what does any one know about synthetic oils for are ninjetes ???

After the ninjettes first 600 miles I glugged her full of full synthetic oil, let the beating begin!!

Thanks for the quick response Im full of questions ? alot has changed in 20yrs.Any way what type synthetic would you recomend ?do you need a different type fillter ?

I used Motorex PowerSynth 4T, and the stock filter (actually a Fram from Cycle Gear), I have faith that this will do the trick, For break in I kept it under 6k for the 1st 300 miles, then occasional non sustained runs to the 8k neighborhood up to the 600 miles, I have ridden it on the freeway a couple times since the oil change hitting 9k on occasion, I have yet to wring it's neck to 12k but I believe it will hold together just fine, the recomended break in was a bit of overkill in my opinion, 500 miles at a max speed of 36mph would have taken me a year.

I am planning a 6-700 mile trip in the next couple weeks and after seeing the video on kawasaki's website about the guy who rode an ex250 from Key West to Prudoe Bay Alaska, I feel the ninja is up to the task.

Get some miles on it and have some fun:thumbup:

Thanks again , Yes sir i was freaking out on the 4k 35mph. as well.i bought a 650 klr back in june an o8,the owners manual same thing 4k but on the 650 its alot safer speed,got suspious. whent to the dealer to see whats up.Lucked out thier happed to be a Kaw rep.there,He said the 4ks there in case someone goes out & just blows the engine on like purpose.The Kaw peapole can come back and say ah ya exseaded 4k no warrenty. Said break it in like ya ride,if he only knew,do alot of city or in town alot of start stops cause youre breaking in the tranny as well,said thier was a rev limiter.if going on an exstened ride varry the rpms dont stay at a rs.Well thats pretty much how we did it back in the day,made the rest of my break in alot more in joyabul,i baybed it cause it is my little green baby 1st street bike ive ever owned and i Love it ride it more than the 650. Now i ride it up thier in the 11s & 12s ill change over to syn. after the 4000 check up.LORD willing i plan a trip to denver about 500mi from hear plan on takeing the ninja this week end or next.Any way thanks again i apologize for my poor spelling.Do from working 2 jobs and sleeping though high school so i could get a 250 ossa six day 1974 back in the day dont seem that long ago. anyway thanks David

I am not so sure that Synthetic Oil is worth the extra expense. An engine is really not truely broken in until it has 1500 miles logged. Synthetic, because it is so slippery, prolongs engine break in. For road riding at reasonable speeds, the oil Kawasaki recommends, its house brand, is more than adequate. Racing applicarions are a different story. You still need to change your oil and filter every 2500 miles. I have been around motorcycles and performance cars for 50 years and have rebuilt a lot of engines. I still think synthetic is overkill.

I run Valvoline 10w40 in the 07.
I have run Wal Mart brand (maybe the same as Castrol GTX) oil in my cars and trucks for years.
I am not so much a believer in the type of oil/filter that you use, I think that timely regular maintenance is the key.

Oh yeah, I have NEVER believed in the 5,000-7,000 mile oil change hype.
Based on what I have seen, fuel gets past the rings and contaminates oil.
I 100% agree with the 2,500 interval.

I would have postponed the full synthetic thing a few more miles had I known it wouldn't be fully broken in till 1500. But since I had accelerated the break in procedure and not followed the manufacturers guidelines precisely (see above) I figured it wouldn't hurt (and I had a gallon sitting in the garage left over from a different bike.)

I do believe you should allways use a motorcycle specific oil, since it lubes the transmission as well, and avoid standard automotive type motor oil.

I think I'm ready to ride the bike without babying it now.

good times:thumbup:

About a year ago, I read an article from a guy they call Moto-man. He claims that a motorcycle engine is 95% broken in at 50 miles.

I did not follow the Kawasaki break in recommendation. It did not feel right bogging the motor for so many miles. I rode soft for about 200 miles and then let 'er fly!

Mark, You should be OK with your bike. If it starts to use oil, then I would go back to conventional MC oil until the bike was broken in. Personally, I use what is recommended--10W40 Kawasaki Oil. In my Yamaha Outboard, I use Yamalube. They have their own additives that their engineers know work best. Again for racing--use what the racing guys use. My stance is that if you ride on the road--even "performance ride", it is not racing. Racing demands a whole new set of expectations from your engine. Racing oils can gum up your engine if used in road riding conditions. We have a guy here who has a Honda Sport Bike and uses Sunoco 260 gasoline and synthetic oil that costs $15.00 a Qt. His bike does not spec out as well as the EX250R in terms of compression and peak RPM. In my view, he is throwing money away. I doubt that his engine will last any longer than mine.

Yes, I think it will be fine, after todays ride with the flogging I delivered the bike, it seems just fine. I have seen some abused ex250s that were together after tens of thousands of miles, I think the engineers got the bugs worked out of this design:thumbup:

My father-in-law is a retired manufacturing engineer who was previously a tool and die maker. This is a person who is a stickler for precision and quality. His impression of the Ninja is that it is a well thought out, well made, quality machine that is certainly worth the money. It is really all the machine anybody needs. If I were to go touring, I would probably consider a metric cruiser in the 650 to 750cc range with a sidecar.

I hit the 5000 mile mark today and decided to switch over from using conventional Castrol motorcycle oil to Shell Rotella® T Synthetic with API CJ -4 Technology (http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/product_rotellasynthcj4.html). Can I just say wow:eek:. Shifting was smooth, like slicing through butter.

The only drawback that I noticed was that my engine did not idle steadily at 1500 RPM, its almost as if it was running rich, so that means I have to go back in and adjust the mixture screw settings. :mad:

what is the idle speed set to and what are the symptoms of the idle problem? don't understand what you mean by seems to be running rich.

It is set at 1500, so when I blip the throttle, it falls below the set point and then takes awhile for it to come back up. Doesn't that indicate it running rich?

Before the switch, when I blipped the throttle, it would return to the set point right away.

yep, that's a sign of a rich idle circuit. can't imagine why changing the oil would make a diff, though. :confused:

I assume you're doing this after the bike is fully warmed up?

Yeah, after I took it for a 20 mile spin was testing how it idled thereafter and found that it was running rich. Thought it was funny that it would be doing that after switching to synthetic, so just wanted to see if it that was common or odd.

adjust the mixture screws and let us know. when's the last time you had the carbs synced?

Synced them with the ghetto bottle method around 3k.

should be close then.

try adjusting the mixture screws and see what happens. let us know if the idling condition improves.

/moving to 2008+ section

took my bike out today for the first time since switching to semi-synthetic oil. i usually have my idle set to about 1300 rpms. today after riding around for a bit, it was running at 1900 rpms. i meant to adjust it back down when i got home, but i forgot to.

this may have been answered before, but does the rpms usually rise after swtiching over to synthetics?

other than that, my bike ran fine. actually the loud "clunk" i usually get at 1-2 and 2-3 has been replaced with a "click", so i am happy.

took my bike out today for the first time since switching to semi-synthetic oil. i usually have my idle set to about 1300 rpms. today after riding around for a bit, it was running at 1900 rpms. i meant to adjust it back down when i got home, but i forgot to.

this may have been answered before, but does the rpms usually rise after swtiching over to synthetics?

other than that, my bike ran fine. actually the loud "clunk" i usually get at 1-2 and 2-3 has been replaced with a "click", so i am happy.

I switched to synthetic recently and have not noticed any change in RPMs. About the only difference I've noticed at all is that the clutch is somewhat smoother, but it's still clunky. I miss my Yamahas, as they would always shift like butta.

i was wondering if i should switch to synthetic oil. my dealership said he recommended it. is there really a benefit?

i was wondering if i should switch to synthetic oil. my dealership said he recommended it. is there really a benefit?

It costs more so that fact alone makes it better and thus more benefitial.:D
Synth oil doesn't break down as quick as conventional oil.

any difference in power and does it accelerate smoother?

when should u switch to fully synthetic?

im at 700 now and about to do my first oil change
i wanted to do it sooner but i keep pushing it back and im drawing the line here lol

Simon - wait until you have a couple of oil changes out of the way before you switch. And if you keep your eyes peeled, I should be posting a guide to the 600-mile service tomorrow.

alright cool, sorry bout all the questions, just want to stay informed lol

any difference in power and does it accelerate smoother?

Kinda sorta. After I made the switch the engine/exhaust sounded a little deeper. The main difference was in shifting. Extremely smooth. Almost scary smooth. Also noticed a slight incease im mpg.

Kinda sorta. After I made the switch the engine/exhaust sounded a little deeper. The main difference was in shifting. Extremely smooth. Almost scary smooth. Also noticed a slight incease im mpg.

Wish I could say the same. The improvement in ease of shifting is noticeable, but this bike still shifts like a dog. I still have to kick (and I mean kick) it down the gears coming to a stop light at times and it's still clunky as hell. I've never had a wet clutch that was so stiff and I typically use a lot of clutch. I'm hoping it will loosen up a bit after it has more miles on it.

that's funny i fell that i already shift with ease. you might want to have your clunky clutch checked out but what do i know this is my first bike.

Wish I could say the same. The improvement in ease of shifting is noticeable, but this bike still shifts like a dog. I still have to kick (and I mean kick) it down the gears coming to a stop light at times and it's still clunky as hell. I've never had a wet clutch that was so stiff and I typically use a lot of clutch. I'm hoping it will loosen up a bit after it has more miles on it.

you know a whole lot more about bikes than i do, but i posted a thread a while back about my bike having problems shifting gears (actually, you even posted in it). did you do those things that alex suggested to me? it helped with my symptoms. that clutch lever gap was the main thing for mine, although adjusting the shift rod helped too.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13544&highlight=shift

I've tweaked about everything I can to make the shifting smoother. Between that and switching to synthetic oil there has been some improvement, but it's still pretty "clunky". The fact that I could notice the slight difference in shifting with the synthetic oil makes me think it's the design of the transmission itself that's the problem. This is my second '08 Ninja and I had the exact same stiffness and clunkiness with the first bike. My previous 2 bikes were Yamahas (250 & 400) and they were very smooth. The shifting on the Yamaha 250 compared to the Ninja 250 was like night and day. The shift lever easily popped into the next gear with just the slightest of input and I never had the problems downshifting that I have with the Ninja. Not that it happens every time I shift, but it happens enough that it's noticeable and distracting. I'm hoping that things will improve as the transmission wears in a bit. This is a comparatively inexpensive bike and it's never going to shift quite as well as a top of the line F1 or CBR1000 with a slipper clutch, but it would be nice if it shifted at least as smoothly as my old Yamaha 250. :rolleyes:

700??? WOW, i'm on my 4th oil change at 1000km, doing my first filter change though.

when should u switch to fully synthetic?

im at 700 now and about to do my first oil change
i wanted to do it sooner but i keep pushing it back and im drawing the line here lol

700??? WOW, i'm on my 4th oil change at 1000km, doing my first filter change though.

Isn't that rather unnecessary? The 250's service chart says one needs to change the oil and filter after 1000km, and after that every year or 12000km, and "more frequently" under severe conditions ("...dusty, wet, muddy, high speed, or frequent start/stopping").

Isn't that rather unnecessary?


that depends on who you are. :D

don't believe everything you read in the manual. That is the minimum you would want to do to keep the warranty in effect.

Isn't that rather unnecessary? The 250's service chart says one needs to change the oil and filter after 1000km, and after that every year or 12000km, and "more frequently" under severe conditions ("...dusty, wet, muddy, high speed, or frequent start/stopping").


Also during the break in period, they do recomend doing it more.
Now that I've done my 1000km change I'll do another at 4000km and then chainge to synthetic at 8000km(unless I do more track days then expected) I do ride my baby hard..and I'm a little rough on my bike as well ;) lol so having good lube is important lol

I hit the 5000 mile mark today and decided to switch over from using conventional Castrol motorcycle oil to Shell Rotella® T Synthetic with API CJ -4 Technology (http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/product_rotellasynthcj4.html). Can I just say wow:eek:. Shifting was smooth, like slicing through butter.

The only drawback that I noticed was that my engine did not idle steadily at 1500 RPM, its almost as if it was running rich, so that means I have to go back in and adjust the mixture screw settings. :mad:

Hey i bought some of the Rotella T 5w40 that islanderman bought, the SAME exact kind! i Noticed taht Kelly posted a pic of Rotella T, it was a DIFF Bottle, and that bottle has diff API ratings n stuff... so im asking... can the Ninja 250R use BOTH? or is 1 of the Rotella T syn 5w40s Better, for the Ninja then the other? :confused:

essentially the same. I believe the newer is an updated product of the other. I remember PMs that islanderman and myself had about the differences and from what I could tell from the Shell website, the new oil is acceptable to use in our bikes, though not all of the specs are the same, as you mentioned.

essentially the same. I believe the newer is an updated product of the other. I remember PMs that islanderman and myself had about the differences and from what I could tell from the Shell website, the new oil is acceptable to use in our bikes, though not all of the specs are the same, as you mentioned.

yea, i figured it was just a 'newer container design' from the Blue type container you used (in your oil change DIK) but maybe it depends on the area you live in, as to what the store accually Sells, between the 2 Rotella T Syn's

the autoparts guy at the walmart i bought my 5w40 from, said that, that is the Only one he knows of. When i asked him, if theres a 'Fully Synthetic' and a 'Synthetic' of the 5w40. He said no, the One right here the "Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 w/ API CJ-4" is a Full Synthetic!

when i looked on shells website... the links of the 2 5w40's you can see the API differences... but i was just concerned if 1 of the 2 5w40s would HURT the Ninja 250R

Just wondering after how many miles will shifting no longer feel like cutting butter?

In my experience with dino oil, this feeling last ~800 miles. Hopefully it is much longer with synthetic.

clutchless upshifing is much nicer with full synthetics and can wait twice as long to change the oil than with conventional.

clutchless upshifing is much nicer with full synthetics and can wait twice as long to change the oil than with conventional.

I wouldn't and I wouldn't.

I wouldn't and I wouldn't.

BIG +1 on both points there.

I wouldn't and I wouldn't.

are your oil change intervals the same?

I'm going to be using 3k as my change intervals. If I were doing a lot of miles, I would consider 5K.

When switching to synthetic oil, doubling oil change intervals applied to car engines, and only with premium synthetic products, and only in advertising hype of the early days of synth when dino recommendations went from 5K to 3K. Then, the early synth was supposed to be good for 6K+, but at the time it was almost 3-5X the price of a quart of typical mid grade dino oil. Even today, it's generally still at leat 2-3X the price of dino, making the advantages of synth out of financial reach or reason for the average user.

This is part of what I posted in another thread on oil viscosity choice:

Lets take a typical 10w30 oil. Multi grade oil has a tremendous amount of additives and chemical manipulation that causes the base oil, in our example a 10 weight, to swell when heated. It has to be thin enough to NOT cause as much parasitic drag on the engine under high load start up, but has to be thick enough to provide lubrication and protection to critical engine parts. As the oil gets to operating temp, the molecules swell and thicken, until it will test as viscous as straight 30 weight oil, providing maximum engine protection. It's those chemical modifiers/molecules that cause the oil to 'swell' that break down and burn off first, followed at a slower rate by the base oil.

There is TONS of research and independant info that shows that dino oils typically loose half their viscosity in car engines about 1800-2000 miles. It's a testiment to the modern materials that the engines continue to run well under those conditions. Usually, by 3000 miles, testing shows that dino oils are at about 1/3 their 'new' rated viscosity, as well as hyper contaminated with the products of combustion and break down.

Thus, a typical mid grade (that most of us use) Havoline/Penzoil/Quaker State/Mobil 1/insert brand name here 10w30 oil, after 2K miles will test something like a 5w15, and by 3K is so contaminated and broken down it tests in the neighborhood of a 3w10. That's why an engine burns oil the more it's used, and why it's normal to have a lower volume of used oil than when you put it in new!

Research in the late 80's and early 90's discovered this, which is PART of why pre mid-90s engines had a life expectancy of only 100K miles and why oil change intervals WERE 5000 miles but are now 3000 miles for they typical auto.

Better oveall oil additive packages to prevent break down, increase heat tolerance, materials science, and advances in machine tools now let us make a better engine than ever before, but recommended oil change intervals haven't gone back up (some manufacturers recommend higher intervals in their owners manuals, but they also specify HIGHER GRADE oils with that increase!!!). Of course, there are some exceptions!

One would be the motorcycle, especially one that shared engine oil with it's gearbox and clutch.

Still wanna stick to that oil change interval as recommended?

And the final answer for best protection, as recommended by so many independant researchers, is chaning the oil NOT LATER THAN every 3K miles (for dino). They're a bit more disjointed on their recommendations on synth, but I've never seen it recommended to go as long as the synth manufacturers recommend, and never more than 5K, and NEVER the hype of 'double the oil change interval' that was so prevalent in early sales literature for synth oils.

Bottom line, though, is that changing the oil more often, but within reason, is the best protection.

Bottom line, though, is that changing the oil more often, but within reason, is the best protection.

Nice write up Banzai! :thumbup: Didn't know about the viscosity break down - now it all makes sense!

I wouldn't and I wouldn't.

Dont clutchless upshift very often, mainly do it when splitting a lane at a red light and need to get in front of traffic asap(cagers here haul ass). Change oil between 4-5k intervals. But Im sure everyone rides different in different conditions.

I'm currently using amsoil synthetic in my bike, I thought it was running fine at first until I tried my buddies 2008 with only 1400 KM on his...his bike was much smoother... now Im not sure if its because his is practicaly new or because he is using normal oil.. mmh..

When I was trying to decide which oil to use, I considered Valvoline Racing 20w50 since it had been my choice in drag engines for years. After talking to the tech guy at Valvoline, he told me that you need to make sure the oil you are using does not contain moly, as it will adhere to the clutch and cause it to slip. With a wet clutch setup, you must use motorcycle specific oil to prevent damage to the clutch. Most automotive engine oils contain moly as an anti-wear agent. Make sure the oil you are using doesn't contain moly (molybdenum disulfide). I've used Valvoline 20W50 4 stroke motorcycle oil since the first change and have had no issues.

I assume the Rotella that is so popular around here does not have moly?

I assume not. Rotella is popular on every motorcycling forum I've been to. Everyone loves the stuff, many swear by it, and evangelize it.

;) I haven't tried it yet.

When is it safe to switch to synthetic? I was planning to do it at 1,000kms (600 miles).

I switched at 1000 miles. many wait at least a few thousand.

I'd recommend you get through the break in period first, which is 1000 miles.

Did my first oil change today and everything went well thanks to kelly's DIY. I will check in a couple of days to make sure there is no leaks, overtorque the filter bolt a little with my ratchet when it didn't click with the torque wrench i loostened it and tightened again until it finally clicked. I will wait for 1,600kms to switch to synthetic :(

I changed to synthetic this weekend at 2500km. Amsoil 10w40. Honestly I don't think I can tell the difference between now and before. I would have changed to synthetic regardless, but I'm a little disappointed that there wasn't a 'wow' factor when I changed ;)

Performance wise there is no difference. The difference comes from longer engine life due to better protection. IMHO.

Right, but lots of people have said that shifting has improved

Yes I have noticed that shifting is smoother. You will probably have to wait till the next oil change to notice this due to the fact that you still have a little bit of conventional oil left when you change to synthetic. You can't completely drain every drop of the old oil.

My Kawasaki dealer is advising me to run mineral oil all the way to 9,000 to 10,000 kms (5,600 to 6,200 miles). Isn't that a little long to be doing so?

I currently have 1,900 kms (1,200 miles) on my bike and am getting prepared for its hibernation. Would it be a good time to convert the bike to synthetic, or should I continue with mineral oil?

I switched at 1000 miles and have had no problems. As long as you are comfortable that your engine is fully broken in, making a switch now would be okay.

this is a good place to start reading, many other oil threads as well:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10780&highlight=oil+change

welcome to the forum!

You can run synthetic at 0 miles. Your dealer needs some education.

You can run synthetic at 0 miles. Your dealer needs some education.

+1.

Make the switch - you will love it :thumbup:

Would you just do a regular oil change, replace filter and pour in synthetic?

Or are there any other steps to changing to syn?

just make sure all the old oil is out.

just make sure all the old oil is out.

There's no problem with synthetic and non-synthetic mixing, so there's no need to do anything special other than just drain the old oil.

I switched at 300 miles.

I've mentioned before my opinion about when you should switch to synthetic so this time, I'll let Arnold decide.

u6ALySsPXt0

My Kawasaki dealer is advising me to run mineral oil all the way to 9,000 to 10,000 kms (5,600 to 6,200 miles). Isn't that a little long to be doing so?

I currently have 1,900 kms (1,200 miles) on my bike and am getting prepared for its hibernation. Would it be a good time to convert the bike to synthetic, or should I continue with mineral oil?

With a hard break-in, like running at a track for two full days, you can change it right then and there. Since that isn't the case, 1500 miles is the usual recommendation, from the people at the track anyway.

what does any one know about synthetic oils for are ninjetes ???

Depends on the climate you live/ride in. I got an 05 250 in the mid atlantic states and ran a semi-synthetic, still do as it's a short trip bike for me. I now have a 500 ninja in the tropics and run redline only, which is a certain type of synthetic, and I can ride the piss out it in the highest heat and she still purrs.

Just bought two liters of motorex synthetic oil. It is 15 w50. Oil color is green. Anyone used this oil? What is your experience with it? Been using motul, but it seems like my bike runs a bit hot. Just changed it last week so i want to maximize it before switching to the motorex oil i bought.

is 50wt called for to use in your bike? what are the temps where you live? the manual calls for 10-40wt oil for most of us here.

Could get up to more than 100 at times. Farenheight. That's under the sun... On a traffic jam at that.

I've been using 50w for 2 years and have never looked back.
Green oil? That is interesting. My 2 cycle oil is green.

Yeah. It's green. Verified that it's 4t after reading your post.

if you see +100*F temps, then yes, a 50wt oil is recommended. if not, I wouldn't use it.

Read the articles recommended about oil, but still have some questions. I use Mobil 1 in my car and was wondering which full synthetic is best for the Ninja 250? And is there a certain amount of mileage I should have on my bike before I switch from conventional to synthetic? (I've got about 7800 miles on my bike)

You can switch no problems. I run Mobil1 4T racing synthetic. Motorcycle oil of course.

welcome to the forum. "search" is your friend.

shell rotella t6.

have a great day.....

You can switch to synthetic at any time. Run any motorcycle specific oil you like. Also, many people run Rotella diesel oil. You'll find numerous threads here on this topic :thumbup:

welcome to the forum. "search" is your friend.

shell rotella t6.

have a great day.....

:iamwithstupid:

Thanks guys, sounds like some great ones to use for my bike! :thumbup:

hey Robski, you've got more than enough miles on your bike to switch to synthetic. I run Mobil 1 in all my vehicles, including the Ninja (Mobil 1 4t). I broke it in with Motul 3000 until about 2100 miles. The biggest difference I noticed is how quickly the oil light goes off since switching, I think the Mobil 1 flow rate is much better when cold compared with the Motul (which is a fantastic break-in oil). May as well stick with Mobil 1 in everything, eh? Especially when it's available at Walmart for a great price! Happy riding!

I was running Mobil1 4T up to 5,000 miles on my bike. I have now gone with Kawasaki's full syn oil and filter for about 1,000 miles now. It cost the same betweent h two brands. I know a lot of people here run Shell Rotella though.

:iamwithstupid:

really?

I use mobil 1 full synth as well, mostly because that is all the auto parts store carries in cycle oil.

hey Robski, you've got more than enough miles on your bike to switch to synthetic. I run Mobil 1 in all my vehicles, including the Ninja (Mobil 1 4t). I broke it in with Motul 3000 until about 2100 miles. The biggest difference I noticed is how quickly the oil light goes off since switching, I think the Mobil 1 flow rate is much better when cold compared with the Motul (which is a fantastic break-in oil). May as well stick with Mobil 1 in everything, eh? Especially when it's available at Walmart for a great price! Happy riding!

all the oil i have used has done this, light goes off fast after the change and the longer i go the longer it stays on, it makes a great reminder as to when to do an oil change. When i notice the light being on a long time it clicks that its getting close lol,

all the oil i have used has done this, light goes off fast after the change and the longer i go the longer it stays on, it makes a great reminder as to when to do an oil change. When i notice the light being on a long time it clicks that its getting close lol,

I never notice this on mine. I will have to check if mine does that. After break-in, I just change it every 2k now, but I have not switched to synthetic yet. I am still under 5k miles. But I doubt I will go to synthetic any time soon. It never made enough difference in the other bikes I have had, so I am not in a big hurry to switch.

it makes a big difference in this bike.....

I use 1.7 quarts of WD40 for my 250R :D

I never notice this on mine. I will have to check if mine does that. After break-in, I just change it every 2k now, but I have not switched to synthetic yet. I am still under 5k miles. But I doubt I will go to synthetic any time soon. It never made enough difference in the other bikes I have had, so I am not in a big hurry to switch.


my guess would be its not so much the oil having a better flow rate but more of the oil filter doing its job and getting dirty thus blocking the oil, i do mine every 3k or so.

its not the oil, it's how often you change it.

fzr has 20/50 mobil blend and the 250 has 15/40 mobil1

+1 for Mobil 1 fully synthetic.
Alot of my mates uses Motul but it's alot more expensive and I can't find it at any auto shops near me so I us Mobil 1 fully synt 15w50 mc oil.

I'm using kawasaki synthetic motorcycle oil. Just make sure to have plenty of time in the oil change process to thoroughly drain out all of the old stuff. I let my bike drain for more than a hour and it incidently needed a full 2qts to get it within normal range. My bike usually takes about 1.7qts.

I'm using Motul 5100 but I think it's semi-synthetic.

Hi Havok, yeah, I would normally think the same thing, but I did'nt change the filter this time, as it had less than a thousand miles on it. Just a drain and re-fill.

it makes a big difference in this bike.....

What improvements are you seeing on the 250 with Synthetic? I have had a number of ZX6s over the past 10yrs. The last two were using full synthetic oil. The prior owners had changed them over. I didn't really notice enough difference from the other ZX6s I had (with conventional oil) to make me want to rush to convert on this one to synthetic. But if there are some tangible improvements that you have noticed, I would be eager to learn what they are. Perhaps if they are compelling enough, I might change over too. Thanks

why not just try a synthetic and see for yourself? if you don't think it's worth it, change back.

Recently made the switch to Rotella T6 just to try it out for myself. I haven't noticed any difference in the bike from the Castrol motorcycle dino oil that was in there prior although my opinion might change once I put more kilometres on the Rotella.

why not just try a synthetic and see for yourself? if you don't think it's worth it, change back.

If the differences are so slight or intangible that they can't be quantified, I will stick with conventional. Like I said, the last two ZX6s I had were running Synthetic (the prior owners had already switched them) and I had heard from a number of people that you shouldn't switch back from Synthetic to Conventional. (I have also read since that it was a myth) I guess that is part of the problem, there are opinions all over the place and it is hard to separate the opinions from the facts. I have heard it can increase mileage, but I never saw any difference in gas mileage between the ZX6s running Conventional vs. Synthetic. That is something that I was able to personally see, but I am not deluding myself by thinking that is proof of anything. I know that it was not at all a scientific study and so the conclusion is suspect. What if the bike I had running conventional oil was just tuned a little better than the one running synthetic? The only scientific study (with actual data) I have been able to find on this was done by consumer reports back in 1996. Here is an excerpt of the detailed study by Consumer Reports. http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/xs11-info/articles/51-consumer-reportstruth-motor-oils-july-1996.html That study showed no significant difference in Synthetic vs. Conventional or between any brands of oil. But that was a long time ago and oils have probably (hopefully) changed significantly since then. If anyone can point me to a more recent scientific study, I would appreciate it. But the only studies that I have been able to find are not scientific and are being done by the oil companies peddling the oil. Talk about conflict of interest.

I use this Amsoil (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx?zo=1345085) motorcycle oil. With synthetic you can go longer between changes, but to me more important than using a synthetic oil is to use an oil specifically designed for motorcycles. Motorcycle oils are designed so that wet clutches work properly and also with additional anti-rust additives which is important for bikes that sit for long periods of time between rides and are parked outside in high humidity.

Of course most people don't keep a bike long enough for it to matter, but do it for the next couple owners. :)

In my own experience, I changed from the original factory oil to the Amsoil when the bike only had a couple hundred miles on it and I immediately noticed how the engine felt a little smoother. That's it - nothing dramatic, but I did feel it.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=55256&highlight=synthetic

and the related threads at the bottom of the page. also, more often then not, if you're arguing/debating something with kkim about our bikes......YOU'RE WRONG.

:)

This is actually linked in the Wiki here: http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

On a quick read through, the tests indicates that synthetics have more additives, are more heat stable and more resistant to sheering than dino oils. They also provide better numbers on the dyno tests. It's just food for thought and no one should rush out and buy a synthetic based on this article or any study. There are many variables that can't always be tested and results in a lab does not necessarily mean those results are perfectly mirrored on the street. As with any study, methodology and interpretation of results should always be considered when reading the findings. I won't sit here and say oil is oil but if you've been using dino then it's perfectly fine to continue using it.

and the related threads at the bottom of the page. also, more often then not, if you're arguing/debating something with kkim about our bikes......YOU'RE WRONG.

:)

um, sorry if I gave the impression of arguing or even debating the synthetic oil issue. I was simply suggesting he switch to synthetic for at least one oil change and see if there are enough difference for him to switch permanently. He was curious enough to ask... I figured he would be curious enough to at least try it out and decide for himself instead of listening to internet hacks on the subject. :D

I certainly don't want to get into the synthetic vs conventional oil fight again. :p

If he doesn't like it, he can always switch back to a conventional oil... simple as that.

This is actually linked in the Wiki here: http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html


Thanks Boom King. :thumbup: That is exactly the sort of information I was looking for and it is a pretty good article. I wish they had been able to afford a more complete test, but it does at least provide some data for making a more informed decision. Not only synthetic vs conventional but also the brand that is best for your own situation.

FYI... I also have no interest in debating what oil is best. I was just trying to find a study using impartial scientific testing, so I can make an informed decision what I will put in my bike. Call me crazy, but I would rather do a little research than try a half dozen different brands/types of oil in my bike, but to each his own, I guess. :D

um, sorry if I gave the impression of arguing or even debating the synthetic oil issue. I was simply suggesting he switch to synthetic for at least one oil change and see if there are enough difference for him to switch permanently. He was curious enough to ask... I figured he would be curious enough to at least try it out and decide for himself instead of listening to internet hacks on the subject. :D

I certainly don't want to get into the synthetic vs conventional oil fight again. :p

If he doesn't like it, he can always switch back to a conventional oil... simple as that.

That surprises me. I have always heard that once u switch to synthetic there's no going back. Meaning that you can't just simply change back to conventional oil. :confused:

That surprises me. I have always heard that once u switch to synthetic there's no going back. Meaning that you can't just simply change back to conventional oil. :confused:

why not?

why not?

Good question. I wish I knew the answer but never bothered to ask simply because I wouldn't have understood it.

there is some truth to it... as I understand it, when synthetics were first introduced, they didn't have the seal swell rate figured in correct. in high mileage cars, if one were switching from conventional to synthetic, the synthetics would clean the debris that the conventional oils left and due to the slightly less amounts of seal swell and the condition of the seals, some cars would develop oil leaks from the slightly worn seals.

today, they have the synthetics zeroed in well and there are no issues from seals "shrinking" due to seal swell formulations.

when talking about a newer vehicle like the new gens, with relatively low mileage, it's safe to switch back and forth if one were so inclined.

if you trust the oil companies, here's a link to a similar question...
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Switching_Synthetic_Motor_Oil.aspx

if you want to talk oil, this is a very informative forum to join...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Switching_Synthetic_Motor_Oil.aspx

according to mobil, it doesn't hurt to switch. but i also dont know why.

Ok maybe it's might be just in my head but I reckon the engine is running alot tighter. It's easier to start on the cold mornings. Changing gears is alot easier and quieter and lastly I used to get around 250km on a full tank but now I get 300km on a full tank running at RON91.

Is that a normal milage for a full tank?

now I get 300km on a full tank running at RON91.

Is that a normal milage for a full tank?

either there's a hole in your gas tank or you have it WOT quite a bit. my ninja gets about 60-65mpg depending on driving. (well it drops to about 30 or 40 in the canyons...)

Ok maybe it's might be just in my head but I reckon the engine is running alot tighter. It's easier to start on the cold mornings. Changing gears is alot easier and quieter and lastly I used to get around 250km on a full tank but now I get 300km on a full tank running at RON91.

Is that a normal milage for a full tank?

Are you filling the tank all the way??
Can someone find that link to that disscussion?? I dont feel like looking for it.

Are you filling the tank all the way??
Can someone find that link to that disscussion?? I dont feel like looking for it.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13536

either there's a hole in your gas tank or you have it WOT quite a bit. my ninja gets about 60-65mpg depending on driving. (well it drops to about 30 or 40 in the canyons...)

Definately there's no holes in my gas tank. I'm only getting around 190miles on the full tank. Well I think the calculations are correct. You guys still uses imperial measurement so I'll have to convert it.

I get 300km avg for full tank which is 18L but I never let it run dry.
300km = 187.5miles on 18L/3.7854(L/Gallon) = 4.755 Gallon.
187.5/4.755= 39.4 miles per gallon.

I usually sit on ~6000 - 7000rpm. Is it too high of rpm to be sitting on? I give it a hand full every now and then to dodge the traffic.
Where I live people here are antimotorcycle and anti cyclists and most of the time they'll try to cut you off so you have to ride very aggresively and defensively. This is the town of bogans.

your problem is your method of calculation of fuel filled. use what the pump says, not what you think/assume the tank will accept when empty.

Yea don't use the tank capacity, 4.755(4.8) gallons, for your base calculation,, if you read what you wrote in words, you just said you get 187miles for every 4.8 gallons, or a full tank. But the truth is you get 187 miles til you hit empty, the amount of gas you put in at the gas station is how much gas 187 miles consumed. So if you had to put in 3.5 gallons after driving 187 miles you final calculation would read. 187.5/3.5= 53.6mpg

When the needle reads empty there could be anywhere from .5 to almost 2 gallons left in the tank, depending on how much your gas guage sucks :)
Posted via Mobile Device

Yea don't use the tank capacity, 4.755(4.8) gallons, for your base calculation,, if you read what you wrote in words, you just said you get 187miles for every 4.8 gallons, or a full tank. But the truth is you get 187 miles til you hit empty, the amount of gas you put in at the gas station is how much gas 187 miles consumed. So if you had to put in 3.5 gallons after driving 187 miles you final calculation would read. 187.5/3.5= 53.6mpg

When the needle reads empty there could be anywhere from .5 to almost 2 gallons left in the tank, depending on how much your gas guage sucks :)
Posted via Mobile Device

That's a good point. I was just going by assumption that when the gauge hit E (empty) it has atleast 1L left in the tank so going by 17L consumption.
I'll fill it up tonight after work and see many L it needed.
I always fill it up just below the lip. So I'll do that a few times to get the avg.


I called the dealer and they reckon it may be running a bit too rich. I really don't want to take off the fairings and I don't know how to adjust so it'll become abit leaner.
I have service manual but can I adjust it without taking off engine covers and mess around with shin and needles etc.
As you can see I don't know anything about engines. I just learned how to service the bike a few weeks ago and did my first time ever oil and filter change a couple weeks ago.
I got the bike serviced with the dealer at 1000km (600mile) first service but since then I had already change the oil and filter at 3000km (1875miles) and I rather save the money and do the minor servicing myself. I think the next service schedule is at 6000km (3750) but I think it's only minor service. Should I change the oil and filter at the schedule service since the manual book said to service the bike at 1000km, 6000km, 12000km (major like chaecking valve clearance etc.).

The next question is should I change the oil filter since I'm running fully synthetic oil? I look at the oil through that glass and it's quite brown even though it has only done a little over 1500km. Yes I drained the old dino oil for 90mins and I change the filter to brand new filter.

I feel like giving it all up and sell it and upgrade to bigger bike and never Kawa again. Such poor workmanship. I am noticing rust spot on the side stand base, on the steering bar bolts and exhaust bolts etc.
I don't even ride in the rain and every time I was it I make sure it's dry and I even go to the extend of getting the hair dryer out and blow drying the nick and cranny.

I wouldnt run the oil for the reccomended 7.5k miles, I'd change it every 3000(5000km) or less. Personally I swap at 2k miles or less(~3200km) but I run my bike hard all day. You can't change the filter without draining the oil, your filter should last as long as your oil. Don't use fram filters. The oil looking dirty means it is doing its job and keeping the dirt off the engine parts.

I don't know aboutyour rust spots :s
Posted via Mobile Device

I use 1.7 quarts of WD40 for my 250R :D

How many cans is that?
:happy20::happy40::jumping40:

I wouldnt run the oil for the reccomended 7.5k miles, I'd change it every 3000(5000km) or less. Personally I swap at 2k miles or less(~3200km) but I run my bike hard all day. You can't change the filter without draining the oil, your filter should last as long as your oil. Don't use fram filters. The oil looking dirty means it is doing its job and keeping the dirt off the engine parts.

I don't know aboutyour rust spots :s

Yeah that makes sense. If you run your bike hard all day it only makes sense if you change it more often than recommended. I think I'll change it again at 6000k so that'll be around 3000km since my last oil/filter change. Would I need to check anything else apart from that like spark plug etc.. Sorry I'm not too mechnically minded but everyday is a learning curve for me.

As for the rust spots I see a rusty stain trail off the bolts on the exhaust and at the end of the stand where the water usualy could sit. I always run my engine and go for a good long ride after every wash and dry. Usually I use a nylon scourer during wash over the screw and bolt where it's looks like rusty stain and they come off usually but a few weeks later I would see the stain trail again as if the water driped off the screw and and dried and discoloured into rust colour. If that makes any sense.

Are the Hi Flo filters any good. I'm in Perth Australia and it's like a village city and we are a few decades behind so we can't get alot of things here. I rang around for Wax filters and the shops have never heard of the brand.
I finally found a store that sells Mobil 1 fully synthetic but I couldn't find 10w40 so instead I went for 15w50 which has the same cold starting temp and min temp never drops below 3 on the coldest winter's night.

Oh and as for the fuel consumption I filled up today and I got 5.09L/100km so that mean I'm geting 46.5 miles/gallon

Would I need to check anything else apart from that like spark plug etc.. Sorry I'm not too mechnically minded but everyday is a learning curve for me.

always trust your MOM.

On what? When to change the oil? The only time I'll trust her on that is when I need to change the oil in the deep fryer.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10577

On what? When to change the oil? The only time I'll trust her on that is when I need to change the oil in the deep fryer.

MOM = motorcycle owner's manual. it has the same (it is the same, right?) schedule in it as what kkim just posted.

you should always read your MOM before stepping on the bike for the first time.

MOM = motorcycle owner's manual. it has the same (it is the same, right?) schedule in it as what kkim just posted.



yes

Ok, I need to change my oil soon and I want to switch to synthetic. I don't believe the po used synthetic, but who cares because I will. I found out which filter I would need from Kkims DIY - Oil Change (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10780&highlight=oil+filter). Unfortunately no one seems to carry the correct filters locally so I may have to order one from online. Now on to the main problem, I went to Auto zone and found some rotella t6 full synthetic like this: http://www.can-amtalk.com/forums/uploads/monthly_08_2010/post-6898-065094000%201280654660.jpg

It doesn't say that it's motorcycle specific and that is why I didn't buy it. Is this the same rotella t6 you guys talked about? They have the mobil 1 racing 4t synthetic ,or w/e it's called, but it would cost me $10 / quart when I can get a gallon of the rotella t6 for $25. Price isn't a factor when it comes to what will perform best in my bike. I got confused because the rotella t6 doesn't say it's motorcycle specific and the mobil 1 does. Will this work in my bike?

yep, that's the stuff. :thumbup:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands

yep, that's the stuff. :thumbup:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands

Kkim, thanks so much! You really help the ninjette community a lot and I just want to let you know it's very much appreciated. :thumbup:

P.s. You dah man! :cool:

Ok, I need to change my oil soon and I want to switch to synthetic. I don't believe the po used synthetic, but who cares because I will. I found out which filter I would need from Kkims DIY - Oil Change (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10780&highlight=oil+filter). Unfortunately no one seems to carry the correct filters locally so I may have to order one from online. Now on to the main problem, I went to Auto zone and found some rotella t6 full synthetic like this:
It doesn't say that it's motorcycle specific and that is why I didn't buy it. Is this the same rotella t6 you guys talked about? They have the mobil 1 racing 4t synthetic ,or w/e it's called, but it would cost me $10 / quart when I can get a gallon of the rotella t6 for $25. Price isn't a factor when it comes to what will perform best in my bike. I got confused because the rotella t6 doesn't say it's motorcycle specific and the mobil 1 does. Will this work in my bike?

I know you got your answer, but yes. That's the stuff. Used to run it in my ZX-10, and run it now in the 250. It's taken a few hundred miles after the initial oil change, but the shifting is making noticeable improvements. The stuff is awesome...I'm a believer.

cody,

wix filters are availble at napa. rebranded as NPS part #ps4941

I know you got your answer, but yes. That's the stuff. Used to run it in my ZX-10, and run it now in the 250. It's taken a few hundred miles after the initial oil change, but the shifting is making noticeable improvements. The stuff is awesome...I'm a believer.

Great to know, I actually picked up a gallon Omw home from work tonight.:)
cody,

wix filters are availble at napa. rebranded as NPS part #ps4941

I went to 4 places today, first was napa, which was closed. It seems like our napa is closed 24 hours a day here because I haven't seen them open at all in the last month :rolleyes:. I got their hours and I'm hoping to go get the filter tomorrow. Second was autozone which has the Rotella T6 that I bought; but not my oil filter. Wally world didn't have the filter and neither did advanced auto parts. Napa here I come...please be open.

Try Pepboys. I picked up a small stock there.

Try Pepboys. I picked up a small stock there.

It's official, not a single store within at least 40 miles has the right oil filter(literally). I don't think there's a pepboys within 1.5 hours from my house so that's out of the question.

Do you have O'Reilly Auto Parts stores in your area (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/fi/storelocator.oap)? In St. Louis, that's the only place locally that has the Wix filters and even then it seems like only 1 location in the area actually stocks them. I'm just lucky that the 1 location is only 6 miles from my office so I can run out at lunch and pick them up; I just always get a couple each time I go since I've been changing the oil so frequently.

We even have Napa stores here but they don't carry the rebranded Wix filters at all, just there cheaper version.

I just did my 4th oil change at 1500 miles, next one @ 2000 will be to the Rotella T6 and then I'll be on the normal oil-change schedule per my MOM.

Preforming my first oil change. I looked at the guide and it says i need 10w40 oil.

I want to use fully Synthetic as its suppose to be best. What i wondering is whats a good brand to use, also how much would i expect to pay for it? I dont want to be ripped of thats all. Im in the uk btw.

I also bought a K&N 401n air filter

The bike love's some Shell Rotella T Synthetic SAE 5W-40 fully synthetic

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-Synthetic-5W-40-Motor-Oil-1-Gal/14958681

You mean oil filter 401:thumbup:


http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10780


Good luck hope some UK peeps check in :cool:

Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic here also, really good oil to choose.

Thx for the replies. I can defo use 5w40 instead of 10w40?

I dont have a clue lol. I just follow instructions. Also my bikes the uk fi model not carb. Will it make a differencE?

I'm no expert on oil, but couldn't find 1 single 10w-40 synth oil (I know they out there, just none at my local wal-mart)....and so many ppl here run this oil w/o issues I went ahead and did too.

reabo ALOT of people use this oil not just the ninjette people Im sure its one of the very best oil out there for the 250

EsrTek try ur trucker stops since this is oil is more focused on them


MEaf5ES6Xmg

it doesnt matter what kind of oil it is if you change it often enough.

I think i found Shell Rotella T Synthetic SAE 5W-40 fully synthetic.

However, it has a list of car on it, no bikes. Is this right? Also its about £26. that sound right?

That's right its not listed for motorcycles but God the ninja lovs it :nod:

Rotella T6 is the right one, but that price seems high..cost me about $5 per qt which should be about 10quid or side of pond.

Rotella T6 is the right one, but that price seems high..cost me about $5 per qt which should be about 10quid or side of pond.

He's probably looking at the 5L jug. That's the only one I could find after checking 6 stores. Cost me $37 Canadian.

i just use castrol from advance auto, its like $9 a quart, but you only need 2 and dont really use the all of it

That's right its not listed for motorcycles but God the ninja lovs it :nod:

The newer Rotella T6 does have the JASO-MA compliance written on the label. So it is official.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T

Glad to see my Ninja can take T6. I have a bunch of gals leftover from my EVO

i just use castrol from advance auto, its like $9 a quart, but you only need 2 and dont really use the all of it

Castrol GTX? Is that any good?

The reason I ask is because I just used 2 quarts of it to flush my oil before putting in the Rotella T6 - it was on sale 2 for $8 at Wal-Mart, the cheapest they had so I went with it for the flush.

Also, did you get one specific for motorcycles? I didn't realize until after I used it but the Castrol GTX I got was energy conserving which is not good at all for your wet clutch and other parts inside. (will cause premature wear and tear)

Luckily I only used it for a flush so it was only in for 20 mins. You can check the back of your bottle...

http://bolty.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/no_energy_conserving.png

Castrol GTX? Is that any good?

The reason I ask is because I just used 2 quarts of it to flush my oil before putting in the Rotella T6 - it was on sale 2 for $8 at Wal-Mart, the cheapest they had so I went with it for the flush.

Also, did you get one specific for motorcycles? I didn't realize until after I used it but the Castrol GTX I got was energy conserving which is not good at all for your wet clutch and other parts inside. (will cause premature wear and tear)

Luckily I only used it for a flush so it was only in for 20 mins. You can check the back of your bottle...

http://bolty.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/no_energy_conserving.png
I use the motorcyle specific castrol

I use the motorcyle specific castrol

Good stuff. :thumbup: Just thought I'd check.

I have Royal purple 10w-40 Synthetic waiting for me at my work. Anyone else use this stuff on their bike?

Ok, i ended up buying castrol edge 5w30, fully synthetic. I can use this?

5w30? :confused:

****... ive bought the wrong one havn't i.... :(

Its defo 5w30.

Ok, i ended up buying castrol edge 5w30, fully synthetic. I can use this?

castrol edge is car oil, you want the oil that castrol makes for motorcycles

Im confused. Comments above say as long as its 5w40 its alright, even if its for a car. Can i get away with 5w30 though?

Rotella T6 has the right additives for the wet clutch.

I'm not sure your castrol is right...

the other thing is i would not use any oil with less than a 40 weight in a ninja.

I use Repsol Full Synthetic Race oil..... (No one laugh at me... I personally chose it.)

I used Amsoil 10w-40 on my first oil change and finally found a gallon jug of Rotella T6 this week and will be using that for my next 2 oil changes.

I use Repsol Full Synthetic Race oil..... (No one laugh at me... I personally chose it.)

how much per quart?

Rotella T6 has the right additives for the wet clutch.

I'm not sure your castrol is right...

the other thing is i would not use any oil with less than a 40 weight in a ninja.

I found that receipt (thank god, it cost me £35). I'll try return it a look elsewhere for oil like a bike shop :P

how much per quart?

I have no idea hahah I get the 4 Liter Racing one for like 60. plus tax.

I wouldn't push using Rotella T-6 past 4k miles. I would say change it at 2-3k miles. I'll find out for sure when I send off my next sample at 3k miles to get tested.

I wouldn't push using Rotella T-6 past 4k miles. I would say change it at 2-3k miles. I'll find out for sure when I send off my next sample at 3k miles to get tested.

About how long did it take for your oil kit to come in from Blackstone? I just placed a request for one and plan on doing an oil change the week after next, it'll be with Amsoil at around 3.2k miles.

About how long did it take for your oil kit to come in from Blackstone? I just placed a request for one and plan on doing an oil change the week after next, it'll be with Amsoil at around 3.2k miles.

It took about a week. They'll email you the report as well as send you a paper copy of the report when it's done.

Preforming my first oil change. I looked at the guide and it says i need 10w40 oil.

I want to use fully Synthetic as its suppose to be best. What i wondering is whats a good brand to use, also how much would i expect to pay for it? I dont want to be ripped of thats all. Im in the uk btw.

I also bought a K&N 401n air filter

Probably a bit late to answer, but you want a good brand (Castrol, Motul ect.) semi or fully synth bike specific 10w40 oil

Bike oils are designed for wet clutch, car oils have detergents & friction reduction additives in them which can cause the clutch to slip.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/4-stroke-oils
This link should give you an idea of prices.

And Shell Rotella is not available on this side of the Atlantic.

Sorry to post again, really sure this is the right one onow, but i want to ask, incase i mess my expensive bike up.

This one is 4t 10w40 castrol power1 racing fully synthetic

thats okright, it for motorcycles aswell.

power1_racing (http://www.castrolmoto.com/en/products/power1_racing.php) If that is the product you have then yes it is for motorcycles.

Sweet, did the oil change along with the filter, everything seems alright...for now. Ive noticed when i turn the engine on and look at the gauage, it empties, is that surpose to happen? But whewn the engine is off, its at normal level.

Sweet, did the oil change along with the filter, everything seems alright...for now. Ive noticed when i turn the engine on and look at the gauage, it empties, is that surpose to happen? But whewn the engine is off, its at normal level.

That is normal for the sight glass to empty while the engine is running.

Oil is cycling through the engine via oil pump when running. Once shutoff the oil is not being pumped through the engine resulting in it settling and being able to read the level in the sight glass.

I have an 09 with just over 6,000 miles and have been using regular Kawi 10w40 oil in it and considering upping to synthetic. I came upon a good deal for some Motul 7100 (10w40) 100% Synthese oil for a good deal. Are any of you guys running this in your ninjette and if so, what differences have you felt since upgrading? Thanks in advance for any replies.

I have never used that one.

Just be aware that energy conserving oils could damage your clutch.

Check this link:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands

I run motul v300. The best they sell. You won't notice any differences except when you pull the engine apart; you don't even need gloves cos its so clean.

Now considering that I still bought some more to put in.

Motul is one of the best brands you can get, so as long as it's a bike specific oil you should be fine.

Like motul but switched to rotella because of the cost

I used to run Motul 300v sport 4t in my KLX, but at $70+ a gallon it got to be too much. Noticed a significant increase in acceleration due to the empty wallet though!

I now run Delo 400 SAE30 in the KLX and Delvac 1300 in the Ninja. I am going to try the Delo in the Ninja this spring.

I went ahead and picked up a few quartz of it so'll be giving it a try. It doesn't say anything about Energy Conserving so I guess it's safe to use. No I just need a some time to do the oil change. Thanks for the replies guys!

I've been using 7100 for 2 years now. Seems to be working ok.

I've been using 7100 for 2 years now. Seems to be working ok.

Did you notice any differences in performance after switching?

I've been using Repsol racing synth 10w40 for the last 17k miles.. about $18/qt. Been working great for me.

only use Silkoline COMP 4 10W-40 now

Before:

Motorcycle Dealer:
Motul 3100 4t break-in oil - engine sounded rough - 0 - 1000kms :(

Motorcycle Dealer:
Motul 5100 4t lubricant based on Ester-Technology - sounded like gudgin rattle. The bike was just not happy at all. 1000 - 1500kms :mad:

Me:
Silkoline COMP 4 10W-40 since 1500kms the bike sounds smooth like it should with good clutch action. :thumbup:

Really want to try Silkoline Pro 4 Range Oil :D

With the second Dealer service coming up :(

See what happens after the service :cool:

only use Silkoline COMP 4 10W-40 now

Before:

Motorcycle Dealer:
Motul 3100 4t break-in oil - engine sounded rough - 0 - 1000kms :(

Motorcycle Dealer:
Motul 5100 4t lubricant based on Ester-Technology - sounded like gudgin rattle. The bike was just not happy at all. 1000 - 1500kms :mad:

Me:
Silkoline COMP 4 10W-40 since 1500kms the bike sounds smooth like it should with good clutch action. :thumbup:

Really want to try Silkoline Pro 4 Range Oil :D

With the second Dealer service coming up :(

See what happens after the service :cool:

Bring 2l of Silkoline Pro 4 with ya & hand it to the dealer, tell them that's what you want put in it.

if i put motul v300 in my engines, will they still blow up?

the answer is yes. yes, they will still blow up.

I switched to it and haven't noticed the difference but I do like the "green" double ester which defines the oil level very noticeable/readable/etc . We raffled quite a few of them last round in our races.

Putting an oil with a better co efficiant of friction will make an engine last longer. its common sense. Less friction creates less wear on your clearances.

Also, Alex you have no idea that your engine would have blown if you had put motul v300 in there over another oil because there is no way to prove this. period.

I have heard that Amsoil is good. I put in Amsoil 10W-40 about 1000 miles ago. Not sure if it makes any difference for regular everyday commuting.

Putting an oil with a better co efficiant of friction will make an engine last longer. its common sense. Less friction creates less wear on your clearances.

Also, Alex you have no idea that your engine would have blown if you had put motul v300 in there over another oil because there is no way to prove this. period.

the friction coefficient isn't the only factor. there are tons and tons of differences between oils. like the amount of lithium in the oil as a 'last resort' stop gap in cases of unexpected knocks or what not. im not even going to get into the friction demands from the clutch which would easily slip and burn itself through if you were to put in an oil with too low of a friction coefficient.


also, it had v300 in it when it blew the transmission, and again when it blew the crank. i dont use motul anymore because its too expensive.

the friction coefficient isn't the only factor. there are tons and tons of differences between oils. like the amount of lithium in the oil as a 'last resort' stop gap in cases of unexpected knocks or what not. im not even going to get into the friction demands from the clutch which would easily slip and burn itself through if you were to put in an oil with too low of a friction coefficient.

I didn't want to get into that. Too many things to cover when it comes to oil.

also, it had v300 in it when it blew the transmission, and again when it blew the crank. i dont use motul anymore because its too expensive.

Now obviously just because you put good oil into your engine doesn't mean it aint ever going to s*** itself. Oil isn't the reason behind every failure. But good oil may have lessened the damage or prevented it for a period of time. Is that worth the extra cash? who knows.

Yes I agree that it is expensive and I am considering a change because clean oil is more important than quality/price, changing every 1300 miles aint cheap.

Not sure if this helps but I recently switched to my bikes to http://www.cyclegear.com/_static/webupload/730/2_web1001317_3.jpg
Coupled with a KN filter , I can say my bike feels smoother. Can't say I feel that difference in my car. Maybe cause I don't rev it to 13k....

Hey guys. i'm new to the forums. I just got a 2010 Special Edition late last summer and i'm ready for my first oil change. i'm sure this has been addressed a million times, but the search function doesnt seem to be working on this site.

My question is whether CAM2 SuperPro Plus Synthetic Blend 10W-40 is safe to use in the bike? The service manual calls for API SE, SF, or SG. This oil is API SM which is newer than those ratings. Since its designed for automotive engines, I just figured I would ask you opinion before putting it in. Not sure if I need to go fully synthetic or go with something designed for motorcycles since its much higher revving than a car. thanks for the help.

Some info here:

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil

It would likely be fine, as long as it's not marked as an "energy-conserving" oil. Synthetic or not, those that are intended for energy conserving have additives that can cause clutch slippage.

I added "oil" as a 3-letter word that should be searchable, but it isn't working as of yet until I rebuild the index. In the meantime, if you click on the google search option in that same pull-down menu, there are no such limitations.

great. thanks for the help.

yea i was searching oil and it wasnt working. i'll try the google search option next time.

Just make sure the API circle label does not identify it as "energy conserving" or your clutch will slip.

The image below shows what the label looks like. It is NOT a recommendation of specific oil for the Ninjette.

http://shaftdrive.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/api-circle.jpg

The topic of oil has been beat to death on every motorcycle forum on the net. If you look hard enough you'll find every possible point of view vehemently defended by someone, somewhere. Wading through it all is enough to make my hair hurt and I don't have any.

Bottom line: You will not go wrong if you follow manufacturer recommendations. That's the simplest, shortest answer and trumps all discussions of natural vs. synthetic, cost, brand, etc. etc. Look in the book. Do what it says. Simple.

Does that mean that some oils are not better than others? No, it does not. It simply means that if you do what Kawasaki tells you to do, you won't destroy your engine.

I will note that a lot of folks like Shell Rotella T, a synthetic marketed for diesel engines which is inexpensive (blue 1-gallon jug, available at Wal-Mart).

from what i'm reading, it seems like it doesnt really matter what oil I use as long as it meets the spec requirement and I change it often enough. I will probably do less than 1000 miles in a riding season so I'm sure even the cheap stuff will hold up. I'll just change it every year as long as im under 1500 for the season. thanks for the help

Change it every year anyway even if you don't ride much. Used oil is acidic. This is important.

My standard winterization routine:

- Fill tank, put ethanol-friendly fuel stabilizer in, go ride for 20 minutes to get the stable fuel into the carbs and warm up the oil.

- Change oil and filter.

- Put bike on stands front and rear

- Put LOWER THE KICK STAND, STUPID! sign over ignition switch so I don't drop the bike the following spring

- Let some air out of tires

- Plug in the battery tender

- Cover the bike

- Have a cup of cocoa

In the spring all I have to do is pump the tires up to spec, take it off the stands and go.

If you want to get anal about it you can also pull the plugs and spray some fogging oil in the cylinders. If you live where your winter hiatus is long, that's a pretty good idea.

- Put LOWER THE KICK STAND, STUPID! sign over ignition switch so I don't drop the bike the following spring


Why not just leave the stand down, even if its on stands...?

Because then I'll bark my shins on it over the winter. The bike lives in my workshop.

Just one more thing I don't have to think about months after the fact.

OK - 3-letter searching works at this point. People can search on "oil" to their heart's content; the problem is it will bring up a million threads. :)

I will note that a lot of folks like Shell Rotella T, a synthetic marketed for diesel engines which is inexpensive (blue 1-gallon jug, available at Wal-Mart).

A lot of peeps here also recommended the Shell Rotella T6 - i called a local shop, the closest shop next to me is a honda/suzuki dealership. They said they do not sell the shell and asks why i wanted non bike specific oil. They also said it was meant for diseal engines and if i wanted it i would have to go to like walmart or meijer that have it cheap. I saw in Jiggles DIY that he uses it aswell.

They recommended mobile 1 full synthetic and they also had a Honda full synthetic (i did not catch the name). I use the honda GN4 (i think thats it - regular conventional oil currently). I know these oil debates can go on forever and i know remember what you said earlier something along the lines of if your woried about it stick with OEM cause that wont hurt the engine - but i still need some light shed. Disel engine oil is fine for our wet clutch without those JASo and other ratings? Just want to make sure I am not one ruining the bike in anyway shape or form for long term effects and two decreasing performance.

I just bought a ninja 2009! And I want to switch it to synthetic as of not its conventional. It has about 6300 miles! Please help me in which one should I choose! And what brand and number. I am a newbie. Thank you

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3253C/large/8120031_sll_5079769_pri_larg.jpg

This is what I, and a lot of members here use.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTr0xAhcYk0EZBtG1Sa-njOtCgRSiZPCXrCq9SP7NAhUadGpRTQvw

Once I started using this oil I never looked back. I use it in both my bikes and my truck.

Can I use the mobil 1 racing 4t 10w-40? Which one is better?

Neither here nor there on which is better. However there is huge difference in price.

You can, but for me the extra cost isn't justified. Motorcycle specific oils are mainly used because of the wet clutch on our bikes. Some oils can cause clutch slippage.

Shell Rotella T6 causes no problems with the clutch. It's used by a lot of bikers, not just members here.

Oh okay thank you! One question, after I drain the old oil out and put in the new synthetic oil! What should I do! Is their a specific way I should ride the bike? Like at high revs? Or keep them low?

Nope, just ride as you normally would. Some have done oil changes right before track time others just before their normal commute, the result is the 99% the same.

:lol: there's no break-in procedure for oil. Just wait for it to get up to temp then ride like you always do.

Remember: no matter what oil you choose, the most important part is to change regularly and change often. Your bike will thank you.

This is the greatest myth of the 21st century. Engine oil was engine oil, it was for engines, then it got called bike oil and car oil, look at weights not what it's "for" as that's a misnomer.

There are a lot of myths when it comes to oil, and that's what most of them are "myths".

I found the Mobil 1 faq (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Oils_FAQs.aspx) site to have a lot of useful knowledge. I discovered it after a friend and I were having a heated discussion about "ZDDP".

Okay thank you! And is it necessary to change the filter also? If so what number should I get? As of now a k and n is installed

Might not be necessary to change the filter, but since they only cost a few bucks there's no reason not to.

I just buy fram filters for my bike. I can get them at most local auto parts stores. Advance Auto Parts is usually where I get them.

/merged with similar "which synth oil?" thread

Might not be necessary to change the filter, but since they only cost a few bucks there's no reason not to.

I just buy fram filters for my bike. I can get them at most local auto parts stores. Advance Auto Parts is usually where I get them.

is there a specific size that I should buy? Or are they the same?

Fram: CH6012 But that's for the pre-gen. I dunno if the one for the new bike is the same or not.

Alternatively if you have a local stealership close buy you can get one from there. That's what I did until I learned I could use the Fram one. The Kawasaki on wasn't much more expensive though, plus you would know for sure that it would fit.

/merged a couple more "which synth oil" threads :thumbup:

i personally like amsoil 10w 40 synthetic

My local auto stores sells Mobile 1 MC synthetic 10-40 for $8 cheaper per quart. :eek:

I have always used Mobile1. I like it. Oil comes out still looking good after 3,000 - 5,000 miles. I change it yearly regardless of miles. I always change the filter as well regardless of miles.

You can't judge if an oil is still "good" solely by how it looks.

An oil analysis would provide information in how the engine is wearing and the overall condition of the oil and its protective qualities.

This is the greatest myth of the 21st century. Engine oil was engine oil, it was for engines, then it got called bike oil and car oil, look at weights not what it's "for" as that's a misnomer.

Really? Last I checked my cars transmission uses valvoline dexVI synthetic oil and the motor uses castrol 10w30 synthetic oil. Can't interchange the two.
My bikes use a bike oil made to work for both, which is why I use castrol synthetic 4T oil. Just want make sure someone doesn't misread what you are saying and ruins the bikes clutches.

Engine oil for cars is not going to ruin your bikes clutch. It's just not.

So you mean we are all wrong ? And we should re-write the ninjette wikis?

Show me where it says on a bottle of Shell Rotella T6 that it's made for motorcycles. It's not, it's made for diesel trucks. Yet it's what many members here and on other moto forums use.

I haven't read the wiki here, because the one at n250rc is much better, but I'm guessing it says not to use energy conserving oils because they can cause clutch slippage.

You can believe what you want though, and keep spending $10 for a quart of oil while I spend less than $22 for 5 quarts.

Can I use the mobil 1 racing 4t 10w-40? Which one is better?

I went with the Mobile One 4T...I wanted the Rotella but the big auto store was out of the quarts and I did'nt feel like running all over looking for it.

If the API label says energy conserving it will make your clutch slip.

Really? Last I checked my cars transmission uses valvoline dexVI synthetic oil and the motor uses castrol 10w30 synthetic oil. Can't interchange the two.
My bikes use a bike oil made to work for both, which is why I use castrol synthetic 4T oil. Just want make sure someone doesn't misread what you are saying and ruins the bikes clutches.

Transmission oil is not engine oil, the clue is in the name "transimission oil" not "engine oil". i didn't say "oil is oil" I said engine oil is engine oil, assuming you're talking of ATF.

Some engine oil has to deal with higher compressions, higher temperatures and greater frictions, motorbikes and diesel engines share the shame conditions, hence why rotella t whatever is often used in bikes.

Only exception would be two stroke oil.

Around here, the bottles of Rotella T6 states that it meets JASO MA requirements right on the label. Guess it's riding season again once these oil threads start popping up on the regular :thumbup:

Apparently riding season needs to start soon before these divas need a snickers bar....

In Aussie for shell motorcycle oil

Shell Advance Ultra - 10w40 or 15w50 - full synthetic
Shell Advance AX7 - 10w40 or 15w50 - semi synthetic
Shell Advance AX5 - 15w40 - mineral

Shell Rimula R6 M

Transmission oil is not engine oil, the clue is in the name "transimission oil" not "engine oil". i didn't say "oil is oil" I said engine oil is engine oil, assuming you're talking of ATF.

Some engine oil has to deal with higher compressions, higher temperatures and greater frictions, motorbikes and diesel engines share the shame conditions, hence why rotella t whatever is often used in bikes.

Only exception would be two stroke oil.
Thanks for agreeing. I'm happy you see how your post was misleading. That's why I used my car as an example to explain.
You guys can run the engine oil made by rotella as it meets the same standards required by ours bikes manufacturers.
However , it's not safe to assume oil is oil except for weight.

I'm not going to save a few dollars for some oil when I can buy something formulated just for our bikes.
Also lots of new people read these threads and might become confused by misinformation.

Show me where it says on a bottle of Shell Rotella T6 that it's made for motorcycles. It's not, it's made for diesel trucks. Yet it's what many members here and on other moto forums use.

I haven't read the wiki here, because the one at n250rc is much better, but I'm guessing it says not to use energy conserving oils because they can cause clutch slippage.

You can believe what you want though, and keep spending $10 for a quart of oil while I spend less than $22 for 5 quarts.


Congrats on saving a few bucks man. No problems here though either.

Thanks for agreeing. I'm happy you see how your post was misleading. That's why I used my car as an example to explain.
You guys can run the engine oil made by rotella as it meets the same standards required by ours bikes manufacturers.
However , it's not safe to assume oil is oil except for weight.

I'm not going to save a few dollars for some oil when I can buy something formulated just for our bikes.
Also lots of new people read these threads and might become confused by misinformation.

I never said oil is oil, i said engine oil is engine oil, what part of your thick skull isn't letting that through?

I couldn't give a toss what your car uses, and I don't give a damn what trasmission oil, it's not engine oil, the same as light machine oil isn't engine oil, and olive oil isn't engine oil, do you understand what I am saying?

Nobody is getting confused, and if anybody is confusing anybody it's you with the drivvel that's spouting from your vacuous mind.

So, to phrase this in a manner that I hope you understand, yet sincerely doubt you'll bother to, all engine oil formulated for a four stroke engine, be it diesel, petrol, motorcycle, etc, will work just fine in your bike so long as it's of the correct weighting, to use an anaology, you can wear boots, shoes, loafers, trainers, sneakers, ballet shoes, so long as they fit you.

What is infinatly more important then the apparent shock horror, dissmisal and arogance you seem to display at the idea of using diesel oil in a motorcycle is the frequency of which you change said oil.

So, thanks for not agreeing with me.

I never said oil is oil, i said engine oil is engine oil, what part of your thick skull isn't letting that through?

I couldn't give a toss what your car uses, and I don't give a damn what trasmission oil, it's not engine oil, the same as light machine oil isn't engine oil, and olive oil isn't engine oil, do you understand what I am saying?

Nobody is getting confused, and if anybody is confusing anybody it's you with the drivvel that's spouting from your vacuous mind.

So, to phrase this in a manner that I hope you understand, yet sincerely doubt you'll bother to, all engine oil formulated for a four stroke engine, be it diesel, petrol, motorcycle, etc, will work just fine in your bike so long as it's of the correct weighting, to use an anaology, you can wear boots, shoes, loafers, trainers, sneakers, ballet shoes, so long as they fit you.

What is infinatly more important then the apparent shock horror, dissmisal and arogance you seem to display at the idea of using diesel oil in a motorcycle is the frequency of which you change said oil.

So, thanks for not agreeing with me.
Your post said engine oil is engine oil then it was called bike oil etc.. And we should only look for the weight of the oil.
Its ok guy, part of growing up is accepting when you're wrong
You cannot use engine oil in a bike that uses the same oil for both engine and transmission.
There is a reason there is specific "bike" oil. So in that sense it's not the same as engine oil.
Did you grab a snickers yet?
;)

Joshorilla do they show US candy bar tv commercials in the Channel Islands?


Bob2010 did you skip breakfast?

Lol nah im more of coffee in the morning , steak and beers for dinner kind of guy

As a moderator on other forums, one thing that is truly frowned upon is mis- information. People browse looking for information and if they read the wrong posts, they can be in big trouble fast.
Just stick to the facts. I'm sure you could "get away" with other oils but when I read this, I wanted to know the facts. Hence why I joined. The wikis and information here are amazing. I hope to see it continue to provide solid information.
Like i perviouslystated, I personally read all the wikis and threads and posts, considered all my options. It took a lot of background research to confirm that engine oil made by rotella was acceptable because it met the same standards and requirements for our bikes. That isn't to say alll engine oils will act the same as long as the weight is correct.
Soo in that aspect , what's a few dollars to know to that the castrol 4t oil (insert any other bike oil here) I run was designed with our bikes in mind and not just a generic diesel engine oil?
You pay to play. Why cheap out on the one fluid that protects your clutches and engine?

I don't use synthetics till about 5000 miles, the engine is fully broken in by then. My mechanic is a Ninja 250 expert and he told me so. Clutch plates aren't glazed yet till about 5000 miles, as he said.

I don't use synthetics till about 5000 miles, the engine is fully broken in by then. My mechanic is a Ninja 250 expert and he told me so. Clutch plates aren't glazed yet till about 5000 miles, as he said.

First time i heard of that.
I've run synthetics since the 600 mi service.

my brother is an engine builder and the place that he works recons that around 200 - 300 microns in your engine oil means that your engine has "worn in".

rings to engine block are the quickest to "run in".

broken in - first start up to 2hr's, variable rev's to 1/3 throttle, no idle. if something is going to fail it will at this point

worn in - around 500kms/310miles of city/highway driving.

run in - 5000kms/3100miles to allow for individual part tolerances to take up to a point where heating and cooling of the engine hard faces the parts and slows the wearing process