So if you read my story over in ride reports, I had a fun experience where adjusting my shift lever ended poorly because I didn't pay enough attention to getting my locking nuts down tightly.

I have that all sorted out now, but I'm still a bit unhappy with the placement.

Is there a way I could get the same rod but shorter? I'd really love to move the shifter up higher but it's as a high as possible given the OEM's length.

Why not just move the crank on the shift shaft a spline or two clockwise?

I wanted my shifter lower, so I moved mine one spline counterclockwise.

Why not just move the crank on the shift shaft a spline or two clockwise?

I wanted my shifter lower, so I moved mine one spline counterclockwise.

Mine is as clockwise as it will go and I still want it higher :)

I can live with it where it is, but it isn't quite 100% where I want it.

You could go to a machine shop and have a short rod custom made. It'll take a pro to do it because one end of the rod has left-hand threads. But it shouldn't cost more than one-half to one hour's shop time.

..........I can live with it where it is, but it isn't quite 100% where I want it.

This may help you:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_adjust_the_shifter%3F

This may help you:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_adjust_the_shifter%3F

I might give the part about 'extreme' changes a shot. I'm riding with the moth rearsets and I've put the pegs as high up as possible so I can get my legs on the tank (I'm actually considering taking them to a machinist for an even higher peg hole to be drilled), the downside is that this makes the rear brake and shifter both pretty low relatively speaking.

I see.

Consider that the best resolution and symmetry of the shifts is achieved when the rod is perpendicular to each of both levers.

The same machinist could easily extend the right-thread of the rod and cut it shorter in a lathe or even with hand tools.

I see.

Consider that the best resolution and symmetry of the shifts is achieved when the rod is perpendicular to each of both levers.

The same machinist could easily extend the right-thread of the rod and cut it shorter in a lathe or even with hand tools.

Yeah, with everything where it is right now the shifter is a good inch or inch and a half lower than the foot peg.

Yeah, with everything where it is right now the shifter is a good inch or inch and a half lower than the foot peg.

Ha! That's where I prefer the pedals! I move them down on my bikes. But I'm not raising the pegs. Everyone's unique!

Ha! That's where I prefer the pedals! I move them down on my bikes. But I'm not raising the pegs. Everyone's unique!

Yep, with my tiny feet I basically have to go off of the peg to get my boot in good shifting position -- which is both distracting and reduces my leverage. If I move the shifter position (the 'peg' on the lever itself) inward then downshifting becomes easy but upshifting becomes too tight. Bleeeeeh :P

http://tinyurl.com/kqtaw34

Yeah, with everything where it is right now the shifter is a good inch or inch and a half lower than the foot peg.

Would you mind posting one picture?

A non-ergonomic shifter takes away all the fun of sport riding.
I am very sensitive to the position and smoothness of the shifter-boot-foot relationship. :)

A non-ergonomic shifter takes away all the fun of sport riding.

You got that right. Makes all riding less enjoyable. No good having to hunt around for the controls.

Sure, here ya go :)

From where it is in this picture I can't rotate the bar any further to get the shifter higher :(

Sure, here ya go :)

From where it is in this picture I can't rotate the bar any further to get the shifter higher :(

It seems to me that rotating the clamp clockwise one or a couple of teeth of the spline will allow you to rise the shift lever and shorten the distance peg-lever's actuator; which helps your small foot.

Post #2 explains the same with better wording:

Why not just move the crank on the shift shaft a spline or two clockwise?

I wanted my shifter lower, so I moved mine one spline counterclockwise.

Then more fine adjustment can be done with the connecting bar.

It would look something like this:

/____ /

............ which is still OK.

A more radical option could be to switch to the reverse shift (Moto GP style), using a shift lever clamped directly to the shifter shaft.

if rotating the arm on the output spline isn't feasible because of the geometry of the rearset, you could remove the rod, remove a quarter inch with bolt cutters, then run a die over it to clean up the end, and maybe take the threads in a bit further.