http://i.imgur.com/RWIb8CI.jpg


what should i do?!?!

Duct tape.

i'm not sure. ducttape leaves residue

I see you have a hammer, looks like you are good to go what's the problem?

Prozac

semen

Bubble gum and bailing wire, solved!

.............what should i do?!?!

You need to find an engine and a tank !!!

......... what is the plunger for?

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

zip ties :thumbup:

you really messed it up, should look like this:
http://www.the-blueprints.com/modules/gallery/originals/00748-01436.jpg

You need to find an engine and a tank !!!

......... what is the plunger for?

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

engine is in the mail, and the gas tank is just outside the photo :)

this bike will be my new dedicated race bike (other 250 served dual purpose, but no more)

todo:

straighten the frame (pull jig being built tonight, we'll see if it gets done in one night though... straightening hopefully tomorrow. the neck is twisted 2.5d clockwise and the bottom of the neck in about 1cm. once it's back in true form i will resurface the backbone (currently chipped paint from the bend causing some minor surface rust) and weld in ninja-300-style plate webbing for extra support on the backbone. once its all done its getting painted deep red with a bunch of clear on top. i'll probably swap to allballs tapered bearings just to keep up with the johnsons (current bearings are nearly shot after the last crash it seems) also theres really minor damage to the front wheel i will need to repair also.

gsxr rear shock coming in soon, which will need to be resprung and serviced

the front end is stock right now, 0.75 springs will go on with some diy preload adjusters and new oil. nothing fancy.

i have a yoshi full SS exhaust that has a crack in it that needs to be welded up, after its repaired it'll go on with cleaned out carbs. the engine in the mail is stock with only a few hundred miles but when it gets here it will get a full service along with a smaller head gasket.

the gas tank and race glass need to be resurfaced and painted. with the red frame i will go with a white body, red underbelly, with a grizzly bear on each side, rebel star above it. basically a californian flag. yellow (amateur) "256" plates front and back painted in.

levers
throttle housing
clipons
rearsets
vesrah pads
might need a new front disk
chain/sprockets
tires

...............the neck is twisted 2.5d clockwise and the bottom of the neck in about 1cm...................with the red frame i will go with a white body, red underbelly, with a grizzly bear on each side, rebel star above it. basically a californian flag..................

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

How did you measure the frame twist?
Did you measure the caster angle of the neck as well?

http://www.elcivics.com/state-lessons/images/california-flag-bear.jpg

i used string to measure it all up and compare to a true frame then did the math to get degrees, this is a great video on how to do everything:

KApcu4w0xJE

for the twist you need to level the engine mounts, then have a square that can reach the top, or a true jig.

if the frame is in a true square you can use string from top to bottom over the neck or inside the neck and measure the distances between the walls and the string at the top and bottom.

[IMG]
what should i do?!?!

Stop molesting it! :mad:

Stop molesting it! :mad:

7HrnWC8zBcE

Your rear wheel is backwards, try flipping it around and see if that helps

............this is a great video on how to do everything..............

Indeed !!!

Thanks, Alex :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

this little frame is tough. after bending the box jig from the jack on the frame and only moving the head about 1mm, and then bending two steel tubes trying to bend it by hand, i've decided to cut the welds on the back bone and have my friend (expert welder) reweld it all straight with webbing support. i may have to replace the back bone all together. we'll see. its a pain in the ass.

this little frame is tough. after bending the box jig from the jack on the frame and only moving the head about 1mm, and then bending two steel tubes trying to bend it by hand, i've decided to cut the welds on the back bone and have my friend (expert welder) reweld it all straight with webbing support. i may have to replace the back bone all together. we'll see. its a pain in the ass.

Did you try some serious heat on the frame before applying force?
Pipes are very weak for that task, they bend easily.
If you anchor the steering head close to the ground, you could use the frame itself as a lever.

Just a couple of ideas, trying to avoid a cut and re-welding of those tubes of thin wall and maybe some difficult to weld alloy.

R6's come pre assembled..

You are right Hernan. I'll try with heat today. I blame the alcohol for yesterday

You are right Hernan. I'll try with heat today. I blame the alcohol for yesterday

I believe you did not have enough :D

more alcohol, lots of heat, a sawsall, and plenty of swearing, and the tube is now straight with the swingarm. frame needs welding around 4 spots and im going to add gusseting

Looks like your on the right track... Don't drink an drive :eek:

before
http://i.imgur.com/jQewzsN.jpg

after cuts and bends
http://i.imgur.com/76xRuFi.jpg

need to remeasure and adjust i think before welding. the top T is going to get remade

before
http://i.imgur.com/jQewzsN.jpg

after cuts and bends
http://i.imgur.com/76xRuFi.jpg

need to remeasure and adjust i think before welding. the top T is going to get remade

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

You had good 6~7 degree of twist there !!!

I wonder what kind of forces that frame felt in order to get that deformation.

Have you verified that both tracks for the head bearings are parallel respect to each other (if the head tube itself was bent)?

the tube itself is true though the races are going to get replaced anyway. theres a small ding on the top (my fault) that i'll need to tap back into shape before installing the new race. still not sure whether to completely replace the back bone or to try to rebend and lay down W's and just rejoin it. decisions decisions

we welded the frame last night.

http://i.imgur.com/iKRubQI.jpg

some of the smaller inner tube is pretty thin walled and melts very easily. extra steel was added under the welds. tonight i'll be adding in a little bit of gusseting before i scrub it and paint it red with lots and lots of gloss

too bad you dont live closer. Id trade you some work for work getting that frame and everything powder coated.

Garage seems like a strange place for a plunger..

you say plunger, i say dent puller.

Ooooh yea duh :banghead:

so all the welding is done. i added 1/8" plate webbing and a top brace around the aft of the backbone where it T's out to the side beams. i tried jumping on it and it seems good enough for government. i guess i'm colorblind or stupid, but the frame is now mostly yellow. i didn't notice until it was half way done and my brother mentioned it wasn't red. i was thinking about the welds and sealing them properly and didn't even think about color until i was through a can of yellow. so maybe i'll do the whole thing yellow...

new todo:

- paint frame red
- install new head bearings
- fix ding in front wheel. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GC9dt3yiBVY&list=PLC723AFF4DC3C51EC)
- gsxr rear shock - respring, service, install
- need rear swingarm adjusters and an axle
- front end springs and oil
- install the new engine
- repair yoshi exhaust
- redo controls
- need sprockets, have chain.
- needs new tires
- needs paint
- front brake need love

............
- fix ding in front wheel. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GC9dt3yiBVY&list=PLC723AFF4DC3C51EC)
..........

Amazing rim repair by Papo Restrepo :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Would you mind posting pictures of the webbing and a top bracing?

sure i'll take some photos tonight. phone was dead when i finished yesterday so i didn't take any. unfortunately you can't really see the webbing underneath the top bracket that i made but you'll be able to see the enclosed topside. i'm not the best welder and since its structural and not external i decided not to sand/grind the welds afterward. so they're a bit ugly but they do what they need to do

..........i'm not the best welder and since its structural and not external i decided not to sand/grind the welds afterward. so they're a bit ugly but they do what they need to do

Hey, we are not judging here but admiring and learning from your work and ingenuity. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Welds don't need to be pretty to be strong, I was always against grinding welds.

https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1382273_361125020699975_519855274_n.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sSlVNbE.jpg

looking good!

i took off the tire from the front rim last night and was trying to heat it and bend it but i think i'm going to need better suited tools than what i was using. also i forgot to take out the valve stem and it started to burn from the heat. oops.

.........jpg

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

http://i.imgur.com/rLe319el.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/rLe319e.jpg)

Are you going to draw on the tank?

draw?

http://i.imgur.com/wrEXnX8.jpg

rear suspension thanks to cuong-nutz, stock dogbone lengths but i had to make one curve around the shock. i will be making shorter bones in a little while so these are just temporary

............i will be making shorter bones in a little while............

Why?

Looking good !!!

the gsxr shock is about an inch shorter than the 250 shock, so the rear is sitting about an inch and a half lower than it should be stock. but i'll be moving it to about +.5" in the rear, so the dog bones will be a total of about 1.0" shorter in the end. with the change to the frame/neck, and with the forks moved up 0.5" in the triples, it should run about 23.5d rake with a slightly shorter than stock trail, and a slightly decreased wheelbase compared to stock. i will probably also run with the swingarm axle adjusters maxed to the back to try to get back to stock wheelbase. it doesn't need any shorter wheelbase than stock. but the front definitely feels better past 24d.

http://i.imgur.com/9Azmkb3.jpg

draw?

http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs71/i/2012/127/2/f/motorcycle_tank_sharpie_art__right_side__by_leerichy-d4yvbed.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/oAhiEBk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GggmB3X.jpg

the water system is all connected, the electrical is all in place, and mostly connected minus the battery and lights and controls and the connection between the stator and the harness (different connector type), the carbs and throttle cables are on, along with the airbox (after some slight modification to make taking it out and putting it back in easier). i'm missing one of the rear wheel spacers (right) so i can't put the rear wheel on yet. still working on straightening the front wheel but i'm thinking i might just take it to someone. i also put back on some of the rubber like the gas tank mounts, the rear chain guide. the new tapered stem bearings are supposed to show up today so i can actually mount up the front end for real tonight. the clutch cover (maybe the clutch plates too) will also get swapped over from the parts motor tonight. fluids and all will go in as well. maybe we'll get her started today. i have a yoshi s/s exhaust that goes with the carbs i put on her. but i need to weld a crack on it.

the water system is all connected,............but i need to weld a crack on it.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

so i put in the tapered bearings from all-balls. surprised by the quality. the front end is very stable now. i have to concede, the tapered bearings are a bit tighter than oem. much better than the dented ball bearings that was in it before. i swapped over the clutch cover and did some more electrical routing/setup.

i tried straightening the wheel with a car jack and the mapp gas. with the way this wheel is, its hard to fit the jack in like a normal car wheel. managed to move it about half the distance it needs to go but the jack wont be able to get in the right position from inside the wheel to finish the bend. so i've found out about this kind of fork-wrench thing that grabs onto the lip and has a big pry bar on it, so you lock the wheel down and then just pry the bend back. we'll see if i can rig something like this up. the other direction i'm thinking is to measure the ID of the lip on the wheel and cut out a half-moon from a block of wood in that shape, then lock the wheel down and use a locked down press on the half-moon to push on the inside of the lip, then hit it with the torch while pushing it out.

https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1454561_368194029993074_529955300_n.jpg

Did alex shank just admit that someone else was right?? I was impressed with those bearings' quality as well.

not that someone else was right. that i was wrong.

i will say the bottom race on the bottom of the triple stem is a bitch and a half to get off even with the mapp gas. i wound up cutting that one off with the 3 inch grinder.

I used a dremel with a grind wheel, slotted it as deep as I could without grinding the triple or stem, then cracked the remaining little bit of metal by driving a screwdriver in and forcing it open. Then I flipped the triple over and the whole race just fell off without any effort. :)

Took 5 minutes. I didn't even attempt to tap it off; that looked too hard.

i stuck it in the vice locked onto the race then hammered on the top of the stem but it wouldn't take it all the way off before i ripped my vice off the table. now i need to remound the vice. anyway after that i just cut it the rest of the way off

looking good alex.

i finished all the wiring. jesus what a pain in the ass.

put a small battery on (it's so cute!)
http://i.imgur.com/0wF3G4J.png

it has powerrrrr!
http://i.imgur.com/FMo9AEh.jpg

i put fluids in and then i tried turning it over and forgot to take a video... it lives!

waiting on a new wheel, a wheel spacer, air filter, registration, i need to paint the body work... oh yeah i need to make a new peg and linkage for the shifter... i think that's about all before she's sea-worthy

i finished all the wiring.........i put fluids in and then i tried turning it over and forgot to take a video... it lives!


:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

got some parts in. thanks to dan the parts ninja. wheels on with a newish pair of rosso 2s

still need to put the chain on, do an oil change, new air filter, redo the rear brake (fluid, put pads back on), it needs blinkers, i need to paint the bodywork all white and red like i planned and cut a hole in the front for the headlight (which is 3 cree leds in an enclosure). it needs some mirrors too... i also need to make a new foot peg on one side, and i need to make a rod to go between the two heim joints (as my brothers mech teacher says 'himen joints') in the shift linkage. i need to put the lock back on the rear seat to keep it held down... right now it's just sitting on top

here she is.
http://i.imgur.com/UgSOklE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/s77OrKK.jpg

got some parts in. thanks to dan the parts ninja..................

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Those two big hammers laying around worry me.

.......well, at least the plunger is gone now. :)

the rubber mallet is useful for everything from putting axles in and tapping down triples to silencing doubters.

the big hammer is for making new things. i actually had to make lots of little parts for the bike. grinder, hammer and vice are good for making metal parts

I don't see any beer cans...?

the drinking is for after the tools are put down.


otherwise you wind up dropping things in the engine. and then rebuilding an entire engine. only to slip and screw up a bolt in the engine that takes you 3 weeks to replace. been there. i need as much mind power as i can to not screw things up.

True...

Put reg on it but it needs to pass inspection.
It has a rear seat lock, brake light, horn, front accessories controls, front light mounted in body work, did the rear brake, painted the main fairing red, same as the frame. Ran all the vacuum tubes and gas lines and started it with new 91 with injector cleaner in it. It's got rear pegs now. I put a new chain on and the wheel turned for the first time under the bikes power. I broke the old bent aluminum shift linkage trying to straighten it so I made a new one by welding the two nuts from the old rod onto the ends of a half inch steel tube I cut to the same size. The exhaust has a crack in it. I started the weld but it's not done yet. I'm trying my best to be pretty with it. But I'm not very good. Once I finish the exhaust and paint the underbelly and put the bodywork on, oh and blinkers, it will be "done" and I'll take it for inspection. Then I can get a license plate for it

............Once I finish the exhaust and paint the underbelly and put the bodywork on, oh and blinkers, it will be "done" and I'll take it for inspection. Then I can get a license plate for it

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Amazing progress !!!

http://i.imgur.com/bKxfCnuh.jpg

http://imgur.com/gDGMA2a.jpg
http://imgur.com/57fcccI.jpg
http://imgur.com/sK6sBGz.jpg
http://imgur.com/izjgY4t.jpg
http://imgur.com/x8JomFR.jpg
http://imgur.com/ohDdmY9.jpg
http://imgur.com/6RdeyWd.jpg
http://imgur.com/0YEfhmN.jpg

It rides pretty well

:D what happened to the green ? :/

dysentary.

There still isn't any duct tape in evidence.

I call fail.

(Tip: ALWAYS safety wire your duct tape so you'll pass tech.)

Single LED for headlight?

3 cree led's in a heat sync mount with a wide angle lens. kevin made it.

i thought they looked adorable together.

http://i.imgur.com/f8Ndedo.jpg

the drinking is for after the tools are put down.


otherwise you wind up dropping things in the engine. and then rebuilding an entire engine. only to slip and screw up a bolt in the engine that takes you 3 weeks to replace. been there. i need as much mind power as i can to not screw things up.

All from 2,400 miles away from home! Yeah, adventures sometimes stem from mistakes. Like trying to change the oil and ending up with a bolt in an engine and a hole burned into a pair of motorcycle pants. :thumbup:

:angel: teehee

Captains Log, star-date 201312160911.

shes got a plate now so i fixed up the leaky cooling system, threw a different front rotor on and rode her home last night. it was the first long distance ride shes had so a couple unexpected things came up.

firstly i forgot to plug up all the holes in the gas tank for the old charcoal evap system. so i spilled some gas and screwed up a few spots of paint unfortunately.
also the clutch cover gasket i made didn't hold up well enough and its leaking some oil. not enough to be an issue for the bike but enough to be an issue for my floor so a new clutch cover gasket (a real one this time) is going on the list.

it wasn't the best ride i have to say. the rear shock isn't setup very well (too stiff, also damping too high need to turn that down, and the height is too low- needs shorter dog bones by about half an inch) and the front springs are a bit too soft, it needs preload adjusters and a bit thicker oil in front.

also i need to adjust the shift linkage a bit as its kinda hard to shift at the moment.

it's got the yoshi pipe with tuned carbs but unfortunately the air filter is still dirty and needs to be replaced with a kn hiflo (what the carbs were tuned for) so it's down on torque for now but seems alright. engine felt good, sounded pretty good. the power system seemed to be charging well, though i need to look into why my tach light was flickering. i think just the connection to it on the instrument panel is the issue.

the frame seems to be ok. i don't think i got it exactly right, i set the rear tire to stock alignment with the swingarm but its not quite right to the front wheel so i think the front end is still slightly off because it likes to track off center. it could just be the trail position with the incorrect rear height combination with the changed front end. but either way i think i have it close enough that i will be able to get a reasonably decent alignment with the rear and adjust for any vertical angle issues with the triples and bones. i need to go double check all the welds again but i took it over some reasonably rough roads and it seemed alright. hopefully all the welds are still in good shape. it took turns fine though the rear tire needs to be replaced (old 003rs take-off past its prime) although turning to the left would spill gas out onto the tire which would give random little slides.... probably great for the rubber having gas on it. thank my lucky stars i didn't randomly catch on fire. that would have been an experience.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: