For those of you who have used the lowering links from RT, do you know what the settings are for each hole? As in, how much they drop the bike at each hole?

I couldn't find this info online and am just wondering out of pure curiousity. There are 5 wholes - 3 on top, 2 on bottom almost like the olympic circles :D.

good question....Noche said 1 inch was the center hole on the top position. Beyond that I cannot find any explanation on the net. I'm sure she'll answer it when she comes around.

wait for noche to answer your questions. she has the RT set and IIRC she used the middle setting, whatever that means, in relation to the Olympic circles.

^ thanks you two. hopefully noche sees this post.

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Based on the diagram above (slanted diagonally) I tried the middle of the top like noche. Then I lowered it again to the right of the bottom row, which seemed to have made it much lower. Basically, I'm curious about how much of a difference each whole makes. :D

keep track and don't lower it too much. You can run into clearance problems with the back under fender liner thingy if you go too low.

plus, you should be trying to lower the front and rear the same amount to preserve the handling qualities they designed into the bike.

also, what is your shock preload set to? I assume you are quite light, so make sure it on the softest setting.

^ right. that's why i'm curious as to the settings. the mechanic pushed the bike off a sidewalk curb and it had no problems so that's a good sign. i've also lowered the front with the riser blocks which i measured at 1 inch so i don't want to go past 2. ideally, i'm hoping my lowering okay resulted in 1-1.5 inches lower in back.

last season the bf changed the preload to the softest setting and i didn't even notice.

last season the bf changed the preload to the softest setting and i didn't even notice.
you may not have noticed, but having it on the softest setting will allow the bike to settle the most once you are on it and reduce the seat height.

Mine was not RT but a refit of an x10 link. it was before RT came out. Nothing was out yet. Sorry :(

The links are actually counter intuitive, the first hole (closest to the other end) is 1", then they should be 1/2" more as you move outward, so the farthest hole lowers the bike the most.

Lindsay, when I did it, we used geometry to try and figure it out. We put a piece of graph paper up to it to trace the position of the originl links, and then used that to find the position it would need to be in to be 1" lower.
To the best of my knowledge, it should be something like this:
(stock)(1")(2")
(.5")(1.5")

Sorry I've been AWOL for a while - real life has gotten in the way - let me know if you have any other questions!

Lindsay, when I did it, we used geometry to try and figure it out. We put a piece of graph paper up to it to trace the position of the originl links, and then used that to find the position it would need to be in to be 1" lower.
To the best of my knowledge, it should be something like this:
(stock)(1")(2")
(.5")(1.5")

Sorry I've been AWOL for a while - real life has gotten in the way - let me know if you have any other questions!

Thanks for the specs. I just bought the SSR lowering links that look just like the Roaring Toyz kit.

Question, would it make a difference if the 3 holes where on bottom and 2 holes on top? I'm waiting for SSR to get back to me on this as they have their photos with the links with 3 on the bottom.

Other then setting changes I think the part is still structurally sound top or bottom right?

Other then setting changes I think the part is still structurally sound top or bottom right?

You are correct. The important part is the distance between the holes. It is a good idea to keep an eye on clearances to be sure that the new links aren't rubbing on anything. If I remember right, that's not an issue.