Well, I have 75 miles on my '09 and did my first oil change. I must say it was super easy. I ran the bike to heat up the oil good then let it drain for 30 min til nothing was dripping when upright and torqued the drain bolt back in. Dropped the filter next cleaned things up and installed a K&N filter and torqued it to specs. Next I pulled the 4 bolts for the oil screen and tried to loosen the cover but it wouldn't budge. I didn't have a new gasket if I buggered things up, so I re-installed the bolts. Is the oil screen cover hard to pry off? I have a brass/nylon head gun smithing hammer and I was going to give it a couple raps, but decided I would wait and ask and clean it on my 300 mile oil change. The oil looked clean, dark honey color and i couldn't see any specks of metal. The filter also lookd clean no debris in between the folds. Filled her up with 1650cc of Rotella T 15W-40. Ran the bike for a few minutes and checked the level upright and saw nothing in the window, so I ran up the street for 3 miles and back to heat up the oil. Waited 20 min for the oil to drain back down and it is now 3/4 between the low and high mark. Should I go ahead and add 100cc and see if it brings it up to full or leave it alone. I don't want to over fill. Service manual says 1.6 L with filter change or 1.7 l when dry. As long as I let it drain it should have been dry. Anything I missed or should do differently? Any thoughts are most appreciated.:thumbup:

as long as you can see the oil between the sight glass marks with the bike exactly vertical, you should be fine.

Good Job Ted - my initial change this weekend was at 152 miles and I could see some small shavings after I let oil settle out. Not enough to be able to filter and take a picture but there were things in the oil.

In checking the level I can tell that even a 1/4 difference in the size of the 2x4 you put under the kick stand can really change the level in the sight glass.

I'd say if you have replaced the filter and have more than 1.75 qts and less than 2.0 qts you are good to go.

why r u people changing oil so frequently ?

Personal preference! :D

Next I pulled the 4 bolts for the oil screen and tried to loosen the cover but it wouldn't budge. I didn't have a new gasket if I buggered things up, so I re-installed the bolts. Is the oil screen cover hard to pry off? I have a brass/nylon head gun smithing hammer and I was going to give it a couple raps, but decided I would wait and ask and clean it on my 300 mile oil change.

Isnt there 5 bolts..... 3 short & 2 long???

why r u people changing oil so frequently ?

This is what I was getting at in another thread and got hosed for it..

Lets not freak out so dearly about metal in the oil. It's normal (Shavings are not :D)

Well I'm done with this subject. Just intended save someone a few bucks by not freaking out about metal in their oil. Might aswell change your oil every 50 miles for the first 1000 miles for the best break in!! If you got the dough I guess it comes down to personal preference. Just hope people don't do such frequent oil changes after a switch to a synthetic!

This is what I was getting at in another thread and got hosed for it..

Lets not freak out so dearly about metal in the oil. It's normal (Shavings are not :D)

Well I'm done with this subject. Just intended save someone a few bucks by not freaking out about metal in their oil. Might as well change your oil every 50 miles for the first 1000 miles for the best break in!! If you got the dough I guess it comes down to personal preference. Just hope people don't do such frequent oil changes after a switch to a synthetic!

Joe you hit the nail on the head - "personal preference". My view is I only got one new engine with this Ninja and if it was put together correctly it's up to me to make it last as long as possible. It cost me $15.59 for the new NAPA filter and two quarts of Rotex oil. Even though there wasn't a lot of "metalic" material in the "old" oil there was some and that was good enough for me. I will most likely change again at 600 just before it goes in to have the valves checked and then go to synthetic at around 1,000.

Like you said, "personal preference".

I will most likely change again at 600 just before it goes in to have the valves checked and then go to synthetic at around 1,000.

Hi Don -

The valves are no longer checked at the 600 mile service on the newgens. First scheduled check is now at 7500 miles.

Hi Don -

The valves are no longer checked at the 600 mile service on the newgens. First scheduled check is now at 7500 miles.

Well hell - I'll have to read the OM and SM a little better I guess. I'm sure my local dealer would have told me that there was no reason to bring it in when I called though :rolleyes:

Thanks Alex - have a great day