We've had pictures of the levers online, but no DIY that I could find, so I thought I'd post one up for everyone. This is for the installation of the long levers. I debated about getting the shorties, but after hearing how short they really were, I decided to go with these.

First part is to gather the tools that you'll need.
You need both an 8 mm socket for the nut on the bottom of the pivot bolt for the clutch lever, and a 10 mm socket for the top of the pivot bolt on both levers, and for the lock nut on the bottom side of the brake lever. You will also need some silicone grease, a torque wrench, and of course the levers!

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_V-U-OR3ze94/Sc4XPTPH-1I/AAAAAAAAAcM/dZ7MnI0u8gQ/s400/IMG_0605.JPG

I started with the brake side. First remove the lock nut from the bottom and then loosen and remove the pivot bolt. The lever will slide right out and you can slip the new lever in its place. You will then slip in the pivot bolt and nut and tighten it to 52 inch-pounds of torque.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_V-U-OR3ze94/Sc4XOaPN68I/AAAAAAAAAcE/p8aht-yl8gE/s400/IMG_0596.JPG
That's what it looks like when it's put together , just imagine that it's actually in the holder for the full effect ;)

The clutch side is a little more complicated with the clutch cable installed. First remove the nut from the bottom of the pivot bolt using the 8 mm socket. Then you should loosen the knurled locknut (larger clutch nut) by turning it towards the rear cowling. You want to screw in the adjuster towards the lever to give it as much play as possible. Once it is all the way in, align the slots in the knurled locknut and the adjuster nut with the slot in the backside of the lever. I found that it was easier to lift the lever off and flip it over, then do this.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_V-U-OR3ze94/Sc4XSyz0WyI/AAAAAAAAAck/i-nN9w8II5Y/s400/IMG_0627.JPG

Slide the end of the cable into the opening on the pazzo lever, and then slide the lever into place and replace the pivot bolt. This pivot nut does not have a torque spec.

Here is a comparison on the clutch side so you can see the difference in stock and the #6 position on the pazzos. I didn't think to do a comparison on the brake side, so there's just the after pic.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_V-U-OR3ze94/Sc4XQQHEyEI/AAAAAAAAAcU/jALk4l8d5hs/s400/IMG_0617.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_V-U-OR3ze94/Sc4XUCaEClI/AAAAAAAAAcs/1OxdzxZseUE/s400/IMG_0634.JPG

And the brake side:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_V-U-OR3ze94/Sc4XLBA0tfI/AAAAAAAAAbs/Pb4YXBpZxtY/s400/IMG_0609.JPG

There are more pics available here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/nochecaliente80/Ninja?authkey=Gv1sRgCNHJ6u2v5OXkxAE&feat=directlink

And lastly, here are some pics of the levers installed :)

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_V-U-OR3ze94/Sc4XWn-GoCI/AAAAAAAAAc8/ok5UiPlAQ3I/s400/IMG_0638.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_V-U-OR3ze94/Sc4XYJgmaPI/AAAAAAAAAdE/1L3ppWksi3o/s400/IMG_0639.JPG
(I'm not sure why the top of my windscreen looks blue - it's not, really!)

Since you'll have the end of the clutch cable off anyway, this is the perfect time to clean and lube the clutch cable!
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10016

cool DIY... :cool:

so, how do they feel in comparison to the stock levers?

Great DIY! :happy70: Added to the DIY index thread...

Yes, how do they feel??

Thanks for the write up!! I am looking to get the shorties but saw some today on a 1400 and yikes they are short.

They are amazing from what I can tell so far - I just put them on Friday night and it's been raining here, so I haven't had a chance to take her out yet - I will update when I get to ride more- but as you can hopefully tell fro the pics, it's a world of difference in terms of how much of my hand I can get around the lever - it doesn't seem quite as painful or difficult for me to securely grab on- especially on the clutch side - 2 thumbs up!

it was painful for you to grab the stock lever? :confused:

after I rode I would have the ligaments in my thumb flaring up - I have issues with them called gamekeepers thumb - basically it was straining the ligaments in my thumb when I was reaching out that far and trying to keep a hold on the handlebar as well
The first time I rode, I couldn't write the next day because of it... this seems to be a very large improvement so far :)

Nice DIY :)

(I'm not sure why the top of my windscreen looks blue - it's not, really!)

Your levers look blue too :boink:

Nice DIY Kim - not sure I'll ever change mine but if I do and now know how to do it.

Thanks

Damn it! another mod I want to do. lol very nice looking levers and thanks for the DIY. question, is #6 the lowest setting on these or can they go lower?

Damn it! another mod I want to do. lol very nice looking levers and thanks for the DIY. question, is #6 the lowest setting on these or can they go lower?

#6 is the widest position and farthest away from the grip. #1 is the lowest and very close to the grip.

I put on a set and like them a lot, but would not recommend going below #3 for the brake lever. If you shorten the throw too much, you don't have enough distance to fully engage the brake because you will squeeze the lever into the grip before the brake is fully engaged as in a full on emergency stop. I also found myself squashing my fingers at #2 because I brake with two fingers rather than all of them. Just a warning that closer is not necessarily better.

I have had Pazzo's on my last 3 motorcycles. Pazzo Shorty's. I LOVE them and will continue to put them on every bike I own. CRG makes a nice lever too. The levers feel great, look great and everyone notices them when they get up close to the bike. Its a touch of class with some functionality in it. Great mod!

I just got these installed! Great DIY! Thank you! :thumbup:

I'm considering the Cycle Control ones which are due out in a couple of weeks - they look pretty similar... (Anyone have experince of their levers on other bikes??)

After riding to work and back (lots of slow speed stuff in traffic) with the stock clutch I get sore thunb ligaments too... I've got quite small hands and it really looks as though these will help!

Nice DIY Kim:)

Thanks guys- glad it can help :)

#6 is the widest position and farthest away from the grip. #1 is the lowest and very close to the grip.

I put on a set and like them a lot, but would not recommend going below #3 for the brake lever. If you shorten the throw too much, you don't have enough distance to fully engage the brake because you will squeeze the lever into the grip before the brake is fully engaged as in a full on emergency stop. I also found myself squashing my fingers at #2 because I brake with two fingers rather than all of them. Just a warning that closer is not necessarily better.

This is especially true if you're using stock rubber brake lines. #3 is about as close to the grip as you can safely go and still be able to apply full brake, but with the stock rubber lines, it's marginal. I found that #3 was comfortable, but #4 gave me the most confidence.

A change to Galfer braided lines, with no flex, and #3 is not only comfortable, but offers more brake force than #4 and rubber lines. :thumbup:

For the clutch, on my bike, #3 is the most comfortable to me. I found that position 1 and 2 for the clutch was not enough travel to ensure that the clutch was fully disengaged.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/tkeith9512/S6300869.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/tkeith9512/S6300868.jpg

This is especially true if you're using stock rubber brake lines. #3 is about as close to the grip as you can safely go and still be able to apply full brake, but with the stock rubber lines, it's marginal. I found that #3 was comfortable, but #4 gave me the most confidence.

A change to Galfer braided lines, with no flex, and #3 is not only comfortable, but offers more brake force than #4 and rubber lines. :thumbup:

For the clutch, on my bike, #3 is the most comfortable to me. I found that position 1 and 2 for the clutch was not enough travel to ensure that the clutch was fully disengaged.

I can dial mine all the way in and don't have any trouble with them not being fully engaged - I wonder what the difference is?

I can dial mine all the way in and don't have any trouble with them not being fully engaged - I wonder what the difference is?

The primary difference, I guess, is that I have Progrip gel replacement grips, which are about 1/16 inch thicker than the stock ones, so that contributes to feel somewhat. I never tried the Pazzos with stock grips, since I had already changed them out before they arrived.

In any case, even then with the clutch, using #1 position the clutch is still grabbing just a little bit with the lever against the grip. #3 just feels, to me, like I'm sure the clutch is fully disengaged.

As for the brake, for me, anything lower than #3 and it hits the grip before it feels like 100% brake, and in traffic like I have, I like a little more confidence than 'lever at the grip' for my own peace of mind. :thumbup: #2 and 100% is at the grip with nothing extra, and #1 just never felt like the same authority on the brakes as #2 or above.

Several other guys in my area have Pazzos on their 250s, too. It must be a guy thing. We all seem to have settled on #3. :D:D

Anyone know where's the cheapest place to get the Pazzo? :D

Anyone know where's the cheapest place to get the Pazzo? :D

Click here for where I got mine (http://www.motoworldonline.com/Pazzo-Levers-Full-Kit-40Brake-and-Clutch41--Kawasaki-Ninja-250-402008-200941_p_4165.html) I think Pazzo has a MAP (Minimum Advertised Price), and that seems to be universally $179 for any combination you want.

The primary difference, I guess, is that I have Progrip gel replacement grips, which are about 1/16 inch thicker than the stock ones, so that contributes to feel somewhat. I never tried the Pazzos with stock grips, since I had already changed them out before they arrived.

In any case, even then with the clutch, using #1 position the clutch is still grabbing just a little bit with the lever against the grip. #3 just feels, to me, like I'm sure the clutch is fully disengaged.

As for the brake, for me, anything lower than #3 and it hits the grip before it feels like 100% brake, and in traffic like I have, I like a little more confidence than 'lever at the grip' for my own peace of mind. :thumbup: #2 and 100% is at the grip with nothing extra, and #1 just never felt like the same authority on the brakes as #2 or above.

Several other guys in my area have Pazzos on their 250s, too. It must be a guy thing. We all seem to have settled on #3. :D:D

With the brake especially, I can pull the lever as far back as it will go, and it still doesn't touch the grip - maybe because mine likely has less miles on her?

^ We have the same pro-grips. Setting #1 on the brake doesnt hit the grip, doesnt even come close. We run it on #2, it will just hit our small fingers in there if we pull real hard.

The clutch we run on #2 also. Althou we had to file the tip of the clutch switch, so it would start in gear with it on setting #1 or 2 :)

With the brake especially, I can pull the lever as far back as it will go, and it still doesn't touch the grip - maybe because mine likely has less miles on her?

OK, I went back and actually LOOKED at it and you're right. Even on #1 it doesn't touch the grips. It FEELS like it touches the grips with my hands, but looking at it, it does not touch. I guess that's what I get for having long, thin fingers and palms!

just have to come on here and say that I !@#$kin LOVE these!!! i got the green shorties and they are perfect! i can grab the clutch and breaks with full hands even with the shorts...lol.

i have both clutch and break on setting 1. on clutch i thought 1 would be too tight so i was using 2, then i realize it was just a matter of getting used to it. i can now actually signal right when the clutch is engaged. still can't do a left but oh well! better than nothing.

Installed my Pazzo levers this evening and they feel so good! So far position five is just right.

Had something weird happening when installing the clutch lever I thought I'd post here if anyone has any ideas... I lubed the clutch cable and put the lever in the perch and re-installed the pivot bolt. When I pulled the clutch lever for the first time I heard a pop from the other side of the bike and when I looked, the end of the clutch cable had come off of the arm that it anchors to.

It seemed like I didn't have any cable slack at all, so having already backed out the adjuster at the lever end, I backed out the adjuster at the other end to get the cable back into the arm, reset the adjusters at both ends and then re-tensioned the clutch cable successfully.

The three weird things:

1. The clutch cable popping out, where did the slack go?
2. When I was manipulating the arm it was pretty easy to slide it almost all the way out of the clutch case, is that normal or did I break something inside?
3. Is it normal for the cable to pop out at the engine-end like this if there isn't enough slack?

Again, after a ride everything feels and works fine and I triple-checked everywhere to make sure I didn't miss anything, gonna bring this up with the dealer when I go in for the 1000km service.

I'm considering the Cycle Control ones which are due out in a couple of weeks - they look pretty similar... (Anyone have experince of their levers on other bikes??)



I just installed the Cycle Control Shorty's. Awesome! Although I can't compare them to Pazzos funcionallity, I like the look a little better + they are on sale till the end of the month at the CC website.

Only difference in installation I found was that you have to remove the electrical housing on the to get the CC clutch lever to fit. Getting that thing back together with the choke cable can be a bitch.

Only difference in installation I found was that you have to remove the electrical housing on the to get the CC clutch lever to fit. Getting that thing back together with the choke cable can be a bitch.

Why did you have to do that?

Why did you have to do that?

I am curious too. I had to loosen the clutch lever perch and slide it on the bar a little to get enough clearance for the lever install and tools but the housing?

Why did you have to do that?

I thought it would be easier than moving the lever mount but when I loosened the two screws the thing blew up on me! Lots of little parts to align.:(

You will then slip in the pivot bolt and nut and tighten it to 52 inch-pounds of torque.

Make sure you're applying pressure to the nut and not the bolt (which is only rated to 9 in/lb). Have your torque wrench on the bolt as you tighten and it'll break well before 52 in/lb... Doh!

Got any pictures of the installed Cycle Control levers?

i looooove these levers....i originally ordered the long ones too because i cover the clutch while riding and i am used to resting all 4 fingers on the clutch lever...when i got them in i changed my mind and sent them back for the shorties...sooooo glad i did...i love being able to use 1 finger...especially on the break....thanks for the diy!!!

I just got some Cycle Control levers for my pregen, and it's very interesting... They look exactly like the pazzos, except they have 7 adjustment options instead of 6.... Wonder why? :confused: Oh, and just in case someone was wondering, I bought the Ninja 500 levers and a new clutch perch. They work great, but they're also A LOT closer to the bar than the new gen ones. Like closest is about an inch away! Completely pointless if you want to fit your hand through, but I generally ride covering the clutch anyway, so it doesn't make much difference on that side. It still disengages all the way, so what does it matter right? :D

Question: Are you guys getting the Pazzo/Cycle Control levers because you have small hands and they're more comfortable or for aesthetics? Or maybe a combination of the two? I ask b/c I love they way they look and am considering purchasing a set. I was just curious as to everyon'e reasoning behind their purchase. I am a slow purchaser - meaning I mull things over for a while before I make a decision. I JUST bought the no-cut brake modulator from Randall and installed it this weekend. (shame, I know) (LOVE it by the way).

Question: Are you guys getting the Pazzo/Cycle Control levers because you have small hands and they're more comfortable or for aesthetics?

For me, it's because of small hands. My stock clutch lever would engage just far enough out that it was right at the flex point of my second knuckle, and it was very difficult for me to use the clutch with repeatable effort - sometimes i'd be smooth but it would very often jerk as my knuckles straightened out.

The shorty Cycle Control lever fixed that problem for me, so now I get through the friction zone with the force on the strong parts of my fingers, rather than trying to control the lever with just my fingertips. I also mounted the lever about 1/4" closer to the fork, so I can comfortably use only my index and middle fingers on the clutch and keep my ring and pinky on the bar.

Hmmm.....thanks Steve. I'll have to take note of how my levers are working for me. I am tall so I don't have small hands. If nothing else though, I would like the Pazzos for the color match though.

Look good, Feel good, and are great for peeps with small hands.

Deb, for me it's because my hands are tiny and it was a long reach that was causing ligament strain that was painful - now I don't have any problems with it :)

man, i wish i had a garage right now. Then I'd be able to do a lot of the mods i want.

Not sure if you mentioned this or not but how much did you pay for those? I'm in the market for some levers.

man, i wish i had a garage right now. Then I'd be able to do a lot of the mods i want.

No garage needed for the pazzo install ;)

Not sure if you mentioned this or not but how much did you pay for those? I'm in the market for some levers.

Motomummy probably has the best deal:
http://www.motomummy.com/store/home.php?cat=357

Bought all my levers(except one) from corey. Still makes me smile to see my yellow bike on that page.... :)

Am I reading this right? One size fits all?

Are you reading what right?

Felt I should add a warning to this thread. I just installed my Pazzo shortys and broke the pin of the Starter Lockout Switch. It's located under a tab on the clutch lever base. It is very small and clearly more delicate than I thought. I wasn't being careful enough I guess... Anybody know how much this part goes for? Any thoughts?

Anybody know how much this part goes for? Any thoughts?

Bummer!

They sell for 20 bucks.

Thanks. Hopefully I'll get around to replacing that soon. I'm in no hurry though as it's not a critical part. Having too much fun playing with the setting on the new levers!

Just picked up a set of these for my fiancé for Christmas. I was up in the air about shorties vs. regulars and ended up going with the regulars. Hope she'll like them.

Just picked up a set of these for my fiancé for Christmas. I was up in the air about shorties vs. regulars and ended up going with the regulars. Hope she'll like them.

Nice stocking stuffer :thumbup:

Thanks. Hopefully I'll get around to replacing that soon. I'm in no hurry though as it's not a critical part. Having too much fun playing with the setting on the new levers!

It's a good thing you mentioned this because I wouldn't have remembered about this piece. Does anyone know what it's function is for and is it really necessary to drive the bike? I heard a snapping sound while installing the levers and could not for the life of me figure it out until I came upon this note. Sure enough when I checked under there, I saw that the little plastic rod that was sticking out was broken off.

hey, what kind of torque wrench did you use??? is it completely necessary? I do not own one, and dont want to drop 80 bucks on a brand new one considering i just paid for these levers :D

any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks,

for this, I wouldn't think so. The pivot bot already threads into the clutch perch and the nut on the end acts as a lock nut to the pivot bolt once it's assembled. Add the fact that the nut is a locking type nut, already, I highly doubt the pivot pin will back out. What I do suggest is that after the pivot bolt is installed (just snug it down) install the lock nut and tighten the nut so it just snugs the clutch perch and then back that nut off just a smidgen (perhaps 1/16 of a turn).

the clutch lever should be nice and free feeling as it pivots once you're done. Don't forget to grease the pivot bolt w/ some grease when you assemble it, along w/ some grease on the end of the clutch cable so the cable barrel pivots freely in the clutch lever.

thank you very much,

Heading outside to put em' on! cant wait!

not sure how tight 52 inch-lbs is, so I just tightened it firm, will this do?

(for the brake lever)

52in/lbs~ 4ft/lbs.... like I said, just snug. The caution is that you don't want to over tighten it and deform the clutch perch by squeezing it together. deforming it could cause the lever to bind in the perch.

Then you should loosen the knurled locknut (larger clutch nut) by turning it towards the rear cowling. You want to screw in the adjuster towards the lever to give it as much play as possible. Once it is all the way in, align the slots in the knurled locknut and the adjuster nut with the slot in the backside of the lever. I found that it was easier to lift the lever off and flip it over, then do this.



having troubles, i have removed the 8mm bolt and loosened the knurled clutch nut

having troubles, i have removed the 8mm bolt and loosened the knurled clutch nut

... and??

have you seen this DIY? pics might help you with your problem.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10016

all done, they look sweet. i love em

I'm wondering if anyone can help...I installed the brake lever without any problem. Then when I went to do the clutch side I ran into a problem. The 8mm nut underneath spins the whole bolt when turned. I've tried holding the bolt in place with vice grips so it doesn't spin and then tried to undo the nut... and nothing. The nut just spins in place... any ideas on how to get it off?

sounds like someone stripped the threads on the bolt by over tightening the nut. used bike?

to get the nut off, try applying some pressure to the nut while backing it off by wedging a flat blade screwdriver between the nut and the clutch perch.

sounds like someone stripped the threads on the bolt by over tightening the nut. used bike?

to get the nut off, try applying some pressure to the nut while backing it off by wedging a flat blade screwdriver between the nut and the clutch perch.

Yea, it's a used bike. I don't know why someone would've took the lever off before though as it doesn't look like it's been dropped. I'll try the screwdriver idea but first I'm going to have to go buy a new bolt and nut so that I can put it back together after. Thanks :)

just be aware that's not a normal bolt, but has a long section of it that's non threaded so the lever can pivot on it. only place to get one would be the dealer or online OEM parts supplier. You should be able to reuse the original nut if you can get it off easily with the screwdriver trick.

If I had to guess, they tried tightening up the clutch lever nut to stop the clutch lever rattle that's inherent on these bikes and over tightened it to the point of stripping the threads on the bolt.

try taking it off and see what's up. You may be able to reuse both the nut and bolt.

Just installed my pazzos yesterday...they look and feel great. I'll put some pics up soon.

I have them set all the way to 6...I have large hands and long fingers so any lower and when I go to grab the lever my fingers will kind of hit the lever. At the 6 setting I can go from the handle to the grip very smoothly and don't have to worry about getting my fingers out from underneath the lever. :thumbup: