quality costs money" - it's true. If you compare with a $40 signal, the manufacturer probably sells that to a wholesaler for $15... and they want to make money, so there may be $5 of parts in the pair, probably less.

We use solid acrylic and machine it to a fitted shape. Each pair probably takes 20-30 minutes on the CNC machine to make. The LED's are high-power 5-lumen (per LED) units, and there are 12 per flushmount. There are also 2 microcontrollers, two constant-current LED drivers, various other parts to keep them running for life, etc. We probably have more $$$ in parts in the Proton lights than the MSRP of the $40 flushmounts. I would say any of the high-end flushmounts that is probably the case.

You also have to figure that if the price on any of the high ends units was, lets say $60, that means $40 worth of "stuff" has to be taken out of the product. The middlemen wouldn't eat that $40, so it comes out in the form of cheaper parts and such.

I am very sensitive to the price issue, so we try to keep the value high with high brightness (~60 lumens per flushmount), running lights, programmable patterns, etc.

6) Fitment. On the 250R there is a left and right, so be sure they are installed in the corresponding side. The fairings on bikes are not super precise, there is a pretty wide tolerance, so you sort of have to decide how much to push the close-fit issue. On the 250R, we have a slight lip around the bottom which makes it fit into the fairing and stay in place. I can post a pic of how they should fit and look, if anyone is interested, and that way if anyone has them in wrong, you could see how they should be. The fairing hole on the 250R is very deep (and hence, very tapered), so rather than coming up with a spacer (which we tried but seemed hokey), we added a slight lip at the front.


Hope this answers the questions, if anyone has any others, definitely feel free to get in touch, email is best since I am usually pretty busy at work and don't get a lot of chances to come to the forums.



Hey so how are you guys enjoying these bikes? It seems they are very hot for '09. I was actually hoping to get one as a "shop bike" to modify and use for projects, but all the Kawi dealers around here are super sticklers on charging over MSRP, so I just passed. I think it is a hot looking bike though, and I can imagine how well it handles.

Ok, it's Friday @ 5:30pm, got a few hours of maching left to do before I head out, so I better get going on it :) Cheers!

Mike

Oh, and a little fun fact...

the amount of power you save going with Proton lights (or any LED's really) in place of a 35W bulb signal, comes out to about 0.005 horsepower.

So the next time someone says "yeah they LOOK nice but they don't make you go faster", you can say... "actually, they DO!".

Have a great weekend folks!

Thanks for posting Mike. Im pretty sure I talked to you on the phone, you were very helpful to me and now very helpful to everyone. Reps for you guys!

As for me giving it a mediocre fitment rating, that probably came form me mounting them on the wrong sides.

Random, I'm gonna be hittin' you up for some more info on those diodes in the next week or so. School is almost over and I will have nothing to do but play with my toy!

Thanks for posting Mike. Im pretty sure I talked to you on the phone, you were very helpful to me and now very helpful to everyone. Reps for you guys!

As for me giving it a mediocre fitment rating, that probably came form me mounting them on the wrong sides.

Random, I'm gonna be hittin' you up for some more info on those diodes in the next week or so. School is almost over and I will have nothing to do but play with my toy!

I remember talking to you, glad to be of help.

One other question I forgot to address was why we don't do them in other colors. We machine them from solid acrylic, and as such the acrylic varies in thickness on the finished product. It's "dome shaped" and in the center of the dome it is a lot thicker than at the edges. Tinted acrylic has the color mixed into the material, not just on the surface, so the thicker it is, the darker it is. We tried some smoke colored acrylic, and it was dark in the center, and light around the outside. Looked like crap to be honest.

A company called Testors makes tint paint. It is made for tinting the windows of RC cars. It is cheap, something like $4 a can. Each coat you spray on makes the part one shade darker. It works really well, I used it for some prototype lenses for a digital gauge just a few weeks ago.

They make the tint paint in smoke/gray color as well as different candy colors. I've had people tint the lenses to match the color of their bike.

Just bear in mind that any tint applied will reduce the light output, especially colored tint - not a whole lot of amber light will pass through a blue tinted lens, for example.




If you guys have any electronics questions in general, I mean stuff that is unrelated to our products, feel free to PM me or shoot me an email and I will be happy to help. I know a lot of times electronics and wiring is like a black art to people who don't do it for a living, and I know bike shops charge $$$$ for their work, so if anyone has any questions on anything so they can do it themselves, hit me up and I am happy to help however I can.

Cheers
Mike

This display of service and professionalism pushed me into ordering a pair.

Is the 250's Photon has running light? It'd be real nice if it incorporates the superbright leds like that of the new Watson design...like this one.
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=139006

Thanks for the info! I totally know what you're saying. I've been reading a lot about this lately, not to mention it's a pretty big part of my studies for the MS degree.

I went out and bought a flasher. I just bought the first 2 pin one I saw... so I'm not totally sure it will work, but I was bored and needed some where to ride. I'll compare it to the stock one before I open the package so I can take it back if I need.

Protons will be here no later that Saturday, so I'll find out if all this works soon.

Here is a picture of it:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h9/ecstasyofgold/IMG00459.jpg

If you can't read it, it says: FL32, Electronic Flasher, Truck and RV, Variable Load, HEAVY DUTY


Anyone have a definative answer as to whether or not this flasher idea works?

I'm a little nervous right now as I have the BikeLitez rear LEDs integrated with the rear fender.

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j258/imzadi930/utf-8BSU1HMDAyMzUtMjAwOTA1MDctMTEwN.jpg

They are installed using resistors. The Protons don't have resistors so I'm contemplating re-wiring the rears to eliminate the shop installed resistors...

I need to know which flasher to buy.

I'll chip in for the hookers and cocaine if someone pens a DIY for this!

Ok, I have LED rears and the Proton fronts. Currently using resistors but also tried the flasher. The flasher and the resistors did NOT work for my setup. As is, when I select a direction for signals, ALL THE LIGHTS FLASH.

The flasher pictured above DOES WORK for just the LED rears in place of resistors, but as I said, doesn't solve the "all lights flash" problem with the Protons AND LED rears.

The last two questions have already been answered on post 76 of this thread by Randomwalk. If you have LEDs on front and rear you have to add diodes no other way around this.

oh you're right...the info was on the other forum..not this one :D Opps, my bad.

Anyways, that elec relay is okay for 2 LED signals. But in order to have four LEDs, you need to add a couple of diodes to the bulb/signal indicator. Kawi (and some others like Aprila) combines both right/left signals into one...so you need to put the diodes in to prevent backflows. This is true with the case of putting four LEDs in, when you hit the signal, all four signals will light up solid. Diodes solves this issues...Elec flasher corrects the flashing rate.
Yes, resistors will do but will heat up if you forget to turn off the signals..may cause wires or plastic to melt. Heat will eventually kills the resistors too...not the best route.


Okay my bike is torn apart, and experience the flashing on all led's. Protons on front, led rear. First time I heard about this diode fix and have a few questions.

I'm not familiar with electronics, so is it just any diode? Checking Radio Shack I see various amps...switching diodes, etc. type of diodes.

I don't have my service manual yet, so how many diodes total for all for led lights? I'm not sure of the routing. So for left turn signal, it's 2 diodes in between 2 wires that are cut originaly going to the bulb? So from there, are the 2 wires split off to each the left front and left rear led. So just 4 diodes total (2 left, 2 right) to run all 4 led's?

sorry for confusion, it will be easier once i can tear into the dash tomorrow...which is another question..we have to remove the whole top dash right?

I only have LED rear turn signals and all I did was replace the stock flasher relay with an electronic flasher (which you can buy at most auto parts stores). I just plugged in the new one, and everything flashed perfectly.

I think there is at least one person on this board that has LEDs for all 4 turn signals and all they did was use an electronic flasher relay (no resistors or diodes).

Does the electronic flasher work for 4 LED signals?

I only have LED rear turn signals and all I did was replace the stock flasher relay with an electronic flasher (which you can buy at most auto parts stores). I just plugged in the new one, and everything flashed perfectly.

I think there is at least one person on this board that has LEDs for all 4 turn signals and all they did was use an electronic flasher relay (no resistors or diodes).

Does the electronic flasher work for 4 LED signals?

oops I forgot to specify I already switched the relay out. I used a Motrax Flash It picked up at cycle gear
http://www.motrax.co.uk/index.php?mod=product&id_prd=162

it worked fine with the 2 front protons and stock rears in correcting flash rate. It did limit the strobe back to normal flash though.

As for 4 led setup, i couldn't test because one of the rear led lights didn't work. When I return from the store for exchange later i'll hook them up to test. Eventually I'll do Rynownd's mod, it looks very good but until then I want to make sure all lights function properly.

but according to post 76 of this thread, with 4 led's, we need diodes so i'll get a bunch of those too. I think we just need 4 diodes, 2 for each side (turn signal indicator). I'll update later

It would be nice if one of you electrical guru's here would compile all this info into a one stop LED DIY. Anyone?

Okay update

Got the new led's, installed them. ALL lights flash when turn signal is on. This means I need to install diodes and the electronic relay doesn't fix this, just the flash rate.

So I review the instructions from post 76, and it describes to solder 2 diodes to one wire to indicator light, and 2 wires from diode ends to wires going to socket(s). Now a little confusion here...what 2 wires?? I can understand possible one wire being the green one from light, but what 2nd wire? Also I didn't know what voltage of diodes to buy at Fry's electronics. I bought 4 diodes of 12 volt 1 watt, this good? We only need to use 2 diodes?

Please see all pics, I took photos of under the dash with complete notes. I drew an illustration of what maybe we need to do, I don't know if this is correct. The wires are colored to exact ones on the bike. Sorry but i can't update any more info since I have the bike at my parent's garage and I don't live there. I won't be able to work on it until next weekend, but and idea of what to do would help me and the others.

Anyone that installed 4 leds lights to the 250 please let us know what wires you connected. A drawing of full connection would help good, i did mine in photoshop but just plain paint will do.

This project i thought would be cake compared to putting sliders on last week hasn't been haha...and just bought the 2008 2 weeks ago. Would like to get this going and put back together...pieces everywhere. Thanks for any help and i hope the photos will help others

My bike is disarray haha...
for being mechanically inept so far i think these things are fairly easy to work on.

If anyone needs the service manual to this bike or others, check out this store on ebay
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/MANUAL-WIZARD__W0QQ_armrsZ1

I got the service manual for about $36 shipped free within 3 days. It's a good quality manual and so far has shown how to destroy i mean tear down my bike appropriately :) How sad though I haven't even ridden it yet...but not until i learn how to ride, get insurance and make sure them sliders were on!

From another thread:

If you keep the stock front turn signals, all you need to do is replace the flasher relay. If you go with LEDs for all 4 turn signals, you need to do more than just replace the flasher relay (and I'm not sure what it is that you have to do :) ).

We sell the Acumen LED Universal Relay and it handles 1-100 LED's. Just makes sure you buy a relay that has a similair spec.

I used the information I learned in this thread and was told that if you have the correct flasher relay everything should work fine.

Now, which is correct? :confused:

I don't know about that acumen relay. I do know the the light wires are tied together running front/rear right, front/rear left so I think this has more to do with powerflow in the lines. The flasher relay will only control flash rate sync. Without the electric relay, the protons flash good but the rears stay on. Replacing the relay allowed them to flash equally, but the protons are dumbed down to normal flash rate.
The electronic flasher works fine if you're only using 2 leds, but to have 4 leds he said we need diodes.

The diodes I read are to stop the power from flowing back up the line and causing the other side lights to flash. I posted this on another forum and someone replied with an answer specifying my drawing is correct.

I need to attach the 2 diodes to the green and gray wire before socket (which goes to left and right side of bike) and then solder it to the green wire. Post 76 said any wire, so I guess we could attach to the gray one on the indicator light as well.

here is link
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/main-lobby/109914-need-help-installing-4-led-lights-2008-250r.html#post1621906

Any other help is appreciated, i'm not sure if this will work and I won't be able to test until Sunday.

Hopefully Rynowned can confirm the diode placement in my pics/drawing, or someone else that installed 4 leds.

sorry been busy but last week all is working fine now.

With 4 led lights just use a electrical flasher, easier.
Wiring is correct, to get 4 led's to work on this bike you need to get under the dash and solder the 2 diodes from one side of turn signal to the positives of each side of bike before socket connector. (for my 2008 250, green and gray wire). All was working fine but noticed my turn signal indicator light not flashing, this is because you need to connect the other wire from turn indicator (my case, gray wire) to ground.

see pic of wiring after completion

attached is a pic of both the proton left side and rear led captured when both flashed on, the led's are much brighter than stock and worth the mod. Bike is still torn apart, hence both fairings on one side so I have room to walk :)

bought from ebay some integrated clear led turn signals in mirrors so will be installing those tomorrow, so total 6 led turn lights and all tinted out. Tuesday the smoked led strips arrive to do the Rynownd mod.

Protons are nice but wait for Watsen... It's 10x brighter. :D
www.watsendesign.com

i put on these protons on my 09 a few weeks ago.. LOVE THEM.. only thing needed was the relay which i picked up for 10 at autozone. great product!!

I dunno, Watsen doesn't seem very interested in Kawasaki. I don't see any flashers on their site compatible with Kawa bikes made since Dick Cheney had his little shooting 'accident' (2006).

I am so close to getting these....

They look really nice, but I don't think I could spend $100 on them.

+1

almost turned me from my stockers.

Hi guys,

I got a PM about this and saw there was some confusion, so let me try to add some info that will hopefully help.

Regarding diodes... an electronic flasher should flash fine with any number of LED's or bulbs, provided the total wattage is within spec of the flasher.

I've seen some electronic flashers sold as "heavy duty flashers" (used for people who add more blinkers when towing a trailer, for example) that have a minimum wattage requirement. If you run less wattage through such a flasher than the minimum, you will likely get unpredictable results (like both sides coming on when you hit one blinker, etc).

The reason diodes are sometimes required is a not-very-well-thought out design on some turn signals. If you have an LED signal and you want it to have two intensity levels, there are a few ways to accomplish this. On a dual intensity LED signal, you have three wires going in - running light, blinker, and ground.

The "wrong" way to make the signal is just to put a resistor on the running light wire. It will work, but what happens is that when you hit your running light, you also have 12 volts (but at low current) on your blinker wire. The current isn't enough to light up a bulb, but it's enough to turn on an LED in many cases, and definitely enough to screw up an electronic flasher relay. The way it's supposed to work is the blinker has 0 volts on it until the rider hits the turn signal, than it should go from 0 to 12 volts about once a second.

Back in the day, before LED's were popular, a few people making LED signals just put a resistor on the running light wire of their LED signal and it worked. From the customers perspective, the problem lies with the signals that are coming on when they shouldn't, even though the problem originates at the signal that looks like it's working OK.

Using a resistor to control running light brightness is acceptable, but the manufacturer of the light should be putting a diode on the blinker wire coming out of the signal to prevent power flowing back out of the signal to other lights. It's the neighborly thing to do :)

I would guess that the people who have had issues with 4 LED signals are probably using LED signals with running lights, and those signals don't have diodes installed and are therefore leaking out power on the blinker wire. I've seen it before, although it's less common these days.

If that is the case, the simple fix is a couple of diodes. A diode has a ring around one end of the case. That means the diode lets power flow from the end without the ring, and out of the end with the ring. But it won't let power flow the other way. It's like a one-way valve. So if you install a diode on the blinker wire of each of the offending signals, with the ring side installed towards the signal, and the other end installed to the bikes wiring, this will let power from the circuit flow into the LED signal though the diode, but will prevent power flowing back out of the signal and into the turn signal circuit, screwing up other things (like other LED signals or flasher relays).

As for what diodes to use, 12 volts is nothing to a diode, so almost any diode should support this voltage. The more important one is the current. It just needs a current rating higher than the signals it's connected to. Most of the fat black diodes you get at Radio Shack (like a 1N4001 or 1N4004) will be maybe 1 amp or 5 amps. 5 amps is more than enough, 1 amp should be OK for most LED signals too.

Hope this answers a bit of the mystery.

Thanks
Mike

i think my question has been answered...but i want to make sure i get the right thing...i have read this entire thread...as well as the how to wire the diode and the bike monkey thread....i did SEARCH here, google, and some other forums...and called cycle gear...so...my question, which i think was answered above...i should get a 5 amp diode??? and i can get this at radio shack? and yes...i already changed my flasher relay...thank you

dawn, 5amp is fine...any 12 volts diode is fine..you'll need two.

So just to clarify.... when the Proton people say their unit is plug-n-play because their circuitry takes care of it all, they are on crack?

They're saying that you need to add something to maintain the stock flash rate. I have all LED blinkers on my Yamaha and used a relay. Quick and easy, 5 second install. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LED-MOTORCYCLE-TURN-SIGNAL-SIGNALS-RELAY-FLASHER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19b88fb8e3QQitemZ110470609123QQptZMotorcycles Q5fPartsQ5fAccessories

They're saying that you need to add something to maintain the stock flash rate. I have all LED blinkers on my Yamaha and used a relay. Quick and easy, 5 second install. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LED-MOTORCYCLE-TURN-SIGNAL-SIGNALS-RELAY-FLASHER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19b88fb8e3QQitemZ110470609123QQptZMotorcycles Q5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Yes, I know that in general, but what I meant by "they" is the proton makers who claim you don't need to add anything else.

oops... got post 76.

I'm finally getting around to trying some protons in the near future. After reading thru this thread at least 4-5 times and spending the last 30min looking at the wiring diagram for the bike I'm gonna try and condense the 120+ posts into a one-stop concept photo for diode use in this project. I tried to use all the appropriate color schemes for the stock wiring (green or grey for + lines, blk/yellow for ground). Please correct me if I'm wrong anywhere.

There seems to be two methods of using the diodes mentioned in this thread, varying by where you want to do the splicing and how many diodes you wanna use. By splicing in just behind the dash you use 2 diodes total or one per signal by splicing in at the new signal lamps.

note1: in the first method (randomwalk101/novak2k9), you could potentially swap the green/grey wires coming out of the dash indicator lamp so green goes to ground and grey goes to the diodes.
note2: the first method has been confirmed by at least two forum members, I don't know if anyone has used the second (mike_hts) method
5341

Awesome, thanks Momaru!

Now I don't know why the Proton people claim you don't need to do this.... perhaps they didn't REALLY test it on our bikes.

I think I remember reading that our signalling control system is considerably simpler than that of many bikes. Our single turn-signal indicator light electrically bridges the left and right sides of the bike since it's only one light. In a system that had separate blinker indicators for left/right, I don't think it'd be a problem. That and I bet they designed the lights/advertising materials from the standpoint of this being the first light mod in an otherwise stock bike.

I agree that perhaps they need to revise the advertising materials a bit. But hey, at least we've got a community of people to put our collective heads together, figure this stuff out and make it a non-issue :D

Ok, finally got my protons in but I've got a question for those of you that have already done it. They say for one to connect the red wire to the running light input and either/both the orange and yellow wires to the blinker signal. Since we've only got a blinker signal do I hook up both red + orange/yellow to the power input? I suppose I could find a switched supply to feed the running light (red wire), but not 100% sure I wanna do that atm.

I'd just go plug it in to figure it out m'self but it's raining pretty hard at the moment and looks to continue for a few days. Wanting to go ahead and solder the extensions onto my proton cabling so I can just slap 'em in when my connectors arrive.

Thanks!

Edit: Figured it out and did a DIY to help others:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=36477

I should be ready to, cause I just spent my entire easter sunday messing with this. Put the protons on 08 250r and like most others on here, the rear turn signals didn't flash. Tried the resistor fix - no good. Tried the diode fix - no good. Yeah i stripped a lot of wires and burned a lot of solder for easter.

In the end the fix I came up wich is free and everyone should have the parts....

I took the bulbs out of the OEM front turn signals. I soldered 18 guage wire to the two terminals (tip and side) and we (she helped) wrapped the bulb and attached wires in electrical tape.

If you are going to say its going to get hot and be a problem. We tested for that before we gobbed it up with tape and stuffed a potential fire ball up under the front of her new baby. we ran the turn signal for 30 minutes and the bulb was cool enough to touch.

NOTE: The flash speed in this fix is a little fast, but she found it acceptable.

HOW TO:

hook up the proton and the old bulb in parallel.
For those not circuit inclined - That means:

Plug each of the ends of the old bulb into one of the two signals running to the proton.

I should be ready to, cause I just spent my entire easter sunday messing with this. Put the protons on 08 250r and like most others on here, the rear turn signals didn't flash. Tried the resistor fix - no good. Tried the diode fix - no good. Yeah i stripped a lot of wires and burned a lot of solder for easter.

In the end the fix I came up wich is free and everyone should have the parts....

I took the bulbs out of the OEM front turn signals. I soldered 18 guage wire to the two terminals (tip and side) and we (she helped) wrapped the bulb and attached wires in electrical tape.

If you are going to say its going to get hot and be a problem. We tested for that before we gobbed it up with tape and stuffed a potential fire ball up under the front of her new baby. we ran the turn signal for 30 minutes and the bulb was cool enough to touch.

NOTE: The flash speed in this fix is a little fast, but she found it acceptable.

HOW TO:

hook up the proton and the old bulb in parallel.
For those not circuit inclined - That means:

Plug each of the ends of the old bulb into one of the two signals running to the proton.

Just in case you didn't know, if the only modification you performed concerning LED's were the proton turn signals (still using OEM rear turn-signals & OEM taillight) then all you required was an LED flash relay (2 prong) which you can pick up at any Auto store (i.e. Autozone) for around $10.

The diode fix resolves issues when using 4 (or more) LED's on your bike, such as usng the proton turn signals as well as the bikemonkey integrated LED tail light. (of course LED flash relay is still required)

for all I know, that may help someone else, though it has already been repeated many times :thumbup:

I wasn't clear till after I gave up and just put the bulbs.
Not everyone wants to go to the store and get a flasher and find it on their bike and replace it.

Reason that I decided not to......
Nobody on here has a specific spec for the flasher.

Last thing I needed was to waste more time going to stores buying/returning flashers.

When the way I hacked it was free and guaranteed.

I do think that if someone would post a pick of the specific 2-prong LED flash relay tha tis mentioned above, that might clarify some things and make people's lives easier.

My other question is this: all told, how long does this install actually take and how complicated is it if you are only doing the front signals?

It seems pretty simple if you are installing the front proton signals and keeping the stock rear signals, but it does seem a bit more complicated and involved if you are doing the BikeMonkey or other LED rear lights as well. Is this an accurate statement?

I do think that if someone would post a pick of the specific 2-prong LED flash relay tha tis mentioned above, that might clarify some things and make people's lives easier.

There's a number of pictures of various relays that work on other threads relating to replacing turn signals, be thry the integrated rear, etc. I'll try to swing by Advance tonight and get a pic of the one I got that works for me with its packaging.

My other question is this: all told, how long does this install actually take and how complicated is it if you are only doing the front signals?

It seems pretty simple if you are installing the front proton signals and keeping the stock rear signals, but it does seem a bit more complicated and involved if you are doing the BikeMonkey or other LED rear lights as well. Is this an accurate statement?

I linked the DIY I made on post #125 of this thread for the protons; that's about as complex as it gets just doing the front signals. If you're good with a soldering iron (or choose to use crimp-butt connectors) and don't care about hacking up your stock wiring I suspect you could complete in 30mins, not including removing the necessary fairing bits. The way I did it took about 2 hours, again not including fairing removal, but I can switch back to stock blinkers up front in 10min.

Has anyone tried to mount Front Turn signals from a 07,08,09 ZX-6R onto a 08-10 250R?
I really like the ZX-6R's front turn signals!

I really like the ZX-6R's front turn signals!

Me to
;)

Today I got my Proton Flush Mounts mounted together with the Tail Light from CustomLED and I would like to share my experience with you.
After uninstalling all standard Turn Signals and installing the LED Flush Mount Turn Signals and the Tail Light with the Turn Signals inside we tested if they would indicate with the standard Flasher Relay and they did. The only thing was that they'd indicate alternately, but the speed was normal.
So we'd install the IC Relay and now they indicate both at the same time with normal speed. No resistors or diode necessary.
For sure this combination isn't the cheapest but I think it is the best. The old people in Germany say, if you buy cheap you pay double.

Have a nice day and keep the good times rolling. :thumbup: