Got another 08 250 after selling my first 08 250 4 years ago. Bought this one used with 8k miles on it for a steal. Going to want to do some modifications over the winter to get it back to where I was moving with my first one, before kids ruined that dream...

Bike already has a Jardine RT5 slip on/possibly full, havent pulled fenders off yet.

Want to:
-remove airbox, add K&N pods
-swap out front sprocket for a 15T
-jet carbs

Need help with jetting. Anyone running something similar and can give me a starting point as far as jet size? In Ohio, don't do any extreme altitude riding. Any help appreciated.

~Thanks

110 mains probably. And screws 2.5 turns out. 2 shims under each needle. Honestly I would keep the airbox and remove the snorkel and call it good. Especially if you dont feel like messing with jetting alot. Granted you may need to rejet even if you only did that airbox mod, as the pipe will change things too

There are a lot of videos on YouTube that may help you on jetting the carbs.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208

Jetting database.

Check out the DIY section in the tech section for more info about tuning.

Thanks all.

I have a full exhaust and Uni Pods. I'm running DJ 108 mains, needle in the 3rd position two washers on top. The screws I don't know I lost track of the turns after a long day of messing around. The pods are very loud, you can hear alot of intake noise btw.

Yeah everything I've read said they're loud. I'm not concerned, this Jardine is pretty loud. I'm looking to give the bike a little boost to compensate me changing the sprockets to ride better for highway. I have a 30 min commute to work all highway, so that's 90% of all my riding.

I ordered Factory Pro Stage 3 kit, with K&N filters. So I'm pretty sure with that, I can achieve what I need.

So, pulled airbox, added Factory Pro stage 3 jet kit. I installed 112 mains, left stock 38 pilot jet in, set mixture screws to 2.5 out, and added 3 washers to needle at 3rd clip. Couple quick questions:

-I placed e-clip in 3rd position as instructed by Factory Pro. They recommended 3 washers also to start. I placed these washers on top of e-clip, closest to the blunt end of needle. Is that correct? I recall reading on Factory Pro document this prevents needle bounce?
-having a slight hesitation between idle and 4k rpm, at 4k it grabs and takes off rather well thru redline. Would this be an indicator of needing to go higher on needle position, or idle mix screws?

Thanks!

Put a few miles on bike with previous setup and wasn't happy with it. Pulled fairings and tank, pulled needless out and placed 2 washers under e-clip, left 3 on top. Actually put an e-clip on top of 3 washers to secure them as 2 washers were laying in the diaphragm area when I disassembled.

After a brief ride less than 5 miles, found much better than previous setup. Dead zone around 4k (1/4 OT?) went away, less or no popping on decel. I'll leave it here for now until next spring when I can get longer rides. Thanks for the help.

Glad it worked out for you:thumbup: Them darn carbs can be real finicky and annoying!

put stage 3 on my 2012, dynojet, yoshi slip on, K&n slip ons, got rid of air box, wow, a 250 that has balls. went exactly as dyno jet stage 3 said in directions, almost perfect, turned in air fuel 1/5 turn from that recommendation and it made a big diff, to me, no more whoof, big gas burp when shut off fast then open again, which occurred seldom, but did, now thats gone and i am glad I did all the upgrades. totally different little bike, not sure if I will go to 15 tooth front cuz no real long straights here in the islands, and I like the turns anyway