camaroz1985
March 17th, 2009, 08:05 AM
I decided to tackle this project over the weekend. I was expecting the worse in terms of fitting things, and having to take more fairings off, but it was relatively simple. Sorry, I didn’t think to take pictures as I was doing it, so all my pictures are of the completed project (or nearly completed), but show the process and steps you need to take.
First you will need to take off the two side black plastic pieces under the seat, and then the seat itself. I forgot to take pictures before hand, but if you once you remove the seat this is what you will find.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/Under_Seat.jpg
I took the two relays out of the brackets (just pull them upward) and tucked them into the right rear fairing to keep them out of the way.
Next it was time to find space for the components we will need. The relay fits nicely up in the area under the rear seat.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/P3151076.jpg
The relays we moved and the auxiliary fuse block will sit on the battery hold down.
You’ll notice I used Velcro to secure everything. I’m not fond of making irreversible changes to the bike. If I want to take this off in the future I will only have to remove the Velcro and de-solder a splice and re-solder the original wires back together.
This is the wiring diagram we will be following.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/Aux_FB_Wiring_Diag.jpg
I also had some relay connectors left from one of my car projects so I used them. They didn’t have the right gage wire so I removed the contacts and replaced them with leads that did. If you don’t have access to these you can use individual wires with crimp terminals. I recommend using 14AWG wire for everything but the tap into the horn circuit. For this you can use 20 or 22AWG.
Here you can see my connections to the relay connector. The Yellow/Red wire is power from battery + terminal, to the inline fuse, and then to the relay 30 terminal. The Yellow/Blue wire is from the relay 87 terminal to the positive lug on the fuse block. The Black/Red wire is ground from the relay 86 terminal to the battery – terminal. Finally the Green wire is the trigger wire from the horn switched + to the relay 85 terminal. When you are making your connections make sure that there are not any fuse in the any of the circuits you are working on (horn, and your inline fuse). This will prevent an accidental short to the frame.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/P3151077.jpg
The only part of this that is hard (not physically, just mentally because you are cutting into your bike) is splicing to the horn circuit. Using the service manual I found the wire we want is the Brown/White wire shown here. If you remove the fuse you can use a multimeter to check the wire directly across from our trigger wire (circuit is completed by the fuse so the terminal we are using won’t have any power with the fuse out. It should be 0V with the key off and 12V with the key on.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/P3151079.jpg
I chose to cut the wire and solder my splice back together. You can also use a crimp connector or a quick splice.
Now that all the connections are made we can hook everything up and test it. Once you reinstall the horn fuse and put a 10A fuse in your inline holder you should see 0V at your ring terminal for the fuse block when the key is of, and 12V when the key is on.
You can see everything hooked up here.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/P3151081.jpg
Once I checked everything I taped up my wiring and used Velcro to attach the fuse block and relays to the battery hold down.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/P3151082.jpg
I did move my wires around a little bit after the picture to make it look a little cleaner.
Make sure you use dielectric grease in your connections to protect them from corrosion and water. Also make sure you cover the + post on your fuse block. There is room under the seat for everything (yes I checked before I started :)), but the fuses toward the front are kind of tight. You might want to save them for last.
Now you are ready to hook up any accessories you might want to run.
Parts List
30A Universal Relay, Dorman P/N 84601 - $7.29
ATC Fuse Block, Bussman P/N 15600620 - $8.59
ATC Inline Fuse Holder, Bussman P/N HHG - $2.39
10 Pack Waterproof 1/4” Ring Terminals for 14-16AWG, Dorman P/N 85210 - $7.39
Wire and Fuses – Approx. $20
Additional Parts not shown in my installation
10 Pack Waterproof 1/4” Female Blade Terminals for 18-22AWG, Dorman P/N 85254 - $8.19 – for connecting accessories to fuse block
10 Pack Waterproof 1/4” Female Blade Terminals for 14-16AWG - $8.19 (est.) – for use in place of relay plug
Assorted Waterproof ring terminals for attaching grounds to frame
Figure on about $50-55 if you don't have any of the pieces already.
First you will need to take off the two side black plastic pieces under the seat, and then the seat itself. I forgot to take pictures before hand, but if you once you remove the seat this is what you will find.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/Under_Seat.jpg
I took the two relays out of the brackets (just pull them upward) and tucked them into the right rear fairing to keep them out of the way.
Next it was time to find space for the components we will need. The relay fits nicely up in the area under the rear seat.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/P3151076.jpg
The relays we moved and the auxiliary fuse block will sit on the battery hold down.
You’ll notice I used Velcro to secure everything. I’m not fond of making irreversible changes to the bike. If I want to take this off in the future I will only have to remove the Velcro and de-solder a splice and re-solder the original wires back together.
This is the wiring diagram we will be following.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/Aux_FB_Wiring_Diag.jpg
I also had some relay connectors left from one of my car projects so I used them. They didn’t have the right gage wire so I removed the contacts and replaced them with leads that did. If you don’t have access to these you can use individual wires with crimp terminals. I recommend using 14AWG wire for everything but the tap into the horn circuit. For this you can use 20 or 22AWG.
Here you can see my connections to the relay connector. The Yellow/Red wire is power from battery + terminal, to the inline fuse, and then to the relay 30 terminal. The Yellow/Blue wire is from the relay 87 terminal to the positive lug on the fuse block. The Black/Red wire is ground from the relay 86 terminal to the battery – terminal. Finally the Green wire is the trigger wire from the horn switched + to the relay 85 terminal. When you are making your connections make sure that there are not any fuse in the any of the circuits you are working on (horn, and your inline fuse). This will prevent an accidental short to the frame.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/P3151077.jpg
The only part of this that is hard (not physically, just mentally because you are cutting into your bike) is splicing to the horn circuit. Using the service manual I found the wire we want is the Brown/White wire shown here. If you remove the fuse you can use a multimeter to check the wire directly across from our trigger wire (circuit is completed by the fuse so the terminal we are using won’t have any power with the fuse out. It should be 0V with the key off and 12V with the key on.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/P3151079.jpg
I chose to cut the wire and solder my splice back together. You can also use a crimp connector or a quick splice.
Now that all the connections are made we can hook everything up and test it. Once you reinstall the horn fuse and put a 10A fuse in your inline holder you should see 0V at your ring terminal for the fuse block when the key is of, and 12V when the key is on.
You can see everything hooked up here.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/P3151081.jpg
Once I checked everything I taped up my wiring and used Velcro to attach the fuse block and relays to the battery hold down.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh87/camaroz1985/Ninja/P3151082.jpg
I did move my wires around a little bit after the picture to make it look a little cleaner.
Make sure you use dielectric grease in your connections to protect them from corrosion and water. Also make sure you cover the + post on your fuse block. There is room under the seat for everything (yes I checked before I started :)), but the fuses toward the front are kind of tight. You might want to save them for last.
Now you are ready to hook up any accessories you might want to run.
Parts List
30A Universal Relay, Dorman P/N 84601 - $7.29
ATC Fuse Block, Bussman P/N 15600620 - $8.59
ATC Inline Fuse Holder, Bussman P/N HHG - $2.39
10 Pack Waterproof 1/4” Ring Terminals for 14-16AWG, Dorman P/N 85210 - $7.39
Wire and Fuses – Approx. $20
Additional Parts not shown in my installation
10 Pack Waterproof 1/4” Female Blade Terminals for 18-22AWG, Dorman P/N 85254 - $8.19 – for connecting accessories to fuse block
10 Pack Waterproof 1/4” Female Blade Terminals for 14-16AWG - $8.19 (est.) – for use in place of relay plug
Assorted Waterproof ring terminals for attaching grounds to frame
Figure on about $50-55 if you don't have any of the pieces already.