http://www.linkint.com.au/Product/12-413-136GD_item.html

This was the cheapest I could find it

Looks like a 136 link "u-ring" chain made specifically for Japanese racing bicycles :rotflmao: <--- ninja is on same level as a bicycle with a motor ;)

So might be a good chain for anyone running 415 setup on the street. :thumbup:

Nice, thanks for posting, I might try it out.:thumbup:

http://www.linkint.com.au/Product/12-413-136GD_item.html

This was the cheapest I could find it

Looks like a 136 link "u-ring" chain made specifically for Japanese racing bicycles :rotflmao: <--- ninja is on same level as a bicycle with a motor ;)

So might be a good chain for anyone running 415 setup on the street. :thumbup:

That seems as unsafe as unnecessary to me.

Sealed or non-sealed, motorcycle chains are manufactured with higher standards than any other roller chain.
The smallest motorcycle chain is the 420.

i honestly don't know a whole lot about it other than it is very popular on the west coast with racers. I know they get used on smaller 2stroke dirt bikes like ktm80/85 they make probably close to 25hp

The racers tend to use the non 0ring chains because that is all that is available and they have a little less rolling resistance than the o-ring ones. This is the first 0-ring chain of that size i have ever seen so figured i would share. I figure racers as well might be replacing these chains very often. Perhaps one can chime in and give their 2 cents.

.............Perhaps one can chime in and give their 2 cents.

Hope so :)

The lack of seals for racing saves a lot of energy to be wasted due to friction.
The sealing is just to extend the life of the chain.

We were rolling for many years with non-sealed chains; that is not dangerous, .................saving weight in a key transmission part may be, ........... sooner or later. :o

^ not to hijack my own thread but what kind of life span were you seeing out of non sealed chains?

I currently use unsealed chains made for Thai's Honda NSR 150, much much cheaper than the sealed ones, almost 1/3 of the price. I've been using it for 15000 km (9000+ miles). And I ride mine like I stole it.

Unsealed chains, if you spray them with chainlube once every 3 days, should give you almost the same life as sealed ones. High quality ones often surpass sealed chains from the low end price range. And I usually spend a can or 2 of chainlube a month.

I usually spray the chain after arriving at home, to let the lube stick with the chain overnight.

The ninjette engine may not put so much stress to the chain like bigger bikes do, therefore unsealed chain can have longer life with the ninjette.

^ not to hijack my own thread but what kind of life span were you seeing out of non sealed chains?

Lubricated steel can last forever, much longer than O-rings. :)
I had chains that rolled for more than 15K miles before showing any sign of wear and stretching.

I also had several MZ motorcycles, which chains lasted much longer, because those bikes had a full enclosure that isolated the chain from dirt and water.
They had a plastic cage around the rear sprocket and rubber boots protecting the top and bottom runs.
Same extended chain life happened for my 50 cc Puch, which had a metal cage that enclosed the whole chain+sprocket with a little sprocket and lever to regulate the slack.
(Even that baby with its 2 HP had a 420 size motorcycle chain !!!)

http://www.themzshop.co.uk/published/publicdata/ECOMMERCE/attachments/SC/images/Final%20Drive%2092r.gif

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8d/MZ_ETZ_251.jpg

Later on, manufacturers started providing minimum protection for the chains, which shortened the life of these (mainly due to exposure to water), even when having good maintenance; hence, the sealed chains.

The trick was lubricating the non-sealed chains when hot, just after a long trip; in that way the oil got thinner and penetrated well deep into the rollers and between the plaques.

Clip links never jumped out, so we used and used and re-used them every weekend to pull the chain out of the bike and to give it a good bath in kerosene with a plastic or hair brush.

After those baths, they were submerged in heated grease (grease caught fire once in a while while heating it up). :o
Once cold, the excess of grease was removed with a rag.

Between weekends, one or two times of lubrication with medium viscosity oil was enough.

Messy? Yes, there was some mess to be cleaned regularly, especially around the front sprocket.
I never had any catastrophic failure with a non-sealed chain.

For more info on non-sealed chains, check this:
http://www.dansmc.com/rearchain.htm

I would love to run a non o-ring chain but the laziness in me says it's probably not a good idea considering I neglect my current chain as is and wonder how much more in maintenance alone it would cost over the long run?