Hi everyone,

This is my first post but I've been reading for a long time and love this forum.

So I bought a 2008 Ninja 250 last summer and commuted to work (round trip of 20 miles) until mid-October, then drove the car. Since mid-October, I started the bike a few times and let it run, and thankfully the battery didn't die. I started riding this week to work again and will be riding whenever the weather is decent until I start up full-time again in the spring.

Anyway, just a couple of questions:

1. I start the bike on full throttle and let it run for a good 10 minutes while I finish getting ready for work. Then I throttle it down and go. Is this healthy for the bike?

2. I have stock IRC tires on at the moment and am going to be getting some new ones in the next couple of weeks (these suck on even the faintest amount of sand/gravel, which there is a lot of here in New Mexico, and not very good on rain. They feel squirrely.)

I'm thinking of going with Shinko Podiums or the slightly more expensive Pirrelli Diablo II's. My riding is mainly commuting and running errands, although I'd like to do some mountain twisties this summer. What would you guys recommend?

3. Reading through the forums, I see some references to "rubbing off" the tires after mounting them. I gather that this means I have to kind of break them in for a while before I do any serious twisties, etc. But how exactly do you break them in without being terrified you're going to go into a car or guardrail on a simple left turn at the light? Is there a way to rub off the shine manually without having to ride it out?

4. Since the bike has been sitting for about 3 months or so, should I use any additive in the fuel to clean out carbs, etc? The bike starts up fine, battery is great, but when riding at speed (not really revving up anymore), I kind of hear something that sounds like the revolutions of the engine or chain or something. Just a repetitive whrr whrr whrr. It goes away when revving up after shifting, but then comes back when I level out the speed.


I know these are noobish questions, but any help is appreciated. Thanks!

3. Reading through the forums, I see some references to "rubbing off" the tires after mounting them. I gather that this means I have to kind of break them in for a while before I do any serious twisties, etc. But how exactly do you break them in without being terrified you're going to go into a car or guardrail on a simple left turn at the light? Is there a way to rub off the shine manually without having to ride it out?

4. Since the bike has been sitting for about 3 months or so, should I use any additive in the fuel to clean out carbs, etc? The bike starts up fine, battery is great, but when riding at speed (not really revving up anymore), I kind of hear something that sounds like the revolutions of the engine or chain or something. Just a repetitive whrr whrr whrr. It goes away when revving up after shifting, but then comes back when I level out the speed.

With respecto to "scrubbing in" new tires: everyone has a different opinion. Most conservative is "ride the first 50 miles like you're on ice, ride the second 50 miles like you would in the rain. I like to ride a few tenths of a mile on a gravel road or gravel parking lot to initially break them in.

Just take it easy for the first few miles on your new tires.

If the bike's running OK, you don't need to add anything to the gas. I suspect the whrr-whrr is the chain: it's probably oscillating at its dynamic resonant frequency based on speed and tightness/loosness (technobabble for "don't worry about it too much, but verify that it's in good shape and it's adjusted correctly").

Hi everyone,

This is my first post but I've been reading for a long time and love this forum.

So I bought a 2008 Ninja 250 last summer and commuted to work (round trip of 20 miles) until mid-October, then drove the car. Since mid-October, I started the bike a few times and let it run, and thankfully the battery didn't die. I started riding this week to work again and will be riding whenever the weather is decent until I start up full-time again in the spring.

Anyway, just a couple of questions:

1. I start the bike on full throttle and let it run for a good 10 minutes while I finish getting ready for work. Then I throttle it down and go. Is this healthy for the bike?

2. I have stock IRC tires on at the moment and am going to be getting some new ones in the next couple of weeks (these suck on even the faintest amount of sand/gravel, which there is a lot of here in New Mexico, and not very good on rain. They feel squirrely.)

I'm thinking of going with Shinko Podiums or the slightly more expensive Pirrelli Diablo II's. My riding is mainly commuting and running errands, although I'd like to do some mountain twisties this summer. What would you guys recommend?

3. Reading through the forums, I see some references to "rubbing off" the tires after mounting them. I gather that this means I have to kind of break them in for a while before I do any serious twisties, etc. But how exactly do you break them in without being terrified you're going to go into a car or guardrail on a simple left turn at the light? Is there a way to rub off the shine manually without having to ride it out?

4. Since the bike has been sitting for about 3 months or so, should I use any additive in the fuel to clean out carbs, etc? The bike starts up fine, battery is great, but when riding at speed (not really revving up anymore), I kind of hear something that sounds like the revolutions of the engine or chain or something. Just a repetitive whrr whrr whrr. It goes away when revving up after shifting, but then comes back when I level out the speed.


I know these are noobish questions, but any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Welcome!

Start the bike on full throttle? :vroom: I think you mean with the choke on. :) Is it good for the bike to idle on choke for 10 mins? Not really, the bike only needs to be
warmed up enough to accept throttle input without sputtering, bucking and what not. The bike is best warmed under the load of riding it. Turn the choke off when it's no longer
needed.

IRC tires, yea many riders replace them asap. Some riders seek them out for their high mileage lifetime.

Rubbing off?!?!? Wait, what are we talking about here? :lolsign: Yep, just take it easy for a few miles to "scrub in" the tires.

The whrr, whrr, whrr sound is most likely your chain. Time for a cleaning a lube?

Welcome again, don't mind us for the funny business. We like to have a good time.

Thanks guys!

Ha ha, yes I meant full choke.

As for the chain, good tips. When I bought the bike last May, I had a new chain put on. It is looking a bit dirty, though. I think a good cleaning and lubing will come in handy.

Is it okay to clean it with gasoline? Someone told me that.

And if it's just the first 100 miles or so that I need to be extra careful on the new tires, that's easy enough.

I'd love to hear anyone's feedback on Shinko Podiums vs Diablo II's.

Thanks again!

:)

Thanks guys!

Ha ha, yes I meant full choke.

As for the chain, good tips. When I bought the bike last May, I had a new chain put on. It is looking a bit dirty, though. I think a good cleaning and lubing will come in handy.

Is it okay to clean it with gasoline? Someone told me that.

And if it's just the first 100 miles or so that I need to be extra careful on the new tires, that's easy enough.

I'd love to hear anyone's feedback on Shinko Podiums vs Diablo II's.

Thanks again!

:)

Not sure about gas, many of us have used kerosene and some swear by it. Others use various products.

Hit up the search feature, there are a ton of threads on Shinko's and Diablo's.

Kerosene or diesel are the "normal" cleaners. Gasoline (cheap and available) would probably work, but it is fairly nasty stuff and really flamable (as we all know). Gas might be a bit harder on the rubber O- or X-rings, too.

If you use gas, do it outside away from the house. And wear solvent-proof gloves.

I should clean the chains on the ninjette and the baby KLR (that one's really dirty!): I might buy half a gallon of diesel for several cleanings. FWIW, I'm fairly new to this chain stuff, as most of my bike maintaining has been on shaft drives.

1. I start the bike on full throttle and let it run for a good 10 minutes while I finish getting ready for work. Then I throttle it down and go. Is this healthy for the bike?

I think you mean the Choke and it usually runs up to 4k on my bike before i start to let it down, when it is colder.


2. I have stock IRC tires on at the moment and am going to be getting some new ones in the next couple of weeks (these suck on even the faintest amount of sand/gravel, which there is a lot of here in New Mexico, and not very good on rain. They feel squirrely.)

What do you mean by squirrly? The 250 tires are narrower then most tires and has a smaller contact patch. What kind of Air pressure are you running?


3. Reading through the forums, I see some references to "rubbing off" the tires after mounting them. I gather that this means I have to kind of break them in for a while before I do any serious twisties, etc. But how exactly do you break them in without being terrified you're going to go into a car or guardrail on a simple left turn at the light? Is there a way to rub off the shine manually without having to ride it out?

New tires just means ride a little slower then normal gradually lean into turns, the warmer the weather/roads the quicker you can break them in. A lot of tires is about "feeling" what the bike is doing. The power of the 250R is not enough to cause a huge spin with out you noticing, but if you are not giving enough throttle while leaned you may feel like you are going to tip.

4. Since the bike has been sitting for about 3 months or so, should I use any additive in the fuel to clean out carbs, etc? The bike starts up fine, battery is great, but when riding at speed (not really revving up anymore), I kind of hear something that sounds like the revolutions of the engine or chain or something. Just a repetitive whrr whrr whrr. It goes away when revving up after shifting, but then comes back when I level out the speed.


I know these are noobish questions, but any help is appreciated. Thanks!

you will need new gas ASAP, i let my bike sit for a month w/o additive (stabil) and it ran like **** until i ran a full tank of good gas through it.

Kerosene or diesel are the "normal" cleaners. .......

After doing some searching, I think I'm going to try some of the Dupont products for the chain.

This for cleaning: http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Motorcycle-Degreaser-11-oz/16672660

And this for lubing: http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659

At $7 a bottle it's not too much of an investment, and they've gotten pretty good reviews.



What do you mean by squirrly? The 250 tires are narrower then most tires and has a smaller contact patch. What kind of Air pressure are you running?

Right now I'm at about 29psi on both tires. What I mean by squirrely is that sometimes when I lean into a turn, I feel my back tire start to "wobble" a bit. I'm also wanting to get stickier tires because sometimes when I break hard (not in an emergency situation; just testing it on an empty road), the back tire will slide and doesn't really grip anything.


you will need new gas ASAP, i let my bike sit for a month w/o additive (stabil) and it ran like **** until i ran a full tank of good gas through it.

Yeah, I know what you mean. It's not running as smooth as it did last summer. I had about a quarter tank of gas in it when I started it back up, and I just filled it yesterday with new gas, so it's going to be a mix of old and new.

After doing some searching, I think I'm going to try some of the Dupont products for the chain.

This for cleaning: http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Motorcycle-Degreaser-11-oz/16672660

And this for lubing: http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659

At $7 a bottle it's not too much of an investment, and they've gotten pretty good reviews.



Right now I'm at about 29psi on both tires. What I mean by squirrely is that sometimes when I lean into a turn, I feel my back tire start to "wobble" a bit. I'm also wanting to get stickier tires because sometimes when I break hard (not in an emergency situation; just testing it on an empty road), the back tire will slide and doesn't really grip anything.



Yeah, I know what you mean. It's not running as smooth as it did last summer. I had about a quarter tank of gas in it when I started it back up, and I just filled it yesterday with new gas, so it's going to be a mix of old and new.

the back tire is going to lock up under breaking, especially if it isnt warm. the weight shifts forward, which on the 250Rs, about 80% or more of your brake power will be the front brake, because of the weight balance.

Right now I'm at about 29psi on both tires. What I mean by squirrely is that sometimes when I lean into a turn, I feel my back tire start to "wobble" a bit. I'm also wanting to get stickier tires because sometimes when I break hard (not in an emergency situation; just testing it on an empty road), the back tire will slide and doesn't really grip anything.


Wobble? Not sure what you mean here. When you are braking hard are you using both brakes? If so, a stickier tire isn't gunna help all that much. It doesn't take much to skid the rear tire when your loaded up pretty good in the front.

It's not running as smooth as it did last summer. I had about a quarter tank of gas in it when I started it back up, and I just filled it yesterday with new gas, so it's going to be a mix of old and new.
To save yourself some trouble, always fill the tank to the top and add stabilizer before storing. Ethanol-free 87 is the best choice if you can get it.

A couple other tips for proper storing and easy starting -

It's a very good idea to change the oil and filter (and run for 1 min only) if it's going to sit for an extended period - and never start it up to "warm it up" during storage.

After you fill the tank and add stabilizer (and change the oil) drain the floatbowls. You will need to crank some to get the fuel to flow again in spring because of the vacuum petcock, so make sure the battery is fully charged (12.6V).

If the gas is summer-blend, and the temps are significantly lower than when you filled it up you'll usually have difficulty starting. You'll also have trouble if you are on the edge of running lean in the summer, as you'll be significantly leaner in cold temps. Gas with ethanol will make it leaner still.

Thanks for your tips, guys.

Right now I'm at about 29psi on both tires. What I mean by squirrely is that sometimes when I lean into a turn, I feel my back tire start to "wobble" a bit. I'm also wanting to get stickier tires because sometimes when I break hard (not in an emergency situation; just testing it on an empty road), the back tire will slide.


I think I know what you are feeling. Better tires helped my bike tremendously. Also see what your preload is set at. At 130lbs I had mine set on the second highest setting but I rode pretty hard.

Also, you shouldn't really be using your rear brake.

Almost forgot. Welcome! :thumbup:

I think I know what you are feeling. Better tires helped my bike tremendously. Also see what your preload is set at. At 130lbs I had mine set on the second highest setting but I rode pretty hard.

Also, you shouldn't really be using your rear brake.

Almost forgot. Welcome! :thumbup:

Thanks for the welcome!

I'm excited about the upcoming riding season. I just purchased a new helmet (AGV K-4 Evo) and got rid of the junky Bilt one I had. It felt cheap and I had the feeling my head would crack like an egg if I ever went down. This new one is a better shell and very light.

I'm definitely going to get some new tires, hopefully in the next couple of weeks. After that, I want to upgrade my jacket, maybe get some riding jeans, and then a nice paint job for my bike.

I'm starting the year early so come spring I will be good to go.


As far as the rear brake is concerned, I use both simultaneously but now that I think of it, I'm not sure which one I use the most pressure on; I'll have to test it soon. I've always had a feeling that if I use the front brake too much, the bike's rear will jump up. . .

I've always had a feeling that if I use the front brake too much, the bike's rear will jump up. . .

May not be such a bad thing...

http://bornefreestyle.com/freestyle/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/Stoppie-Kiss.jpg


But seriously use your front brake. There have been a million threads about it and I'm sure csmith12 or someone like that has a technical way to explain it.

As far as the rear brake is concerned, I use both simultaneously but now that I think of it, I'm not sure which one I use the most pressure on; I'll have to test it soon. I've always had a feeling that if I use the front brake too much, the bike's rear will jump up. . .

Front only vs. both brakes has been debated to death. But I can assure you, it takes nearly a purposeful and VERY hard squeeze to bring the rear of the bike up. For example; us racers on track with go from the upper 90's to low 40's in about 100f or less and the rear still stays on the ground, well... mostly on the ground anyway. :rolleyes: What is "mostly likely" to happen is the front forks will bottom out and the whole front starts to feel like 2 2x4s and the front tire starts to skid a bit.

As far as the rear brake is concerned, I use both simultaneously but now that I think of it, I'm not sure which one I use the most pressure on; I'll have to test it soon. I've always had a feeling that if I use the front brake too much, the bike's rear will jump up. . .
You've seen what the rear can do if you apply it too hard. Locking and skidding don't do much to help you really slow down, and just get the cycle out of shape.

Practice with the front - it's the one that's going to get the job done and haul you down when it really matters.

It takes a lot of front braking to lift the rear high enough to be a problem, but the rear will get light when you are really braking hard - that's a big reason the rear isn't going to do much. You need to apply the front firmly, smoothly, and progressively - but not too slowly - in order to get the best braking. A quick jab and it will lock the wheel.

Get a feel for the front, and use the rear if you like, but know that when it really matters the rear is mostly along for the ride.

Hmm, good points. I will have to take it out to a parking lot and practice using more of the front brake. I've had a couple of near-accidents because of idiots turning onto the road in front of me, and I've had to brake hard. The back tire locked up a couple of times and started getting away from me.

Scary.

Do some searching on winter storage. There's lots of info out there.

- The reason you do not want to start it up during winter just to warm it up/charge the battery is that you get condensation in the engine. It takes a while for it to evaporate. If you don't run the bike long enough, it can cause corrosion.

- Your gas is probably okay, but maybe not. Gas does go stale/create varnish/sludge/etc. This cannot be reversed, but it can be prevented by adding fuel stabilizer before storage. If your bike starts and runs, don't worry about it... just run through the old tank and put some fresh in. If it runs poorly, consider putting some fuel system cleaner (e.g. Seafoam) in to clean the carbs/jets/etc.

- I've never let the engine scream up to high rpm. That CAN'T be good, but the real issue with cold engines is the wear that happens under load. Best practice is to use only enough choke to keep the engine running. As it warms, less and less will be needed.

The short version of winter storage:
1) Go on one last ride to warm the engine. During that ride, fill the tank to the top and add fuel stabilizer.
2) When you get home, change the oil and filter.
3) Put the bike up on stands if you have them.
4) Clean and lube your chain, and generally clean up the bike so you don't have to do it in the spring.
5) Plug the bike into a Battery Tender.
6) Sleep well at night, because on that first glorious spring day your bike WILL start right up, run PERFECTLY and all you'll need to do is ride it.

Do some searching on winter storage. There's lots of info out there.

- The reason you do not want to start it up during winter just to warm it up/charge the battery is that you get condensation in the engine. It takes a while for it to evaporate. If you don't run the bike long enough, it can cause corrosion.

- Your gas is probably okay, but maybe not. Gas does go stale/create varnish/sludge/etc. This cannot be reversed, but it can be prevented by adding fuel stabilizer before storage. If your bike starts and runs, don't worry about it... just run through the old tank and put some fresh in. If it runs poorly, consider putting some fuel system cleaner (e.g. Seafoam) in to clean the carbs/jets/etc.

- I've never let the engine scream up to high rpm. That CAN'T be good, but the real issue with cold engines is the wear that happens under load. Best practice is to use only enough choke to keep the engine running. As it warms, less and less will be needed.

The short version of winter storage:
1) Go on one last ride to warm the engine. During that ride, fill the tank to the top and add fuel stabilizer.
2) When you get home, change the oil and filter.
3) Put the bike up on stands if you have them.
4) Clean and lube your chain, and generally clean up the bike so you don't have to do it in the spring.
5) Plug the bike into a Battery Tender.
6) Sleep well at night, because on that first glorious spring day your bike WILL start right up, run PERFECTLY and all you'll need to do is ride it.

Thanks for the write up, this is perfect.