Hey I have an '09 250r. The tachometer reads incorrectly -- 3k at idle, revving up to ~6k as the bike accelerates (doesn't sound 'accurate', but the needle moves.)

Above a certain RPM [around 8k?] the needle just drops to zero and doesn't move until I upshift and the RPM drops back below ~8k.

I've researched this at length. My options include...

-replace CDI box under rear seat with this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121087774165?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)
-replace cluster with this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/131064474820?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)

Sounds like a crap-shoot either way. Hopefully the 'used' replacement part will not be faulty, and 50/50 chance of the cluster/CDI being the culprit.

What do you guys recommend?

Take this into consideration. At one point during this bike's life, it was reportedly left in the rain with the gas cap open. Which do you think would be more likely damaged by leaving the bike in the rain? CDI or cluster/tach?

Please help, I need to get this fixed.

I had some weird tach stuff going on when my battery was about to crap out. Might be related? Does it start and crank strong?

You know how to run a multimeter?

This is my second thread on the topic, the first from which I gleaned the previously posted information.

I most certainly know how to run a multimeter, and I've got a nice fluke unit with all the bells and whistles. I've probably already done any testing that you guys might recommend, but shoot. I need to nail down the problem before I throw 140 or 40 dollars at a replacement [used] tach/CDI.

Bike starts and cranks strong. Lights are bright [they dim a titch when I go from WOT to clutch-in-coast, but they brighten back up after a second.]

All grounds are clean, all electrical connections are shiny and coated in fresh dielectric grease, battery and terminals are tight and clean, coated with protectant. Battery charges fine and reads proper charging voltage with bike running. No real issues otherwise. Nothing that sounds electrically related in any way.

Any advice?

If all other battery troubleshooting (http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Battery) checks out. You may want to start by replacing the tach. Some have been known to have issues, so have some IC ignitors (http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Ignitor_problem)(CDI).

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showpost.php?p=629663&postcount=21

I might be wrong but was your bike at proper operating temperature before you took the measurements?

This is my second thread on the topic, the first from which I gleaned the previously posted information.

I most certainly know how to run a multimeter, and I've got a nice fluke unit with all the bells and whistles. I've probably already done any testing that you guys might recommend, but shoot. I need to nail down the problem before I throw 140 or 40 dollars at a replacement [used] tach/CDI.

Bike starts and cranks strong. Lights are bright [they dim a titch when I go from WOT to clutch-in-coast, but they brighten back up after a second.]

All grounds are clean, all electrical connections are shiny and coated in fresh dielectric grease, battery and terminals are tight and clean, coated with protectant. Battery charges fine and reads proper charging voltage with bike running. No real issues otherwise. Nothing that sounds electrically related in any way.

Any advice?

Well since we have the same multimeter, and you've already checked everything I could suggest, I can only wish I could help you, and hope it works out for you :thumbup: